Generation and Propagation of Nonlinear Internal Waves in Sheared Currents Over the Washington Continental Shelf

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hamann, Madeleine M.; Alford, Matthew H.; Mickett, John B.

2018-04-01

The generation, propagation, and dissipation of nonlinear internal waves (NLIW) in sheared background currents is examined using 7 days of shipboard microstructure surveys and two moorings on the continental shelf offshore of Washington state. Surveys near the hypothesized generation region show semi-diurnal (D2) energy flux is onshore and that the ratio of energy flux to group speed times energy (F/cgE) increases sharply at the shelf break, suggesting that the incident D2 internal tide is partially reflected and partially transmitted. NLIW appear at an inshore mooring at the leading edge of the onshore phase of the baroclinic tide, consistent with nonlinear transformation of the shoaling internal tide as their generation mechanism. Of the D2 energy flux observed at the eastern extent of the generation region (133 ± 18 Wm-1), approximately 30% goes into the NLIW observed inshore (36 ± 11 Wm-1). Inshore of the moorings, 7 waves are tracked into shallow (30-40 m) water, where a vertically sheared, southward current becomes strong. As train-like waves propagate onshore, wave amplitudes of 25-30 m and energies of 5 MJ decrease to 12 m and 10 kJ, respectively. The observed direction of propagation rotates from 30° N of E to ˜30° S of E in the strongly sheared region. Linear ray tracing using the Taylor-Goldstein equation to incorporate parallel shear effects accounts for only a small portion of the observed rotation, suggesting that three-dimensionality of the wave crests and the background currents is important here.

Wave-induced Maintenance of Suspended Sediment Concentration during Slack in a Tidal Channel on a Sheltered Macro-tidal Flat, Gangwha Island, Korea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lee, Guan-hong; Kang, KiRyong

2018-05-01

A field campaign was conducted to better understand the influence of wave action, in terms of turbulence and bed shear stress, on sediment resuspension and transport processes on a protected tidal flat. An H-frame was deployed in a tidal channel south of Gangwha Island for 6 tidal cycles during November 2006 with instrumentation including an Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter, an Acoustic Backscatter System, and an Optical Backscatter Sensor. During calm conditions, the current-induced shear was dominant and responsible for suspending sediments during the accelerating phases of flood and ebb. During the high-tide slack, both bed shear stress and suspended sediment concentration were reduced. The sediment flux was directed landward due to the scour-lag effect over a tidal cycle. On the other hand, when waves were stronger, the wave-induced turbulence appeared to keep sediments in suspension even during the high-tide slack, while the current-induced shear remained dominant during the accelerating phases of flood and ebb. The sediment flux under strong waves was directed offshore due to the sustained high suspended sediment concentration during the high-tide slack. Although strong waves can induce offshore sediment flux, infrequent events with strong waves are unlikely to alter the long-term accretion of the protected southern Gangwha tidal flats.

Variability of the internal tide on the southern Monterey Bay continental shelf and associated bottom boundary layer sediment transport

USGS Publications Warehouse

Rosenberger, Kurt; Storlazzi, Curt; Cheriton, Olivia

2016-01-01

A 6-month deployment of instrumentation from April to October 2012 in 90 m water depth near the outer edge of the mid-shelf mud belt in southern Monterey Bay, California, reveals the importance regional upwelling on water column density structure, potentially accounting for the majority of the variability in internal tidal energy flux across the shelf. Observations consisted of time-series measurements of water-column currents, temperature and salinity, and near-bed currents and suspended matter. The internal tide accounted for 15–25% of the water-column current variance and the barotropic tide accounted for up to 35%. The subtidal flow showed remarkably little shear and was dominated by the 7–14 day band, which is associated with relaxations in the dominant equatorward winds typical of coastal California in the spring and summer. Upwelling and relaxation events resulted in strong near-bed flows and accounted for almost half of the current stress on the seafloor (not accounting for wave orbital velocities), and may have driven along-shelf geostrophic flow during steady state conditions. Several elevated suspended particulate matter (SPM) events occurred within 3 m of the bed and were generally associated with higher, long-period surface waves. However, these peaks in SPM did not coincide with the predicted resuspension events from the modeled combined wave–current shear stress, indicating that the observed SPM at our site was most likely resuspended elsewhere and advected along-isobath. Sediment flux was almost equal in magnitude in the alongshore and cross-shore directions. Instances of wave–current shear stress that exceeded the threshold of resuspension for the silty-clays common at these water depths only occurred when near-bed orbital velocities due to long-period surface waves coincided with vigorous near-bed currents associated with the internal tide or upwelling/relaxation events. Thus upwelling/relaxation dynamics are primarily responsible for variability in the internal tide, as well as transport of near-bottom sediment in the mid-self mud belt during the relatively quiescent summer months.

Mesospheric Non-Migrating Tides Generated With Planetary Waves. 1; Characteristics

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Mayr, H. G.; Mengel, J. G.; Talaat, E. L.; Porter, H. S.; Chan, K. L.

2003-01-01

We discuss results from a modeling study with our Numerical Spectral Model (NSM) that specifically deals with the non-migrating tides generated in the mesosphere. The NSM extends from the ground to the thermosphere, incorporates Hines' Doppler Spread Parameterization for small-scale gravity waves (GWs), and it describes the major dynamical features of the atmosphere including the wave driven equatorial oscillations (QBO and SAO), and the seasonal variations of tides and planetary waves. Accounting solely for the excitation sources of the solar migrating tides, the NSM generates through dynamical interactions also non-migrating tides in the mesosphere that are comparable in magnitude to those observed. Large non-migrating tides are produced in the diurnal and semi-diurnal oscillations for the zonal mean (m = 0) and in the semidiurnal oscillation for m = 1. In general, significant eastward and westward propagating tides are generated for all the zonal wave numbers m = 1 to 4. To identify the cause, the NSM is run without the solar heating for the zonal mean (m = 0), and the amplitudes of the resulting non-migrating tides are then negligibly small. In this case, the planetary waves are artificially suppressed, which are generated in the NSM through instabilities. This leads to the conclusion that the non-migrating tides are generated through non-linear interactions between planetary waves and migrating tides, as Forbes et al. and Talaat and Liberman had proposed. In an accompanying paper, we present results from numerical experiments, which indicate that gravity wave filtering contributes significantly to produce the non-linear coupling that is involved.

Towards improved prediction and mitigation of beach overwash: Terrestrial LiDAR observation of dynamic beach berm erosion

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Schubert, J. E.; Gallien, T.; Shakeri Majd, M.; Sanders, B. F.

2012-12-01

Globally, over 20 million people currently reside below high tide levels and 200 million are below storm tide levels. Future climate change along with the pressures of urbanization will exacerbate flooding in low lying coastal communities. In Southern California, coastal flooding is triggered by a combination of high tides, storm surge, and waves and recent research suggests that a current 100 year flood event may be experienced on a yearly basis by 2050 due to sea level rise adding a positive offset to return levels. Currently, Southern California coastal communities mitigate the threat of beach overwash, and consequent backshore flooding, with a combination of planning and operational activities such as protective beach berm construction. Theses berms consist of temporary alongshore sand dunes constructed days or hours before an extreme tide or wave event. Hydraulic modeling in urbanized embayments has shown that coastal flooding predictions are extremely sensitive to the presence of coastal protective infrastructure, requiring parameterization of the hard infrastructure elevations at centimetric accuracy. Beach berms are an example of temporary dynamic structures which undergo severe erosion during extreme events and are typically not included in flood risk assessment. Currently, little is known about the erosion process and performance of these structures, which adds uncertainty to flood hazard delineation and flood forecasts. To develop a deeper understanding of beach berm erosion dynamics, three trapezoidal shaped berms, approximately 35 m long and 1.5 m high, were constructed and failure during rising tide conditions was observed using terrestrial laser scanning. Concurrently, real-time kinematic GPS, high-definition time lapse photography, a local tide gauge and wave climate data were collected. The result is a rich and unique observational dataset capturing berm erosion dynamics. This poster highlights the data collected and presents methods for processing and leveraging multi-sensor field observation data. The data obtained from this study will be used to support the development and validation of a numerical beach berm overtopping and overwash model that will allow for improved predictions of coastal flood damage during winter storms and large swells.

Using an Altimeter-Derived Internal Tide Model to Remove Tides from in Situ Data

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Zaron, Edward D.; Ray, Richard D.

2017-01-01

Internal waves at tidal frequencies, i.e., the internal tides, are a prominent source of variability in the ocean associated with significant vertical isopycnal displacements and currents. Because the isopycnal displacements are caused by ageostrophic dynamics, they contribute uncertainty to geostrophic transport inferred from vertical profiles in the ocean. Here it is demonstrated that a newly developed model of the main semidiurnal (M2) internal tide derived from satellite altimetry may be used to partially remove the tide from vertical profile data, as measured by the reduction of steric height variance inferred from the profiles. It is further demonstrated that the internal tide model can account for a component of the near-surface velocity as measured by drogued drifters. These comparisons represent a validation of the internal tide model using independent data and highlight its potential use in removing internal tide signals from in situ observations.

Numerical Simulation of Internal Waves in the Andaman Sea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Mohanty, Sachiko; Devendra Rao, Ambarukhana

2017-04-01

The interactions of barotropic tides with irregular bottom topography generate internal waves with high amplitude known as large-amplitude internal waves (LAIW) in the Andaman Sea. These waves are an important phenomena in the ocean due to their influence on the density structure and energy transfer into the region. These waves are also important in submarine acoustics, underwater navigation, offshore structures, ocean mixing, biogeochemical processes, etc. over the shelf-slope region. In the present study, energetics analysis of M2 internal tides over the Andaman Sea is carried out in detail by using a three-dimensional MIT general circulation ocean model (MITgcm). In-situ observations of temperature, conductivity and currents with high temporal resolution are used to validate the model simulations. From the spectral energy estimate of density, it is found that the peak estimate is associated with the semi-diurnal frequency at all the depths in both observations and model simulations. The baroclinic velocity characteristics, suggests that a multi-mode features of baroclinic tides are present at the buoy location. To understand the generation and propagation of internal tides over this region, energy flux and barotropic-to-baroclinic M2 tidal energy conversion rates are examined. The model simulation suggests that the internal tide is generated at multiple sites and propagate off of their respective generation sources. Most of the energy propagation in the Andaman Sea follows the 1000m isobath. The maximum horizontal kinetic energy follows the energy flux pattern over the domain and the available potential energy is found to be maximum in the north of the Andaman Sea.

Remote Sensing Characterization of Two-dimensional Wave Forcing in the Surf Zone

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Carini, R. J.; Chickadel, C. C.; Jessup, A. T.

2016-02-01

In the surf zone, breaking waves drive longshore currents, transport sediment, shape bathymetry, and enhance air-sea gas and particle exchange. Furthermore, wave group forcing influences the generation and duration of rip currents. Wave breaking exhibits large gradients in space and time, making it challenging to measure in situ. Remote sensing technologies, specifically thermal infrared (IR) imagery, can provide detailed spatial and temporal measurements of wave breaking at the water surface. We construct two-dimensional maps of active wave breaking from IR imagery collected during the Surf Zone Optics Experiment in September 2010 at the US Army Corps of Engineers' Field Research Facility in Duck, NC. For each breaker identified in the camera's field of view, the crest-perpendicular length of the aerated breaking region (roller length) and wave direction are estimated and used to compute the wave energy dissipation rate. The resultant dissipation rate maps are analyzed over different time scales: peak wave period, infragravity wave period, and tidal wave period. For each time scale, spatial maps of wave breaking are used to characterize wave forcing in the surf zone for a variety of wave conditions. The following phenomena are examined: (1) wave dissipation rates over the bar (location of most intense breaking) have increased variance in infragravity wave frequencies, which are different from the peak frequency of the incoming wave field and different from the wave forcing variability at the shoreline, and (2) wave forcing has a wider spatial distribution during low tide than during high tide due to depth-limited breaking over the barred bathymetry. Future work will investigate the response of the variability in wave setup, longshore currents and rip currents, to the variability in wave forcing in the surf zone.

Non-Migrating Diurnal Tides Generated with Planetary Waves in the Mesosphere

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Mayr, H. G.; Mengel, J. G.; Talaat, E. R.; Porter, H. S.; Chan, K. L.

2003-01-01

We report here the results from a modeling study with our Numerical Spectral Model (NSM) that extends from the ground into thermosphere. The NSM incorporates Hines Doppler Spread Parameterization for small-scale gravity waves (GWs) and describes the major dynamical features of the atmosphere, including the wave driven equatorial oscillations (QBO and SAO), and the seasonal variations of tides and planetary waves. Accounting solely for the solar migrating tidal excitation sources, the NSM generates through dynamical interactions also non-migrating tides in the mesosphere that have amplitudes comparable to those observed. The model produces the diurnal (and semidiurnal) oscillations of the zonal mean (m = 0), and eastward and westward propagating tides for zonal wave numbers m = 1 to 4. To identify the mechanism of excitation for these tides, a numerical experiment is performed. The NSM is run without the heat source for the zonal-mean circulation and temperature variation, and the amplitudes of the resulting nonmigrating tides are then negligibly small. This leads to the conclusion that the planetary waves, which normally are excited in the NSM by instabilities but are suppressed in this case, generate the nonmigrating tides through nonlinear interactions with the migrating tides.

Partly standing internal tides in a dendritic submarine canyon observed by an ocean glider

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hall, Rob A.; Aslam, Tahmeena; Huvenne, Veerle A. I.

2017-08-01

An autonomous ocean glider is used to make the first direct measurements of internal tides within Whittard Canyon, a large, dendritic submarine canyon system that incises the Celtic Sea continental slope and a site of high benthic biodiversity. This is the first time a glider has been used for targeted observations of internal tides in a submarine canyon. Vertical isopycnal displacement observations at different stations fit a one-dimensional model of partly standing semidiurnal internal tides - comprised of a major, incident wave propagating up the canyon limbs and a minor wave reflected back down-canyon by steep, supercritical bathymetry near the canyon heads. The up-canyon internal tide energy flux in the primary study limb decreases from 9.2 to 2.0 kW m-1 over 28 km (a dissipation rate of 1 - 2.5 ×10-7 Wkg-1), comparable to elevated energy fluxes and internal tide driven mixing measured in other canyon systems. Within Whittard Canyon, enhanced mixing is inferred from collapsed temperature-salinity curves and weakened dissolved oxygen concentration gradients near the canyon heads. It has previously been hypothesised that internal tides impact benthic fauna through elevated near-bottom current velocities and particle resuspension. In support of this, we infer order 20 cm s-1 near-bottom current velocities in the canyon and observe high concentrations of suspended particulate matter. The glider observations are also used to estimate a 1 °C temperature range and 12 μmol kg-1 dissolved oxygen concentration range, experienced twice a day by organisms on the canyon walls, due to the presence of internal tides. This study highlights how a well-designed glider mission, incorporating a series of tide-resolving stations at key locations, can be used to understand internal tide dynamics in a region of complex topography, a sampling strategy that is applicable to continental shelves and slopes worldwide.

Laboratory experiment on the 3D tide-induced Lagrangian residual current using the PIV technique

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Chen, Yang; Jiang, Wensheng; Chen, Xu; Wang, Tao; Bian, Changwei

2017-12-01

The 3D structure of the tide-induced Lagrangian residual current was studied using the particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique in a long shallow narrow tank in the laboratory. At the mouth of the tank, a wave generator was used to make periodic wave which represents the tide movement, and at the head of the tank, a laterally sloping topography with the length of one fifth of the water tank was installed, above which the tide-induced Lagrangian residual current was studied. Under the weakly nonlinear condition in the present experiment setup, the results show that the Lagrangian residual velocity (LRV) field has a three-layer structure. The residual current flows inwards (towards the head) in the bottom layer and flows outwards in the middle layer, while in the surface layer, it flows inwards along the shallow side of the sloping topography and outwards along the deep side. The depth-averaged and breadth-averaged LRV are also analyzed based on the 3D LRV observations. Our results are in good agreement with the previous experiment studies, the analytical solutions with similar conditions and the observational results in real bays. Moreover, the volume flux comparison between the Lagrangian and Eulerian residual currents shows that the Eulerian residual velocity violates the mass conservation law while the LRV truly represents the inter-tidal water transport. This work enriches the laboratory studies of the LRV and offers valuable references for the LRV studies in real bays.

Cases Study of Nonlinear Interaction Between Near-Inertial Waves Induced by Typhoon and Diurnal Tides Near the Xisha Islands

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Liu, Junliang; He, Yinghui; Li, Juan; Cai, Shuqun; Wang, Dongxiao; Huang, Yandan

2018-04-01

Nonlinear interaction between near-inertial waves (NIWs) and diurnal tides (DTs) after nine typhoons near the Xisha Islands of the northwestern South China Sea (SCS) were investigated using three-year in situ mooring observation data. It was found that a harmonic wave (f + D1, hereafter referred to as fD1 wave), with a frequency equal to the sum of frequencies of NIWs and DTs (hereafter referred to as f and D1, respectively), was generated via nonlinear interaction between typhoon-induced NIWs and DTs after each typhoon. The fD1 wave mainly concentrates in the subsurface layer, and is mainly induced by the first component of the vertical nonlinear momentum term, the product of the vertical velocity of DT and vertical shear of near-inertial current (hereafter referred to as Component 1), in which the vertical shear of the near-inertial current greatly affects the strength of the fD1 current. The larger the Component 1, the stronger the fD1 currents. The background preexisting mesoscale anticyclonic eddy near the mooring site may also enhance the vertical velocity of DT and thus Component 1, which subsequently facilitates the nonlinear interaction-induced energy transfer to the fD1 wave and enhances the fD1 currents after the passage of a typhoon.

Weak wind-wave/tide interaction over fixed and moveable bottoms: a formulation and some preliminary results

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kagan, B. A.; Alvarez, O.; Izquierdo, A.

2005-05-01

The formulation of weak wind-wave/low-frequency current interaction is discussed comprehensively as applied to fixed- and moveable-bottom cases. It involves (1) a dependence of the drag coefficient on the ratio between wave and current bottom friction velocity amplitudes, (2) the resistance law for the oscillatory, rough, turbulent bottom boundary layer (BBL) which accounts for the usually neglected effects of rotation and the phase difference between the bottom stress and the friction-free current velocity, (3) the expression for the BBL depth in terms of the bottom Rossby number and (4) the bottom roughness predictor of Grant and Madsen (J. Geophys. Res., 87 (1982) 469) in the version of Tolman (J. Phys. Oceanogr., 24 (1994) 994). The formulation is implemented in the UCA (University of Cadiz) 2D nonlinear, high-resolution, hydrodynamic model and used to study the influence of wind-wave/tide interaction, bottom mobility and the improved flow-resistance description on the M 2 tidal dynamics of Cadiz Bay. The inclusion of either of the first two factors can cause the drag coefficient to increase significantly over its reference value. If the third factor is included, changes in the drag coefficient are quite moderate. This is because the effect of rotation is opposite in sign to the effect of phase difference, so that these effects taken together very nearly balance. The reason why bottom mobility has such an important influence on shallow-water tidal dynamics as wind-wave/tide interaction has, is the occurrence of the large irregular variations in the drag coefficient that accompany sediment motion.

How Do Tides and Tsunamis Interact in a Highly Energetic Channel? The Case of Canal Chacao, Chile

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Winckler, Patricio; Sepúlveda, Ignacio; Aron, Felipe; Contreras-López, Manuel

2017-12-01

This study aims at understanding the role of tidal level, speed, and direction in tsunami propagation in highly energetic tidal channels. The main goal is to comprehend whether tide-tsunami interactions enhance/reduce elevation, currents speeds, and arrival times, when compared to pure tsunami models and to simulations in which tides and tsunamis are linearly superimposed. We designed various numerical experiments to compute the tsunami propagation along Canal Chacao, a highly energetic channel in the Chilean Patagonia lying on a subduction margin prone to megathrust earthquakes. Three modeling approaches were implemented under the same seismic scenario: a tsunami model with a constant tide level, a series of six composite models in which independent tide and tsunami simulations are linearly superimposed, and a series of six tide-tsunami nonlinear interaction models (full models). We found that hydrodynamic patterns differ significantly among approaches, being the composite and full models sensitive to both the tidal phase at which the tsunami is triggered and the local depth of the channel. When compared to full models, composite models adequately predicted the maximum surface elevation, but largely overestimated currents. The amplitude and arrival time of the tsunami-leading wave computed with the full model was found to be strongly dependent on the direction of the tidal current and less responsive to the tide level and the tidal current speed. These outcomes emphasize the importance of addressing more carefully the interactions of tides and tsunamis on hazard assessment studies.

The Role of Gravity Waves in Modulating Atmospheric Tides

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Mayr, H. G.; Mengel, J. G; Chan, K. L.; Porter, H. S.

1999-01-01

We discuss results for the diurnal and semidiurnal tides obtained from our 3-D, time dependent numerical spectral model (NMS), extending from the ground up into the thermosphere, which incorporates Hines' Doppler spread parameterization of small scale gravity waves (GW). In the DSP, GW momentum (and energy) are conserved as the waves modulate the background flow and are filtered by the flow.As a consequence, the GW interaction tightly couples the dynamic components of the middle atmosphere with strong non-linear interactions between mean zonal circulation, tides and planetary waves to produce complicated patterns of variability much like those observed. The major conclusions are: (1) Since GW momentum is deposited in the altitude regime of increasing winds, the amplitude of the diurnal tide is amplified and its vertical wavelength is reduced at altitudes between 80 and 120 km. Wave filtering by the mean zonal circulation (with peak velocities during solstice) causes the GW flux to peak during equinox, and this produces a large semi-annual variation in the tide that has been observed on UARS. (2) Without the diurnal tide, the semidiurnal tide would also be modulated in this way. But the diurnal tide filters out the GW preferentially during equinox, so that the semidiurnal tide, at higher altitudes, tends to peak during solstice. (3) Under the influence of GW, the tides are modulated also significantly by planetary waves, with periods between 2 and 30 days, which are generated preferentially during solstice in part due to baroclinic instability.

Diurnal tides in the Arctic Ocean

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Kowalik, Z.; Proshutinsky, A. Y.

1993-01-01

A 2D numerical model with a space grid of about 14 km is applied to calculate diurnal tidal constituents K(1) and O(1) in the Arctic Ocean. Calculated corange and cotidal charts show that along the continental slope, local regions of increased sea level amplitude, highly variable phase and enhanced currents occur. It is shown that in these local regions, shelf waves (topographic waves) of tidal origin are generated. In the Arctic Ocean and Northern Atlantic Ocean more than 30 regions of enhanced currents are identified. To prove the near-resonant interaction of the diurnal tides with the local bottom topography, the natural periods of oscillations for all regions have been calculated. The flux of energy averaged over the tidal period depicts the gyres of semitrapped energy, suggesting that the shelf waves are partially trapped over the irregularities of the bottom topography. It is shown that the occurrence of near-resonance phenomenon changes the energy flow in the tidal waves. First, the flux of energy from the astronomical sources is amplified in the shelf wave regions, and afterwards the tidal energy is strongly dissipated in the same regions.

A comparative study of the mechanisms of migrating diurnal tidal variability due to interaction with propagating planetary waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Chang, Loren; Palo, Scott; Liu, Hanli

The migrating diurnal tide is one of the dominant dynamical features of the Earth's Mesosphere and Lower Thermosphere (MLT) region, particularly at low latitudes. As an actively forced disturbance with a period of 24 hours and westward zonal wave number 1, the migrating diurnal tide represents the atmospheric response to the largest component of solar forcing, propagating upwards from excitation regions in the lower atmosphere. While the seasonal evolution of the migrating diurnal tide has been well explored, ground-based observations of the tide have exhibited a modulation of tidal amplitudes at periods related to those of propagating planetary waves generally present in the region, as well as a decrease in tidal amplitudes during large planetary wave events. Past studies have attributed tidal amplitude modulation to the presence of child waves generated as a byproduct of nonlinear wave-tide interactions. The resulting child waves have frequencies and wavenumbers that are the sum and difference of those of the parent waves. Many questions still remain about the nature and physical drivers responsible for such interactions. The conditions under which various planetary waves may or may not interact with the atmospheric tides, the overall effect on the tidal response, as well as the physical mechanisms coupling the planetary wave and the tide interaction, which has not clearly been determined. These questions are addressed in a recent modeling study, by examining two general categories of planetary waves that are known to attain significant amplitudes in the low latitude and equa-torial region where the migrating diurnal tide is dominant. These are the eastward propagating class of ultra fast Kelvin (UFK) waves with periods near three days which attain their largest amplitudes in the temperature and zonal wind fields of the equatorial lower thermosphere. The second wave examined is the quasi-two day wave (QTDW) which is a westward propagating Rossby wave and can amplify raplidly due to a nonlinear interaction with the mean flow and attain large amplitudes in both components of the wind field and the temperature field in the summer hemisphere over a period of a few days during post-solstice periods. The NCAR Thermosphere Ionosphere Mesosphere Electrodynamics General Circulation Model (TIME-GCM) and Whole Atmosphere Community Climate Model (WACCM) are both state of the art general circulation models and are utilized to simulate the aforementioned planetary waves. The goal of this study is to identify specific changes in the structure of the migrat-ing diurnal tide due to interaction with these planetary waves and to understand the driving processes. The physical mechanisms that serve to couple the tide and the planetary waves are identified through analysis of the tidal momentum tendencies, the background atmosphere, as well as changes in tidal propagation. Results showing the impact of these planetary waves on the structure and evolution of the migrating diurnal tide will be presented.

Modélisation morphodynamique cross-shore d'un estran vaseux

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Waeles, Benoı̂t; Le Hir, Pierre; Silva Jacinto, Ricardo

2004-08-01

Numerical experiments were performed to simulate the profile evolution of an intertidal mudflat with a 1D cross-shore morphodynamical model. First, the hydrodynamical forcing is a cross-shore tidal current due to semi-diurnal variations of the free surface elevation at the open boundary. Further, considering the conservation of the action density of surface gravity waves, a wave height (and resulting bottom shear stress) calculation is added to the morphodynamical model. Results of the numerical experiments show that the shape of the profile reaches equilibrium. The mudflat progrades continually when the forcing is tide only, whereas it can be steady under the simultaneous action of tide and waves. To cite this article: B. Waeles et al., C. R. Geoscience 336 (2004).

Tsunami hazard assessment in the Hudson River Estuary based on dynamic tsunami-tide simulations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Shelby, Michael; Grilli, Stéphan T.; Grilli, Annette R.

2016-12-01

This work is part of a tsunami inundation mapping activity carried out along the US East Coast since 2010, under the auspice of the National Tsunami Hazard Mitigation program (NTHMP). The US East Coast features two main estuaries with significant tidal forcing, which are bordered by numerous critical facilities (power plants, major harbors,...) as well as densely built low-level areas: Chesapeake Bay and the Hudson River Estuary (HRE). HRE is the object of this work, with specific focus on assessing tsunami hazard in Manhattan, the Hudson and East River areas. In the NTHMP work, inundation maps are computed as envelopes of maximum surface elevation along the coast and inland, by simulating the impact of selected probable maximum tsunamis (PMT) in the Atlantic ocean margin and basin. At present, such simulations assume a static reference level near shore equal to the local mean high water (MHW) level. Here, instead we simulate maximum inundation in the HRE resulting from dynamic interactions between the incident PMTs and a tide, which is calibrated to achieve MHW at its maximum level. To identify conditions leading to maximum tsunami inundation, each PMT is simulated for four different phases of the tide and results are compared to those obtained for a static reference level. We first separately simulate the tide and the three PMTs that were found to be most significant for the HRE. These are caused by: (1) a flank collapse of the Cumbre Vieja Volcano (CVV) in the Canary Islands (with a 80 km3 volume representing the most likely extreme scenario); (2) an M9 coseismic source in the Puerto Rico Trench (PRT); and (3) a large submarine mass failure (SMF) in the Hudson River canyon of parameters similar to the 165 km3 historical Currituck slide, which is used as a local proxy for the maximum possible SMF. Simulations are performed with the nonlinear and dispersive long wave model FUNWAVE-TVD, in a series of nested grids of increasing resolution towards the coast, by one-way coupling. Four levels of nested grids are used, from a 1 arc-min spherical coordinate grid in the deep ocean down to a 39-m Cartesian grid in the HRE. Bottom friction coefficients in the finer grids are calibrated for the tide to achieve the local spatially averaged MHW level at high tide in the HRE. Combined tsunami-tide simulations are then performed for four phases of the tide corresponding to each tsunami arriving at Sandy Hook (NJ): 1.5 h ahead, concurrent with, 1.5 h after, and 3 h after the local high tide. These simulations are forced along the offshore boundary of the third-level grid by linearly superposing time series of surface elevation and horizontal currents of the calibrated tide and each tsunami wave train; this is done in deep enough water for a linear superposition to be accurate. Combined tsunami-tide simulations are then performed with FUNWAVE-TVD in this and the finest nested grids. Results show that, for the 3 PMTs, depending on the tide phase, the dynamic simulations lead to no or to a slightly increased inundation in the HRE (by up to 0.15 m depending on location), and to larger currents than for the simulations over a static level; the CRT SMF proxy tsunami is the PMT leading to maximum inundation in the HRE. For all tide phases, nonlinear interactions between tide and tsunami currents modify the elevation, current, and celerity of tsunami wave trains, mostly in the shallower water areas of the HRE where bottom friction dominates, as compared to a linear superposition of wave elevations and currents. We note that, while dynamic simulations predict a slight increase in inundation, this increase may be on the same order as, or even less than sources of uncertainty in the modeling of tsunami sources, such as their initial water elevation, and in bottom friction and bathymetry used in tsunami grids. Nevertheless, results in this paper provide insight into the magnitude and spatial variability of tsunami propagation and impact in the complex inland waterways surrounding New York City, and of their modification by dynamic tidal effects. We conclude that changes in inundation resulting from the inclusion of a dynamic tide in the specific case of the HRE, although of scientific interest, are not significant for tsunami hazard assessment and that the standard approach of specifying a static reference level equal to MHW is conservative. However, in other estuaries with similarly complex bathymetry/topography and stronger tidal currents, a simplified static approach might not be appropriate.

Oceanography and Mine Warfare

DTIC Science & Technology

2000-03-13

of breaking waves , the position and strength of surface currents, and the propagation of the tide into very shallow waters. In the surf zone...6) sediment properties determine shock wave propagation , a method for mine neutralization in the surf zone. 48 OCEANOGRAPHY AND MINE WARFARE...mines will be buried in the sediments, sedimentary explosive shock wave propagation is critical for determining operational performance. Presently, we

The influence of seasonal climate on the morphology of the mouth-bar in the Yangtze Estuary, China

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zhang, Min; Townend, Ian; Cai, Huayang; He, Jiawei; Mei, Xuefei

2018-02-01

The geomorphology of the Yangtze Estuary in the Changjiang River Delta in Eastern China has been the subject of extensive research. This study extends previous work to examine the influence of wind-waves on the mouth-bar, where about half of the river-borne material settles to the bed. The site is located just outside of Changjiang River mouth, which is meso-tidal and subject to seasonally varying river flows and wind-wave conditions. Modeling was performed with a coupled wave-current hydrodynamic model using TELEMAC and TOMAWAC and validated against observed data. Bottom Shear Stress (BSS) from river, tide and waves based on the numerical model output was used to infer the respective contribution to the evolution of the subaqueous delta. Our examination did not however extend to modeling the sediment transport or the morphological bed changes. The results suggest that (i) the dominance of river discharge is limited to an area inside the mouth, while outside, the mouth-bar is tide-wave dominant; (ii) considering just the tide, the currents on the shallow shoals are flood dominant and deep channels are ebb dominant, which induces continued accretion over the shallows and erodes the deeper parts of the mouth-bar until the tidal currents become too weak to transport sediment; (iii) whereas waves are very efficient at reshaping the shallow shoals, with the effect being subtly dependent on the depth distribution over the mouth-bar; (iv) the stability of shallow shoal morphology is highly dependent on the presence of seasonal wind-waves and characterized as "summer storing and winter erosion", while deep channels perform like corridors of water and sediment, exporting sediment all year round. The nature of the mouth-bar response has important implications for coastal management, such as the ongoing deep water channel maintenance, reclamations and coastal defense measures.

Observation of Tropical Cyclone-Induced Shallow Water Currents in Taiwan Strait

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Shen, Junqiang; Qiu, Yun; Zhang, Shanwu; Kuang, Fangfang

2017-06-01

The data from three stations equipped with Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers (ADCPs) deployed in the shallow water of the Taiwan Strait (TWS) were used to study the shallow coastal ocean response to five quasi-continuous tropical cyclone (TC) events in the late summer 2006. We revealed that, in the forced stage, when the large and strong TC (Bilis) transited, the geostrophic currents were formed which dominated the whole event, while the strong but relatively small one (Saomai) or the weak one (Bopha) primarily leaded to the generation of Ekman currents. In the relaxation stage, the barotropic subinertial waves and/or the baroclinic near-inertial oscillations (NIOs) were triggered. Typically, during the transit of the Saomai, subinertial waves were induced which demonstrated a period of 2.8-4.1 days and a mean alongshore phase velocity of 14.9 ± 3.2 m/s in the form of free-barotropic continental shelf waves. However, the NIOs are only notable in the area in which the water column is stably stratified and also where the wind stress is dominated by the clockwise component and accompanied by high-frequency (near-inertial) variations. We also demonstrated that, due to the damping effects, the nonlinear wave-wave interaction (e.g., between NIO and semidiurnal tide in our case), together with the well-known bottom friction, led to the rapid decay of the observed TC-induced near-inertial currents, giving a typical e-folding time scale of 1-3 inertial periods. Moreover, such nonlinear wave-wave interaction was even found to play a major role during the spring tide in TWS.

Internal waves in the Gulf of California - Observations from a spaceborne radar

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Fu, L.-L.; Holt, B.

1984-01-01

Pronounced signatures of internal waves were detected repeatedly in the Gulf of California by the Seasat synthetic aperture radar (SAR). A series of nine images with exactly repeating ground coverage was used to study the temporal variability of the internal wave field in the area. It was found that the number of observed wave groups was highly correlated with the strength of the local tides: the maximum number occurred during spring tides and the minimum number occurred during neap tides, indicating that the internal waves were tidally forced. Most of the wave activity was found to the north of 28 deg N where the tides were the strongest in the Gulf. The application of a simple, nonlinear internal wave model to the observations indicated that the peak-to-peak amplitude of the observed waves was about 50 m with an uncertainty of a factor of 2. The estimated upper bound for the rate of the loss of tidal energy to internal waves was about 5 x 10 to the 15th erg/s, representing only 10 percent of the rate of the dissipation of the dominant M2 tide in the Gulf.

30 CFR 585.112 - Definitions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2014 CFR

2014-07-01

... person or entity lawfully designated by or under State law to exercise the powers granted to a Governor... not limited to, wind, solar, and ocean waves, tides, and current. Revenues mean bonuses, rents...

30 CFR 585.112 - Definitions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2013 CFR

2013-07-01

... person or entity lawfully designated by or under State law to exercise the powers granted to a Governor... not limited to, wind, solar, and ocean waves, tides, and current. Revenues mean bonuses, rents...

30 CFR 585.112 - Definitions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2012 CFR

2012-07-01

... person or entity lawfully designated by or under State law to exercise the powers granted to a Governor... not limited to, wind, solar, and ocean waves, tides, and current. Revenues mean bonuses, rents...

Mesospheric Non-Migrating Tides Generated With Planetary Waves: II Influence of Gravity Waves

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Mayr, H. G.; Mengel, J. G.; Talaat, E. L.; Porter, H. S.; Chan, K. L.

2003-01-01

We demonstrated that, in our model, non-linear interactions between planetary waves (PW) and migrating tides could generate in the upper mesosphere non-migrating tides with amplitudes comparable to those observed. The Numerical Spectral Model (NSM) we employ incorporates Hines Doppler Spread Parameterization for small-scale gravity waves (GW), which affect in numerous ways the dynamics of the mesosphere. The latitudinal (seasonal) reversals in the temperature and zonal circulation, which are largely caused by GWs (Lindzen, 198l), filter the PWs and contribute to the instabilities that generate the PWs. The PWs in turn are amplified by the momentum deposition of upward propagating GWs, as are the migrating tides. The GWs thus affect significantly the migrating tides and PWs, the building blocks of non-migrating tides. In the present paper, we demonstrate that GW filtering also contributes to the non-linear coupling between PWs and tides. Two computer experiments are presented to make this point. In one, we simply turn off the GW source to show the effect. In the second case, we demonstrate the effect by selectively suppressing the momentum source for the m = 0 non-migrating tides.

Our Dynamic Coastline.

ERIC Educational Resources Information Center

Aubrey, David G.

1980-01-01

Discusses mechanisms which influence both rapid and gradual modifications of ocean beaches. Among factors described are storms, waves, currents, tides, sediment transport, and climate. Some effects of these forces upon coastline configurations are also presented. (WB)

Internal wave mode resonant triads in an arbitrarly stratified finite-depth ocean with background rotation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Varma, Dheeraj; Mathur, Manikandan

2017-11-01

Internal tides generated by barotropic tides on bottom topography or the spatially compact near-inertial mixed layer currents excited by surface winds can be conveniently represented in the linear regime as a superposition of vertical modes at a given frequency in an arbitrarily stratified ocean of finite depth. Considering modes (m , n) at a frequency ω in the primary wave field, we derive the weakly nonlinear solution, which contains a secondary wave at 2 ω that diverges when it forms a resonant triad with the primary waves. In nonuniform stratifications, resonant triads are shown to occur when the horizontal component of the classical RTI criterion k->1 +k->2 +k->3 = 0 is satisfied along with a non-orthogonality criterion. In nonuniform stratifications with a pycnocline, infinitely more pairs of primary wave modes (m , n) result in RTI when compared to a uniform stratification. Further, two nearby high modes at around the near-inertial frequency often form a resonant triad with a low mode at 2 ω , reminiscent of the features of PSI near the critical latitude. The theoretical framework is then adapted to investigate RTI in two different scenarios: low-mode internal tide scattering over topography, and internal wave beams incident on a pycnocline. The authors thank the Ministry of Earth Sciences, Government of India for financial support under the Monsoon Mission Grant MM/2014/IND-002.

A Multiscale Nested Modeling Framework to Simulate the Interaction of Surface Gravity Waves with Nonlinear Internal Gravity Waves

DTIC Science & Technology

2015-09-30

Meneveau, C., and L. Shen (2014), Large-eddy simulation of offshore wind farm , Physics of Fluids, 26, 025101. Zhang, Z., Fringer, O.B., and S.R...being centimeter scale, surface mixed layer processes arising from the combined actions of tides, winds and mesoscale currents. Issues related to...the internal wave field and how it impacts the surface waves. APPROACH We are focusing on the problem of modification of the wind -wave field

Evaluation of sediment transport at a fetch-limited beach from spring to neap tide

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Carrasco, Ana Rita; Ferreira, Óscar; Matias, Ana; Freire, Paula; Alveirinho Dias, João.

2010-05-01

Sediment transport studies are useful tools for the determination of sediment budgets, important in the definition of management policies, in particular in environments not fully understood like fetch-limited beaches. Only a few studies have been made with respect to these beaches, and research efforts need to be continued to correctly quantify the main factors governing morphological changes. The present study provides new insights on sediment transport at a fetch-limited backbarrier beach located at the Peninsula do Ancão (Ria Formosa, South of Portugal). The field site extends over ~150 m and includes a sandy beach with a low and narrow reflective morphology, and an external sand bank at the seaward edge of the sub-aerial beach profile. Fluorescent tracers were used to measure the short-term sediment transport (rates and directions) from spring to neap tides, for fair-weather conditions. The experiment was set at two beach morphologies: beach face and sand bank. Tracer was released on 20th March 2008 at both sites, and sampling was conducted at low tide, each 24h, during 7 days. In situ fluorescent tracer detection was performed with UV light. Currents were obtained with a portable single-axis electromagnetic current meter located at the beach face, and an Aquadopp Profiler located at the sand bank. Local waves were obtained by numerical modelling for the study area, based on prevailing winds (measured by a nearby meteorological station), and using available bathymetric surveys. Tracer trends, tidal currents, wind conditions and waves were integrative in order to determine to which forcing mechanism the beach morphology was more responsive. Daily wind intensities were, in average, close to 5 m/s, and maximum estimated significant wave height (Hs) did not exceed 0.045 m. Daily mean wave period ranged from 0.5 s to 0.7 s. The maximum tidal range was 2.8 m. Currents were of higher magnitude at the sand bank than at the beach face, with the maximum during ebb tide (0.50 m/s). At the beach face, maximum velocities are very similar for both ebb and flood tide, with a maximum of 0.26 m/s. Tracer displacement was greater at the beach face, indicating that this is the most active part of the profile during the experiment. At the sand bank, tracer dispersion was greater, but tracer advection was shorter. Tracer isopachs illustrate a relatively independency of both analysed morphologies, without significant exchange across the profile. At both morphologies, the residual transport is dominated by the longshore component, and mostly directed towards the ebb. Ebb directed transport agrees with ebb dominance on tidal currents at this location. Results suggest a tidal and current dominance. Tidal range assumes particular importance at beach face.

Long-term, high-frequency current and temperature measurements along central California: Insights into upwelling/relaxation and internal waves on the inner shelf

USGS Publications Warehouse

Storlazzi, C.D.; McManus, M.A.; Figurski, J.D.

2003-01-01

Thermistor chains and acoustic Doppler current profilers were deployed at the northern and southern ends of Monterey Bay to examine the thermal and hydrodynamic structure of the inner (h ??? 20 m) shelf of central California. These instruments sampled temperature and current velocity at 2-min intervals over a 13-month period from June 2000 to July 2001. Time series of these data, in conjunction with SST imagery and CODAR sea surface current maps, helped to establish the basic hydrography for Monterey Bay. Analysis of time series data revealed that depth integrated flow at both sites was shore parallel (northwest-southeast) with net flows out of the Bay (northwest). The current and temperature records were dominated by semi-diurnal and diurnal tidal signals that lagged the surface tides by 3 h on average. Over the course of an internal tidal cycle these flows were asymmetric, with the flow during the flooding internal tide to the southeast typically lasting only one-third as long as the flow to the northwest during the ebbing internal tide. The transitions from ebb to flood were rapid and bore-like in nature; they were also marked by rapid increases in temperature and high shear. During the spring and summer, when thermal stratification was high, we observed almost 2000 high-frequency (Tp ??? 4-20 min) internal waves in packets of 8-10 following the heads of these bore-like features. Previous studies along the West Coast of the US have concluded that warm water bores and high-frequency internal waves may play a significant role in the onshore transport of larvae.

Nearshore circulation on a sea breeze dominated beach during intense wind events

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Torres-Freyermuth, Alec; Puleo, Jack A.; DiCosmo, Nick; Allende-Arandía, Ma. Eugenia; Chardón-Maldonado, Patricia; López, José; Figueroa-Espinoza, Bernardo; de Alegria-Arzaburu, Amaia Ruiz; Figlus, Jens; Roberts Briggs, Tiffany M.; de la Roza, Jacobo; Candela, Julio

2017-12-01

A field experiment was conducted on the northern Yucatan coast from April 1 to April 12, 2014 to investigate the role of intense wind events on coastal circulation from the inner shelf to the swash zone. The study area is characterized by a micro-tidal environment, low-energy wave conditions, and a wide and shallow continental shelf. Furthermore, easterly trade winds, local breezes, and synoptic-scale events, associated with the passage of cold-fronts known as Nortes, are ubiquitous in this region. Currents were measured concurrently at different cross-shore locations during both local and synoptic-scale intense wind events to investigate the influence of different forcing mechanisms (i.e., large-scale currents, winds, tides, and waves) on the nearshore circulation. Field observations revealed that nearshore circulation across the shelf is predominantly alongshore-directed (westward) during intense winds. However, the mechanisms responsible for driving instantaneous spatial and temporal current variability depend on the weather conditions and the across-shelf location. During local strong sea breeze events (W > 10 m s-1 from the NE) occurring during spring tide, westward circulation is controlled by the tides, wind, and waves at the inner-shelf, shallow waters, and inside the surf/swash zone, respectively. The nearshore circulation is relaxed during intense land breeze events (W ≈ 9 m s-1 from the SE) associated with the low atmospheric pressure system that preceded a Norte event. During the Norte event (Wmax≈ 15 m s-1 from the NNW), westward circulation dominated outside the surf zone and was correlated to the Yucatan Current, whereas wave breaking forces eastward currents inside the surf/swash zone. The latter finding implies the existence of large alongshore velocity shear at the offshore edge of the surf zone during the Norte event, which enhances mixing between the surf zone and the inner shelf. These findings suggest that both sea breezes and Nortes play an important role in sediment and pollutant transport along/across the nearshore of the Yucatan shelf.

Wave Coupling in the Atmosphere-Ionosphere System

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Forbes, J. M.

2016-12-01

Vertically-propagating solar and lunar tides, Kelvin waves, gravity waves (GW) and planetary waves (PW) constitute the primary mechanism for transmitting lower atmosphere variability to the upper atmosphere and ionosphere. Vertically propagating waves grow exponentially with height into the more rarified atmosphere where they dissipate, deposit net momentum and heat, and induce net constituent transport. Some waves penetrate to the base of the exosphere (ca. 500-600 km). Over the past decade, a mature knowledge of the tidal part of the spectrum has emerged, in an average or climatological sense, up to about 110 km. This knowledge has largely accrued as a result of remote sensing observations made from the TIMED satellite. These observations have also enabled limited studies on day-to-day variability of atmospheric tides, the PW and Kelvin wave spectra up to 110 km, and PW-tide coupling. Complementary ionospheric observations made by GPS receivers, COSMIC, CHAMP, and ROCSAT contain signatures of plasma redistributions induced by these waves, and ionosphere-thermosphere (IT) general circulation models have been developed that provide a corroborating theoretical foundation. Pioneering theoretical and modeling work also demonstrate the importance of the GW part of the spectrum on thermosphere circulation and thermal structure. While significant strides have been made, critical shortcomings in our understanding of atmosphere-IT coupling remain. In particular, we are practically absent any observations of the vertical evolution and dissipation of the wave spectrum between 100 and 200 km, which is also the region where electric fields and currents are generated by dynamo action. Moreover, the day-to-day variability of the wave spectrum and secondary wave generation remain to be quantified in this critical region. In this talk, the above progress and knowledge gaps will be examined in light of imminent and potential future missions.

The Role of Gravity Waves in Generating Equatorial Oscillations in Modulating Atmospheric Tides

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Mayr, H. G.; Mengel, J. G.; Chan, K. L.; Porter, H. S.; Reddy, C. A.

1999-01-01

We discuss a Numerical Spectral Mode (NSM) that extends from the ground up into the thermosphere and incorporates Hines' Doppler spread parameterization (DSP) for small scale gravity waves (GW). This model is applied to describe the seasonal variations in the mean zonal circulation, the semi-annual and quasi-biennial oscillations (SAO and QBO), as well as the tides and planetary waves in the middle atmosphere. Initial results showed that this model can reproduce the salient features observed, including the QBO extending into the upper mesosphere inferred from UARS measurements. The model has now been extended to simulate also: (a) the zonal circulation of the lower stratosphere and upper troposphere, and (b) the upwelling at equatorial latitudes associated with the Brewer Dobsen circulation that affects the dynamics significantly as pointed out by Dunkerton. Upward vertical winds increase the period of the QBO observed from the ground. To compensate for that, one needs to increase in the model the eddy diffusivity and the GW momentum flux, bringing the latter closer to values recommended in the DSP. This development is conducive to extending the QBO and SAO to higher latitudes through global scale momentum redistribution. Multi-year interannual oscillations are generated through wave filtering by the solar driven annual oscillation in the zonal circulation. In a 3D version of the model, wave momentum is absorbed and dissipated by tides and planetary waves. A somewhat larger GW source (well within the DSP range) is then required to generate realistic QBO and SAO amplitudes. Since GW momentum is deposited in the altitude regime of increasing winds, the amplitude of the diurnal tide is amplified and its vertical wavelength is reduced at altitudes between 70 and 120 km. Wave filtering by the mean zonal circulation causes the GW flux to peak during equinox, and this produces a large semi-annual variation in the tide that has been observed on UARS. Without the diurnal tide, the semidiurnal tide would also be modulated in this way. But the diurnal tide filters out the GW preferentially during equinox, so that the semidiurnal tide tends to peak during solstice. Under the influence of GW, the tides are modulated significantly by planetary waves that are generated preferentially during solstice in part due to baroclinic instability.

Offshore Energy Mapping for Northeast Atlantic and Mediterranean: MARINA PLATFORM project

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kallos, G.; Galanis, G.; Spyrou, C.; Kalogeri, C.; Adam, A.; Athanasiadis, P.

2012-04-01

Deep offshore ocean energy mapping requires detailed modeling of the wind, wave, tidal and ocean circulation estimations. It requires also detailed mapping of the associated extremes. An important issue in such work is the co-generation of energy (generation of wind, wave, tides, currents) in order to design platforms on an efficient way. For example wind and wave fields exhibit significant phase differences and therefore the produced energy from both sources together requires special analysis. The other two sources namely tides and currents have different temporal scales from the previous two. Another important issue is related to the estimation of the environmental frequencies in order to avoid structural problems. These are issues studied at the framework of the FP7 project MARINA PLATFORM. The main objective of the project is to develop deep water structures that can exploit the energy from wind, wave, tidal and ocean current energy sources. In particular, a primary goal will be the establishment of a set of equitable and transparent criteria for the evaluation of multi-purpose platforms for marine renewable energy. Using these criteria, a novel system set of design and optimisation tools will be produced addressing new platform design, component engineering, risk assessment, spatial planning, platform-related grid connection concepts, all focussed on system integration and reducing costs. The University of Athens group is in charge for estimation and mapping of wind, wave, tidal and ocean current resources, estimate available energy potential, map extreme event characteristics and provide any additional environmental parameter required.

Tides and deltaic morphodynamics

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Plink-Bjorklund, Piret

2016-04-01

Tide-dominated and tide-influenced deltas are not widely recognized in the ancient record, despite the numerous modern and Holocene examples, including eight of the twelve modern largest deltas in the world, like the Ganges-Brahmaputra, Amazon, Chang Jiang, and Irrawadi. Furthermore, tide-dominated or tide-influenced deltas are suggested to be more common in inner-shelf or embayment settings rather than close to or at a shelf edge, primarily because wave energy is expected to be higher and tidal energy lower in outer shelf and shelf-edge areas. Thus, most shelf-edge deltas are suggested to be fluvial or wave dominated. However, there are ancient examples of tide-influenced shelf-edge deltas, indicating that the controls on tidal morphodynamics in deltas are not yet well understood. This paper asks the following questions: (1) How do tides influence delta deposition, beyond creating recognizable tidal facies? (2) Does tidal reworking create specific geometries in delta clinoforms? (3) Does tidal reworking change progradation rates of deltas? (4) Is significant tidal reworking of deltas restricted to inner-shelf deltas only? (5) What are the conditions at which deltas may be tidally influenced or tide-dominated in outer-shelf areas or at the shelf edge? (6) What are the main morphodynamic controls on the degree of tidal reworking of deltas? The paper utilizes a dataset of multiple ancient and modern deltas, situated both on the shelf and shelf edge. We show that beyond the commonly recognized shore-perpendicular morphological features and the recognizable tidal facies, the main effects of tidal reworking of deltas are associated with delta clinoform morphology, morphodynamics of delta lobe switching, delta front progradation rates, and the nature of the delta plain. Strong tidal influence is here documented to promote subaqueous, rapid progradation of deltas, by efficiently removing sediment from river mouth and thus reducing mouth bar aggradation and fluvial delta plain construction rates. Such subaqueous progradation of the delta front is decoupled from shoreline progradation. The delta plain of such tide-dominated deltas consists of a few distributary channels and tidal flats on top of the emerged tidal bars. The delta front clinoforms become gentler and longer, as ebb tidal currents together with river effluent efficiently transport sediment to the basin. Tide-dominated deltas tend to maintain a funnel shape and show low lobe switching rates, compared to fluvial-dominated and tide-influenced deltas. The funnel and thus river mouth position is further stabilized by fine-grained sediment accumulation on marginal tidal flats due to the flood current sediment transport. However, all these effect weaken as the deltas prograde to the shelf edge, due to the loss of vertical (and lateral) restriction and tidal amplification. Here significant tidal reworking tends to be restricted to topographic irregularities, caused by incision, delta-lobe or mouth bar deposition and avulsions, or tectonic processes. The role of such topographic restrictions is twofold, by reducing wave energy and amplifying tidal energy.

The Effect of Waves on the Tidal-Stream Energy Resource

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lewis, M. J.; Neill, S. P.; Robins, P. E.; Hashemi, M. R.

2016-02-01

The tidal-stream energy resource is typically estimated using depth-averaged "tide-only" hydrodynamic models and do not consider the influence of waves. We find that waves will reduce the available resource, and the wave climate needs to be considered when designing a resilient and efficient tidal-stream energy device. Using well-validated oceanographic models of the Irish Sea and Northwest European shelf, we show tidal-stream energy sites with quiescent wave climates are extremely limited, with limited sea-space and limited scope for future development. To fully realise the potential of tidal-stream energy and to ensure globally deployable devices, the influence of waves on the resource and turbines must be considered. The effect of waves upon the tidal current was investigated using observations (ADCP and wave buoy time-series), and a state-of-the-art, 3-dimensional, dynamically coupled wave-tide model (COAWST). The presence of waves reduced the depth-averaged tidal current, which reduced the potential extractable power by 10% per metre wave height increase. To ensure resilience and survivability, tidal-stream energy device may cease to produce electricity during extremes (often called downtime), however the wave conditions threshold for device shut-down is unknown, and requires future work. The presence of waves will also effect turbine performance and design criteria; for example, the presence of waves was found to alter the shape of the velocity profile, and wave-current misalignment (waves propagating at an angle oblique to the plane of tidal flow) was found to occur for a significant amount of time at many potential tidal-stream energy sites. Therefore, waves reduced the available resource, furthermore the influence of waves on the interaction between tidal energy devices and the tidal-stream resource needs to be characterised in physically-scaled tank experiments and computational fluid dynamics (CFD) numerical models.

Integration of coastal inundation modeling from storm tides to individual waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Li, Ning; Roeber, Volker; Yamazaki, Yoshiki; Heitmann, Troy W.; Bai, Yefei; Cheung, Kwok Fai

2014-11-01

Modeling of storm-induced coastal inundation has primarily focused on the surge generated by atmospheric pressure and surface winds with phase-averaged effects of the waves as setup. Through an interoperable model package, we investigate the role of phase-resolving wave processes in simulation of coastal flood hazards. A spectral ocean wave model describes generation and propagation of storm waves from deep to intermediate water, while a non-hydrostatic storm-tide model has the option to couple with a spectral coastal wave model for computation of phase-averaged processes in a near-shore region. The ocean wave and storm-tide models can alternatively provide the wave spectrum and the surface elevation as the boundary and initial conditions for a nested Boussinesq model. Additional surface-gradient terms in the Boussinesq equations maintain the quasi-steady, non-uniform storm tide for modeling of phase-resolving surf and swash-zone processes as well as combined tide, surge, and wave inundation. The two nesting schemes are demonstrated through a case study of Hurricane Iniki, which made landfall on the Hawaiian Island of Kauai in 1992. With input from a parametric hurricane model and global reanalysis and tidal datasets, the two approaches produce comparable significant wave heights and phase-averaged surface elevations in the surf zone. The nesting of the Boussinesq model provides a seamless approach to augment the inundation due to the individual waves in matching the recorded debris line along the coast.

Improving NOAA's NWLON Through Enhanced Data Inputs from NASA's Ocean Surface Topography

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Guest, DeNeice C.

2010-01-01

This report assesses the benefit of incorporating NASA's OSTM (Ocean Surface Topography Mission) altimeter data (C- and Ku-band) into NOAA's (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) NWLON (National Water Level Observation Network) DSS (Decision Support System). This data will enhance the NWLON DSS by providing additional inforrnation because not all stations collect all meteorological parameters (sea-surface height, ocean tides, wave height, and wind speed over waves). OSTM will also provide data where NWLON stations are not present. OSTM will provide data on seasurface heights for determining sea-level rise and ocean circulation. Researchers and operational users currently use satellite altimeter data products with the GSFCOO NASA data model to obtain sea-surface height and ocean circulation inforrnation. Accurate and tirnely inforrnation concerning sea-level height, tide, and ocean currents is needed to irnprove coastal tidal predictions, tsunarni and storm surge warnings, and wetland restoration.

Ecological traps in shallow coastal waters-Potential effect of heat-waves in tropical and temperate organisms.

PubMed

Vinagre, Catarina; Mendonça, Vanessa; Cereja, Rui; Abreu-Afonso, Francisca; Dias, Marta; Mizrahi, Damián; Flores, Augusto A V

2018-01-01

Mortality of fish has been reported in tide pools during warm days. That means that tide pools are potential ecological traps for coastal organisms, which happen when environmental changes cause maladaptive habitat selection. Heat-waves are predicted to increase in intensity, duration and frequency, making it relevant to investigate the role of tide pools as traps for coastal organisms. However, heat waves can also lead to acclimatization. If organisms undergo acclimatization prior to being trapped in tide pools, their survival chances may increase. Common tide pool species (46 species in total) were collected at a tropical and a temperate area and their upper thermal limits estimated. They were maintained for 10 days at their mean summer sea surface temperature +3°C, mimicking a heat-wave. Their upper thermal limits were estimated again, after this acclimation period, to calculate each species' acclimation response. The upper thermal limits of the organisms were compared to the temperatures attained by tide pool waters to investigate if 1) tide pools could be considered ecological traps and 2) if the increase in upper thermal limits elicited by the acclimation period could make the organisms less vulnerable to this threat. Tropical tide pools were found to be ecological traps for an important number of common coastal species, given that they can attain temperatures higher than the upper thermal limits of most of those species. Tide pools are not ecological traps in temperate zones. Tropical species have higher thermal limits than temperate species, but lower acclimation response, that does not allow them to survive the maximum habitat temperature of tropical tide pools. This way, tropical coastal organisms seem to be, not only more vulnerable to climate warming per se, but also to an increase in the ecological trap effect of tide pools.

Thermal Tides During the 2001 Martian Global-Scale Dust Storm

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Guzewich, Scott D.; Wilson, R. John; McConnochie, Timothy H.; Toigo, Anthony D.; Bandfield, Donald J.; Smith, Michael D.

2014-01-01

The 2001 (Mars Year 25) global dust storm radically altered the dynamics of the Martian atmosphere. Using observations from the Thermal Emission Spectrometer onboard the Mars Global Surveyor spacecraft and Mars WRF general circulation model simulations, we examine the changes to thermal tides and planetary waves caused by the storm. We find that the extratropical diurnal migrating tide is dramatically enhanced during the storm, particularly in the southern hemisphere, reaching amplitudes of more than 20 K. The tropical diurnal migrating tide is weakened to almost undetectable levels. The diurnal Kelvin waves are also significantly weakened, particularly during the period of global expansion at Ls=200deg-210deg. In contrast, the westward propagating diurnal wavenumber 2 tide strengthens to 4-8 K at altitudes above 30km. The wavenumber 1 stationary wave reaches amplitudes of 10-12 K at 50deg-70degN, far larger than is typically seen during this time of year. The phase of this stationary wave and the enhancement of the diurnal wavenumber 2 tide appear to be responses to the high-altitude westward propagating equatorial wavenumber 1 structure in dust mixing ratio observed during the storm in previous works. This work provides a global picture of dust storm wave dynamics that reveals the coupling between the tropics and high-latitude wave responses. We conclude that the zonal distribution of thermotidal forcing from atmospheric aerosol concentration is as important to understanding the atmospheric wave response as the total global mean aerosol optical depth.

Experiments on topographies lacking tidal conversion

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Maas, Leo; Paci, Alexandre; Yuan, Bing

2015-11-01

In a stratified sea, internal tides are supposedly generated when the tide passes over irregular topography. It has been shown that for any given frequency in the internal wave band there are an infinite number of exceptions to this rule of thumb. This ``stealth-like'' property of the topography is due to a subtle annihilation of the internal waves generated during the surface tide's passage over the irregular bottom. We here demonstrate this in a lab-experiment. However, for any such topography, subsequently changing the surface tide's frequency does lead to tidal conversion. The upshot of this is that a tidal wave passing over an irregular bottom is for a substantial part trapped to this irregularity, and only partly converted into freely propagating internal tides. Financially supported by the European Community's 7th Framework Programme HYDRALAB IV.

The atypical hydrodynamics of the Mayotte Lagoon (Indian Ocean): Effects on water age and potential impact on plankton productivity

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Chevalier, C.; Devenon, J. L.; Pagano, M.; Rougier, G.; Blanchot, J.; Arfi, R.

2017-09-01

In mesotidal lagoons of the Indian Ocean, the coral reef barrier may be temporarily submerged at high tide and partially exposed at low tide, and this may cause unusual lagoon dynamics. A field measurement campaign was conducted in the north-east Mayotte Lagoon in order to understand these processes. An experimental approach was used, combining measurements taken by 1) a side-mounted Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) on a moving boat along transects through the reef passages (17 transects) and 2) by more conventional high-resolution moored ADCP measurements. A specific tidal analysis methodology was used to determine the spatial variability of the velocity. The tidal hydrodynamics within the lagoon were determined using a numerical model and then analyzed. The tide acted as a quasi-progressive forced wave in the lagoon: at low tide, water entered through the south passage, over the reef and left the lagoon through the north passage. This flow was reversed at high tide. The tide-driven quasi-progressive wave created a specific lagoon dynamics. Contrary to most other channel lagoons, the flow over the reef was mainly outward. This increases the inflow through the passages, which renews the water in the lagoon as shown by the indicators of age and origin of the water inside the lagoon. This study also showed the importance of these indicators for better understanding the variations and levels of plankton biomass (with chlorophyll concentration as proxy) which is quite high in this lagoon.

Nonmigrating tidal modulation of the equatorial thermosphere and ionosphere anomaly

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lei, Jiuhou; Thayer, Jeffrey P.; Wang, Wenbin; Yue, Jia; Dou, Xiankang

2014-04-01

The modulation of nonmigrating tides on both the ionospheric equatorial ionization anomaly (EIA) and the equatorial thermosphere anomaly (ETA) is investigated on the basis of simulations from the Thermosphere Ionosphere Mesosphere Electrodynamics General Circulation Model (TIME-GCM). Our simulations demonstrate the distinct features of the EIA and ETA seen in observations after the inclusion of field-aligned ion drag in the model. Both the EIA and the ETA in the constant local time frame display an obvious zonal wave-4 structure associated with the modulation of nonmigrating tides. However, the modeled EIA and ETA show a primary zonal wave-1 structure when only the migrating tides are specified at the model lower boundary. Our simulations reveal that the zonal wave-4 structure of the ETA under both low and high solar activity conditions is mainly caused by the direct response of the upper thermosphere to the diurnal eastward wave number 3 and semidiurnal eastward wave number 2 nonmigrating tides from the lower atmosphere. There is a minor contribution from the ion-neutral coupling. The zonal wave-4 structure of the EIA is also caused by these nonmigrating tides but through the modulation of the neutral wind dynamo.

Migrating diurnal tide variability induced by propagating planetary waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Chang, Loren C.

The migrating diurnal tide is one of the dominant dynamical features in the low latitudes of the Earth's Mesosphere and Lower Thermosphere (MLT) region, representing the atmospheric response to the largest component of solar forcing, propagating upwards from excitation regions in the lower atmosphere. Ground-based observations of the tide have resolved short term variations attributed to nonlinear interactions between the tide and planetary waves also in the region. However, the conditions, effects, and mechanisms of a planetary wave - tidal interaction are still unclear. These questions are addressed using the NCAR Thermosphere Ionosphere Mesosphere Electrodynamics General Circulation Model (TIME-GCM) to examine two types of planetary waves, known to attain significant amplitudes in the low latitude and equatorial region where the migrating diurnal tide is dominant. The quasi-two day wave (QTDW) can rapidly amplify to large amplitudes from the summer hemisphere during post-solstice periods, while ultra fast Kelvin (UFK) waves occur sporadically in the temperature and zonal wind fields of the equatorial lower thermosphere. While child waves resulting from a nonlinear interaction are resolved in both cases, the response of the tidal structure and amplitudes to the two planetary waves differs significantly. In the case of the QTDW, the migrating diurnal tide displays a general amplitude decrease of 20 - 40%, as well as a shortening of vertical wavelength by roughly 4 km. Nonlinear advection is found to result in energy transfer to and from the tide, resulting in latitudinal smoothing of the tidal structure. The QTDW also produces significant changes to the mean zonal winds in the equator and at summer mid to high latitudes that can also account for changes in tidal amplitude and vertical wavelength. Filtering of gravity waves by the altered mean winds can also result in changes to the zonal mean zonal winds in the tropics. However, gravity wave momentum forcing on the tide is smaller than the advective tendencies throughout most of the MLT region, and cannot iv directly account for the changes in the tide during the QTDW model simulation. In the case of the UFK wave, baseline tidal amplitudes are found to show much smaller changes of 10% or less, despite the larger amplitudes of the UFK wave in the lower thermosphere region compared to the QTDW. Analysis of the nonlinear advective tendencies shows smaller magnitudes than those in the the case of the QTDW, with interaction regions limited primarily to a smaller region in latitude and altitude. Increased tidal convergence in the tropical lower thermosphere is attributed to eastward forcing of the background zonal mean winds by the UFK wave. Increasing the UFK wave forcing by an order of magnitude, although unrealistic, results in changes to the tide comparable in magnitude to the case of the QTDW. While child waves generated by nonlinear advection are present with both of the propagating planetary waves examined, the QTDW produces much greater tidal variability through both nonlinear and linear advection due to its broader horizontal and vertical structure, compared to the UFK wave. Planetary wave induced background atmosphere changes can also drive tidal variability, suggesting that changes to the tidal response in the MLT can also result from this indirect coupling mechanism, in addition to nonlinear advection.

Tides and tsunamis

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Zetler, B. D.

1972-01-01

Although tides and tsunamis are both shallow water waves, it does not follow that they are equally amenable to an observational program using an orbiting altimeter on a satellite. A numerical feasibility investigation using a hypothetical satellite orbit, real tide observations, and sequentially increased levels of white noise has been conducted to study the degradation of the tidal harmonic constants caused by adding noise to the tide data. Tsunami waves, possibly a foot high and one hundred miles long, must be measured in individual orbits, thus requiring high relative resolution.

Transport of horseshoe crab eggs by waves and swash on an estuarine beach: Implications for foraging shorebirds

USGS Publications Warehouse

Nordstrom, K.F.; Jackson, N.L.; Smith, D.R.; Weber, R.G.

