Sample records for piecioletnia remisja guza

  1. Evolution of Random Nonlinear Infragravity Waves in Coastal Waters

    NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

    Tian, M.; Sheremet, A.; Shrira, V. I.

    2014-12-01

    The observed spectra of nearshore infragravity waves are typically mixed, with a discrete component (edge waves, trapped waves, propagating parallel to the coast) and a continuous one (leaky waves, that propagate from, and radiate back into, the deep ocean. See e.g., Oltman-Shay and Guza, 1987). The evolution of infragravity spectrum is driven by three general processes: 1) edge-leaky interactions, that transfer energy to the system from shorter waves; 2) energy redistribution through edge-edge and edge-leaky interactions; 3) and energy dissipation due to processes such as bottom friction. Previous studies treated either the edge and leaky system, in isolation from the other one, and focused on phase-resolving dynamical equation. Following Whitham (1976), who derived the nonlinear edge-wave solutions for the shallow water equations, theoretical work on the nonlinear edge-edge interaction resulted in many significant extensions (e.g., Kirby et. al. 1998, Pelinovsky et. al. 2010). The interaction between standing edge waves and a normally incident wave has been investigated both within the framework of the shallow-water equation (Guza and Davis 1974) and full water wave theory (Minzoni and Whitham, 1977). Here, we derive a general dynamical equation for the full mixed edge-leaky spectrum over a laterally uniform beach based on Zakharov's (1968, 1999) Hamiltonian formalism. The introduction of canonical variables in this formalism significantly simplifies the complicated derivation of the nonlinear interaction coefficient in the previous work (Kirby et. al. 1998, Pelinovsky et. al. 2010). The subharmonic resonance mechanism for edge-wave excitation (Guza and Davis, 1974) is retrieved from the model equation as a special case. The effects of dissipation induced by bottom friction are included using a perturbation approach. A kinetic equation for Zakharov's (1999) canonical variables can be derived, that reduces to the stochastic nonlinear mild-slope model of Agnon and Sheremet (1997) for the leaky spectrum. Ongoing work focuses on the investigation of the dynamical properties of the edge wave spectrum and the development of numerical implementation and validation of the model.

  2. Rogue Edge Waves in the Ocean

    NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

    Polukhina, Oxana; Kurkin, Andrey; Pelinovsky, Efim

    2010-05-01

    The investigation of anomalously large amplitude surface gravity waves on the sea surface (rogue or freak waves), which can appear suddenly and disappear in the same abrupt way, is very extensive in the recent years (see e.g., book [Kharif, Pelinovsky, Slunyaev 2009] and references there). However, any sudden displacements of water level or changes in flow velocities can also appear in the ocean wave motions of other types, including geophysical large-scale fields. The number of observations of such waves is still very small, they are even almost absent, but the investigations of such possible processes seem to be important for the applications. In the present paper the problem of rogue waves is discussed for edge waves in the coastal zone. Such waves belong to the class of topographically trapped waves, which are supposed to play dominant role in the dynamics of oceanic coastal zone. The amplitude of the waves reaches a maximum at the edge, and they are attenuated offshore. Direct visual observations of such waves are difficult, but such waves have been detected instrumentally in the nearshore wave field many times (see e.g. [Huntley and Bowen 1973; Bryan, Hows and Bowen 1998]). Edge waves are often considered as the major factor of the long-term evolution of coastal line, forming the rhythmic crescentic bars [Dolan and Ferm 1968; Bowen and Inman 1971; Guza and Inman 1975; Guza and Bowen 1981; Holman and Bowen 1982; Komar 1998]. In the present paper we summarize the results of the study of the nonlinear mechanisms of possible freak edge wave appearance: nonlinear dispersion enhancement and modulation instability.

  3. Optical Estimation of Depth Induced Wave Breaking Distributions over Complex Bathymetry

    NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

    Keen, A. S.; Holman, R. A.

