, Scripps Institution of Oceanography La Jolla, CA, USA D. N. Slinn Civil and Coastal Engineering Department, Scripps Institution of Oceanography La Jolla, CA, USA R. T. Guza Integrative Oceanography Division of California, San Diego. La Jolla, CA 92093-0209 (email@example.com) D. N. Slinn, Civil and Coastal
Keen, A. S.; Holman, R. A.
Parametric depth-induced-breaking dissipation models have shown great skill at predicting time averaged wave heights across the surf zone. First proposed by Battjes & Janssen (1978), these models balance the incoming wave energy flux with a roller dissipation term. This roller dissipation term is estimated by calculating the dissipation for one characteristic broken wave and then multiplying this quantity by the fraction of broken waves. To describe the fraction of broken waves, a typical assumption asserts that wave heights are nearly Rayleigh distributed [Thornton & Guza (1983)] allowing a sea state to be described by only a few parameters. While many experiments have validated the cross shore wave height profiles, few field experiments have been performed to analyze the probability distribution of breaking wave heights over a barred beach profile. The goal of the present research is to determine the distribution of broken and unbroken wave heights across a natural barred beach profile. Field data collected during the Surf Zone Optics experiment (a Multi-disciplinary University Research Initiative) in Duck, North Carolina, consisted of an array of in-situ pressure sensors and optical remote sensing cameras. Sea surface elevation time series from the in-situ pressure sensors are used here to resolve wave height distributions at multiple locations across the surf zone. Breaking wave height distributions are resolved based upon a combination of the pressure sensor and optically based breaker detection algorithm. Since breaking is easily able to be tracked by video imaging, breaking waves are flagged in the sea surface elevation series and binned into a broken wave height distribution. Results of this analysis are compared with model predictions based upon the Battjes & Janssen (1978), Thornton & Guza (1983) and Janssen & Battjes (2007) models to assess the validity of each wave height distribution model.
Contardo, Stephanie; Symonds, Graham; Segura, Laura
The occurrence of short period wind-sea associated with a diurnal sea breeze, superimposed on longer period swell in South West Western Australia provides an opportunity to observe the response of infragravity (0.01-0.05 Hz) waves, in the nearshore, to both wind-sea and swell forcing. An alongshore array of pressure sensors and a cross-shore array of current velocity and pressure sensors are deployed at Secret Harbour, a barred beach near Perth. The observations show a stronger infragravity response to longer period incident swell than to short period wind-sea. Infragravity waves at Secret Harbour are generated by two mechanisms: breakpoint forcing and bound wave release. Breakpoint forcing is observed with both swell and wind-sea forcing while bound wave release is only observed in the presence of swell. Two mechanisms generate free infragravity waves during swell periods while only one mechanism is in place during wind-sea periods, providing an explanation for the stronger response to swell than wind-sea. Free infragravity waves propagating offshore after reflection at the shoreline are called leaky waves; those which are trapped to the shoreline by refraction are called edge waves. At Secret Harbour, both edge waves and leaky waves are detected. Leaky waves dominate with swell forcing while edge waves dominate with wind-sea forcing. Amongst edge waves, mode 0 waves are found to dominate in the absence of wind-sea, while higher mode edge waves dominate when wind-sea is present. We calculate the expected wavenumber-frequency distribution of edge wave and leaky wave energy, based on resonance conditions, using wave period, incidence angle and directional spreading, as proposed by Bowen and Guza (1978). Observations and predictions are in good agreement. However the model can be improved by quantifying the infragravity energy generated by both infragravity wave generation mechanisms. Bowen, A. J., and R. T. Guza (1978), Edge waves and surf beat, Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans and Atmospheres, 83(NC4), 1913-1920.
Haines, John W.; Sallenger, Asbury H., Jr.
Mean cross-shore currents observed across a barred surf zone are compared to model predictions. The model is based on a simplified momentum balance with a turbulent boundary layer at the bed. Turbulent exchange is parameterized by an eddy viscosity formulation, with the eddy viscosity A? independent of time and the vertical coordinate. Mean currents result from gradients due to wave breaking and shoaling, and the presence of a mean setup of the free surface. Descriptions of the wave field are provided by the wave transformation model of Thornton and Guza . The wave transformation model adequately reproduces the observed wave heights across the surf zone. The mean current model successfully reproduces the observed cross-shore flows. Both observations and predictions show predominantly offshore flow with onshore flow restricted to a relatively thin surface layer. Successful application of the mean flow model requires an eddy viscosity which varies horizontally across the surf zone. Attempts are made to parameterize this variation with some success. The data does not discriminate between alternative parameterizations proposed. The overall variability in eddy viscosity suggested by the model fitting should be resolvable by field measurements of the turbulent stresses. Consistent shortcomings of the parameterizations, and the overall modeling effort, suggest avenues for further development and data collection.
Ludka, B. C.; Guza, R. T.; McNinch, J. E.; O'Reilly, W.
Beach elevation change observations from the United States west and east coasts are used to identify statistically the dominant cross-shore patterns in sand level fluctuations, and these changes are related to equilibrium beach profile concepts. Three to seven years of observations at four beaches in Southern California include monthly surveys of the subaerial (near MSL) beach, and quarterly surveys from the backbeach to about 8m depth. At Duck, North Carolina, observations include 31 years of monthly surveys from the dunes to about 8m depth. On the Southern California beaches, the dominant seasonal pattern is subaerial erosion in winter and accretion in summer. Seasonal fluctuations of 3m in shoreline vertical sand levels, and 50m in subaerial beach width, are not uncommon. The sand eroded from the shoreline in winter is stored in an offshore sand bar and returns to the beach face in summer. Wave conditions in Southern California also vary seasonally, with energetic waves arriving from the north in winter, and lower energy, longer period southerly swell arriving in summer. A spectral refraction model, initialized with a regional network of directional wave buoys, is used to estimate hourly wave conditions, in 10m water depth. Using an equilibrium hypothesis, that the shoreline (defined as the cross-shore location of the MSL contour) change rate depends on the wave energy and the wave energy disequilibrium, Yates (2009) modeled the time-varying shoreline location at several Southern California beaches with significant skill. The four free model parameters were calibrated to fit observations. Following Yates (2009), we extend the equilibrium shoreline model to include the horizontal displacement of other elevation contours. At the Southern California sites, the modeled contour translation depends on the incident wave energy, the present contour configuration, and observation-based estimates of the contour behavior (based on EOF spatial amplitudes). At Duck, seasonal variations of the wave field (measured immediately offshore) are large, but shoreline changes (usually <30cm) are smaller than in Southern California. Maximum vertical variations occur just seaward of the shoreline and the nearshore bathymetry is often barred. Plant (1999) show that bar crest position at Duck has equilibrium-like behavior. We will present the results of equilibrium shoreline and profile modeling at Duck. At both sites, we diagnose sources (e.g. grain size and incident waves) of the sometimes strong observed alongshore variations in sand level change patterns. Funding was provided by the US Army Corps of Engineers and the California Department of Boating and Waterways. REFERENCES Plant, N. G., R. A. Holman, M. H. Freilich, and W. A. Birkemeier (1999), A simple model for interannual sandbar behavior, J. Geophys. Res., 104(C7), 15,755-15,776. Yates, M. L., R. T. Guza, and W. C. O'Reilly (2009), Equilibrium shoreline response: Observations and modeling, J. Geophys. Res., 114, C09014.