2006-01-01

The abundance of horseshoe crab eggs in the swash zone and remaining on the beach after tide levels fall was evaluated to identify how numbers of eggs available to shorebirds differ with fluctuations in spawning numbers of horseshoe crabs, wave energies and beach elevation changes. Field data were gathered 1-6 June 2004 at Slaughter Beach on the west side of Delaware Bay, USA. Counts of spawning crabs and process data from a pressure transducer and an anemometer and wind vane were related to number of eggs, embryos and larvae taken at depth and on the surface of the foreshore and in the active swash zone using a streamer trap. Beach elevation changes and depths of sediment activation were used to determine the potential for buried eggs to be exhumed by waves and swash. Mean significant wave heights during high water levels ranged from 0.08 to 0.40 m. Spawning counts were low (50-140 females km-1) when wave heights were low; no spawning occurred when wave heights were high. Vegetative litter (wrack) on the beach provides local traps for eggs, making more eggs available for shorebirds. Accumulation of litter on days when wave energy is low increases the probability that eggs will remain on the surface. High wave energies transport more eggs in the swash, but these eggs are dispersed or buried, and fewer eggs remain on the beach. Peaks in the number of eggs in the swash uprush occur during tidal rise and around time of high tide. The number of eggs in transport decreases during falling tide. Many more eggs move in the active swash zone than are found on the beach after water level falls, increasing the efficiency of bird foraging in the swash. Greater numbers of eggs in the swash during rising tide than falling tide and fewer eggs at lower elevations on the beach, imply that foraging becomes less productive as the tide falls and may help account for the tendency of shorebirds to feed on rising tides rather than on falling or low tides on days when no spawning occurs. ?? 2006 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Mesosphere Dynamics with Gravity Wave Forcing. 1; Diurnal and Semi-Diurnal Tides

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Mayr, H. G.; Mengel, J. G.; Chan, K. L.; Porter, H. S.; Einaudi, Franco (Technical Monitor)

2000-01-01

We present results from a nonlinear, 3D, time dependent numerical spectral model (NSM), which extends from the ground up into the thermosphere and incorporates Hines' Doppler Spread Parameterization for small-scale gravity waves (GW). Our focal point is the mesosphere that is dominated by wave interactions. We discuss diurnal and semi-diurnal tides ill the present paper (Part 1) and planetary waves in the companion paper (Part 2). To provide an understanding of the seasonal variations of tides, in particular with regard to gravity wave processes, numerical experiments are performed that lead to the following conclusions: 1. The large semiannual variations in tile diurnal tide (DT), with peak amplitudes observed around equinox, are produced primarily by GW interactions that involve, in part, planetary waves. 2. The DT, like planetary waves, tends to be amplified by GW momentum deposition, which reduces also the vertical wavelength. 3.Variations in eddy viscosity associated with GW interactions tend to peak in late spring and early fall and call also influence the DT. 4. The semidiurnal semidiurnal tide (SDT), and its phase in particular, is strongly influenced by the mean zonal circulation. 5. The SDT, individually, is amplified by GW's. But the DT filters out GW's such that the wave interaction effectively reduces the amplitude of the SDT, effectively producing a strong nonlinear interaction between the DT and SDT. 6.) Planetary waves generated internally by baroclinic instability and GW interaction produce large amplitude modulations of the DT and SDT.

Radar studies of gravity waves and tides in the middle atmosphere - A review

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Rastogi, P. K.

1981-01-01

A review is presented of recent radar studies of gravity waves and tides in the middle atmosphere (over regions of approximately 10-30 and 60-90 km). The techniques used for monitoring the motions are outlined and their limitations are pointed out. The radars provide observations of short-period (1 min-1 h) gravity waves and tides at selected height intervals, depending on the radar frequency and the observation technique. The following contributions to the study of the midatmosphere are included in the discussion: (1) buoyancy oscillations and short-period (less than 10 min) acoustic-gravity waves have been observed in the troposphere and stratosphere and, in several cases, their generation and propagation near critical levels has been reconciled with theoretical models; (2) excitation of stratospheric waves by penetrative convection associated with thunderstorms has been established; (3) stratospheric and mesospheric tides at diurnal and semidiurnal periods have been observed; and (4) long-period (approximately 2 to 5 days) waves have been observed in the mesosphere. It is noted that more comprehensive data bases need to be obtained for further tidal and wave studies.

Projections of extreme water level events for atolls in the western Tropical Pacific

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Merrifield, M. A.; Becker, J. M.; Ford, M.; Yao, Y.

2014-12-01

Conditions that lead to extreme water levels and coastal flooding are examined for atolls in the Republic of the Marshall Islands based on a recent field study of wave transformations over fringing reefs, tide gauge observations, and wave model hindcasts. Wave-driven water level extremes pose the largest threat to atoll shorelines, with coastal levels scaling as approximately one-third of the incident breaking wave height. The wave-driven coastal water level is partitioned into a mean setup, low frequency oscillations associated with cross-reef quasi-standing modes, and wind waves that reach the shore after undergoing high dissipation due to breaking and bottom friction. All three components depend on the water level over the reef; however, the sum of the components is independent of water level due to cancelling effects. Wave hindcasts suggest that wave-driven water level extremes capable of coastal flooding are infrequent events that require a peak wave event to coincide with mid- to high-tide conditions. Interannual and decadal variations in sea level do not change the frequency of these events appreciably. Future sea-level rise scenarios significantly increase the flooding threat associated with wave events, with a nearly exponential increase in flooding days per year as sea level exceeds 0.3 to 1.0 m above current levels.

Atmosphere-Ionosphere Coupling due to Atmospheric Tides (Julius Bartels Medal Lecture)

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Forbes, Jeffrey M.

2016-04-01

Within the last decade, a new realization has arrived on the scene of ionosphere-thermosphere (IT) science: terrestrial weather significantly influences space weather. The aspect of space weather referred to here consists of electron density variability that translates to uncertainties in navigation and communications systems, and neutral density variability that translates to uncertainties in orbital and reentry predictions. In the present context "terrestrial weather" primarily refers to the meteorological conditions that determine the spatial-temporal distribution of tropospheric water vapor and latent heating associated with tropical convection, and the middle atmosphere disturbances associated with sudden stratosphere warmings. The net effect of these processes is a spatially- and temporally-evolving spectrum of waves (gravity waves, tides, planetary waves, Kelvin waves) that grows in amplitude with height and enters the IT system near ~100 km. Some members of the wave spectrum penetrate all the way to the base of the exosphere (ca. 500 km). Along the way, nonlinear interactions between different wave components occur, modifying the interacting waves and giving rise to secondary waves. Finally, the IT wind perturbations carried by the waves can redistribute ionospheric plasma, either through the electric fields generated via the dynamo mechanism between 100 and 150 km, or directly by moving plasma along magnetic field lines at higher levels. Additionally, the signatures of wave-driven dynamo currents are reflected in magnetic perturbations observed at the ground. This is how terrestrial atmospheric variability, through the spectrum of vertically- propagating waves that it produces, can effectively drive IT space weather. The primary objective of this Julius Bartels Lecture is to provide an overview of the global observational evidence for the IT consequences of these upward-propagating waves. In honor of Julius Bartels, who performed much research (including his habilitation thesis) on atmospheric and geomagnetic tides, this talk will emphasize the tidal part of the wave spectrum and its effects on the upper atmosphere.

The complete spectrum of the equatorial electrojet related to solar tides: CHAMP observations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lühr, H.; Manoj, C.

2013-08-01

Based on 10 yr of magnetic field measurements by the CHAMP satellite we draw a detailed picture of the equatorial electrojet (EEJ) tidal variations. For the first time the complete EEJ spectrum related to average solar tides has been compiled. A large fraction of the resulting spectrum is related to the switch on/off of the EEJ between day and night. This effect has carefully been considered when interpreting the results. As expected, largest amplitudes are caused by the migrating tides representing the mean diurnal variation. Higher harmonics of the daily variations show a 1/f fall-off in amplitude. Such a spectrum is required to represent the vanishing of the EEJ current at night. The migrating tidal signal exhibits a distinct annual variation with large amplitudes during December solstice and equinox seasons but a depression by a factor of 1.7 around June-July. A rich spectrum of non-migrating tidal effects is deduced. Most prominent is the four-peaked longitudinal pattern around August. Almost 90% of the structure can be attributed to the diurnal eastward-propagating tide DE3. In addition the westward-propagating DW5 is contributing to wave-4. The second-largest non-migrating tide is the semi-diurnal SW4 around December solstice. It causes a wave-2 feature in satellite observations. The three-peaked longitudinal pattern, often quoted as typical for the December season, is significantly weaker. During the months around May-June a prominent wave-1 feature appears. To first order it represents a stationary planetary wave SPW1 which causes an intensification of the EEJ at western longitudes beyond 60° W and a weakening over Africa/India. In addition, a prominent ter-diurnal non-migrating tide TW4 causes the EEJ to peak later, at hours past 14:00 local time in the western sector. A particularly interesting non-migrating tide is the semi-diurnal SW3. It causes largest EEJ amplitudes from October through December. This tidal component shows a strong dependence on solar flux level with increasing amplitudes towards solar maximum. We are not aware of any previous studies mentioning this behaviour of SW3. The main focus of this study is to present the observed EEJ spectrum and its relation to tidal driving. For several of the identified spectral components we cannot offer convincing explanations for the generation mechanisms.

The Physical Ocean.

ERIC Educational Resources Information Center

NatureScope, 1988

1988-01-01

Examines the physical properties of the ocean (including the composition of seawater; waves, currents, and tides) and the topography of the ocean floor. Included are (1) activities on oceans, saltwater, and the sea floor; and (2) questions, and a puzzle which can be copied. (Author/RT)

Variability in benthic exchange rate, depth, and residence time beneath a shallow coastal estuary

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Russoniello, C. J.; Michael, H. A.; Heiss, J.

2017-12-01

Hydrodynamically-driven exchange of water between the water column and shallow seabed aquifer, benthic exchange, is a significant and dynamic component of coastal and estuarine fluid budgets, but wave-induced benthic exchange has not been measured in the field. Mixing between surface water and groundwater solutes promotes ecologically important chemical reactions, so quantifying benthic exchange rates, depths, and residence times, constrains estimates of coastal chemical cycling. In this study, we present the first field-based direct measurements of wave-induced exchange and compare it to exchange induced by the other primary drivers of exchange - tides, and currents. We deployed instruments in a shallow estuary to measure benthic exchange and temporal variability over an 11-day period. Differential pressure sensors recorded pressure gradients across the seabed, and up-and down-looking ADCPs recorded currents and pressures from which wave parameters, surface-water currents, and water depth were determined. Wave-induced exchange was calculated directly from 1) differential pressure measurements, and indirectly with an analytical solution based on wave parameters from 2) ADCP and 3) weather station data. Groundwater flow models were used to assess the effects of aquifer properties on benthic exchange depth and residence time. Benthic exchange driven by tidal pumping or current-bedform interaction was calculated from tidal stage variation and from ADCP-measured currents at the bed, respectively. Waves were the primary benthic exchange driver (average = 20.0 cm/d, maximum = 92.3 cm/d) during the measurement period. Benthic exchange due to tides (average = 3.7 cm/d) and current-bedform interaction (average = 6.5x10-2 cm/d) was much lower. Wave-induced exchange calculated from pressure measurements and ADCP-measured wave parameters matched well, but wind-based rates underestimated wave energy and exchange. Groundwater models showed that residence time and depth increased in high-permeability, incompressible aquifers, and exchange rates increased in low-permeability, compressible aquifers. These findings support and extend the utility of existing wave-induced exchange solutions and will help managers assess the importance of benthic exchange on coastal chemical cycling.

Middle Atmosphere Dynamics with Gravity Wave Interactions in the Numerical Spectral Model: Tides and Planetary Waves

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Mayr, Hans G.; Mengel, J. G.; Chan, K. L.; Huang, F. T.

2010-01-01

As Lindzen (1981) had shown, small-scale gravity waves (GW) produce the observed reversals of the zonal-mean circulation and temperature variations in the upper mesosphere. The waves also play a major role in modulating and amplifying the diurnal tides (DT) (e.g., Waltersheid, 1981; Fritts and Vincent, 1987; Fritts, 1995a). We summarize here the modeling studies with the mechanistic numerical spectral model (NSM) with Doppler spread parameterization for GW (Hines, 1997a, b), which describes in the middle atmosphere: (a) migrating and non-migrating DT, (b) planetary waves (PW), and (c) global-scale inertio gravity waves. Numerical experiments are discussed that illuminate the influence of GW filtering and nonlinear interactions between DT, PW, and zonal mean variations. Keywords: Theoretical modeling, Middle atmosphere dynamics, Gravity wave interactions, Migrating and non-migrating tides, Planetary waves, Global-scale inertio gravity waves.

The influence of neap-spring tidal variation and wave energy on sediment flux in salt marsh tidal creeks

USGS Publications Warehouse

Lacy, Jessica; Ferner, Matthew C.; Callaway, John C.

2018-01-01

Sediment flux in marsh tidal creeks is commonly used to gage sediment supply to marshes. We conducted a field investigation of temporal variability in sediment flux in tidal creeks in the accreting tidal marsh at China Camp State Park adjacent to northern San Francisco Bay. Suspended-sediment concentration (SSC), velocity, and depth were measured near the mouths of two tidal creeks during three six-to-ten-week deployments: two in winter and one in summer. Currents, wave properties and SSC were measured in the adjacent shallows. All deployments spanned the largest spring tides of the season. Results show that tidally-averaged suspended-sediment flux (SSF) in the tidal creeks decreased with increasing tidal energy, and SSF was negative (bayward) for tidal cycles with maximum water surface elevation above the marsh plain. Export during the largest spring tides dominated the cumulative SSF measured during the deployments. During ebb tides following the highest tides, velocities exceeded 1 m/s in the narrow tidal creeks, resulting in negative tidally-averaged water flux, and mobilizing sediment from the creek banks or bed. Storm surge also produced negative SSF. Tidally-averaged SSF was positive in wavey conditions with moderate tides. Spring-tide sediment export was about 50% less at a station 130 m further up the tidal creek than at the creek mouth. The negative tidally-averaged water flux near the creek mouth during spring tides indicates that in the lower marsh, some of the water flooding directly across the bay--marsh interface drains through the tidal creeks, and suggests that this interface may be a pathway for sediment supply to the lower marsh as well.

Strait of Gibraltar as seen from STS-60

NASA Image and Video Library

1994-02-09

STS060-88-070 (3-11 Feb 1994) --- This view shows sunglint in the Strait of Gibralter. In this photograph a high pressure atmospheric system over the Iberian Peninsula has set the conditions for seeing a plankton bloom along the Moroccan coast in the Alboran Sea (Western Mediterranean) coastal counter current as well as illumining the influence of winds in the sunglint pattern near the Strait of Gibraltar. Where the water is ruffled from a wind gust, such as off Cadiz, Spain, the surface is less reflective and thus appears dark. A combination of the effects of the tide and the surface winds through the Strait of Gibraltar have created a unique sunglint pattern at the entrance of the Mediterranean. The Atlantic Ocean waters are flowing with the tide through the Strait of Gibraltar into the Mediterranean Sea and are probably smoothing out some of the smaller waves at the surface. The incoming tide generates internal waves as can be faintly seen in this photograph. The incoming relatively cooler, less dense Atlantic water flows over the warm, more saline Mediterranean water. As the tide moves into the Strait of Gibraltar it encounters the Camarinal Sill, which is like a cliff under the water, south of Camarinal Point, Spain. Internal waves are generated at this sill and they travel along the density boundary between the Atlantic water and the Mediterranean water masses. There is little evidence of the internal waves at the surface of the ocean. We can see them in spacecraft photography because of the sunglint which reflects off the different water layers in differential patterns. The internal waves also smooth out some of the bands of capillary waves at the surface. That is, the sun reflects more brightly from these smooth areas, showing the pattern of the underwater waves more prominently than do the surface waves. The Bay of Cadiz on the southwest coast of Spain, the Rock of Gibraltar, and the Moroccan coast are also beautifully illustrated in this photography. The focus for scientists, however, remains the high clarity and spatial resolution given by sunglint studies to physical phenomena in the ocean.

Design, optimization and numerical modelling of a novel floating pendulum wave energy converter with tide adaptation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Yang, Jing; Zhang, Da-hai; Chen, Ying; Liang, Hui; Tan, Ming; Li, Wei; Ma, Xian-dong

2017-10-01

A novel floating pendulum wave energy converter (WEC) with the ability of tide adaptation is designed and presented in this paper. Aiming to a high efficiency, the buoy's hydrodynamic shape is optimized by enumeration and comparison. Furthermore, in order to keep the buoy's well-designed leading edge always facing the incoming wave straightly, a novel transmission mechanism is then adopted, which is called the tidal adaptation mechanism in this paper. Time domain numerical models of a floating pendulum WEC with or without tide adaptation mechanism are built to compare their performance on various water levels. When comparing these two WECs in terms of their average output based on the linear passive control strategy, the output power of WEC with the tide adaptation mechanism is much steadier with the change of the water level and always larger than that without the tide adaptation mechanism.

Ecological traps in shallow coastal waters—Potential effect of heat-waves in tropical and temperate organisms

PubMed Central

Mendonça, Vanessa; Cereja, Rui; Abreu-Afonso, Francisca; Dias, Marta; Mizrahi, Damián; Flores, Augusto A. V.

2018-01-01

Mortality of fish has been reported in tide pools during warm days. That means that tide pools are potential ecological traps for coastal organisms, which happen when environmental changes cause maladaptive habitat selection. Heat-waves are predicted to increase in intensity, duration and frequency, making it relevant to investigate the role of tide pools as traps for coastal organisms. However, heat waves can also lead to acclimatization. If organisms undergo acclimatization prior to being trapped in tide pools, their survival chances may increase. Common tide pool species (46 species in total) were collected at a tropical and a temperate area and their upper thermal limits estimated. They were maintained for 10 days at their mean summer sea surface temperature +3°C, mimicking a heat-wave. Their upper thermal limits were estimated again, after this acclimation period, to calculate each species’ acclimation response. The upper thermal limits of the organisms were compared to the temperatures attained by tide pool waters to investigate if 1) tide pools could be considered ecological traps and 2) if the increase in upper thermal limits elicited by the acclimation period could make the organisms less vulnerable to this threat. Tropical tide pools were found to be ecological traps for an important number of common coastal species, given that they can attain temperatures higher than the upper thermal limits of most of those species. Tide pools are not ecological traps in temperate zones. Tropical species have higher thermal limits than temperate species, but lower acclimation response, that does not allow them to survive the maximum habitat temperature of tropical tide pools. This way, tropical coastal organisms seem to be, not only more vulnerable to climate warming per se, but also to an increase in the ecological trap effect of tide pools. PMID:29420657

Floodtide pulses after low tides in shallow subembayments adjacent to deep channels

USGS Publications Warehouse

Warner, J.C.; Schoellhamer, D.H.; Ruhl, C.A.; Burau, J.R.

2004-01-01

In shallow waters surface gravity waves (tides) propagate with a speed proportional to the square root of water depth (c=g(h+η)). As the ratio of free surface displacement to mean depth (η/h) approaches unity the wave will travel noticeably faster at high tide than at low tide, creating asymmetries in the tidal form. This physical process is explained analytically by the increased significance of friction and the nonlinear terms in the continuity and momentum equations. In a tidal system comprising a shallow bay adjacent to a deeper channel, tidal asymmetries will be more prevalent in the shallow bay. Thus strong barotropic gradients can be generated between the two, producing rapid accelerations of currents into the bay (relative to other bay tidal processes) and create a maximum peak in the flood tide that we describe as a floodtide pulse. These floodtide pulses can promote a landward flux of suspended-sediment into the bay. In Grizzly Bay (part of northern San Francisco Bay, USA), field observations verify the occurrence of floodtide pulses during the lowest low tides of the year. No pulses were observed in neighboring Honker Bay, which has an average depth ~30 cm greater than Grizzly Bay. Numerical simulations of northern San Francisco Bay using realistic bathymetry demonstrated that floodtide pulses occurred in Grizzly Bay but not in Honker Bay, consistent with the observations. Both observations and numerical simulations show that floodtide pulses promote a landward flux of sediment into Grizzly Bay. Numerical simulations of an idealized bay-channel system quantify the importance of mean depth and friction in creating these floodtide pulses. 

Mobile Bay river plume mixing in the inner shelf

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Parra, S. M.; Book, J. W.; Warner, S. J.; Moum, J.

2017-12-01

The microtidal region (0.5 m spring tides) of the inner shelf outside Mobile Bay presented a complex circulation pattern driven by the pulsed river discharge and winds. Currents, salinity, temperature, and turbulence profiles were measured for up to three weeks in April 2016 at six moorings outside Mobile Bay. Currents varied between locations and with depth. During neap and spring tides the currents were reliably >0.4 and <0.4 m/s, respectively. The outflow from Mobile Bay generated a complex density circulation, where two to three layers were normally present. Multiple density layers included a thicker brackish middle layer (5-10 m thickness), and a salty bottom layer (5-10 m thickness), with a thin ( 1-3 m) freshwater surface layer found intermittently. The multilayer currents were strongest at neap tides (>0.5 m/s) and toward deeper waters, concurrent with the strongest stratification. The possible flow drivers considered include tides, winds, inertial oscillations, waves, and stratification. Turbulent kinetic energy production and dissipation were calculated with multiple methods using data from bottom-mounted, upward-looking acoustic Doppler current profilers sampling at 1 Hz, and using data from line-moored chi-pod turbulent temperature microstructure instruments sampling at 100 Hz. This work explores different forcing mechanisms involved in modulating the circulation and turbulence in a multi-layered pulsed-river inner shelf region in the Gulf of Mexico.

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Pinto, F. T.; Iglesias, G.; Santos, P. R.

Marine renewable energy (MRE) is generates from waves, currents, tides, and thermal resources in the ocean. MRE has been identified as a potential commercial-scale source of renewable energy. This special topic presents a compilation of works selected from the 3rd IAHR Europe Congress, held in Porto, Portugal, in 2014. It covers different subjects relevant to MRE, including resource assessment, marine energy sector policies, energy source comparisons based on levelized cost, proof-of-concept and new-technology development for wave and tidal energy exploitation, and assessment of possible inference between wave energy converters (WEC).

Wind-enhanced resuspension in the shallow waters of South San Francisco Bay: Mechanisms and potential implications for cohesive sediment transport

USGS Publications Warehouse

Brand, Andreas; Lacy, Jessica R.; Hsu, Kevin; Hoover, Daniel; Gladding, Steve; Stacey, Mark T.

2010-01-01

We investigated the driving forces of sediment dynamics at the shoals in South San Francisco Bay. Two stations were deployed along a line perpendicular to a 14 m deep channel, 1000 and 2000 m from the middle of the channel. Station depths were 2.59 and 2.19 m below mean lower low water, respectively. We used acoustic Doppler velocimeters for the simultaneous determination of current velocities, turbulence, sediment concentration and fluxes. Maximum current shear velocities were 0.015 m s−1 at the station further from the channel (closer to the shore) and 0.02 m s−1 at the station closer to the channel. Peak wave-induced shear velocities exceeded 0.015 m s−1 at both stations. Maximum sediment concentrations were around 30 g m−3 during calm periods (root mean square wave height −3 and sediment fluxes were 5 times higher than in calm conditions (0.02 g m−2 s−1 versus >0.10 g m−2 s−1) at the station further from the channel 0.36 m above the bed. Closer to the channel, sediment concentrations and vertical fluxes due to wind wave resuspension were persistently lower (maximum concentrations around 50 g m−3 and maximum fluxes around 0.04 g m−2 s−1). Most resuspension events occurred during flood tides that followed wave events during low water. Although wave motions are able to resuspend sediment into the wave boundary layer at low tide, the observed large increases in sediment fluxes are due to the nonlinear interaction of wind waves and the tidal currents.

Assessing the vertical structure of baroclinic tidal currents in a global model

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Timko, Patrick; Arbic, Brian; Scott, Robert

2010-05-01

Tidal forcing plays an important role in many aspects of oceanography. Mixing, transport of particulates and internal wave generation are just three examples of local phenomena that may depend on the strength of local tidal currents. Advances in satellite altimetry have made an assessment of the global barotropic tide possible. However, the vertical structure of the tide may only be observed by deployment of instruments throughout the water column. Typically these observations are conducted at pre-determined depths based upon the interest of the observer. The high cost of such observations often limits both the number and the length of the observations resulting in a limit to our knowledge of the vertical structure of tidal currents. One way to expand our insight into the baroclinic structure of the ocean is through the use of numerical models. We compare the vertical structure of the global baroclinic tidal velocities in 1/12 degree HYCOM (HYbrid Coordinate Ocean Model) to a global database of current meter records. The model output is a subset of a 5 year global simulation that resolves the eddying general circulation, barotropic tides and baroclinic tides using 32 vertical layers. The density structure within the simulation is both vertically and horizontally non-uniform. In addition to buoyancy forcing the model is forced by astronomical tides and winds. We estimate the dominant semi-diurnal (M2), and diurnal (K1) tidal constituents of the model data using classical harmonic analysis. In regions where current meter record coverage is adequate, the model skill in replicating the vertical structure of the dominant diurnal and semi-diurnal tidal currents is assessed based upon the strength, orientation and phase of the tidal ellipses. We also present a global estimate of the baroclinic tidal energy at fixed depths estimated from the model output.

Internal Tide Generation by Steep Topography

DTIC Science & Technology

2007-09-01

acting on the barotropic tide ( Foda and Hill 1998) was incomplete. Kunze will put this work in the context of recent internal tide research and...Topographically generated internal waves in the open ocean. J. Geophys. Res., 80, 320-327. Foda , M.A., and D.F. Hill, 1998: Nonlinear energy...Bispectral analysis of energy transfer within the two-dimensional ocean internal wave field. . Phys. Oceanogr., 35, 2104-2109. Garrett, C., and E

Tidal Conversion and Mixing Poleward of the Critical Latitude (an Arctic Case Study)

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Rippeth, Tom P.; Vlasenko, Vasiliy; Stashchuk, Nataliya; Scannell, Brian D.; Green, J. A. Mattias; Lincoln, Ben J.; Bacon, Sheldon

2017-12-01

The tides are a major source of the kinetic energy supporting turbulent mixing in the global oceans. The prime mechanism for the transfer of tidal energy to turbulent mixing results from the interaction between topography and stratified tidal flow, leading to the generation of freely propagating internal waves at the period of the forcing tide. However, poleward of the critical latitude (where the period of the principal tidal constituent exceeds the local inertial period), the action of the Coriolis force precludes the development of freely propagating linear internal tides. Here we focus on a region of sloping topography, poleward of the critical latitude, where there is significant conversion of tidal energy and the flow is supercritical (Froude number, Fr > 1). A high-resolution nonlinear modeling study demonstrates the key role of tidally generated lee waves and supercritical flow in the transfer of energy from the barotropic tide to internal waves in these high-latitude regions. Time series of flow and water column structure from the region of interest show internal waves with characteristics consistent with those predicted by the model, and concurrent microstructure dissipation measurements show significant levels of mixing associated with these internal waves. The results suggest that tidally generated lee waves are a key mechanism for the transfer of energy from the tide to turbulence poleward of the critical latitude.

Three-Dimensional Dynamics of Baroclinic Tides Over a Seamount

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Vlasenko, Vasiliy; Stashchuk, Nataliya; Nimmo-Smith, W. Alex M.

2018-02-01

The Massachusetts Institute of Technology general circulation model is used for the analysis of baroclinic tides over Anton Dohrn Seamount (ADS), in the North Atlantic. The model output is validated against in situ data collected during the 136th cruise of the RRS "James Cook" in May-June 2016. The observational data set includes velocity time series recorded at two moorings as well as temperature, salinity, and velocity profiles collected at 22 hydrological stations. Synthesis of observational and model data enabled the reconstruction of the details of baroclinic tidal dynamics over ADS. It was found that the baroclinic tidal waves are generated in the form of tidal beams radiating from the ADS periphery to its center, focusing tidal energy in a surface layer over the seamount's summit. This energy focusing enhances subsurface water mixing and the local generation of internal waves. The tidal beams interacting with the seasonal pycnocline generate short-scale internal waves radiating from the ADS center. An important ecological outcome from this study concerns the pattern of residual currents generated by tides. The rectified flows over ADS have the form of a pair of dipoles, cyclonic and anticyclonic eddies located at the seamount's periphery. These eddies are potentially an important factor in local larvae dispersion and their escape from ADS.

Between tide and wave marks: a unifying model of physical zonation on littoral shores

PubMed Central

Bird, Christopher E.; Franklin, Erik C.; Smith, Celia M.

2013-01-01

The effects of tides on littoral marine habitats are so ubiquitous that shorelines are commonly described as ‘intertidal’, whereas waves are considered a secondary factor that simply modifies the intertidal habitat. However mean significant wave height exceeds tidal range at many locations worldwide. Here we construct a simple sinusoidal model of coastal water level based on both tidal range and wave height. From the patterns of emergence and submergence predicted by the model, we derive four vertical shoreline benchmarks which bracket up to three novel, spatially distinct, and physically defined zones. The (1) emergent tidal zone is characterized by tidally driven emergence in air; the (2) wave zone is characterized by constant (not periodic) wave wash; and the (3) submergent tidal zone is characterized by tidally driven submergence. The decoupling of tidally driven emergence and submergence made possible by wave action is a critical prediction of the model. On wave-dominated shores (wave height ≫ tidal range), all three zones are predicted to exist separately, but on tide-dominated shores (tidal range ≫ wave height) the wave zone is absent and the emergent and submergent tidal zones overlap substantially, forming the traditional “intertidal zone”. We conclude by incorporating time and space in the model to illustrate variability in the physical conditions and zonation on littoral shores. The wave:tide physical zonation model is a unifying framework that can facilitate our understanding of physical conditions on littoral shores whether tropical or temperate, marine or lentic. PMID:24109544

Mechanistic Drifting Forecast Model for A Small Semi-Submersible Drifter Under Tide-Wind-Wave Conditions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zhang, Wei-Na; Huang, Hui-ming; Wang, Yi-gang; Chen, Da-ke; Zhang, lin

2018-03-01

Understanding the drifting motion of a small semi-submersible drifter is of vital importance regarding monitoring surface currents and the floating pollutants in coastal regions. This work addresses this issue by establishing a mechanistic drifting forecast model based on kinetic analysis. Taking tide-wind-wave into consideration, the forecast model is validated against in situ drifting experiment in the Radial Sand Ridges. Model results show good performance with respect to the measured drifting features, characterized by migrating back and forth twice a day with daily downwind displacements. Trajectory models are used to evaluate the influence of the individual hydrodynamic forcing. The tidal current is the fundamental dynamic condition in the Radial Sand Ridges and has the greatest impact on the drifting distance. However, it loses its leading position in the field of the daily displacement of the used drifter. The simulations reveal that different hydrodynamic forces dominate the daily displacement of the used drifter at different wind scales. The wave-induced mass transport has the greatest influence on the daily displacement at Beaufort wind scale 5-6; while wind drag contributes mostly at wind scale 2-4.

The wave-tide-river delta classification revisited: Introducing the effects of Humans on delta equilibriu

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Besset, M.; Anthony, E.; Sabatier, F.

2016-12-01

The influence of physical processes on river deltas has long been identified, mainly on the basis of delta morphology. A cuspate delta is considered as wave-dominated, a delta with finger-like extensions is characterized as river-dominated, and a delta with estuarine re-entrants is considered tide-dominated (Galloway, 1975). The need for a more quantitative classification is increasingly recognized, and is achievable through quantified combinations, a good example being Syvitski and Saito (2007) wherein the joint influence of marine power - wave and tides - is compared to that of river influence. This need is further justified as deltas become more and more vulnerable. Going forward from the Syvitski and Saito (2007) approach, we confront, from a large database on 60 river deltas, the maximum potential power of waves and the tidal range (both representing marine power), and the specific stream power and river sediment supply reflecting an increasingly human-impacted river influence. The results show that 45 deltas (75%) have levels of marine power that are significantly higher than those of specific stream power. Five deltas have sufficient stream power to counterbalance marine power but a present sediment supply inadequate for them to be statistically considered as river-dominated. Six others have a sufficient sediment supply but a specific stream power that is not high enough for them to be statistically river-dominated. A major manifestation of the interplay of these parameters is accelerated delta erosion worldwide, shifting the balance towards marine power domination. Deltas currently eroding are mainly influenced by marine power (93%), and small deltas (< 300 km2 of deltaic protuberance) are the most vulnerable (82%). These high levels of erosion domination, compounded by accelerated subsidence, are related to human-induced sediment supply depletion and changes in water discharge in the face of the sediment-dispersive capacity of waves and currents.

THR ROLE OF SEABED DYNAMICS IN STRUCTURING A MESOHALINE MACROBENTIC INFAUNAL COMMUNITY

EPA Science Inventory

Estuaries are dynamic physical environments. The stability of the sediment-water interface is influenced by sources and rates of sediment delivery and reworking of sediments by currents, tides, waves and biology, but effects of disruption of this interface on benthic biology are...

On the influence of reflection over a rhythmic swash zone on surf zone dynamics

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Almar, Rafael; Nicolae Lerma, Alexandre; Castelle, Bruno; Scott, Timothy

2018-05-01

The reflection of incident gravity waves over an irregular swash zone morphology and the resulting influence on surf zone dynamics remains mostly unexplored. The wave-phase resolving SWASH model is applied to investigate this feedback using realistic low-tide terraced beach morphology with well-developed beach cusps. The rhythmic reflection generates a standing wave that mimics a subharmonic edge wave, from the superimposition of incident and two-dimensional reflected waves. This mechanism is enhanced by shore-normal, narrow-banded waves in both direction and frequency. Our study suggests that wave reflection over steep beaches could be a mechanism for the development of rhythmic morphological features such as beach cusps and rip currents.

Comprehensive Condition Survey and Storm Waves, Circulation, and Sedimentation Study, Dana Point Harbor, California

DTIC Science & Technology

2011-07-01

Tide on January 5, 2010 Figure 3-1 CMS-Wave Model Domain and Grid System Figure 3-2 CDIP 096 Wave and NOAA 9410660 Water Levels Figure 3-3 NDBC...Figure 3-10 Scatter plot of Observed CDIP and Hindcast Significant Wave Heights Figure 3-11 Comparison of Significant Wave Heights during the Month...obtained from the Coastal Data Information Program ( CDIP ) at Dana Point (Buoy 096) as well as the predicted tides at Newport Beach, CA (Station 9410580

On the generation and evolution of internal solitary waves in the southern Red Sea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Guo, Daquan; Zhan, Peng; Kartadikaria, Aditya; Akylas, Triantaphyllos; Hoteit, Ibrahim

2015-04-01

Satellite observations recently revealed the existence of trains of internal solitary waves in the southern Red Sea between 16.0°N and 16.5°N, propagating from the centre of the domain toward the continental shelf [Da silva et al., 2012]. Given the relatively weak tidal velocity in this area and their generation in the central of the domain, Da Silva suggested three possible mechanisms behind the generation of the waves, namely Resonance and disintegration of interfacial tides, Generation of interfacial tides by impinging, remotely generated internal tidal beams and for geometrically focused and amplified internal tidal beams. Tide analysis based on tide stations data and barotropic tide model in the Red Sea shows that tide is indeed very weak in the centre part of the Red Sea, but it is relatively strong in the northern and southern parts (reaching up to 66 cm/s). Together with extreme steep slopes along the deep trench, it provides favourable conditions for the generation of internal solitary in the southern Red Sea. To investigate the generation mechanisms and study the evolution of the internal waves in the off-shelf region of the southern Red Sea we have implemented a 2-D, high-resolution and non-hydrostatic configuration of the MIT general circulation model (MITgcm). Our simulations reproduce well that the generation process of the internal solitary waves. Analysis of the model's output suggests that the interaction between the topography and tidal flow with the nonlinear effect is the main mechanism behind the generation of the internal solitary waves. Sensitivity experiments suggest that neither tidal beam nor the resonance effect of the topography is important factor in this process.

Tidal-cycle changes in oscillation ripples on the inner part of an estuarine sand flat

USGS Publications Warehouse

Dingler, J.R.; Clifton, H.E.

1984-01-01

Oscillation ripples form on subaqueous sand beds when wave-generated, near-bottom water motions are strong enough to move sand grains. The threshold of grain motion is the lower bound of the regime of oscillation ripples and the onset of sheet flow is the upper bound. Based on the relation between ripple spacing and orbital diameter, three types of symmetrical ripples occur within the ripple regime. In the lower part of the ripple regime (orbital ripples), spacing is proportional to orbital diameter; in the upper part (anorbital ripples) spacing is independent of orbital diameter. Between these regions occurs a transitional region (suborbital ripples). Oscillation ripples develop on a sandy tidal flat in Willapa Bay, Washington, as a result of waves traversing the area when it is submerged. Because wave energy is usually low within the bay, the ripples are primarily orbital in type. This means that their spacing should respond in a systematic way to changes in wave conditions. During the high-water parts of some tidal cycles, ripples near the beach decrease in spacing during the latter stage of the ebb tide while ripples farther offshore do not change. Observations made over several tidal cycles show that the zone of active ripples shifts on- or offshore in response to different wave conditions. Detailed bed profiles and current measurements taken during the high-water part of spring tides show the manner in which the oscillation ripples change with changes in orbital diameter. Changes in ripple spacing at the study site could be correlated with changes in orbital diameter in the manner suggested by the criterion for orbital ripples. However, there appeared to be a lag time between a decrease in orbital diameter and the corresponding decrease in ripple spacing. Absence of change during a tidal cycle could be attributed to orbital velocities below the threshold for grain motion that negated the effects of changes in orbital diameter. Because changes in sand-flat ripples depend both upon changes in orbital diameter and upon the magnitude of the orbital velocity, exposed ripples were not necessarily produced during the preceding high tide. In fact, some ripples may have been just produced, while others, farther offshore, may have been produced an unknown number of tides earlier. Therefore, when interpreting past wave conditions over tidal flats from low-tide ripples, one must remember that wave periods have to be short enough to produce velocities greater than the threshold velocity for the orbital diameters calculated from the observed ripple spacings. ?? 1984.

Winds and Waves (4 Min - 11 Yrs) in the Upper Middle Atmosphere (60-110 Km) at Saskatoon, Canada (52 Deg N, 107 Deg W): MF Radar (2.2 Mhz) Soundings 1973 - 1983

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Manson, A. H.; Meek, C. E.; Gregory, J. B.

1984-01-01

Examples of gravity waves (GW), tides, planetary waves (PW), and circulation effects in the upper middle atmosphere are presented. Energy densities of GW, tides, and PW are compared. Fourier and spectral analyses are applied to the data.

Challenges in Defining Tsunami Wave Heights

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Dunbar, Paula; Mungov, George; Sweeney, Aaron; Stroker, Kelly; Arcos, Nicolas

2017-08-01

The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) National Centers for Environmental Information (NCEI) and co-located World Data Service for Geophysics maintain the global tsunami archive consisting of the historical tsunami database, imagery, and raw and processed water level data. The historical tsunami database incorporates, where available, maximum wave heights for each coastal tide gauge and deep-ocean buoy that recorded a tsunami signal. These data are important because they are used for tsunami hazard assessment, model calibration, validation, and forecast and warning. There have been ongoing discussions in the tsunami community about the correct way to measure and report these wave heights. It is important to understand how these measurements might vary depending on how the data were processed and the definition of maximum wave height. On September 16, 2015, an 8.3 M w earthquake located 48 km west of Illapel, Chile generated a tsunami that was observed all over the Pacific region. We processed the time-series water level data for 57 coastal tide gauges that recorded this tsunami and compared the maximum wave heights determined from different definitions. We also compared the maximum wave heights from the NCEI-processed data with the heights reported by the NOAA Tsunami Warning Centers. We found that in the near field different methods of determining the maximum tsunami wave heights could result in large differences due to possible instrumental clipping. We also found that the maximum peak is usually larger than the maximum amplitude (½ peak-to-trough), but the differences for the majority of the stations were <20 cm. For this event, the maximum tsunami wave heights determined by either definition (maximum peak or amplitude) would have validated the forecasts issued by the NOAA Tsunami Warning Centers. Since there is currently only one field in the NCEI historical tsunami database to store the maximum tsunami wave height for each tide gauge and deep-ocean buoy, NCEI will consider adding an additional field for the maximum peak measurement.

Prefrontal bore mixing

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

van Haren, Hans; Duineveld, Gerard; de Stigter, Henko

2017-09-01

Rainbow Ridge, a 1950 m deep upthrusted ultramafic block along the axis of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, has an active hydrothermal vent system at 2400 m on its western slope. However, within 1 km from the vent excessive temperatures are barely measurable, probably due to strong turbulent mixing. This mixing is studied here using a 400 m long high-resolution temperature sensor array moored with a 600 m ranging 75 kHz acoustic Doppler current profiler. Rich internal wave turbulence was recorded, characterized by 100-200 m upshoots and >200 m large overturning in particular near the end of the warming phase of the up and down moving tide. These highly nonlinear internal waves of tides interacting with buoyancy frequency waves extend up to 400 m above the sloping bottom of the ridge. While a turbulent "bottom boundary layer" could barely be defined, the more intense turbulence higher up in the water column is suggested to lead to the strong dispersion of the hydrothermal plume.

Optimizing Internal Wave Drag in a Forward Barotropic Model with Semidiurnal Tides

DTIC Science & Technology

2015-01-23

Center 875 North Randolph Street, Suite 1425 Arlington, VA 22203-1995 ONR Approved for public release, distribution is unlimited. A global tuning...factor with a larger value in the Atlantic. Our best global mean RMS error of 4.4 cm for areas deeper than 1000 m and equatorward of 66_ is among the...lowest obtained in a forward barotropic tide model. Barotropic tides; Global modeling; Linear wave drag Unclassified Unclassified Unclassified UU

Propagation of the Semidiurnal Internal Tide: Phase Velocity Versus Group Velocity

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zhao, Zhongxiang

2017-12-01

The superposition of two waves of slightly different wavelengths has long been used to illustrate the distinction between phase velocity and group velocity. The first-mode M2 and S2 internal tides exemplify such a two-wave model in the natural ocean. The M2 and S2 tidal frequencies are 1.932 and 2 cycles per day, respectively, and their superposition forms a spring-neap cycle in the semidiurnal band. The spring-neap cycle acts like a wave, with its frequency, wave number, and phase being the differences of the M2 and S2 internal tides. The spring-neap cycle and energy of the semidiurnal internal tide propagate at the group velocity. Long-range propagation of M2 and S2 internal tides in the North Pacific is observed by satellite altimetry. Along a 3,400 km beam spanning 24°-54°N, the M2 and S2 travel times are 10.9 and 11.2 days, respectively. For comparison, it takes the spring-neap cycle 21.1 days to travel over this distance. Spatial maps of the M2 phase velocity, the S2 phase velocity, and the group velocity are determined from phase gradients of the corresponding satellite observed internal tide fields. The observed phase and group velocities agree with theoretical values estimated using the World Ocean Atlas 2013 annual-mean ocean stratification.

Modeling Storm-Influenced Suspended Particulate Matter Flocculation Using a Tide-Wave-Combined Biomineral Model.

PubMed

Chen, Peihung; Yu, Jason C S; Fettweis, Michael

2018-03-01

  Flocculation of suspended particulate matter (SPM) in marine and estuarine environments is a complex process that is influenced by physical, biological, and chemical mechanisms. The flocculation model of Maggi (2009) was adapted to simulate flocculation under various weather conditions and during different seasons. The adaptation incorporated the effect of tide-wave-combined turbulence on floc dynamics. The model was validated using in situ measurements of floc size and SPM concentration from the southern North Sea during both calm and storm conditions. The results show that tide-wave-combined turbulence needs to be incorporated when simulating flocculation in a tide-wave-dominated environment. The observed seasonal variations in floc size (Fettweis et al., 2014) were reproduced using varying values for various floc strengths in different seasons. The results revealed that the biological effect on floc strength, which enhances aggregation, is stronger during summer, indicating that floc strength in the model should be varied seasonally.

Planetary Wave-Tide Interactions in Atmosphere-Ionosphere Coupling, Xiaoli Zhang, Jeffrey M. Forbes, Astrid Maute, and Maura E. Hagan

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zhang, X.; Forbes, J. M.; Maute, A. I.

2017-12-01

Planetary Wave-Tide Interactions in Atmosphere-Ionosphere Coupling Xiaoli Zhang, Jeffrey M. Forbes, Astrid Maute, and Maura E. Hagan The existence of secondary waves in the mesosphere and thermosphere due to nonlinear interactions between atmospheric tides and longer-period waves have been revealed in both satellite data and in the National Center for Atmospheric Research (NCAR) Thermosphere Ionosphere Mesosphere Electrodynamics General Circulation Model (TIME-GCM). The longer-period waves include the quasi-2-day and 6-day westward-propagating "normal modes" of the atmosphere, and eastward-propagating ultra-fast Kelvin waves with periods between 2 and 4 days. The secondary waves add to both the temporal and longitude variability of the atmosphere beyond that associated with the linear superposition of the interacting waves, thus adding "complexity" to the system. Based on our knowledge of the processes governing atmosphere-ionosphere interactions, similar revelations are expected to occur in electric fields, vertical plasma drifts and F-region electron densities. Towards this end, examples of such ionospheric manifestations of wave-wave interactions in TIE-GCM simulations will be presented.

Coastal Awareness: A Resource Guide for Teachers in Junior High Science.

ERIC Educational Resources Information Center

Rasmussen, Frederick A.

Background information, activity suggestions, and recommended resource materials comprise this guide for designing a week-long ecology unit for junior high school students on Coastal Awareness. Discussed is how various physical processes such as waves, currents, and tides affect rocky shores, marshes, sandy beaches, and estuaries. To encourage…

Coastal Awareness: A Resource Guide for Teachers in Elementary Science.

ERIC Educational Resources Information Center

Rasmussen, Frederick A.

Intended to encourage elementary teachers to explore coastal ecology with their students, this guide presents background material, activity suggestions, and recommended resource materials that could be used in designing a week-long unit on Coastal Awareness. Discussed is how various physical processes such as waves, tides, and currents affect…

EIGHTH GRADE UNIT, SEA--RESTLESS GIANT.

ERIC Educational Resources Information Center

CHAPMAN, FRANK L.

AN EIGHTH GRADE UNIT GUIDE ON OCEANOLOGY HAS BEEN DEVELOPED BY THE CARTERET COUNTY PUBLIC SCHOOLS OF BEAUFORT, NORTH CAROLINA. NARRATIVE AND DIAGRAMMATIC DESCRIPTIONS DEAL WITH VARIOUS OCEAN PHENOMENA, SUCH AS TIDES, WAVES, CURRENTS, OCEAN FLOORS, BEACHES, ETC. CLASS QUESTIONS AND DISCUSSION QUESTIONS ARE PROVIDED AT THE END OF EACH SECTION OF THE…

Moving sands along a headland-embayed beach system (Algarve, Southern Portugal)

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Oliveira, Sónia; Horta, João; Nascimento, Ana; Gomes, Ana; Veiga-Pires, Cristina; Moura, Delminda

2015-04-01

Resilience of embayed and pocket beaches located at the southernmost coast of Portugal is currently a major question to coastal management of this region. In fact, several among those beaches have been artificially fed aiming to increase the width of the beach allowing people to maintain a safe distance to the unstable rocky cliffs. The sand is dredged from the offshore (ca. 2 miles from the shoreline) representing high costs for the Portuguese government. For how long will the artificial feeding solve the problem? Which beaches are worth being nourished taking into account the morphosedimentary processes? The present work is the result of a field experiment aiming to study the efficiency of the alongshore sedimentary transport between successive embayed beaches. The experiment was performed in the very indented rocky coast of the Algarve region (Southern Portugal) and comprised two field campaigns, both in 2014, during spring tides in March and November. The Algarve coast experiences a semi-diurnal meso-tidal regime ranging from 1.3 m during neap tides to 3.5 m at spring tides and the waves approach from WSW (232°) during 72% of observations along the year, almost normal to the study area shoreline. The wave and current characteristics (significant height-Hs and Period-T for waves, velocity and direction for currents) were measured during three and six tidal cycles respectively for the first and second campaign, using two pressure transducers and one electromagnetic current meter. We used sand painted with orange fluorescent dye (100 kg in March and 200 kg in November) as tracer to track the movement of the sand along the coast. The marked sand was placed on the beach face of the westernmost beach of the study area during the first low tide of each campaign. Following, hundreds of sediment samples were collected during low tide, through the monitored period, in the nodes of a georeferenced square mesh of 10 x 20 m covering three embayed beaches. Later in the laboratory, sediment was characterized concerning the grain size distribution and the marked grains (MG) which were identified and counted with the use of a black light. After statistical analysis, several maps were developed in a Geographical Information System in order to quantify and interpret the direction and velocity of the movement of the sand induced by the observed waves and currents. The results of this work showed that: (i) when the existing shore platforms between adjacent embayed beaches are exposed, their surface is topographically higher than the beach face and strongly dissected by channels (e.g., joints) and karstic cavities, and thus the transference of sand between the adjacent beaches is almost nil, (ii) when a topographic continuity was observed between the beach face and the surface of the shore platforms, the transference of sand between adjacent cells is effective. The two reported situations depend on the beach morphosedimentary processes driven by the angle between the waves and the shoreline. This work is a contribution to the PTDC/GEO-GEO/3981/2012 funded by the Portuguese Foundation for Science and Technology. The authors would like to thank the collaborators of the November campaign: A. Rosa; A. Portugal; A. Silva; C. Correia, J. Cunha e L. Castilho.

Tsunami Wave Run-up on a Vertical Wall in Tidal Environment

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Didenkulova, Ira; Pelinovsky, Efim

2018-04-01

We solve analytically a nonlinear problem of shallow water theory for the tsunami wave run-up on a vertical wall in tidal environment. Shown that the tide can be considered static in the process of tsunami wave run-up. In this approximation, it is possible to obtain the exact solution for the run-up height as a function of the incident wave height. This allows us to investigate the tide influence on the run-up characteristics.

A Predictive Model for Submarine Canyon Type Based on the Relative Influence of Rivers, Waves and Tides.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Sumner, E.; Paull, C. K.

2017-12-01

In recent years progress has been achieved in directly measuring turbidity currents in submarine canyons and channels. It is useful to consider how representative these observations are of the diversity that potentially exists in the dynamics of turbidity currents among different canyons and channels. Firstly, we integrate sediment core, bathymetric and (in a limited number of cases) direct observations of turbidity current dynamics from 20 submarine canyons on the northern California Margin. We use this dataset to construct a diagram that explains canyon type, and thus turbidity current characteristics (grain-size carried, flow power, relative frequency of flows), based on the relative influence of rivers, waves and tides at the canyon head. This diagram enables prediction of canyon type and thus processes using three easily measurable characteristics: (i) distance of the canyon head from the shoreline; (ii) distance of the canyon head from the nearest river mouth; and (iii) local shelf width. Secondly, we test and refine the diagram using published data on submarine canyons from around the world. We also discuss the influence of outsized events such as earthquakes on submarine canyons. Finally, we demonstrate the location within the diagram of current monitoring studies and thus suggest where it might be fruitful to focus future monitoring efforts.

Beach-cusp formation

USGS Publications Warehouse

Sallenger, A.H.

1979-01-01

Field experiments on beach-cusp formation were undertaken to document how the cuspate form develops and to test the edge-wave hypothesis on the uniform spacing of cusps. These involved observations of cusps forming from an initially plane foreshore. The cuspate form was observed to be a product of swash modification of an intertidal beach ridge as follows. A ridge, cut by a series of channels quasi-equally spaced along its length, was deposited onto the lower foreshore. The ridge migrated shoreward with flood tide, while the longshore positions of the channels remained fixed. On ebb tide, changes in swash circulation over the ridge allowed the upwash to flow shoreward through the channels and the channel mouths were eroded progressively wider until adjacent mouths met, effecting a cuspate shape. Measured spacings of cusps, ranging in size from less than 1 m to more than 12 m, agree well with computed spacings due to either zero-mode subharmonic or zero-mode synchronous edge waves. Edge-wave-induced longshore variations in run up will cause water ponded behind a ridge to converge at points of low swash and flow seaward as relatively narrow currents eroding channels spaced at one edge-wave wavelength for synchronous edge waves or one half wavelength for subharmonic edge waves. The channels are subsequently modified into cusp troughs as described above.

An instability due to the nonlinear coupling of p-modes to g-modes: Implications for coalescing neutron star binaries

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Weinberg, Nevin N.; Arras, Phil; Burkart, Joshua, E-mail: nevin@mit.edu

2013-06-01

A weakly nonlinear fluid wave propagating within a star can be unstable to three-wave interactions. The resonant parametric instability is a well-known form of three-wave interaction in which a primary wave of frequency ω {sub a} excites a pair of secondary waves of frequency ω {sub b} + ω {sub c} ≅ ω {sub a}. Here we consider a nonresonant form of three-wave interaction in which a low-frequency primary wave excites a high-frequency p-mode and a low-frequency g-mode such that ω {sub b} + ω {sub c} >> ω {sub a}. We show that a p-mode can couple so stronglymore » to a g-mode of similar radial wavelength that this type of nonresonant interaction is unstable even if the primary wave amplitude is small. As an application, we analyze the stability of the tide in coalescing neutron star binaries to p-g mode coupling. We find that the equilibrium tide and dynamical tide are both p-g unstable at gravitational wave frequencies f {sub gw} ≳ 20 Hz and drive short wavelength p-g mode pairs to significant energies on very short timescales (much less than the orbital decay time due to gravitational radiation). Resonant parametric coupling to the tide is, by contrast, either stable or drives modes at a much smaller rate. We do not solve for the saturation of the p-g instability and therefore we cannot say precisely how it influences the evolution of neutron star binaries. However, we show that if even a single daughter mode saturates near its wave breaking amplitude, the p-g instability of the equilibrium tide will (1) induce significant orbital phase errors (Δφ ≳ 1 radian) that accumulate primarily at low frequencies (f {sub gw} ≲ 50 Hz) and (2) heat the neutron star core to a temperature of T ∼ 10{sup 10} K. Since there are at least ∼100 unstable p-g daughter pairs, Δφ and T are potentially much larger than these values. Tides might therefore significantly influence the gravitational wave signal and electromagnetic emission from coalescing neutron star binaries at much larger orbital separations than previously thought.« less

Anticipated Observation of Waves and Tides by the GOLD Mission Using a GCM and GLOW model

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Greer, K.; Solomon, S. C.; Rusch, D. W.

2017-12-01

One of the major scientific objectives of the GOLD mission is to address the significance of atmospheric waves and tides propagating from below on the thermospheric temperature structure. Here we examine the modes of tides and spectrum of waves that will be observed by GOLD in geostationary orbit. The GOLD instrument is an imaging spectrograph that will measure the Earth's emissions from 132 to 162 nm. These measurements will be used to image thermospheric temperature and composition near 160 km on the dayside disk at half-hour time scales. TIE-GCM is used to produce a realistic model atmosphere, where different wave and tidal components can be easily extracted, and GLobal AirglOW (GLOW) model produces the emissions in the spectral bands observed by GOLD.

Short-term variability in the ionosphere due to the nonlinear interaction between the 6 day wave and migrating tides

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gan, Quan; Oberheide, Jens; Yue, Jia; Wang, Wenbin

2017-08-01

Using the thermosphere-ionosphere-mesosphere electrodynamics general circulation model simulations, we investigate the short-term ionospheric variability due to the child waves and altered tides produced by the nonlinear interaction between the 6 day wave and migrating tides. Via the Fourier spectral diagnostics and least squares fittings, the [21 h, W2] and [13 h, W1] child waves, generated by the interaction of the 6 day wave with the DW1 and SW2, respectively, are found to play the leading roles on the subdiurnal variability (e.g., ±10 m/s in the ion drift and 50% in the NmF2) in the F region vertical ion drift changes through the dynamo modulation induced by the low-latitude zonal wind and the meridional wind at higher latitudes. The relatively minor contribution of the [11 h, W3] child wave is explicit as well. Although the [29 h, W0] child wave has the largest magnitude in the E region, its effect is totally absent in the vertical ion drift due to the zonally uniform structure. But the [29 h, W0] child wave shows up in the NmF2. It is found that the NmF2 short-term variability is attributed to the wave modulations on both E region dynamo and in situ F region composition. Also, the altered migrating tides due to the interaction will not contribute to the ionospheric changes significantly.

Nonlinear Tides in Close Binary Systems

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Weinberg, Nevin N.; Arras, Phil; Quataert, Eliot; Burkart, Josh

2012-06-01

We study the excitation and damping of tides in close binary systems, accounting for the leading-order nonlinear corrections to linear tidal theory. These nonlinear corrections include two distinct physical effects: three-mode nonlinear interactions, i.e., the redistribution of energy among stellar modes of oscillation, and nonlinear excitation of stellar normal modes by the time-varying gravitational potential of the companion. This paper, the first in a series, presents the formalism for studying nonlinear tides and studies the nonlinear stability of the linear tidal flow. Although the formalism we present is applicable to binaries containing stars, planets, and/or compact objects, we focus on non-rotating solar-type stars with stellar or planetary companions. Our primary results include the following: (1) The linear tidal solution almost universally used in studies of binary evolution is unstable over much of the parameter space in which it is employed. More specifically, resonantly excited internal gravity waves in solar-type stars are nonlinearly unstable to parametric resonance for companion masses M' >~ 10-100 M ⊕ at orbital periods P ≈ 1-10 days. The nearly static "equilibrium" tidal distortion is, however, stable to parametric resonance except for solar binaries with P <~ 2-5 days. (2) For companion masses larger than a few Jupiter masses, the dynamical tide causes short length scale waves to grow so rapidly that they must be treated as traveling waves, rather than standing waves. (3) We show that the global three-wave treatment of parametric instability typically used in the astrophysics literature does not yield the fastest-growing daughter modes or instability threshold in many cases. We find a form of parametric instability in which a single parent wave excites a very large number of daughter waves (N ≈ 103[P/10 days] for a solar-type star) and drives them as a single coherent unit with growth rates that are a factor of ≈N faster than the standard three-wave parametric instability. These are local instabilities viewed through the lens of global analysis; the coherent global growth rate follows local rates in the regions where the shear is strongest. In solar-type stars, the dynamical tide is unstable to this collective version of the parametric instability for even sub-Jupiter companion masses with P <~ a month. (4) Independent of the parametric instability, the dynamical and equilibrium tides excite a wide range of stellar p-modes and g-modes by nonlinear inhomogeneous forcing; this coupling appears particularly efficient at draining energy out of the dynamical tide and may be more important than either wave breaking or parametric resonance at determining the nonlinear dissipation of the dynamical tide.

The VIMS CBOS Observing System Buoy, an Initial Scientific Analysis

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Brasseur, L. H.; Brubaker, J. M.; Friedrichs, C. T.; Wright, L. D.

2004-12-01

The Virginia Institute of Marine Science (VIMS) has recently deployed a data buoy at Gloucester Point, York River, Virginia as part of the Chesapeake Bay Observing System (CBOS). The data streams collected by the buoy and its associated sensors are wind speed and direction, incoming solar radiation, air temperature, water temperature, salinity, turbidity, fluorescence, and dissolved oxygen. In addition, water velocities throughout the water column are recorded every 5 minutes and wave statistics including directional wave spectra are calculated every hour from an upward looking RD Instruments Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) in 8 meters of water in conjunction with the data buoy. All data are collected in real time and are available to scientists with a 15 minute to 1 hour time lag. These data are used in conjunction with other long tem data sets in the York River and lower Chesapeake Bay such as the Chesapeake Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve (CBNERR) sites' water quality data in the York River and USGS stream flow data to investigate several questions of scientific interest. One of these questions is the observed reverse salinity gradient in the York River during spring flood tides. It was previously thought that this was caused by a temporal mismatch in the phase of flood tide between the lower Chesapeake Bay and the mouth of the York River subestuary only during spring tides when the currents are strongest and the tidal range is large. In 2004, however, this effect can be seen during both spring and neap tides on several occasions in the spring and summer. This phenomenon and others are evaluated in the context of the VIMS observing system buoy and the initial data collected from the buoy are also evaluated in terms of instrument accuracy, ease of data retrieval, and possible uses for this information.

Observations and Modeling of Thermal Structure in the Lower Atmosphere and the Upward Propagation of Tides into the Thermosphere

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Wilson, R. J.; Kahre, M.

2017-01-01

Thermal tides are the atmospheric response to diurnally varying thermal forcing resulting from radiative and convective heat transfer from the surface and from aerosol and gaseous heating within the atmosphere. Tides include sun-synchronous (migrating) waves driven in response to solar heating and additional non-migrating waves resulting from longitudinal variations in the distributions of topography, dust aerosol and water ice clouds. The systematic spatial mapping of temperature over 5 Mars years by the Mars Climate Sounder (MCS) has yielded a well-defined climatology of seasonally-varying temperature structures in the lower atmosphere, from 5 to 80 km. Tide theory and Mars global circulation model (MGCM) simulations are a fruitful framework for relating temperature observations to thermal forcing by aerosol fields [1]. The analysis of density and temperature fields derived from MAVEN IUVS and NGIMS observations have revealed the presence of predominantly zonal wave 2 and 3 features at altitudes of 100-170 km that are almost certainly non-migrating tides propagating upward from the lower atmosphere [2,3]. In this presentation we will use the MCS climatology and MGCM simulations to relate the density variations seen by MAVEN with the seasonally varying tide activity in the lower atmosphere. Large amplitude perturbations in density are most sensitive to the tide components with the longest vertical wavelengths in temperature, which are well resolved in MCS observations.

Tidal Effect in Small-Scale Sound Propagation Experiment

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kamimura, Seiji; Ogasawara, Hanako; Mori, Kazuyoshi; Nakamura, Toshiaki

2012-07-01

A sound propagation experiment in very shallow water was conducted at Hashirimizu port in 2009. We transmitted 5 kHz sinusoidal waves with M-sequence modulation. As a result, we found that the travel time concentrated in two time frames. When comparing the travel time with the tide level, the travel time was dependent on the tide level. In terms of the wave patterns, most of the wave patterns have two peaks. As the tide level changed, the biggest peak switched within two peaks. To discuss this, numerical simulation by finite difference time domain (FDTD) method was carried out. The result agreed with the experimental result. Finally, we changed the material of the quay wall in the FDTD simulation and concluded that the first peak is a multireflected combination wave and the effect of its reflected wave at a quay wall has superiority in the second peak.

Intraseasonal variability and tides in Makassar Strait

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Susanto, R. Dwi; Gordon, Arnold L.; Sprintall, Janet; Herunadi, Bambang

2000-05-01

Intraseasonal variability and tides along the Makassar Strait, the major route of Indonesian throughflow, are investigated using spectral and time-frequency analyses which are applied to sea level, wind and mooring data. Semidiurnal and diurnal tides are dominant features, with higher (lower) semidiurnal (diurnal) energy in the north compared to the south. Sea levels and mooring data display intraseasonal variability which are probably a response to remotely forced Kelvin waves from the Indian Ocean through Lombok Strait and to Rossby waves from the Pacific Ocean. Sea levels in Tarakan and Balikpapan and Makassar mooring velocities reveal intraseasonal features with periods of 48-62 days associated with Rossby waves from the Sulawesi Sea. Kelvin wave features with periods of 67-100 days are seen in Bali (Lombok Strait), at the mooring sites and in Balikpapan, however, they are not seen in Tarakan, which implies that these waves diminish after passing through the Makassar Strait.

Evidence for infragravity wave-tide resonance in deep oceans.

PubMed

Sugioka, Hiroko; Fukao, Yoshio; Kanazawa, Toshihiko

2010-10-05

Ocean tides are the oscillatory motions of seawater forced by the gravitational attraction of the Moon and Sun with periods of a half to a day and wavelengths of the semi-Pacific to Pacific scale. Ocean infragravity (IG) waves are sea-surface gravity waves with periods of several minutes and wavelengths of several dozen kilometres. Here we report the first evidence of the resonance between these two ubiquitous phenomena, mutually very different in period and wavelength, in deep oceans. The evidence comes from long-term, large-scale observations with arrays of broadband ocean-bottom seismometers located at depths of more than 4,000 m in the Pacific Ocean. This observational evidence is substantiated by a theoretical argument that IG waves and the tide can resonantly couple and that such coupling occurs over unexpectedly wide areas of the Pacific Ocean. Through this resonant coupling, some of ocean tidal energy is transferred in deep oceans to IG wave energy.

Validating high-resolution California coastal flood modeling with Uninhabited Aerial Vehicle Synthetic Aperture Radar (UAVSAR)

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

O'Neill, A.

2015-12-01

The Coastal Storm Modeling System (CoSMoS) is a numerical modeling scheme used to predict coastal flooding due to sea level rise and storms influenced by climate change, currently in use in central California and in development for Southern California (Pt. Conception to the Mexican border). Using a framework of circulation, wave, analytical, and Bayesian models at different geographic scales, high-resolution results are translated as relevant hazards projections at the local scale that include flooding, wave heights, coastal erosion, shoreline change, and cliff failures. Ready access to accurate, high-resolution coastal flooding data is critical for further validation and refinement of CoSMoS and improved coastal hazard projections. High-resolution Uninhabited Aerial Vehicle Synthetic Aperture Radar (UAVSAR) provides an exceptional data source as appropriately-timed flights during extreme tides or storms provide a geographically-extensive method for determining areas of inundation and flooding extent along expanses of complex and varying coastline. Landward flood extents are numerically identified via edge-detection in imagery from single flights, and can also be ascertained via change detection using additional flights and imagery collected during average wave/tide conditions. The extracted flooding positions are compared against CoSMoS results for similar tide, water level, and storm-intensity conditions, allowing for robust testing and validation of CoSMoS and providing essential feedback for supporting regional and local model improvement.

Polar Motion Constraints on Models of the Fortnightly Tide

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Ray, Richard D.; Egbert, G. D.; Smith, David E. (Technical Monitor)

2002-01-01

Estimates of the near-fortnightly Mf ocean tide from Topex/Poseidon satellite altimetry and from numerical solutions to the shallow water equations agree reasonably well, at least in their basin-scale features. For example, both show that the Pacific Ocean tide lags the Atlantic tide by roughly 30 degrees. There are hints of finer scale agreements in the elevation fields, but noise levels are high. In contrast, estimates of Mf currents are only weakly constrained by the TP data, because high-wavenumber Rossby waves (with intense currents) are associated with relatively small perturbations in surface elevation. As a result, a wide range of Mf current fields are consistent with both the TP data and the hydrodynamic equations within a priori plausible misfit bounds. We find that a useful constraint on the Mf currents is provided by independent estimates of the Earth's polar motion. At the Mf period polar motion shows a weak signal (both prograde and retrograde) which must be almost entirely caused by the ocean tide. We have estimated this signal from the SPACE2000 time series, after applying a broad-band correction for atmospheric angular momentum. Although the polar motion estimates have relatively large uncertainties, they are sufficiently precise to fix optimum data weights in a global ocean inverse model of Mf. These weights control the tradeoff between fitting a prior hydrodynamic model of Mf and fitting the relatively noisy T/P measurements of Mf. The predicted polar motion from the final inverse model agrees remarkably well with the Mf polar motion observations. The preferred model is also consistent with noise levels suggested by island gauges, and it is marginally consistent with differences observed by subsetting the altimetry (to the small extent that this is possible). In turn, this new model of the Mf ocean tide allows the ocean component to be removed from Mf estimates of length of day, thus yielding estimates of complex Love numbers less contaminated by oceanic effects than has hitherto been possible.

Uncertainties in shoreline position analysis: the role of run-up and tide in a gentle slope beach

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Manno, Giorgio; Lo Re, Carlo; Ciraolo, Giuseppe

2017-09-01

In recent decades in the Mediterranean Sea, high anthropic pressure from increasing economic and touristic development has affected several coastal areas. Today the erosion phenomena threaten human activities and existing structures, and interdisciplinary studies are needed to better understand actual coastal dynamics. Beach evolution analysis can be conducted using GIS methodologies, such as the well-known Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS), in which error assessment based on shoreline positioning plays a significant role. In this study, a new approach is proposed to estimate the positioning errors due to tide and wave run-up influence. To improve the assessment of the wave run-up uncertainty, a spectral numerical model was used to propagate waves from deep to intermediate water and a Boussinesq-type model for intermediate water up to the swash zone. Tide effects on the uncertainty of shoreline position were evaluated using data collected by a nearby tide gauge. The proposed methodology was applied to an unprotected, dissipative Sicilian beach far from harbors and subjected to intense human activities over the last 20 years. The results show wave run-up and tide errors ranging from 0.12 to 4.5 m and from 1.20 to 1.39 m, respectively.

Gravity waves, Tides and Planetary wave characteristics revealed by network of MLT radars over Indian region

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Venkat Ratnam, Madineni; Karanam, Kishore Kumar; Sunkara, Eswaraiah; Vijaya Bhaskara Rao, S.; Subrahmanyam, K. V.; Ramanjaneyulu, L.