    2012-12-01

    Parametric depth-induced-breaking dissipation models have shown great skill at predicting time averaged wave heights across the surf zone. First proposed by Battjes & Janssen (1978), these models balance the incoming wave energy flux with a roller dissipation term. This roller dissipation term is estimated by calculating the dissipation for one characteristic broken wave and then multiplying this quantity by the fraction of broken waves. To describe the fraction of broken waves, a typical assumption asserts that wave heights are nearly Rayleigh distributed [Thornton & Guza (1983)] allowing a sea state to be described by only a few parameters. While many experiments have validated the cross shore wave height profiles, few field experiments have been performed to analyze the probability distribution of breaking wave heights over a barred beach profile. The goal of the present research is to determine the distribution of broken and unbroken wave heights across a natural barred beach profile. Field data collected during the Surf Zone Optics experiment (a Multi-disciplinary University Research Initiative) in Duck, North Carolina, consisted of an array of in-situ pressure sensors and optical remote sensing cameras. Sea surface elevation time series from the in-situ pressure sensors are used here to resolve wave height distributions at multiple locations across the surf zone. Breaking wave height distributions are resolved based upon a combination of the pressure sensor and optically based breaker detection algorithm. Since breaking is easily able to be tracked by video imaging, breaking waves are flagged in the sea surface elevation series and binned into a broken wave height distribution. Results of this analysis are compared with model predictions based upon the Battjes & Janssen (1978), Thornton & Guza (1983) and Janssen & Battjes (2007) models to assess the validity of each wave height distribution model.

  4. Edge wave response on a barred beach with wind-sea and swell forcing

    NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

    Contardo, Stephanie; Symonds, Graham; Segura, Laura

    2015-04-01

    The occurrence of short period wind-sea associated with a diurnal sea breeze, superimposed on longer period swell in South West Western Australia provides an opportunity to observe the response of infragravity (0.01-0.05 Hz) waves, in the nearshore, to both wind-sea and swell forcing. An alongshore array of pressure sensors and a cross-shore array of current velocity and pressure sensors are deployed at Secret Harbour, a barred beach near Perth. The observations show a stronger infragravity response to longer period incident swell than to short period wind-sea. Infragravity waves at Secret Harbour are generated by two mechanisms: breakpoint forcing and bound wave release. Breakpoint forcing is observed with both swell and wind-sea forcing while bound wave release is only observed in the presence of swell. Two mechanisms generate free infragravity waves during swell periods while only one mechanism is in place during wind-sea periods, providing an explanation for the stronger response to swell than wind-sea. Free infragravity waves propagating offshore after reflection at the shoreline are called leaky waves; those which are trapped to the shoreline by refraction are called edge waves. At Secret Harbour, both edge waves and leaky waves are detected. Leaky waves dominate with swell forcing while edge waves dominate with wind-sea forcing. Amongst edge waves, mode 0 waves are found to dominate in the absence of wind-sea, while higher mode edge waves dominate when wind-sea is present. We calculate the expected wavenumber-frequency distribution of edge wave and leaky wave energy, based on resonance conditions, using wave period, incidence angle and directional spreading, as proposed by Bowen and Guza (1978). Observations and predictions are in good agreement. However the model can be improved by quantifying the infragravity energy generated by both infragravity wave generation mechanisms. Bowen, A. J., and R. T. Guza (1978), Edge waves and surf beat, Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans and Atmospheres, 83(NC4), 1913-1920.

  5. Vertical structure of mean cross-shore currents across a barred surf zone

    NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

    Haines, John W.; Sallenger, Asbury H.

    1994-07-01

    Mean cross-shore currents observed across a barred surf zone are compared to model predictions. The model is based on a simplified momentum balance with a turbulent boundary layer at the bed. Turbulent exchange is parameterized by an eddy viscosity formulation, with the eddy viscosity A? independent of time and the vertical coordinate. Mean currents result from gradients due to wave breaking and shoaling, and the presence of a mean setup of the free surface. Descriptions of the wave field are provided by the wave transformation model of Thornton and Guza [1983]. The wave transformation model adequately reproduces the observed wave heights across the surf zone. The mean current model successfully reproduces the observed cross-shore flows. Both observations and predictions show predominantly offshore flow with onshore flow restricted to a relatively thin surface layer. Successful application of the mean flow model requires an eddy viscosity which varies horizontally across the surf zone. Attempts are made to parameterize this variation with some success. The data does not discriminate between alternative parameterizations proposed. The overall variability in eddy viscosity suggested by the model fitting should be resolvable by field measurements of the turbulent stresses. Consistent shortcomings of the parameterizations, and the overall modeling effort, suggest avenues for further development and data collection.