2016-07-01

Mesosphere and Lower Thermosphere (MLT) mean winds, gravity waves, tidal and planetary wave characteristics are investigated using two years (2013-2015) of advanced meteor radar installed at Tirupathi (13.63oN, 79.4oE), India. The observations reveal the presence of high frequency gravity waves (30-120 minutes), atmospheric tides (diurnal, semi-diurnal and terr-diurnal) along with long period oscillations in both zonal and meridional winds. Background mean zonal winds show clear semi-annual oscillation in the mesosphere, whereas meridional winds are characterized by annual oscillation as expected. Diurnal tide amplitudes are significantly larger (60-80 m/s) than semi-diurnal (10-20 m/s) and terr-diurnal (5-8 m/s) tides and larger in meridional than zonal winds. The measured meridional components are in good agreement with Global Scale Wave Model (GSWM-09) predictions than zonal up to ~90 km in all the seasons, except fall equinox. Diurnal tidal phase matches well than the amplitudes between observations and model predictions. However, no similarity is being found in the semi-diurnal tides between observations and model. The measurements are further compared with nearby Thumba meteor radar (8.5oN, 77oE) observations. Some differences do exist between the measurements from Tirupati and Thumba meteor radar and model outputs at greater heights and the possible reasons are discussed. SVU meteor radar observations clearly showed the dominance of well-known ultra-fast kelvin waves (3.5 days), 5-8 day, 16 day, 27 day, and 30-40 day oscillations. Due to higher meteor count extending up to 110 km, we could investigate the variability of these PWs and oscillations covering wider range (70-110 km) for the first time. Significant change above 100 km is noticed in all the above mentioned PW activity and oscillations. We also used ERA-Interim reanalysis data sets available at 0.125x0.125 degree grids for investigating the characteristics of these PW right from surface to 1 hPa. The presence of these waves and oscillations right from upper troposphere to lower thermosphere simultaneously is noticed. Though these waves are expected to have higher wave number (higher horizontal wave lengths) few important differences are noticed between Tirupati and Thumba, that are separated by only 500 km. The implication of these waves and oscillations on the background atmosphere and vice versa are discussed. Thus, installation of SVU meteor radar made good complementary observations that can be effectively used to investigate vertical and lateral coupling. Role of these tides in modulating the mesopause altitude is further investigated using the Sounding of the Atmosphere using Broadband Emission Radiometry (SABER) on-board Thermosphere Ionosphere Mesosphere Energetics Dynamics (TIMED) satellite. It is found that mesopause altitude is always close to 100 km and is strongly affected by gravity waves, tides and planetary waves.

Modelling the 2013 Typhoon Haiyan storm surge: Effect of waves, offshore winds, tide phase, and translation speed

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bilgera, P. H. T.

2015-12-01

Super Typhoon Haiyan, with wind speeds exceeding 300 km h-1 (160 knots) generated a storm surge in San Pedro Bay reaching heights of more than 6m in Tacloban City. Delft Dashboard (DDB), an open-source standalone Matlab based graphical user interface linked to the FLOW and WAVE modeling software of Deltares, was used to develop a coupled flow and wave storm surge model to understand the Typhoon Haiyan storm surge development and propagation. Various experiments were designed to determine the effect of waves, the occurrence of offshore winds prior to the surge, tidal phase, and typhoon translation speed on the surge height. Wave coupling decreased the surge height by about 0.5m probably due to energy dissipation from white capping, bottom friction, and depth-induced breaking. Offshore-directed winds before the arrival of the storm eye resulted to receding of the water level in San Pedro and Cancabato Bay, corroborated by eyewitness and tide gauge data. The experiment wherein the offshore winds were removed resulted to no water receding and a surge with a smaller and gentler surge front, pointing to the importance of the initial water level drawdown in contributing to the destructive power of the wave front. With regard to tides, the effect in Tacloban was actually neither linear nor additive to the surge, with higher surge coincident to low tides and lower surge coincident to high tides. Lastly, the model run with typhoon having a slower translation speed than Haiyan was found to generate higher surges.

Modelling the 2013 Typhoon Haiyan Storm Surge: Effect of Waves, Offshore Winds, Tide Phase, and Translation Speed

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bilgera, P. H. T.; Villanoy, C.; Cabrera, O.

2016-02-01

Super Typhoon Haiyan, with wind speeds exceeding 300 km h-1 (160 knots) generated a storm surge in San Pedro Bay reaching heights of more than 6m in Tacloban City. Delft Dashboard (DDB), an open-source standalone Matlab based graphical user interface linked to the FLOW and WAVE modeling software of Deltares, was used to develop a coupled flow and wave storm surge model to understand the Typhoon Haiyan storm surge development and propagation. Various experiments were designed to determine the effect of waves, the occurrence of offshore winds prior to the surge, tidal phase, and typhoon translation speed on the surge height. Wave coupling decreased the surge height by about 0.5m probably due to energy dissipation from white capping, bottom friction, and depth-induced breaking. Offshore-directed winds before the arrival of the storm eye resulted to receding of the water level in San Pedro and Cancabato Bay, corroborated by eyewitness and tide gauge data. The experiment wherein the offshore winds were removed resulted to no water receding and a surge with a smaller and gentler surge front, pointing to the importance of the initial water level drawdown in contributing to the destructive power of the wave front. With regard to tides, the effect in Tacloban was actually neither linear nor additive to the surge, with higher surge coincident to low tides and lower surge coincident to high tides. Lastly, the model run with typhoon having a slower translation speed than Haiyan was found to generate higher surges.

Internal waves and modern and ancient hiatuses in pelagic caps of Pacific guyots and seamounts

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Mitchell, Neil; Simmons, Harper; Lear, Carrie

2013-04-01

Locations of recent non-deposition and ancient hiatuses in the pelagic caps of guyots and seamounts are compared with paleotemperature and physiographic information to speculate on the character of internal tidal waves in the upper Pacific Ocean through the Cenozoic. Internal tidal waves are generated where the ocean barotropic tide passes over the Hawaiian and other major ridges in the Pacific basin. Drill core and geophysical evidence for sediment accumulation, non-deposition or erosion are used to classify broadly sites as either accumulating or eroding/non-depositing in the recent geological past. When these classified sites are compared against results of a numerical model of the internal tide field (Simmons, Ocean Mod. 2008), the sites accumulating particles over the past few million years are all found to lie away from beams of the modeled internal tide, while those that have not been accumulating are in areas of high internal wave energy. Given the correspondence to modern internal wave conditions, we examine whether internal tides can explain ancient hiatuses at the drill sites. For example, Late Cenozoic pelagic caps on guyots among the Marshall Islands contain two hiatuses of broadly similar age, but the dates of the first pelagic sediments deposited following each hiatus do not correlate between guyots, suggesting that they originate not from universal factors (e.g., water chemistry) but local, probably physical factors, such as internal tides. We investigate how changing boundary conditions such as ocean temperature and basin physiography may have affected the geometry and vigour of internal tides through the Cenozoic. Changes in the geometry of ridges underlying the Solomon, Bonin and Marianas Island chains caused by plate tectonics and subsidence may be responsible for sediment hiatuses at these far-field guyot sites.

Internal waves and modern and ancient hiatuses in pelagic caps of Pacific guyots and seamounts

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Mitchell, N. C.; Simmons, H. L.; Lear, C. H.

2012-12-01

Locations of recent non-deposition and ancient hiatuses in the pelagic caps of guyots and seamounts are compared with paleotemperature and physiographic information to speculate on the character of internal tidal waves in the upper Pacific Ocean through the Cenozoic. Internal tidal waves are generated where the ocean barotopic tide passes over the Hawaiian and other major ridges in the Pacific basin. Drill core and geophysical evidence for sediment accumulation, non-deposition or erosion are used to classify broadly sites as either accumulating or eroding/non-depositing in the recent geological past. When these classified sites are compared against results of a numerical model of the internal tide field (Simmons, Ocean Mod. 2008), the sites accumulating particles over the past few million years are all found to lie away from beams of the modeled internal tide, while those that have not been accumulating are in areas of high internal wave energy. Given the correspondence to modern internal wave conditions, we examine whether internal tides can explain ancient hiatuses at the drill sites. For example, Late Cenozoic pelagic caps on guyots among the Marshall Islands contain two hiatuses of broadly similar age, but the dates of the first pelagic sediments deposited following each hiatus do not correlate between guyots, suggesting that they originate not from universal factors (e.g., water chemistry) but local, probably physical factors, such as internal tides. We investigate how changing boundary conditions such as ocean temperature and basin physiography may have affected the geometry and vigour of internal tides through the Cenozoic. Changes in the geometry of ridges underlying the Solomon, Bonin and Marianas Island chains caused by plate tectonics and subsidence may be responsible for sediment hiatuses at these far-field guyot sites.

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Buddemeier, R.W.; Oberdorfer, J.A.

A wide variety of forces can produce head gradients that drive the flow and advective mixing of internal coral reef pore waters. Oscillatory gradients that produce mixing result from wave and tide action. Sustained gradients result from wave and tide-induced setup and ponding, from currents impinging on the reef structure, from groundwater heads, and from density differenced (temperature or salinity gradients). These gradients and the permeabilities and porosities of reef sediments are such that most macropore environments are dominated by advection rather than diffusion. The various driving forces must be analyzed to determine the individual and combined magnitudes of theirmore » effects on a specific reef pore-water system. Pore-water movement controls sediment diagenesis, the exchange of nutrients between sediments and benthos, and coastal/island groundwater resources. Because of the complexity of forcing functions, their interactions with specific local reef environments, experimental studies require careful incorporation of these considerations into their design and interpretation. 8 refs., 3 figs., 1 tab.« less

Shoaling of nonlinear internal waves in Massachusetts Bay

USGS Publications Warehouse

Scotti, A.; Beardsley, R.C.; Butman, B.; Pineda, J.

2008-01-01

The shoaling of the nonlinear internal tide in Massachusetts Bay is studied with a fully nonlinear and nonhydrostatic model. The results are compared with current and temperature observations obtained during the August 1998 Massachusetts Bay Internal Wave Experiment and observations from a shorter experiment which took place in September 2001. The model shows how the approaching nonlinear undular bore interacts strongly with a shoaling bottom, offshore of where KdV theory predicts polarity switching should occur. It is shown that the shoaling process is dominated by nonlinearity, and the model results are interpreted with the aid of a two-layer nonlinear but hydrostatic model. After interacting with the shoaling bottom, the undular bore emerges on the shallow shelf inshore of the 30-m isobath as a nonlinear internal tide with a range of possible shapes, all of which are found in the available observational record. Copyright 2008 by the American Geophysical Union.

Near-surface energy transfers from internal tide beams to smaller vertical scale motions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Chou, S.; Staquet, C.; Carter, G. S.; Luther, D. S.

2016-02-01

Mechanical energy capable of causing diapycnal mixing in the ocean is transferred to the internal wave field when barotropic tides pass over underwater topography and generate internal tides. The resulting internal tide energy is confined in vertically limited structures, or beams. As internal tide beams (ITBs) propagate through regions of non-uniform stratification in the upper ocean, wave energy can be scattered through multiple reflections and refractions, be vertically trapped, or transferred to non-tidal frequencies through different nonlinear processes. Various observations have shown that ITBs are no longer detectable in horizontal kinetic energy beyond the first surface reflection. Importantly, this implies that some of the internal tide energy no longer propagates in to the abyssal ocean and consequently will not be available to maintain the density stratification. Using the NHM, a nonlinear and nonhydrostatic model based on the MITgcm, simulations of an ITB propagating up to the sea surface are examined in order to quantify the transformation of ITB energy to other motions. We compare and contrast the transformations enabled by idealized, smoothly-varying stratification with transformations enabled by realistic stratification containing a broad-band vertical wavenumber spectrum of variations. Preliminary two-dimensional results show that scattering due to small-scale structure in realistic stratification profiles from Hawaii can lead to energy being vertically trapped near the surface. Idealized simulations of "locally" generated internal solitary waves are analyzed in terms of energy flux transfers from the ITB to solitary waves, higher harmonics, and mean flow. The amount of internal tide energy which propagates back down after near-surface reflection of the ITB in different environments is quantified.

Influence of internal waves on the dispersion and transport of inclined gravity currents

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hogg, C. A. R.; Pietrasz, V. B.; Ouellette, N. T.; Koseff, J. R.

2016-02-01

Brine discharge from desalination facilities presents environmental risks, particularly to benthic organisms. High concentrations of salt and chemical additives, which can be toxic to local ecosystems, are typically mitigated by dilution close to the source. Our laboratory experiments investigate how breaking internal tides can help to dilute gravity currents caused by desalination effluents and direct them away from the benthic layer. In laboratory experiments, internal waves at the pycnocline of an ambient stratification were directed towards a sloping shelf, down which ran a gravity current. The breaking internal waves were seen to increase the proportion of the fluid from the gravity current diverted away from the slope into an intrusion along the pycnocline. In a parametric study, increasing the amplitude of the internal wave was seen to increase the amount of dense fluid in the pycnocline intrusion. The amplitude required to divert the gravity current into the intrusion compares well with an analytical theory that equates the incident energy in the internal wave to the potential energy required to dilute the gravity current. These experimental results suggest that sites of breaking internal waves may be good sites for effluent disposal. Effluent diverted into the intrusion avoids the ecologically sensitive benthic layer.

Sea-level rise induced amplification of coastal protection design heights.

PubMed

Arns, Arne; Dangendorf, Sönke; Jensen, Jürgen; Talke, Stefan; Bender, Jens; Pattiaratchi, Charitha

2017-01-06

Coastal protection design heights typically consider the superimposed effects of tides, surges, waves, and relative sea-level rise (SLR), neglecting non-linear feedbacks between these forcing factors. Here, we use hydrodynamic modelling and multivariate statistics to show that shallow coastal areas are extremely sensitive to changing non-linear interactions between individual components caused by SLR. As sea-level increases, the depth-limitation of waves relaxes, resulting in waves with larger periods, greater amplitudes, and higher run-up; moreover, depth and frictional changes affect tide, surge, and wave characteristics, altering the relative importance of other risk factors. Consequently, sea-level driven changes in wave characteristics, and to a lesser extent, tides, amplify the resulting design heights by an average of 48-56%, relative to design changes caused by SLR alone. Since many of the world's most vulnerable coastlines are impacted by depth-limited waves, our results suggest that the overall influence of SLR may be greatly underestimated in many regions.

An Improved Ocean Observing System for Coastal Louisiana: WAVCIS (WAVE-CURRENT-SURGE Information System )

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zhang, X.; Stone, G. W.; Gibson, W. J.; Braud, D.

2005-05-01

WAVCIS is a regional ocean observing and forecasting system. It was designed to measure, process, forecast, and distribute oceanographic and meteorological information. WAVCIS was developed and is maintained by the Coastal Studies Institute at Louisiana State University. The in-situ observing stations are distributed along the central Louisiana and Mississippi coast. The forecast region covers the entire Gulf of Mexico with emphasis on offshore Louisiana. By using state-of-the-art instrumentation, WAVCIS measures directional waves, currents, temperature, water level, conductivity, turbidity, salinity, dissolved oxygen, chlorophyll, Meteorological parameters include wind speed and direction, air pressure and temperature visibility and humidity. Through satellite communication links, the measured data are transmitted to the WAVCIS laboratory. After processing, they are available to the public via the internet on a near real-time basis. WAVCIS also includes a forecasting capability. Waves, tides, currents, and winds are forecast daily for up to 80 hours in advance. There are a number of numerical wave and surge models that can be used for forecasts. WAM and SWAN are used for operational purposes to forecast sea state. Tides at each station are predicted based on the harmonic constants calculated from past in-situ observations at respective sites. Interpolated winds from the ETA model are used as input forcing for waves. Both in-situ and forecast information are available online to the users through WWW. Interactive GIS web mapping is implemented on the WAVCIS webpage to visualize the model output and in-situ observational data. WAVCIS data can be queried, retrieved, downloaded, and analyzed through the web page. Near real-time numerical model skill assessment can also be performed by using the data from in-situ observing stations.

Observations of sediment transport on the Amazon subaqueous delta

USGS Publications Warehouse

Sternberg, R.W.; Cacchione, D.A.; Paulson, B.; Kineke, G.C.; Drake, D.E.

1996-01-01

A 19-day time series of fluid, flow, and suspended-sediment characteristics in the benthic boundary layer is analyzed to identify major sedimentary processes active over the prodelta region of the Amazon subaqueous delta. Measurements were made by the benthic tripod GEOPROBE placed on the seabed in 65 m depth near the base of the deltaic foreset beds from 11 February to 3 March 1990, during the time of rising water and maximum sediment discharge of the Amazon River; and the observations included: hourly measurements of velocity and suspended-sediment concentration at four levels above the seabed; waves and tides; and seabed elevation. Results of the first 14-day period of the time series record indicate that sediment resuspension occurred as a result of tidal currents (91% of the time) and surface gravity waves (46% of the time). Observations of suspended sediment indicated that particle flux in this region is 0.4-2% of the flux measured on the adjacent topset deposits and is directed to the north and landward relative to the Brazilian coast (268??T). Fortnightly variability is strong, with particle fluxes during spring tides five times greater than during neap tides. On the 15th day of the data record, a rapid sedimentation event was documented in which 44 cm of sediment was deposited at the study site over a 14-h period. Evaluation of various mechanisms of mass sediment movement suggests that this event represents downslope migration of fluid muds from the upper foreset beds that were set in motion by boundary shear stresses generated by waves and currents. This transport mechanism appears to occur episodically and may represent a major source of sediment to the lower foreset-bottomset region of the subaqueous delta.

Airborne synthetic aperture radar tracking of internal waves in the Strait of Gibraltar

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Richez, Claude

As part of the International “Gibraltar Experiment”, we realized, on June 22 and 24, 1986, two surveys of the Strait of Gibraltar, on board an aircraft equipped with a Synthetic Aperture Radar. Our objective was to observe, at Spring tides, and during two twelve-hour tidal cycles, at 24 h interval, the generation of internal wave trains, linked to the hydraulic jump formed west of the sill during the westward phase of the tidal current, and their eastward propagation in the Strait. The speed of propagation of these waves and the effect of the diurnal component of the tide on their generation and propagation could then be determined. Our results suggest that two solitary waves of equal amplitude propagated eastwards in the strait on June 22 (the tidal coefficient being equal to 92), with a speed, relative to the ground, of 2.1 to 2.6 m s -1. 24 h later, during the second survey, on June 24 (tidal coefficient 90), we observed the propagation of a train of non-linear waves, the speed of the leading wave of which being about 1.9 ms -1. Our data show that other waves pass over the Camarinal Sill after the release of the bore, and “secondary” internal wave trains are shown to propagate eastwards from there. Although our SAR data show the appearance of waves west of the northern sill at about 4 h after High Water (HW), the mechanism leading to their generation is not clear. These waves could propagate eastwards, all along the strait, and/or northwestwards along the western Spanish coast. They could be responsible for the solitary-type events observed at the eastern entrance of the strait, at about 7 h after HW, by ZIEGENBEIN (1969, 1970). These events are noticeable in the hydrological parameters time series of ARMI and FARMER (1988) and in the high rate current data (2-min apart) from their April 1986 cruise. Besides these alongstrait waves, our SAR data show the existence of cross-strait waves, and give an idea of their wavelength and speed of propagation. Their presence leads to perturbations in the current, revealed by simultaneous current data, at the Camarinal Sill and north of Cape Cires.

A Permo-Carboniferous tide-storm interactive system: Talchir formation, Raniganj Basin, India

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bhattacharya, H. N.; Bhattacharya, Biplab

2006-08-01

Sandstone/siltstone-mudstone interbedded facies of the Permo-Carboniferous Talchir formation, Gondwana Supergroup, is exposed in the Raniganj Basin and records the activities of tidal currents in a terminoglacial, storm-influenced shallow marine setting. Tidal bundles of various types with pause plane drapes, evidence of time-velocity asymmetry and rare bidirectional current flow patterns are indicative of tidal activity. Chance preservation of such structures from storm reworking might have occurred due to dampening of storm waves on the low-gradient muddy substrate of the tidal flat. The tide-generated stratifications are draped by over-thickened muddy-siltstone with wavy/hummocky laminations. Increased suspended sediment concentrations following a storm yielded such thick mudstone drapes. Thin beds containing tidal structures indicate poor sediment supply in a blind tidal embayment.

Modeling the Diurnal Tides in the MLT Region with the Doppler Spread Parameterization of Gravity Waves

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Mayr, H. G.; Mengel, J. G.; Chan, K. L.; Trob, D.; Porter, H. C.; Einaudi, Franco (Technical Monitor)

2000-01-01

Special Session: SA03 The mesosphere/lower thermosphere region: Structure, dynamics, composition, and emission. Ground based and satellite observations in the upper mesosphere and lower thermosphere (MLT) reveal large seasonal variations in the horizontal wind fields of the diurnal and semidiurnal tides. To provide an understanding of the observations, we discuss results obtained with our Numerical Spectral Model (NMS) that incorporates the gravity wave Doppler Spread Parameterization (DSP) of Hines. Our model reproduces many of the salient features observed, and we discuss numerical experiments that delineate the important processes involved. Gravity wave momentum deposition and the seasonal variations in the tidal excitation contribute primarily to produce the large equinoctial amplitude maxima in the diurnal tide. Gravity wave induced variations in eddy viscosity, not accounted for in the model, have been shown by Akmaev to be important too. For the semidiurnal tide, with amplitude maximum observed during winter solstice, these processes also contribute, but filtering by the mean zonal circulation is more important. A deficiency of our model is that it cannot reproduce the observed seasonal variations in the phase of the semidiurnal tide, and numerical experiments are being carried out to diagnose the cause and to alleviate this problem. The dynamical components of the upper mesosphere are tightly coupled through non-linear processes and wave filtering, and this may constrain the model and require it to reproduce in detail the observed phenomenology.

Importance of Antecedent Beach and Surf-Zone Morphology to Wave Runup Predictions

DTIC Science & Technology

2016-10-01

position on the dune, the laser reflects well off of the water surface when foam is present (blue dots, Figure 1B). Maximum range of measurement...depends upon the amount of breaking and foam present in the surf-zone at any given time, but rarely exceeds 150 m for this laser scanner. Drawbacks to...determined by reverse-shoaling data from the FRF’s 11 m Acoustic Wave and Current (AWAC) profiler to deep water values. Local water levels (tide and surge

Intermittent large amplitude internal waves observed in Port Susan, Puget Sound

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Harris, J. C.; Decker, L.

2017-07-01

A previously unreported internal tidal bore, which evolves into solitary internal wave packets, was observed in Port Susan, Puget Sound, and the timing, speed, and amplitude of the waves were measured by CTD and visual observation. Acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) measurements were attempted, but unsuccessful. The waves appear to be generated with the ebb flow along the tidal flats of the Stillaguamish River, and the speed and width of the resulting waves can be predicted from second-order KdV theory. Their eventual dissipation may contribute significantly to surface mixing locally, particularly in comparison with the local dissipation due to the tides. Visually the waves appear in fair weather as a strong foam front, which is less visible the farther they propagate.

The quasi-6 day wave and its interactions with solar tides

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Forbes, Jeffrey M.; Zhang, Xiaoli

2017-04-01

Thermosphere Ionosphere Mesosphere Energetics and Dynamics/Sounding of the Atmosphere using Broadband Emission Radiometry (TIMED/SABER) temperature measurements between 20 and 110 km altitude and ±50° latitude during 2002-2015 are employed to reveal the climatological characteristics of the quasi-6 day wave (Q6DW) and evidence for secondary waves (SW) resulting from its nonlinear interactions with solar tides. The mean period is 6.14d with a standard deviation (σ) of 0.26d. Multiyear-mean maximum amplitudes (3-5 K, σ ˜ 4 K) occur within the mesosphere-lower thermosphere (MLT) region between 75 and 100 km during day of year (DOY) 60-120 and 180-300 in the Northern Hemisphere and DOY 0-110 and 200-300 in the Southern Hemisphere. Amplitudes approach 10 K in some individual years. At midlatitudes downward phase progression exists from 100 to 35 km with a mean vertical wavelength of about 70 km. Signatures of SW due to Q6DW-tide interactions appear at distinct space-based zonal wave numbers (ks) in temperature spectra constructed in the reference frame of the TIMED orbit. However, SW produced by several different tides can collapse onto the same (ks) value, rendering their relative contributions indistinguishable. Nevertheless, by determining the space-based wave amplitudes attached to these values of (ks), and demonstrating that they are a large fraction of the interacting wave amplitudes, we conclude that the aggregate contributions of the SW to the overall wave spectrum must be significant. Because the SW have periods, zonal wave numbers, and latitude-height structures different from those of the primary waves, they contribute additionally to the complexity of the wave spectrum. This complexity is communicated to the ionosphere through collisions or through the dynamo electric fields generated by the total wave spectrum.

Tide gauge observations of the Indian Ocean tsunami, December 26, 2004

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Merrifield, M. A.; Firing, Y. L.; Aarup, T.; Agricole, W.; Brundrit, G.; Chang-Seng, D.; Farre, R.; Kilonsky, B.; Knight, W.; Kong, L.; Magori, C.; Manurung, P.; McCreery, C.; Mitchell, W.; Pillay, S.; Schindele, F.; Shillington, F.; Testut, L.; Wijeratne, E. M. S.; Caldwell, P.; Jardin, J.; Nakahara, S.; Porter, F.-Y.; Turetsky, N.

2005-05-01

The magnitude 9.0 earthquake centered off the west coast of northern Sumatra (3.307°N, 95.947°E) on December 26, 2004 at 00:59 UTC (United States Geological Survey (USGS) (2005), USGS Earthquake Hazards Program-Latest Earthquakes, Earthquake Hazards Program, http://earthquake.usgs.gov/eqinthenews/2004/usslav/, 2005) generated a series of tsunami waves that devastated coastal areas throughout the Indian Ocean. Tide gauges operated on behalf of national and international organizations recorded the wave form at a number of island and continental locations. This report summarizes the tide gauge observations of the tsunami in the Indian Ocean (available as of January 2005) and provides a recommendation for the use of the basin-wide tide gauge network for future warnings.

On the coupled evolution of oceanic internal waves and quasi-geostrophic flow

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wagner, Gregory LeClaire

Oceanic motion outside thin boundary layers is primarily a mixture of quasi-geostrophic flow and internal waves with either near-inertial frequencies or the frequency of the semidiurnal lunar tide. This dissertation seeks a deeper understanding of waves and flow through reduced models that isolate their nonlinear and coupled evolution from the Boussinesq equations. Three physical-space models are developed: an equation that describes quasi-geostrophic evolution in an arbitrary and prescribed field of hydrostatic internal waves; a three-component model that couples quasi-geostrophic flow to both near-inertial waves and the near-inertial second harmonic; and a model for the slow evolution of hydrostatic internal tides in quasi-geostrophic flow of near-arbitrary scale. This slow internal tide equation opens the path to a coupled model for the energetic interaction of quasi-geostrophic flow and oceanic internal tides. Four results emerge. First, the wave-averaged quasi-geostrophic equation reveals that finite-amplitude waves give rise to a mean flow that advects quasi-geostrophic potential vorticity. Second is the definition of a new material invariant: Available Potential Vorticity, or APV. APV isolates the part of Ertel potential vorticity available for balanced-flow evolution in Eulerian frames and proves necessary in the separating waves and quasi-geostrophic flow. The third result, hashed out for near-inertial waves and quasi-geostrophic flow, is that wave-flow interaction leads to energy exchange even under conditions of weak nonlinearity. For storm-forced oceanic near-inertial waves the interaction often energizes waves at the expense of flow. We call this extraction of balanced quasi-geostrophic energy 'stimulated generation' since it requires externally-forced rather than spontaneously-generated waves. The fourth result is that quasi-geostrophic flow can encourage or 'catalyze' a nonlinear interaction between a near-inertial wave field and its second harmonic that transfers energy to the small near-inertial vertical scales of wave breaking and mixing.

Pressure-gradient-driven nearshore circulation on a beach influenced by a large inlet-tidal shoal system

USGS Publications Warehouse

Shi, F.; Hanes, D.M.; Kirby, J.T.; Erikson, L.; Barnard, P.; Eshleman, J.

2011-01-01

The nearshore circulation induced by a focused pattern of surface gravity waves is studied at a beach adjacent to a major inlet with a large ebb tidal shoal. Using a coupled wave and wave-averaged nearshore circulation model, it is found that the nearshore circulation is significantly affected by the heterogeneous wave patterns caused by wave refraction over the ebb tidal shoal. The model is used to predict waves and currents during field experiments conducted near the mouth of San Francisco Bay and nearby Ocean Beach. The field measurements indicate strong spatial variations in current magnitude and direction and in wave height and direction along Ocean Beach and across the ebb tidal shoal. Numerical simulations suggest that wave refraction over the ebb tidal shoal causes wave focusing toward a narrow region at Ocean Beach. Due to the resulting spatial variation in nearshore wave height, wave-induced setup exhibits a strong alongshore nonuniformity, resulting in a dramatic change in the pressure field compared to a simulation with only tidal forcing. The analysis of momentum balances inside the surf zone shows that, under wave conditions with intensive wave focusing, the alongshore pressure gradient associated with alongshore nonuniform wave setup can be a dominant force driving circulation, inducing heterogeneous alongshore currents. Pressure-gradient- forced alongshore currents can exhibit flow reversals and flow convergence or divergence, in contrast to the uniform alongshore currents typically caused by tides or homogeneous waves.

An analytical study of M2 tidal waves in the Taiwan Strait using an extended Taylor method

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wu, Di; Fang, Guohong; Cui, Xinmei; Teng, Fei

2018-02-01

The tides in the Taiwan Strait (TS) feature large semidiurnal lunar (M2) amplitudes. An extended Taylor method is employed in this study to provide an analytical model for the M2 tide in the TS. The strait is idealized as a rectangular basin with a uniform depth, and the Coriolis force and bottom friction are retained in the governing equations. The observed tides at the northern and southern openings are used as open boundary conditions. The obtained analytical solution, which consists of a stronger southward propagating Kelvin wave, a weaker northward propagating Kelvin wave, and two families of Poincaré modes trapped at the northern and southern openings, agrees well with the observations in the strait. The superposition of two Kelvin waves basically represents the observed tidal pattern, including an anti-nodal band in the central strait, and the cross-strait asymmetry (greater amplitudes in the west and smaller in the east) of the anti-nodal band. Inclusion of Poincaré modes further improves the model result in that the cross-strait asymmetry can be better reproduced. To explore the formation mechanism of the northward propagating wave in the TS, three experiments are carried out, including the deep basin south of the strait. The results show that the southward incident wave is reflected to form a northward wave by the abruptly deepened topography south of the strait, but the reflected wave is slightly weaker than the northward wave obtained from the above analytical solution, in which the southern open boundary condition is specified with observations. Inclusion of the forcing at the Luzon Strait strengthens the northward Kelvin wave in the TS, and the forcing is thus of some (but lesser) importance to the M2 tide in the TS.

Wave-current interaction in Willapa Bay

USGS Publications Warehouse

Olabarrieta, Maitane; Warner, John C.; Kumar, Nirnimesh

2011-01-01

This paper describes the importance of wave-current interaction in an inlet-estuary system. The three-dimensional, fully coupled, Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system was applied in Willapa Bay (Washington State) from 22 to 29 October 1998 that included a large storm event. To represent the interaction between waves and currents, the vortex-force method was used. Model results were compared with water elevations, currents, and wave measurements obtained by the U.S. Army Corp of Engineers. In general, a good agreement between field data and computed results was achieved, although some discrepancies were also observed in regard to wave peak directions in the most upstream station. Several numerical experiments that considered different forcing terms were run in order to identify the effects of each wind, tide, and wave-current interaction process. Comparison of the horizontal momentum balances results identified that wave-breaking-induced acceleration is one of the leading terms in the inlet area. The enhancement of the apparent bed roughness caused by waves also affected the values and distribution of the bottom shear stress. The pressure gradient showed significant changes with respect to the pure tidal case. During storm conditions the momentum balance in the inlet shares the characteristics of tidal-dominated and wave-dominated surf zone environments. The changes in the momentum balance caused by waves were manifested both in water level and current variations. The most relevant effect on hydrodynamics was a wave-induced setup in the inner part of the estuary.

The effect of changing topography on coastal tides and storm surge: a historical perspective

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Talke, Stefan; Jay, David; Helaire, Lumas; Familkhalili, Ramin

2016-11-01

Over decadal and century time scales, the topography of coastal harbors changes due to natural and anthropogenic factors. These changes alter the mass and momentum balances of incoming waves, producing measureable changes to tides and surge. Here we use recently recovered archival data, historic bathymetric charts, and numerical models to assess changes in multiple estuaries. In the Columbia River estuary, Ems estuary, and Cape Fear Estuary, channel deepening has increased the M2 tide between 10 to 100% since the 19th century, due to both reduced frictional effects and altered resonance. The bathymetric perturbations also affect the propagation of other long-period waves: in Wilmington (NC), the worst-case scenario CAT-5 storm surge is modeled to increase by 50% since 19th century conditions. Similarly, in New York harbor, the 10 year storm-tide level has outpaced sea-level rise by nearly 30 cm since 1850. In the Columbia River, reduced friction has decreased the river slope (reducing water levels), but also led to amplification of both tides and flood waves. Going forward, historical bathymetric change may provide a clue to the future effects of climate change and continued anthropogenic development. National Science Foundation; US Army Corp of Engineers.

Errors in Tsunami Source Estimation from Tide Gauges

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Arcas, D.

2012-12-01

Linearity of tsunami waves in deep water can be assessed as a comparison of flow speed, u to wave propagation speed √gh. In real tsunami scenarios this evaluation becomes impractical due to the absence of observational data of tsunami flow velocities in shallow water. Consequently the extent of validity of the linear regime in the ocean is unclear. Linearity is the fundamental assumption behind tsunami source inversion processes based on linear combinations of unit propagation runs from a deep water propagation database (Gica et al., 2008). The primary tsunami elevation data for such inversion is usually provided by National Oceanic and Atmospheric (NOAA) deep-water tsunami detection systems known as DART. The use of tide gauge data for such inversions is more controversial due to the uncertainty of wave linearity at the depth of the tide gauge site. This study demonstrates the inaccuracies incurred in source estimation using tide gauge data in conjunction with a linear combination procedure for tsunami source estimation.

The Blue Planet: Seas & Oceans. Young Discovery Library Series.

ERIC Educational Resources Information Center

de Beauregard, Diane Costa

This book is written for children ages 5 through 10. Part of a series designed to develop their curiosity, facinate them and educate them, this volume explores the physical and environmental characteristics of the world's oceans. Topics are: (1) human exploration; (2) the food chain; (3) coral reefs; (4) currents and tides; (5) waves; (6)…

Coastal Awareness: A Resource Guide for Teachers in Senior High Science. Preprint.

ERIC Educational Resources Information Center

Rasmussen, Frederick A.

The stated purpose of this resource guide is to entice teachers to explore ecological aspects of coastal awareness. Discussions describe different characteristics of the coast such as: (1) waves, currents, and tides; (2) sandy beaches; (3) rocky shores; (4) estuaries; and (5) marshes. These discussions present some of the physical processes that…

The Effects Of Tides And Waves On Water-Table Elevations In Coastal Zones

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Turner, Ian L.; Coates, Bruce P.; Acworth, R. Ian

1996-02-01

A resurgence of interest in the literature about coastal zones has highlighted the fact that ocean processes can have a significant influence on unconfined coastal aquifers, resulting in a net super-elevation of the water table at the land-ocean boundary to groundwater discharge. This theoretical and experimental notion appears to be less well recognized in the field of groundwater investigation, where it is more usual to assume that the coastal boundary is equivalent to mean sea level. Coastal over-height is due to the ability of a sloping beach face to `fill' (vertical infiltration) at a greater rate than it can `drain' (horizontal seepage). The results of a three-month monitoring of the groundwater profile within a narrow coastal aquifer at New South Wales, Australia, confirms the significance of tide and wave processes to groundwater elevation. The mean height of the water table on the upper beach face was about 1.2 m above mean sea level, rising to 2.0 m during a period of coincident spring tides, storm waves, and rainfall. This elevation was sufficient to temporarily reverse the direction of groundwater flow. Fourier analysis and cross-correlation are used to help distinguish the role of tides in maintaining groundwater super-elevation from the role of storm waves in further raising the coastal water table for periods of two to three days. The results of a simple numerical simulation demonstrate that estimated rates of groundwater discharge at the study site were halved when the effect of tides and waves was incorporated in the definition of the ocean boundary.

Wave Transformation over a Fringing Coral Reef and the Importance of Low-Frequency Waves and Offshore Water Levels to Runup and Island Overtopping

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Cheriton, O. M.; Storlazzi, C. D.; Rosenberger, K. J.

2016-02-01

Low-lying, reef-fringed islands are susceptible to sea-level rise and often subjected to overwash and flooding during large wave events. To quantify wave dynamics and wave-driven water levels on fringing coral reefs, wave gauges and a current meter were deployed for 5 months across two shore-normal transects on Roi-Namur, an atoll island in the Republic of the Marshall Islands. These observations captured two large wave events that had maximum wave heights greater than 6 m and peak periods of 16 s over the fore reef. The larger event coincided with a peak spring tide, leading to energetic, highly-skewed infragravity (0.04-0.004 Hz) and very low frequency (0.004-0.001 Hz) waves at the shoreline, which reached heights of 1.0 and 0.7 m, respectively. Water surface elevations, combined with wave runup, exceeded 3.7 m at the innermost reef flat adjacent to the toe of the beach, resulting in flooding of inland areas. This overwash occurred during a 3-hr time window that coincided with high tide and maximum low-frequency reef flat wave heights. The relatively low-relief characteristics of this narrow reef flat may further drive shoreline amplification of low-frequency waves due to resonance modes. These results demonstrate how the coupling of high offshore water levels with low-frequency reef flat wave energetics can lead to large impacts along atoll and fringing reef-lined shorelines, such as island overwash. These observations lend support to the hypothesis that predicted higher sea levels will lead to more frequent occurrences of both extreme shoreline runup and island overwash, threatening the sustainability of these islands.

Observations of wave transformation over a fringing coral reef and the importance of low-frequency waves and offshore water levels to runup, overwash, and coastal flooding

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Cheriton, Olivia M.; Storlazzi, Curt D.; Rosenberger, Kurt J.

2016-05-01

Many low-lying tropical islands are susceptible to sea level rise and often subjected to overwash and flooding during large wave events. To quantify wave dynamics and wave-driven water levels on fringing coral reefs, a 5 month deployment of wave gauges and a current meter was conducted across two shore-normal transects on Roi-Namur Island in the Republic of the Marshall Islands. These observations captured two large wave events that had waves with maximum heights greater than 6 m with peak periods of 16 s over the fore reef. The larger event coincided with a peak spring tide, leading to energetic, highly skewed infragravity (0.04-0.004 Hz) and very low frequency (0.004-0.001 Hz) waves at the shoreline, which reached heights of 1.0 and 0.7 m, respectively. Water surface elevations, combined with wave runup, reached 3.7 m above the reef bed at the innermost reef flat adjacent to the toe of the beach, resulting in flooding of inland areas. This overwash occurred during a 3 h time window that coincided with high tide and maximum low-frequency reef flat wave heights. The relatively low-relief characteristics of this narrow reef flat may further drive shoreline amplification of low-frequency waves due to resonance modes. These results (1) demonstrate how the coupling of high offshore water levels with low-frequency reef flat wave energetics can lead to large impacts along fringing reef-lined shorelines, such as island overwash, and (2) lend support to the hypothesis that predicted higher sea levels will lead to more frequent occurrences of these extreme events, negatively impacting coastal resources and infrastructure.

Observations of wave transformation over a fringing coral reef and the importance of low-frequency waves and offshore water levels to runup, overwash, and coastal flooding

USGS Publications Warehouse

Cheriton, Olivia; Storlazzi, Curt; Rosenberger, Kurt

2016-01-01

Many low-lying tropical islands are susceptible to sea level rise and often subjected to overwash and flooding during large wave events. To quantify wave dynamics and wave-driven water levels on fringing coral reefs, a 5 month deployment of wave gauges and a current meter was conducted across two shore-normal transects on Roi-Namur Island in the Republic of the Marshall Islands. These observations captured two large wave events that had waves with maximum heights greater than 6 m with peak periods of 16 s over the fore reef. The larger event coincided with a peak spring tide, leading to energetic, highly skewed infragravity (0.04–0.004 Hz) and very low frequency (0.004–0.001 Hz) waves at the shoreline, which reached heights of 1.0 and 0.7 m, respectively. Water surface elevations, combined with wave runup, reached 3.7 m above the reef bed at the innermost reef flat adjacent to the toe of the beach, resulting in flooding of inland areas. This overwash occurred during a 3 h time window that coincided with high tide and maximum low-frequency reef flat wave heights. The relatively low-relief characteristics of this narrow reef flat may further drive shoreline amplification of low-frequency waves due to resonance modes. These results (1) demonstrate how the coupling of high offshore water levels with low-frequency reef flat wave energetics can lead to large impacts along fringing reef-lined shorelines, such as island overwash, and (2) lend support to the hypothesis that predicted higher sea levels will lead to more frequent occurrences of these extreme events, negatively impacting coastal resources and infrastructure.

Refine of Regional Ocean Tide Model Using GPS Data

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wang, F.; Zhang, P.; Sun, Z.; Jiang, Z.; Zhang, Q.

2018-04-01

Due to lack of regional data constraints, all global ocean tide models are not accuracy enough in offshore areas around China, also the displacements predicted by different models are not consistency. The ocean tide loading effects have become a major source of error in the high precision GPS positioning. It is important for high precision GPS applications to build an appropriate regional ocean tide model. We first process the four offshore GPS tracking station's observation data which located in Guangdong province of China by using PPP aproach to get the time series. Then use the spectral inversion method to acquire eigenvalues of the Ocean Tidal Loading. We get the estimated value of not only 12hour period tide wave (M2, S2, N2, K2) but also 24hour period tide wave (O1, K1, P1, Q1) which has not been got in presious studies. The contrast test shows that GPS estimation value of M2, K1 is consistent with the result of five famous glocal ocean load tide models, but S2, N2, K2, O1, P1, Q1 is obviously larger.

Nonlinear Internal Tide Generation at the Luzon Strait: Integrating Laboratory Data with Numerics and Observations

DTIC Science & Technology

2008-09-30

Nonlinear Internal Tide Generation at the Luzon Strait: Integrating Laboratory Data with Numerics and...laboratory experimental techniques have greatly enhanced the ability to obtained detailed spatiotemporal data for internal waves in challenging regimes...a custom configured wave tank; and to integrate these results with data obtained from numerical simulations, theory and field studies. The principal

Temporal variability of tidal and gravity waves during a record long 10-day continuous lidar sounding

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Baumgarten, Kathrin; Gerding, Michael; Baumgarten, Gerd; Lübken, Franz-Josef

2018-01-01

Gravity waves (GWs) as well as solar tides are a key driving mechanism for the circulation in the Earth's atmosphere. The propagation of gravity waves is strongly affected by tidal waves as they modulate the mean background wind field and vice versa, which is not yet fully understood and not adequately implemented in many circulation models. The daylight-capable Rayleigh-Mie-Raman (RMR) lidar at Kühlungsborn (54° N, 12° E) typically provides temperature data to investigate both wave phenomena during one full day or several consecutive days in the middle atmosphere between 30 and 75 km altitude. Outstanding weather conditions in May 2016 allowed for an unprecedented 10-day continuous lidar measurement, which shows a large variability of gravity waves and tides on timescales of days. Using a one-dimensional spectral filtering technique, gravity and tidal waves are separated according to their specific periods or vertical wavelengths, and their temporal evolution is studied. During the measurement period a strong 24 h wave occurs only between 40 and 60 km and vanishes after a few days. The disappearance is related to an enhancement of gravity waves with periods of 4-8 h. Wind data provided by ECMWF are used to analyze the meteorological situation at our site. The local wind structure changes during the observation period, which leads to different propagation conditions for gravity waves in the last days of the measurement period and therefore a strong GW activity. The analysis indicates a further change in wave-wave interaction resulting in a minimum of the 24 h tide. The observed variability of tides and gravity waves on timescales of a few days clearly demonstrates the importance of continuous measurements with high temporal and spatial resolution to detect interaction phenomena, which can help to improve parametrization schemes of GWs in general circulation models.

Analysis of data characterizing tide and current fluxes in coastal basins

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Armenio, Elvira; De Serio, Francesca; Mossa, Michele

2017-07-01

Many coastal monitoring programmes have been carried out to investigate in situ hydrodynamic patterns and correlated physical processes, such as sediment transport or spreading of pollutants. The key point is the necessity to transform this growing amount of data provided by marine sensors into information for users. The present paper aims to outline that it is possible to recognize the recurring and typical hydrodynamic processes of a coastal basin, by conveniently processing some selected marine field data. The illustrated framework is made up of two steps. Firstly, a sequence of analysis with classic methods characterized by low computational cost was executed in both time and frequency domains on detailed field measurements of waves, tides, and currents. After this, some indicators of the hydrodynamic state of the basin were identified and evaluated. Namely, the assessment of the net flow through a connecting channel, the time delay of current peaks between upper and bottom layers, the ratio of peak ebb and peak flood currents and the tidal asymmetry factor exemplify results on the vertical structure of the flow, on the correlation between currents and tide and flood/ebb dominance. To demonstrate how this simple and generic framework could be applied, a case study is presented, referring to Mar Piccolo, a shallow water basin located in the inner part of the Ionian Sea (southern Italy).

TIDE TOOL: Open-Source Sea-Level Monitoring Software for Tsunami Warning Systems

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Weinstein, S. A.; Kong, L. S.; Becker, N. C.; Wang, D.

2012-12-01

A tsunami warning center (TWC) typically decides to issue a tsunami warning bulletin when initial estimates of earthquake source parameters suggest it may be capable of generating a tsunami. A TWC, however, relies on sea-level data to provide prima facie evidence for the existence or non-existence of destructive tsunami waves and to constrain tsunami wave height forecast models. In the aftermath of the 2004 Sumatra disaster, the International Tsunami Information Center asked the Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC) to develop a platform-independent, easy-to-use software package to give nascent TWCs the ability to process WMO Global Telecommunications System (GTS) sea-level messages and to analyze the resulting sea-level curves (marigrams). In response PTWC developed TIDE TOOL that has since steadily grown in sophistication to become PTWC's operational sea-level processing system. TIDE TOOL has two main parts: a decoder that reads GTS sea-level message logs, and a graphical user interface (GUI) written in the open-source platform-independent graphical toolkit scripting language Tcl/Tk. This GUI consists of dynamic map-based clients that allow the user to select and analyze a single station or groups of stations by displaying their marigams in strip-chart or screen-tiled forms. TIDE TOOL also includes detail maps of each station to show each station's geographical context and reverse tsunami travel time contours to each station. TIDE TOOL can also be coupled to the GEOWARE™ TTT program to plot tsunami travel times and to indicate the expected tsunami arrival time on the marigrams. Because sea-level messages are structured in a rich variety of formats TIDE TOOL includes a metadata file, COMP_META, that contains all of the information needed by TIDE TOOL to decode sea-level data as well as basic information such as the geographical coordinates of each station. TIDE TOOL can therefore continuously decode theses sea-level messages in real-time and display the time-series data in the GUI as well. This GUI also includes mouse-clickable functions such as zooming or expanding the time-series display, measuring tsunami signal characteristics (arrival time, wave period and amplitude, etc.), and removing the tide signal from the time-series data. De-tiding of the time series is necessary to obtain accurate measurements of tsunami wave parameters and to maintain accurate historical tsunami databases. With TIDE TOOL, de-tiding is accomplished with a set of tide harmonic coefficients routinely computed and updated at PTWC for many of the stations in PTWC's inventory (~570). PTWC also uses the decoded time series files (previous 3-5 days' worth) to compute on-the-fly tide coefficients. The latter is useful in cases where the station is new and a long-term stable set of tide coefficients are not available or cannot be easily obtained due to various non-astronomical effects. The international tsunami warning system is coordinated globally by the UNESCO IOC, and a number of countries in the Pacific and Indian Ocean, and Caribbean depend on Tide Tool to monitor tsunamis in real time.

Wave-current interactions in megatidal environment

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bennis, A. C.; Pascal, B. D. B.; Feddy, A.; Garnier, V.; Accenti, M.; Dumas, F.; Ardhuin, F.

2016-12-01

The strongest tidal current in western Europe (up to 12 knots) occurs in Raz Blanchard (Normandy, France). High winds occur over six months which generate energetic wave conditions with breaking waves, hence the name of `Blanchard'. However, few studies have been conducted on the wave effects on the tidal current at this location because of the lack of measurements. Studies are now required to aid the creation of tidal farms. For this purpose, the 3D fully-coupled model MARS-WW3 is used with three nested ranks which are forced at boundaries by wave spectra from HOMERE database (Boudière et al., 2013) and by sea level from the French Navy (SHOM). The model is tested against ADCP data of IRSN at three locations near Raz Blanchard. Time series of current velocity and of mean sea level are consistent with ADCP data. A rephasing by waves of the tidal current is observed in comparison with simulations without waves, which fits the ADCP data. A strong dependence of the tidal current on bottom roughness is shown as well as the necessity to take into account its spatial heterogeneity. The simulated mean sea level is close to the measured one while it was underestimated for high tide in simulations without wave effects. The vertical shape of the tidal current is especially modified near the surface by waves as expected. Depending on the tidal cycle and wave direction, acceleration or deceleration of the surface current due to waves is observed. Lastly, several hydrodynamical scenarios for Raz Blanchard are carried out for different tidal and wave conditions pending the HYD2M'17 data (ADCP, ADV, drifting wave buoys, HF and VHF and X-Band radars). First results show the impacts of refractive, shoaling and blocking effects on the flood and ebb currents.

Transient controls on estuarine SPM fluxes: case study in the Dee Estuary, UK.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Amoudry, Laurent; Williams, Megan; Todd, David

2017-04-01

Estuaries are a critical interface between land and coastal ocean across which freshwater, suspended particulate matter (SPM), and consequently terrestrial carbon, nutrients and anthropogenic contaminants are exchanged. Suspended particulate matter is closely linked to estuarine turbidity; it affects water quality and estuarine ecology; and it contributes to overall estuarine sediment budgets. However, predicting the response of estuarine ecosystems to climate change and human interventions remains difficult partly due to a lack of comprehensive understanding of SPM concentrations and fluxes across time scales from intratidal to seasonal and interannual variability. We investigate the dynamics of suspended sediment and suspended particulate matter in a hypertidal estuary with a maximum tidal range in excess of 10 m and tidal currents reaching over 1 m/s: the Dee Estuary. This estuary is located in northwest England and outflows in Liverpool Bay, itself in the eastern Irish Sea. The Dee Estuary is a funnel-shaped, coastal plain estuary, which is about 30 km long with a maximum width of 8.5 km at the mouth, and consists of mixed sediments. We focus on field observations, collected during several campaigns in the channels of the Dee Estuary from 2004 to 2009 using acoustic and optical instrumentation, which provide intratidal measurements of flow velocity and suspended sediment, and thus sediment fluxes, over approximately a month. Measurements in February-March 2008 highlight three distinct hydrodynamic regimes: a current dominant regime at neap tides (14-21 February); a combined wave-current regime at spring tides (21-29 February); and a wave dominant regime at neap tide (1-4 March). While analysis of tidal distortion and dominance predicts weak ebb dominant channels, the observations yield flood dominant sediment transport. The net sediment flux exhibits a two-layer structure - import near the bed, export near the surface - that is consistent with the residual circulations in the estuary. Wavelet analysis provides clear evidence that such influx of sediment in the estuary is alternatively the result of periodic stratification at neap tides and of tidal asymmetry in suspended sediment concentration at spring tides. Such transient processes will be important to determine and predict estuarine responses to short-lived perturbations. Further analysis of other field campaigns will enable to determine the persistence of these processes over seasonal and annual timescales.

The Massachusetts Bay internal wave experiment, August 1998: data report

USGS Publications Warehouse

Butman, Bradford; Alexander, P. Soupy; Anderson, Steven P.; Lightsom, Frances L.; Scotti, Alberto; Beardsley, Robert C.

2006-01-01

This data report presents oceanographic observations made in Massachusetts Bay (fig. 1) in August 1998 as part of the Massachusetts Bay Internal Wave Experiment (MBIWE98). MBIWE98 was carried out to characterize large-amplitude internal waves in Massachusetts Bay and to investigate the possible resuspension and transport of bottom sediments caused by these waves. This data report presents a description of the field program and instrumentation, an overview of the data through summary plots and statistics, and the time-series data in NetCDF format. The objective of this report is to make the data available in digital form and to provide summary plots and statistics to facilitate browsing of the data set. The existence of large-amplitude internal waves in Massachusetts Bay was first described by Halpern (1971). In summer when the water is stratified, packets of waves propagate westward into the bay on the flood (westward flowing) tide at about 0.5 m/s. The internal waves are observed in packets of 5-10 waves, have periods of 5-10 minutes and wavelengths of 200-400 m, and cause downward excursions of the thermocline of as much as 30 m. The waves are generated by interaction of the barotropic tide with Stellwagen Bank (Haury and others (1979). Several papers present analyses and interpretations of the data collected during the MBIWE98. Grosenbaugh and others (2002) report on the results of the horizontal array, Scotti and others (2005) describe a strategy for processing observations made by Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers (ADCPs) in the presence of short-wavelength internal waves, Butman and others (in press) describe the effect of these waves on sediment transport, and Scotti and others (in press) describe the energetics of the internal waves.

Modeling Tides, Planetary Waves, and Equatorial Oscillations in the MLT

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Mengel, J. G.; Mayr, H. G.; Drob, D. P.; Porter, H. S.; Bhartia, P. K. (Technical Monitor)

2001-01-01

Applying Hines Doppler Spread Parameterization for gravity waves (GW), our 3D model reproduces some essential features that characterize the observed seasonal variations of tides and planetary waves in the upper mesosphere. In 2D, our model also reproduces the large Semi-Annual Oscillation (SAO) and Quasi Biennial Oscillation (QBO) observed in this region at low latitudes. It is more challenging to describe these features combined in a more comprehensive self consistent model, and we give a progress report that outlines the difficulties and reports some success. In 3D, the GW's are partially absorbed by tides and planetary waves to amplify them. Thus the waves are less efficient in generating the QBO and SAO at equatorial latitudes. Some of this deficiency is compensated by the fact that the GW activity is observed to be enhanced at low latitudes. Increasing the GW source has the desired effect to boost the QBO, but the effect is confined primarily to the stratosphere. With increasing altitude, the meridional circulation becomes more important in redistributing the momentum deposited in the background flow by the GW's. Another factor involved is the altitude at which the GW's originate, which we had originally chosen to be the surface. Numerical experiments show that moving this source altitude to the top of the troposphere significantly increases the efficiency for generating the QBO without affecting much the tides and planetary waves in the model. Attention to the details in which the GW source comes into play thus appears to be of critical importance in modeling the phenomenology of the MLT. Among the suite of numerical experiments reported, we present a simulation that produced significant variations of tides and planetary waves in the upper mesosphere. The effect is related to the QBO generated in the model, and GW filtering is the likely cause.

A numerical model investigation of the impacts of Hurricane Sandy on water level variability in Great South Bay, New York

USGS Publications Warehouse

Bennett, Vanessa C. C.; Mulligan, Ryan P.; Hapke, Cheryl J.

2018-01-01

Hurricane Sandy was a large and intense storm with high winds that caused total water levels from combined tides and storm surge to reach 4.0 m in the Atlantic Ocean and 2.5 m in Great South Bay (GSB), a back-barrier bay between Fire Island and Long Island, New York. In this study the impact of the hurricane winds and waves are examined in order to understand the flow of ocean water into the back-barrier bay and water level variations within the bay. To accomplish this goal, a high resolution hurricane wind field is used to drive the coupled Delft3D-SWAN hydrodynamic and wave models over a series of grids with the finest resolution in GSB. The processes that control water levels in the back-barrier bay are investigated by comparing the results of four cases that include: (i) tides only; (ii) tides, winds and waves with no overwash over Fire Island allowed; (iii) tides, winds, waves and limited overwash at the east end of the island; (iv) tides, winds, waves and extensive overwash along the island. The results indicate that strong local wind-driven storm surge along the bay axis had the largest influence on the total water level fluctuations during the hurricane. However, the simulations allowing for overwash have higher correlation with water level observations in GSB and suggest that island overwash provided a significant contribution of ocean water to eastern GSB during the storm. The computations indicate that overwash of 7500–10,000 m3s−1 was approximately the same as the inflow from the ocean through the major existing inlet. Overall, the model results indicate the complex variability in total water levels driven by tides, ocean storm surge, surge from local winds, and overwash that had a significant impact on the circulation in Great South Bay during Hurricane Sandy.

A numerical model investigation of the impacts of Hurricane Sandy on water level variability in Great South Bay, New York

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bennett, Vanessa C. C.; Mulligan, Ryan P.; Hapke, Cheryl J.

2018-06-01

Hurricane Sandy was a large and intense storm with high winds that caused total water levels from combined tides and storm surge to reach 4.0 m in the Atlantic Ocean and 2.5 m in Great South Bay (GSB), a back-barrier bay between Fire Island and Long Island, New York. In this study the impact of the hurricane winds and waves are examined in order to understand the flow of ocean water into the back-barrier bay and water level variations within the bay. To accomplish this goal, a high resolution hurricane wind field is used to drive the coupled Delft3D-SWAN hydrodynamic and wave models over a series of grids with the finest resolution in GSB. The processes that control water levels in the back-barrier bay are investigated by comparing the results of four cases that include: (i) tides only; (ii) tides, winds and waves with no overwash over Fire Island allowed; (iii) tides, winds, waves and limited overwash at the east end of the island; (iv) tides, winds, waves and extensive overwash along the island. The results indicate that strong local wind-driven storm surge along the bay axis had the largest influence on the total water level fluctuations during the hurricane. However, the simulations allowing for overwash have higher correlation with water level observations in GSB and suggest that island overwash provided a significant contribution of ocean water to eastern GSB during the storm. The computations indicate that overwash of 7500-10,000 m3s-1 was approximately the same as the inflow from the ocean through the major existing inlet. Overall, the model results indicate the complex variability in total water levels driven by tides, ocean storm surge, surge from local winds, and overwash that had a significant impact on the circulation in Great South Bay during Hurricane Sandy.

Numerical simulation of the 6 day wave effects on the ionosphere: Dynamo modulation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gan, Quan; Wang, Wenbing; Yue, Jia; Liu, Hanli; Chang, Loren C.; Zhang, Shaodong; Burns, Alan; Du, Jian

2016-10-01

The Thermosphere-Ionosphere-Mesosphere Electrodynamics General Circulation Model (TIME-GCM) is used to theoretically study the 6 day wave effects on the ionosphere. By introducing a 6 day perturbation with zonal wave number 1 at the model lower boundary, the TIME-GCM reasonably reproduces the 6 day wave in temperature and horizontal winds in the mesosphere and lower thermosphere region during the vernal equinox. The E region wind dynamo exhibits a prominent 6 day oscillation that is directly modulated by the 6 day wave. Meanwhile, significant local time variability (diurnal and semidiurnal) is also seen in wind dynamo as a result of altered tides due to the nonlinear interaction between the 6 day wave and migrating tides. More importantly, the perturbations in the E region neutral winds (both the 6 day oscillation and tidal-induced short-term variability) modulate the polarization electric fields, thus leading to the perturbations in vertical ion drifts and ionospheric F2 region peak electron density (NmF2). Our modeling work shows that the 6 day wave couples with the ionosphere via both the direct neutral wind modulation and the interaction with atmospheric tides.

Nearshore disposal of fine-grained sediment in a high-energy environment: Santa Cruz Harbor case study

USGS Publications Warehouse

Cronin, Katherine; van Ormondt, Maarten; Storlazzi, Curt D.; Presto, Katherine; Tonnon, Pieter K.; Rosati, Julie D.; Wang, Ping; Roberts, Tiffany M.

2011-01-01

Current regulations in California prohibit the disposal of more than 20% fine-grained sediment in the coastal zone; this threshold is currently being investigated to determine if this environmental regulation can be improved upon. A field monitoring and numerical modeling experiment took place late 2 009 to determine the fate of fine-grained dredge disposal material from Santa Cruz Harbor, California, U.S.A. A multi-nested, hydrodynamic-sediment transport modeling approach was used to simulate the direction and dispersal of the dredge plume. Result s show that the direction and dispersal of the plume was influenced by the wave  climate, a large proportion of which moved in a easterly direction during wave events. Therefore it is vitally important to accurately simulate the tides, waves, currents, temperature and salinity when modeling the dispersal of the fine-grained dredge plume. 

Modeling transport and deposition of the Mekong River sediment

USGS Publications Warehouse

Xue, Zuo; He, Ruoying; Liu, J. Paul; Warner, John C.

2012-01-01

A Coupled Wave–Ocean–SedimentTransport Model was used to hindcast coastal circulation and fine sedimenttransport on the Mekong shelf in southeastern Asian in 2005. Comparisons with limited observations showed that the model simulation captured the regional patterns and temporal variability of surface wave, sea level, and suspended sediment concentration reasonably well. Significant seasonality in sedimenttransport was revealed. In summer, a large amount of fluvial sediments was delivered and deposited near the MekongRiver mouth. In the following winter, strong ocean mixing, and coastal current lead to resuspension and southwestward dispersal of a small fraction of previously deposited sediments. Model sensitivity experiments (with reduced physics) were performed to investigate the impact of tides, waves, and remotely forced ambient currents on the transport and dispersal of the fluvial sediment. Strong wave mixing and downwelling-favorable coastal current associated with the more energetic northeast monsoon in the winter season are the main factors controlling the southwestward along-shelf transport.

Near-bed observations of high-concentration sediment transport in the Changjiang Estuary

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zhou, Z.; Ge, J.; Ding, P.

2017-12-01

The North Passage, the core of turbidity maximum in the Changjiang Estuary, is now under the strong sedimentation due to the abundant sediment supply from the upstream Changjiang River and the river-tide interacted dynamics. Recent studies suggested that strong siltation could be attributed to bottom high-concentration sediment transport, which however is very difficult to be detected and observed by vessel-anchored survey methods. To better understand the mechanisms of sediment transport and deposition in the channel region of the North Passage and its adjacent areas, we conducted continuous field observations which covered spring and neap tide period in the wintertime of 2016, the summertime of 2015 and 2017, focusing on near-bottom sediment transport. Tripods mounted with multiple instruments, including up-looking and down-looking Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers(ADCP), Vector Current Meter(ADV), Optical Backscatter Sensor(OBS), ASM, ALEC and RBR were used to observe the near-bottom physical process and its induced sediment dynamics. Results of these observations clearly described the current-wave-sediment interaction, which produced different patterns of bottom mud suspension at different tripods. Both hydrodynamic features and suspended sediment showed variations between spring and neap tide. Taking data of 2016 as an example, averaged suspended sediment concentration(SSC) at two tripods was 1.52 g/L and 2.13 g/L during the neap tide, 4.51 g/L and 5.75 g/L with the peak value reaching 25 g/L during the spring tide. At the tripod which was closer to the channel region, three peaks of SSC during the spring tide occurred near the flood slack with notable salinity increase, indicating the impact of saltwater intrusion on the bottom hydrodynamics. The results showed the occurrence of high-concentration suspended sediment was probably related to combined effects of bottom salinity intrusion, turbulent kinetic energy(TKE) and local stratification due to density gradient from intruded salinity and local sediment suspension. Meanwhile, tripods' monitoring identified a significant cross-channel component of residual current, which could produce potential bottom sediment accumulation in the channel region within the North Passage.

The anomalous amplification of M2 tide in the Taiwan Strait

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Jan, Sen; Chern, Ching-Sheng; Wang, Joe; Chao, Shenn-Yu

2004-04-01

The complex tidal wave propagation pattern in the Taiwan Strait invites parochialism. Along the eastern (Taiwan) boundary of the strait, the anomalous amplification of M2 tide in the middle often led to the parochial view that two tidal waves coming from both ends of the strait collide in the middle, creating wave resonance. Along the western (China) boundary, one sees a southward progressive tidal wave and hence no wave collision. To reconcile, we examine a few solutions of a numerical tidal model below. Both realistic bottom bathymetry and idealized bottom topographies are used to identify dominant mechanism leading to the complex tidal wave propagation. Our process of elimination identifies the wave reflection of southward propagating tidal wave by the deep trench in the southern strait as the true cause responsible for the complex wave propagation pattern.

Marine Biology and Oceanography, Grades Nine to Twelve. Part I.

ERIC Educational Resources Information Center

Kolb, James A.

This unit, one of a series designed to develop and foster an understanding of the marine environment, presents marine science activities for students in grades 9-12. The unit, focusing on physical factors influencing life in the sea, is divided into sections dealing with: (1) the ocean floor; (2) tides; (3) ocean waves; (4) ocean currents; (5)…

The role of Internal Solitary Waves on deep-water sedimentary processes: the case of up-slope migrating sediment waves off the Messina Strait.

PubMed

Droghei, R; Falcini, F; Casalbore, D; Martorelli, E; Mosetti, R; Sannino, G; Santoleri, R; Chiocci, F L

2016-11-03

Subaqueous, asymmetric sand waves are typically observed in marine channel/canyon systems, tidal environments, and continental slopes exposed to strong currents, where they are formed by current shear resulting from a dominant unidirectional flow. However, sand-wave fields may be readily observed in marine environments where no such current exists; the physical processes driving their formation are enigmatic or not well understood. We propose that internal solitary waves (ISWs) induced by tides can produce an effective, unidirectional boundary "current" that forms asymmetric sand waves. We test this idea by examining a sand-wave field off the Messina Strait, where we hypothesize that ISWs formed at the interface between intermediate and surface waters are refracted by topography. Hence, we argue that the deflected pattern (i.e., the depth-dependent orientation) of the sand-wave field is due to refraction of such ISWs. Combining field observations and numerical modelling, we show that ISWs can account for three key features: ISWs produce fluid velocities capable of mobilizing bottom sediments; the predicted refraction pattern resulting from the interaction of ISWs with bottom topography matches the observed deflection of the sand waves; and predicted migration rates of sand waves match empirical estimates. This work shows how ISWs may contribute to sculpting the structure of continental margins and it represents a promising link between the geological and oceanographic communities.

Waves in the Mesosphere of Venus as seen by the Venus Express Radio Science Experiment VeRa

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Tellmann, Silvia; Häusler, B.; Hinson, D. P.; Tyler, G.; Andert, T. P.; Bird, M. K.; Imamura, T.; Pätzold, M.; Remus, S.

2013-10-01

The Venus Express Radio Science Experiment (VeRa) has retrieved more than 700 profiles of the mesosphere and troposphere of Venus. These profiles cover a wide range of latitudes and local times, enabling study of atmospheric wave phenomena over a range spatial scales at altitudes of 40-90 km. In addition to quasi-horizontal waves and eddies on near planetary scales, diurnally forced eddies and thermal tides, small-scale gravity waves, and turbulence play a significant role in the development and maintenance of atmospheric super-rotation. Small-scale temperature variations with vertical wavelengths of 4 km or less have wave amplitudes reaching TBD km in the stable atmosphere above the tropopause, in contrast with much weaker temperature perturbations observed in the middle cloud layer below. The strength of gravity waves increases with latitude in both hemispheres. The results suggest that convection at low latitudes and topographical forcing at high northern latitudes—possibly in combination with convection and/or Kelvin-Helmholtz instabilities—play key roles in the genesis of gravity waves. Further, thermal tides also play an important role in the mesosphere. Diurnal and semi-diurnal wave modes are observed at different latitudes and altitudes. The latitudinal and height dependence of the thermal tide modes will be investigated.

Seasonal Variation of Wave Activities near the Mesopause Region Observed at King Sejong Station (62.22°S, 58.78°W), Antarctica

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kim, Y.; Lee, C.; Kim, J.; Jee, G.; Won, Y.; Wu, D. L.

2012-12-01

We have analyzed neutral wind data obtained from a VHF meteor radar at King Sejong Station (KSS), Antarctica to investigate wave activities in the altitude region of 80 - 100 km over the Antarctic vortex boundary. The seasonal behavior of semidiurnal tides is generally consistent with the prediction of GSWM (Global Scale Wave Model) except for the altitude region above ~96 km. The gravity wave activities inferred from variances of neutral winds show very similar seasonal characteristics to the semidiurnal tides, implying that there is a close interaction between the gravity wave and tide. Although the seasonal behaviors of the wind variance as an indicator of the gravity wave activity are consistent with those observed at the adjacent Rothera station, the magnitude of the variances at KSS is much larger above the mesopause, especially from May through September, than those at Rothera. The Aura Microwave Limb Sounder (MLS) satellite observations also confirmed the enhancement of gravity wave activity during the same period near the tip of Antarctic Peninsula, where KSS is located. The observed large wind variances at KSS may imply that the atmospheric conditions near the Antarctic vortex are very effective for generation of the gravity waves that propagate to the upper atmosphere.

Sediment Transport and Infilling of a Borrow Pit on an Energetic Sandy Ebb Tidal Delta Offshore of Hilton Head Island, South Carolina

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wren, A.; Xu, K.; Ma, Y.; Sanger, D.; Van Dolah, R.

2014-12-01

Bottom-mounted instrumentation was deployed at two sites on an ebb tidal delta to measure hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and seabed elevation. One site ('borrow site') was 2 km offshore and used as a dredging site for beach nourishment of nearby Hilton Head Island in South Carolina, and the other site ('reference site') was 10 km offshore and not directly impacted by the dredging. In-situ time-series data were collected during two periods after the dredging: March 15 - June 12, 2012('spring') and August 18 - November 18, 2012 ('fall'). At the reference site directional wave spectra and upper water column current velocities were measured, as well as high-resolution current velocity profiles and suspended sediment concentration profiles in the Bottom Boundary Layer (BBL). Seabed elevation and small-scale seabed changes were also measured. At the borrow site seabed elevation and near-bed wave and current velocities were collected using an Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter. Throughout both deployments bottom wave orbital velocities ranged from 0 - 110 m/s at the reference site. Wave orbital velocities were much lower at the borrow site ranging from 10-20 cm/s, as wave energy was dissipated on the extensive and rough sand banks before reaching the borrow site. Suspended sediment concentrations increased throughout the BBL when orbital velocities increased to approximately 20 cm/s. Sediment grain size and critical shear stresses were similar at both sites, therefore, re-suspension due to waves was less frequent at the borrow site. However, sediment concentrations were highly correlated with the tidal cycle at both sites. Semidiurnal tidal currents were similar at the two sites, typically ranging from 0 - 50 cm/s in the BBL. Maximum currents exceeded the critical shear stress and measured suspended sediment concentrations increased during the first hours of the tidal cycle when the tide switched to flood tide. Results indicate waves contributed more to sediment mobility at the reference site, while tidal forcing was the dominant factor at the borrow site. The seabed elevation data corraborates these results as active migrating ripples of 10 cm were measured at the reference site, while changes in seabed elevation at the borrow site were more gradual with approximately 30 cm of net accretion throughout the study.

Evaluating wave-current interaction in an urban estuary and flooding implications for coastal communities

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Cifuentes-Lorenzen, A.; O'Donnell, J.; Howard-Strobel, M. M.; Fake, T.; McCardell, G.

2016-12-01

Accurate hydrodynamic-wave coupled coastal circulation models aid the prediction of storm impacts, particularly in areas where data is absent, and can inform mitigation options. They are essential everywhere to account for the effects of climate change. Here, the Finite Volume Community Ocean Model (FVCOM) was used to estimate the residual circulation inside a small urban estuary, Long Island Sound, during three severe weather events of different magnitude (i.e. 1/5, 1/25 and 1/50 year events). The effect of including wave coupling using a log-layer bottom boundary and the bottom wave-current coupling, following the approach of Madsen (1994) on the simulated residual circulation was assessed. Significant differences in the solutions were constrained to the near surface (s>-0.3) region. No significant difference in the depth-averaged residual circulation was detected. When the Madsen (1994) bottom boundary layer model for wave-current interaction was employed, differences in residual circulation resulted. The bottom wave-current interaction also plays an important role in the wave dynamics. Significant wave heights along the northern Connecticut shoreline were enhanced by up to 15% when the bottom wave-current interaction was included in the simulations. The wave-induced bottom drag enhancement has a substantial effect on tides in the Sound, possibly because it is nearly resonant at semidiurnal frequencies. This wave-current interaction current leads to severe tidal dampening ( 40% amplitude reduction) at the Western end of the estuary in the modeled sea surface displacement. The potential magnitude of these effects means that wave current interaction should be included and carefully evaluated in models of estuaries that are useful.

A Link between Variability of the Semidiurnal Tide and Planetary Waves in the Opposite Hemisphere

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Smith, Anne K.; Pancheva, Dora V.; Mitchell, Nicholas J.; Marsh, Daniel R.; Russell, James M., III; Mlynczak, Martin G.

2007-01-01

Horizontal wind observations over four years from the meteor radar at Esrange (68 deg N) are analyzed to determine the variability of the semidiurnal tide. Simultaneous global observations of temperature and geopotential from the SABER satellite instrument are used to construct time series of planetary wave amplitudes and geostrophic mean zonal wind. During NH summer and fall, the temporal variability of the semidiurnal tide at Esrange is found to be well correlated with the amplitude of planetary wavenumber 1 in the stratosphere in high southern latitudes (i.e., in the opposite hemisphere). The correlations indicate that a significant part of the tidal variations at Esrange is due to dynamical interactions in the Southern Hemisphere. Other times of the year do not indicate a corresponding robust correlation pattern for the Esrange tides over multiple years.

A thermosphere-ionosphere-mesosphere-electrodynamic general circulation model (time-GCM): Equinox solar cycle minimum simulations (30-500 km)

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Roble, R. G.; Ridley, E. C.

1994-01-01

A new simulation model of the mesosphere, thermosphere, and ionosphere with coupled electrodynamics has been developed and used to calculate the global circulation, temperature and compositional structure between 30-500 km for equinox, solar cycle minimum, geomagnetic quiet conditions. The model incorporates all of the features of the National Center for Atmospheric Research (NCAR) thermosphere-ionosphere- electrodynamics general circulation model (TIE-GCM) but the lower boundary has been extended downward from 97 to 30 km (10 mb) and it includes the physical and chemical processes appropriate for the mesosphere and upper stratosphere. The first simulation used Rayleigh friction to represent gravity wave drag in the middle atmosphere and although it was able to close the mesospheric jets it severely damped the diurnal tide. Reduced Rayleigh friction allowed the tide to penetrate to thermospheric heights but did not close the jets. A gravity wave parameterization developed by Fritts and Lu (1993) allows both features to exist simultaneously with the structure of tides and mean flow dependent upon the strength of the gravity wave source. The model calculates a changing dynamic structure with the mean flow and diurnal tide dominant in the mesosphere, the in-situ generated semi-diurnal tide dominating the lower thermosphere and an in-situ generated diurnal tide in the upper thermosphere. The results also show considerable interaction between dynamics and composition, especially atomic oxygen between 85 and 120 km.

Changes of the Ionosphere Caused By the Interaction Between the Quasi-Two-Day Wave and Tides

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Yue, J.; Wang, W.; Chang, L. C.

2014-12-01

Traveling planetary waves, such as the quasi-two-day wave (QTDW), are one essential element of the mesosphere and lower thermosphere dynamics. These planetary waves have been observed to cause strong ionospheric day-to-day variations. We have understood that the QTDW can impact the thermosphere and ionosphere either by directly penetrating into the lower thermosphere and modulating E-region dynamo in a period of about 2-days, or by enhancing mixing and decreasing thermosphere O/N2 and in ionospheric electron density. In this work, we introduce the third mechanism of how the QTDW impacts the ionosphere, the QTDW-tidal interactions occurring in the mesosphere and lower thermosphere (MLT). We employ the NCAR TIME-GCM to simulate the interaction between the QTDW and tides, and the impact of this interaction on the ionospheric E-region dynamo, equatorial fountain effect, and F-region plasma density. We find that the tidal amplitudes and phases are dramatically altered during strong QTDW events during post-solstice. In particular, the amplitudes of the migrating tides can decrease as much as 20-30%. The changed tides result in different dynamo electric field, vertical ion drift, and thus different diurnal and semidiurnal cycles in F-region electron density.

Observations of internal bores and waves of elevation on the New England inner continental shelf during summer 2001

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Pritchard, Mark; Weller, Robert A.

2005-03-01

During July-August 2001, oceanographic variability on the New England inner continental shelf was investigated with an emphasis on temporal scales shorter than tidal periods. Mooring and ship survey data showed that subtidal variation of inner shelf stratification was in response to regional Ekman upwelling and downwelling wind driven dynamics. High-frequency variability in the vertical structure of the water column at an offshore mooring site was linked to the baroclinic internal tide and the onshore propagation of nonlinear solitary waves of depression. Temperature, salinity, and velocity data measured at an inshore mooring detected a bottom bore that formed on the flood phase of the tide. During the ebb tide, a second bottom discontinuity and series of nonlinear internal waves of elevation (IWOE) formed when the water column became for a time under hydraulic control. A surface manifestation of these internal wave crests was also observed in aircraft remote sensing imagery. The coupling of IWOE formation to the offshore solitary waves packets was investigated through internal wave breaking criterion derived in earlier laboratory studies. Results suggested that the offshore solitons shoaled on the sloping shelf, and transformed from waves of depression to waves of elevation. The coupling of inshore bore formation to the offshore solitary waves and the possible impact of these periodic features on mixing on the inner shelf region are discussed.

Smal-Scale Spatial Differences in Supply-Side Ecology of Barnacle Larvae Involves a Complex Suite of Factors (Including Surface Tide, Internal Tides And Surface Winds) in Baja California

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Valencia, A.; Ladah, L. B.

2016-02-01

The objective of this study was to quantify and compare the daily settlement rate of barnacle larvae of Chthamalus spp. at small spatial scales ( 1 km) at three sites with unique geomorphology. Simultaneously, water-column temperature, currents, and coastal winds were measured to detect potential physical transport mechanisms responsible for supply of planktonic larvae to the coast. Autocorrelation artifacts in the environmental and settlement time series were removed with the Autoregressive Integrated Moving Average (ARIMA) and their residuals were used to perform a Principal Component Analysis (PCA). This analysis was carried out to determine the independent modes of variability in the environmental forcing mechanisms that may explain the settlement patterns. We found synchronous settlement pulses occurring throughout the study. Settlement at the wave exposed site was only associated to the wind-forcing mode and not to internal waves, which had not been detected previously and was surprising, considering the strong semidiurnal internal tide at this site. Settlement at both the reef-bounded site and the inside-bay site associated to vertical isotherm displacements, thereby suggesting the importance of internal waves for supply-side ecology at these more southern sites. Our results suggest that a complex suite of factors may interact to result in larval supply at the same site, and that larval supply at nearby sites may be forced by different factors due to differences in geomorphology and/or bathymetry, explaining spatial heterogeneity often detected in larval supply and settlement.

Drake Antarctic Agile Meteor Radar first results: Configuration and comparison of mean and tidal wind and gravity wave momentum flux measurements with Southern Argentina Agile Meteor Radar

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Fritts, D. C.; Janches, D.; Iimura, H.; Hocking, W. K.; Bageston, J. V.; Leme, N. M. P.

2012-01-01

A new generation meteor radar was installed at the Brazilian Antarctic Comandante Ferraz Base (62.1°S) in March 2010. This paper describes the motivations for the radar location, its measurement capabilities, and comparisons of measured mean winds, tides, and gravity wave momentum fluxes from April to June of 2010 and 2011 with those by a similar radar on Tierra del Fuego (53.8°S). Motivations for the radars include the “hotspot” of small-scale gravity wave activity extending from the troposphere into the mesosphere and lower thermosphere (MLT) centered over the Drake Passage, the maximum of the semidiurnal tide at these latitudes, and the lack of other MLT wind measurements in this latitude band. Mean winds are seen to be strongly modulated at planetary wave and longer periods and to exhibit strong coherence over the two radars at shorter time scales as well as systematic seasonal variations. The semidiurnal tide contributes most to the large-scale winds over both radars, with maximum tidal amplitudes during May and maxima at the highest altitudes varying from ˜20 to >70 ms-1. In contrast, the diurnal tide and various planetary waves achieve maximum winds of ˜10 to 20 ms-1. Monthly mean gravity wave momentum fluxes appear to reflect the occurrence of significant sources at lower altitudes, with relatively small zonal fluxes over both radars, but with significant, and opposite, meridional momentum fluxes below ˜85 km. These suggest gravity waves propagating away from the Drake Passage at both sites, and may indicate an important source region accounting in part for this “hotspot.”

Drake Antarctic Agile Meteor Radar (DrAAMER) First Results: Configuration and Comparison of Mean and Tidal Wind and Gravity Wave Momentum Flux Measurements with SAAMER

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Fritts, D. C.; Janches, D.; Iimura, H.; Hocking, W. K.; Bageston, J. V.; Pene, N. M.

2011-01-01

A new-generation meteor radar was installed at the Brazilian Antarctic Comandante Ferraz Base (62.1degS) in March 2010. This paper describes the motivations for the radar location, its measurement capabilities, and comparisons of measured mean winds, tides, and gravity wave momentum fluxes from April to June of 2010 and 2011 with those by a similar radar on Tierra del Fuego (53.8degS). Motivations for the radars include the "hotspot" of small-scale gravity wave activity extending from the troposphere into the mesosphere and lower thermosphere (MLT) centered over the Drake Passage, the maximum of the semidiurnal tide at these latitudes, and the lack of other MLT wind measurements in this latitude band. Mean winds are seen to be strongly modulated at planetary wave and longer periods and to exhibit strong coherence over the two radars at shorter time scales as well as systematic seasonal variations. The semidiurnal tide contribute most to the large-scale winds over both radars, with maximum tidal amplitudes during May and maxima at the highest altitudes varying from approx.20 to >70 m/s. In contrast, the diurnal tide and various planetary waves achieve maximum winds of approx.10 to 20 m/s. Monthly-mean gravity wave momentum fluxes appear to reflect the occurrence of significant sources at lower altitudes, with relatively small zonal fluxes over both radars, but with significant, and opposite, meridional momentum fluxes below approx.85 km. These suggest gravity waves propagating away from the Drake Passage at both sites, and may indicate an important source region accounting in part for this "hotspot".

What Is Physical Oceanography? A Learning Experience for Coastal and Oceanic Awareness Studies, No. 217. [Project COAST].

ERIC Educational Resources Information Center

Delaware Univ., Newark. Coll. of Education.

This unit is concerned with an overview of physical oceanography - the study of currents, tides, waves, and particle movements. The activities are designed for use by junior high school age students. Included in the unit are activities related to properties of sea water, physical phenomena of the ocean, and physical features of the ocean.…

The dependence of estuarine turbidity on tidal intrusion length, tidal range and residence time

USGS Publications Warehouse

Uncles, R.J.; Stephens, J.A.; Smith, R.E.

2002-01-01

It is shown that there is a marked tendency for long, strongly tidal estuaries to have greater suspended particulate matter (SPM) concentrations within their high-turbidity regions than shorter estuaries with comparable tidal ranges at their mouths, or weakly tidal estuaries. Using consistently derived data from 44 estuaries in Europe and the Americas, contours of the logarithm of maximum estuarine SPM concentration are shown to be reasonably smooth when plotted against the logarithm of mean spring tidal range (at the estuary mouth) and the logarithm of estuarine tidal length. Predictions from the plot are compared with published observations made in the Delaware, Scheldt, Rio de la Plata, Gironde, Bay of Fundy, Changjiang (Yangtze), Amazon, Paros Lagoon and the Hawkesbury Estuary and it is shown that, qualitatively, there are no serious discrepancies. Short, weakly tidal estuaries are predicted to have very low 'intrinsic' SPM concentrations. High SPM concentrations in these estuaries would most likely be the result of either locally generated wave resuspension, high freshwater sediment loads due to freshets, or intruding seawater carrying suspended sediments derived from wave activity in the coastal zone. Application of a generic tidal model demonstrates that longer estuaries possess faster tidal currents for a given tidal range at their mouth and, in the presence of a supply of erodable fine sediment, therefore (by implication) produce greater concentrations of SPM that can be accumulated within a turbidity maximum. The same is true if the tidal range is increased for estuaries of a given length. These features are illustrated by comparing surveys of SPM data from two large estuaries possessing greatly different tidal ranges (the microtidal, medium turbidity Potomac and the macrotidal, highly turbid Humber-Ouse) and a third, much smaller but strongly tidal estuary (the low-turbidity Tweed). It is demonstrated that longer estuaries tend to have longer flushing times for solutes than shorter systems and that larger tides tend to reduce flushing times, although the tidal influence is secondary. Short, rapidly flushed estuaries quickly lose their erodable fine sediment to the coastal zone during freshets and during the ebbing currents of spring tides. Turbidity is therefore small during low runoff, low wave activity conditions. Very long, very slowly flushed estuaries are unlikely to lose a significant fraction of their resuspended sediments during freshets or individual ebb tides and are therefore able to accumulate large and increasing amounts of fine sediment in the long-term. Turbidity within them is therefore high during the fast currents of large spring tides. ?? 2002 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.

The dependence of estuarine turbidity on tidal intrusion length, tidal range and residence time

USGS Publications Warehouse

Uncles, R.J.; Stephens, J.A.; Smith, R.E.

2002-01-01

It is shown that there is a marked tendency for long, strongly tidal estuaries to have greater suspended particulate matter (SPM) concentrations within their high-turbidity regions than shorter estuaries with comparable tidal ranges at their mouths, or weakly tidal estuaries. Using consistently derived data from 44 estuaries in Europe and the Americas, contours of the logarithm of maximum estuarine SPM concentration are shown to be reasonably smooth when plotted against the logarithm of mean spring tidal range (at the estuary mouth) and the logarithm of estuarine tidal length. Predictions from the plot are compared with published observations made in the Delaware, Scheldt, Rio de la Plata, Gironde, Bay of Fundy, Changjiang (Yangtze), Amazon, Patos Lagoon and the Hawkesbury Estuary and it is shown that, qualitatively, there are no serious discrepancies. Short, weakly tidal estuaries are predicted to have very low ‘intrinsic’ SPM concentrations. High SPM concentrations in these estuaries would most likely be the result of either locally generated wave resuspension, high freshwater sediment loads due to freshets, or intruding seawater carrying suspended sediments derived from wave activity in the coastal zone. Application of a generic tidal model demonstrates that longer estuaries possess faster tidal currents for a given tidal range at their mouth and, in the presence of a supply of erodable fine sediment, therefore (by implication) produce greater concentrations of SPM that can be accumulated within a turbidity maximum. The same is true if the tidal range is increased for estuaries of a given length. These features are illustrated by comparing surveys of SPM data from two large estuaries possessing greatly different tidal ranges (the microtidal, medium turbidity Potomac and the macrotidal, highly turbid Humber-Ouse) and a third, much smaller but strongly tidal estuary (the low-turbidity Tweed). It is demonstrated that longer estuaries tend to have longer flushing times for solutes than shorter systems and that larger tides tend to reduce flushing times, although the tidal influence is secondary. Short, rapidly flushed estuaries quickly lose their erodable fine sediment to the coastal zone during freshets and during the ebbing currents of spring tides. Turbidity is therefore small during low runoff, low wave activity conditions. Very long, very slowly flushed estuaries are unlikely to lose a significant fraction of their resuspended sediments during freshets or individual ebb tides and are therefore able to accumulate large and increasing amounts of fine sediment in the long-term. Turbidity within them is therefore high during the fast currents of large spring tides.

Investigating TIME-GCM Atmospheric Tides for Different Lower Boundary Conditions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Haeusler, K.; Hagan, M. E.; Lu, G.; Forbes, J. M.; Zhang, X.; Doornbos, E.

2013-12-01

It has been recently established that atmospheric tides generated in the lower atmosphere significantly influence the geospace environment. In order to extend our knowledge of the various coupling mechanisms between the different atmospheric layers, we rely on model simulations. Currently there exist two versions of the Global Scale Wave Model (GSWM), i.e. GSWM02 and GSWM09, which are used as a lower boundary (ca. 30 km) condition for the Thermosphere-Ionosphere-Mesosphere-Electrodynamics General Circulation Model (TIME-GCM) and account for the upward propagating atmospheric tides that are generated in the troposphere and lower stratosphere. In this paper we explore the various TIME-GCM upper atmospheric tidal responses for different lower boundary conditions and compare the model diagnostics with tidal results from satellite missions such as TIMED, CHAMP, and GOCE. We also quantify the differences between results associated with GSWM02 and GSWM09 forcing and results of TIMEGCM simulations using Modern-Era Retrospective Analysis for Research and Application (MERRA) data as a lower boundary condition.

Combining Probability Distributions of Wind Waves and Sea Level Variations to Assess Return Periods of Coastal Floods

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Leijala, U.; Bjorkqvist, J. V.; Pellikka, H.; Johansson, M. M.; Kahma, K. K.

2017-12-01

Predicting the behaviour of the joint effect of sea level and wind waves is of great significance due to the major impact of flooding events in densely populated coastal regions. As mean sea level rises, the effect of sea level variations accompanied by the waves will be even more harmful in the future. The main challenge when evaluating the effect of waves and sea level variations is that long time series of both variables rarely exist. Wave statistics are also highly location-dependent, thus requiring wave buoy measurements and/or high-resolution wave modelling. As an initial approximation of the joint effect, the variables may be treated as independent random variables, to achieve the probability distribution of their sum. We present results of a case study based on three probability distributions: 1) wave run-up constructed from individual wave buoy measurements, 2) short-term sea level variability based on tide gauge data, and 3) mean sea level projections based on up-to-date regional scenarios. The wave measurements were conducted during 2012-2014 on the coast of city of Helsinki located in the Gulf of Finland in the Baltic Sea. The short-term sea level distribution contains the last 30 years (1986-2015) of hourly data from Helsinki tide gauge, and the mean sea level projections are scenarios adjusted for the Gulf of Finland. Additionally, we present a sensitivity test based on six different theoretical wave height distributions representing different wave behaviour in relation to sea level variations. As these wave distributions are merged with one common sea level distribution, we can study how the different shapes of the wave height distribution affect the distribution of the sum, and which one of the components is dominating under different wave conditions. As an outcome of the method, we obtain a probability distribution of the maximum elevation of the continuous water mass, which enables a flexible tool for evaluating different risk levels in the current and future climate.

Time scales of circulation and mixing processes of San Francisco Bay waters

USGS Publications Warehouse

Walters, R.A.; Cheng, R.T.; Conomos, T.J.

1985-01-01

Conceptual models for tidal period and low-frequency variations in sea level, currents, and mixing processes in the northern and southern reaches of San Francisco Bay describe the contrasting characteristics and dissimilar processes and rates in these embayments: The northern reach is a partially mixed estuary whereas the southern reach (South Bay) is a tidally oscillating lagoon with density-driven exchanges with the northern reach. The mixed semidiurnal tides are mixtures of progressive and standing waves. The relatively simple oscillations in South Bay are nearly standing waves, with energy propagating down the channels and dispersing into the broad shoal areas. The tides of the northern reach have the general properties of a progressive wave but are altered at the constriction of the embayments and gradually change in an upstream direction to a mixture of progressive and standing waves. The spring and neap variations of the tides are pronounced and cause fortnightly varying tidal currents that affect mixing and salinity stratification in the water column. Wind stress on the water surface, freshwater inflow, and tidal currents interacting with the complex bay configuration are the major local forcing mechanisms creating low-frequency variations in sea level and currents. These local forcing mechanisms drive the residual flows which, with tidal diffusion, control the water-replacement rates in the estuary. In the northern reach, the longitudinal density gradient drives an estuarine circulation in the channels, and the spatial variation in tidal amplitude creates a tidally-driven residual circulation. In contrast, South Bay exhibits a balance between wind-driven circulation and tidally-driven residual circulation for most of the year. During winter, however, there can be sufficient density variations to drive multilayer (2 to 3) flows in the channel of South Bay. Mixing models (that include both diffusive and dispersive processes) are based on time scales associated with salt variations at the boundaries and those associated with the local forcing mechanisms, while the spatial scales of variations are dependent upon the configuration of the embayments. In the northern reach, where the estuarine circulation is strong, the salt flux is carried by the mean advection of the mean salt field. Where large salinity gradients are present, the tidal correlation part of the salt flux is of the same order as the advective part. Our knowledge of mixing and exchange rates in South Bay is poor. As this embayment is nearly isohaline, the salt flux is dominated entirely by the mean advection of the mean salt field. During and after peaks in river discharge, water mixing becomes more dynamic, with a strong density-driven current creating a net exchange of both water mass and salt. These exchanges are stronger during neap tides. Residence times of the water masses vary seasonally and differ between reaches. In the northern reach, residence times are on the order of days for high winter river discharge and of months for summer periods. The residence times for South Bay are fairly long (on the order of several months) during summer, and typically shorter (less than a month) during winter when density-driven exchanges occur. ?? 1985 Dr W. Junk Publishers.

Observations of Secondary Waves Generated from Interaction Between the 2-Day Wave and the Migrating Diurnal Tide.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lieberman, R. S.; Riggin, D. M.; Siskind, D. E.; Nguyen, V.; Palo, S. E.; Mitchell, N. J.; Livesey, N. J.; Stober, G.; Wilhelm, S.; Jacobi, C.

2015-12-01

Nonlinear coupling between the migrating diurnal tide and the westward traveling quasi-2-day wave yields a westward-traveling "sum" wave with zonal wavenumber 4 and a period of 16 hours, and an eastward-traveling "difference" wave with a zonal wavenumber 2 and a period of 2 days. While the eastward 2-day wave has been reported in TIMED/SABER temperatures, the westward 16-hour wave lies outside SABER's Nyquist limits of resolution. To obtain simultaneous definitions of the parent and child waves, we examine hourly output from NOGAPS-ALPHA during January 2005, 2006 and 2008. The westward 16-hour wave maximizes in the winter hemisphere, and behaves like an inertia-gravity wave. The eastward 2-day wave maximizes at low latitudes, and exhibits a mixture of Kelvin and higher-order modes. The 16-hour and the eastward 2-day waves are of comparable magnitude, and alias to the same apparent frequency when viewed from the satellite perspective.

Micro-seismic measurements of cliff motion under wave impact and implications for the development of near-horizontal shore platforms

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Dickson, Mark E.; Pentney, Rachael

2012-05-01

Few high-resolution measurements of process-form interactions have been taken on rock coasts, but recent studies in California have shown that portable seismometers enable useful proxy measurements of wave-energy delivery to cliffs. Here we describe measurements over 20 days of high frequency ground motion of cliffs formed in sedimentary (flysch) rocks at Okakari Point, north of Auckland, New Zealand. Three sensors were located in a shore-normal array inland from the cliff top and a fourth sensor was bolted to a ledge 2 m above the cliff toe. The nearshore wave field in front of the cliff and shore platform was monitored using a shore-normal array of 5 wave gauges. The instrumentation provided measurements of wave-energy delivery and consequent ground motion, including the first observations of motion at the top and bottom of cliffs. Results showed that horizontal ground motion is dominant at the cliff top, whereas vertical motion is dominant at the cliff toe. Power spectra show that several high frequency peaks occur in data from the cliff toe, whereas a single, broader peak frequency occurs at the cliff top resulting from signal modification as seismic waves pass through tens of metres of cliff rock. A 100 m wide shore platform at the cliff toe fundamentally controls the patterns of observed energy delivery. The shore platform is nearly horizontal, elevated close to high water level, and abruptly plunges into water > 10 m deep at its seaward edge. As expected, the magnitude of ground motion at all sensors is greatest during larger waves. Measurements further show that ground motion, both at the bottom and top of the cliff, is strongest at low tide and weakest at high tide. This observation is opposite to that noted at Santa Cruz, where ground motion was greatest at high tide. At Okakari Point the most significant high frequency ground motions occur at low tide when waves are forced to break (sometimes violently) against the seaward edge of the shore platform. Four distinctive frequency peaks between 1 and 50 Hz increase in magnitude as tidal stage drops, implying that wave breaking against the outside edge of the shore platform represents an important source of vibration. A detailed understanding of the energy source (e.g. short duration shock pressures) and rock resonance is not provided by this study. However, quantifying the spatial and temporal patterns of energy delivery places strong emphasis on the important role of shore platform geometry in filtering wave-energy delivery to the cliff. During the 20-day experiment most wave energy was delivered to the outside edge of the shore platform, not the cliff toe. The geomorphic role of high-frequency shaking from wave impacts remains to be clearly demonstrated, but if wave impacts are capable of eroding rock then the data from this study imply that under present conditions the outside edge of the shore platform may be subject to higher erosion rates than the cliff toe. It is possible that the shore platform is currently being destroyed rather than created, but a longer programme of measurements is required to test this notion.

Modeling the Observed QBO and Inter-Annual Variations of the Diurnal Tide in the Mesosphere

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Mayr, Hans G.; Mengel, John G.; Huang, F. T.

2006-01-01

In the current version of the Numerical Spectral Model (NSM), the Quasi-biennial Oscillation (QBO) is generated primarily by small-scale gravity waves (GW) from Hines' Doppler Spread Parameterization (DSP). The model does not have topography, and the planetary waves are solely generated by instabilities. We discuss a 3D modeling study that describes the QBO extending from the stratosphere into the upper mesosphere, where the oscillation produces significant inter-annual variations in the diurnal tide. The numerical results are compared with temperature measurements from the SABER (TIMED) and MLS (UARS) instruments obtained by Huang et al. (2006). With a GW source that peaks at the Equator and is taken to be isotropic and independent of season, the NSM generates a QBO with variable periods around 26 months and zonal wind amplitudes of almost 25 m/s at 30 km. As reported earlier, the NSM reproduces the observed equinoctial maxima in the diurnal tide at altitudes around 95 km. The modeled QBO modulates the tide such that the seasonal amplitude maxima can vary from one year to another by as much as 30%. To shed light on the underlying mechanisms, the relative importance of the advection terms are discussed, and they are shown to be important in the stratosphere. At altitudes above 80 km, however, the QBO-related inter-annual variations of the tide are generated primarily by GW momentum deposition. In qualitative agreement with the SABER measurements, the model generates distinct zonal-mean QBO temperature variations in the stratosphere and mesosphere. In the stratosphere, the computed amplitudes are not much smaller than those observed, and the rate of downward propagation at the Equator is reproduced. The modeled temperature amplitudes in the mesosphere, however, are much smaller than those observed. The observed and computed temperature variations of the QBO peak at the Equator but extend with phase reversals to high latitudes, in contrast to the zonal winds that are confined to equatorial latitudes. Hemispherical asymmetries also appear in both the model results and the observations. The temperature amplitudes outside the equatorial region however tend to occur at lower latitudes in the model results. While there is qualitative agreement between the TIMED measurements and the model prediction, there are some areas of significant disagreement that require us to reexamine the present version of the NSM. The numerical results critically depend on the chosen parameters that determine the wave forcing, and there are a number of avenues to improve the performance of the model that had not been tuned to fit the observations. The GW spectrum and its latitude dependence in the troposphere are not well known, and numerical experiments are discussed that describe the related model response. While it appears that eastward propagating Kelvin waves and westward propagating Rossby gravity waves are not the primary source to generate the QBO, the GW forcing can seed the oscillation and act as a catalyst to enhance effectiveness of these planetary waves.

Impact of large-scale tides on cosmological distortions via redshift-space power spectrum

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Akitsu, Kazuyuki; Takada, Masahiro

2018-03-01

Although large-scale perturbations beyond a finite-volume survey region are not direct observables, these affect measurements of clustering statistics of small-scale (subsurvey) perturbations in large-scale structure, compared with the ensemble average, via the mode-coupling effect. In this paper we show that a large-scale tide induced by scalar perturbations causes apparent anisotropic distortions in the redshift-space power spectrum of galaxies in a way depending on an alignment between the tide, wave vector of small-scale modes and line-of-sight direction. Using the perturbation theory of structure formation, we derive a response function of the redshift-space power spectrum to large-scale tide. We then investigate the impact of large-scale tide on estimation of cosmological distances and the redshift-space distortion parameter via the measured redshift-space power spectrum for a hypothetical large-volume survey, based on the Fisher matrix formalism. To do this, we treat the large-scale tide as a signal, rather than an additional source of the statistical errors, and show that a degradation in the parameter is restored if we can employ the prior on the rms amplitude expected for the standard cold dark matter (CDM) model. We also discuss whether the large-scale tide can be constrained at an accuracy better than the CDM prediction, if the effects up to a larger wave number in the nonlinear regime can be included.

The role of Internal Solitary Waves on deep-water sedimentary processes: the case of up-slope migrating sediment waves off the Messina Strait

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Droghei, R.; Falcini, F.; Casalbore, D.; Martorelli, E.; Mosetti, R.; Sannino, G.; Santoleri, R.; Chiocci, F. L.

2016-11-01

Subaqueous, asymmetric sand waves are typically observed in marine channel/canyon systems, tidal environments, and continental slopes exposed to strong currents, where they are formed by current shear resulting from a dominant unidirectional flow. However, sand-wave fields may be readily observed in marine environments where no such current exists; the physical processes driving their formation are enigmatic or not well understood. We propose that internal solitary waves (ISWs) induced by tides can produce an effective, unidirectional boundary “current” that forms asymmetric sand waves. We test this idea by examining a sand-wave field off the Messina Strait, where we hypothesize that ISWs formed at the interface between intermediate and surface waters are refracted by topography. Hence, we argue that the deflected pattern (i.e., the depth-dependent orientation) of the sand-wave field is due to refraction of such ISWs. Combining field observations and numerical modelling, we show that ISWs can account for three key features: ISWs produce fluid velocities capable of mobilizing bottom sediments; the predicted refraction pattern resulting from the interaction of ISWs with bottom topography matches the observed deflection of the sand waves; and predicted migration rates of sand waves match empirical estimates. This work shows how ISWs may contribute to sculpting the structure of continental margins and it represents a promising link between the geological and oceanographic communities.

Seasonal variation of wave activities near the mesopause region observed at King Sejong Station (62.22°S, 58.78°W), Antarctica

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lee, Changsup; Kim, Yong Ha; Kim, Jeong-Han; Jee, Geonhwa; Won, Young-In; Wu, Dong L.

2013-12-01

We analyzed the neutral wind data at altitudes of 80-100 km obtained from a VHF meteor radar at King Sejong Station (KSS, 62.22°S, 58.78°W), a key location to study wave activities above the stratospheric vortex near the Antarctic Peninsula. The seasonal behavior of the semidiurnal tides is generally consistent with the prediction of Global Scale Wave Model (GSWM02) except in the altitude region above ~96 km. Gravity wave (GW) activities inferred from the neutral wind variances show a seasonal variation very similar to the semidiurnal tide amplitudes, suggesting a strong interaction between gravity waves and the tide. Despite the consistent seasonal variations of the GW wind variances observed at the adjacent Rothera station, the magnitudes of the wind variance obtained at KSS are much larger than those at Rothera, especially during May-September. The enhanced GW activity at KSS is also observed by Aura Microwave Limb Sounder (MLS) from space in its temperature variance. The observed large wind variances at KSS imply that the Antarctic vortex in the stratosphere may act as an effective filter and source for the GWs in the upper atmosphere.

Turbulence and Biological Productivity at Dongsha Reef in the S. China Sea.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

St Laurent, L.

2016-02-01

The combination of the Kuroshio Current, strong tides, topography, and stratification make the South China Sea one of the most energetic energy cascade environments in the global ocean. Internal waves generated in the Luzon Strait emit into the South China Sea as solitons, and propagate until they dissipate along the continental shelves of China and Vietnam. The abrupt conversion of solitons to nonlinear wave trains occurs as the waves pass onto the Dongsha Plateau. The Dongsha Reef at the center of the Plateau is directly in the path of the incoming waves. A measurement program during 2015 documented the energetic turbulence that results as internal waves collide with the Reef. Glider based measurements of microstructure and optical properties showed that turbulent mixing and transport are correlated to biological productivity. It is speculated that the existence of the Reef itself is the result of the breaking internal waves, which moderate the temperature and nutrient levels.

Wave-induced current considering wave-tide interaction in Haeundae

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lim, Hak Soo

2017-04-01

The Haeundae, located at the south eastern end of the Korean Peninsula, is a famous beach, which has an approximately 1.6 km long and 70 m wide coastline. The beach has been repeatedly eroded by the swell waves caused by typhoons in summer and high waves originating in the East Sea in winter. The Korean government conducted beach restoration projects including beach nourishment (620,000 m3) and construction of two submerged breakwaters near both ends of the beach. To prevent the beach erosion and to support the beach restoration project, the Korean government initiated a R&D project, the development of coastal erosion control technology since 2013. As a part of the project, we have been measuring waves and currents at a water depth of 22 m, 1.8 km away from the beach using an acoustic wave and current meter (AWAC) continuously for more than three years; we have also measured waves and currents intensively near the surf-zone in summer and winter. In this study, a numerical simulation using a wave and current coupled model (ROMS-SWAN) was conducted for determining the wave-induced current considering seasonal swell waves (Hs : 2.5 m, Tp: 12 s) and for better understanding of the coastal process near the surf-zone in Haeundae. By comparing the measured and simulated results, we found that cross-shore current during summer is mainly caused by the eddy produced by the wave-induced current near the beach, which in turn, is generated by the strong waves coming from the SSW and S directions. During other seasons, longshore wave-induced current is produced by the swell waves coming from the E and ESE directions. The longshore current heading west toward Dong-Back Island, west end of the beach, during all the seasons and eddy current toward Mipo-Port, east end of the beach, in summer which is well matched with the observed residual current. The wave-induced current with long-term measurement data is incorporated in simulation of sediment transport modeling for developing coastal erosion control system in Haeundae.

TIME-GCM study of the ionospheric equatorial vertical drift changes during the 2006 stratospheric sudden warming

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Maute, A.; Hagan, M. E.; Richmond, A. D.; Roble, R. G.

2014-02-01

This modeling study quantifies the daytime low-latitude vertical E×B drift changes in the longitudinal wave number 1 (wn1) to wn4 during the major extended January 2006 stratospheric sudden warming (SSW) period as simulated by the National Center for Atmospheric Research thermosphere-ionosphere-mesosphere electrodynamics general circulation model (TIME-GCM), and attributes the drift changes to specific tides and planetary waves (PWs). The largest drift amplitude change (approximately 5 m/s) is seen in wn1 with a strong temporal correlation to the SSW. The wn1 drift is primarily caused by the semidiurnal westward propagating tide with zonal wave number 1 (SW1), and secondarily by a stationary planetary wave with zonal wave number 1 (PW1). SW1 is generated by the nonlinear interaction of PW1 and the migrating semidiurnal tide (SW2) at high latitude around 90-100 km. The simulations suggest that the E region PW1 around 100-130 km at the different latitudes has different origins: at high latitudes, the PW1 is related to the original stratospheric PW1; at midlatitudes, the model indicates PW1 is due to the nonlinear interaction of SW1 and SW2 around 95-105 km; and at low latitudes, the PW1 might be caused by the nonlinear interaction between DE2 and DE3. The time evolution of the simulated wn4 in the vertical E×B drift amplitude shows no temporal correlation with the SSW. The wn4 in the low-latitude vertical drift is attributed to the diurnal eastward propagating tide with zonal wave number 3 (DE3), and the contributions from SE2, TE1, and PW4 are negligible.

Waves and tides responsible for the intermittent closure of the entrance of a small, sheltered tidal wetland at San Francisco, CA

USGS Publications Warehouse

Hanes, D.M.; Ward, K.; Erikson, L.H.

2011-01-01

Crissy Field Marsh (CFM; http://www.nps.gov/prsf/planyourvisit/crissy-field-marsh-and-beach.htm) is a small, restored tidal wetland located in the entrance to San Francisco Bay just east of the Golden Gate. The marsh is small but otherwise fairly typical of many such restored wetlands worldwide. The marsh is hydraulically connected to the bay and the adjacent Pacific Ocean by a narrow sandy channel. The channel often migrates and sometimes closes completely, which effectively blocks the tidal connection to the ocean and disrupts the hydraulics and ecology of the marsh. Field measurements of waves and tides have been examined in order to evaluate the conditions responsible for the intermittent closure of the marsh entrance. The most important factor found to bring about the entrance channel closure is the occurrence of large ocean waves. However, there were also a few closure events during times with relatively small offshore waves. Examination of the deep-water directional wave spectra during these times indicates the presence of a small secondary peak corresponding to long period swell from the southern hemisphere, indicating that CFM and San Francisco Bay in general may be more susceptible to long period ocean swell emanating from the south or southwest than the more common ocean waves coming from the northwest. The tidal records during closure events show no strong relationship between closures and tides, other than that closures tend to occur during multi-day periods with successively increasing high tides. It can be inferred from these findings that the most important process to the intermittent closure of the entrance to CFM is littoral sediment transport driven by the influence of ocean swell waves breaking along the CFM shoreline at oblique angles. During periods of large, oblique waves the littoral transport of sand likely overwhelms the scour potential of the tidal flow in the entrance channel. ?? 2011.

Study on Interaction Between Diurnal Tide and Atmospheric Aerosols Observed by Mars Climate Sounder

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wu, Z.; Li, T.

2016-12-01

The increased local time coverage observed by Mars Climate Sounder (MCS) on board Mars Reconnaissance Orbiter (MRO) can enable direct extraction of thermal tides in Mars middle atmosphere with reduced aliasing. Using temperature profiles from Mars year (MY) 30 to 32, we study the latitudinal and seasonal variations of tides and stationary planetary waves with zonal wave numbers s = 1-3. The amplitude of the migrating diurnal tide (DW1) has strong semiannual variations both in the equatorial region and in the Southern Hemisphere (SH) middle latitudes. Aerosols widely distributed in the atmosphere of Mars, namely, dust and water ice also show apparent diurnal variations, which may be caused by a dynamical process of tidal vertical wind. Tidal response in dust abundance indicates an annual variation with maximum amplitude in aphelion seasons while the background abundance of dust peaks in perihelion seasons when global dust storm occurs frequently, which suggests that extremely large abundance of dust may restrain its own tidal response. Water ice abundance in the middle latitudes has a semiannual variation which is similar to the thermal diurnal tide. In addition, the diurnal heating rate of aerosols is calculated and Hough decomposition is performed to estimate the radiative effect of aerosols on diurnal tide.

Undergraduate Research Experience in Ocean/Marine Science (URE-OMS) with African Student Component

DTIC Science & Technology

2008-01-01

Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC). RESULTS Temporal and Spatial Variations of Sea Surface Temperature and Chlorophyll a in Coastal Waters of...Duck, North Carolina [4] Climate change has affected the North Carolina coastal environments and coastal hazards have already taken place in the area...from geological materials (sands, dead and/or bleached corals ...etc) shifted by waves, tides, and currents moving sediments and eroding shorelines

Glider Observations of Internal Tide Packets on the Australian Northwest Shelf

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Book, J. W.; Steinberg, C. R.; Brinkman, R. M.; Jones, N. L.; Lowe, R.; Ivey, G. N.; Pattiaratchi, C. B.; Rice, A. E.

2016-02-01

The rapid profiling capabilities (less than 10 minutes per profile in 100 m of water excluding surfacing times) of autonomous gliders were utilized to study the structure of non-linear internal tide packets on the Australian Northwest Shelf. A total of five gliders were deployed on the shelf from 11 February - 21 April 2012 with more than 2900 glider CTD profiles collected during the final three weeks of this time period when the internal tide activity was intense. In general the internal tide packets showed high degrees of non-linearity, for example in one case a glider observed a 62 m rise of the 28° isotherm over 2.25 hours in a shelf location of 90 meters water depth. In addition to the glider measurements, moored strings of CTD sensors were used to measure the internal tide packets at fixed positions and the results show that the wave packets vary significantly with respect to their structure and arrival times from one tidal period to the next. This fact complicates interpretation of the glider data as wave packet spatial evolution is non-stationary and cannot be simply recovered from repeat glider visits to the same location. Furthermore, the packets were found to move at speeds near or greater (e.g., 0.55 m/s) than the speed that the gliders were moving. Despite these challenges, the gliders offer the only resource that can measure the spatial structure of the wave packets beyond the scope of our limited mooring positions. Therefore, we have implemented methods such as time-augmented empirical orthogonal functions to combine these glider measurements with the fixed mooring measurements in order to better understand the spatial and temporal patterns of the wave packet evolution over the slope and shelf of this region.

Daily estimates of the migrating tide and zonal mean temperature in the mesosphere and lower thermosphere derived from SABER data

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ortland, David A.

2017-04-01

Satellites provide a global view of the structure in the fields that they measure. In the mesosphere and lower thermosphere, the dominant features in these fields at low zonal wave number are contained in the zonal mean, quasi-stationary planetary waves, and tide components. Due to the nature of the satellite sampling pattern, stationary, diurnal, and semidiurnal components are aliased and spectral methods are typically unable to separate the aliased waves over short time periods. This paper presents a data processing scheme that is able to recover the daily structure of these waves and the zonal mean state. The method is validated by using simulated data constructed from a mechanistic model, and then applied to Sounding of the Atmosphere using Broadband Emission Radiometry (SABER) temperature measurements. The migrating diurnal tide extracted from SABER temperatures for 2009 has a seasonal variability with peak amplitude (20 K at 95 km) in February and March and minimum amplitude (less than 5 K at 95 km) in early June and early December. Higher frequency variability includes a change in vertical structure and amplitude during the major stratospheric warming in January. The migrating semidiurnal tide extracted from SABER has variability on a monthly time scale during January through March, minimum amplitude in April, and largest steady amplitudes from May through September. Modeling experiments were performed that show that much of the variability on seasonal time scales in the migrating tides is due to changes in the mean flow structure and the superposition of the tidal responses to water vapor heating in the troposphere and ozone heating in the stratosphere and lower mesosphere.

Observations of infragravity motions for reef fringed islands and atolls

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Becker, J. M.; Merrifield, M. A.; Ford, M.

2012-12-01

The frequency of flooding events that affect low lying islands and atolls in the Pacific is expected to increase under current sea level rise projections. Infragravity (IG) motions, with periods ranging from approximately 25 to 400 seconds, are an important component of wave driven flooding events for reef fringed islands and atolls. The IG variability during wave events is analyzed and interpreted dynamically from pressure and current observations at four cross-reef transects in the North Pacific Ocean that include sites in the Republic of the Marshall Islands and Guam. The IG motions are shown to depend upon the spectral properties of the incident wave forcing and reef flat characteristics that include reef flat length (ranging from 100m to 450m at the four sites) and total water level due to setup and tides. A small inundation event at one of the sites is shown to occur due to large shoreline infragravity energy.

Diurnal tidal currents attributed to free baroclinic coastal-trapped waves on the Pacific shelf off the southeastern coast of Hokkaido, Japan

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kuroda, Hiroshi; Kusaka, Akira; Isoda, Yutaka; Honda, Satoshi; Ito, Sayaka; Onitsuka, Toshihiro

2018-04-01

To understand the properties of tides and tidal currents on the Pacific shelf off the southeastern coast of Hokkaido, Japan, we analyzed time series of 9 current meters that were moored on the shelf for 1 month to 2 years. Diurnal tidal currents such as the K1 and O1 constituents were more dominant than semi-diurnal ones by an order of magnitude. The diurnal tidal currents clearly propagated westward along the coast with a typical phase velocity of 2 m s-1 and wavelength of 200 km. Moreover, the shape and phase of the diurnal currents measured by a bottom-mounted ADCP were vertically homogeneous, except in the vicinity of the bottom boundary layer. These features were very consistent with theoretically estimated properties of free baroclinic coastal-trapped waves of the first mode. An annual (semi-annual) variation was apparent for the phase (amplitude) of the O1 tidal current, which was correlated with density stratification (intensity of an along-shelf current called the Coastal Oyashio). These possible causes are discussed in terms of the propagation and generation of coastal-trapped waves.

Tidal, Residual, Intertidal Mudflat (TRIM) Model and its Applications to San Francisco Bay, California

USGS Publications Warehouse

Cheng, R.T.; Casulli, V.; Gartner, J.W.

1993-01-01

A numerical model using a semi-implicit finite-difference method for solving the two-dimensional shallow-water equations is presented. The gradient of the water surface elevation in the momentum equations and the velocity divergence in the continuity equation are finite-differenced implicitly, the remaining terms are finite-differenced explicitly. The convective terms are treated using an Eulerian-Lagrangian method. The combination of the semi-implicit finite-difference solution for the gravity wave propagation, and the Eulerian-Lagrangian treatment of the convective terms renders the numerical model unconditionally stable. When the baroclinic forcing is included, a salt transport equation is coupled to the momentum equations, and the numerical method is subject to a weak stability condition. The method of solution and the properties of the numerical model are given. This numerical model is particularly suitable for applications to coastal plain estuaries and tidal embayments in which tidal currents are dominant, and tidally generated residual currents are important. The model is applied to San Francisco Bay, California where extensive historical tides and current-meter data are available. The model calibration is considered by comparing time-series of the field data and of the model results. Alternatively, and perhaps more meaningfully, the model is calibrated by comparing the harmonic constants of tides and tidal currents derived from field data with those derived from the model. The model is further verified by comparing the model results with an independent data set representing the wet season. The strengths and the weaknesses of the model are assessed based on the results of model calibration and verification. Using the model results, the properties of tides and tidal currents in San Francisco Bay are characterized and discussed. Furthermore, using the numerical model, estimates of San Francisco Bay's volume, surface area, mean water depth, tidal prisms, and tidal excursions at spring and neap tides are computed. Additional applications of the model reveal, qualitatively the spatial distribution of residual variables. ?? 1993 Academic Press. All rights reserved.

Internal tide transformation across a continental slope off Cape Sines, Portugal

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Small, Justin

2002-04-01

During the INTIFANTE 99 experiment in July 1999, observations were made of a prominent internal undular bore off Cape Sines, Portugal. The feature was always present and dominant in a collection of synthetic aperture radar (SAR) images of the area covering the period before, during and after the trial. During the trial, rapid dissemination of SAR data to the survey ship enabled assessment of the progression of the feature, and the consequent planning of a survey of the bore coincident with a new SAR image. Large amplitude internal waves of 50 m amplitude in 250 m water depth, and 40 m in 100 m depth, were observed. The images show that the position of the feature is linked to the phase of the tide, suggesting an internal tide origin. The individual packets of internal waves contain up to seven waves with wavelengths in the range of 500-1500 m, and successive packets are separated by internal tide distances of typically 16-20 km, suggesting phase speeds of 0.35-0.45 m s -1. The internal waves were coherent over crest lengths of between 15 and 70 km, the longer wavefronts being due to the merging of packets. This paper uses the SAR data to detail the transformation of the wave packet as it passes across the continental slope and approaches the coast. The generation sites for the feature are discussed and reasons for its unusually large amplitude are hypothesised. It is concluded that generation at critical slopes of the bathymetry and non-linear interactions are the likely explanations for the large amplitudes.

The K1 internal tide simulated by a 1/10° OGCM

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Li, Zhuhua; von Storch, Jin-Song; Müller, Malte

2017-05-01

This paper quantifies the K1 internal tide simulated by the 1/10° STORMTIDE model, which simultaneously resolves the eddying general circulation and tides. An evident feature of the K1 internal tide is the critical latitude φc at 30°, which in the STORMTIDE model is characterized by variations from a high energy level equatorward of 30° to a low energy level poleward of 30°. This critical latitude separates the internal tide dynamics into bottom-trapped (at latitudes |φ| > |φc|) and freely propagating (at |φ| < |φc|) motions, respectively. Both types of motions are examined. The bottom-trapping process reveals a gradual vertical decrease of wave energy away from the bottom. The vertical scale, over which the wave energy decrease occurs, is smaller in shallow than in deep water regions. For the freely propagating K1 internal tides, the STORMTIDE model is able to simulate the first three low modes, with the wavelengths ranging from 200-400 km, 100-200 km, to 60-120 km. These wavelength distributions reveal not only a zonal asymmetry but also a poleward increase up to φc, in particular in the Pacific. Such distributions indicate the impact of stratification N and the Coriolis frequency f on the wavelengths. The large wavelength gradient near φc is caused by the wavelength increase from finite values at subcritical latitudes to infinity at φc. Compared to the M2 internal tide, the lower K1 tidal frequency leads to a stronger role of f, hence a weaker effect of N, for the K1 internal tide.

The Global Mode-1 S2 Internal Tide

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zhao, Zhongxiang

2017-11-01

The global mode-1 S2 internal tide is observed using sea surface height (SSH) measurements from four satellite altimeters: TOPEX/Poseidon, Jason-1, Jason-2, and Geosat Follow-On. Plane wave analysis is employed to extract three mode-1 S2 internal tidal waves in any given 250 km by 250 km window, which are temporally coherent over a 20 year period from 1992 to 2012. Depth-integrated energy and flux of the S2 internal tide are calculated from the SSH amplitude and a conversion function built from climatological hydrographic profiles in the World Ocean Atlas 2013. The results show that the S2 and M2 internal tides have similar spatial patterns. Both S2 and M2 internal tides originate at major topographic features and propagate over long distances. The S2 internal tidal beams are generally shorter, likely because the relatively weaker S2 internal tide is easily overwhelmed by nontidal noise. The northbound S2 and M2 internal tides from the Hawaiian Ridge are observed to travel over 3500 km across the Northeast Pacific. The globally integrated energy of the mode-1 S2 internal tide is 7.8 PJ (1 PJ = 1015 J), about 20% that of M2 (36.4 PJ). The histogram of S2 to M2 SSH ratios peaks at 0.4, consistent with the square root of their energy ratio. In terms of SSH, S2 is greater than M2 in ≈10% of the global ocean and ≥50% of M2 in about half of the global ocean.

Numerical Modeling of Coastal Inundation and Sedimentation by Storm Surge, Tides, and Waves at Norfolk, Virginia, USA

DTIC Science & Technology

2012-07-01

hurricanes (tropical) with a 50-year and a 100-year return period, and one winter storm ( extratropical ) occurred in October 1982. There are a total of 15...under the 0-m and 2-m SLR scenarios, respectively. • Tropical and extratropical storms induce extensive coastal inundation around the military...1 NUMERICAL MODELING OF COASTAL INUNDATION AND SEDIMENTATION BY STORM SURGE, TIDES, AND WAVES AT NORFOLK, VIRGINIA, USA Honghai Li 1 , Lihwa Lin 1

Influence of parameterized small-scale gravity waves on the migrating diurnal tide in Earth's thermosphere

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Yiǧit, Erdal; Medvedev, Alexander S.

2017-04-01

Effects of subgrid-scale gravity waves (GWs) on the diurnal migrating tides are investigated from the mesosphere to the upper thermosphere for September equinox conditions, using a general circulation model coupled with the extended spectral nonlinear GW parameterization of Yiğit et al. (). Simulations with GW effects cut off above the turbopause and included in the entire thermosphere have been conducted. GWs appreciably impact the mean circulation and cool the thermosphere down by up to 12-18%. GWs significantly affect the winds modulated by the diurnal migrating tide, in particular, in the low-latitude mesosphere and lower thermosphere and in the high-latitude thermosphere. These effects depend on the mutual correlation of the diurnal phases of the GW forcing and tides: GWs can either enhance or reduce the tidal amplitude. In the low-latitude MLT, the correlation between the direction of the deposited GW momentum and the tidal phase is positive due to propagation of a broad spectrum of GW harmonics through the alternating winds. In the Northern Hemisphere high-latitude thermosphere, GWs act against the tide due to an anticorrelation of tidal wind and GW momentum, while in the Southern high-latitudes they weakly enhance the tidal amplitude via a combination of a partial correlation of phases and GW-induced changes of the circulation. The variable nature of GW effects on the thermal tide can be captured in GCMs provided that a GW parameterization (1) considers a broad spectrum of harmonics, (2) properly describes their propagation, and (3) correctly accounts for the physics of wave breaking/saturation.

Morphodynamics of a tidal ridge system in the southwestern Yellow Sea: HF radar study

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zhong, Yao-Zhao; Li, Yan; Wu, Xiong-Bin; Gao, Shu; Zhou, Tao; Wang, Ya Ping; Gao, Jian-Hua

2018-06-01

A radial tidal ridge system is present throughout the coastal waters of the southwestern Yellow Sea (China) with varied and complicated ridges and channels between them. A newly designed ground-wave high-frequency (HF radar), with full-coverage and high spatial-temporal resolution, was employed in this study to measure the surface currents and bathymetric features correlated wave celerity in the study area from July 17 to August 6, 2011. We found that the spatial distribution pattern of the tidal channels is generally stable with periodic adjustments during a spring-neap tidal cycle and with higher degree of spatial orderliness from neap to spring tides than from spring to neap tides; the nearshore part of the channels is most stable in lateral, the middle part is relatively lateral unstable, and the offshore part changes complicatedly; flood-dominated channels and ebb-dominated ridges are identified using HF radar signals. The horizontal Kelvin number (Keh) is workable in lateral stability evaluation. This study reveals the potential of HF radar in morphodynamic studies on shallow coastal waters.

Tidal flushing and wind driven circulation of Ahe atoll lagoon (Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia) from in situ observations and numerical modelling.

PubMed

Dumas, F; Le Gendre, R; Thomas, Y; Andréfouët, S

2012-01-01

Hydrodynamic functioning and water circulation of the semi-closed deep lagoon of Ahe atoll (Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia) were investigated using 1 year of field data and a 3D hydrodynamical model. Tidal amplitude averaged less than 30 cm, but tide generated very strong currents (2 ms(-1)) in the pass, creating a jet-like circulation that partitioned the lagoon into three residual circulation cells. The pass entirely flushed excess water brought by waves-induced radiation stress. Circulation patterns were computed for climatological meteorological conditions and summarized with stream function and flushing time. Lagoon hydrodynamics and general overturning circulation was driven by wind. Renewal time was 250 days, whereas the e-flushing time yielded a lagoon-wide 80-days average. Tide-driven flush through the pass and wind-driven overturning circulation designate Ahe as a wind-driven, tidally and weakly wave-flushed deep lagoon. The 3D model allows studying pearl oyster larvae dispersal in both realistic and climatological conditions for aquaculture applications. Copyright © 2012 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

2011 Tohoku, Japan tsunami data available from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration/National Geophysical Data Center

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Dunbar, P. K.; Mccullough, H. L.; Mungov, G.; Harris, E.

2012-12-01

The U.S. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) has primary responsibility for providing tsunami warnings to the Nation, and a leadership role in tsunami observations and research. A key component of this effort is easy access to authoritative data on past tsunamis, a responsibility of the National Geophysical Data Center (NGDC) and collocated World Service for Geophysics. Archive responsibilities include the global historical tsunami database, coastal tide-gauge data from US/NOAA operated stations, the Deep-ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunami (DART®) data, damage photos, as well as other related hazards data. Taken together, this integrated archive supports tsunami forecast, warning, research, mitigation and education efforts of NOAA and the Nation. Understanding the severity and timing of tsunami effects is important for tsunami hazard mitigation and warning. The global historical tsunami database includes the date, time, and location of the source event, magnitude of the source, event validity, maximum wave height, the total number of fatalities and dollar damage. The database contains additional information on run-ups (locations where tsunami waves were observed by eyewitnesses, field reconnaissance surveys, tide gauges, or deep ocean sensors). The run-up table includes arrival times, distance from the source, measurement type, maximum wave height, and the number of fatalities and damage for the specific run-up location. Tide gauge data are required for modeling the interaction of tsunami waves with the coast and for verifying propagation and inundation models. NGDC is the long-term archive for all NOAA coastal tide gauge data and is currently archiving 15-second to 1-minute water level data from the NOAA Center for Operational Oceanographic Products and Services (CO-OPS) and the NOAA Tsunami Warning Centers. DART® buoys, which are essential components of tsunami warning systems, are now deployed in all oceans, giving coastal communities faster and more accurate tsunami warnings. NOAA's National Data Buoy Center disseminates real-time DART® data and NGDC processes and archives post-event 15-second high-resolution bottom pressure time series data. An event-specific archive of DART® observations recorded during recent significant tsunamis, including the March 2011 Tohoku, Japan event, are now available through new tsunami event pages integrated with the NGDC global historical tsunami database. These pages are developed to deliver comprehensive summaries of each tsunami event, including socio-economic impacts, tsunami travel time maps, raw observations, de-tided residuals, spectra of the tsunami signal compared to the energy of the background noise, and wavelets. These data are invaluable to tsunami researchers and educators as they are essential to providing a more thorough understanding of tsunamis and their propagation in the open ocean and subsequent inundation of coastal communities. NGDC has collected 289 tide gauge observations, 34 Deep-ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunami (DART®) and bottom pressure recorder (BPR) station observations, and over 5,000 eyewitness reports and post-tsunami field survey measurements for the 2011 Tohoku event.

Parcel-scale urban coastal flood mapping: Leveraging the multi-scale CoSMoS model for coastal flood forecasting

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gallien, T.; Barnard, P. L.; Sanders, B. F.

2011-12-01

California coastal sea levels are projected to rise 1-1.4 meters in the next century and evidence suggests mean tidal range, and consequently, mean high water (MHW) is increasing along portions of Southern California Bight. Furthermore, emerging research indicates wind stress patterns associated with the Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO) have suppressed sea level rise rates along the West Coast since 1980, and a reversal in this pattern would result in the resumption of regional sea level rise rates equivalent to or exceeding global mean sea level rise rates, thereby enhancing coastal flooding. Newport Beach is a highly developed, densely populated lowland along the Southern California coast currently subject to episodic flooding from coincident high tides and waves, and the frequency and intensity of flooding is expected to increase with projected future sea levels. Adaptation to elevated sea levels will require flood mapping and forecasting tools that are sensitive to the dominant factors affecting flooding including extreme high tides, waves and flood control infrastructure. Considerable effort has been focused on the development of nowcast and forecast systems including Scripps Institute of Oceanography's Coastal Data Information Program (CDIP) and the USGS Multi-hazard model, the Southern California Coastal Storm Modeling System (CoSMoS). However, fine scale local embayment dynamics and overtopping flows are needed to map unsteady flooding effects in coastal lowlands protected by dunes, levees and seawalls. Here, a recently developed two dimensional Godunov non-linear shallow water solver is coupled to water level and wave forecasts from the CoSMoS model to investigate the roles of tides, waves, sea level changes and flood control infrastructure in accurate flood mapping and forecasting. The results of this study highlight the important roles of topographic data, embayment hydrodynamics, water level uncertainties and critical flood processes required for meaningful prediction of sea level rise impacts and coastal flood forecasting.

Orbital Decay in Binaries with Evolved Stars

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Sun, Meng; Arras, Phil; Weinberg, Nevin N.; Troup, Nicholas; Majewski, Steven R.

2018-01-01

Two mechanisms are often invoked to explain tidal friction in binary systems. The ``dynamical tide” is the resonant excitation of internal gravity waves by the tide, and their subsequent damping by nonlinear fluid processes or thermal diffusion. The ``equilibrium tide” refers to non-resonant excitation of fluid motion in the star’s convection zone, with damping by interaction with the turbulent eddies. There have been numerous studies of these processes in main sequence stars, but less so on the subgiant and red giant branches. Motivated by the newly discovered close binary systems in the Apache Point Observatory Galactic Evolution Experiment (APOGEE-1), we have performed calculations of both the dynamical and equilibrium tide processes for stars over a range of mass as the star’s cease core hydrogen burning and evolve to shell burning. Even for stars which had a radiative core on the main sequence, the dynamical tide may have very large amplitude in the newly radiative core in post-main sequence, giving rise to wave breaking. The resulting large dynamical tide dissipation rate is compared to the equilibrium tide, and the range of secondary masses and orbital periods over which rapid orbital decay may occur will be discussed, as well as applications to close APOGEE binaries.

Recent progress in tidal modeling

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Vial, F.; Forbes, J. M.

1989-01-01

Recent contributions to tidal theory during the last five years are reviewed. Specific areas where recent progress has occurred include: the action of mean wind and dissipation on tides, interactions of other waves with tides, the use of TGCM in tidal studies. Furthermore, attention is put on the nonlinear interaction between semidiurnal and diurnal tides. Finally, more realistic thermal excitation and background wind and temperature models have been developed in the past few years. This has led to new month-to-month numerical simulations of the semidiurnal tide. Some results using these models are presented and compared with ATMAP tidal climatologies.

Field measurement of velocity time series in the center of Sequim Bay

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Harding, Samuel F.; Harker-Klimes, Genevra EL

A 600 kHz RDI Workhorse was installed in the center of Sequim Bay from 15:04 June 23, 2017 to 09:34 August 24, 2017 at a depth of 25.9 m from MLLW. The instrument was configured to record the flow velocity in vertical cells of 1.0 m in 10 minute ensembles. Each ensemble was calculated as the mean of 24 pings, sampled with an interval of 5.0 s. A burst of increased sampling rate (1200 samples at 2 Hz) was recorded to characterize the wave climate on an hourly basis. The peak depth-averaged flow speed for the deployment was recorded duringmore » the flood tide on June 24, 2017 with a magnitude of 0.34 m/s. The peak flow speed in a single bin was recorded during the same tide at a location of 11.6 m from the seabed with a magnitude of 0.46 m/s. The velocity direction was observed to be relatively constant as a function of depth for the higher flow velocities (flood tides) but highly variable during times of slower flow (ebb tides). A peak significant wave height of 0.36 m was recorded on June 30, 2017 at 18:54. The measured waves showed no indication of a prevalent wave direction during this deployment. The wave record of the fetch-limited site during this deployment approaches the lower limit of the wave measurement resolution. The water temperature fluctuated over a range of 1.7°C during the deployment duration. The mean pitch of the instrument was -1.2° and the mean roll angle of the instrument was 0.3°. The low pitch and roll angles are important factors in the accurate measurement of the wave activity at the surface.« less

Numerical Modelling of circulation and internal tides on the Crozet plateau in support of the IMS/CTBTO hydroacoustic installation HA04

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lyard, Florent Henri; Zampolli, Mario; Marsaleix, Patrick

2014-05-01

Hydrophone stations of the Comprehensive Nuclear-Test-Ban Organisation (CTBTO) International Monitoring System (IMS), with the exception of one in Australia, comprise two triplets of submerged moored hydrophones, one North and one South of the island from which the respective system is deployed. Triplet distances vary approximately between 50 - 100 km kilometres from the island, with each triplet connected to the receiving shore equipment by fibre-optic submarine data cables. Once deployed, the systems relay underwater acoustic waveforms in the band 1 - 100 Hz in real time to Vienna via a shore based satellite link. The design life of hydroacoustic stations is at least 20 years, without need for any maintenance of the underwater system. The re-establishment of hydrophone monitoring station HA04 at Crozet (French Southern and Antarctic Territories) in the South-Western Indian Ocean is currently being investigated. The highly dynamic ocean environment at Crozet is governed by strong winds and generally high sea states at the surface, local circulation emanating from the sub-Antarctic front (SAF) and the Agulhas return current (ARC), moderate surface tides and strong internal tides. Deploying the submarine cables and triplets in such an environment requires careful evaluation of all risks and in particular the minimization of the exposure of the deployed system to excessively strong currents. This issue has been addressed by two studies which are briefly introduced here. In the first study, a linear spectral model was used to study and characterize the barotropic tide-driven currents on the Crozet plateau in three spatial dimensions. The M2 semi-diurnal component was shown to dominate in the area, driving sizeable internal tides. The estimate was quantitatively and spatially refined in the second study, in which a time stepping model was used taking into account the local ocean climatology and stratification, as well as the interplay between the seasonally varying local circulation and the internal tides. The numerical result showed a counter-clockwise circulation around Ile de la Possession and Ile de l'Est (Crozet Islands), with a strong component in the South. Internal waves propagating downslope in the near-bottom layers can be particularly intense South of the two islands, while the regions to the North appear to be more calm. The results from the studies are compared to a set of limited current measurements acquired during a survey campaign in 1998.

Assimilation of Wave and Current Data for Prediction of Inlet and River Mouth Dynamics

DTIC Science & Technology

2013-07-01

onto the Delft3D computational grid and the specification of Riemann -type boundary conditions for the boundary-normal velocity and surface elevation...conditions from time- history data from in situ tide gages. The corrections are applied to the surface-elevation contribution to the Riemann boundary...The algorithms described above are all of the strong-constraint variational variety, and make use of adjoint solvers corresponding to the various

Effects of Neutron-Star Dynamic Tides on Gravitational Waveforms within the Effective-One-Body Approach

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hinderer, Tanja; Taracchini, Andrea; Foucart, Francois; Buonanno, Alessandra; Steinhoff, Jan; Duez, Matthew; Kidder, Lawrence E.; Pfeiffer, Harald P.; Scheel, Mark A.; Szilagyi, Bela; Hotokezaka, Kenta; Kyutoku, Koutarou; Shibata, Masaru; Carpenter, Cory W.

2016-05-01

Extracting the unique information on ultradense nuclear matter from the gravitational waves emitted by merging neutron-star binaries requires robust theoretical models of the signal. We develop a novel effective-one-body waveform model that includes, for the first time, dynamic (instead of only adiabatic) tides of the neutron star as well as the merger signal for neutron-star-black-hole binaries. We demonstrate the importance of the dynamic tides by comparing our model against new numerical-relativity simulations of nonspinning neutron-star-black-hole binaries spanning more than 24 gravitational-wave cycles, and to other existing numerical simulations for double neutron-star systems. Furthermore, we derive an effective description that makes explicit the dependence of matter effects on two key parameters: tidal deformability and fundamental oscillation frequency.