  6. Quantum Stochastics and Information Statistics, Filtering and Control

    NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

    Belavkin, V. P.; Gut?, M.

    2008-08-01

    pt. A. Quantum probability and analysis. Approximation via toy Fock space - the vacuum-adapted viewpoint / A. C. R. Belton. Regular solutions of quantum stochastic differential equations / F. Fagnola. From algebraic to analytic double product integrals / R. Hudson. Product systems; a survey with commutants in view / M. Skeide. Clifford algebras, random graphs, and quantum random variables / R. Schott & G. S. Staples. The set of density operators modelled on an Orlicz space / R. F. Streater. Quantum extensions of the classical domination principle / V. Umanitŕ. Analysis in operator spaces / B. Zegarli?ski -- pt. B. Quantum statistics, filtering and control. Quantum filtering and optimal control / V. P. Belavkin & S. Edwards. On the separation principle in quantum control / L. Bouten & R. van Handel. Conciliation of Bayes and pointwise quantum state estimation / R. D. Gill. Optimal quantum feedback for canonical observables / J. Gough. Feedback control of quantum systems / M. James. Local asymptotic normality and optimal estimation for d-dimensional quantum systems / J. Kahn & M. Guza -- pt. C. Quantum measurements and information. Information gain in quantum continual measurements / A. Barchielli & G. Lupieri. Noisy qutrit channel / A. Chici?ska & K. W?dkiewicz. Additivity of entangled channel capacity given quantum input states / V. P. Belavkin & X. Dai. Classical coding and the Cauchy-Schwarz inequality / B. Janssens. Note on information transmission in quantum systems / N. Watanabe.

  7. Vertical structure of mean cross-shore currents across a barred surf zone

    USGS Publications Warehouse

    Haines, John W.; Sallenger, Asbury H., Jr.

    1994-01-01

    Mean cross-shore currents observed across a barred surf zone are compared to model predictions. The model is based on a simplified momentum balance with a turbulent boundary layer at the bed. Turbulent exchange is parameterized by an eddy viscosity formulation, with the eddy viscosity A? independent of time and the vertical coordinate. Mean currents result from gradients due to wave breaking and shoaling, and the presence of a mean setup of the free surface. Descriptions of the wave field are provided by the wave transformation model of Thornton and Guza [1983]. The wave transformation model adequately reproduces the observed wave heights across the surf zone. The mean current model successfully reproduces the observed cross-shore flows. Both observations and predictions show predominantly offshore flow with onshore flow restricted to a relatively thin surface layer. Successful application of the mean flow model requires an eddy viscosity which varies horizontally across the surf zone. Attempts are made to parameterize this variation with some success. The data does not discriminate between alternative parameterizations proposed. The overall variability in eddy viscosity suggested by the model fitting should be resolvable by field measurements of the turbulent stresses. Consistent shortcomings of the parameterizations, and the overall modeling effort, suggest avenues for further development and data collection.

  8. Parametric Wave Transformation Models on Natural Beaches

    NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

    Apotsos, A. A.; Raubenheimer, B.; Elgar, S.; Guza, R. T.