Effects of Neutron-Star Dynamic Tides on Gravitational Waveforms within the Effective-One-Body Approach.

PubMed

Hinderer, Tanja; Taracchini, Andrea; Foucart, Francois; Buonanno, Alessandra; Steinhoff, Jan; Duez, Matthew; Kidder, Lawrence E; Pfeiffer, Harald P; Scheel, Mark A; Szilagyi, Bela; Hotokezaka, Kenta; Kyutoku, Koutarou; Shibata, Masaru; Carpenter, Cory W

2016-05-06

Extracting the unique information on ultradense nuclear matter from the gravitational waves emitted by merging neutron-star binaries requires robust theoretical models of the signal. We develop a novel effective-one-body waveform model that includes, for the first time, dynamic (instead of only adiabatic) tides of the neutron star as well as the merger signal for neutron-star-black-hole binaries. We demonstrate the importance of the dynamic tides by comparing our model against new numerical-relativity simulations of nonspinning neutron-star-black-hole binaries spanning more than 24 gravitational-wave cycles, and to other existing numerical simulations for double neutron-star systems. Furthermore, we derive an effective description that makes explicit the dependence of matter effects on two key parameters: tidal deformability and fundamental oscillation frequency.

Deep-water bedforms induced by refracting Internal Solitary Waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Falcini, Federico; Droghei, Riccardo; Casalbore, Daniele; Martorelli, Eleonora; Mosetti, Renzo; Sannino, Gianmaria; Santoleri, Rosalia; Latino Chiocci, Francesco

2017-04-01

Subaqueous bedforms (or sand waves) are typically observed in those environments that are exposed to strong currents, characterized by a dominant unidirectional flow. However, sand-wave fields may be also observed in marine environments where no such current exists; the physical processes driving their formation are enigmatic or not well understood. We propose that internal solitary waves (ISWs), induced by tides, can produce an effective, unidirectional boundary flow filed that forms asymmetric sand waves. We test this idea by examining a sand-wave field off the Messina Strait, where we hypothesize that ISWs formed at the interface between intermediate and surface waters are refracted by topography. Hence, we argue that the deflected pattern (i.e., the depth-dependent orientation) of the sand-wave field is due to refraction of such ISWs. Combining field observations and numerical modelling, we show that ISWs can account for three key features: ISWs produce fluid velocities capable of mobilizing bottom sediments; the predicted refraction pattern resulting from the interaction of ISWs with bottom topography matches the observed deflection of the sand waves; and predicted migration rates of sand waves match empirical estimates. This work shows how ISWs may contribute to sculpting the structure of continental margins and it represents a promising link between the geological and oceanographic communities.

Rip currents, mega-cusps, and eroding dunes

USGS Publications Warehouse

Thornton, E.B.; MacMahan, J.; Sallenger, A.H.

2007-01-01

Dune erosion is shown to occur at the embayment of beach mega-cusps O(200 m alongshore) that are associated with rip currents. The beach is the narrowest at the embayment of the mega-cusps allowing the swash of large storm waves coincident with high tides to reach the toe of the dune, to undercut the dune and to cause dune erosion. Field measurements of dune, beach, and rip current morphology are acquired along an 18 km shoreline in southern Monterey Bay, California. This section of the bay consists of a sandy shoreline backed by extensive dunes, rising to heights exceeding 40 m. There is a large increase in wave height going from small wave heights in the shadow of a headland, to the center of the bay where convergence of waves owing to refraction over the Monterey Bay submarine canyon results in larger wave heights. The large alongshore gradient in wave height results in a concomitant alongshore gradient in morphodynamic scale. The strongly refracted waves and narrow bay aperture result in near normal wave incidence, resulting in well-developed, persistent rip currents along the entire shoreline. The alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline are found significantly correlated with the alongshore variations in rip spacing at 95% confidence. The alongshore variations of the volume of dune erosion are found significantly correlated with alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline at 95% confidence. Therefore, it is concluded the mega-cusps are associated with rip currents and that the location of dune erosion is associated with the embayment of the mega-cusp.

The role of Internal Solitary Waves on deep-water sedimentary processes: the case of up-slope migrating sediment waves off the Messina Strait

PubMed Central

Droghei, R.; Falcini, F.; Casalbore, D.; Martorelli, E.; Mosetti, R.; Sannino, G.; Santoleri, R.; Chiocci, F. L.

2016-01-01

Subaqueous, asymmetric sand waves are typically observed in marine channel/canyon systems, tidal environments, and continental slopes exposed to strong currents, where they are formed by current shear resulting from a dominant unidirectional flow. However, sand-wave fields may be readily observed in marine environments where no such current exists; the physical processes driving their formation are enigmatic or not well understood. We propose that internal solitary waves (ISWs) induced by tides can produce an effective, unidirectional boundary “current” that forms asymmetric sand waves. We test this idea by examining a sand-wave field off the Messina Strait, where we hypothesize that ISWs formed at the interface between intermediate and surface waters are refracted by topography. Hence, we argue that the deflected pattern (i.e., the depth-dependent orientation) of the sand-wave field is due to refraction of such ISWs. Combining field observations and numerical modelling, we show that ISWs can account for three key features: ISWs produce fluid velocities capable of mobilizing bottom sediments; the predicted refraction pattern resulting from the interaction of ISWs with bottom topography matches the observed deflection of the sand waves; and predicted migration rates of sand waves match empirical estimates. This work shows how ISWs may contribute to sculpting the structure of continental margins and it represents a promising link between the geological and oceanographic communities. PMID:27808239

Energetics of global ocean tides from Geosat altimetry

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Cartwright, David E.; Ray, Richard D.

1991-01-01

The present paper focuses on resonance and energetics of the daily tides, especially in the southern ocean, the distribution of gravitational power input of daily and half-daily tides, and comparison with other estimates of global dissipation rates. The present global tidal maps, derived from Geosat altimetry, compare favorably with ground truth data at about the same rms level as the models of Schwiderski (1983), and are slightly better in lunar than in solar tides. Diurnal admittances clearly show Kelvin wave structure in the southern ocean and confirm the resonant mode of Platzman (1984) at 28.5 + or - 0.1 hr with an apparent Q of about 4. Driving energy is found to enter dominantly in the North Pacific for the daily tides and is strongly peaked in the tropical oceans for the half-daily tides. Global rates of working on all major tide constituents except S2 agree well with independent results from analyses of gravity through satellite tracking. Comparison at S2 is improved by allowing for the air tide in gravitational results but suggests deficiencies in all solar tide models.

On generation and evolution of seaward propagating internal solitary waves in the northwestern South China Sea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Xu, Jiexin; Chen, Zhiwu; Xie, Jieshuo; Cai, Shuqun

2016-03-01

In this paper, the generation and evolution of seaward propagating internal solitary waves (ISWs) detected by satellite image in the northwestern South China Sea (SCS) are investigated by a fully nonlinear, non-hydrostatic, three-dimensional Massachusetts Institute of Technology general circulation model (MITgcm). The three-dimensional (3D) modeled ISWs agree favorably with those by satellite image, indicating that the observed seaward propagating ISWs may be generated by the interaction of barotropic tidal flow with the arc-like continental slope south of Hainan Island. Though the tidal current is basically in east-west direction, different types of internal waves are generated by tidal currents flowing over the slopes with different shaped shorelines. Over the slope where the shoreline is straight, only weak internal tides are generated; over the slope where the shoreline is seaward concave, large-amplitude internal bores are generated, and since the concave isobaths of the arc-like continental slope tend to focus the baroclinic tidal energy which is conveyed to the internal bores, the internal bores can efficiently disintegrate into a train of rank-ordered ISWs during their propagation away from the slope; while over the slope where the shoreline is seaward convex, no distinct internal tides are generated. It is also implied that the internal waves over the slope are generated due to mixed lee wave mechanism. Furthermore, the effects of 3D model, continental slope curvature, stratification, rotation and tidal forcing on the generation of ISWs are discussed, respectively. It is shown that, the amplitude and phase speed of ISWs derived from a two-dimensional (2D) model are smaller than those from the 3D one, and the 3D model has an advantage over 2D one in simulating the ISWs generated by the interaction between tidal currents and 3D curved continental slope; the reduced continental slope curvature hinders the extension of ISW crestline; both weaker stratification and rotation suppress the generation of ISWs; and the width of ISW crestline generated by K1 tidal harmonic is longer than that by M2 tidal harmonic.

Morphology and modern sedimentary deposits of the macrotidal Marapanim Estuary (Amazon, Brazil)

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Araújo da Silva, Cléa; Souza-Filho, Pedro Walfir M.; Rodrigues, Suzan W. P.

2009-03-01

The northern Brazilian coast, east of the Amazon River is characterized by several macrotidal estuarine systems that harbor large mangrove areas with approximately 7600 km 2. The Marapanim Estuary is influenced by macrotidal regime with moderate waves influence. Morphologic units were investigated by using remote sensing images (i.e., Landsat-7 ETM+, RADARSAT- 1 Wide and SRTM) integrated with bathymetric data. The modern sedimentary deposits were analyzed from 67 cores collected by Vibracore and Rammkersonde systems. Analysis of morphology and surface sedimentary deposits of the Marapanim River reveal they are strongly influenced by the interaction of tidal, wave and fluvial currents. Based on these processes it was possible to recognize three distinct longitudinal facies zonation that revels the geological filling of a macrotidal estuary. The estuary mouth contain fine to medium marine sands strongly influenced by waves and tides, responsible for macrotidal sandy beaches and estuarine channel development, which are characterized by wave-ripple bedding and longitudinal cross-bedding sands. The estuary funnel is mainly influenced by tides that form wide tidal mudflats, colonized by mangroves, along the estuarine margin, with parallel laminations, lenticular bedding, root fragments and organic matter lenses. The upstream estuary contains coarse sand to gravel of fluvial origin. Massive mud with organic matter lenses, marks and roots fragments occur in the floodplain accumulates during seasonal flooding providing a slowly aggrading in the alluvial plain. This morphologic and depositional pattern show easily a tripartite zonation of a macrotidal estuary, that are in the final stage of filling.

Challenges in Defining Tsunami Wave Height

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Stroker, K. J.; Dunbar, P. K.; Mungov, G.; Sweeney, A.; Arcos, N. P.

2017-12-01

The NOAA National Centers for Environmental Information (NCEI) and co-located World Data Service for Geophysics maintain the global tsunami archive consisting of the historical tsunami database, imagery, and raw and processed water level data. The historical tsunami database incorporates, where available, maximum wave heights for each coastal tide gauge and deep-ocean buoy that recorded a tsunami signal. These data are important because they are used for tsunami hazard assessment, model calibration, validation, and forecast and warning. There have been ongoing discussions in the tsunami community about the correct way to measure and report these wave heights. It is important to understand how these measurements might vary depending on how the data were processed and the definition of maximum wave height. On September 16, 2015, an 8.3 Mw earthquake located 48 km west of Illapel, Chile generated a tsunami that was observed all over the Pacific region. We processed the time-series water level data for 57 tide gauges that recorded this tsunami and compared the maximum wave heights determined from different definitions. We also compared the maximum wave heights from the NCEI-processed data with the heights reported by the NOAA Tsunami Warning Centers. We found that in the near field different methods of determining the maximum tsunami wave heights could result in large differences due to possible instrumental clipping. We also found that the maximum peak is usually larger than the maximum amplitude (½ peak-to-trough), but the differences for the majority of the stations were <20 cm. For this event, the maximum tsunami wave heights determined by either definition (maximum peak or amplitude) would have validated the forecasts issued by the NOAA Tsunami Warning Centers. Since there is currently only one field in the NCEI historical tsunami database to store the maximum tsunami wave height, NCEI will consider adding an additional field for the maximum peak measurement.

Ocean science. Enhanced: internal tides and ocean mixing.

PubMed

Garrett, Chris

2003-09-26

Recent satellite and in situ observations have shown that at ocean ridges and other seafloor topographic features, a substantial amount of energy is transferred from the main ocean tides into "internal tides." In his Perspective, Garrett explains how these internal waves with tidal periods propagate through the density-stratified deep ocean and eventually break down into turbulence. The resulting mixing affects ocean stratification and ocean circulation. It thus influences climate as well as biological production. The energy for the internal tides is derived from the rotational energy of the Earth-Moon system changes of the length of the day and the distance to the Moon.

Atmospheric waves on Venus as seen by the Venus Express Radio Science Experiment VeRa

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Tellmann, S.; Häusler, B.; Hinson, D. P.; Tyler, G. L.; Andert, T. P.; Bird, M. K.; Imamura, T.; Pätzold, M.; Remus, S.

2013-09-01

Next to quasi-horizontal waves and eddies on near planetary scales, diurnally forced eddies and thermal tides, small-scale gravity waves and turbulence play a significant role in the development and maintenance of atmospheric super rotation.

Movement patterns and trajectories of ovigerous blue crabs Callinectes sapidus during the spawning migration

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Carr, Sarah D.; Tankersley, Richard A.; Hench, James L.; Forward, Richard B.; Luettich, Richard A.

2004-08-01

Female blue crabs ( Callinectes sapidus Rathbun) migrate from low salinity estuarine regions to high salinity regions near the ocean to release larvae. During this migration, ovigerous females use ebb-tide transport, a vertical migratory behavior in which they ascend into the water column during ebb tides, to move seaward to larval release areas. In order to determine the relationship of ebb-tide vertical migrations to local currents and the influence of these vertical migrations on the horizontal transport of blue crabs in the estuary, ovigerous females with mature embryos (˜1-3 days from hatching) were tracked near Beaufort Inlet, North Carolina (USA), in July and August 2001 and 2002. Crabs were tagged and tracked using ultrasonic telemetry, and currents near the crabs were measured simultaneously with a shipboard acoustic Doppler current profiler. During the two seasons, eight crabs were successfully tracked for periods ranging from 3.9-37.0 h and for distances ranging from 1.9-10.6 km. All crabs migrated seaward during the tracking periods. Crabs moved episodically during all tidal phases with periods of movement on the order of minutes to an hour. They moved with local currents in terms of both speed and direction during ebb tides, consistent with ebb-tide transport, and moved down-estuary (seaward) in opposition to local currents during flood tides. The percentage of time that crabs were active was higher during night ebb tides than during day ebb tides or flood tides and increased with increasing ebb-tide current speed. Mean migratory speeds were 0.11, 0.04, 0.08 and 0.02 m s -1 during night ebb, night flood, day ebb and day flood tides, respectively, and net migratory speeds were on the order of 5 km day -1. Due to the episodic nature of the crabs' movements, the total distances that crabs traveled during ebb tides ranged from 10-40% of the distances that passive particles could have traveled under the same conditions.

Waves at Navigation Structures

DTIC Science & Technology

2015-10-30

upgrades the Coastal Modeling System (CMS) wave models CMS-Wave, a phase- averaged spectral wave model, and BOUSS-2D, a Boussinesq type nonlinear wave...developing WaveNet and TideNet, two Web-based tool systems for wind and wave data access and processing, which provide critical data for USACE project...practical applications, resulting in optimization of navigation system to improve safety, reliability and operations with innovative infrastructures

First JECSS Workshop

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ichiye, Takashi

The first Japan and East China Seas Study (JECSS) workshop convened at Tsukuba University, about 60 km north of Tokyo, Japan, June 1-4, 1981, to assess hydrographic data, review descriptive and theoretical Work, and promote future cooperation for studying the Japan Sea and East China Sea and marginal seas of the Western North Pacific Ocean. The conveners were Takashi Ichiye of Texas A&M University and Kenzo Takano of Tsukuba University, and the workshop was funded by the Hidaka Foundation, which was founded by Koji Hidaka, patriarch of dynamic oceanography in Japan.There were 41 participants: seven from the United States, six from Korea, one from the Peoples Republic of China, and 27 from Japan. Twenty-four papers were presented, and topics included the Japan Sea, the East China Sea, and marginal seas in general. Subjects concerned descriptive physical oceanography; internal waves, tides, and shelf waves; circulation modeling; data assessment; remote sensing; and sedimentology and marine chemistry. The seasonal change of the Tsushima Current, a branch of the Kuroshio in the Japan Sea, was determined by the Tohoku University group; preliminary results of the NOAA R/V Oceanographer cruise in Spring 1980 were presented; and the numerical modeling of the Japan Sea circulation, the tides of the Yellow Sea, and the barotropic current of the East China Sea were discussed. The papers presented will be published in 1982 in La Mer, a journal of the Japanese-French Oceanographical Society.

Influence of tides and planetary waves on E sporadic layer at mid latitudes

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Pezzopane, Michael; Pignalberi, Alessio; Zuccheretti, Enrico

This paper describes the influence that tides and planetary waves have on the variability shown by the main characteristics of the E sporadic (Es) layer, that is the top frequency (ftEs) and the lowest virtual height (h’Es). The study is based on ionograms recorded during the summertime of 2013, a year falling in the maximum of solar activity of cycle 24, and precisely in June, July, August and September, by the Advanced Ionospheric Sounder by Istituto Nazionale di Geofisica e Vulcanologia (AIS-INGV) ionosondes installed at Rome (41.8°N, 12.5°E) and Gibilmanna (37.9°N, 14.0°E), Italy. We applied the height-time-intensity (HTI) methodology proposed by Haldoupis et al. (2006) to investigate how tides control the Es dynamics. As a whole, the HTI analysis showed that a well-defined semidiurnal periodicity characterizes the Es layer descent and occurrence for all the considered months, although in September some cases which showed a prevailing diurnal periodicity were recorded. Through the application of the wavelet analysis it was also found that the tidal oscillations shown by ftEs and h’Es are affected by a strong amplitude modulation with periods of several days but with important differences between the two parameters. This amplitude modulation is a proof that Es layers are indirectly affected by planetary waves through their nonlinear interaction with tides at lower altitudes; this nonlinear interaction produces the presence of secondary waves with frequencies that are the sum and difference of the primary waves frequencies involved in the interaction as proposed by Teitelbaum and Vial [1991]. This work adds to those that were already done by Haldoupis et al. (2004, 2006), and confirms that ionosonde data, especially those registered in summertime, can be used as a powerful tool for studying tidal and planetary waves properties, as well as their climatology, in the mesosphere-low-termosphere region.

Future Change to Tide-Influenced Deltas

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Nienhuis, Jaap H.; Hoitink, A. J. F. (Ton); Törnqvist, Torbjörn E.

2018-04-01

Tides tend to widen deltaic channels and shape delta morphology. Here we present a predictive approach to assess a priori the effect of fluvial discharge and tides on deltaic channels. We show that downstream channel widening can be quantified by the ratio of the tide-driven discharge and the fluvial discharge, along with a second metric representing flow velocities. A test of our new theory on a selection of 72 deltas globally shows good correspondence to a wide range of environments, including wave-dominated deltas, river-dominated deltas, and alluvial estuaries. By quantitatively relating tides and fluvial discharge to delta morphology, we offer a first-order prediction of deltaic change that may be expected from altered delta hydrology. For example, we expect that reduced fluvial discharge in response to dam construction will lead to increased tidal intrusion followed by enhanced tide-driven sediment import into deltas, with implications for navigation and other human needs.

Four-peak longitudinal distribution of the equatorial plasma bubbles observed in the topside ionosphere: Possible troposphere tide influence

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Sidorova, L. N.; Filippov, S. V.

2018-03-01

In this paper we consider an idea of the troposphere tide influence on the character of the longitudinal variations in the distribution of the equatorial plasma bubbles (EPBs) observed in the topside ionosphere. For this purpose, the obtained EPB longitudinal patterns were compared with the thermosphere and ionosphere characteristics having the prominent "wave-like" longitudinal structures with wave number 4, which are uniquely associated with the influence of the troposphere DE3 tides. The characteristics of the equatorial mass density anomaly (EMA), equatorial ionization anomaly (EIA), zonal wind and pre-reversal E × B drift enhancement (PRE) were used for comparison. The equinox seasons during high solar activity were under consideration. It was obtained that the longitudinal patterns of the EMA and zonal wind show the surprising similarity with the EPB distributions (R ≅ 0.8, R ≅ 0.72). On the other hand, the resemblance with the ionosphere characteristics (EIA, PRE) is rather faint (R ≅ 0.37, R ≅ 0.12). It was shown that the thermosphere zonal winds are the most possible transfer mediator of the troposphere DE3 tide influence. The most successful moment for the transfer of the troposphere DE3 tide energy takes place in the beginning of the EPB production, namely, during the seed perturbation development.

Southern Argentina Agile Meteor Radar: System design and initial measurements of large-scale winds and tides

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Fritts, D. C.; Janches, D.; Iimura, H.; Hocking, W. K.; Mitchell, N. J.; Stockwell, R. G.; Fuller, B.; Vandepeer, B.; Hormaechea, J.; Brunini, C.; Levato, H.

2010-09-01

The Southern Argentina Agile Meteor Radar (SAAMER) was installed at Rio Grande on Tierra del Fuego (53.8°S, 67.8°W) in May 2008 and has been operational for ˜24 months. This paper describes the motivations for the radar design and its placement at the southern tip of South America, its operating modes and capabilities, and observations of the mean winds, planetary waves, and tides during its first ˜20 months of operation. SAAMER was specifically designed to provide very high resolution of large-scale motions and hopefully enable direct measurements of the vertical momentum flux by gravity waves, which have only been possible previously with dual- or multiple-beam radars and lidars or in situ measurements. SAAMER was placed on Tierra del Fuego because it was a region devoid of similar measurements, the latitude was anticipated to provide high sensitivity to an expected large semidiurnal tide, and the region is now recognized to be a "hot spot" of small-scale gravity wave activity extending from the troposphere into the mesosphere and lower thermosphere, perhaps the most dynamically active location on Earth. SAAMER was also intended to permit simultaneous enhanced meteor studies, including "head echo" and "nonspecular" measurements, which were previously possible only with high-power large-aperture radars. Initial measurements have defined the mean circulation and structure, exhibited planetary waves at various periods, and revealed large semidiurnal tide amplitudes and variability, with maximum amplitudes at higher altitudes often exceeding 60 m s-1 and amplitude modulations at periods from a few to ˜30 days.

Semidiurnal Solar Tide during the Fall Transition in the Northern Hemisphere

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Conte, J. F.; Chau, J. L.; Laskar, F.; Stober, G.; Schmidt, H.

2017-12-01

We present an analysis of the semidiurnal solar tide (S2) during the fall transition in the Northern Hemisphere mesosphere and lower thermosphere (MLT) region. The tidal information has been derived from wind measurements provided by meteor radars at Andenes (69°N) and Juliusruh (54°N). During the autumn, S2 is characterized by a sudden and pronounced decrease occurring around day 285, every year and at all height levels. The spring transition also shows a decrease of S2, but that progressively extends from lower to higher altitudes during an interval of 15 to 40 days whose starting date varies from one year to the next. Possible explanations for the differences observed between fall and spring time periods are investigated using Hamburg Model of the Neutral and Ionized Atmosphere (HAMMONIA) simulations of zonal and meridional winds, as well as ozone concentrations. Our results indicate that both, the westward propagating wave number 2 migrating tide (SW2) and the westward propagating wave number 1 non-migrating tide (SW1) decrease significantly during the fall, which results in a pronounced decrease of S2, as seen in the observations. During the spring, SW2 also decreases while SW1 remains approximately constant or slightly increases, resulting in a not so pronounced and more extended in time decrease of S2. SW2 and ozone concentrations do not show significant differences from one year to the next. SW1 on the other hand, presents considerable variability, which suggests that its source might be connected to interaction with other waves, such as gravity and planetary waves.

Model of Semidiurnal Pseudo Tide in the High-Latitude Upper Mesosphere

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Talaat, E. R.; Mayr, H. G.

2011-01-01

We present numerical results for the m = 1 meridional winds of semi diurnal oscillations in the high-latitude upper mesosphere, which are generated in the Numerical Spectral Model (NSM) without solar excitations of the tides. Identified with heuristic computer runs, the pseudo tides attain amplitudes that are, at times, as large as the non-migrating tides produced with standard solar forcing. Under the influence of parameterized gravity waves, the nonlinear NSM generates internal oscillations like the quasi-biennial oscillation, that are produced with periods favored by the dynamical properties of the system. The Coriolis force would favor at polar latitudes the excitation of the 12-hour periodicity. This oscillation may help explain the large non-migrating semidiurnal tides that are observed in the region with ground-based and satellite measurements.

Sea level variability at the coast: is it dominated by waves even at interdecadal time scales?

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Melet, Angelique; Almar, Rafael; Meyssignac, Benoit

2017-04-01

Tide gauge records and satellite altimetry indicate that global mean sea level has risen by 16±3 cm during the 20th century. This rise is essentially due to thermal expansion of the ocean and land ice loss from glaciers and ice sheets in response to anthropogenic emissions of greenhouse gases. It is projected to continue over the 21st century and raise concerns for coastal regions. But coastal sea level variations are influenced by other processes such as tides, atmospheric surges and wave induced run-up and set-up. Here we examine the relative importance of the processes causing sea level variations at the coast over the last 23 years from observational datasets and model reanalyses focusing on coastal sites distributed along the world's coastlines for which tide gauges records are available. We show that the long term wave signal can dampen or enhance the effect of the ocean thermal expansion and land ice loss at the coast, over all time scales from subannnual to multidecadal. We estimate that the effect of waves generally explains 60%±20% of the coastal sea level variations at interannual to multidecadal time scales. In the Eastern Pacific, the wave effect dominates the total budget and counterbalances the thermal expansion of the ocean and land ice loss signals. These results highlight that the wave effect has to be taken into account in sea level predictions and projections.

Development of a GNSS Buoy for Monitoring Water Surface Elevations in Estuaries and Coastal Areas.

PubMed

Lin, Yen-Pin; Huang, Ching-Jer; Chen, Sheng-Hsueh; Doong, Dong-Jiing; Kao, Chia Chuen

2017-01-18

In this work, a Global Navigation Satellite System (GNSS) buoy that utilizes a Virtual Base Station (VBS) combined with the Real-Time Kinematic (RTK) positioning technology was developed to monitor water surface elevations in estuaries and coastal areas. The GNSS buoy includes a buoy hull, a RTK GNSS receiver, data-transmission devices, a data logger, and General Purpose Radio Service (GPRS) modems for transmitting data to the desired land locations. Laboratory and field tests were conducted to test the capability of the buoy and verify the accuracy of the monitored water surface elevations. For the field tests, the GNSS buoy was deployed in the waters of Suao (northeastern part of Taiwan). Tide data obtained from the GNSS buoy were consistent with those obtained from the neighboring tide station. Significant wave heights, zero-crossing periods, and peak wave directions obtained from the GNSS buoy were generally consistent with those obtained from an accelerometer-tilt-compass (ATC) sensor. The field tests demonstrate that the developed GNSS buoy can be used to obtain accurate real-time tide and wave data in estuaries and coastal areas.

Development of a GNSS Buoy for Monitoring Water Surface Elevations in Estuaries and Coastal Areas

PubMed Central

Lin, Yen-Pin; Huang, Ching-Jer; Chen, Sheng-Hsueh; Doong, Dong-Jiing; Kao, Chia Chuen

2017-01-01

In this work, a Global Navigation Satellite System (GNSS) buoy that utilizes a Virtual Base Station (VBS) combined with the Real-Time Kinematic (RTK) positioning technology was developed to monitor water surface elevations in estuaries and coastal areas. The GNSS buoy includes a buoy hull, a RTK GNSS receiver, data-transmission devices, a data logger, and General Purpose Radio Service (GPRS) modems for transmitting data to the desired land locations. Laboratory and field tests were conducted to test the capability of the buoy and verify the accuracy of the monitored water surface elevations. For the field tests, the GNSS buoy was deployed in the waters of Suao (northeastern part of Taiwan). Tide data obtained from the GNSS buoy were consistent with those obtained from the neighboring tide station. Significant wave heights, zero-crossing periods, and peak wave directions obtained from the GNSS buoy were generally consistent with those obtained from an accelerometer-tilt-compass (ATC) sensor. The field tests demonstrate that the developed GNSS buoy can be used to obtain accurate real-time tide and wave data in estuaries and coastal areas. PMID:28106763

The Bottom Boundary Layer.

PubMed

Trowbridge, John H; Lentz, Steven J

2018-01-03

The oceanic bottom boundary layer extracts energy and momentum from the overlying flow, mediates the fate of near-bottom substances, and generates bedforms that retard the flow and affect benthic processes. The bottom boundary layer is forced by winds, waves, tides, and buoyancy and is influenced by surface waves, internal waves, and stratification by heat, salt, and suspended sediments. This review focuses on the coastal ocean. The main points are that (a) classical turbulence concepts and modern turbulence parameterizations provide accurate representations of the structure and turbulent fluxes under conditions in which the underlying assumptions hold, (b) modern sensors and analyses enable high-quality direct or near-direct measurements of the turbulent fluxes and dissipation rates, and (c) the remaining challenges include the interaction of waves and currents with the erodible seabed, the impact of layer-scale two- and three-dimensional instabilities, and the role of the bottom boundary layer in shelf-slope exchange.

The Bottom Boundary Layer

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Trowbridge, John H.; Lentz, Steven J.

2018-01-01

The oceanic bottom boundary layer extracts energy and momentum from the overlying flow, mediates the fate of near-bottom substances, and generates bedforms that retard the flow and affect benthic processes. The bottom boundary layer is forced by winds, waves, tides, and buoyancy and is influenced by surface waves, internal waves, and stratification by heat, salt, and suspended sediments. This review focuses on the coastal ocean. The main points are that (a) classical turbulence concepts and modern turbulence parameterizations provide accurate representations of the structure and turbulent fluxes under conditions in which the underlying assumptions hold, (b) modern sensors and analyses enable high-quality direct or near-direct measurements of the turbulent fluxes and dissipation rates, and (c) the remaining challenges include the interaction of waves and currents with the erodible seabed, the impact of layer-scale two- and three-dimensional instabilities, and the role of the bottom boundary layer in shelf-slope exchange.

Variability in Benthic Exchange Rate, Depth, and Residence Time Beneath a Shallow Coastal Estuary

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Russoniello, Christopher J.; Heiss, James W.; Michael, Holly A.

2018-03-01

Hydrodynamically driven benthic exchange of water between the water column and shallow seabed aquifer is a significant and dynamic component of coastal and estuarine fluid budgets. Associated exchange of solutes promotes ecologically important chemical reactions, so quantifying benthic exchange rates, depths, and residence times constrains coastal chemical cycling estimates. We present the first combined field, numerical, and analytical modeling investigation of wave-induced exchange. Temporal variability of exchange was calculated with data collected by instruments deployed in a shallow estuary for 11 days. Differential pressure sensors recorded pressure gradients across the seabed, and up- and down-looking ADCPs recorded currents and pressures to determine wave parameters, surface-water currents, and water depth. Wave-induced exchange was calculated (1) directly from differential pressure measurements, and indirectly with an analytical model based on wave parameters from (2) ADCP and (3) wind data. Wave-induced exchange from pressure measurements and ADCP-measured wave parameters matched well, but both exceeded wind-based values. Exchange induced by tidal pumping and current-bed form interaction—the other primary drivers in shallow coastal waters were calculated from tidal stage variation and ADCP-measured currents. Exchange from waves (mean = 20.0 cm/d; range = 1.75-92.3 cm/d) greatly exceeded exchange due to tides (mean = 3.7 cm/d) and current-bed form interaction (mean = 6.5 × 10-2 cm/d). Groundwater flow models showed aquifer properties affect wave-driven benthic exchange: residence time and depth increased and exchange rates decreased with increasing hydraulic diffusivity (ratio of aquifer permeability to compressibility). This new understanding of benthic exchange will help managers assess its control over chemical fluxes to marine systems.

Modulation of Gravity Waves by Tides as Seen in CRISTA Temperatures

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Preusse, P.; Eckermann, S. D.; Oberheide, J.; Hagan, M. E.; Offermann, D.

2001-01-01

During shuttle missions STS-66 (November, 1994) and STS-85 (August, 1997) the Cryogenic Infrared Spectrometers and Telescopes for the Atmosphere (CRISTA) acquired temperature data with very high spatial resolution. These are analyzed for gravity waves (GW). The altitude range spans the whole middle atmosphere from the tropopause up to the mesopause. In the upper mesosphere tidal amplitudes exceed values of 10 K. Modulation of GW activity by the tides is observed and analyzed using CRISTA temperatures and tidal predictions of the Global Scale Wave Model (GSWM). The modulation process is identified as a tidally-induced change of the background buoyancy frequency. The findings agree well with the expectations for saturated GW and are the first global scale observations of this process.

Persistent and energetic bottom-trapped topographic Rossby waves observed in the southern South China Sea.

PubMed

Shu, Yeqiang; Xue, Huijie; Wang, Dongxiao; Chai, Fei; Xie, Qiang; Cai, Shuqun; Chen, Rongyu; Chen, Ju; Li, Jian; He, Yunkai

2016-04-14

Energetic fluctuations with periods of 9-14 days below a depth of 1400 m were observed in the southern South China Sea (SCS) from 5 years of direct measurements. We interpreted such fluctuations as topographic Rossby waves (TRWs) because they obey the dispersion relation. The TRWs persisted from May 24, 2009 to August 23, 2013, and their bottom current speed with a maximum of ~10 cm/s was one order of magnitude greater than the mean current and comparable to the tidal currents near the bottom. The bottom-trapped TRWs had an approximate trapping depth of 325 m and reference wavelength of ~82 km, which were likely excited by eddies above. Upper layer current speed that peaked approximately every 2 months could offer the energy sources for the persistent TRWs in the southern SCS. Energetic bottom-trapped TRWs may have a comparable role in deep circulation to tides in areas with complex topography.

Persistent and energetic bottom-trapped topographic Rossby waves observed in the southern South China Sea

PubMed Central

Shu, Yeqiang; Xue, Huijie; Wang, Dongxiao; Chai, Fei; Xie, Qiang; Cai, Shuqun; Chen, Rongyu; Chen, Ju; Li, Jian; He, Yunkai

2016-01-01

Energetic fluctuations with periods of 9–14 days below a depth of 1400 m were observed in the southern South China Sea (SCS) from 5 years of direct measurements. We interpreted such fluctuations as topographic Rossby waves (TRWs) because they obey the dispersion relation. The TRWs persisted from May 24, 2009 to August 23, 2013, and their bottom current speed with a maximum of ~10 cm/s was one order of magnitude greater than the mean current and comparable to the tidal currents near the bottom. The bottom-trapped TRWs had an approximate trapping depth of 325 m and reference wavelength of ~82 km, which were likely excited by eddies above. Upper layer current speed that peaked approximately every 2 months could offer the energy sources for the persistent TRWs in the southern SCS. Energetic bottom-trapped TRWs may have a comparable role in deep circulation to tides in areas with complex topography. PMID:27075644

A new instrument system to investigate sediment dynamics on continental shelves

USGS Publications Warehouse

Cacchione, D.A.; Drake, D.E.

1979-01-01

A new instrumented tripod, the GEOPROBE system, has been constructed and used to collect time-series data on physical and geological parameters that are important in bottom sediment dynamics on continental shelves. Simultaneous in situ digital recording of pressure, temperature, light scattering, and light transmission, in combination with current velocity profiles measured with a near-bottom vertical array of electromagnetic current meters, is used to correlate bottom shear generated by a variety of oceanic processes (waves, tides, mean flow, etc.) with incipient movement and resuspension of bottom sediment. A bottom camera system that is activated when current speeds exceed preset threshold values provides a unique method to identify initial sediment motion and bed form development. Data from a twenty day deployment of the GEOPROBE system in Norton Sound, Alaska, during the period September 24 - October 14, 1976 show that threshold conditions for sediment movement are commonly exceeded, even in calm weather periods, due to the additive effects of tidal currents, mean circulation, and surface waves. ?? 1979.

Suspended-sediment flux and retention in a backwater tidal slough complex near the landward boundary of an estuary

USGS Publications Warehouse

Morgan-King, Tara L.; Schoellhamer, David H.

2013-01-01

Backwater tidal sloughs are commonly found at the landward boundary of estuaries. The Cache Slough complex is a backwater tidal region within the Upper Sacramento–San Joaquin Delta that includes two features that are relevant for resource managers: (1) relatively high abundance of the endangered fish, delta smelt (Hypomesus transpacificus), which prefers turbid water and (2) a recently flooded shallow island, Liberty Island, that is a prototype for habitat restoration. We characterized the turbidity around Liberty Island by measuring suspended-sediment flux at four locations from July 2008 through December 2010. An estuarine turbidity maximum in the backwater Cache Slough complex is created by tidal asymmetry, a limited tidal excursion, and wind-wave resuspension. During the study, there was a net export of sediment, though sediment accumulates within the region from landward tidal transport during the dry season. Sediment is continually resuspended by both wind waves and flood tide currents. The suspended-sediment mass oscillates within the region until winter freshwater flow pulses flush it seaward. The hydrodynamic characteristics within the backwater region such as low freshwater flow during the dry season, flood tide dominance, and a limited tidal excursion favor sediment retention.

Ridge-Runnel and Swash Dynamics Field Experiment on a Steep Meso-Tidal Beach

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Figlus, J.; Song, Y.-K.; Chardon-Maldonado, P.; Puleo, J. A.

2014-12-01

Ridge-runnel (RR) systems are morphological features that may form in the intermittently wet and dry zone of the beach immediately after storm events. Their onshore migration provides a natural way of recovery for an eroded beach but the detailed swash interactions and complex feedback mechanisms between wave dynamics, sediment transport and profile evolution are not well understood and challenging to measure in-situ. During a storm, elevated water levels and large waves can significantly erode the beach profile in a matter of hours through offshore-directed sediment transport. The beach recovery process, on the other hand, occurs over a much longer time period during less intense wave conditions. In the beginning of this 3-week field campaign at South Bethany Beach, Delaware, a Nor'easter, eroded significant portions of this steep, meso-tidal beach and formed a pronounced RR system which then evolved during the less energetic conditions after the storm. An extensive cross-shore array of sensors was installed immediately after the storm measuring near-bed velocity profiles (5 Nortek Vectrino Profilers) and horizontal velocities (6 Sontec Electromagnetic Current Meters; 1 side-looking Nortek Vectrino) suspended sediment concentrations (10 Optical Backscatter Sensors OBS-3+), and pressure fluctuations (7 GE Druck pressure transducers) in the swash zone. Dense topography surveys of the RR system were conducted twice a day during low tide conditions with a Leica RTK GPS rover system. In addition, sediment grab samples along the entire RR cross-section were collected daily. An offshore ADCP with surface wave tracking capability (Nortek 2MHz AWAC AST) measured directional wave spectra and current profiles at a water depth of approximately 6m. The RR system showed rapid onshore migration over the two tide cycles immediately after the storm, followed by a period of vertical ridge accretion of up to 3 ft at certain locations. A first look at the collected data and analysis results related to the feedback mechanisms between wave forcing and RR evolution is presented along with a discussion of difficulties encountered during the experiment.

Analysis of migrating diurnal tides detected in FORMOSAT-3/COSMIC temperature data

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Pirscher, B.; Foelsche, U.; Borsche, M.; Kirchengast, G.; Kuo, Y.-H.

2010-07-01

The characteristics of atmospheric tides in the upper troposphere and lower stratosphere region are investigated using radio occultation (RO) measurements performed by the Formosa Satellite Mission-3/Constellation Observing System for Meteorology, Ionosphere, and Climate (FORMOSAT-3/COSMIC) satellite constellation and compared to tides observed in short-term forecast model fields of European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) and National Centers for Environmental Prediction (NCEP). Spectral analysis of 2 years of monthly data (2007 to 2008) yields the migrating diurnal tide to be the largest spectral component. This diurnal tide shows similar temporal, latitudinal, and altitudinal characteristics in all data sets equatorward of 50°. Beyond 50°, COSMIC local time sampling is insufficient within 1 month, which prevents space-time spectral analysis from isolating atmospheric waves. Diurnal tides of temperature are characterized by largest amplitudes in the tropics (0.8 K to 1.0 K at an altitude of 30 km). Amplitudes of diurnal tides analyzed in model data are more pronounced by ˜20%. An annual cycle of the amplitudes, characteristically linked to the movement of the intertropical convergence zone, is clearly revealed. Tropical diurnal phase features downward progression of waves fronts with a vertical wavelength of 20 km. Extratropical diurnal tides are most pronounced in the model data sets with amplitudes of up to 0.5 K at 30 km. In this analysis we also see the influence of high-altitude initialization of RO data by background information in using data processed by two different centers (University Corporation for Atmospheric Research (UCAR) and Wegener Center (WEGC)). UCAR data, initialized by a climatology without tidal information, exhibit no appreciable extratropical diurnal tides, while WEGC data, initialized by ECMWF forecasts, show more pronounced ones. Overall the results underpin the utility of the local-time resolving COSMIC RO constellation data for monitoring diurnal tide dynamics in the stratosphere. The agreement between observational and model data further confirms that the tidal dynamics is appropriately captured in the models, which is important for other (middle/upper) atmosphere models relying on ECMWF or NCEP dynamics.

On the Interaction Between Gravity Waves and Atmospheric Thermal Tides

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Agner, Ryan Matthew

Gravity waves and thermal tides are two of the most important dynamical features of the atmosphere. They are both generated in the lower atmosphere and propagate upward transporting energy and momentum to the upper atmosphere. This dissertation focuses on the interaction of these waves in the Mesosphere and Lower Thermosphere (MLT) region of the atmosphere using both observational data and Global Circulation Model (GCMs). The first part of this work focuses on observations of gravity wave interactions with the tides using both LIDAR data at the Star Fire Optical Range (SOR, 35?N, 106.5?W) and a meteor radar data at the Andes LIDAR Observatory (ALO, 30.3?S, 70.7?W). At SOR, the gravity waves are shown to enhance or damp the amplitude of the diurnal variations dependent on altitude while the phase is always delayed. The results compare well with previous mechanistic model results and with the Japanese Atmospheric General circulation model for Upper Atmosphere Research (JAGUAR) high resolution global circulation model. The meteor radar observed the GWs to almost always enhance the tidal amplitudes and either delay or advance the phase depending on the altitude. When compared to previous radar results from the same meteor radar when it was located in Maui, Hawaii, the Chile results are very similar while the LIDAR results show significant differences. This is because of several instrument biases when calculating GW momentum fluxes that is not significant when determining the winds. The radar needs to perform large amounts of all-sky averaging across many weeks, while the LIDAR directly detects waves in a small section of sky. The second part of this work focuses on gravity wave parameterization scheme effects on the tides in GCMs. The Specified Dynamics Whole Atmosphere Community Climate Model (SD-WACCM) and the extended Canadian Middle Atmosphere Model (eCMAM) are used for this analysis. The gravity wave parameterization schemes in the eCMAM (Hines scheme) have been shown to enhance the tidal amplitudes compared to observations while the parameterization scheme in SD-WACCM (Lindzen scheme) overdamps the tides. It is shown here that the Hines scheme assumption that only small scale gravity waves force the atmosphere do not create enough drag to properly constrain the tidal amplitudes. The Lindzen scheme produces too much drag because all wave scales are assumed to be saturated thus continuing to provide forcing on the atmosphere above the breaking altitude. The final part of this work investigates GWs, tides and their interactions on a local time scale instead of a global scale in the two GCMs. The local time GWs in eCMAM are found to have a strong seasonal dependence, with the majority of the forcings at the winter pole at latitudes where the diurnal variations are weak limiting their interactions. In SD-WACCM, the largest local GW forcings are located at mid latitudes near where the diurnal variations peak causing them to dampen the diurnal amplitudes. On a local time level the diurnal variations may be a summation of many tidal modes. The analysis reveals that in eCMAM the DW1 tidal mode is by far the dominant mode accounting for the local time variations. The high amount of modulation of GWs by the DW1 tidal winds does not allow it to be properly constrained, causing it to dominate the local time diurnal variations. Similarly, the DW1 projection of GW forcing is dominant over all other other modes and contributes the most to the local time diurnal GW variations. The local time wind variations in SD-WACCM are in uenced by several tidal modes because the DW1 tide is of compatible amplitudes to other modes. This is because of the increased damping on the tide by the GWs. It is also found that the local GW diurnal variations have significant contributions from all tidal modes due to the time and location of the forcing being dependent only on the tropospheric source regions and not the at altitude tidal winds.

Water-surface elevations for the high tide of December 15, 1977, in the Puget Sound region, Washington

USGS Publications Warehouse

Nelson, L.M.

1985-01-01

An unusually high oceanic tide on December 15, 1977, caused flooding of lowlying, nearshore parts of western Washington, including several areas in the Puget Sound region. At Seattle, the December 15 high tide of 14.8 feet above MLLW (mean lower low water datum; 8.55 feet above the National Geodetic Vertical Daltum of 1929, or NGVD) was 0.1 foot higher than the 100-year high tide. At Neah Bay, near the western end of the Straits of Juan de Fuca, however, the high tide of 8.77 feet MLLW (4.55 feet NGVD) on that date was 3.2 feet lower than the 100-year high tide. This study has identified the observed December 15 high-tide elevations at many locations in the Puget Sound region. The observed high tide then was much higher than predicted in most of the Puget Sound region, primarily as the result of a very low barametric pressure. Little damage from wind waves was reported. Elevation profiles for the predicted and observed high tides on December 15 and for several other selected tide levels indicate an increase in the maximum height in the inland direction, except near Port Angeles, and show abrupt changes in tidal elevations at three constrictions - Admiralty Inlet, Tacoma Narrows, and Deception Pass. (USGS)

An Overview of a Decade of the Floo Project (fluxes Linking the Offshore and the Onshore): Ecological Implications of the Internal Tide on the Mexican Coastline in Temperate, Subtropical and Tropical Ecosystems

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Valencia, A.; Ladah, L. B.

2016-02-01

High-frequency internal waves and the internal tide have been shown to have strong effects on nearshore ecology and productivity along the Mexican coastline over the past decade of the FLOO (Fluxes Linking the Offshore and the Onshore) project. I will review examples of these effects, ranging from the long term importance of internal wave supply-side ecology of invertebrate larvae to the coast and their post-settlement fate after competition and predation, to nutrient provision at small temporal and spatial scales for different species of macroalgae, to food provision for mussels and corals from various sites along the Mexican Pacific. Internal waves may also alleviate coral bleaching events in areas of strong internal tidal forcing. Temperate, subtropical and tropical sites will be discussed. Solitons, high-frequency internal waves and the internal tide have all been shown to have a stronger and faster than predicted effect on nearshore ecology and productivity, and may be more ecologically important than upwelling for transport of scalars and coastal productivity in certain areas of the Mexican Pacific. Implications of these results will be discussed and speculation of their importance in a future ocean climate will be presented.

Spatial and temporal controls of atoll island inundation: implications for urbanized atolls in the Marshall Islands.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ford, M.; Becker, J. M.; Merrifield, M. A.

2012-12-01

Atoll islands are highly vulnerable to a range of inundation hazards. The impacts of such hazards are expected to be magnified as a result of continued sea-level rise. Both recent and historic inundation events provide unique insights into the requisite conditions necessary to initiate island inundation. A number of recent and historic inundation events are presented in order to examine the oceanographic and meteorological conditions driving inundation of a densely populated, urbanized atoll in the central Pacific. Analysis of inundation events suggests that a number of key drivers contribute to the spatial and temporal extent of island inundation, with unique degrees of predictability and resultant impact signatures apparent on island geomorphology and local anthropogenic activities. Results indicate three distinct drivers of inundation hazards exist. Firstly, tropical storms and typhoons elevate sea level through inverse barometric setup, wind setup and a range of wave driven processes and have caused considerable impact on atolls within the Marshall Islands. Secondly, super-elevated sea level conditions resulting from the combination of seasonal high tides and quasi-cyclical La Nina conditions drive inundation of low-lying lagoon facing coastal areas. Thirdly, long period swell conditions, typically generated by distant storms, can elevate reef-flat water levels through wave setup and infragravity wave oscillations. Such wave conditions can over wash the ocean-facing island ridge, often inundating large sections of the island. Reef-flat wave conditions are tidally modulated, with inundation events typically occurring around high tide. However, the two most recent destructive swell-driven inundation events have occurred while tide levels were significantly lower than spring tide levels, suggesting high water levels are not a necessary prerequisite for wave-driven inundation. The different modes of inundation are discussed and grounded within recent and historic inundation events, as well as results of a lengthy reef flat wave observation dataset from Kwajalein and Majuro Atolls in the Republic of the Marshall Islands. Future impacts of continued sea-level rise are considered on each mode of island inundation and the implications for local response discussed within the context of urbanised atoll islands.

Wave Activity (Planetary, Tidal) throughout the Middle Atmoshere (25-100 km) over the CUJO Network: Satellite and Medium Frequency (MF) Radar Observations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Manson, A.; Meek, C.; Chshyolkova, T.; Avery, S.; Thorsen, D.; MacDougall, J.; Hocking, W.; Murayama, Y.; Igarashi, K.

Planetary and tidal wave activity in the mesosphere-lower thermosphere (MLT), and assessment of wave activity sources in the lower atmosphere, are studied using combinations of ground based (GB) and satellite instruments (2000-2002). CUJO (Canada U.S. Japan Opportunity) comprises MF radar (MFR) systems at London (43°N, 81°W), Platteville (40°N, 105°W), Saskatoon (52°N, 107°W), Wakkanai (45°N, 142°E) and Yamagawa (31°N, 131°E). It offers a significant mid-latitude 7,000 km longitudinal sector in the North American-Pacific region, and a useful range of latitudes (12-14°) at two longitudes. CUJO provides winds and tides 70-100km. Satellite data include the daily values of the total ozone column measured by the Earth Probe (EP) TOMS (Total Ozone Mapping Spectrometer) and provides a measure of tropopause-lower stratospheric planetary wave activity as well as ozone variability. The so-called UKMO data (an assimilation system) are used for correlative purposes with the TOMS data. Climatologies of ozone and winds/tides involving frequency versus time (wavelet) contour plots for periods from 2-d to 30-d and the interval from mid 2000 to 2002, show that the changes with altitude, longitude and latitude are very significant and distinctive. Geometric-mean wavelets for the region of the 40°N MFRs demonstrate occasions during the autumn, winter and spring months when there are similarities in the spectral features of the lower atmosphere and at mesopause (85km) heights. Both direct planetary wave (PW) propagation into the MLT, non-linear PW-tide interactions, and disturbances in MLT tides associated with fluctuations in the ozone forcing are considered to be possible coupling processes. The complex horizontal wave numbers of the longer period oscillations are provided in frequency contour plots for the TOMS and UKMO data to demonstrate the differences between lower atmospheric and MLT wave motions and their directions of propagation.

Rip current monitoring using GPS buoy system

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Song, DongSeob; Kim, InHo; Kang, DongSoo

2014-05-01

The occurrence of rip current in the Haeundae beach, which is one of the most famous beaches in South Korea, has been threatening beach-goers security in summer season annually. Many coastal scientists have been investigating rip currents by using field observations and measurements, laboratory measurements and wave tank experiments, and computer and numerical modeling. Rip current velocity is intermittent and may rapidly increase within minutes due to larger incoming wave groups or nearshore circulation instabilities. It is important to understand that changes in rip current velocity occur in response to changes in incoming wave height and period as well as changes in water level. GPS buoys have been used to acquire sea level change data, atmospheric parameters and other oceanic variables in sea for the purposes of vertical datum determination, tide correction, radar altimeter calibration, ocean environment and marine pollution monitoring. Therefore, we adopted GPS buoy system for an experiment which is to investigate rip current velocity; it is sporadic and may quickly upsurge within minutes due to larger arriving wave groups or nearshore flow uncertainties. In this study, for high accurate positioning of buy equipment, a Satellite Based Argumentation System DGPS data logger was deployed to investigate within floating object, and it can be acquired three-dimensional coordinate or geodetic position of buoy with continuous NMEA-0183 protocol during 24 hours. The wave height measured by in-situ hydrometer in a cross-shore array clearly increased before and after occurrence of rip current, and wave period also was lengthened around an event. These results show that wave height and period correlate reasonably well with long-shore current interaction in the Haeundae beach. Additionally, current meter data and GPS buoy data showed that rip current velocities, about 0.2 m/s, may become dangerously strong under specific conditions. Acknowledgement This research was supported by Basic Science Research Program through the National Research Foundation of Korea(NRF) funded by the Ministry of Education, Science and Technology(2010-0024670)

Water level effects on breaking wave setup for Pacific Island fringing reefs

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Becker, J. M.; Merrifield, M. A.; Ford, M.

2014-02-01

The effects of water level variations on breaking wave setup over fringing reefs are assessed using field measurements obtained at three study sites in the Republic of the Marshall Islands and the Mariana Islands in the western tropical Pacific Ocean. At each site, reef flat setup varies over the tidal range with weaker setup at high tide and stronger setup at low tide for a given incident wave height. The observed water level dependence is interpreted in the context of radiation stress gradients specified by an idealized point break model generalized for nonnormally incident waves. The tidally varying setup is due in part to depth-limited wave heights on the reef flat, as anticipated from previous reef studies, but also to tidally dependent breaking on the reef face. The tidal dependence of the breaking is interpreted in the context of the point break model in terms of a tidally varying wave height to water depth ratio at breaking. Implications for predictions of wave-driven setup at reef-fringed island shorelines are discussed.

Cross-shelf transport of sub-thermocline nitrate by the internal tide and rapid (3-6 h) incorporation by an inshore macroalga

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ladah, Lydia B.; Filonov, Anatoliy; Lavín, Miguel F.; Leichter, James J.; Zertuche-González, José A.; Pérez-Mayorga, Diana M.

2012-07-01

During summer in shallow waters off Baja California, Mexico, the internal tide is a dominant thermal feature of the water column. However, its importance for sub-thermocline nutrient provision to benthic macroalgae is unknown. In order to determine if internal motions provide nutrients to macroalgae in summer, Ulva lactuca was outplanted at inshore stations for short (3 and 6 h) intervals, at the surface, 5 and 10 m depth, and tissue nitrogen content was measured before and after each deployment. Concurrently temperature, currents, and nutrients were measured using moored thermistors, current profilers, CTDs, Niskin bottles, and an in-situ UV absorbance nitrate sensor (ISUS). Discrete pulses of cool, nutrient-rich water were horizontally displaced at least 4 km on the shelf and shoaled more than 20 m depth at the semidiurnal frequency, resulting in more than a 10-fold change in the concentration of nitrate. Inshore, tissue nitrogen of Ulva outplants increased significantly during longer exposures to this cool water. At this site, the semidiurnal signal dominates water column temperature fluctuations from April to November, with summer showing the greatest cooling (up to 5 °C) in a one-hour period. We estimated that 11% of the days of a year show internal waves that would cause a significant change in nutrient availability to macroalgae at 5 m depth. This study supports the hypothesis that nitrate can reach and be rapidly incorporated by inshore macroalgae such as Ulva through transport forced by the internal tide, and that even very short (<1 h) nutrient pulses in nature are reflected in macroalgal tissue. We propose that at this site, the internal tide provides a significant, yet understudied, high frequency nutrient source to inshore primary producers, particularly in summer.

Submesoscale features and their interaction with fronts and internal tides in a high-resolution coupled atmosphere-ocean-wave model of the Bay of Bengal

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Jensen, Tommy G.; Shulman, Igor; Wijesekera, Hemantha W.; Anderson, Stephanie; Ladner, Sherwin

2018-03-01

Large freshwater fluxes into the Bay of Bengal by rainfall and river discharges result in strong salinity fronts in the bay. In this study, a high-resolution coupled atmosphere-ocean-wave model with comprehensive physics is used to model the weather, ocean circulation, and wave field in the Bay of Bengal. Our objective is to explore the submesoscale activity that occurs in a realistic coupled model that resolves mesoscales and allows part of the submesoscale field. Horizontal resolution in the atmosphere varies from 2 to 6 km and is 13 km for surface waves, while the ocean model is submesoscale permitting with resolutions as high as 1.5 km and a vertical resolution of 0.5 m in the upper 10 m. In this paper, three different cases of oceanic submesoscale features are discussed. In the first case, heavy rainfall and intense downdrafts produced by atmospheric convection are found to force submesoscale currents, temperature, and salinity anomalies in the oceanic mixed layer and impact the mesoscale flow. In a second case, strong solitary-like waves are generated by semidiurnal tides in the Andaman Sea and interact with mesoscale flows and fronts and affect submesoscale features generated along fronts. A third source of submesoscale variability is found further north in the Bay of Bengal where river outflows help maintain strong salinity gradients throughout the year. For that case, a comparison with satellite observations of sea surface height anomalies, sea surface temperature, and chlorophyll shows that the model captures the observed mesoscale eddy features of the flow field, but in addition, submesoscale upwelling and downwelling patterns associated with ageostrophic secondary circulations along density fronts are also captured by the model.

Tracer Studies In A Laboratory Beach Subjected To Waves

EPA Science Inventory

This work investigated the washout of dissolved nutrients from beaches due to waves by conducting tracer studies in a laboratory beach facility. The effects of waves were studied in the case where the beach was subjected to the tide, and that in which no tidal action was present...

Turning the tide: effects of river inflow and tidal amplitude on sandy estuaries in laboratory landscape experiments

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kleinhans, Maarten; Braat, Lisanne; Leuven, Jasper; Baar, Anne; van der Vegt, Maarten; van Maarseveen, Marcel; Markies, Henk; Roosendaal, Chris; van Eijk, Arjan

2016-04-01

Many estuaries formed over the Holocene through a combination of fluvial and coastal influxes, but how estuary planform shape and size depend on tides, wave climate and river influxes remains unclear. Here we use a novel tidal flume setup of 20 m length by 3 m width, the Metronome (http://www.uu.nl/metronome), to create estuaries and explore a parameter space for the simple initial condition of a straight river in sandy substrate. Tidal currents capable of transporting sediment in both the ebb and flood phase because they are caused by periodic tilting of the flume rather than the classic method of water level fluctuation. Particle imaging velocimetry and a 1D shallow flow model demonstrate that this principle leads to similar sediment mobility as in nature. Ten landscape experiments recorded by timelapse overhead imaging and AGIsoft DEMs of the final bed elevation show that absence of river inflow leads to short tidal basins whereas even a minor discharge leads to long convergent estuaries. Estuary width and length as well as morphological time scale over thousands of tidal cycles strongly depend on tidal current amplitude. Paddle-generated waves subdue the ebb delta causing stronger tidal currents in the basin. Bar length-width ratios in estuaries are slightly larger to those in braided rivers in experiments and nature. Mutually evasive ebb- and flood-dominated channels are ubiquitous and appear to be formed by an instability mechanism with growing bar and bifurcation asymmetry. Future experiments will include mud flats and live vegetation.

Suspended particulate layers and internal waves over the southern Monterey Bay continental shelf: an important control on shelf mud belts?

USGS Publications Warehouse

Cheriton, Olivia M.; McPhee-Shaw, Erika E.; Shaw, William J.; Stanton, Timothy P.; Bellingham, James G.; Storlazzi, Curt D.

2014-01-01

Physical and optical measurements taken over the mud belt on the southern continental shelf of Monterey Bay, California documented the frequent occurrence of suspended particulate matter features, the majority of which were detached from the seafloor, centered 9–33 m above the bed. In fall 2011, an automated profiling mooring and fixed instrumentation, including a thermistor chain and upward-looking acoustic Doppler current profiler, were deployed at 70 m depth for 5 weeks, and from 12 to 16 October a long-range autonomous underwater vehicle performed across-shelf transects. Individual SPM events were uncorrelated with local bed shear stress caused by surface waves and bottom currents. Nearly half of all observed SPM layers occurred during 1 week of the study, 9–16 October 2011, and were advected past the fixed profiling mooring by the onshore phase of semidiurnal internal tide bottom currents. At the start of the 9–16 October period, we observed intense near-bed vertical velocities capable of lifting particulates into the middle of the water column. This “updraft” event appears to have been associated with nonlinear adjustment of high-amplitude internal tides over the mid and outer shelf. These findings suggest that nonlinear internal tidal motions can erode material over the outer shelf and that, once suspended, this SPM can then be transported shoreward to the middle and shallow sections of the mud belt. This represents a fundamental broadening of our understanding of how shelf mud belts may be built up and sustained.

Suspended particulate layers and internal waves over the southern Monterey Bay continental shelf: An important control on shelf mud belts?

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Cheriton, Olivia M.; McPhee-Shaw, Erika E.; Shaw, William J.; Stanton, Timothy P.; Bellingham, James G.; Storlazzi, Curt D.

2014-01-01

Physical and optical measurements taken over the mud belt on the southern continental shelf of Monterey Bay, California documented the frequent occurrence of suspended particulate matter features, the majority of which were detached from the seafloor, centered 9-33 m above the bed. In fall 2011, an automated profiling mooring and fixed instrumentation, including a thermistor chain and upward-looking acoustic Doppler current profiler, were deployed at 70 m depth for 5 weeks, and from 12 to 16 October a long-range autonomous underwater vehicle performed across-shelf transects. Individual SPM events were uncorrelated with local bed shear stress caused by surface waves and bottom currents. Nearly half of all observed SPM layers occurred during 1 week of the study, 9-16 October 2011, and were advected past the fixed profiling mooring by the onshore phase of semidiurnal internal tide bottom currents. At the start of the 9-16 October period, we observed intense near-bed vertical velocities capable of lifting particulates into the middle of the water column. This "updraft" event appears to have been associated with nonlinear adjustment of high-amplitude internal tides over the mid and outer shelf. These findings suggest that nonlinear internal tidal motions can erode material over the outer shelf and that, once suspended, this SPM can then be transported shoreward to the middle and shallow sections of the mud belt. This represents a fundamental broadening of our understanding of how shelf mud belts may be built up and sustained.

Coastal circulation and potential coral-larval dispersal in Maunalua Bay, O'ahu, Hawaii—Measurements of waves, currents, temperature, and salinity, June-September 2010

USGS Publications Warehouse

Presto, M. Katherine; Storlazzi, Curt D.; Logan, Joshua B.; Reiss, Thomas E.; Rosenberger, Kurt J.

2012-01-01

This report presents a summary of fieldwork conducted in Maunalua Bay, O'ahu, Hawaii to address coral-larval dispersal and recruitment from June through September, 2010. The objectives of this study were to understand the temporal and spatial variations in currents, waves, tides, temperature, and salinity in Maunalua Bay during the summer coral-spawning season of Montipora capitata. Short-term vessel surveys and satellite-tracked drifters were deployed to measure currents during the June 2010 spawning event and to supplement the longer-term measurements of currents and water-column properties by fixed, bottom-mounted instruments deployed in Maunalua Bay. These data show that currents at the surface and just below the surface where coral larvae are found are often oriented in opposite directions due primarily to tidal and trade-winds forcing as the primary mechanisms of circulation in the bay. These data extend our understanding of coral-larvae dispersal patterns due to tidal and wind-driven currents and may be applicable to larvae of other Hawaiian corals.

Reservoir compartmentalization of deep-water Intra Qua Iboe sand (Pliocene), Edop field, offshore Nigeria

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Hermance, W.E.; Olaifa, J.O.; Shanmugam, G.

An integration of 3-D seismic and sedimentological information provides a basis for recognizing and mapping individual flow units within the Intra Qua Iboe (IQI) reservoir (Pliocene), Edop Field, offshore Nigeria. Core examination show the following depositional facies: A-Sandy slump/mass flow, B-Muddy slump/mass flow, C. Bottom current reworking. D-Non-channelized turbidity currents, E. Channelized (coalesced) turbidity currents. F-Channelized (isolated) turbidity currents, G-Pelagic/hemipelagic, H-Levee, I-Reworked slope, J-Wave dominated, and K-Tide dominated facies. With the exception of facies J and K, all these facies are of deep-water affinity. The IQI was deposited on an upper slope environment in close proximity to the shelf edge.more » Through time, as the shelf edge migrated scaward, deposition began with a channel dominated deep-water system (IQI 1 and 2) and progressed through a slump/debris flow dominated deep-water system (IQI 3, the principle reservoir) to a tide and wave dominated shallow-water system (IQI 4). Compositional and textural similarities between the deep-water facies result in similar log motifs. Furthermore, these depositional facies are not readily apparent as distinct seismic facies. Deep-water facies A, D, E, and F are reservoir facies, whereas facies B, C, G, H, and I are non-reservoir facies. However, Facies G is useful as a seismically mappable event throughout the study area. Mapping of these non-reservoir events provides the framework for understanding gross reservoir architecture. This study has resulted in seven defined reservoir units within the IQI, which serves as the architectural framework for ongoing reservoir characterization.« less

Mechanisms of sediment flux between shallows and marshes

USGS Publications Warehouse

Lacy, Jessica R.; Schile, L.M.; Callaway, J.C.; Ferner, M.C.

2015-01-01

We conducted a field study to investigate temporal variation and forcing mechanisms of sediment flux between a salt marsh and adjacent shallows in northern San Francisco Bay. Suspended-sediment concentration (SSC), tidal currents, and wave properties were measured over the marsh, in marsh creeks, and in bay shallows. Cumulative sediment flux in the marsh creeks was bayward during the study, and was dominated by large bayward flux during the largest tides of the year. This result was unexpected because extreme high tides with long inundation periods are commonly assumed to supply sediment to marshes, and long-term accretion estimates show that the marsh in the study site is depositional. A water mass-balance shows that some landward transport bypassed the creeks, most likely across the marsh-bay interface. An estimate of transport by this pathway based on observed SSC and inferred volume indicates that it was likely much less than the observed export.

Generation and Evolution of Internal Waves in Luzon Strait

DTIC Science & Technology

2016-03-01

1 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A: Distribution approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Generation and Evolution of Internal Waves in...internal tides, inertial waves , nonlinear internal waves (NLIWs), and turbulence mixing––in the ocean and thereby help develop improved parameterizations of...mixing for ocean models. Mixing within the stratified ocean is a particular focus as the complex interplay of internal waves from a variety of

The origin of neap-spring tidal cycles

USGS Publications Warehouse

Kvale, E.P.

2006-01-01

The origin of oceanic tides is a basic concept taught in most introductory college-level sedimentology/geology, oceanography, and astronomy courses. Tides are typically explained in the context of the equilibrium tidal theory model. Yet this model does not take into account real tides in many parts of the world. Not only does the equilibrium tidal model fail to explicate amphidromic circulation, it also does not explain diurnal tides in low latitude positions. It likewise fails to explain the existence of tide-dominated areas where neap-spring cycles are synchronized with the 27.32-day orbital cycle of the Moon (tropical month), rather than with the more familiar 29.52-day cycle of lunar phases (synodic month). Both types of neap-spring cycles can be recognized in the rock record. A complete explanation of the origin of tides should include a discussion of dynamic tidal theory. In the dynamic tidal model, tides resulting from the motions of the Moon in its orbit around the Earth and the Earth in its orbit around the Sun are modeled as products of the combined effects of a series of phantom satellites. The movement of each of these satellites, relative to the Earth's equator, creates its own tidal wave that moves around an amphidromic point. Each of these waves is referred to as a tidal constituent. The geometries of the ocean basins determine which of these constituents are amplified. Thus, the tide-raising potential for any locality on Earth can be conceptualized as the result of a series of tidal constituents specific to that region. A better understanding of tidal cycles opens up remarkable opportunities for research on tidal deposits with implications for, among other things, a more complete understanding of the tidal dynamics responsible for sediment transport and deposition, changes in Earth-Moon distance through time, and the possible influences tidal cycles may exert on organisms. ?? 2006 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Frequency Domain Response at Pacific Coast Harbors to Major Tsunamis of 2005-2011

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Xing, Xiuying; Kou, Zhiqing; Huang, Ziyi; Lee, Jiin-Jen

2013-06-01

Tsunamis waves caused by submarine earthquake or landslide might contain large wave energy, which could cause significant human loss and property damage locally as well as in distant region. The response of three harbors located at the Pacific coast (i.e. Crescent City Harbor, Los Angeles/Long Beach Port, and San Diego Harbor) to six well-known tsunamis events generated (both near-field and far-field) between 2005 and 2011 are examined and simulated using a hybrid finite element numerical model in frequency domain. The model incorporated the effects of wave refraction, wave diffraction, partial wave reflection from boundaries, entrance and bottom energy dissipation. It can be applied to harbor regions with arbitrary shapes and variable water depth. The computed resonant periods or modes of oscillation for three harbors are in good agreement with the energy spectral analysis of the time series of water surface elevations recorded at tide gauge stations inside three harbors during the six tsunamis events. The computed wave induced currents based on the present model are also in qualitative agreement with some of the reported eye-witness accounts absence of reliable current data. The simulated results show that each harbor responded differently and significantly amplified certain wave period(s) of incident wave trains according to the shape, topography, characteristic dimensions and water depth of the harbor basins.

A Numerical Study of Hydrodynamics and Sediment Transport in Fourleague Bay, Louisiana

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hu, K.; Chen, Q. J.; Xu, K.; Bentley, S. J.; WANG, J.

2017-12-01

Fourleague Bay is a shallow and vertically well-mixed estuary in south-central Louisiana. This estuary is highly impacted by wind (e.g., cold fronts and tropical storms), river discharge from the Atchafalaya River and tides from the Gulf of Mexico, and is being used as an analog site to study impacts of sediment-diversion restoration strategies in the Mississippi River Delta. In this study, a coupled flow-wave Delft3D model was setup and applied to study hydrodynamics and sediment transport in this area. The model grid size is 1071x631 with a 50-m resolution in the bay. Vegetation is considered by rigid cylinders in both flow and wave modules. The offshore water level boundary conditions were provided by a Gulf-scale Delft3D model. Model parameters, especially for cohesive sediment transport such as settling velocity, erosion rate and critical bottom shear stress, were calibrated using the field observation data during three seasons from May 2015 to March 2016. The modeled water levels, currents, significant wave heights and suspended sediment concentrations agreed fairly well with measurements, which suggests a reasonable model performance. Seasonal variations were analyzed based on different scenarios. A series of numerical experiments were set up to quantify the contributions of different factors, such as river discharge, tides and waves to sediment transport in this area. This model will be further applied to be part of a landscape ecosystem model to test landscape and population change over time with manipulations to sediment delivery. This study was funded by the National Science Foundation (SEES-1427389 and CCF-1539567).

Wave Shape and Impact Pressure Measurements at a Rock Coast Cliff

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Varley, S. J.; Rosser, N. J.; Brain, M.; Vann Jones, E. C.

2016-02-01

Rock coast research focuses largely on wave behaviour across beaches and shore platforms but rarely considers direct wave interaction with cliffs. Hydraulic action is one of the most important drivers of erosion along rock coasts. The magnitude of wave impact pressure has been shown by numerical and laboratory studies to be related to the wave shape. In deep water, a structure is only subjected to the hydrostatic pressure due to the oscillating clapotis. Dynamic pressures, related to the wave celerity, are exerted in shallower water when the wave is breaking at the point of impact; very high magnitude, short duration shock pressures are theorised to occur when the approaching wavefront is vertical. As such, wave shape may directly influence the potential of the impact to weaken rock and cause erosion. Measurements of impact pressure at coastal cliffs are limited, and the occurrence and influence of this phenomenon is currently poorly constrained. To address this, we have undertaken a field monitoring study on the magnitude and vertical distribution of wave impact pressures at the rocky, macro-tidal coastline of Staithes, North Yorkshire, UK. A series of piezo-resistive pressure transducers and a camera were installed at the base of the cliff during low tide. Transducers were deployed vertically up the cliff face and aligned shore-normal to capture the variation in static and dynamic pressure with height during a full spring tidal cycle. Five minute bursts of 5 kHz pressure readings and 4 Hz wave imaging were sampled every 30 minutes for six hours during high tide. Pressure measurements were then compensated for temperature and combined with wave imaging to produce a pressure time series and qualitative wave shape category for each wave impact. Results indicate the presence of a non-linear relationship between pressure impact magnitude, the occurrence of shock pressures, wave shape and tidal stage, and suggest that breaker type on impact (and controls thereof) may be fundamental in dictating the effectiveness of hydraulic action in eroding rock coast cliffs. Our findings demonstrate the sensitivity of wave loading to changes in water depth and, hence, projected sea-level rise. This research leads directly into a wider project investigating the role of wave shape as a key control on marine forcing of erosion.

Estimates of the Attenuation Rates of Baroclinic Tidal Energy Caused by Resonant Interactions Among Internal Waves based on the Weak Turbulence Theory

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Onuki, Y.; Hibiya, T.

2016-02-01

The baroclinic tides are thought to be the dominant energy source for turbulent mixing in the ocean interior. In contrast to the geography of the energy conversion rates from the barotropic to baroclinic tides, which has been clarified in recent numerical studies, the global distribution of the energy sink for the resulting low-mode baroclinic tides remains obscure. A key to resolve this issue is the resonant wave-wave interactions, which transfer part of the baroclinic tidal energy to the background internal wave field enhancing the local energy dissipation rates. Recent field observations and numerical studies have pointed out that parametric subharmonic instability (PSI), one of the resonant interactions, causes significant energy sink of baroclinic tidal energy at mid-latitudes. The purpose of this study is to analyze the quantitative aspect of PSI to demonstrate the global distribution of the intensity of resonant wave interactions, namely, the attenuation rate of low-mode baroclinic tidal energy. Our approach is basically following the weak turbulence theory, which is the standard theory for resonant wave-wave interactions, where techniques of singular perturbation and statistical physics are employed. This study is, however, different from the classical theory in some points; we have reformulated the weak turbulence theory to be applicable to low-mode internal waves and also developed its numerical calculation method so that the effects of stratification profile and oceanic total depth can be taken into account. We have calculated the attenuation rate of low-mode baroclinic tidal waves interacting with the background Garrett-Munk internal wave field. The calculated results clearly show the rapid attenuation of baroclinic tidal energy at mid-latitudes, in agreement with the results from field observations and also show the zonal inhomogeneity of the attenuation rate caused by the density structures associated with the subtropical gyre. This study is expected to contribute to clarify the global distribution of the dissipation rates of baroclinic tidal energy.

Troposphere-Thermosphere Tidal Coupling as Measured by the SABER Instrument on TIMED during July-September, 2002

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Forbes, J. M.; Russell, J.; Miyahara, S.; Zhang, X.; Palo, S.; Mlynczak, M.; Mertens, C. J.; Hagan, M. E.

2005-01-01

Coupling between the troposphere and lower thermosphere due to upward-propagating tides is investigated using temperatures measured from the SABER instrument on the TIMED satellite. The data analyzed here are confined to 20-120 km altitude and +/-40 deg latitude during 20 July 20 September, 2002. Apart from the migrating (sun-synchronous) tidal components, the predominant feature seen (from the satellite frame) during this period is a wave-4 structure in longitude with extrema of up to +/-40-50 K at 110 km. Amplitudes and longitudes of maxima of this structure evolve as the satellite precesses in local time, and as the wave(s) responsible for this structure vary with time. The primary wave responsible for the wave-4 pattern is the eastward-propagating diurnal tide with zonal wavenumber s=3 (DE3). Its average amplitude distribution over the interval is quasi-symmetric about the equator, similar to that of a Kelvin wave, with maximum of about 20 K at 5 deg S and 110 km. DE3 is primarily excited by latent heating due to deep tropical convection in the troposphere. It is demonstrated that existence of DE3 is intimately connected with the predominant wave-4 longitude distribution of topography and land-sea difference at low latitudes, and an analogy is drawn with the strong presence of DE1 in Mars atmosphere, the predominant wave-2 topography on Mars, and the wave-2 patterns that dominate density measurements from the Mars Global Surveyor (MGS) spacecraft near 130 km. Additional diurnal, semidiurnal and terdiurnal nonmigrating tides are also revealed in the present study. These tidal components are most likely excited by nonlinear interactions between their migrating counterparts and the stationary planetary wave with s=1 known to exist in the Southern Hemisphere during this period just prior to the austral mid-winter stratospheric warming of 2002.

The Global S$_1$ Ocean Tide

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Ray, Richard D.; Egbert, G. D.

2003-01-01

The small S$_1$ ocean tide is caused primarily by diurnal atmospheric pressure loading. Its excitation is therefore unlike any other diurnal tide. The global character of $S-1$ is here determined by numerical modeling and by analysis of Topex/Poseidon satellite altimeter data. The two approaches yield reasonably consistent results, and large ( $ greater than $l\\cm) amplitudes in several regions are further confirmed by comparison with coastal tide gauges. Notwithstanding their excitation differences, S$-1$ and other diurnal tides are found to share several common features, such as relatively large amplitudes in the Arabian Sea, the Sea of Okhotsk, and the Gulf of Alaska. The most noticeable difference is the lack of an S$-1$ Antarctic Kelvin wave. These similarities and differences can be explained in terms of the coherences between near-diurnal oceanic normal modes and the underlying tidal forcings. While gravitational diurnal tidal forces excite primarily a 28-hour Antarctic-Pacific mode, the S$_1$ air tide excites several other near-diurnal modes, none of which has large amplitudes near Antarctica.

Sea level forecasts for Pacific Islands based on Satellite Altimetry

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Yoon, H.; Merrifield, M. A.; Thompson, P. R.; Widlansky, M. J.; Marra, J. J.

2017-12-01

Coastal flooding at tropical Pacific Islands often occurs when positive sea level anomalies coincide with high tides. To help mitigate this risk, a forecast tool for daily-averaged sea level anomalies is developed that can be added to predicted tides at tropical Pacific Island sites. The forecast takes advantage of the observed westward propagation that sea level anomalies exhibit over a range of time scales. The daily near-real time altimetry gridded data from Archiving, Validation, and Interpretation of Satellite Oceanographic (AVISO) is used to specify upstream sea level at each site, with lead times computed based on mode-one baroclinic Rossby wave speeds. To validate the forecast, hindcasts are compared to tide gauge and nearby AVISO gridded time series. The forecast skills exceed persistence at most stations out to a month or more lead time. The skill is highest at stations where eddy variability is relatively weak. The impacts on the forecasts due to varying propagation speed, decay time, and smoothing of the AVISO data are examined. In addition, the inclusion of forecast winds in a forced wave equation is compared to the freely propagating results. Case studies are presented for seasonally high tide events throughout the Pacific Island region.

Accurate Modelling of Surface Currents and Internal Tides in a Semi-enclosed Coastal Sea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Allen, S. E.; Soontiens, N. K.; Dunn, M. B. H.; Liu, J.; Olson, E.; Halverson, M. J.; Pawlowicz, R.

2016-02-01

The Strait of Georgia is a deep (400 m), strongly stratified, semi-enclosed coastal sea on the west coast of North America. We have configured a baroclinic model of the Strait of Georgia and surrounding coastal waters using the NEMO ocean community model. We run daily nowcasts and forecasts and publish our sea-surface results (including storm surge warnings) to the web (salishsea.eos.ubc.ca/storm-surge). Tides in the Strait of Georgia are mixed and large. The baroclinic model and previous barotropic models accurately represent tidal sea-level variations and depth mean currents. The baroclinic model reproduces accurately the diurnal but not the semi-diurnal baroclinic tidal currents. In the Southern Strait of Georgia, strong internal tidal currents at the semi-diurnal frequency are observed. Strong semi-diurnal tides are also produced in the model, but are almost 180 degrees out of phase with the observations. In the model, in the surface, the barotropic and baroclinic tides reinforce, whereas the observations show that at the surface the baroclinic tides oppose the barotropic. As such the surface currents are very poorly modelled. Here we will present evidence of the internal tidal field from observations. We will discuss the generation regions of the tides, the necessary modifications to the model required to correct the phase, the resulting baroclinic tides and the improvements in the surface currents.

Decadal-scale variation in dune erosion and accretion rates: An investigation of the significance of changing storm tide frequency and magnitude on the Sefton coast, UK

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Pye, K.; Blott, S. J.

2008-12-01

Monitoring of frontal dune erosion and accretion on the Sefton coast in northwest England over the past 50 years has revealed significant spatial and temporal variations. Previous work has shown that the spatial variations primarily reflect longshore differences in beach and nearshore morphology, energy regime and sediment budget, but the causes of temporal variations have not previously been studied in detail. This paper presents the results of work carried out to test the hypothesis that a major cause of temporal variation is changes in the frequency and magnitude of storms, surges and resulting high tides. Dune toe erosion/accretion records dating from 1958 have been compared with tide gauge records at Liverpool and Heysham. Relatively high dune erosion rates at Formby Point 1958-1968 were associated with a relatively large number of storm tides. Slower erosion at Formby, and relatively rapid accretion in areas to the north and south, occurred during the 1970's and 1980's when there were relatively few major storm tides. After 1990 rates of dune erosion at Formby increased again, and dunes to the north and south experienced slower accretion. During this period high storm tides have been more frequent, and the annual number of hours with water levels above the critical level for dune erosion has increased significantly. An increase in the rate of mean sea-level rise at both Liverpool and Heysham is evident since 1990, but we conclude that this factor is of less importance than the occurrence of extreme high tides and wave action associated with storms. The incidence of extreme high tides shows an identifiable relationship with the lunar nodal tidal cycle, but the evidence indicates that meteorological forcing has also had a significant effect. Storms and surges in the eastern Irish Sea are associated with Atlantic depressions whose direction and rate of movement have a strong influence on wind speeds, wave energy and the height of surge tides. However, preliminary analysis has indicated only a modest relationship between dune erosion/accretion rates and the North Atlantic Oscillation index.

Strait of Gibraltar as seen from STS-58

NASA Image and Video Library

1993-10-20

STS058-73-009 (18 Oct-1 Nov 1993) --- Atlantic water flowing with the tide through the Strait of Gibraltar into the Mediterranean generates internal waves as depicted in this photo. The incoming cool, less dense Atlantic water flows over the warm, more saline Mediterranean water. As the tide moves into the Strait of Gibraltar it encounters the Camarinal Sill, which is like a cliff under water, south of Camarinal Point, Spain. Internal waves are generated at the Sill and travel along the density boundary between the Atlantic water and the Mediterranean water. Internal waves have very little effect on the sea surface, except for gentle slopes and slight differences in roughness. We can see them in the Space Shuttle photos because of sunglint which reflects off the water. Internal waves smooth out some of the capillary waves at the surface in bands. The sun reflects more brightly from these smooth areas showing us the pattern of the underwater waves. The Bay of Cadiz on the southwest coast of Spain, the Rock of Gibraltar, and the Moroccan coast are also visible in this photo.

Impacts of tides on tsunami propagation due to potential Nankai Trough earthquakes in the Seto Inland Sea, Japan

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lee, Han Soo; Shimoyama, Tomohisa; Popinet, Stéphane

2015-10-01

The impacts of tides on extreme tsunami propagation due to potential Nankai Trough earthquakes in the Seto Inland Sea (SIS), Japan, are investigated through numerical experiments. Tsunami experiments are conducted based on five scenarios that consider tides at four different phases, such as flood, high, ebb, and low tides. The probes that were selected arbitrarily in the Bungo and Kii Channels show less significant effects of tides on tsunami heights and the arrival times of the first waves than those that experience large tidal ranges in inner basins and bays of the SIS. For instance, the maximum tsunami height and the arrival time at Toyomaesi differ by more than 0.5 m and nearly 1 h, respectively, depending on the tidal phase. The uncertainties defined in terms of calculated maximum tsunami heights due to tides illustrate that the calculated maximum tsunami heights in the inner SIS with standing tides have much larger uncertainties than those of two channels with propagating tides. Particularly in Harima Nada, the uncertainties due to the impacts of tides are greater than 50% of the tsunami heights without tidal interaction. The results recommend simulate tsunamis together with tides in shallow water environments to reduce the uncertainties involved with tsunami modeling and predictions for tsunami hazards preparedness. This article was corrected on 26 OCT 2015. See the end of the full text for details.

A synopsis of X-band radar-derived results from New River Inlet, NC (May 2012): Wave transformation, bathymetry, and tidal currents

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Honegger, D. A.; Haller, M. C.; Diaz Mendez, G. M.; Pittman, R.; Catalan, P. A.

2012-12-01

Land-based X-band marine radar observations were collected as part of the month-long DARLA-MURI / RIVET-DRI field experiment at New River Inlet, NC in May 2012. Here we present a synopsis of preliminary results utilizing microwave radar backscatter time series collected from an antenna located 400 m inside the inlet mouth and with a footprint spanning 1000 m beyond the ebb shoals. Two crucial factors in the forcing and constraining of nearshore numerical models are accurate bathymetry and offshore variability in the wave field. Image time series of radar backscatter from surface gravity waves can be utilized to infer these parameters over a large swath and during times of poor optical visibility. Presented are radar-derived wavenumber vector maps obtained from the Plant et al. (2008) algorithm and bathymetric estimates as calculated using Holman et al. (JGR, in review). We also evaluate the effects of tidal currents on the wave directions and depth inversion accuracy. In addition, shifts in the average wave breaking patterns at tidal frequencies shed light on depth- (and possibly current-) induced breaking as a function of tide level and tidal current velocity, while shifts over longer timescales imply bedform movement during the course of the experiment. Lastly, lowpass filtered radar image time series of backscatter intensity are shown to identify the structure and propagation of tidal plume fronts and multiscale ebb jets at the offshore shoal boundary.

Nearshore hydrodynamics at pocket beaches with contrasting wave exposure in southern Portugal

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Horta, João; Oliveira, Sónia; Moura, Delminda; Ferreira, Óscar

2018-05-01

Pocket beaches on rocky coasts with headlands that control hydro-sedimentary processes are considered to be constrained sedimentary systems, generally with limited sediment inputs. Pocket beaches face severe changes over time. Under worst-case scenarios, these changes can result in the loss of the beach, causing waves to directly attack adjacent cliffs. Studies of nearshore hydrodynamics can help to understand such changes and optimise sediment nourishment procedures. The present work contributes to the knowledge of hydrodynamic forcing mechanisms at pocket beaches by providing a comprehensive description of the nearshore circulation at two beaches with contrasting wave exposures. Two pocket beaches in southern Portugal were studied by combining field measurements of waves and currents with numerical models (STWAVE and BOUSS-2D). The aim of this analysis was to evaluate nearshore hydrodynamics under different wave exposure forcing conditions (e.g. variable wave heights/directions and different tidal levels). The results show that the beach circulation can rapidly shift from longshore-to rip-dominated depending on changes in both the offshore wave direction and tidal levels. Waves with higher obliquity (for both low and moderate wave energy conditions) tend to generate longshore circulation in all considered tidal stages, while waves with lower obliquity tend to produce rip flow with higher-velocity rip currents during low to intermediate tidal stages. The results indicate that the location and intensity of rip currents strongly depend on geomorphological constraints, that is, the control exerted by shore platforms. A larger morphological control is observed at mean sea level because most platforms are submerged/exposed during high/low tide and therefore exert less control on nearshore circulation.

Dynamics of Debris Supply and Removal from Coastal Cliffs

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Dickson, M. E.; Vann Jones, E. C.; Payo, A.; Matsumoto, H.

2016-12-01

Progress in obtaining a morphodynamic understanding of rocky shores has been limited by slow rates of change and lack of preserved evidence of erosion processes. As a result we do not have a detailed understanding of the relative contributions of failure events across the magnitude-frequency spectrum. This talk describes field experiments, supported by simple stock-flow modelling, on a coastal cliff-face in eastern New Zealand. Key features of this site are that it is composed of near-homogenous rapidly eroding mudstone, and it is fronted by a wide intertidal rock platform that results in the cliff toe being exposed to waves every high tide. Several techniques were used to measure the cliff debris supply-removal system. Sediment traps at the cliff toe directly recorded rates of debris supply from the cliff-face at five discrete locations. Repeated high-resolution terrestrial laser scans over several consecutive low-tide stages documented changes in cliff-toe talus volumes along 50m of shoreline. Optical back-scatter sensors located on the rock shore platform in front of the cliff toe constrained the timing of talus-debris resuspension during tidal inundation of the cliff toe. Wave pressure gauges were used to characterise the wave field acting on the cliff. Results demonstrate that high-resolution (<5mm) laser scanning can meaningfully characterise rates of coastal cliff erosion at the very high-frequency low-magnitude end of the erosion spectrum. We find that rates of debris supply from the cliff face are dependent on the subaerial weathering system, in particular wetting and drying and associated expansion and contraction of clay minerals within the cliff rock. Rates of debris removal from the cliff toe depend on tide and wave conditions: even under low wave-energy conditions, waves at infragravity frequencies can access the cliff toe at high tide leading to sediment suspension. We explore the basic feedback structure of cliff, talus and debris removal using a simple stock-flow model, and discuss implications for progressive (ongoing) cliff erosion in the presence of an ever-widening shore platform.

Wave activity (planetary, tidal) throughout the middle atmosphere (20-100km) over the CUJO network: Satellite (TOMS) and Medium Frequency (MF) radar observations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Manson, A. H.; Meek, C. E.; Chshyolkova, T.; Avery, S. K.; Thorsen, D.; MacDougall, J. W.; Hocking, W.; Murayama, Y.; Igarashi, K.

2005-02-01

Planetary and tidal wave activity in the tropopause-lower stratosphere and mesosphere-lower thermosphere (MLT) is studied using combinations of ground-based (GB) and satellite instruments (2000-2002). The relatively new MFR (medium frequency radar) at Platteville (40° N, 105° W) has provided the opportunity to create an operational network of middle-latitude MFRs, stretching from 81° W-142° E, which provides winds and tides 70-100km. CUJO (Canada U.S. Japan Opportunity) comprises systems at London (43° N, 81° W), Platteville (40° N, 105° W), Saskatoon (52° N, 107° W), Wakkanai (45° N, 142° E) and Yamagawa (31° N, 131° E). It offers a significant 7000-km longitudinal sector in the North American-Pacific region, and a useful range of latitudes (12-14°) at two longitudes. Satellite data mainly involve the daily values of the total ozone column measured by the Earth Probe (EP) TOMS (Total Ozone Mapping Spectrometer) and provide a measure of tropopause-lower stratospheric planetary wave activity, as well as ozone variability. Climatologies of ozone and winds/tides involving frequency versus time (wavelet) contour plots for periods from 2-d to 30-d and the interval from mid 2000 to 2002, show that the changes with altitude, longitude and latitude are very significant and distinctive. Geometric-mean wavelets for the region of the 40° N MFRs demonstrate occasions during the autumn, winter and spring months when there are similarities in the spectral features of the lower atmosphere and at mesopause (85km) heights. Both direct planetary wave (PW) propagation into the MLT, nonlinear PW-tide interactions, and disturbances in MLT tides associated with fluctuations in the ozone forcing are considered to be possible coupling processes. The complex horizontal wave numbers of the longer period oscillations are provided in frequency contour plots for the TOMS satellite data to demonstrate the differences between lower atmospheric and MLT wave motions and their directions of propagation.

Wavenumber-4 structures observed in the low-latitude ionosphere during low and high solar activity periods using FORMOSAT/COSMIC observations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Onohara, Amelia Naomi; Staciarini Batista, Inez; Prado Batista, Paulo

2018-03-01

The main purpose of this study is to investigate the four-peak structure observed in the low-latitude equatorial ionosphere by the FORMOSAT/COSMIC satellites. Longitudinal distributions of NmF2 (the density of the F layer peak) and hmF2 (ionospheric F2-layer peak height) averages, obtained around September equinox periods from 2007 to 2015, were submitted to a bi-spectral Fourier analysis in order to obtain the amplitudes and phases of the main waves. The four-peak structure in the equatorial and low-latitude ionosphere was present in both low and high solar activity periods. This kind of structure possibly has tropospheric origins related to the tidal waves propagating from below that modulate the E-region dynamo, mainly the eastward non-migrating diurnal tide with wavenumber 3 (DE3, E for eastward). This wave when combined with the migrating diurnal tide (DW1, W for westward) presents a wavenumber-4 (wave-4) structure under a synoptic view. Electron densities observed during 2008 and 2013 September equinoxes revealed that the wave-4 structures became more prominent around or above the F-region altitude peak (˜ 300-350 km). The four-peak structure remains up to higher ionosphere altitudes (˜ 800 km). Spectral analysis showed DE3 and SPW4 (stationary planetary wave with wavenumber 4) signatures at these altitudes. We found that a combination of DE3 and SPW4 with migrating tides is able to reproduce the wave-4 pattern in most of the ionospheric parameters. For the first time a study using wave variations in ionospheric observations for different altitude intervals and solar cycle was done. The conclusion is that the wave-4 structure observed at high altitudes in ionosphere is related to effects of the E-region dynamo combined with transport effects in the F region.

Topographic enhancement of tidal motion in the western Barents Sea

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Kowalik, Z.; Proshutinsky, A. YU.

1995-01-01

A high-resolution numerical lattice is used to study a topographically trapped motion around islands and shallow banks of the western Barents Sea caused both by the semidiurnal and diurnal tidal waves. Observations and model computations in the vicinity of Bear Island show well-developed trapped motion with distinctive tidal oscillatory motion. Numerical investigations demonstrate that one source of the trapped motion is tidal current rectification over shallow topgraphy. Tidal motion supports residual currents of the order of 8 cm/s around Bear Island and shallow Spitsbergenbanken. The structures of enhanced tidal currents for the semidiurnal components are generated in the shallow areas due to topographic amplification. In the diurnal band of oscillations the maximum current is associated with the shelf wave occurrence. Residual currents due to diurnal tides occur at both the shallow areas and the shelf slope in regions of maximum topographic gradients. Surface manifestation of the diurnal current enhancement is the local maximum of tidal amplitude at the shelf break of the order of 5 to 10 cm. Tidal current enhancement and tidally generated residual currents in the Bear Island and Spitsbergenabanken regions cause an increased generation of ice leads, ridges and, trapped motion of the ice floes.

Storm and tide influenced depositional architecture of the Pliocene-Pleistocene Chad Formation, Chad Basin (Bornu Sub-basin) NE Nigeria: A mixed fluvial, deltaic, shoreface and lacustrine complex

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Shettima, Bukar; Kyari, Aji Maina; Aji, Mallam Musa; Adams, Fatimoh Dupe

2018-07-01

Lithofacies analyses of the upper part of the Chad Formation (Bama Ridge Complex) in the Bornu Sub-basin of the Chad Basin indicated four facies associations; fluvial, deltaic, shoreface and lacustrine sequences. The fluvial sequences are composed of fining upward cycles with successive occurrence of planar crossbedded sandstone facies displaying unimodal paleocurrent system and rare mudstone facies typical of braided river system. The deltaic succession consists of both fining and coarsening upwards cycles with the former depicting fluvial setting of an upper delta plain while the later suggestive of mouth-bar sequences. The setting displays a polymodal current system of fluvial, waves, storms and tides that were primarily induced by complex interactions of seiches and lunar tides. Similar current systems devoid of fluvial patterns were reflected in the coarsening upward packages of the shoreface sequences. Lacustrine succession composed of thick bioturbated mudstone facies generally defines the base of these coarsening upward profiles, giving a fluvio-lacustrine geomorphic relief where complex interaction developed the deltaic and shoreface facies along its shorelines. Clay mineral fractions of the formation are dominantly kaolinitic, indicating a predominantly humid tropical-subtropical climatic condition during their deposition. This climatic regime falls within the African humid period of the early-mid Holocene that led to the third lacustrine transgression of the Lake Mega-Chad, whereas the subordinate smectite mineralization points to aridification that characterizes most of the post humid period to recent.

Extreme waves under Hurricane Ivan.

PubMed

Wang, David W; Mitchell, Douglas A; Teague, William J; Jarosz, Ewa; Hulbert, Mark S

2005-08-05

Hurricane Ivan, a category 4 storm, passed directly over six wave-tide gauges deployed by the Naval Research Laboratory on the outer continental shelf in the northeastern Gulf of Mexico. Waves were observed with significant wave heights reaching 17.9 meters and maximum crest-to-trough individual wave heights of 27.7 meters (91 feet). Analysis suggests that significant wave heights likely surpassed 21 meters (69 feet) and that maximum crest-to-trough individual wave heights exceeded 40 meters (132 feet) near the eyewall.

Seasonal variability of Internal tide energetics in the western Bay of Bengal

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Mohanty, S.; Rao, A. D.

2017-12-01

The Internal Waves (IWs) are generated by the flow of barotropic tide over the rapidly varying and steep topographic features like continental shelf slope, seamounts, etc. These waves are an important phenomena in the ocean due to their influence on the density structure and energy transfer into the region. Such waves are also important in submarine acoustics, underwater navigation, offshore structures, ocean mixing and biogeochemical processes, etc. over the shelf-slope region. The seasonal variability of internal tides in the western Bay of Bengal is examined by using three-dimensional MITgcm model. The numerical simulations are performed for different periods covering August-September, 2013; November-December, 2013 and March-April, 2014 representing monsoon, post-monsoon and pre-monsoon seasons respectively during which high temporal resolution observed data sets are available. The model is initially validated through the spectral estimate of density and the baroclinic velocities. From the estimate, it is found that its peak is associated with the semi-diurnal frequency at all the depths in both observations and model simulations for November-December and March-April. However in August, the estimate is found to be maximum near the inertial frequency at all available depths. EOF analysis suggests that about 70-80% of the total variance comes from Mode-1 semi-diurnal internal tide in both observations as well as in the model simulations. The phase speed, group speed and wavelength are found to be maximum for post-monsoon season compared to other two seasons. To understand the generation and propagation of internal tides over this region, barotropic-to-baroclinic M2 tidal energy conversion and energy flux are examined. The barotropic-to-baroclinic conversion occurs intensively along the shelf-slope regions and propagate towards the coast. The model simulated energy dissipation rate infers that its maximum occurs at the generation sites and hence the local mixing due to internal tide is maximum at these sites. The spatial distribution of available potential energy is found to be maximum in November (20kg/m2) in northern BoB and minimum in August (14kg/m2). The detailed energy budget calculation are made for all the seasons and results are analysed.

An extreme internal solitary wave event observed in the northern South China Sea

PubMed Central

Huang, Xiaodong; Chen, Zhaohui; Zhao, Wei; Zhang, Zhiwei; Zhou, Chun; Yang, Qingxuan; Tian, Jiwei

2016-01-01

With characteristics of large amplitude and strong current, internal solitary wave (ISW) is a major hazard to marine engineering and submarine navigation; it also has significant impacts on marine ecosystems and fishery activity. Among the world oceans, ISWs are particular active in the northern South China Sea (SCS). In this spirit, the SCS Internal Wave Experiment has been conducted since March 2010 using subsurface mooring array. Here, we report an extreme ISW captured on 4 December 2013 with a maximum amplitude of 240 m and a peak westward current velocity of 2.55 m/s. To the authors’ best knowledge, this is the strongest ISW of the world oceans on record. Full-depth measurements also revealed notable impacts of the extreme ISW on deep-ocean currents and thermal structures. Concurrent mooring measurements near Batan Island showed that the powerful semidiurnal internal tide generation in the Luzon Strait was likely responsible for the occurrence of the extreme ISW event. Based on the HYCOM data-assimilation product, we speculate that the strong stratification around Batan Island related to the strengthening Kuroshio may have contributed to the formation of the extreme ISW. PMID:27444063

Acoustic Tomography in the Canary Basin: Meddies and Tides

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Dushaw, Brian D.; Gaillard, Fabienne; Terre, Thierry

2017-11-01

An acoustic propagation experiment over 308 km range conducted in the Canary Basin in 1997-1998 was used to assess the ability of ocean acoustic tomography to measure the flux of Mediterranean water and Meddies. Instruments on a mooring adjacent to the acoustic path measured the southwestward passage of a strong Meddy in temperature, salinity, and current. Over 9 months of transmissions, the acoustic arrival pattern was an initial broad stochastic pulse varying in duration by 250-500 ms, followed eight stable, identified-ray arrivals. Small-scale sound speed fluctuations from Mediterranean water parcels littered around the sound channel axis caused acoustic scattering. Internal waves contributed more modest acoustic scattering. Based on simulations, the main effect of a Meddy passing across the acoustic path is the formation of many early-arriving, near-axis rays, but these rays are thoroughly scattered by the small-scale Mediterranean-water fluctuations. A Meddy decreases the deep-turning ray travel times by 10-30 ms. The dominant acoustic signature of a Meddy is therefore the expansion of the width of the initial stochastic pulse. While this signature appears inseparable from the other effects of Mediterranean water in this region, the acoustic time series indicates the steady passage of Mediterranean water across the acoustic path. Tidal variations caused by the mode-1 internal tides were measured by the acoustic travel times. The observed internal tides were partly predicted using a recent global model for such tides derived from satellite altimetry.

Improved Estimates of Temporally Coherent Internal Tides and Energy Fluxes from Satellite Altimetry

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Ray, Richard D.; Chao, Benjamin F. (Technical Monitor)

2002-01-01

Satellite altimetry has opened a surprising new avenue to observing internal tides in the open ocean. The tidal surface signatures are very small, a few cm at most, but in many areas they are robust, owing to averaging over many years. By employing a simplified two dimensional wave fitting to the surface elevations in combination with climatological hydrography to define the relation between the surface height and the current and pressure at depth, we may obtain rough estimates of internal tide energy fluxes. Initial results near Hawaii with Topex/Poseidon (T/P) data show good agreement with detailed 3D (three dimensional) numerical models, but the altimeter picture is somewhat blurred owing to the widely spaced T/P tracks. The resolution may be enhanced somewhat by using data from the ERS-1 (ESA (European Space Agency) Remote Sensing) and ERS-2 satellite altimeters. The ERS satellite tracks are much more closely spaced (0.72 deg longitude vs. 2.83 deg for T/P), but the tidal estimates are less accurate than those for T/P. All altimeter estimates are also severely affected by noise in regions of high mesoscale variability, and we have obtained some success in reducing this contamination by employing a prior correction for mesoscale variability based on ten day detailed sea surface height maps developed by Le Traon and colleagues. These improvements allow us to more clearly define the internal tide surface field and the corresponding energy fluxes. Results from throughout the global ocean will be presented.

A nowcast model for tides and tidal currents in San Francisco Bay, California

USGS Publications Warehouse

Cheng, Ralph T.; Smith, Richard E.

1998-01-01

National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) installed Physical Oceanographic Real-Time System (PORTS) in San Francisco Bay, California to provide observations of tides, tidal currents, and meteorological conditions. PORTS data are used for optimizing vessel operations, increasing margin of safety for navigation, and guiding hazardous material spill prevention and response. Because tides and tidal currents in San Francisco Bay are extremely complex, limited real-time observations are insufficient to provide spatial resolution for variations of tides and tidal currents. To fill the information gaps, a highresolution, robust, semi-implicit, finite-difference nowcast numerical model has been implemented for San Francisco Bay. The model grid and water depths are defined on coordinates based on Mercator projection so the model outputs can be directly superimposed on navigation charts. A data assimilation algorithm has been established to derive the boundary conditions for model simulations. The nowcast model is executed every hour continuously for tides and tidal currents starting from 24 hours before the present time (now) covering a total of 48 hours simulation. Forty-eight hours of nowcast model results are available to the public at all times through the World Wide Web (WWW). Users can view and download the nowcast model results for tides and tidal current distributions in San Francisco Bay for their specific applications and for further analysis.

Love numbers for the long-period tides estimated by VLBI

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Krásná, Hana; Böhm, Johannes; Haas, Rüdiger; Schuh, Harald

2013-04-01

Love and Shida numbers are proportionality factors characterizing the deformation of the anelastic Earth which arises as a response to external forces from the Moon and Sun. The increasing precision and quality of the Very Long Baseline Interferometry (VLBI) measurements allow determining those parameters. In particular, the long history of the VLBI data enables the estimation of Love and Shida numbers at the low frequencies of the tidal waves including the periods from 14 days to 18.6 years. In this study we analyse 27 years of VLBI measurements (1984.0 - 2011.0) following the recent IERS Conventions 2010. In several global solutions, we estimate the complex Love and Shida numbers of the solid Earth tides for the main long-period tidal waves. Furthermore, we determine the Love and Shida numbers of the rotational deformation due to polar motion, the so-called pole tide. We also focus on station displacement where still some deficiencies in the long-period signal modelling can be seen.

Daily variation of diurnal thermal tides from CHAMP and GOCE accelerometer measurements

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gasperini, Federico; Doornbos, Eelco; Forbes, Jeffrey M.; Bruinsma, Sean; Haeusler, Kathrin; Hagan, Maura

Daily migrating and non-migrating diurnal tides in exospheric temperature derived from simultaneous accelerometer measurements on CHAMP (near 300 km) and GOCE (near 260 km) are studied for the intervals November-December 2009 and March-April 2010. Neutral densities are converted to exospheric temperatures using the NRLMSISe00 empirical model and by iterating on a convenient parameter (e.g. F10.7 solar flux). This methodology is validated using NCAR TIME-GCM simulations for this period as a mock data set, and results are compared to an approach where differences between ascending and descending orbital measurements are used to estimate diurnal tides for CHAMP and GOCE separately. The tidal components analyzed are the westward-propagating components with zonal wave numbers s=1 and s=2 (DW1 and DW2) and the eastward-propagating components with s=-2 and s=-3 (DE2 and DE3). Spectral analyses are used to reveal potential planetary wave modulations of the daily tidal amplitudes.

The variability of SE2 tide extracted from TIMED/SABER observations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Li, X.; Wan, W.; Ren, Z.

2017-12-01

Based on the temperature observations of the TIMED/SABER in mesosphere/lower thermosphere region (70-110 km altitudes) and at the low latitude and midlatitude (45°S-45°N) from 2002 to 2012, the variability of the nonmigrating tide SE2 with 1 day resolution is analyzed. It is found that the climatological features (large-scale variability) of the semidiurnal nonmigrating tide with zonal wave number 2 (SE2) tide are similar with the results from the previous research works. The SE2 tide manifests mainly at the low-mid latitudes around ±30°. The northern hemisphere tidal amplitudes below 110 km are larger than the southern hemisphere tide. SE2 peaks below 110 km mainly present between 100 and 110 km altitude. The tidal amplitudes below 110 km occur a north-south asymmetry about the equator in the annual variation: in the southern hemisphere, SE2 occurs with an obvious annual variation with a maximum of tidal amplitudes in December, while in the northern one, the semiannual variations with maximum at the equinoxes. Herein, owing to the high-resolution tidal data, we could research the short-term (day-to-day) variations of SE2. We found that the day-to-day variations manifest mainly at between 100 and 110 km altitudes; it increases gradually with latitudes, and it is stronger at the low-mid latitudes; it is relatively slightly stronger around solstices than equinoxes; and it does not present a remarkably interannual variation. The SE2 day-to-day variations may be composed by the absolute amplitudes' variance and the impact of the wave phases, and the latter ones are more important.

Prey selection and foraging period of the predaceous rocky intertidal snail, Acanthina punctulata.

PubMed

Menge, Jane Lubchenco

1974-12-01

The diet and foraging period of the neogastropod Acanthina punctulata were investigated in order to test various aspects of recent optimal foraging strategy models. This intertidal snail is an actively searching predator which preys on snails and barnacles by boring a hole in the shell and rasping out the flesh. Unlike many gastropod predators, Acanthina drill its gastropod prey at a very specific location on the columella, the thickest portion of the shell. Acanthina's foraging period can be interpreted as a compromise between maximizing the energy obtained by feeding and minimizing risk of mortality from exposure to wave action. That foraging period minimizing risk of being dislodged by waves appears to be during low tide when the predators can be in shallow pools. However, prey cannot be captured and consumed during one low tide. Thus Acanthina must be exposed during some high tides, and its strategy appears to be to restrict movement while exposed. Thus search is not initiated during high tide, but drilling and prey consumption are continued during that time. A snail not drilling or consuming prey seeks the protection of crevices or large anemones during high tide. A model is presented to indicate the relative amounts of risk and net energy for Acanthina at successive low and high tides. Predictions from the model, e.g., minimizing search time to avoid being exposed for an additional high tide and no movement during high tide are supported by field data. Acanthina commences foraging at the beginning of low tide, searches initially for preferred prey, but if unsuccessful, settles for a less preferred prey and begins drilling this prey before the end of low tide. Drilling and ingestion of prey occur during the following high and sometimes low tides. These "handling times" take 95% of the total foraging time in the field, while search time takes only 5% (pursuit time is negligible). Drilling alone accounts for 48-70% of the total drilling and eating time. In the laboratory, drilling and eating time for littorine food ranged from 15-60 hrs per item. The time to drill and eat a littorine increases exponentially with prey length. Since handling and processing prey items represents such a large investment of time, Acanthina would be expected to be very selective with respect to choice of prey items. Electivity coefficients from field data suggest that littorines are preferred over barnacles. Acanthina in the laboratory optimizes the amount of biomass ingested per time by choosing larger littorines over smaller ones and by preferring the more readily drilled species.It is suggested that Acanthina obtains information about the range of prey available initially by encountering and evaluating quite a few prey before making a selection, but usually by comparing an item of prey encountered to the prey it recently ingested. This latter method should provide a basis for evaluating prey encountered and has the advantage of reducing search time, the total amount of time spent feeding and thus the high-tide time exposed to wave action.In a similar manner, the decrease in the level of acceptability of prey as search time increases represents a compromise between maximizing energy obtained and minimizing risk from mortality.

Tidal and residual currents across the northern Ryukyu Island chain observed by ferryboat ADCP

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Liu, Zhao-Jun; Nakamura, Hirohiko; Zhu, Xiao-Hua; Nishina, Ayako; Dong, Menghong

2017-09-01

Ferryboat Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) data from 2003 to 2012 are used to estimate the tidal and residual currents across the northern Ryukyu Island chain (RIC) between the islands of Okinawa and Amamioshima. In this region, the M2 tide current is the strongest tidal component, and the K1 tide current is the strongest diurnal tidal component. The corresponding maximum amplitudes are 40 and 34 cm s-1, respectively. After removal of the tidal currents, the mean volume transport, 1.5 ± 2.7 Sv, flows into the East China Sea (ECS) from the western North Pacific through four channels in this area. In an empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis performed to clarify the temporal and spatial variability of currents through the four channels, the first two EOF modes account for 71% and 18% of the total variance, respectively. The EOF1 mode shows a clear bottom-intensified mode through the deep channel, which is likely to be formed by the propagation of bottom-trapped long topographic Rossby wave caused by the impingement of westward-propagating mesoscale eddies upon the eastern slope of the northern RIC. The EOF2 mode has significant seasonal variability and may be driven by the wind stress prevailing over the Kuroshio flow region around the northern RIC in October-November. This study provides observational evidence of the water exchanges across the northern RIC, which is essential for constructing a circulation scheme in the North Pacific subtropical western boundary region.

Multiphysics and Multiscale Model Coupling Using Gerris

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Keen, T. R.; Dykes, J. D.; Campbell, T. J.

2012-12-01

This work is implementing oceanographic processes encompassing multiple physics and scales using the Gerris Flow Solver (GFS) in order to examine their interdependence and sensitivity to changes in the physical environment. The processes include steady flow due to tides and the wind, phase-averaged wave-forced flow and oscillatory currents, and sediment transport. The 2D steady flow is calculated by the Ocean module contained within GFS. This model solves the Navier-Stokes (N-S) equations using the finite volume method. The model domain is represented by quad-tree adaptive mesh refinement (AMR). A stationary wave field is computed for a specified wave spectrum is uniformly distributed over the domain as a tracer with local wind input parameterized as a source, and dissipation by friction and breaking as a sink. Alongshore flow is included by a radiation stress term; this current is added to the steady flow component from tides and wind. Wave-current interaction is parameterized using a bottom boundary layer model. Sediment transport as suspended and bed load is implemented using tracers that are transported via the advection equations. A bed-conservation equation is implemented to allow changes in seafloor elevation to be used in adjusting the AMR refinement. These processes are being coupled using programming methods that are inherent to GFS and that do not require modification or recompiling of the code. These techniques include passive tracers, C functions that operate as plug-ins, and user-defined C-type macros included with GFS. Our results suggest that the AMR model coupling method is useful for problems where the dynamics are governed by several processes. This study is examining the relative influence of the steady currents, wave field, and sedimentation. Hydrodynamic and sedimentation interaction in nearshore environments is being studied for an idealized beach and for the Sandy Duck storm of Oct. 1998. The potential behavior of muddy sediments on the inner shelf is being evaluated for cold fronts near Atchafalaya Bay in the Gulf of Mexico. Due to the complexity of the model output results, fields are loaded into ArcMAP, a GIS-based application developed by Environmental Systems Research Institute (ESRI), with additional software that facilitates analysis of the results and assessment of model performance. GFS provides output with sufficient georeferencing information to be suitable for nearly seamless ingestion by ArcMAP. Analysis tools include comparisons between data layers; these may be intra-model, inter-model, or model-observation data. The comparisons become new data layers with additional parameters such as enhancements curves, time series, and statistics.

Harmonic analysis of tides and tidal currents in South San Francisco Bay, California

USGS Publications Warehouse

Cheng, R.T.; Gartner, J.W.

1985-01-01

Water level observations from tide stations and current observations from current-meter moorings in South San Francisco Bay (South Bay), California have been harmonically analysed. At each tide station, 13 harmonic constituents have been computed by a least-squares regression without inference. Tides in South Bay are typically mixed; there is a phase lag of approximately 1 h and an amplification of 1??5 from north to south for a mean semi-diurnal tide. Because most of the current-meter records are between 14 and 29 days, only the five most important harmonics have been solved for east-west and north-south velocity components. The eccentricity of tidal-current ellipse is generally very small, which indicates that the tidal current in South Bay is strongly bidirectional. The analyses further show that the principal direction and the magnitude of tidal current are well correlated with the basin bathymetry. Patterns of Eulerian residual circulation deduced from the current-meter data show an anticlockwise gyre to the west and a clockwise gyre to the east of the main channel in the summer months due to the prevailing westerly wind. Opposite trends have been observed during winter when the wind was variable. ?? 1985.

Scattering of Internal Tides by Irregular Bathymetry of Large Extent

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Mei, C.

2014-12-01

We present an analytic theory of scattering of tide-generated internal gravity waves in a continuously stratified ocean with a randomly rough seabed. Based on the linearized approximation, the idealized case of constant mean sea depth and Brunt-Vaisala frequency is considered. The depth fluctuation is assumed to be a stationary random function of space characterized by small amplitude and correlation length comparable to the typical wavelength. For both one- and two-dimensional topography the effects of scattering on wave phase over long distances are derived explicitly by the method of multiple scales. For one-dimensional topography, numerical results are compared with Buhler-& Holmes-Cerfon(2011) computed by the method of characteristics. For two-dimensional topography, new results are presented for both statistically isotropic and anisotropic cases. In thi talk we shall apply the perturbation technique of multiple scales to treat analytically the random scattering of internal tides by gently sloped bathymetric irregularities.The basic assumptions are: incompressible fluid, infinitestimal wave amplitudes, constant Brunt-Vaisala frequency, and constant mean depth. In addition, the depth disorder is assumed to be a stationary random function of space with zero mean and small root-mean-square amplitude. The correlation length can be comparable in order of magnitude as the dominant wavelength. Both one- and two-dimensional disorder will be considered. Physical effects of random scattering on the mean wave phase i.e., spatial attenuation and wavenumber shift will be calculated and discussed for one mode of incident wave. For two dimensional topographies, statistically isotropic and anisotropic examples will be presented.

Simultaneous Observations of Atmospheric Tides from Combined in Situ and Remote Observations at Mars from the MAVEN Spacecraft

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

England, Scott L.; Liu, Guiping; Withers, Paul; Yigit, Erdal; Lo, Daniel; Jain, Sonal; Schneider, Nicholas M. (Inventor); Deighan, Justin; McClintock, William E.; Mahaffy, Paul R.;

Simultaneous generation and scattering of internal tides by ocean floor topography

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Mathur, Manikandan

2015-11-01

Internal waves play a significant role in the global energy budget of the ocean, with internal tides potentially contributing to the conversion of a large amount of mechanical energy into heat in the deep ocean. Several studies in the past decade have investigated internal tide generation and internal tide scattering by ocean floor topography, but by treating them as two separate, independent processes. In this talk, we use the recently developed Green function model (Mathur et al., J. Geophys. Res. Oceans, 119, 2165-2182, 2014), sans the WKB approximation, to quantify the extent to which internal tide generation (scattering) that results from barotropic (baroclinic) forcing on small- and large-scale topography in uniform and nonuniform stratifications is modified by the presence of a background baroclinic (barotropic) tide. Results on idealized topography, stratification and forcing will first be presented, followed by a discussion on the relevance of our studies in the real ocean scenario. The author thanks the Ministry of Earth Sciences, Government of India for financial support under the Monsoon Mission Grant MM/2014/IND-002.

Tidal energetics: Studies with a barotropic model

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Stewart, James Scott

The tidal energy from luni-solar gravitational forcing is dissipated principally through the dissipation of oceanic tides. Recent estimates using disparate methods, including analysis of satellite orbits and the timing of ancient eclipses, now indicate that this dissipation totals approximately 3.5 terawatts. However, the mechanisms and spatial distribution of this dissipation is not yet fully understood. In this work, three different aspects of tidal energetics are investigated with a variable resolution barotropic tidal model. The distribution of tidal energy, dissipation and energy flux are examined using high resolution models of several marginal seas: the European shelf, the Sea of Okhotsk, the Yellow and East China Seas, the South China Sea and the Bering Sea. Most modern tide models dissipate tidal energy with a quadratic friction parameterization of bottom friction. Since such dissipation depends nonlinearly on the velocity of the tidal current, these models dissipate primarily in shallow seas where current magnitudes are high. Without assimilating observational data, such tidal models have unreasonably high levels of tidal-period averaged kinetic and potential energies. I have added a linear friction parameterization to the traditional quadratic formulation and am able to obtain realistic tidal energy levels with an unassimilated model. The resulting model is used to investigate the tidal energetics of the recent geological past when sea level was 50 meters higher and 120 meters lower than at the present time. Long-period tides are of small enough amplitude that their energetics are an almost negligible part of the total tidal energy budget. However, the behavior of these tides yields insights into the response of the ocean to large scale forcing. We have modeled the lunar fortnightly (M f) and lunar monthly (Mm) tidal components and determined that the ratio of the Mf potential-to-kinetic energy ratio to that of Mm is about 3.9, consistent with values expected for long Rossby wave dynamics. Also, we obtain quality (Q) values for the Mf and Mm tides of 5.9 and 6.2 respectively which is consistent with recent inferences of basin circulation responses of Q of about 5.5 for 5-day synoptic forcing.

User’s Guide for Assessing Sediment Transport at Navy Facilities

DTIC Science & Technology

2007-09-01

hairy sea cucumbers (Sclerodactyla briareus), lobsters (Homarus americanus), purple sea urchins (Arbacia punctulata), and several species of crabs...Diego P. J. White CH2M HILL C. A. Jones Sea Engineering, Inc. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. SSC San Diego...similar water properties and circulation patterns. Some bays are tide-dominated, and others are wave-dominated. Tides are the rise and fall of the sea

Problems and Opportunities in the Design of Entrances to Ports and Harbors. Proceedings of a Symposium held August 13-15, 1980, Fort Belvoir, Virginia.

DTIC Science & Technology

1980-01-01

Louisiana staff Jack W, Boller, Executive Director I Donald W, Perkins, Assistant Executive Director S1. Charles A, Bookman, Staff Officer / Aurora M...wave, as in the case of the Amazon River in South America, the system may contain two or more tides at the same time. Thus, the tide may be rising or

Observation of temperatures and emission rates from the OH and O 2 nightglow over a southern high latitude station

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Chung, J.-K.; Kim, Y. H.; Won, Y.-I.; Moon, B. K.; Oh, T. H.

2006-01-01

A Spectral Airglow Temperature Imager (SATI) was operated at King Sejong Station (62°13'S, 58°47'W), Korea Antarctic Research Station during the period of March, 2002-September, 2003. We analyze rotational temperatures and emission rates of the O 2 (0-1) and OH (6-2) nightglows obtained at 67 nights with clear sky lasting more than 4 h. A spectral analysis of the dataset shows two dominant oscillations with periods of 4 and 6 h. The 6-h oscillations have a nearly constant phase, whereas the 4-h oscillations have nearly random phases. Although the harmonic periods of both oscillations are suggestive of tidal origin, the 4-h oscillation may have interference by other sources such as gravity waves. The 6-h oscillations could be interpreted as zonally symmetric non-migrating tides because migrating tides except high order modes have very weak amplitudes at high latitudes according to the classical tidal theory. For most cases of the observed oscillations the temperature peak leads the intensity peak, which is consistent with theoretical models for zonally symmetric tides, but contrary to other theoretical models for waves. It is needed to resolve among theoretical models whether or not zonally symmetric tide cause temperature variation prior to intensity variation in mesospheric airglows.

Currents and Mixing in the San Lorenzo Overflow, Northern Gulf of California

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Rosas-Villegas, Froylán.; López, Manuel; Candela, Julio

2018-02-01

The main properties of the San Lorenzo (SL) overflow are studied, using data from two nonsimultaneous ADCP moorings (located at the sill, and 5 km downstream), as well as CTD and LADCP profiles. Strong tidal currents at the sill modulate the overflow, which is not shut down during the neaps. At the downstream site, the largest flood currents are associated with colder water advected from the sill, flowing downslope, and creating an asymmetry in the semidiurnal tidal cycle. The overflow introduces a significant fortnightly harmonic at the downstream site, and delays the M2 tidal currents for more than an hour with respect to the currents at the sill. The overflow mixes with the overlying water by entrainment during its supercritical stage, reaching near-bottom velocities as high as 1.5 ms-1 and an estimated mean transport of 0.11 Sv; almost twice that estimated at the sill for the same period of the year. Estimated Froude numbers during spring tides suggest the development of an internal hydraulic jump. After relaxation of the maximum downstream currents, high-frequency temperature fluctuations, likely linked to upstream traveling waves, are consistently observed. Direct estimations of the turbulent dissipation rates were used to compute diapycnal diffusivity (Kρ) profiles. Mean estimates of Kρ, as high as 5.5 × 10-2 m2s-1, show that shear at the interface is the most significant source of cross-isopycnal mixing along the SL overflow during ebb tides.

Tide-surge Interaction Intensified by the Taiwan Strait

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zhang, Wen-Zhou; Shi, Fengyan; Hong, Hua-Sheng; Shang, Shao-Ping; Kirby, James T.

2010-06-01

The Taiwan Strait is a long and wide shelf-channel where the hydrodynamics is extremely complex, being characterized by strong tides, and where storm surges frequently occur during the typhoon season. Obvious oscillations due to tide-surge interaction were observed by tide gauges along the northern Fujian coast, the west bank of the Taiwan Strait, during Typhoon Dan (1999). Numerical experiments indicate that nonlinear bottom friction (described by the quadratic formula) is a major factor to predict these oscillations while the nonlinear advective terms and the shallow water effect have little contribution. It is found that the tide-surge interaction in the northern portion of the Taiwan Strait is intensified by the strait. Simulations based on simplified topographies with and without the island of Taiwan show that, in the presence of the island, the channel effect strengthens tidal currents and tends to align the major axes of tidal ellipses along the channel direction. Storm-induced currents are also strengthened by the channel. The pattern of strong tidal currents and storm-induced currents along the channel direction enhances tide-surge interaction via the nonlinear bottom friction, resulting in the obvious oscillations along the northern Fujian coast.

Midlatitude sporadic-E layers

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Miller, K. L.; Smith, L. G.

1976-01-01

The partially transparent echo from midlatitude sporadic E layers was recorded by ionosondes between the blanketing frequency and the maximum frequency. The theory that the midlatitude sporadic E layers are not uniform in the horizontal plane but contain localized regions of high electron density was evaluated using data obtained by incoherent scatter radar and found to provide a satisfactory explanation. The main features of midlatitude sporadic E layers are consistent with the convergence of metallic ions as described by the wind shear theory applied to gravity waves and tides. The interference of gravity waves with other gravity waves and tides can be recognized in the altitudes of occurrence and the structure of the layers. Small scale horizontal irregularities are attributed in some cases to critical level effects and in others to fluid instabilities. The convergence of a meteor trail can, under some circumstances, account for localized enhancement of the electron density in the layer.

Tidal effects on stratospheric temperature series derived from successive advanced microwave sounding units

PubMed Central

Keckhut, P; Funatsu, B M; Claud, C; Hauchecorne, A

2015-01-01

Stratospheric temperature series derived from the Advanced Microwave Sounding Unit (AMSU) on board successive NOAA satellites reveal, during periods of overlap, some bias and drifts. Part of the reason for these discrepancies could be atmospheric tides as the orbits of these satellites drifted, inducing large changes in the actual times of measurement. NOAA 15 and 16, which exhibit a long period of overlap, allow deriving diurnal tides that can correct such temperature drifts. The characteristics of the derived diurnal tides during summer periods is in good agreement with those calculated with the Global Scale Wave Model, indicating that most of the observed drifts are likely due to the atmospheric tides. Cooling can be biased by a factor of 2, if times of measurement are not considered. When diurnal tides are considered, trends derived from temperature lidar series are in good agreement with AMSU series. Future adjustments of temperature time series based on successive AMSU instruments will require considering corrections associated with the local times of measurement. PMID:26300563

Tidal effects on stratospheric temperature series derived from successive advanced microwave sounding units.

PubMed

Keckhut, P; Funatsu, B M; Claud, C; Hauchecorne, A

2015-01-01

Stratospheric temperature series derived from the Advanced Microwave Sounding Unit (AMSU) on board successive NOAA satellites reveal, during periods of overlap, some bias and drifts. Part of the reason for these discrepancies could be atmospheric tides as the orbits of these satellites drifted, inducing large changes in the actual times of measurement. NOAA 15 and 16, which exhibit a long period of overlap, allow deriving diurnal tides that can correct such temperature drifts. The characteristics of the derived diurnal tides during summer periods is in good agreement with those calculated with the Global Scale Wave Model, indicating that most of the observed drifts are likely due to the atmospheric tides. Cooling can be biased by a factor of 2, if times of measurement are not considered. When diurnal tides are considered, trends derived from temperature lidar series are in good agreement with AMSU series. Future adjustments of temperature time series based on successive AMSU instruments will require considering corrections associated with the local times of measurement.

Source Rupture Models and Tsunami Simulations of Destructive October 28, 2012 Queen Charlotte Islands, British Columbia (Mw: 7.8) and September 16, 2015 Illapel, Chile (Mw: 8.3) Earthquakes

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Taymaz, Tuncay; Yolsal-Çevikbilen, Seda; Ulutaş, Ergin

2016-04-01

The finite-fault source rupture models and numerical simulations of tsunami waves generated by 28 October 2012 Queen Charlotte Islands (Mw: 7.8), and 16 September 2015 Illapel-Chile (Mw: 8.3) earthquakes are presented. These subduction zone earthquakes have reverse faulting mechanisms with small amount of strike-slip components which clearly reflect the characteristics of convergence zones. The finite-fault slip models of the 2012 Queen Charlotte and 2015 Chile earthquakes are estimated from a back-projection method that uses teleseismic P- waveforms to integrate the direct P-phase with reflected phases from structural discontinuities near the source. Non-uniform rupture models of the fault plane, which are obtained from the finite fault modeling, are used in order to describe the vertical displacement on seabed. In general, the vertical displacement of water surface was considered to be the same as ocean bottom displacement, and it is assumed to be responsible for the initial water surface deformation gives rise to occurrence of tsunami waves. In this study, it was calculated by using the elastic dislocation algorithm. The results of numerical tsunami simulations are compared with tide gauges and Deep-ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunami (DART) buoy records. De-tiding, de-trending, low-pass and high-pass filters were applied to detect tsunami waves in deep ocean sensors and tide gauge records. As an example, the observed records and results of simulations showed that the 2012 Queen Charlotte Islands earthquake generated about 1 meter tsunami-waves in Maui and Hilo (Hawaii), 5 hours and 30 minutes after the earthquake. Furthermore, the calculated amplitudes and time series of the tsunami waves of the recent 2015 Illapel (Chile) earthquake are exhibiting good agreement with the records of tide and DART gauges except at stations Valparaiso and Pichidangui (Chile). This project is supported by The Scientific and Technological Research Council of Turkey (TUBITAK Project No: CAYDAG-114Y066).

Dynamics of internal waves on the Southeast Florida shelf: Implications for cross-shelf exchange and turbulent mixing on a barrier reef system

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Davis, Kristen Alexis

The dynamics of internal waves shoaling on the Southeast Florida shelf and the resulting stratified turbulence in the shelf bottom boundary layer are investigated using observational studies completed during the summers of 2003-2005. This work is driven by a desire to understand the effects of internal wave-driven flow and the shoreward transport of cool, nutrient-rich water masses on cross-shelf exchange, vertical mixing, and mass transfer to benthic reef organisms. Shelf sea internal wave fields are typically highly variable and dominated by wind and tidal forces. However, this is not necessarily true for outer shelf regions or very narrow shelves where remote physical processes originating over the slope or deep ocean may exert a strong influence on the internal wave climate. During the summers of 2003 and 2004 observational studies were conducted to examine the effects of a western boundary current (the Florida Current), tides, and wind on the mean currents and internal wave field on the outer Southeast Florida shelf. We present evidence that suggests that the Florida Current plays as large a role in the determination of the high frequency internal wave field as tidal forces. These observations and analyses show that it is necessary to include the forcing from the Florida Current meanders and instabilities in order to predict accurately the episodic nature of the internal wave field on the Southeast Florida shelf. Deep ocean and continental shelf processes intersect at the shelf edge and influence the exchange of water masses and their associated characteristics including heat, nutrients, sediment, and larvae across the shelf. Thus, the dynamics of cross-shelf circulation have important consequences for organisms living on the shelf. In the second phase of this work, we investigate physical mechanisms controlling the exchange of water masses during the summer season across the Southeast Florida shelf. A time series of cross-shelf transport from May to August 2003 suggests that, during the summer months, instabilities in the Florida Current and nonlinear internal waves are the primary mechanisms driving cross-shelf transport on the outer shelf Surface tide, wind, and wave-driven transport were found to be small in comparison. Additionally, this data set highlights the importance of baroclinic processes to cross-shelf transport in this region. In the last phase of my research, I sought to investigate how boundary layer dynamics over a rough coral bed were modified by shoaling internal waves and to understand the implications for mixing and mass transfer to the bed. Results are presented from an observational study of the turbulent bottom boundary layer on the outer Southeast Florida shelf in July and August 2005. Turbulence in the reef bottom boundary layer is highly variable in time and is modified by near bed flow, shear, and stratification driven by shoaling internal waves. We examined turbulence in the bottom boundary layer during a typical internal wave event and found that in addition to the episodic onshore transport of cool, subthermocline water masses, with elevated nutrient concentrations, bottom-intensified currents from shoaling internal waves can increase turbulent dissipation and mixing in the reef bottom boundary layer. Additionally, we show that estimates of flux Richardson number, calculated directly from measurements of dissipation and buoyancy flux, support the dependence of R f on turbulent intensity, epsilon/nuN 2, a relationship that has only been previously shown in laboratory and numerical work. While the importance of surface gravity waves in generating turbulent mixing and controlling mass transfer on coral reefs has been well documented in the literature, this work represents the first time the appropriate field data have been collected for a detailed dynamic analysis of the physical effects and biological implications of internal waves on reef ecosystems. Results from these studies suggest that for reef communities exposed to continental shelf and slope processes, internal waves may play an important role in cross-shelf transport and mass transfer to benthic organisms and may be essential to modeling key biological processes, the connectivity of coral populations, or designing and managing marine reserves and fisheries.

Fine scale bio-physical oceanographic characteristics predict the foraging occurrence of contrasting seabird species; Gannet (Morus bassanus) and storm petrel (Hydrobates pelagicus)

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Scott, B. E.; Webb, A.; Palmer, M. R.; Embling, C. B.; Sharples, J.

2013-10-01

As we begin to manage our oceans in much more spatial detail we must understand a great deal more about oceanographic habitat preferences of marine mobile top predators. In this unique field study we test a hypothesis on the mechanisms defining mobile predator foraging habitat characteristics by comparing temporally and spatially detailed bio-physical oceanographic data from contrasting topographical locations. We contrast the foraging locations of two very different seabird species, gannets and storm petrels, by repeatedly sampling a bank and a nearby flat area over daily tidal cycles during spring and neap tides. The results suggest that storm petrels are linked to foraging in specific locations where internal waves are produced, which is mainly on banks. These locations can also include the presence of high biomass of chlorophyll. In contrast, the location where more gannets are foraging is significantly influenced by temporal variables with higher densities of foraging birds much more likely during the neap tide than times of spring tide. The foraging times of both species was influenced by differences between the vertical layers of the water column above and below the thermocline; via either vertical shear of horizontal currents or absolute differences in speed between layers. Higher densities of foraging gannets were significantly more likely to be found at ebb tides in both bank and flat regions however over the bank, the density of foraging gannets was higher when the differences in speed between the layers were at a maximum. Both gannets and storm petrels appear to be more likely to forage when wind direction is opposed to tidal direction. This detailed understanding links foraging behaviour to predictable spatial and temporal bio-physical vertical characteristics and thus can be immediately used to explain variance and increase certainty in past abundance and distributional surveys. These results also illuminate the types of variables that should be considered when assessing potential changes to the distribution and characteristics of habitats from increased anthropogenic disturbances such as large scale offshore wind, wave and tidal renewable deployments.

Past and future drivers of increased erosion risk in the northern Gulf of Mexico

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wahl, T.; Plant, N. G.

2014-12-01

We use hourly observations of water levels from two tide gauges and wave data from three buoys to assess their relative contribution to past and potential future changes in the erosion risk for Dauphin Island, a barrier island located off the coastline of Alabama. Topographic information (i.e. beach slopes and dune toe and crest heights) is obtained from the most recent lidar survey conducted in the area in July 2013. Water levels and wave parameters (i.e. significant wave height and peak period) from the two tide gauges and three wave buoys are merged into single records spanning the period from 1981 to 2013. The Stockdon et al. (2006) run-up model is used to estimate the 2% exceedance values of wave run-up maxima, which are then combined with the observed water levels at the representative tide gauge site to obtain total water levels (TWLs). With this information we assess the relative contribution of geocentric sea level rise, vertical land-movement, and long-term changes in the wave parameters to the observed increase in erosion risk. The latter is approximated using the concept of impact hours per year (IHPY; Ruggiero 2013) at dune toe and dune crest elevation thresholds derived from the lidar data. Wahl et al. (2014) recently discovered a significant increase in the amplitude of the seasonal sea level cycle in the Gulf of Mexico. Here, we explore the potential of these changes, and similar developments in the seasonal cycle of the wave data and corresponding IHPY, to affect coastal erosion. Such intra-annual signals with longer-term variations have not been included in most earlier studies in favour of analysing the effects of annually averaged long-term trends. Finally, scenarios of potential future changes of all relevant parameters are used to explore their relative contribution to further increase in the coastal erosion risk over the next few decades.

The Formation and Fate of Internal Waves in the South China Sea

DTIC Science & Technology

2015-11-05

FOf’miiiiiiM and Fate at Internal Waves In the South •C:hln;~t Sea --- --------· . _.,.. --- -------Author(s) Name{s) (Firsi,MI,La$t), Code, Atfi(iation...Tswen-Yung (David) Tang7 Internal gravity waves , the subsurface analogue of the familiar surface gravity waves that break on beaches, are ubiquitous in...for man-made structures in the ocean4. Generated primarily by the wind and the tides, internal waves can travel thousands of kilometres from their

Observations and modeling of surf zone transverse finger bars at the Gold Coast, Australia

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ribas, F.; Doeschate, A. ten; de Swart, H. E.; Ruessink, B. G.; Calvete, D.

2014-08-01

The occurrence and characteristics of transverse finger bars at Surfers Paradise (Gold Coast, Australia) have been quantified with 4 years of time-exposure video images. These bars are attached to the inner terrace and have an oblique orientation with respect to the coastline. They are observed during 24 % of the study period, in patches up to 15 bars, with an average lifetime of 5 days and a mean wavelength of 32 m. The bars are observed during obliquely incident waves of intermediate heights. Bar crests typically point toward the incoming wave direction, i.e., they are up-current oriented. The most frequent beach state when bars are present (43 % of the time) is a rhythmic low-tide terrace and an undulating outer bar. A morphodynamic model, which describes the feedback between waves, currents, and bed evolution, has been applied to study the mechanisms for finger bar formation. Realistic positive feedback leading to the formation of the observed bars only occurs if the sediment resuspension due to roller-induced turbulence is included. This causes the depth-averaged sediment concentration to decrease in the seaward direction, enhancing the convergence of sediment transport in the offshore-directed flow perturbations that occur over the up-current bars. The longshore current strength also plays an important role; the offshore root-mean-square wave height and angle must be larger than some critical values (0.5 m and 20∘, respectively, at 18-m depth). Model-data comparison indicates that the modeled bar shape characteristics (up-current orientation) and the wave conditions leading to the bar formation agree with data, while the modeled wavelengths and migration rates are larger than the observed ones. The discrepancies might be because in the model we neglect the influence of the large-scale beach configuration.