    2006-12-01

    Seven parametric models for wave height transformation across the surf zone [e.g., Thornton and Guza, 1983] are tested with observations collected between the shoreline and about 5-m water depth during 2 experiments on a barred beach near Duck, NC, and between the shoreline and about 3.5-m water depth during 2 experiments on unbarred beaches near La Jolla, CA. Offshore wave heights ranged from about 0.1 to 3.0 m. Beach profiles were surveyed approximately every other day. The models predict the observations well. Root-mean-square errors between observed and simulated wave heights are small in water depths h > 2 m (average rms errors < 10%), and increase with decreasing depth for h < 2 m (average rms errors > 20%). The lowest rms errors (i.e., the most accurate predictions) are achieved by tuning a free parameter, ?, in each model. To tune the models accurately to the data considered here, observations are required at 3 to 5 locations, and must span the surf zone. No tuned or untuned model provides the best predictions for all data records in any one experiment. The best fit ?'s for each model-experiment pair are represented well with an empirical hyperbolic tangent curve based on the inverse Iribarren number. In 3 of the 4 data sets, estimating ? for each model using an average curve based on the predictions and observations from all 4 experiments typically improves model-data agreement relative to using a constant or previously determined empirical ?. The best fit ?'s at the 4th experiment (conducted off La Jolla, CA) are roughly 20% smaller than the ?'s for the other 3 experiments, and thus using the experiment-averaged curve increases prediction errors. Possible causes for the smaller ?'s at the 4th experiment will be discussed. Funded by ONR and NSF.

  9. On the long waves disturbing ship operations in Ferrol (Spain)

    NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

    Lopez, Mario; Iglesias, Gregorio

    2013-04-01

    Long waves may cause significant disturbances for port operations. This paper is concerned with the long wave problems at Ferrol, a port in NW Spain. Long wave periods range between a few tens of seconds to several hours. In shallow water their wavelengths are on the order of hundreds of meters to kilometres. As a result, these waves can match the natural periods of oscillation of semi-enclosed bodies of water like gulfs, bays, fiords, or harbours, resulting in resonant oscillations. During resonance, the vertical displacement of the free surface increases until the energy input is balanced by losses due to friction, flow separation, boundary absorption, and radiation from the mouth (Okihiro et al., 1993). The induced horizontal displacements of the water mass are responsible for the large movements on ships. The non-linear interaction of long and wind waves and the direct atmospheric forcing are the main sources of long waves in the ocean. In the first case, the long waves are also known as infragravity waves and tend to have relatively small periods. In the second case, the atmospheric forced long waves, different mechanisms have been used to explain their generation. Atmospheric disturbances passing over the continental shelf (Sepic et al., 2008) or wind convection cells (de Jong and Battjes, 2004) are two of the causes for these 'meteorological' waves. Whatever their cause, they tend to have relatively large periods and, therefore, a significant potential to excite the first modes of oscillation of harbours. In addition, other different forcing mechanisms can generate long waves, including submerged landslides (Cecioni and Bellotti, 2010) and seisms (Candella et al., 2008). Disturbances to load and unload operations have been reported from 2005 at the Exterior Port of Ferrol (NW Spain). On-site measurements of sea-level oscillations revealed energy peaks possibly related to resonant processes (López et al., 2012; López and Iglesias, 2013). This work is focused on the long waves at the Port of Ferrol and their implications for the operations at the port. References Candella, R.N., Rabinovich, A.B., Thomson, R.E., 2008. The 2004 Sumatra tsunami as recorded on the Atlantic coast of South America. Adv. Geosci. 14, 117-128. Cecioni, C., Bellotti, G., 2010. Modeling tsunamis generated by submerged landslides using depth integrated equations. Appl. Ocean Res. 32(3), 343-350. de Jong, M.P.C., Battjes, J.A., 2004. Low-frequency sea waves generated by atmospheric convection cells. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans 109(C1), C01011. López, M., Iglesias, G., 2013. Artificial Intelligence for estimating infragravity energy in a harbour. Ocean Eng. 57(0), 56-63. López, M., Iglesias, G., Kobayashi, N., 2012. Long period oscillations and tidal level in the Port of Ferrol. Appl. Ocean Res. 38(0), 126-134. Okihiro, M., Guza, R.T., Seymour, R.J., 1993. Excitation of Seiche Observed in a Small Harbor. J. Geophys. Res. 98(C10), 18201-18211. Sepic, J., Orlic, M., Vilibic, I., 2008. The Bakar Bay seiches and their relationship with atmospheric processes. Acta Adriat. 49(2).