Geodetic infrastructure at the Barcelona harbour for sea level monitoring

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Martinez-Benjamin, Juan Jose; Gili, Josep; Lopez, Rogelio; Tapia, Ana; Pros, Francesc; Palau, Vicenc; Perez, Begona

2015-04-01

The presentation is directed to the description of the actual geodetic infrastructure of Barcelona harbour with three tide gauges of different technologies for sea level determination and contribution to regional sea level rise and understanding past and present sea level rise in the Barcelona harbour. It is intended that the overall system will constitute a CGPS Station of the ESEAS (European Sea Level) and TIGA (GPS Tide Gauge Benchmark Monitoring) networks. At Barcelona harbour there is a MIROS radar tide gauge belonging to Puertos del Estado (Spanish Harbours).The radar sensor is over the water surface, on a L-shaped structure which elevates it a few meters above the quay shelf. 1-min data are transmitted to the ENAGAS Control Center by cable and then sent each 1 min to Puertos del Estado by e-mail. The information includes wave forescast (mean period, significant wave height, sea level, etc.This sensor also measures agitation and sends wave parameters each 20 min. There is a GPS station Leica Geosystems GRX1200 GG Pro and antenna AX 1202 GG. The Control Tower of the Port of Barcelona is situated in the North dike of the so-called Energy Pier in the Barcelona harbor (Spain). This tower has different kind of antennas for navigation monitoring and a GNSS permanent station. As the tower is founded in reclaimed land, and because its metallic structure, the 50 m building is subjected to diverse movements, including periodic fluctuations due to temperature changes. In this contribution the 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014 the necessary monitoring campaigns are described. In the framework of a Spanish Space Project, the instrumentation of sea level measurements has been improved by providing the Barcelona site with a radar tide gauge Datamar 2000C from Geonica S.L. in June 2014 near an acoustic tide gauge from the Barcelona Harbour installed in 2013. Precision levelling has been made several times in the last two years because the tower is founded in reclaimed land and a little far away from the geographic location of the pulse and acustic radar location on the Europa bridge. The measured settlement rate is about 1cm/year that may be could mask the values registered by the tide gauge. An intercomparison of the results of the three different tide gauges is presented and discussed. These activities has been received funding of the Ministerio de Ciencia e Innovacion under Spanish National Project CGL2009-13435/CLI.

Measurement of tidal and residual currents in the Strait of Hormuz

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Azizpour, Jafar; Siadatmousavi, Seyed Mostafa; Chegini, Vahid

2016-09-01

Quantifying the current in the Strait of Hormuz (SH) is vital for understanding the circulation in the Persian Gulf. To measure the current in the strait, four subsurface moorings were deployed at four different stations close to SH from early November 2012 to the end of January 2013. Tidal current were dominant in the SH. The tides in the SH were complex partially standing waves and the dominant pattern varied from being primarily semi-diurnal to diurnal. The phase difference between tidal constituents of current and sea level elevation time series was used as an index to show the partially progressive wave pattern inside the study area. At mooring positions 3 and 4, located to the left of SH, the phase differences were close to 160° and 100°, respectively. It indicates partially progressive waves in opposite direction at these stations. K1 and M2 were the two main constituents at all stations inside the study area. At surface, the magnitude of semi-major axis of ellipses for M2 constituent was larger than corresponding value for K1 whereas at the bottom layer, the opposite pattern was observed. The M2 rotary coefficients at mooring 1 illustrated that current vector at the bottom layer rotated in opposite direction compared to current vectors at the middle and surface layers. The rotation was counterclockwise in the bottom layer, while it was clockwise in the surface and middle layers.

Temporally Dynamic, Spatially Static, Cobble Bedforms In Reversing Subtidal Currents

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Abdulkade, Akirat; Carling, Paul; Zong, Quanli; Leyland, Julian; Thompson, Charlie

2016-04-01

Cobble bedforms, transverse to the reversing tidal currents, are exposed at extreme low-water Spring tides on an inter-tidal bedrock shelf in the macro-tidal Severn Estuary, UK. Near-bed flow velocities during Spring tides can exceed 1.5m/s, with water depths varying from zero to in excess of 10m. During neap tides the bedforms are not exposed, and sediment is expected to be of limited mobility. When exposed, the bedform geometry tends to be asymmetric; orientated down estuary with the ebb current. During Spring tides, vigorous bedload transport of gravel (including large cobbles) occurs during both flood and ebb over the crests and yet, despite this temporal dynamism, the bedforms remain spatially static over long time periods or show weak down-estuary migration. Stasis implies that the tidal bedload transport vectors are essentially in balance. Near-bed shear stress and bed roughness values vary systematically with the Spring-tide current speeds and the predicted grain-size of the bed load using the Shields criterion is in accord with observed coarser grain-sizes in transport. These hydrodynamic data, delimited by estimates of the threshold of motion, and integrated over either flood or ebb tides are being used to explain the apparent stability of the bedforms. The bulk hydraulic data are supplemented by particle tracer studies and laser-scanning of bed configurations between tides. The high-energy environment results in two forms of armouring. Pronounced steep imbrication of platy-cobbles visible on the exposed up-estuary side of dunes is probably disrupted during flood tides leading to rapid reworking of the toe deposits facing up-estuary. In contrast, some crest and leeside locations have been stable for prolonged periods such that closely-fitted fabrics result; these portions of the bedforms are static and effectively are 'armour-plated'. Ebb-tide deposits of finer, ephemeral sandy-units occur on the down estuary side of the bedforms. Sandy-units (although not observed at low tide) presumably also are deposited on the up estuary side during flooding tides but these deposits are destroyed by ebb flows. The implication of these sediment transport processes on the stratification of the bedforms is considered.

Longitudinal Variation of the Lunar Tide in the Equatorial Electrojet

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Yamazaki, Yosuke; Stolle, Claudia; Matzka, Jürgen; Siddiqui, Tarique A.; Lühr, Hermann; Alken, Patrick

2017-12-01

The atmospheric lunar tide is one known source of ionospheric variability. The subject received renewed attention as recent studies found a link between stratospheric sudden warmings and amplified lunar tidal perturbations in the equatorial ionosphere. There is increasing evidence from ground observations that the lunar tidal influence on the ionosphere depends on longitude. We use magnetic field measurements from the CHAMP satellite during July 2000 to September 2010 and from the two Swarm satellites during November 2013 to February 2017 to determine, for the first time, the complete seasonal-longitudinal climatology of the semidiurnal lunar tidal variation in the equatorial electrojet intensity. Significant longitudinal variability is found in the amplitude of the lunar tidal variation, while the longitudinal variability in the phase is small. The amplitude peaks in the Peruvian sector (˜285°E) during the Northern Hemisphere winter and equinoxes, and in the Brazilian sector (˜325°E) during the Northern Hemisphere summer. There are also local amplitude maxima at ˜55°E and ˜120°E. The longitudinal variation is partly due to the modulation of ionospheric conductivities by the inhomogeneous geomagnetic field. Another possible cause of the longitudinal variability is neutral wind forcing by nonmigrating lunar tides. A tidal spectrum analysis of the semidiurnal lunar tidal variation in the equatorial electrojet reveals the dominance of the westward propagating mode with zonal wave number 2 (SW2), with secondary contributions by westward propagating modes with zonal wave numbers 3 (SW3) and 4 (SW4). Eastward propagating waves are largely absent from the tidal spectrum. Further study will be required for the relative importance of ionospheric conductivities and nonmigrating lunar tides.

Establishing storm thresholds for the Spanish Gulf of Cádiz coast

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Del Río, Laura; Plomaritis, Theocharis A.; Benavente, Javier; Valladares, María; Ribera, Pedro

2012-03-01

In this study critical thresholds are defined for storm impacts along the Spanish coast of the Gulf of Cádiz. The thresholds correspond to the minimum wave and tide conditions necessary to produce significant morphological changes on beaches and dunes and/or damage on coastal infrastructure or human occupation. Threshold definition was performed by computing theoretical sea-level variations during storms and comparing them with the topography of the study area and the location of infrastructure at a local level. Specifically, the elevations of the berm, the dune foot and the entrance of existing washovers were selected as threshold parameters. The total sea-level variation generated by a storm event was estimated as the sum of the tidal level, the wind-induced setup, the barometric setup and the wave-associated sea-level variation (wave setup and runup), assuming a minimum interaction between the different processes. These components were calculated on the basis of parameterisations for significant wave height (Hs) obtained for the oceanographic and environmental conditions of the Gulf of Cadiz. For this purpose real data and reanalysis time-series (HIPOCAS project) were used. Validation of the obtained results was performed for a range of coastal settings over the study area. The obtained thresholds for beach morphological changes in spring tide conditions range between a significant wave height of 1.5 m and 3.7 m depending on beach characteristics, while for dune foot erosion are around 3.3 to 3.7 m and for damage to infrastructure around 7.2 m. In case of neap tide conditions these values are increased on average by 50% over the areas with large tidal range. Furthermore, records of real damage in coastal infrastructure caused by storms were collected at a regional level from newspapers and other bibliographic sources and compared with the hydrodynamic conditions that caused the damage. These were extracted from the hindcast database of the HIPOCAS project, including parameters such as storm duration, mean and maximum wave height and wave direction. Results show that the duration of the storm is not critical in determining the occurrence of coastal damage in the regional study area. This way, the threshold would be defined as a duration ≥30 h, with moderate average wave height (≥3.3 m) and high maximum wave height (≥4.1 m) approaching from the 3rd and 4th quadrants, during mean or spring tide situation. The calculated thresholds constitute snapshots of risk conditions within a certain time framework. Beach and nearshore zones are extremely dynamic, and also the characteristics of occupation on the coast change over time, so critical storm thresholds will change accordingly and therefore will need to be updated.

Morphodynamics of an eroding beach and foredune in the Mekong River delta: Implications for deltaic shoreline change

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Anthony, E. J.; Dussouillez, P.; Dolique, F.; Besset, M.; Brunier, G.; Nguyen, V. L.; Goichot, M.

2017-09-01

River delta shorelines composed of sand may be characterized by complex spatial and temporal patterns of erosion and accretion even when sand supply is readily available. This is especially the case for deltas with multiple mouths subject to significant wave and tide influence. High-resolution topographical and wave and current measurements were conducted from 2010 to 2012 at Ba Dông beach, a popular resort located on the largest of the multiple inter-distributary plains of the Mekong River delta. Ba Dông beach is a mesotidal, multiple bar-trough system. The upper beach corresponds to the current active beach ridge in the sequence of ridges that have marked the progradation of the inter-distributary delta plains, and is capped by a low foredune that protects villages and agricultural land from marine flooding. During the low river-flow season, the beach is characterized by Northeast monsoon waves and strong longshore currents that transport sediment towards the southwest. Weaker longshore currents towards the northeast are generated by Southwest monsoon waves during the high river-flow season. Ba Dông beach underwent strong erosion between 2010 and 2012, following a phase of massive accretion. In 2012, this erosion resulted in breaching of the foredune, contributing to concerns that the Mekong delta had become vulnerable to retreat. The local erosion at Ba Dông needs to be considered, however, in the broader context of delta shoreline morphodynamics, which involves space- and time-varying patterns of beach accretion and erosion. These patterns are the present expressions of plan-view beach-ridge morphology in the delta, which is characterized by flaring and truncations that reflect changing beach morphodynamics in the course of deltaic progradation. We surmise that these patterns are related to complex interactions involving river water and sediment discharge, waves and wave-generated longshore currents, tidal currents, and shoreline orientation.

Processes forcing the suspended sediments distribution in a wide, shallow and microtidal estuary: a numerical case study for the Río de la Plata

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Simionato, Claudia; Moreira, Diego

2017-04-01

The impact of the diverse mechanisms driving the suspended sediments distribution in the wide, shallow and microtidal Río de la Plata (RdP) estuary and the adjacent shelf is studied by means of a set of process-oriented numerical simulations. With that aim, a regional application of the hydro-sedimentological Model for Applications at Regional Scale (MARS) is implemented, tested and run under diverse conditions. Even the simulations are idealized, they reproduce both qualitatively and quantitatively well the main features of the suspended sediments observed distribution, particularly the mean values of concentration and its gradients: perpendicular to the estuary axis at the upper and intermediate RdP and parallel to the estuary axis at its outer part. Even though naturally the diameter of the sediments that deposit decays with the distance to the sources (with sands and silts dominating in the upper estuary and fine silts and clays over the Barra del Indio), model results show that the large width and the geometry of the estuary play an important role in the sedimentation process. The widening and deepening, and the associated significant reduction of the currents speed that occurs after (i) the confluence of the tributaries and (ii) downstream the Barra del Indio Shoal, favors sediments deposition downstream those areas. Even though tides are of small amplitude in the study area, they have a significant impact on the lateral mixing and the re-suspension of bottom sediments; this last augments the concentration of fine sediments in the layers close to the bottom but their energy is not enough to rise them up to the surface. The model reproduces the increment in the concentration of fine sediments observed in the areas where tidal dissipation energy by bottom friction maximizes (over the southern coast of the RdP and around Punta Piedras and Punta Rasa), but shows that tides alone cannot account for the observed maxima. Winds (which can be quite large over this area) enhance horizontal mixing, smoothing the pattern produced by the tides. Wind waves are the most important forcing for the vertical mixing of the sediments. Their effect is most evident along the southern coast of the RdP and the Barra del Indio Shoal, where wind waves rise to the surface the sediments resuspended by tides. The bottom salinity front acts retaining the sediments upstream the Barra del Indio shoal; there, estuarine currents and flocculation play an important role in sediments deposition.

State dynamics of a double sandbar system

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Price, T. D.; Ruessink, B. G.

2011-04-01

A 9.3-year dataset of low-tide time-exposure images from Surfers Paradise, Northern Gold Coast, Australia was used to characterise the state dynamics of a double sandbar system. The morphology of the nearshore sandbars was described by means of the sequential bar state classification scheme of Wright and Short [1984. Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis. Marine Geology 56, 93-118]. Besides the two end members (the dissipative (D) and the reflective (R) states) and the four intermediate states (longshore bar and trough (LBT), rhythmic bar and beach (RBB), transverse bar and rip (TBR) and low tide terrace (LTT)), we identified two additional intermediate bar states. The erosive transverse bar and rip (eTBR) state related to the dominant oblique angle of wave incidence at the study site and the rhythmic low tide terrace (rLTT) related to the multiple bar setting. Using the alongshore barline variability and alongshore trough continuity as morphological indicators enabled the objective classification of the inner and outer bar states from the images. The outer bar was mostly in the TBR state and generally advanced sequentially through the states LBT-RBB-TBR-eTBR-LBT, with occasional transitions to the D state. Wave events led to abrupt state transitions of the outer bar, but, in contrast to expectations, did not necessarily correspond to upstate transitions. Instead, upstate (downstate) transitions coincided with angles of wave incidence θ larger (smaller) than 30°. The upstate TBR-eTBR-LBT sequence during high-angle events highlights the role of alongshore currents in bar straightening. The outer bar was found to govern the state of the inner bar to a large extent. Two types of inner bar behaviour were distinguished, based on the outer bar state. For intermediate outer bar states, the alongshore variability of the dominant inner rLTT state (52% in time) mainly related to that of the outer bar, implying some sort of morphological coupling. For dissipative outer bar states, however, the more upstate inner bar frequently separated from the shoreline and persistently developed rip channels as TBR became the most frequent state (60% in time).

Operational Forecasting and Warning systems for Coastal hazards in Korea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Park, Kwang-Soon; Kwon, Jae-Il; Kim, Jin-Ah; Heo, Ki-Young; Jun, Kicheon

2017-04-01

Coastal hazards caused by both Mother Nature and humans cost tremendous social, economic and environmental damages. To mitigate these damages many countries have been running the operational forecasting or warning systems. Since 2009 Korea Operational Oceanographic System (KOOS) has been developed by the leading of Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology (KIOST) in Korea and KOOS has been operated in 2012. KOOS is consists of several operational modules of numerical models and real-time observations and produces the basic forecasting variables such as winds, tides, waves, currents, temperature and salinity and so on. In practical application systems include storm surges, oil spills, and search and rescue prediction models. In particular, abnormal high waves (swell-like high-height waves) have occurred in the East coast of Korea peninsula during winter season owing to the local meteorological condition over the East Sea, causing property damages and the loss of human lives. In order to improve wave forecast accuracy even very local wave characteristics, numerical wave modeling system using SWAN is established with data assimilation module using 4D-EnKF and sensitivity test has been conducted. During the typhoon period for the prediction of sever waves and the decision making support system for evacuation of the ships, a high-resolution wave forecasting system has been established and calibrated.

Stream-water storage in the ocean using an impermeable membrane

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Murabayashi, E. T.; Asuka, M.; Yamada, R.; Fok, Y. S.; Gee, H. K.

1983-05-01

The conceptual feasibility of storing fresh water in the ocean was investigated using a plastic membrane as the reservoir liner. In the initial phase, two physical hydraulic models were constructed to test the concept. The first was a water-filled, glass-sided box to observe the movement and reaction of the membrane to various simulated effects of currents, waves, and sediment deposition. The second was a 1:400-scale model (6.7 x 6.1 m) of West Loch, Pearl Harbor (a potential field application site), with 1:24 vertical exaggeration for similitude. The curtain method was used because it can enclose a large water body. The effect of wind, waves, tides, and currents on the curtain were simulated and the reactions observed. Although modeling is a useful tool for investigating initial concepts, its direct field application is limited because of scaling. Curtains, floating reservoirs, and bags were constructed of polyethylene sheets and deployed. All worked well after modifications were made following initial testing.

Geomorphic modeling of macro-tidal embayment with extensive tidal flats: Skagit Bay, Washington

DTIC Science & Technology

2012-09-30

integrated Delft3D-MOR submodel. Measured river discharge, predicted tides, bathymetry, wind , and density-driven flow were incorporated into the model...supplied with sediment initially. Water temperature and salinity at the tidal boundary were adapted from (Moore et al., 2008). Wind forcing was...tide range varied from 2.4 m at Deception Pass to 3.5 m at Crescent Harbor. Because observations have indicated that wind -generated waves may be

Toward a Predictive Model of Arctic Coastal Retreat in a Warming Climate, Beaufort Sea, Alaska

DTIC Science & Technology

2011-09-30

level by waves and surge and tide. Melt rate is governed by an empirically based iceberg melting algorithm that includes explicitly the roles of wave...Thermal erosion of a permafrost coastline: Improving process-based models using time-lapse photography, Arctic Alpine Antarctic Research 43(3): 474

Resourcing Teachers to Tide the Semantic Wave to Whole School Literacy Development

ERIC Educational Resources Information Center

Humphrey, S.; Robinson, S.

2012-01-01

In this paper we report on a whole school literacy research project, Embedding Literacies in the KLA's (ELK). The starting point for this endeavour is the theory of knowledge development conceptualised within the sociology of education as the semantic wave (Maton, forthcoming). As discipline knowledge typically resides in the "high…

Effects of the 26 December 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami in the Republic of Seychelles

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Jackson, L. E.; Barrie, J. V.; Forbes, D. L.; Shaw, J.; Manson, G. K.; Schmidt, M.

2005-12-01

The Dec. 26, 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami impacted Mahé and Praslin islands as a sequence of waves at intervals of tens of minutes to hours. The first tsunami wave struck at low tide, but others occurred through several tidal cycles, so that some subsequent waves arrived at high tide. The first indication of the tsunami on the Mahé tide gauge (sampling interval 4 minutes) was a rise in water level to lower than higher high water at large tides between 08:08 and 08:12 UTC(between 12:08 and 12:12 local time). This was followed by a maximum withdrawal of water in all areas. This level was not recorded by the tide gauge at Mahé, because the stilling well went dry, but evidence from observers indicates that it dropped as much as 4 m below mean sea level. The subsequent highest water levels, highest run-ups, and maximum distances inland that tsunami flooding reached were in coastal lowlands generally facing east toward the source of the tsunami. The highest flood levels on Mahé ranged from ~1.6 m to >4.4 m above mean sea level. On Praslin, they ranged from ~1.8 m to 3.6 m. The shallow (<200 m) shelf platform surrounding the granitic islands played an important role in determining the tsunami wave direction and amplitude at the shoreline. The shoaling waves were refracted, causing them to approach the islands from various directions, and amplified so as to cause higher run-up in specific coastal embayments. Consequently, tsunami inundation and damage were not confined to east-facing shores. Run-up and damage were locally as severe along shores of Mahé and Praslin facing away from the source of the tsunami. Some observers on the west sides of both islands reported water approaching from two directions (northwest and southeast). Furthermore, the timing of maximum inundation varied around the archipelago as tsunami waves arrived at different times in the tidal cycle: the maximum inundation at Anse-à-la-Mouche (on the west side of Mahé) occurred about 4 hours after the initial tsunami wave reached the archipelago, whereas the highest water level in the city of Victoria (on the northeast side of Mahé) occurred about 16 hours after the first arrival (but with much lower wave energy). Damage to public works was greatest in the Victoria area. Lateral spread failures developed in artificial fills forming the fishing port. Liquefaction was induced in these fills by cyclic inundation, saturation and rapid draw-down. Washouts occurred on two sections of highway causeway crossing reclaimed land south of Victoria due to the rapid drainage of tsunami floodwaters. Similar erosion caused structural failure of hotel buildings on Praslin. Elsewhere, the greatest damage was coincident with preexisting modification of the coast by development including: removal of natural beach berms, construction of hotel structures adjacent to the high-water mark or seaward over the beach, and placement of roads immediately adjacent to beaches. The damaging effects of the tsunami were confined to the granitic islands of Seychelles archipelago. The lack of impact on the atolls is due to the deep water surrounding them: this resulted in minimal shoaling and amplification of the long wavelength and low-amplitude tsunami waves.

Sensitivity Analysis of Delft3d Simulations at Duck, NC, USA

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Penko, A.; Boggs, S.; Palmsten, M.

2017-12-01

Our objective is to set up and test Delft3D, a high-resolution coupled wave and circulation model, to provide real-time nowcasts of hydrodynamics at Duck, NC, USA. Here, we test the sensitivity of the model to various parameters and boundary conditions. In order to validate the model simulations we compared the results to observational data. Duck, NC was chosen as our test site due to the extensive array of observational oceanographic, bathymetric, and meteorological data collected by the Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility (FRF). Observations were recorded with Acoustic Wave and Current meters (AWAC) at 6-m and 11-m depths as well as a 17-m depth Waverider buoy. The model is set up with an outer and inner nested domain. The outer grid extends 12-km in the along-shore and 3.5-km in the cross-shore with a 50-m resolution and a maximum depth of 17-m. Spectral wave measurements from the 17-m Waverider buoy drove Delft3D-WAVE in the outer grid. We compared the results of five outer grid simulations to wave and current observations collected at the FRF. The model simulations are then compared to the wave and current measurements collected at the 6-m and 11-m AWACs. To determine the best parameters and boundary conditions for the model set up at Duck, we calculated the root mean square error (RMSE) between the simulation results and the observations. Several conclusions were made: 1) The addition of astronomic tides have a significant effect on the circulation magnitude and direction, 2) incorporating an updated bathymetry in the bottom boundary condition has a small effect in shallower (<8-m) depths, 3) decreasing the wave bed friction by 50% did not affect the wave predictions and 4) the accuracy of the simulated wave heights improved as wind and wave forcing at the lateral boundaries were included.

Bottom currents and sediment waves on a shallow carbonate shelf, Northern Carnarvon Basin, Australia

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Belde, Johannes; Reuning, Lars; Back, Stefan

2017-04-01

The modern seafloor of the Australian Northwest Shelf between Exmouth and Dampier was analyzed for large scale sedimentary bedforms on 3D seismic reflection data. The Carnarvon MegaSurvey of Petroleum Geo-Services (PGS), a merged dataset of multiple industrial 3D seismic reflection surveys with a total size of 49,717 km2, offers an extensive view of the continental shelf, slope and rise of the Northern Carnarvon Basin. Over the shelf two fields of large scale sediment waves were observed in water depths between 55-130 m, where the seafloor may be influenced by different processes including internal waves, tides and storms. Based on the dimensions and orientations of the sediment waves the dominant direction and approximate strength of local bottom currents could be estimated. Information on local sediment grain-size distribution was provided by the auSEABED database allowing a classification of the observed sediment waves into sand- or mudwaves. The first sediment wave field is positioned northwest of the Montebello Islands where the shelf is comparatively narrow and local sediment is mainly sand-sized. It most likely formed by increased bottom currents induced by the diversion of tidal flows around the islands. The second sediment wave field is located north of the Serrurier and Bessieres Islands within a local seafloor depression. Local sediments are poorly sorted, containing significant amounts of mud and gravel in addition to the mainly sand-sized grains. The coarser sediment fraction could have been reworked to sandwaves by cyclone-induced bottom currents. Alternatively, the finer sediment fraction could form mudwaves shaped by less energetic along-slope oriented currents in the topographic depression. The sediment waves consist partially of carbonate grains such as ooids and peloids that formed in shallow water during initial stages of the post glacial sea-level rise. These stranded carbonate grains thus formed in a different environment than the sediment waves in which they were redeposited. In fossil examples of similar high-energy ramp systems this possible out-of-equilibrium relationship between grains and bedforms has to be taken into account for the interpretation of the depositional environment.

Atmospheric parameters in the mesosphere and lower thermosphere estimated using the Platteville, CO (40°N, 105°W) interferometric meteor radars

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

de La Pena, Santiago

Two interferometric meteor radars operating at different frequencies have been collecting data for several years at the Platteville Atmospheric Observatory. Meteor decay rates measured by the two systems have been analyzed with the purpose of comparing estimates of the ambipolar diffusion in meteors made with the radars. Ambipolar diffusion is the main dispersion process for meteors. Due to its dependence on atmospheric conditions, it has been used in recent studies to estimate meteor height, and atmospheric temperature and pressure. The results of the comparison made shed light on the conditions under which meteor decay rates can be used to estimate ambipolar diffusion. The response of the two systems to sporadic and shower meteor activity was analyzed and discussed. The radars show similar temporal distributions of the echoes detected from meteor trails, but present some differences in the spatial distribution. The Statistics of the data collected by the radars present differences in the meteor echo spatial distribution between sporadic meteor activity and meteor shower events. Observations of a strong 2001 Leonid meteor storm were presented. A difference in the maximum altitude at which the radars detect meteors was seen. This limit in height is caused by a geophysical effect commonly known as meteor echo ceiling. Six years of horizontal wind estimates near the mesopause obtained from the meteor radars have been analyzed with the objective of studying the spatial and seasonal variability of the main tidal components identified in the wind structure. Interferometric capabilities allowed the estimation of the location of the detected meteor echoes, effectively providing vertical profiles of horizontal wind estimates. Spectral and harmonic analyses were made on the horizontal wind averages, and the main tidal components were identified. Diurnal and semidiurnal oscillations were found persistently, and six, 8, and 48 hour oscillations were more intermittent, but still present. A monthly climatology of the diurnal and semidiurnal tides is presented. Vertical profiles provide insight on the source and propagation characteristics of the different tides. Monthly averages of the 12 and 24 hour tides amplitudes and phases were analyzed. An 8-hour tide and a 2-day wave were analyzed when present. A linear interaction of the diurnal and semidiurnal tides was suggested as a possible cause of an 8-hour oscillation. Tidal observations were compared with the National Center for Atmospheric Research's Global Scale Wave Model (GSWM). Good agreement was found for the diurnal tide phase progression below 85-90 km. The observed diurnal tide amplitude is significantly smaller than the model predictions, especially in the meridional direction, suggesting smaller non-migrating tides. The observed semidiurnal tide amplitudes are similar to the model predictions for fall and winter, although strong amplitudes are observed during the summer months, when almost no semidiurnal tide is predicted. The observed semidiurnal tide phase progression appears irregular at times, suggesting the presence of non-migrating semidiurnal tides.

Tides at the east coast of Lanzarote Island

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Benavent, M.; Arnoso, J.; Vélez, E. J.

2012-04-01

The main goal of this work is the study of the ocean tides at the east coast of Lanzarote (Canary Islands). We have analyzed time series of tide gauge and bottom pressure observations available in the region and we have made a further comparative validation with recent global and local ocean tide models. Lanzarote island shows singular features, with regard its volcanic structure and geomorphological properties and, also, concerning the characteristics of the ocean tides in the surrounding waters. For this reason, this region experiences a great interest in Geodesy and Geodynamics. Particularly, an accurate modelization of the ocean tides is of great importance to correct with high accuracy the effect of the ocean over the multiple geodetic measurements that are being carried out in the Geodynamic Laboratory of Lanzarote, LGL (Vieira et al., 1991; 2006). Furthermore, the analysis of tide gauge and bottom pressure records in this area is of great importance to investigate sea level variations, to evaluate and quantify the causes of these changes and the possible correlation with vertical movements of the Earth's crust. The time series of sea level and bottom pressure data considered in this work are obtained at two different locations of the island and, in each of them, using several sensors at different periods of time. First location is Jameos del Agua (JA) station, which belongs to the LGL. This station is placed in the open ocean, 200 meters distant from the northeastern coast of the island and at 8 meters depth. The observations have been carried out using 3 bottom pressure sensors (Aanderaa WLR7, SAIV TD301A and Aqualogger 210PT) at different periods of time (spanning a total of six years). Second location is Arrecife (AR) station, which is 23 km south of JA station. In this case, the sea level data come from a float tide gauge belonging to the Instituto Español de Oceanografía, installed at the beginning of the loading bay, and a radar tide gauge from the REDMAR network of Puertos del Estado placed at the end of the same loading bay. Results obtained from the time series analysis at both locations, amplitude and phase of the main diurnal and semi-diurnal tidal waves, are compared with the most recent global ocean tide models, as TPXO7.2, EOT11a, HAMTIDE, FES2004, GOT4.7 and AG2006, and also with the high resolution regional ocean tide model for the Canaries CIAM2 (Arnoso et al., 2006, Benavent, 2011). Comparison of simulated harmonic constant (from global and local ocean tide model) with those obtained from tidal stations is done by means of the direct comparison between amplitudes and phase for each tidal wave and the root mean square (rms) of the differences in the complex plane. Finally the root sum square (rss) of residuals over all harmonic constituents considered is calculated.

Variabilities of Low-Latitude Migrating and Nonmigrating Tides in GPS-TEC and TIMED-SABER Temperature During the Sudden Stratospheric Warming Event of 2013

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Sridharan, S.

2017-10-01

The Global Positioning System deduced total electron content (TEC) data at 15°N (geomagnetic), which is the crest region of equatorial ionization anomaly, are used to study tidal variabilities during the 2013 sudden stratospheric warming (SSW) event. The results from space-time spectral analysis reveal that the amplitudes of migrating diurnal (DW1) and semidiurnal (SW2) tides are larger than those of nonmigrating tides. After the SSW onset, the amplitudes of DW1, SW2, SW1, and DS0 increase. Moreover, they show 16 day variations similar to the periodicity of the high-latitude stratospheric planetary wave (PW), suggesting that the nonmigrating tides (SW1 and DS0) are possibly generated due to nonlinear interaction of migrating tides with PW. Similar spectral analysis on temperature at 10°N obtained from the Sounding of Atmosphere by Broadband Emission Radiometry (SABER) shows that the SW2 enhances at stratospheric heights and the SW2 is more dominant at 80-90 km, but its amplitude decreases around 100 km. The amplitudes of nonmigrating tides become comparable to those of SW2 around 100 km, and their contribution becomes increasingly important at higher heights. This suggests that the nonlinear interaction between migrating tides and PW occurs at low-latitude upper mesospheric heights, as SW2 exhibits 16 day periodicity in SABER temperature at 100 km as observed in TEC. Besides, it is observed that the eastward propagating tides are less dominant than westward propagating tides in both TEC and SABER temperatures.

Suspended Sediment Dynamics in the Macrotidal Seine Estuary (France): 1. Numerical Modeling of Turbidity Maximum Dynamics

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Grasso, F.; Verney, R.; Le Hir, P.; Thouvenin, B.; Schulz, E.; Kervella, Y.; Khojasteh Pour Fard, I.; Lemoine, J.-P.; Dumas, F.; Garnier, V.

2018-01-01

Tidal pumping, baroclinic circulation, and vertical mixing are known to be the main mechanisms responsible for the estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) formation. However, the influence of hydro-meteorological conditions on ETM dynamics is still not properly grasped and requires further investigation to be quantified. Based on a realistic three-dimensional numerical model of the macrotidal Seine Estuary (France) that accounts for mud and sand transport processes, the objective of this study is to quantify the influence of the main forcing (river flow, tides, and waves) on the ETM location and mass changes. As expected, the ETM location is strongly modulated by semidiurnal tidal cycles and fortnightly time scales with a high sensitivity to river flow variations. The ETM mass is clearly driven by the tidal range, characteristic of the tidal pumping mechanism. However, it is not significantly affected by the river flow. Energetic wave conditions substantially influence the ETM mass by contributing up to 44% of the maximum mass observed during spring tides and by increasing the mass by a factor of 3 during mean tides compared to calm wave conditions. This means that neglecting wave forcing can result in significantly underestimating the ETM mass in estuarine environments. In addition, neap-to-spring phasing has a strong influence on ETM location and mass through a hysteresis response associated with the delay for tidal pumping and stratification to fully develop. Finally, simulations show that the uppermost limit of the Seine ETM location did not change notably during the last 35 years; however, the seaward limit migrated few kilometers upstream.

Using barometric time series of the IMS infrasound network for a global analysis of thermally induced atmospheric tides

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hupe, Patrick; Ceranna, Lars; Pilger, Christoph

2018-04-01

The International Monitoring System (IMS) has been established to monitor compliance with the Comprehensive Nuclear-Test-Ban Treaty and comprises four technologies, one of which is infrasound. When fully established, the IMS infrasound network consists of 60 sites uniformly distributed around the globe. Besides its primary purpose of determining explosions in the atmosphere, the recorded data reveal information on other anthropogenic and natural infrasound sources. Furthermore, the almost continuous multi-year recordings of differential and absolute air pressure allow for analysing the atmospheric conditions. In this paper, spectral analysis tools are applied to derive atmospheric dynamics from barometric time series. Based on the solar atmospheric tides, a methodology for performing geographic and temporal variability analyses is presented, which is supposed to serve for upcoming studies related to atmospheric dynamics. The surplus value of using the IMS infrasound network data for such purposes is demonstrated by comparing the findings on the thermal tides with previous studies and the Modern-Era Retrospective analysis for Research and Applications Version 2 (MERRA-2), which represents the solar tides well in its surface pressure fields. Absolute air pressure recordings reveal geographical characteristics of atmospheric tides related to the solar day and even to the lunar day. We therefore claim the chosen methodology of using the IMS infrasound network to be applicable for global and temporal studies on specific atmospheric dynamics. Given the accuracy and high temporal resolution of the barometric data from the IMS infrasound network, interactions with gravity waves and planetary waves can be examined in future for refining the knowledge of atmospheric dynamics, e.g. the origin of tidal harmonics up to 9 cycles per day as found in the barometric data sets. Data assimilation in empirical models of solar tides would be a valuable application of the IMS infrasound data.

Orientations and Relative Shear-strain Response Coefficients for PBO Gladwin Tensor Strainmeters from Teleseismic Love Waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Roeloffs, E. A.

2016-12-01

A Gladwin Tensor Strainmeter (GTSM) is designed to measure changes of the horizontal strain tensor, derived as linear combinations of radial elongations or contractions of the strainmeter's cylindrical housing measured at four azimuths. Each radial measurement responds to changes in the areal, horizontal shear and vertical components of the strain tensor in the surrounding formation. The elastic response coefficients to these components depend on the relative elastic moduli of the housing, formation, and cement. These coefficients must be inferred for each strainmeter after it is cemented into its borehole by analyzing the instrument response to well-characterized strain signals such as earth tides. For some GTSMs of the Earthscope Plate Boundary Observatory (PBO), however, reconciling observed earth-tide signals with modeled tidal strains requires response coefficients that differ substantially between the instrument's four gauges, and/or orientation corrections of tens of degrees. GTSM response coefficients can also be estimated from high-resolution records of teleseismic Love waves from great earthquakes around the world. Such records can be used in conjunction with apparent propagation azimuths from nearby broadband seismic stations to determine the GTSM's orientation. Knowing the orientation allows the ratios between the shear strain response coefficients of a GTSM's four gauges to be estimated. Applying this analysis to 14 PBO GTSMs confirms that orientations of some instruments differ significantly from orientations measured during installation. Orientations inferred from earth-tide response tend to agree with those inferred from Love waves for GTSMs far from tidal water bodies, but to differ for GTSMs closer to coastlines. Orientations derived from teleseismic Love waves agree with those estimated by Grant and Langston (2010) using strains from a broadband seismic array near Anza, California. PBO GTSM recordings of teleseismic Love waves show differences of more than 20% among the shear-strain response coefficients of the four gauges. Love-wave derived orientations and relative shear-strain response coefficients can reduce uncertainties in shear strains derived from PBO GTSM data.

Monitoring and Deformation Analysis of Groynes Using Tls at the River Elbe

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Tschirschwitz, F.; Mechelke, K.; Jansch, H.; Kersten, T. P.

2016-06-01

To enter the Port of Hamburg, one of Europe's busiest ports all vessels need to navigate around 145 km along the Elbe river, a tide influenced navigation channel. To protect the Elbe shoreline from erosion and to channel the waterway groynes (rigid hydraulic structures) have been built along the river. In the past years since ca. 2001 there has been a large increase in damage of groynes structural integrity at parts of the German waterways. The reason for this was determined in the ever growing size of container vessels passing by and inducing long periodical primary waves which have such a force that they erode the groynes rock structure. To analyse and improve the groynes structural resistance for vessel-induced long periodical wave loads an in-situ study is carried out at Juelssand, located at the Elbe river estuary. Over a period of two years the change of the geometrical structure of two different groyne shapes is monitored automatically by utilising two terrestrial laser scanners mounted in protective housings, located each on a 12 m high platform. The self-contained monitoring systems perform scanning of the two groynes one to two times a day at low tide, as the structures are fully submerged at high tide. The long-periodical wave loads are also determined using pressure sensors in each groyne. To correlate the captured data with vessel events and analyse the effects, vessel related parameters are recorded utilizing the Automatic Identification System (AIS). This paper describes the automated processes for the data acquisition and focusses on the deformation that is calculated using current, extended and new algorithms of the Point Cloud Library. It shows the process chain from the acquisition of raw scan files from an elevated station to the filtering of point cloud, the registration, the calculation of pointwise changes and the aggregation to a grid for later correlation with ship parameters. When working outdoor in all kinds of weather conditions, the processes and equipment need to be robust and account for various cases and situations. This is especially applicable for the algorithms, which need to be adaptable to different scenarios like wet surfaces or snow and unwelcome objects ranging from flotsam to birds sitting on the groyne. At the current stage of the research, deformation in the magnitude of a couple of decimetres is observable. The orientation and location of the deformation is on the seaward side and corresponds to the lower distance of vessels leaving the harbour.

Internal tides in the Solomon Sea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lionel, Tchilibou Michel; Gourdeau, Lionel; Djath, Bugshin; Lyard, Florent; Allain, Damien; Koch Larrouy, Ariane; Yoga Nogroho, Dwi; Morrow, Rosemary

2017-04-01

In the south west Pacific, the Solomon Sea lies on the pathway of the Low Latitudes Western Boundary Currents (LLWBCs) that connect the subtropics to the equator. The Solomon Sea have a particular interest in a climatic context, since they are a critical pathway for ENSO and its low frequency modulation. The western Pacific is a place of energetic internal tides generated over its complex bottom topographic features. In the Indonesian Archipelago, they are particularly active in defining the properties of the waters that move from the Pacific to the Indian Ocean. The salinity maximum at the thermocline level, which is characteristic of the South Pacific Tropical Waters (SPTW) flowing within the LLWBCs and feeding the Equatorial UnderCurrent, is largely eroded within the Solomon Sea. Different mechanisms could explain such salt erosion including current/bathymetry interactions, internal tides, and eddy activity. The motivation of this study is to investigate the potential role of internal tides for such water mass transformation. Results from a 1/36° resolution regional model including explicit tides are presented. As a first step, the generation and propagation of internal tides in the Solomon Sea are determined, and the conversion rate from barotropic to baroclinic energy is estimated.

Exploring Marine Science through the University of Delaware's TIDE camp

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Veron, D. E.; Newton, F. A.; Veron, F.; Trembanis, A. C.; Miller, D. C.

2012-12-01

For the past five years, the University of Delaware has offered a two-week, residential, summer camp to rising sophomores, juniors, and seniors who are interested in marine science. The camp, named TIDE (Taking an Interest in Delaware's Estuary) camp, is designed to introduce students to the breadth of marine science while providing them with a college experience. Campers participate in a variety of academic activities which include classroom, laboratory, and field experiences, as well as numerous social activities. Two unique features of this small, focused camp is the large number of university faculty that are involved, and the ability of students to participate in ongoing research projects. At various times students have participated in fish and dolphin counts, AUV deployment, wind-wave tank experiments, coastal water and beach studies, and ROV activities. In addition, each year campers have participated in a local service project. Through communication with former TIDE participants, it is clear that this two-week, formative experience plays a large role in students choice of major when entering college.2012 Tide Camp - Salt marsh in southern Delaware 2012 Tide Camp - Field trip on a small boat

Internal tidal currents in the Gaoping (Kaoping) Submarine Canyon

USGS Publications Warehouse

Lee, I.-H.; Wang, Y.-H.; Liu, J.T.; Chuang, W.-S.; Xu, Jie

2009-01-01

Data from five separate field experiments during 2000-2006 were used to study the internal tidal flow patterns in the Gaoping (formerly spelled Kaoping) Submarine Canyon. The internal tides are large with maximum interface displacements of about 200??m and maximum velocities of over 100cm/s. They are characterized by a first-mode velocity and density structure with zero crossing at about 100??m depth. In the lower layer, the currents increase with increasing depth. The density interface and the along-channel velocity are approximately 90?? out-of-phase, suggesting a predominant standing wave pattern. However, partial reflection is indicated as there is a consistent phase advance between sea level and density interface along the canyon axis. ?? 2008 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Energy Harvesting from Surface River/Ocean Waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Cai, Wenzheng

The renewable energy is an important subject especially today as the world is facing the results of the pollution and depletion of the conventional energy resources. Around 70% of the Earth's surface is covered by water where the energy of the waves/tides could be used as alternative source of energy that is sustainable and environmental friendly. Most of the research efforts are focused on the development of the large-scale technologies that can operate in the open Ocean. The potential of the low-frequency and small-amplitude wave condition in shallow rivers and lakes where most of the world wave energy exists has not been explored yet. The objective of the current study is to design and develop new concepts for wave energy extraction, which depend on oscillatory wave motion and have the ability to convert the small and medium waves. The proposed devices are self-generating without any external sources, which makes them lightweight and naturally floating on the surface of the water. Feasibility studies of both designs were performed using numerical modeling and field experiments. The final prototypes achieved power output of 5.0+/-0.6mW and 0.25+/-0.01mW, respectively. Array systems implementing both concepts were also introduced to improve the performance of the devices.

Tidal impact on geophysical fields registed in GPO "Mikhnevo" area

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Vinogradov, Evgeny; Besedina, Alina; Gorbunova, Ella

2013-04-01

Geophysical observatory "Mikhnevo" is situated in the centre of Russian Plate and characterized with stable response to lunisolar tides. Since February 2008, regular precision measurements of groundwater level are carried out in a measurement well synchronously with atmospheric pressure measurements (sampling interval is 1 s, the measurement accuracy is 0.1 mm for the level and 0.1 gPa for atmospheric pressure). According to the results of hydrogeological sampling, the pressure head in the aquifer under study is 8.1 m, its transmissivity is 3.0 m2/day, hydraulic conductivity was 0.13 m/day, the pressure conductivity factor and elastic water yield are 1.3 × 104 m2/day and 2.3 × 10-4, respectively. Using flow measurements and telemetry of the open part of bore hole, major intervals of water inflow were detected at depths of 92-94 m and 99-100 m. Rock transmissivity in the fissure-conducting zone increases to 5.0 m2/day. Based on tidal component analysis in the filtered hydrogeological data, five main kinds of tidal waves were extracted (?1, ?2, Q1, ?1 and 2). STS-2 and KSESh-R seismometers registration range extension made it possible to extract tidal waves from Z-component of ground displacement. Similar methodology of data processing was used for tides analysis in hydrogeological, seismic and barometric data. It should be noted that barometric component extracted from water level variations can, in some cases, lead to misrepresentation of the data in frequency range under consideration. That is why two variants of data were analysed - with included and excluded barometric component. To extract tides from water level variations, long-period and barometric components were excluded from original precise monitoring datum. Data series obtained in this way were used for monthly spectrum realization, which, in turn, allowed finding out amplitudes of main tidal waves ?1, ?1 and 2. The most significant luni-solar ?1 wave annual variations cycle correlates with hydraulic head. Maximum amplitudes of ?1 wave for the whole 4 year observation period are observed then the ground-water level is high. Variation range of ?1 wave amplitude is stable and reaches 2.9 mm per year. Most significant variations take place in spring-summer period. Main lunar waves amplitude variations do not exceed 1.1 mm. The phase shift increase between luni-solar tides response in seismic and hydrogeological data was found. Diurnal O1 wave variations analysis should be done with barometric component excluded datum because of amplitude difference. During period under consideration M2 and K1 waves amplitudes are comparable and about 4.1 mm, O1 amplitude is on it minimum about 3.7 mm. Maximum diurnal and semi-diurnal wave amplitudes of water level variations confine with minimum values of luni-solar attraction. On the contrary on the same periods we can see decrease of ground displacement amplitudes as a result of tidal forces. Main tidal waves were extracted from atmospheric pressure datum too. Luni-solar K1 wave has the most amplitude there and exceeds O1 and M2 values 5-7 times.

Indirect evidence for substantial damping of low-mode internal tides in the open ocean

DTIC Science & Technology

2015-09-12

see also Arbic et al., 2012; M€uller et al., 2012; Waterhouse et al., 2014] (C. B. Rocha, Mesoscale to submesoscale wavenumber spectra in Drake Passage...nominal horizontal resolution, at the equator , of 1/ 12.58. The simulations are forced by the M2 tide, the largest tidal constit- uent in the ocean, and by...2005] is given below. Thorough discussions on topographic wave drag and quadratic bottom friction and their appearance in the momentum equations can

Temporally Dynamic, Spatially Static, Cobble Bedforms in Reversing Subtidal Currents

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Abdulkade, A.

2015-12-01

Cobble bedforms, c. 1m high with lengths of several metres and transverse to the reversing tidal currents, are exposed at extreme low-water Spring tides on an inter-tidal bedrock shelf in the macro-tidal Severn Estuary, UK. Near-bed flow velocities during Spring tides can exceed 1.5m/s, with water depths varying from zero to in excess of 10m. During neap tides the bedforms are not exposed, and sediment is expected to be of limited mobility. When exposed, the bedform geometry tends to be asymmetric; orientated down estuary with the ebb current. During Spring tides, vigorous bedload transport of gravel (including large cobbles) occurs during both flood and ebb over the crests and yet, despite this temporal dynamism, the bedforms remain spatially static over long time periods or show weak down-estuary migration. Stasis implies that the tidal bedload transport vectors are essentially in balance. Near-bed shear stress and bed roughness values vary systematically with the Spring-tide current speeds and the predicted grain-size of the bed load using the Shields criterion is in accord with observed coarser grain-sizes in transport. These hydrodynamic data, delimited by estimates of the threshold of motion, and integrated over either flood or ebb tides are being used to explain the apparent stability of the bedforms. The bulk hydraulic data are supplemented by particle tracer studies and laser-scanning of bed configurations between tides. The high-energy environment results in two forms of armouring. Pronounced steep imbrication of platy-cobbles visible on the exposed up-estuary side of dunes is probably disrupted during flood tides leading to rapid reworking of the toe deposits facing up-estuary. In contrast, some crest and leeside locations have been stable for prolonged periods such that closely-fitted fabrics result; these portions of the bedforms are static and effectively are 'armour-plated'. Ebb-tide deposits of finer, ephemeral sandy-units occur on the down estuary side of the bedforms. Sandy-units (although not observed at low tide) presumably also are deposited on the up estuary side during flooding tides but these deposits are destroyed by ebb flows. The implication of these sediment transport processes on the stratification of the bedforms is considered.

The relative contribution of waves, tides, and nontidal residuals to extreme total water levels on U.S. West Coast sandy beaches

USGS Publications Warehouse

Serafin, Katherine A.; Ruggiero, Peter; Stockdon, Hilary F.

2017-01-01

To better understand how individual processes combine to cause flooding and erosion events, we investigate the relative contribution of tides, waves, and nontidal residuals to extreme total water levels (TWLs) at the shoreline of U.S. West Coast sandy beaches. Extreme TWLs, defined as the observed annual maximum event and the simulated 100 year return level event, peak in Washington, and are on average larger in Washington and Oregon than in California. The relative contribution of wave-induced and still water levels (SWL) to the 100 year TWL event is similar to that of the annual maximum event; however, the contribution of storm surge to the SWL doubles across events. Understanding the regional variability of TWLs will lead to a better understanding of how sea level rise, changes in storminess, and possible changes in the frequency of major El Niños may impact future coastal flooding and erosion along the U.S. West Coast and elsewhere.

Earth Tide Analysis Specifics in Case of Unstable Aquifer Regime

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Vinogradov, Evgeny; Gorbunova, Ella; Besedina, Alina; Kabychenko, Nikolay

2017-06-01

We consider the main factors that affect underground water flow including aquifer supply, collector state, and distant earthquakes seismic waves' passage. In geodynamically stable conditions underground inflow change can significantly distort hydrogeological response to Earth tides, which leads to the incorrect estimation of phase shift between tidal harmonics of ground displacement and water level variations in a wellbore. Besides an original approach to phase shift estimation that allows us to get one value per day for the semidiurnal M2 wave, we offer the empirical method of excluding periods of time that are strongly affected by high inflow. In spite of rather strong ground motion during earthquake waves' passage, we did not observe corresponding phase shift change against the background on significant recurrent variations due to fluctuating inflow influence. Though inflow variations do not look like the only important parameter that must be taken into consideration while performing phase shift analysis, permeability estimation is not adequate without correction based on background alternations of aquifer parameters due to natural and anthropogenic reasons.

Earth Tide Analysis Specifics in Case of Unstable Aquifer Regime

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Vinogradov, Evgeny; Gorbunova, Ella; Besedina, Alina; Kabychenko, Nikolay

2018-05-01

We consider the main factors that affect underground water flow including aquifer supply, collector state, and distant earthquakes seismic waves' passage. In geodynamically stable conditions underground inflow change can significantly distort hydrogeological response to Earth tides, which leads to the incorrect estimation of phase shift between tidal harmonics of ground displacement and water level variations in a wellbore. Besides an original approach to phase shift estimation that allows us to get one value per day for the semidiurnal M2 wave, we offer the empirical method of excluding periods of time that are strongly affected by high inflow. In spite of rather strong ground motion during earthquake waves' passage, we did not observe corresponding phase shift change against the background on significant recurrent variations due to fluctuating inflow influence. Though inflow variations do not look like the only important parameter that must be taken into consideration while performing phase shift analysis, permeability estimation is not adequate without correction based on background alternations of aquifer parameters due to natural and anthropogenic reasons.

Topographic coupling of surface and internal Kelvin waves. [of ocean

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Chao, S.-Y.

1980-01-01

An analysis is presented for computing the diffraction of barotropic Kelvin waves by a localized topographical irregularity on flat-bottom ocean with an arbitrary vertical stratification. It was shown that all baroclinic Kelvin waves will be generated downstream of the bump, with the first baroclinic mode having the largest amplitude. The Poincare waves predominate in the lowest modes, and are more directionally anisotropic. It was concluded that baroclinic Poincare waves radiating offshore from the bump topography could contribute to the internal wave field in the open ocean and provide an alternative mechanism to dissipate the barotropic tides.

The harmonic development of the Earth tide generating potential due to the direct effect of the planets

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hartmann, Torsten; Wenzel, Hans-Georg

1994-09-01

The time-harmonic development of the Earth tide generating potential due to the direct effect of the planets Venus, Jupiter, Mars, Mercury and Saturn has been computed. The catalog of the fully normalized potential coefficients contains 1483 waves. It is based on the DE102 numerical ephemeris of the planets between years 1900 and 2200. Gravity tides due to the planets computed from the catalog at the surface of the Earth have an accuracy of about 0.027 pm/sq s (1 pm/sq s = 10(exp -12) m/sq s = 0.1 ngal) rms and 0.160 / 0.008 pm/sq s at maximum in time / frequency domain using the new benchmark tidal gravity series (Wenzel 1994).

On the use of wave parameterizations and a storm impact scaling model in National Weather Service Coastal Flood and decision support operations

USGS Publications Warehouse

Mignone, Anthony; Stockdon, H.; Willis, M.; Cannon, J.W.; Thompson, R.

2012-01-01

National Weather Service (NWS) Weather Forecast Offices (WFO) are responsible for issuing coastal flood watches, warnings, advisories, and local statements to alert decision makers and the general public when rising water levels may lead to coastal impacts such as inundation, erosion, and wave battery. Both extratropical and tropical cyclones can generate the prerequisite rise in water level to set the stage for a coastal impact event. Forecasters use a variety of tools including computer model guidance and local studies to help predict the potential severity of coastal flooding. However, a key missing component has been the incorporation of the effects of waves in the prediction of total water level and the associated coastal impacts. Several recent studies have demonstrated the importance of incorporating wave action into the NWS coastal flood program. To follow up on these studies, this paper looks at the potential of applying recently developed empirical parameterizations of wave setup, swash, and runup to the NWS forecast process. Additionally, the wave parameterizations are incorporated into a storm impact scaling model that compares extreme water levels to beach elevation data to determine the mode of coastal change at predetermined “hotspots” of interest. Specifically, the storm impact model compares the approximate storm-induced still water level, which includes contributions from tides, storm surge, and wave setup, to dune crest elevation to determine inundation potential. The model also compares the combined effects of tides, storm surge, and the 2 % exceedance level for vertical wave runup (including both wave setup and swash) to dune toe and crest elevations to determine if erosion and/or ocean overwash may occur. The wave parameterizations and storm impact model are applied to two cases in 2009 that led to significant coastal impacts and unique forecast challenges in North Carolina: the extratropical “Nor'Ida” event during 11-14 November and the large swell event from distant Hurricane Bill on 22 August. The coastal impacts associated with Nor'Ida were due to the combined effects of surge, tide, and wave processes and led to an estimated 5.8 million dollars in damage. While the impacts from Hurricane Bill were not as severe as Nor'Ida, they were mainly associated with wave processes. Thus, this event exemplifies the importance of incorporating waves into the total water level and coastal impact prediction process. These examples set the stage for potential future applications including adaption to the more complex topography along the New England coast.

Slump dominated upper slope reservoir facies, Intra Qua Iboe (Pliocene), Edop Field, offshore Nigeria

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Shanmugam, G.; Hermance, W.E.; Olaifa, J.O.

An integration of sedimentologic and 3D seismic data provides a basis for unraveling complex depositional processes and sand distribution of the Intra Qua Iboe (IQI) reservoir (Pliocene), Edop Field, offshore Nigeria. Nearly 3,000 feet of conventional core was examined in interpreting slump/slide/debris flow, bottom current, turbidity current, pelagic/hemipelagic, wave and tide dominated facies. The IQI was deposited on an upper slope in close proximity to the shelf edge. Through time, as the shelf edge migrated seaward, deposition began with a turbidite channel dominated slope system (IQI 1 and 2) and progressed through a slump/debris flow dominated slope system (IQI 3,more » the principal reservoir) to a tide and wave dominated, collapsed shelf-edge deltaic system (IQI 4). Using seismic time slices and corresponding depositional facies in the core, a sandy {open_quotes}fairway{open_quotes} has been delineated in the IQI 3. Because of differences in stacking patterns of sandy and muddy slump intervals, seismic facies show: (1) both sheet-like and mounded external forms (geometries), and (2) parallel/continuous as well as chaotic/hummocky internal reflections. In wireline logs, slump facies exhibits blocky, coarsening-up, fining-up, and serrated motifs. In the absence of conventional core, slump facies may be misinterpreted and even miscorrelated because seismic facies and log motifs of slumps and debris flows tend to mimic properties of turbidite fan deposits. The slump dominated reservoir facies is composed of unconsolidated fine-grained sand. Thickness of individual units varies from 1 to 34 feet, but amalgamated intervals reach a thickness of up to 70 feet and apparently form connected sand bodies. Porosity commonly ranges from 20 to 35%. Horizontal permeability commonly ranges from 1,000 to 3,000 md.« less

Modeling of Acoustic Field Statistics for Deep and Shallow Water Environments and 2015 CANAPE Pilot Study Moored Oceanographic Observations

DTIC Science & Technology

2015-09-30

into acoustic fluctuation calculations. In the Philippine Sea, models of eddies, internal tides, internal waves, and fine structure ( spice ) are...needed, while in the shallow water case a models of the random linear internal waves and spice are lacking. APPROACH The approach to this research is to

Riding the Ferris Wheel: A Sinusoidal Model

ERIC Educational Resources Information Center

Mittag, Kathleen Cage; Taylor, Sharon E.

2011-01-01

When thinking of models for sinusoidal waves, examples such as tides of the ocean, daily temperatures for one year in your town, light and sound waves, and certain types of motion are used. Many textbooks [1, p. 222] also present a "Ferris wheel description problem" for students to work. This activity takes the Ferris wheel problem out of the…

New Near-Source Tsunami Field Data for the April 1, 1946 Aleutian Earthquake, Alaska

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Plafker, G.; Synolakis, C. E.; Okal, E. A.

2001-12-01

The April 1, 1946 Aleutian earthquake (Ms 7.4; Mw 8.2) stands out among tsunamigenic events because it generated both very high run-up near the earthquake source region and a destructive trans-Pacific tsunami. For this puzzling event, maximum near-field run-up (42 m) is more than 6 times the computed average dip slip on the source fault (Johnson and Satake, 1997). Attempts to model the near-field tsunami have been hampered by an almost total absence of reliable data on wave run-up, direction, and arrival time because the ocean coast in the region was virtually uninhabited, the earthquake and tsunami occurred at night, and there were no nearby recording tide gauges. The lone exception is the Scotch Cap Coast Guard station on the southwestern end of Unimak Island where a reinforced concrete lighthouse and its crew of 5 Coast Guardsmen were obliterated by the tsunami. Survivors at the station, who were in a communications facility on the sea cliff above the lighthouse, report that the wave arrived shortly before low tide at 2:18 A.M., some 48 minutes after the main shock was felt. Previous surveys by Coast Guard personnel indicated a maximum wave run-up elevation of 30-35 m at the station above an unspecified datum. We obtained new data on tsunami distribution along south-facing coasts between Unimak Pass on the west and Sanak Island on the east by measuring the height of driftwood and beach materials that were deposited by the tsunami above the extreme storm tide level. Our data indicate that: 1. The highest measured run-up, which is at the Scotch Cap lighthouse, was 42 m above tide level or about 37 m above present storm tide elevation; 2. Run-up along the rugged coast from Scotch Cap for 12 km NW to Sennett Point is 12.6-18 m and for 30 km east of Scotch Cap to Cape Lutke it is 24-40.6 m; 3. Run-up along the broad lowlands bordering Unimak Bight is 10-15 m and inundation is locally more than 1,000 m; 5. Run-up diminishes to 8 m or less at the SE corner of Unimak Island; 6. No evidence was found for run-up above present storm tides (about 4-5 m above MLLW) on the Ikatan Peninsula or areas along the coast to the west; and 7. Run-up above storm tide level in the Sanak Island group is restricted to SW facing coasts of Sanak, Long, and Clifford Islands where it is continuous and locally up to 24 m high. Generation of the tsunami by one or more major earthquake-triggered submarine landslides near the shelf edge south of Unimak Island seems to be the only viable mechanism to account for the data on wave arrival time, run-up heights, and distribution, as well as unconfirmed anecdotal reports of local postquake increases in water depth and diminished bottom fisheries productivity.

Effects of the oceans on polar motion: Extended investigations

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Dickman, Steven R.

1986-01-01

A method was found for expressing the tide current velocities in terms of the tide height (with all variables expanded in spherical harmonics). All time equations were then combined into a single, nondifferential matrix equation involving only the unknown tide height. The pole tide was constrained so that no tidewater flows across continental boundaries. The constraint was derived for the case of turbulent oceans; with the tide velocities expressed in terms of the tide height. The two matrix equations were combined. Simple matrix inversion then yielded the constrained solution. Programs to construct and invert the matrix equations were written. Preliminary results were obtained and are discussed.

Winter variability in the western Gulf of Maine: Part 1: Internal tides

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Brown, W. S.

2011-09-01

During the winter 1997-1998, a field program was conducted in Wilkinson Basin-western Gulf of Maine-as part of a study of winter convective mixing. The field program consisted of (1) Wilkinson basin-scale hydrographic surveys, (2) a tight three-mooring array with ˜100 m separations measured temperature and conductivity at rates of 2-15 min and (3) a single pair of upward/downward-looking pair acoustic Doppler current profiling (ADCP) instruments measured currents with 8 m vertical resolution over the 270 m water column in north-central Wilkinson basin at a rate of 10 min. The moored array measurements below the mixed layer (˜100 m depth) between 11 January and 6 February 1998 were dominated by a combination of the relatively strong semidiurnal external (depth-independent or barotropic) tide; upon which were superposed a weaker phase-locked semidiurnal internal tide and a very weak water column mean currents of about 1 cm/s southward or approximately across the local isobaths. The harmonic analysis of a vertical average of the relatively uniform ADCP velocities in the well-mixed upper 123 m of the water column, defined the external tidal currents which were dominated by a nearly rectilinear, across-isobath (326°T) M 2 semidiurnal tidal current of about 15 cm/s. The depth-dependent residual current field, which was created by subtracting the external tidal current, consisted of (1) clockwise-rotating semidiurnal internal tidal currents of about 5 cm/s below the mixed layer; (2) clockwise-rotating inertial currents; and (3) a considerably less energetic subtidal current variability. The results from both frequency-domain empirical orthogonal function and tidal harmonic analyses of the of isotherm displacement series at each of the three moorings in the 100 m array mutually confirm an approximate east-northeastward phase propagation of the dominant M 2 semidiurnal internal tide across Wilkinson Basin. Further investigation supports the idea that this winter internal tide is very likely generated by the interaction of the external tidal currents and the southwestern wall of Wilkinson Basin. The definitions of the local Wilkinson Basin external tide and phase-locked internal tides will enable us to analyze a less "noisy" set of measurements for the subtle atmospherically forced convective and wind-driven motions.

Experimental investigation of internal tides generated by finite-height topography

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wang, Shuya; Chen, Xu; Wang, Jinhu; Meng, Jing

2018-06-01

Internal tides generated by finite-height topography are investigated in the laboratory, and the particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique is applied to measure the velocity fields. The energy, energy flux, and vertical mode structure of the internal tides are calculated and analyzed. The experimental results indicate that the strength of the wave field is mainly affected by the normalized topography height. The rays radiated from the taller topography are wider than those radiated from the lower topography. Both the experimental and theoretical results indicate that the normalized energy and energy flux of the internal tides are mainly determined by the normalized topography height, and the increase of the two quantities follows a quadratic function, and they almost remain unchanged with different normalized frequencies except for higher frequency. The percentage of energy for mode-1 and mode-2 internal tides is determined not only by frequency but also by topography height. In addition, an "inherent normalized frequency" is observed in the experiment, at which the percentage of energy for mode 1 and mode 2 does not vary with topography height. The decay rate of internal tide energy in the near field and far field is also estimated, with average values of 36.5 and 7.5%, respectively.

QBO Generated Inter-annual Variations of the Diurnal Tide in the Mesosphere

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Mayr, Hans G.; Mengel, John G.

2004-01-01

We report results from a study with the Numerical Spectral Model (NSM), which produces in the mesosphere significant inter-annual variations in the diurnal tide. Applying Hines Doppler Spread Parameterization (DPS), small-scale gravity waves (GW) drive the Quasi-biennial Oscillation (QBO) and Semi-annual Oscillation (SAO). With a GW source that peaks at the equator and is taken to be isotropic and independent of season, the NSM generates near the equator a QBO with variable periods around 27 months and zonal wind amplitudes close to 20 m / s at 30 Ism. As reported earlier, the NSM reproduces the observed equinoctial maxima in the diurnal tide at altitudes around 95 km. In the present paper it is shown that the QBO modulates the tide such that the seasonal amplitude maxima can vary from one year to another by as much as 30%. Since the period of the QBO is variable, its phase relative to the seasonal cycle changes. The magnitude of the QBO modulation of the tide thus varies considerably as our long-term model simulation shows. To shed light on the underlying mechanism, the relative importance of the linearized advection terms are discussed that involve the meridional and vertical winds of the diurnal tide.

QBO Generated Inter-annual Variations of the Diurnal Tide in the Mesosphere

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Mayr, Hans G.; Mengel, John G.

2004-01-01

We report results from a study with the Numerical Spectral Model (NSM), which produces in the d i d tide significant inter-annual variations. Applying Hines' Doppler Spread Parameterization (DPS), small-scale gravity waves (GW) drive the Quasi-biennial Oscillation (QBO) and Semi-annual Oscillation (SAO). With a GW source that peaks at the equator and is taken to be isotropic and independent of season, the NSM generates a QBO with variable periods around 27 months and zonal wind amplitudes close to 20 m/s at 30 lan, As reported earlier, the NSM reproduces the observed equinoctial maxima in the diurnal tide at altitudes around 95 km. In the present paper it is shown that the QBO modulates the tide such that the seasonal amplitude maxima can vary from one year to another by as much as 30%. Since the period of the QBO is variable, its phase relative to the seasonal cycle changes. The magnitude of the QBO modulation of the tide thus varies considerably as our long-term model simulation shows. To shed light on the underlying mechanisms, we discuss (a) the relative importance of the linearized advection terms that involve the meridional and vertical winds of the diurnal tide and (b) the effects momentum deposition from GWs filtered by the QBO.

Role of stratification on internal waves over the continental shelf in the Bay of Bengal : A case study

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Pradhan, H. K.; Rao, A. D.; Sharma, M. J.

2013-12-01

Internal waves (IWs) in a continuously stratified medium may propagate vertically as well as horizontally in the continental shelf. The surface layer of the Bay of Bengal exhibit intricate stratification owing to the differential distribution of freshwaters. In the current study, occurance of low-frequency IWs during two different occasions (i) late winter monsoon (February, 2007) (ii) post-monsoon (October, 2006) is studied. MITgcm is configured on a regional scale with variable curvilinear grid on the western shelf of Bay of Bengal to study the maximum energy associated with IWs during spring-tide. The local stratification and sharp varying topography along the coast makes it a potential region for generation/propagation of IWs. Modified ETOPO2 bathymetry and high resolution temperature and salinity data from WOA09 is used along with QuikSCAT daily winds. Real-time tides are introduced as forcing to the model by including additional terms in the momenteum equations. The simulations of the tidal elevations are validated with the tide gauge data. It is found that amplitudes of the IWs vary significantly from spring to neap tide. Spectral analysis of the temperature oscillations reveals the IWs of semi-diurnal frequency are dominant over the region followed by diurnal component. Observations of amplitude and phase of IWs are used for model validation collected during field work from 18-20 October 2006 and 21-23 February 2007 offshore of Visakhapatnam. The IW energy computed from both observations and simulations are reasonably in good agreement. It is also noticed that the energy intensity modulates during a complete tidal cycle bearing the maximum at spring tide and is nearly six times as compared to that of the neap tide period. It is interesting to further examine how the IW energy generates/propagates over the shelf/slope topography in the presence of variable straification. The maximum energy associated with low-frequency IWs is computed across the depth during spring tide off Visakhapatnam and Pardeep. The simulations indicate that the maximum IW energy is confined to the continental shelf edge inferring that IWs activity is at its peak over the region. A comparison of the computed energy is made along the bottom topography off Visakhapatnam and Paradeep during Feb 2007 and Oct 2006 respectively. The energy is further intruded about 7km and 9km off Visakhapatnam and Paradeep respectively towards the coast during Oct 2006 as aganist that of Feb 2007. This is attributed to the fact that the presence of staratified waters are closer to the coast in Oct 2006 compared to Feb 2007 as the stratification supports the IW activity. In the case of Feb 2007, the maximum IW energy is dampened sharply, and the rationale is two-fold. The first one is less stratification of the coastal waters and secondly is the presence of seasonal temperature inversion near the coast. These two factors are primarily responsible for the sharp decline of the energy over this region.

Electrodynamics of ionospheric weather over low latitudes

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Abdu, Mangalathayil Ali

2016-12-01

The dynamic state of the ionosphere at low latitudes is largely controlled by electric fields originating from dynamo actions by atmospheric waves propagating from below and the solar wind-magnetosphere interaction from above. These electric fields cause structuring of the ionosphere in wide ranging spatial and temporal scales that impact on space-based communication and navigation systems constituting an important segment of our technology-based day-to-day lives. The largest of the ionosphere structures, the equatorial ionization anomaly, with global maximum of plasma densities can cause propagation delays on the GNSS signals. The sunset electrodynamics is responsible for the generation of plasma bubble wide spectrum irregularities that can cause scintillation or even disruptions of satellite communication/navigation signals. Driven basically by upward propagating tides, these electric fields can suffer significant modulations from perturbation winds due to gravity waves, planetary/Kelvin waves, and non-migrating tides, as recent observational and modeling results have demonstrated. The changing state of the plasma distribution arising from these highly variable electric fields constitutes an important component of the ionospheric weather disturbances. Another, often dominating, component arises from solar disturbances when coronal mass ejection (CME) interaction with the earth's magnetosphere results in energy transport to low latitudes in the form of storm time prompt penetration electric fields and thermospheric disturbance winds. As a result, drastic modifications can occur in the form of layer restructuring (Es-, F3 layers etc.), large total electron content (TEC) enhancements, equatorial ionization anomaly (EIA) latitudinal expansion/contraction, anomalous polarization electric fields/vertical drifts, enhanced growth/suppression of plasma structuring, etc. A brief review of our current understanding of the ionospheric weather variations and the electrodynamic processes underlying them and some outstanding questions will be presented in this paper.

Depositional history of the Late Barremian deposits (Sidi Aïch Formation) in central Tunisia and adjacent parts of Algeria: A geostatistical revelation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Aloui, Tahar; Ounis, Anouar; Dasgupta, Prabir; Lourimi, Wijden; Chaabani, Fredj

2018-07-01

The lithofacies analysis of the Sidi Aïch Formation and equivalents in Tunisia and adjacent parts of Algeria was carried out using probabilistic and quantitative approach as Discrete Time Markov Chain (DTMC) and entropy functions coupled with detailed sedimentary analyses with a view to decipher the Late Barremian depositional history. The Late Barremian successions exhibit asymmetric, fining-upward and retrograding to aggrading cycles in both outcrop and borehole data. Complete cycles typically start with intraformational conglomerates or trough and planar cross-stratified coarse sands, overlain by fine-grained sands, which are succeeded, in turn, by laminated sands, silts, clays and carbonates, and ends with paleosoils. Such ideal succession of lithofacies is observed at Zemlet el Baidha Hill in Tunisia and OuM.1 borehole in northeast Algeria marked by high values of entropy. The entropy analysis indicates deposition in a neritic environment with interplay of fluvial (and rarely alluvial) processes. The facies associations observed at Zemlet el Baidha Hill document evidences of wave and tide dominated coast with complex-gradient of environments that graded from neritic (upper to lower shoreface) to coastal settings (lagoons, embayments, restricted bays, mires, swamps etc.). The architecture of lithofacies appears to have been controlled by autocyclic processes (effects of local tectonics, basin bathymetry, lateral redistribution of deposits by longshore waves and tide currents) and allocyclic processes (global decrease of relative sea-level and sediments supply). Due to large salinity variations, wave action, ephemeral and local aspects of these marginal environments, the ichnodiversity was often limited in time and space, and inhibited the development of fossils during the onset of deposition of Sidi Aïch Formation and its equivalents.

Quantifying the Influence of Waves and Tides in Shaping Delta Morphologies with the Use of Numerical Modelling.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Adam, A.; Avdis, A.; Allison, P. A.

2016-12-01

Deltas form at river mouths with a geomorphology that is controlled by the energy level of the river and the water body into which it is flowing and sedimentation rate. Modern deltas are often areas of high productivity and thus important fisheries and diversity hotspots and also home to millions of people. Geologically ancient deltas are important hydrocarbon prospects that can include both source rocks and reservoirs. Deltas around the world show considerable variability in their geomorphology,but can be geomorphologically classified based on the dominant physical processes controlling sedimentation (wave, fluvial and tidal). There is clear value in being able to determine the relative importance of these processes on geologically ancient deltas, as this information can inform hydrocarbon exploitation strategies. The interaction of these processes, however, is complex and/or temporal and spatially variable. One approach is the use of numerical modelling. Earth system models are now used to study the Earth's climate, either to reconstruct the past and understand the forces that shaped Earth, or to predict the future. Atmospheric and oceanic models are used in conjunction to calculate the propagation and evolution of winds, waves and tides over long periods of time. Using this information to study the coastal geophysical processes can be very useful, since both the temporal variabilities and temporal ranges of the dominant forces can be accounted for.Herein we outline a research strategy and initial results that quantify the wave and tidal influences on some of the largest deltas and study their relative impact on delta morphologies. First an ocean circulation model (Fluidity) and a spectral wave model (SWAN) are used to simulate the waves and tides in modern Earth, globally. The results are then validated against measurements and the tidal- and wave- induced bed shear stresses are calculated for a wide range of deltas. The utility of numerical modelling as a classification metric is then tested by comparing the results with well known morphologies. Finally the models are applied to the Mesozoic deltas in an effort to evaluate the impact of these processes on geologically ancient deltas.

Observing Storm Surges from Space: A New Opportunity

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Han, Guoqi; Ma, Zhimin; Chen, Dake; de Young, Brad; Chen, Nancy

2013-04-01

Coastal tide gauges can be used to monitor variations of a storm surge along the coast, but not in the cross-shelf direction. As a result, the cross-shelf structure of a storm surge has rarely been observed. In this study we focus on Hurricane Igor-induced storm surge off Newfoundland, Canada. Altimetric observations at about 2:30, September 22, 2010 UTC (hours after the passage of Hurricane Igor) reveal prominent cross-shelf variation of sea surface height during the storm passage, including a large nearshore slope and a mid-shelf depression. A significant coastal surge of 1 m derived from satellite altimetry is found to be consistent with tide-gauge measurements at nearby St. John's station. The post-storm sea level variations at St. John's and Argentia are argued to be associated with free equatorward-propagating continental shelf waves (with phase speeds of 11-13 m/s), generated along the northeast Newfoundland coast hours after the storm moved away from St. John's. The cross-shelf e-folding scale of the shelf wave was estimated to be ~100 km. We further show approximate agreement of altimetric and tide-gauge observations in the Gulf of Mexico during Hurricane Katrina (2005) and Isaac (2012). The study for the first time in the literature shows the robustness of satellite altimetry to observe storm surges, complementing tide-gauge observations for the analysis of storm surge characteristics and for the validation and improvement of storm surge models.

Sediment fluxes and delta evolution at Tuapaat, Disko Island, Greenland

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kroon, A.; Andersen, T. J.; Bendixen, M.

2013-12-01

Ice and snow and freezing temperatures have an important influence on the coastal morphodynamics in arctic polar coastal environments. Global climate changes induce many changes along the arctic coasts. Sea-levels are rising due to thermal expansion and due to an increased fresh water flux from the glaciers and land ice masses while ice coverage of the coastal waters decreases and the open water periods in summer extend. On a yearly basis, there is a strong variation over the seasons with open waters and active rivers in summer and ice-covered coastal waters and inactive rivers in winter. The coastal processes by waves and tides are thus often limited to the summer and early fall. On a daily basis, there is also a strong variation in fluvial discharges due to the daily variations in glacier melt with maximum melt in the afternoon and minimum values at night. At the same time, the actual flux of the river to the coastal bay is also influenced by the tidal phase: low tides in the afternoon will probably give the maximum plumes in the coastal waters and high tides in the early morning will reduce the input of sediments to the coastal waters to zero. The southern shore of Disko Island in western Greenland has four deltas: Igpik, Signiffik, Tuappat and Skansen. The sediments of these deltas are a mixture of sand and gravel and they are fed by melting glaciers. The Tuapaat delta is located at the end of a pro-glacial and fluvial valley at about 16 km from the glacier. The shores of the delta are reworked by waves, predominantly from southwestern (largest fetch, over 50 km), southern, and southeastern directions. The environment has a micro- to meso- tidal range with a spring tidal range of 2.7m. The morphologic changes on the delta over the last decades clearly showed an eastward migration of the main delta channel, probably due to wave-driven alongshore processes in the ice-free periods. In this presentation, we focus on quantification of sediment fluxes on the Tuapaat delta in western Greenland. We highlight the variation of the fluxes over days with changing river discharges and tidal phases. We use field observations of discharges and sediment fluxes at the lower part of the river close to the delta apex and at the delta mouth (ADV-frame and CTD-observations) during an 8 days period from neap-tide to spring-tide in July 2013. Besides, we estimate the wave impact during the period, using climatic variables and a numerical model.

M2 Internal Tides and Their Observed Wavenumber Spectra from Satellite Altimetry*

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Ray, R. D.; Zaron, E. D.

2015-01-01

A near-global chart of surface elevations associated with the stationary M2 internal tide is empirically constructed from multi-mission satellite altimeter data. An advantage of a strictly empirical mapping approach is that results are independent of assumptions about ocean wave dynamics and, in fact, can be used to test such assumptions. A disadvantage is that present-day altimeter coverage is only marginally adequate to support mapping such short-wavelength features. Moreover, predominantly north-south ground-track orientations and contamination from nontidal oceanographic variability can lead to deficiencies in mapped tides. Independent data from Cryosphere Satellite-2 (CryoSat-2) and other altimeters are used to test the solutions and show positive reduction in variance except in regions of large mesoscale variability. The tidal fields are subjected to two-dimensional wavenumber spectral analysis, which allows for the construction of an empirical map of modal wavelengths. Mode-1 wavelengths show good agreement with theoretical wavelengths calculated from the ocean's mean stratification, with a few localized exceptions (e.g., Tasman Sea). Mode-2 waves are detectable in much of the ocean, with wavelengths in reasonable agreement with theoretical expectations, but their spectral signatures grow too weak to map in some regions.

Development of new tsunami detection algorithms for high frequency radars and application to tsunami warning in British Columbia, Canada

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Grilli, S. T.; Guérin, C. A.; Shelby, M. R.; Grilli, A. R.; Insua, T. L.; Moran, P., Jr.

2016-12-01

A High-Frequency (HF) radar was installed by Ocean Networks Canada in Tofino, BC, to detect tsunamis from far- and near-field seismic sources; in particular, from the Cascadia Subduction Zone. This HF radar can measure ocean surface currents up to a 70-85 km range, depending on atmospheric conditions, based on the Doppler shift they cause in ocean waves at the Bragg frequency. In earlier work, we showed that tsunami currents must be at least 0.15 m/s to be directly detectable by a HF radar, when considering environmental noise and background currents (from tide/mesoscale circulation). This limits a direct tsunami detection to shallow water areas where currents are sufficiently strong due to wave shoaling and, hence, to the continental shelf. It follows that, in locations with a narrow shelf, warning times using a direct inversion method will be small. To detect tsunamis in deeper water, beyond the continental shelf, we proposed a new algorithm that does not require directly inverting currents, but instead is based on observing changes in patterns of spatial correlations of the raw radar signal between two radar cells located along the same wave ray, after time is shifted by the tsunami propagation time along the ray. A pattern change will indicate the presence of a tsunami. We validated this new algorithm for idealized tsunami wave trains propagating over a simple seafloor geometry in a direction normally incident to shore. Here, we further develop, extend, and validate the algorithm for realistic case studies of seismic tsunami sources impacting Vancouver Island, BC. Tsunami currents, computed with a state-of-the-art long wave model are spatially averaged over cells aligned along individual wave rays, located within the radar sweep area, obtained by solving the wave geometric optic equation; for long waves, such rays and tsunami propagation times along those are only function of the seafloor bathymetry, and hence can be precalculated for different incident tsunami directions. A model simulating the radar backscattered signal in space and time as a function of simulated tsunami currents is applied to the sweep area. Numerical experiments show that the new algorithm can detect a realistic tsunami further offshore than a direct detection method. Correlation thresholds for tsunami detection will be derived from the results.

Excitation mechanism of non-migrating tides

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Miyoshi, Yasunobu; Pancheva, Dora; Mukhtarov, Plamen; Jin, Hidekatsu; Fujiwara, Hitoshi; Shinagawa, Hiroyuki

2017-04-01

Using an atmosphere-ionosphere coupled model, the excitation source and temporal (seasonal and interannual) variations in non-migrating tides are investigated in this study. We first focus our attention on temporal variations in eastward moving diurnal tide with zonal wavenumber 3 (DE3), which is the largest of all the non-migrating tides in the mesosphere and lower thermosphere (MLT). Our simulation results indicate that upward propagation of the DE3 excited in the troposphere is sensitive to the zonal mean zonal wind in the stratosphere and mesosphere. The DE3 amplitude is enhanced in the region where the vertical shear of the zonal mean zonal wind is positive (westerly shear). Quasi-2-year variation in the DE3 amplitude in the MLT region is generated by quasi-2-year variation in the zonal mean zonal wind between 40 and 70 km, which is modulated by the stratospheric QBO. The excitation mechanisms of SW3 (westward moving semidiurnal tide with zonal wavenumber 3) and SW1 (westward moving semidiurnal tide with zonal wavenumber 1) are also investigated. During equinoxes, the SW3 and SW1 are excited by tropospheric heating (latent heat release and solar radiative heating) associated with cumulus convection in the tropics, and propagate upward into the MLT region. On the other hand, during solstices, SW3 and SW1 are generated in the winter stratosphere and mesosphere through the nonlinear interaction between the stationary planetary wave and migrating semidiurnal tide, and propagate upward to the lower thermosphere. The excitation sources of other non-migrating tides are also discussed.

Characterizing wave- and current- induced bottom shear stress: U.S. middle Atlantic continental shelf

USGS Publications Warehouse

Dalyander, P. Soupy; Butman, Bradford; Sherwood, Christopher R.; Signell, Richard P.; Wilkin, John L.

2013-01-01

Waves and currents create bottom shear stress, a force at the seabed that influences sediment texture distribution, micro-topography, habitat, and anthropogenic use. This paper presents a methodology for assessing the magnitude, variability, and driving mechanisms of bottom stress and resultant sediment mobility on regional scales using numerical model output. The analysis was applied to the Middle Atlantic Bight (MAB), off the U.S. East Coast, and identified a tidally-dominated shallow region with relatively high stress southeast of Massachusetts over Nantucket Shoals, where sediment mobility thresholds are exceeded over 50% of the time; a coastal band extending offshore to about 30 m water depth dominated by waves, where mobility occurs more than 20% of the time; and a quiescent low stress region southeast of Long Island, approximately coincident with an area of fine-grained sediments called the “Mud Patch”. The regional high in stress and mobility over Nantucket Shoals supports the hypothesis that fine grain sediment winnowed away in this region maintains the Mud Patch to the southwest. The analysis identified waves as the driving mechanism for stress throughout most of the MAB, excluding Nantucket Shoals and sheltered coastal bays where tides dominate; however, the relative dominance of low-frequency events varied regionally, and increased southward toward Cape Hatteras. The correlation between wave stress and local wind stress was lowest in the central MAB, indicating a relatively high contribution of swell to bottom stress in this area, rather than locally generated waves. Accurate prediction of the wave energy spectrum was critical to produce good estimates of bottom shear stress, which was sensitive to energy in the long period waves.

A framework to determine the locations of the environmental monitoring in an estuary of the Yellow Sea.

PubMed

Kim, Nam-Hoon; Hwang, Jin Hwan; Cho, Jaegab; Kim, Jae Seong

2018-06-04

The characteristics of an estuary are determined by various factors as like as tide, wave, river discharge, etc. which also control the water quality of the estuary. Therefore, detecting the changes of characteristics is critical in managing the environmental qualities and pollution and so the locations of monitoring should be selected carefully. The present study proposes a framework to deploy the monitoring systems based on a graphical method of the spatial and temporal optimizations. With the well-validated numerical simulation results, the monitoring locations are determined to capture the changes of water qualities and pollutants depending on the variations of tide, current and freshwater discharge. The deployment strategy to find the appropriate monitoring locations is designed with the constrained optimization method, which finds solutions by constraining the objective function into the feasible regions. The objective and constrained functions are constructed with the interpolation technique such as objective analysis. Even with the smaller number of the monitoring locations, the present method performs well equivalently to the arbitrarily and evenly deployed monitoring system. Copyright © 2018 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Observations of sound-speed fluctuations in the western Philippine Sea in the spring of 2009.

PubMed

Colosi, John A; Van Uffelen, Lora J; Cornuelle, Bruce D; Dzieciuch, Matthew A; Worcester, Peter F; Dushaw, Brian D; Ramp, Steven R

2013-10-01

As an aid to understanding long-range acoustic propagation in the Philippine Sea, statistical and phenomenological descriptions of sound-speed variations were developed. Two moorings of oceanographic sensors located in the western Philippine Sea in the spring of 2009 were used to track constant potential-density surfaces (isopycnals) and constant potential-temperature surfaces (isotherms) in the depth range 120-2000 m. The vertical displacements of these surfaces are used to estimate sound-speed fluctuations from internal waves, while temperature/salinity variability along isopycnals are used to estimate sound-speed fluctuations from intrusive structure often termed spice. Frequency spectra and vertical covariance functions are used to describe the space-time scales of the displacements and spiciness. Internal-wave contributions from diurnal and semi-diurnal internal tides and the diffuse internal-wave field [related to the Garrett-Munk (GM) spectrum] are found to dominate the sound-speed variability. Spice fluctuations are weak in comparison. The internal wave and spice frequency spectra have similar form in the upper ocean but are markedly different below 170-m depth. Diffuse internal-wave mode spectra show a form similar to the GM model, while internal-tide mode spectra scale as mode number to the minus two power. Spice decorrelates rapidly with depth, with a typical correlation scale of tens of meters.

Nonlinear internal waves in the Gulf of Guinea: observations and modeling

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Baquet, Emeric; Pichon, Annick; Raynaud, Stephane; Carton, Xavier

2017-04-01

Nonlinear internal waves are known hazards to offshore operations. They have been observed at different locations around the world and have been studied for a long time in Southeast Asia. However in West Africa, they are less documented. This research presents original data of currentmeters in northeastern part of the Gulf of Guinea, in the vicinity of offshore oil platforms. Nonlinear internal waves were observed. Their characteristics were determined under the assumptions of the weakly nonlinear and non-hydrostatic Korteweg-de Vries equation. Their directions of propagation were studied to determine generation zones. The monthly distribution was shown to assess seasonal variability. Their main generation mechanism was the barotropic tides over the shelf break, but other processes were at work too. The seasonal variability due to the monsoon, river discharges also played a part in the nonlinear internal wave dynamics. Since several processes, of different time and space scales, are at work, interactions between them must be investigated. Thus, a two-layered numerical model was used to reproduce nonlinear internal waves. Sensitivity experiments were made, in order to investigate the balance between nonlinearities, Coriolis and non-hydrostatic dispersions. The impact of non-uniform bathymetry and the presence of another flow in addition to the tides were also tested.

Large Historical Earthquakes and Tsunami Hazards in the Western Mediterranean: Source Characteristics and Modelling

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Harbi, Assia; Meghraoui, Mustapha; Belabbes, Samir; Maouche, Said

2010-05-01

The western Mediterranean region was the site of numerous large earthquakes in the past. Most of these earthquakes are located at the East-West trending Africa-Eurasia plate boundary and along the coastline of North Africa. The most recent recorded tsunamigenic earthquake occurred in 2003 at Zemmouri-Boumerdes (Mw 6.8) and generated ~ 2-m-high tsunami wave. The destructive wave affected the Balearic Islands and Almeria in southern Spain and Carloforte in southern Sardinia (Italy). The earthquake provided a unique opportunity to gather instrumental records of seismic waves and tide gauges in the western Mediterranean. A database that includes a historical catalogue of main events, seismic sources and related fault parameters was prepared in order to assess the tsunami hazard of this region. In addition to the analysis of the 2003 records, we study the 1790 Oran and 1856 Jijel historical tsunamigenic earthquakes (Io = IX and X, respectively) that provide detailed observations on the heights and extension of past tsunamis and damage in coastal zones. We performed the modelling of wave propagation using NAMI-DANCE code and tested different fault sources from synthetic tide gauges. We observe that the characteristics of seismic sources control the size and directivity of tsunami wave propagation on both northern and southern coasts of the western Mediterranean.

Tidal Signals In GOCE Measurements And Time-GCM

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hausler, K.; Hagan, M. E.; Lu, G.; Doornbos, E.; Bruinsma, S.; Forbes, J. M.

2013-12-01

In this paper we investigate tidal signatures in GOCE measurements during 15-24 November 2009 and complementary simulations with the Thermosphere-Ionosphere- Mesosphere-Electrodynamics General Circulation Model (TIME-GCM). The TIME-GCM simulations are driven by inputs that represent the prevailing solar and geomagnetic conditions along with tidal and planetary waves applied at the lower boundary (ca. 30km). For this pilot study, the resultant TIME-GCM densities are analyzed in two ways: 1) we use results along the GOCE orbital track, to calculate ascending/descending orbit longitude- latitude density difference and sum maps for direct comparison with the GOCE diagnostics, and 2) we conduct a complete analysis of TIME-GCM results to unambiguously characterize the simulated atmospheric tides and to attribute the observed longitude variations to specific tidal components. TIME-GCM captures some but not all of the observed longitudinal variability. The good data- model agreement for wave-2, wave-3, and wave-4 suggests that thermospheric impacts can be attributed to the DE1, DE2, DE3, S0, SE1, and SE2 tides. Discrepancies between TIME-GCM and GOCE results are most prominent in the wave-1 variations, and suggest that further refinement of the lower boundary forcing is necessary before we extend our analysis and interpretation to densities associated with the remainder of the GOCE mission.

Monitoring daily and sub-daily variations in crustal strain with seismic arrays

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Mao, S.; Campillo, M.; van der Hilst, R. D.; Brenguier, F.; Hillers, G.

2017-12-01

We demonstrate that we can monitor deformation of the shallow crust (with hourly temporal resolution) directly with seismic waves, by measuring relative seismic wave speed changes (dv/v) due to relatively known periodical forcing (tides and changes in atmospheric temperature) at Piton de la Fournaise Volcano (PdF), La Réunion. We use ambient seismic noise recorded (for one month) at VolcArray, an experiment with three arrays of 49 vertical-component geophones deployed on a 7x7 grid of approximately 80 m spacing. Through noise-based coda wave interferometry we infer for each array the average relative changes in propagation speed of seismic waves (dv/v) as a function of time, which relate to temporal changes in medium properties within 100m depth. The variations in dv/v ( 0.05%) on time-scales longer than a day are best explained by effects of precipitation on pore pressure. In contrast, the (weaker) daily and sub-daily fluctuations of dv/v ( 0.01%) are likely to be caused by tidal and thermal effects. We verify that the inferred variations of dv/v are unrelated to spatiotemporal changes of noise wavefields. We further compare the power spectrum of dv/v with spectra of simulated tide-induced volumetric strain, temperature records, very broadband (VBB) seismograms, and borehole tilt records. In all five types of data, dominant peaks are found at around diurnal, semi-diurnal, and ter-diurnal frequencies. A comparison of phase and spectra of the data suggests that the tidal and thermal effects on dv/v are of similar magnitude but vary with frequency. Theoretical modeling of tide- and temperature-induced strain in different frequency bands agrees with the relative magnitude of the two effects on dv/v from passive monitoring.

Tidal inlet response to sediment infilling of the associated bay and possible implications of human activities: the Marennes-Oléron Bay and the Maumusson Inlet, France

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bertin, Xavier; Chaumillon, Eric; Sottolichio, Aldo; Pedreros, Rodrigo

2005-06-01

Tidal inlet characteristics are controlled by wave energy, tidal range, tidal prism, sediment supply and direction and rates of sand delivered to the inlet. This paper deals with the relations between inlet and lagoon evolutions, linked by the tidal prism. Our study is focused on the Maumusson Inlet and the Marennes-Oléron Bay (first oyster farming area in Europe), located on the western coast of France. The tidal range (2-6 m) and wave climate (mean height: 1.5 m) place this tidal inlet system in the mixed energy (tide, waves), tide-dominated category. The availability of high-resolution bathymetric data since 1824 permits to characterise and quantify accurately morphological changes of both the inlet and the tidal bay. Since 1824, sediment filling of the tidal bay has led to a 20% decrease in its water volume, and a 35% reduction of the inlet throat section. Furthermore, the bay is subjected to a very high anthropic pressure, mainly related to oyster farming. Thus, both natural and human-related processes seem relevant to explain high sedimentation rates. Current measurements, hydrodynamic modelling and cross-sectional area of the inlet throat are used in order to quantify tidal prism changes since 1824. Both flood and ebb tidal prism decreased by 35%. Decrease in the Marennes-Oléron Bay water volume is inferred to be responsible for a part of tidal prism decrease at the inlet. Tidal prisms decrease may also be explained by an increase in frictional resistance to tidal wave propagation, due to a general shoaling and oyster farms in the bay. A conceptual model is proposed, taking into account natural and human-related sedimentation processes, and explaining tidal inlet response to tidal bay evolutions.

Modeling the tides of Massachusetts and Cape Cod Bays

USGS Publications Warehouse

Jenter, H.L.; Signell, R.P.; Blumberg, A.F.; ,

1993-01-01

A time-dependent, three-dimensional numerical modeling study of the tides of Massachusetts and Cape Code Bays, motivated by construction of a new sewage treatment plant and ocean outfall for the city of Boston, has been undertaken by the authors. The numerical model being used is a hybrid version of the Blumberg and Mellor ECOM3D model, modified to include a semi-implicit time-stepping scheme and transport of a non-reactive dissolved constituent. Tides in the bays are dominated by the semi-diurnal frequencies, in particular by the M2 tide, due to the resonance of these frequencies in the Gulf of Maine. The numerical model reproduces, well, measured tidal ellipses in unstratified wintertime conditions. Stratified conditions present more of a problem because tidal-frequency internal wave generation and propagation significantly complicates the structure of the resulting tidal field. Nonetheless, the numerical model reproduces qualitative aspects of the stratified tidal flow that are consistent with observations in the bays.

Observing storm surges from space: Hurricane Igor off Newfoundland

PubMed Central

Han, Guoqi; Ma, Zhimin; Chen, Dake; deYoung, Brad; Chen, Nancy

2012-01-01

Coastal communities are becoming increasingly more vulnerable to storm surges under a changing climate. Tide gauges can be used to monitor alongshore variations of a storm surge, but not cross-shelf features. In this study we combine Jason-2 satellite measurements with tide-gauge data to study the storm surge caused by Hurricane Igor off Newfoundland. Satellite observations reveal a storm surge of 1 m in the early morning of September 22, 2010 (UTC) after the passage of the storm, consistent with the tide-gauge measurements. The post-storm sea level variations at St. John's and Argentia are associated with free equatorward-propagating continental shelf waves (with a phase speed of ~10 m/s and a cross-shelf decaying scale of ~100 km). The study clearly shows the utility of satellite altimetry in observing and understanding storm surges, complementing tide-gauge observations for the analysis of storm surge characteristics and for the validation and improvement of storm surge models. PMID:23259048

Analytical Model of Inlet Growth and Equilibrium Cross-Sectional Area

DTIC Science & Technology

2016-04-01

performance in a real-world setting. BACKGROUND: Long-term inlet stability in bar-built systems is determined by the tidal and wave forces that...across the node was limited due to convergence of the two incoming tidal waves . As such, the equivalent bay area was calculated using the midpoint as a...sediment transport is driven by tides and does not incorporate other forcing and associated sediment pathways. The ratio of wave to tidal energy is an

Assessment of Enterococcus Levels in Recreational Beach Sand Along the Rhode Island Coast.

PubMed

Coakley, Eugenie; Parris, Amie L; Wyman, Al; Latowsky, Gretchen

2016-04-01

Recent studies have shown that coastal beach sand as well as coastal ocean water can be contaminated with fecal indicator Enterococcus bacteria (ENT). A study of sand ENT concentrations over a four-week period at 12 Rhode Island beaches was conducted during the summer of 2009. While average contamination was low relative to water quality standards, every beach had at least one day with very high sand ENT readings. On 10 of the 12 beaches, a statistically significant gradient occurred in geometric mean ENT concentrations among tidal zones, with dry (supratidal, or above high tide mark) sand having the highest level, followed by wet (intratidal, or below high tide mark) and underwater sand. Beaches with higher wave action had significantly lower ENT levels in wet and underwater sand compared to beaches with lower wave action.

The Statistical Signal of Morphological Process in Stratigraphy

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Esposito, C. R.; Straub, K. M.

2013-12-01

The most widely used classification of river delta morphologies, Galloway's ternary diagram, holds that the surface characteristics of a delta, including the distribution of depositional environments, and shoreline shape, can be predicted by the relative strengths of the fluvial and marine processes that influence the delta. Though almost 40 years old, Galloway's diagram of wave, river, and tide dominated deltas is still widely referred to in textbooks and in literature as a way of describing the relationship between morphological processes and the distribution of depositional environments over a single delta 'event' such as the progradation of one delta lobe. However, there is no complimentary classification scheme that addresses the ways in which deltaic stratigraphy under varying forcing conditions is preserved over sequences of many such events. Such sequences operating over a range of time scales set the architecture of sedimentary basins, so a method of classifying the stratigraphic result is an important goal. In this study, we use Delft3D to examine the autogenic behavior of thick packages of simulated deltaic stratigraphy (>10 channel depths) under the influence of a range of wave, tide, and flood-dominated conditions, as well as a variety of sedimentary inputs. We quantify the strength and type of autogenic behavior by measuring stratigraphic completeness and compensation index. Both metrics have been observed to vary systematically in field scale systems, and in experimental deltas deposited under a range of river dominated conditions. This work will extend that range into deltas with significant wave, tide, and flood influence.

Wave actions and topography determine the small-scale spatial distribution of newly settled Asari clams Ruditapes philippinarum on a tidal flat

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Nambu, Ryogen; Saito, Hajime; Tanaka, Yoshio; Higano, Junya; Kuwahara, Hisami

2012-03-01

There are many studies on spatial distributions of Asari clam Ruditapes philippinarum adults on tidal flats but few have dealt with spatial distributions of newly settled Asari clam (<0.3 mm shell length, indicative of settlement patterns) in relation to physical/topographical conditions on tidal flats. We examined small-scale spatial distributions of newly settled individuals on the Matsunase tidal flat, central Japan, during the low spring tides on two days 29th-30th June 2007, together with the shear stress from waves and currents on the flat. The characteristics of spatial distribution of newly settled Asari clam markedly varied depending on both of hydrodynamic and topographical conditions on the tidal flat. Using generalized linear models (GLMs), factors responsible for affecting newly settled Asari clam density and its spatial distribution were distinguished between sampling days, with "crest" sites always having a negative influence each on the density and the distribution on both sampling days. The continuously recorded data for the wave-current flows at the "crest" site on the tidal flat showed that newly settled Asari clam, as well as bottom sediment particles, at the "crest" site to be easily displaced. Small-scale spatial distributions of newly settled Asari clam changed with more advanced benthic stages in relation to the wave shear stress.

New Maps of California to Improve Tsunami Preparedness

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Barberopoulou, Aggeliki; Borrero, Jose C.; Uslu, Burak; Kalligeris, Nikos; Goltz, James D.; Wilson, Rick I.; Synolakis, Costas E.

2009-04-01

On 25 April 1992, an M 7.1 earthquake shook the coast of Cape Mendocino near Petrolia, Calif., followed by two large aftershocks (both M ˜ 6.6) the next day. Although no lives were lost in these temblors, 98 people were injured. These earthquakes heavily damaged older structures within this sparsely populated, mountainous region, causing more than US$66 million in losses. Approximately 20 minutes after the first earthquake, tide gauge stations in nearby Crescent City reported a surge—a tsunami with maximum wave heights (from trough to crest) of 1.1 meters. The tsunami hit Crescent City and Eureka at low tide. Fortunately, no damages occurred to city or harbor facilities—had this happened during high tide, it may have been a different story [McCarthy et al., 1993].

Rip Current Velocity Structure in Drifter Trajectories and Numerical Simulations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Schmidt, W. E.; Slinn, D. N.

2008-12-01

Estimates of rip current velocity and cross-shore structure were made using surfzone drifters, bathymetric surveys, and rectified video images. Over 60 rip current trajectories were observed during a three year period at a Southern California beach in July 2000, 2001, and 2002. Incident wave heights (Hs) immediately offshore (~7 m depth) were obtained by initializing a refraction model with data from nearby directional wave buoys, and varied from 0.3 to 1.0 m. Tide levels varied over approximately 1 m and winds were light. Numerical simulations using the non-linear shallow water equations and modeled over measured bathymetry also produced similar flows and statistics. Time series of drifter position, sampled at 1 Hz, were first-differenced to produce velocity time series. Maximum observed velocities varied between 25 and 80 cm s-1, whereas model maximum velocities were lower by a factor 2 to 3. When velocity maxima were non-dimensionalized by respective trajectory mean velocity, both observed and modeled values varied between 1.5 and 3.5. Cross-shore location of rip current velocity maxima for both shore-normal and shore-oblique rip currents were strongly coincident with the surfzone edge (Xb), as determined by rectified video (observations) or breakpoint (model). Once outside of the surfzone, observed and modeled rip current velocities decreased to 10% of their peak values within 2 surfzone widths of the shoreline, a useful definition of rip current cross-shore extent.

Study of the potential of wave energy in Malaysia

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Tan, Wan Ching; Chan, Keng Wai; Ooi, Heivin

2017-07-01

Renewable energy is generally defined as energy harnessed from resources which are naturally replenished. It is an alternative to the current conventional energy sources such as natural gas, oil and coal, which are nonrenewable. Besides being nonrenewable, the harnessing of these resources generally produce by-products which could be potentially harmful to the environment. On the contrary, the generation from renewable energy does not pose environmental degradation. Some examples of renewable energy sources are sunlight, wind, tides, waves and geothermal heat. Wave energy is considered as one of the most promising marine renewable resources and is becoming commercially viable quicker than other renewable technologies at an astonishing growth rate. This paper illustrates the working principle of wave energy converter (WEC) and the availability of wave energy in Malaysia oceans. A good understanding of the behaviour of ocean waves is important for designing an efficient WEC as the characteristics of the waves in shallow and deep water are different. Consequently, wave energy converters are categorized into three categories on shore, near shore and offshore. Therefore, the objectives of this study is ought to be carried out by focusing on the formation of waves and wave characteristics in shallow as well as in deep water. The potential sites for implementation of wave energy harvesting technology in Malaysia and the wave energy available in the respective area were analysed. The potential of wave energy in Malaysia were tabulated and presented with theoretical data. The interaction between motion of waves and heave buoys for optimum phase condition by using the mass and diameter as the variables were investigated.

Computational modeling of unsteady loads in tidal boundary layers

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Alexander, Spencer R.

As ocean current turbines move from the design stage into production and installation, a better understanding of oceanic turbulent flows and localized loading is required to more accurately predict turbine performance and durability. In the present study, large eddy simulations (LES) are used to measure the unsteady loads and bending moments that would be experienced by an ocean current turbine placed in a tidal channel. The LES model captures currents due to winds, waves, thermal convection, and tides, thereby providing a high degree of physical realism. Probability density functions, means, and variances of unsteady loads are calculated, and further statistical measures of the turbulent environment are also examined, including vertical profiles of Reynolds stresses, two-point correlations, and velocity structure functions. The simulations show that waves and tidal velocity had the largest impact on the strength of off-axis turbine loads. By contrast, boundary layer stability and wind speeds were shown to have minimal impact on the strength of off- axis turbine loads. It is shown both analytically and using simulation results that either transverse velocity structure functions or two-point transverse velocity spatial correlations are good predictors of unsteady loading in tidal channels.

Wave and Current Measurements From the Coastal Storms Program (CSP) Buoy 41012 off St. Augustine, FL

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Crout, R. L.

2008-05-01

The Coastal Storms Program (CSP) is a NOAA program that involves several different branches within NOAA. Components of the National Ocean Service, the National Weather Service, the National Marine Fisheries Service, and the Office of Oceanic and Atmospheric Research participate in CSP, which is administered by the Coastal Services Center. CSP selects an area where an impact in support of the NOAA Societal Goals can be made. The first area selected was the northeast coast of Florida in 2002. In addition to coastal water level stations and modeling efforts, a 3-meter discuss buoy (WMO 41012) was deployed off the coast of St. Augustine, FL in approximately 38 meters of water. In addition to the normal complement of meteorological sensors, Buoy 41012 contained a sensor to measure directional waves at hourly intervals, a temperature-conductivity sensor to measure near-surface temperature and salinity, and a current profiler to obtain near-surface to near-bottom currents at hourly intervals. These data on the continental shelf provide a view of the oceanography on the inner margin of the Gulf Stream. The data are served over the National Data Buoy Center's web page and over the Global Telecommunications System. The waves and currents during the period from September 2005 through December 2007 are related to coastal storms, hurricanes, tides, and Gulf Stream intrusions. During several late fall and winter periods the waves exceeded 4.5 meters. The on-offshore component of the currents appears to be tidally driven, however, predominant on- and off-shore flows are observed in response to storms and Gulf Stream intrusions. The primary component of the flow is aligned alongshore and although the tidal influence is obvious, extended periods of northward and southward currents are observed. Currents approaching 2 knots are observed at various times during the period that the buoy has been active. The high currents appear to be in response to strong wind events (atmospheric frontal passages) and Gulf Stream intrusions.

The role of extreme floods in estuary-coastal behaviour: contrasts between river- and tide-dominated microtidal estuaries

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Cooper, J. A. G.

2002-06-01

Contrasting modes of sedimentation and facies arrangement in tide- and river-dominated microtidal estuaries arise from the degree to which river or tidal discharge and sediment supply influences an estuary. A distinct facies gradation exists in tide-dominated systems from sandy, barrier/tidal delta-associated environments at the coast through deep mud-dominated middle reaches to fluvial sediment in the upper reaches. In river-dominated systems, fluvial sediment extends to the barrier and flood-tidal deltas are poorly developed or absent from the estuary. A number of independent observations during extreme floods on the South African coast indicate that these types of estuary respond differently to extreme river floods and that the mode of response corresponds to estuary type. Tide-dominated systems exhibit preferential erosion of noncohesive barrier and tidal delta sediments during river floods while the middle reaches remain little modified. River-dominated systems experience consistent erosion throughout their channel length during extreme floods. The increased cohesion of riverine sediments and stabilisation of bars by vegetation in river-dominated channels means that higher magnitude floods are necessary to effect significant morphological change. Barrier erosion, including the tidal delta, results in deposition of an ephemeral delta composed almost entirely of sands from these deposits in tide-dominated estuaries. In river-dominated systems, eroded channel sediments and material from the river catchment may augment barrier sediments in the ephemeral delta deposit. Post-flood, wave-reworking of ephemeral delta sediments acts to restore barriers to pre-flood morphology within a few years; however, in river-dominated systems, the additional sediment volume may produce significant coastal progradation that requires several years or decades to redistribute. These different modes of flood response mediated by the nature of the estuary have implications for coastal behaviour at the time scale of months to several decades. Estuary-coastal behaviour at river-dominated estuaries may be influenced for several decades by post-flood morphological adjustment. Tide-dominated estuaries, however, respond more rapidly in reworking flood-eroded sediment and are typically fully adjusted to modal wave and tidal conditions within a few months to a few years. In addition, the facies arrangement within the two estuary types renders tide-dominated estuaries more responsive to minor floods, while river-dominated estuaries, by virtue of more cohesive channel sediments, require greater discharges to effect significant morphological change.

Characterizing ocean gyres formation within a bay using vorticity and HF radar measurements

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ragnoli, E.; Donncha, F. O.; Hartnett, M.

2012-04-01

In situations in which wind forcing plays a dominant role in surface currents it becomes important to understand its correlation with parameters that can be used to characterise circulation patterns within a bay. These datasets can then be used in the detection and characterisation of ocean gyres. A network of high frequency radars (NUIG CODAR) is deployed within Galway Bay, on the West Coast of Ireland as a backbone system within an integrated coastal ocean observation system. This system provides real-time synoptic measurements of both ocean surface currents and surface waves across the entire bay. In this work, vorticity is identified as a defining quantity for the characterisation of circulating flow patterns (in particular for the detection of ocean gyres) and it is directly calculated from the measured velocity vectors of NUIG CODAR. A correlation study with wind and tide measurements is then undertaken in order to investigate the dependencies between vorticity and those parameters. A comprehensive NUIG CODAR, weather station and tide gauge monitoring program was conducted over a 30 days period and the data collected analysed for the correlation with the computed vorticity. Tidal information from the FES2004 Global tidal atlas defined surface elevations at the open sea boundaries in the west and in the south. Data from a tide gauge deployed within the bay, which provided real-time tidal data at 6 minute intervals, was used to fine-tune model elevations. A weather station located at National University of Ireland, Galway provided measured wind data for the model. The NUIG CODAR coastal observation system detects strong, non-persistent, gyre formation within Galway Bay. During periods of relatively large tidal ranges (order 4m) and light wind conditions well defined, cyclonic circulation is developed within the bay. The correlation analysis shows that the gyres tend to form soon after high tide and last until the next low water; the gyre structure is transported about the bay with the bulk advection of tidal motion. This is the first time this feature has been observed and the significance of its consequences on water circulation will be the subject of future research.

Gravitational circulation in a tidal strait

USGS Publications Warehouse

Smith, P.E.; Cheng, R.T.; Burau, J.R.; Simpson, M.R.; ,

1991-01-01

Eight months of continuous measurements of tidal current profiles with an acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) were made in Carquinez Strait, California, during 1988 for the purpose of estimating long-term variations in vertical profiles of Eulerian residual currents. Salinity stratification near the ADCP deployment site also was analyzed. The strength of density-driven gravitational circulation and the amount of salinity stratification in the strait varied significantly over the spring-neap tidal cycle. Density currents and stratification were greater during neap tides when vertical mixing from the tide is at a minimum. Landward residual currents along the bottom were observed only during neap tides. Simulations made with a three-dimensional model to supplement the field measurements show a significant, tidally induced lateral variation in residual currents across the strait. The Stokes drift of 1-2 cm/s in the strait is small relative to the speed of gravitational currents.

Earth Observations taken by Expedition 34 crewmember

NASA Image and Video Library

2013-01-18

ISS034-E-032377 (18 Jan. 2013) --- Internal waves off Northern Trinidad are featured in this image photographed by an Expedition 34 crew member on the International Space Station. This photograph shows the north coast of the island of Trinidad in the southeastern Caribbean Sea, where heating of the land is setting off the growth of cumulus clouds. The light blue northwest-southeast trending plume at center is sediment from one of the rivers that flows into the sea here. Adjacent to, and appearing to cross the sediment plume, a series of subtle interacting arcs can be seen in the sea. These are known as internal waves which are the surface manifestation of slow waves moving tens of meters beneath the sea surface. These produce enough of an effect on the sea surface to be seen from space, but only where they are enhanced due to reflection of sunlight, or sunglint, back towards the space station. The image shows at least three sets of internal waves interacting. The most prominent set (top left) shows a “packet” of several waves moving from the northwest due to the tidal flow towards the north coast of Trinidad. Two less prominent, younger sets can be seen further out to sea. A very broad set enters the view from the north and northeast, and interacts at top center with the first set. All the internal waves are probably caused by the shelf break near Tobago (outside the image to top right). The shelf break is the step between shallow seas (around continents and islands) and the deep ocean. It is the line at which tides usually start to generate internal waves. The sediment plume at center is embedded in the Equatorial Current (also known as the Guyana Current) and is transporting material to the northwest—in almost the opposite direction to the movement of the internal waves. The current flows strongly from east to west around Trinidad, all the way from equatorial Africa, driven by year-round easterly winds. Seafarers in the vicinity of Trinidad are warned that the current, and its local reverse eddies, make navigation of smaller craft in these waters complicated and sometimes dangerous.

Thermospheric Extension of the Quasi 6-day Wave Observed by the TIMED Satellite

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gan, Q.; Oberheide, J.

2017-12-01

The quasi 6-day wave is one of the most prevailing planetary waves in the mesosphere and lower thermosphere (MLT) region. Its peak amplitude can attain 20-30 m/s in low-latitude zonal winds at around equinoxes. Consequently, it is anticipated that the 6-day wave can induce not only significantly dynamic effects (via wave-mean flow and wave-wave interactions) in the MLT, but also have significant impacts on the Thermosphere and Ionosphere (T-I). The understanding of the 6-day wave impact on the T-I system has been advanced a lot due to the recent development of whole atmosphere models and new satellite observations. Three pathways were widely proposed to explain the upward coupling due to the 6-day wave: E-region dynamo modulation, dissipation and nonlinear interaction with thermal tides. The current work aims to show a comprehensive pattern of the 6-day wave from the mesosphere up to the thermosphere/ionosphere in neutral fields (temperature, 3-D winds and density) and plasma drifts. To achieve this goal, we carry out the 6-day wave diagnostics by two different means. Firstly, the output of a one-year WACCM+DART run with data assimilation is analyzed to show the global structure of the 6-day wave in the MLT, followed by E-P flux diagnostics to elucidate the 6-day wave source and wave-mean flow interactions. Secondly, we produce observation-based 6-day wave patterns throughout the whole thermosphere by constraining modeled (TIME-GCM) 6-day wave patterns with observed 6-day wave patterns from SABER and TIDI in the MLT region. This allows us to fill the 110-400 km gap between remote sensing and in-situ satellites, and to obtain more realistic 6-day wave plasma drift patterns.

Far-field tsunami of 2017 Mw 8.1 Tehuantepec, Mexico earthquake recorded by Chilean tide gauge network: Implications for tsunami warning systems

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

González-Carrasco, J. F.; Benavente, R. F.; Zelaya, C.; Núñez, C.; Gonzalez, G.

2017-12-01

The 2017 Mw 8.1, Tehuantepec earthquake generated a moderated tsunami, which was registered in near-field tide gauges network activating a tsunami threat state for Mexico issued by PTWC. In the case of Chile, the forecast of tsunami waves indicate amplitudes less than 0.3 meters above the tide level, advising an informative state of threat, without activation of evacuation procedures. Nevertheless, during sea level monitoring of network we detect wave amplitudes (> 0.3 m) indicating a possible change of threat state. Finally, NTWS maintains informative level of threat based on mathematical filtering analysis of sea level records. After 2010 Mw 8.8, Maule earthquake, the Chilean National Tsunami Warning System (NTWS) has increased its observational capabilities to improve early response. Most important operational efforts have focused on strengthening tide gauge network for national area of responsibility. Furthermore, technological initiatives as Integrated Tsunami Prediction and Warning System (SIPAT) has segmented the area of responsibility in blocks to focus early warning and evacuation procedures on most affected coastal areas, while maintaining an informative state for distant areas of near-field earthquake. In the case of far-field events, NTWS follow the recommendations proposed by Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC), including a comprehensive monitoring of sea level records, such as tide gauges and DART (Deep-Ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunami) buoys, to evaluate the state of tsunami threat in the area of responsibility. The main objective of this work is to analyze the first-order physical processes involved in the far-field propagation and coastal impact of tsunami, including implications for decision-making of NTWS. To explore our main question, we construct a finite-fault model of the 2017, Mw 8.1 Tehuantepec earthquake. We employ the rupture model to simulate a transoceanic tsunami modeled by Neowave2D. We generate synthetic time series at tide gauge stations and compare them with recorded sea level data, to dismiss meteorological processes, such as storms and surges. Resonance analysis is performed by wavelet technique.

Modeling tides and their influence on the circulation in Prince William Sound, Alaska

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wang, Xiaochun; Chao, Yi; Zhang, Hongchun; Farrara, John; Li, Zhijin; Jin, Xin; Park, Kyungeen; Colas, Francois; McWilliams, James C.; Paternostro, Chris; Shum, C. K.; Yi, Yuchan; Schoch, Carl; Olsson, Peter

2013-07-01

In the process of developing a real-time data-assimilating coastal ocean forecasting system for Prince William Sound, Alaska, tidal signal was added to a three-domain nested model for the region. The model, which is configured from the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS), has 40 levels in the vertical direction and horizontal resolutions of 10.6km, 3.6km and 1.2km for its three nested domains, respectively. In the present research, the ROMS tidal solution was validated using data from coastal tide gauges, satellite altimeters, high-frequency coastal radars, and Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) current surveys. The error of barotropic tides, as measured by the total root mean square discrepancy of eight major tidal constituents is 5.3cm, or 5.6% of the tidal sea surface height variability in the open ocean. Along the coastal region, the total discrepancy is 9.6cm, or 8.2% of the tidal sea surface height variability. Model tidal currents agree reasonably well with the observations. The influence of tides on the circulation was also investigated using numerical experiments. Besides tides, other types of forcing fields (heat flux, wind stress, evaporation minus precipitation, and freshwater discharge) were also included in the model. Our results indicate that tides play a significant role in shaping the mean circulation of the region. For the summer months, the tidal residual circulation tends to generate a cyclonic gyre in the central Sound. The net transport into the Sound through Hinchinbrook Entrance is reduced. Tides also increase the mixed layer depth in the Sound, especially during the winter months.

Variability of O2, H2S, and pH in intertidal sediments measured on a highly resolved spatial and temporal scale

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Walpersdorf, E.; Werner, U.; Bird, P.; de Beer, D.

2003-04-01

We investigated the variability of O_2, pH, and H_2S in intertidal sediments to assess the time- and spatial scales of changes in environmental conditions and their effects on bacterial activities. Measurements were performed over the tidal cycle and at different seasons by the use of microsensors attached to an autonomous in-situ measuring device. This study was carried out at a sand- and a mixed flat in the backbarrier area of Spiekeroog (Germany) within the frame of the DFG research group "Biogeochemistry of the Wadden Sea". Results showed that O_2 variability was not pronounced in the coastal mixed flat, where only extreme weather conditions could increase O_2 penetration. In contrast, strong dynamics in O_2 availability, pH and maximum penetration depths of several cm were found at the sandflat. In these highly permeable sediments, we directly observed tidal pumping: at high tide O_2-rich water was forced into the plate and at low tide anoxic porewater drained off the sediment. From the lower part of the plate where organic rich clayey layers were embedded in the sediment anoxic water containing H_2S leaked out during low tide. Thus advective processes, driven by the tidal pump, waves and currents, control O_2 penetration and depth distribution of H_2S and pH. The effects of the resulting porewater exchange on mineralization rates and microbial activities will be discussed.

Resolving high-frequency internal waves generated at an isolated coral atoll using an unstructured grid ocean model

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Rayson, Matthew D.; Ivey, Gregory N.; Jones, Nicole L.; Fringer, Oliver B.

2018-02-01

We apply the unstructured grid hydrodynamic model SUNTANS to investigate the internal wave dynamics around Scott Reef, Western Australia, an isolated coral reef atoll located on the edge of the continental shelf in water depths of 500,m and more. The atoll is subject to strong semi-diurnal tidal forcing and consists of two relatively shallow lagoons separated by a 500 m deep, 2 km wide and 15 km long channel. We focus on the dynamics in this channel as the internal tide-driven flow and resulting mixing is thought to be a key mechanism controlling heat and nutrient fluxes into the reef lagoons. We use an unstructured grid to discretise the domain and capture both the complex topography and the range of internal wave length scales in the channel flow. The model internal wave field shows super-tidal frequency lee waves generated by the combination of the steep channel topography and strong tidal flow. We evaluate the model performance using observations of velocity and temperature from two through water-column moorings in the channel separating the two reefs. Three different global ocean state estimate datasets (global HYCOM, CSIRO Bluelink, CSIRO climatology atlas) were used to provide the model initial and boundary conditions, and the model outputs from each were evaluated against the field observations. The scenario incorporating the CSIRO Bluelink data performed best in terms of through-water column Murphy skill scores of water temperature and eastward velocity variability in the channel. The model captures the observed vertical structure of the tidal (M2) and super-tidal (M4) frequency temperature and velocity oscillations. The model also predicts the direction and magnitude of the M2 internal tide energy flux. An energy analysis reveals a net convergence of the M2 energy flux and a divergence of the M4 energy flux in the channel, indicating the channel is a region of either energy transfer to higher frequencies or energy loss to dissipation. This conclusion is supported by the mooring observations that reveal high frequency lee waves breaking on the turning phase of the tide.

How tides get dissipated in Saturn? A question probably answerable by Cassni

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Luan, Jing

2017-06-01

Tidal dissipation inside a giant planet is important in understanding the orbital evolutions of its natural satellites and perhaps some of the extrasolar giant planets. The tidal dissipation is conventionally parameterized by the tidal quality factor, Q. The corresponding tidal torque declines rapidly with distance adopting constant Q. However, the current fast migration rates of some Saturnian satellites reported by Lainey et al. (2015) conflict this conventional conceptual belief. Alternatively, resonance lock between a satellite and an internal oscillation mode or wave of Saturn, proposed by Fuller et al. (2016), could naturally match the observational migration rates. However, the question still remains to be answered what type of mode or wave is locked with each satellite. There are two candidates for resonance lock, one is gravity mode, and the other is inertial wave attractor. They generate very different gravity acceleration anomaly near the surface of Saturn, which may be distinguishable by the data to be collected by Cassini during its proximal orbits between April and September, 2017. Indicative information about the interior of Saturn may be extracted since the existence of both gravity mode and inertial wave attractor depends on the internal structure of Saturn.

Estimates of Internal Tide Energy Fluxes from Topex/Poseidon Altimetry: Central North Pacific

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Ray, Richard D.; Cartwright, David E.; Smith, David E. (Technical Monitor)

2000-01-01

Energy fluxes for first-mode M(sub 2) internal tides are deduced throughout the central North Pacific Ocean from Topex/Poseidon satellite altimeter data. Temporally coherent internal tide signals in the altimetry, combined with climatological hydrographic data, determine the tidal displacements, pressures, and currents at depth, which yield power transmission rates. For a variety of reasons the deduced rates should be considered lower bounds. Internal tides were found to emanate from several large bathymetric structures, especially the Hawaiian Ridge, where the integrated flux amounts to about six gigawatts. Internal tides are generated at the Aleutian Trench near 172 deg west and propagate southwards nearly 2000 km.

Seasonal variability of atmospheric tides in the mesosphere and lower thermosphere: meteor radar data and simulations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Pokhotelov, Dimitry; Becker, Erich; Stober, Gunter; Chau, Jorge L.

2018-06-01

Thermal tides play an important role in the global atmospheric dynamics and provide a key mechanism for the forcing of thermosphere-ionosphere dynamics from below. A method for extracting tidal contributions, based on the adaptive filtering, is applied to analyse multi-year observations of mesospheric winds from ground-based meteor radars located in northern Germany and Norway. The observed seasonal variability of tides is compared to simulations with the Kühlungsborn Mechanistic Circulation Model (KMCM). It is demonstrated that the model provides reasonable representation of the tidal amplitudes, though substantial differences from observations are also noticed. The limitations of applying a conventionally coarse-resolution model in combination with parametrisation of gravity waves are discussed. The work is aimed towards the development of an ionospheric model driven by the dynamics of the KMCM.

Remote sensing of mesospheric winds with the High-Resolution Doppler Imager

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Hays, Paul B.; Abreu, V. J.; Burrage, M. D.; Gell, D. A.; Grassi, H. J.; Marshall, A. R.; Morton, Y. T.; Ortland, D. A.; Skinner, W. R.; Wu, D. L.

1992-01-01

Observations of the winds in the upper atmosphere obtained with the High-Resolution Doppler Imager (HRDI) on the Upper Atmosphere Research Satellite (UARS) are discussed. This instrument is a very stable high-resolution triple-etalon Fabry-Perot interferometer, which is used to observe the slight Doppler shifts of absorption and emission lines in the O2 Atmospheric bands induced by atmospheric motions. Preliminary observations indicate that the winds in the mesosphere and lower thermosphere are a mixture of migrating and non-migrating tides, and planetary-scale waves. The mean meridional winds are dominated by the 1,1 diurnal tide which is easily extracted from the daily zonal means of the satellite observations. The daily mean zonal winds are a mixture of the diurnal tide and a zonal flow which is consistent with theoretical expectations.

Hurricane Frederic tidal floods of September 12-13, 1979, along the Gulf Coast, Daphne-Point Clear quadrangles, Alabama

USGS Publications Warehouse

Scott, John C.; Bohman, Larry R.

1980-01-01

Shown on a topographic map are floodmark elevations and approximate areas flooded by Hurricane Frederic tides of September 12-13, 1979, along the eastern shore of Mobile Bay generally from Daphne, Alabama, southward through Fairhope and Point Clear to Mullet Point, Alabama. Buildings and sewalls were damaged by flooding and tidal waves in the vicinity of Fairhope, Alabama. Most fishing piers along the shore were either destroyed or severely damaged. From Fairhope southward, many homes and other buildings, including the Grand Hotel complex at Great Point Clear, were severely damaged. Storm-tide frequency and records of annual maximum tides at Mobile, Alabama, since 1772, are presented. Offshore winds reached about 160 miles per hour. A wind-velocity of about 145 miles per hour was recorded near Dauphin Island, Alabama. (USGS)

Nonlinear wave runup in long bays and firths: Samoa 2009 and Tohoku 2011 tsunamis

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Didenkulova, I.; Pelinovsky, E.

2012-04-01

Last catastrophic tsunami events in Samoa on 29 September 2009 and in Japan on 11 March 2011 demonstrated that tsunami may experience abnormal amplification in long bays and firths and result in an unexpectedly high wave runup. The capital city Pago Pago, which is located at the toe of a narrow 4-km-long bay and represents the most characteristic example of a long and narrow bay, was considerably damaged during Samoa 2009 tsunami (destroyed infrastructures, boats and shipping containers carried inland into commercial areas, etc.) The runup height there reached 8 m over an inundation of 538 m at its toe, while the tsunami wave height measured by the tide-gauge at the entrance of the bay was at most 3 m. The same situation was observed during catastrophic Tohoku tsunami in Japan, which coast contains numerous long bays and firths, which experienced the highest wave runup and the strongest amplification. Such examples are villages: Ofunato, Ryori Bay, where the wave runup reached 30 m high, and Onagawa, where the wave amplified up to 17 m. Here we study the nonlinear dynamics of tsunami waves in an inclined U-shaped bay. Nonlinear shallow water equations can in this case be written in 1D form and solved analytically with the use of the hodograph transformation. This approach generalizes the well-known Carrier-Greenspan transformation for long wave runup on a plane beach. In the case of an inclined U-shaped bay it leads to the associated generalized wave equation for symmetrical wave in fractal space. In the special case of the channel of parabolic cross-section it is a spherical symmetrical linear wave equation. As a result, the solution of the Cauchy problem can be expressed in terms of elementary functions and has a simple form (with respect to analysis) for any kind of initial conditions. Wave regimes associated with various localized initial conditions, corresponding to problems of evolution and runup of tsunami, are considered and analyzed. Special attention is paid to the wave breaking criterion. Theoretical estimates of tsunami runup are applied to cases of 2009 Samoa and 2011 Tohoku tsunamis. The data of tide-gauges or computed tide-gauges are used to calculate wave runup for two approximations of the bottom topography: a plane beach and for a narrow bay. It is shown that theory of 1D runup on a plane beach underestimate the tsunami runup height and the influence of the narrow bay geometry should be taken into account. The differences in estimated shoreline velocity, travel time and wave breaking regime, calculated in the framework of these two approximations are also discussed. It is concluded that the wave runup in narrow bays should by calculated by the corresponding formulas, which should be taken into account by TEWS.

Solutions Network Formulation Report. Improving NOAA's Tides and Currents Through Enhanced Data Inputs from NASA's Ocean Surface Topography Mission

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Guest, DeNeice C.

2006-01-01

The Nation uses water-level data for a variety of practical purposes, including hydrography, nautical charting, maritime navigation, coastal engineering, and tsunami and storm surge warnings (NOAA, 2002; Digby et al., 1999). Long-term applications include marine boundary determinations, tidal predictions, sea-level trend monitoring, oceanographic research, and climate research. Accurate and timely information concerning sea-level height, tide, and ocean current is needed to understand their impact on coastal management, disaster management, and public health. Satellite altimeter data products are currently used by hundreds of researchers and operational users to monitor ocean circulation and to improve scientists understanding of the role of the oceans in climate and weather. The NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) National Ocean Service has been monitoring sea-level variations for many years (NOAA, 2006). NOAA s Tides & Currents DST (decision support tool, managed by the Center for Operational Oceanographic Products and Services, is the portal to a vast collection of oceanographic and meteorological data (historical and real-time), predictions, and nowcasts and forecasts. This report assesses the capacity of NASA s satellite altimeter data to meet societal decision support needs through incorporation into NOAA s Tides & Currents.

Three-Dimensional Structures of Thermal Tides Simulated by a Venus GCM

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Takagi, Masahiro; Sugimoto, Norihiko; Ando, Hiroki; Matsuda, Yoshihisa

2018-02-01

Thermal tides in the Venus atmosphere are investigated by using a GCM named as AFES-Venus. The three-dimensional structures of wind and temperature associated with the thermal tides obtained in our model are fully examined and compared with observations. The result shows that the wind and temperature distributions of the thermal tides depend complexly on latitude and altitude in the cloud layer, mainly because they consist of vertically propagating and trapped modes with zonal wave numbers of 1-4, each of which predominates in different latitudes and altitudes under the influence of mid- and high-latitude jets. A strong circulation between the subsolar and antisolar (SS-AS) points, which is equivalent to a diurnal component of the thermal tides, is superposed on the superrotation. The vertical velocity of SS-AS circulation is about 10 times larger than that of the zonal-mean meridional circulation (ZMMC) in 60-70 km altitudes. It is suggested that the SS-AS circulation could contribute to the material transport, and its upward motion might be related to the UV dark region observed in the subsolar and early afternoon regions in low latitudes. The terdiurnal and quaterdiurnal tides, which may be excited by the nonlinear interactions among the diurnal and semidiurnal tides in middle and high latitudes, are detected in the solar-fixed Y-shape structure formed in the vertical wind field in the upper cloud layer. The ZMMC is weak and has a complex structure in the cloud layer; the Hadley circulation is confined to latitudes equatorward of 30°, and the Ferrel-like one appears in middle and high latitudes.

Wind-Driven Waves in Tampa Bay, Florida

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gilbert, S. A.; Meyers, S. D.; Luther, M. E.

2002-12-01

Turbidity and nutrient flux due to sediment resuspension by waves and currents are important factors controlling water quality in Tampa Bay. During December 2001 and January 2002, four Sea Bird Electronics SeaGauge wave and tide recorders were deployed in Tampa Bay in each major bay segment. Since May 2002, a SeaGauge has been continuously deployed at a site in middle Tampa Bay as a component of the Bay Regional Atmospheric Chemistry Experiment (BRACE). Initial results for the summer 2002 data indicate that significant wave height is linearly dependent on wind speed and direction over a range of 1 to 12 m/s. The data were divided into four groups according to wind direction. Wave height dependence on wind speed was examined for each group. Both northeasterly and southwesterly winds force significant wave heights that are about 30% larger than those for northwesterly and southeasterly winds. This difference is explained by variations in fetch due to basin shape. Comparisons are made between these observations and the results of a SWAN-based model of Tampa Bay. The SWAN wave model is coupled to a three-dimensional circulation model and computes wave spectra at each model grid cell under observed wind conditions and modeled water velocity. When SWAN is run without dissipation, the model results are generally similar in wave period but about 25%-50% higher in significant wave height than the observations. The impact of various dissipation mechanisms such as bottom drag and whitecapping on the wave state is being investigated. Preliminary analyses on winter data give similar results.

Internal tides and vertical mixing over the Kerguelen Plateau

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Park, Young-Hyang; Fuda, Jean-Luc; Durand, Isabelle; Naveira Garabato, Alberto C.

2008-03-01

Within the context of the natural iron-fertilization study KEOPS, time series measurements of CTD and LADCP profiles at a site (50.6°S, 72°E; 528 m) coinciding with an annual phytoplankton bloom over the Kerguelen Plateau were made during the January-February 2005 KEOPS cruise. An important activity of highly nonlinear semidiurnal internal tides having peak-to-peak isopycnal displacements of up to 80 m is identified. These internal tides appear to be a principal agent for promoting elevated vertical mixing indispensable for upward transfer of iron within the seasonal thermocline. We estimate local vertical eddy diffusivities of the order of 4×10 -4 m 2 s -1 using a Thorpe scale analysis. Although this estimate is higher by an order of magnitude than the canonical value O (0.1×10 -4 m 2 s -1) in the open ocean away from boundaries, it is consistent with nonlinear internal wave/wave interaction theories, as verified by independent diffusivity estimates using the vertical wavenumber spectral methods for shear and strain. It is also suggested that the general ocean circulation may play an important role in preconditioning the bloom in that the relatively sluggish circulation over the shallow plateau (compared to the much more dynamic neighbouring deep ocean) may foster the bloom's observed annual recurrence over the plateau.

A coupled wave-hydrodynamic model of an atoll with high friction: Mechanisms for flow, connectivity, and ecological implications

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Rogers, Justin S.; Monismith, Stephen G.; Fringer, Oliver B.; Koweek, David A.; Dunbar, Robert B.

2017-02-01

We present a hydrodynamic analysis of an atoll system from modeling simulations using a coupled wave and three-dimensional hydrodynamic model (COAWST) applied to Palmyra Atoll in the Central Pacific. This is the first time the vortex force formalism has been applied in a highly frictional reef environment. The model results agree well with field observations considering the model complexity in terms of bathymetry, bottom roughness, and forcing (waves, wind, metrological, tides, regional boundary conditions), and open boundary conditions. At the atoll scale, strong regional flows create flow separation and a well-defined wake, similar to 2D flow past a cylinder. Circulation within the atoll is typically forced by waves and tides, with strong waves from the north driving flow from north to south across the atoll, and from east to west through the lagoon system. Bottom stress is significant for depths less than about 60 m, and in addition to the model bathymetry, is important for correct representation of flow in the model. Connectivity within the atoll system shows that the general trends follow the mean flow paths. However, some connectivity exists between all regions of the atoll system due to nonlinear processes such as eddies and tidal phasing. Moderate wave stress, short travel time (days since entering the reef system), and low temperature appear to be the most ideal conditions for high coral cover at this site.

A coupled wave-hydrodynamic model of a highly frictional atoll reef system: mechanisms for flow, connectivity, and ecological implications

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Rogers, J.; Monismith, S. G.; Fringer, O. B.; Koweek, D.; Dunbar, R. B.

2016-12-01

We present a hydrodynamic analysis of an atoll system from modeling simulations using a coupled wave and three-dimensional hydrodynamic model (COAWST) applied to Palmyra Atoll in the Central Pacific. This is the first time the vortex force formalism has been applied in a highly frictional reef environment. The model results agree well with field observations considering the model complexity in terms of bathymetry, bottom roughness, and forcing (waves, wind, metrological, tides, regional boundary conditions), and open boundary conditions. At the atoll scale, strong regional flows create flow separation and a well-defined wake, similar to 2D flow past a cylinder. Circulation within the atoll is typically forced by waves and tides, with strong waves from the north driving flow from north to south across the atoll, and from east to west through the lagoon system. Bottom stress is significant for depths less than about 60 m, and in addition to the model bathymetry, is important for correct representation of flow in the model. Connectivity within the atoll system shows that the general trends follow the mean flow paths. However, some connectivity exists between all regions of the atoll system due to nonlinear processes such as eddies and tidal phasing. While high mean flow and travel time less than 20 hours appears to differentiate very productive coral regions, low temperature and moderate wave stress appear to be the most ideal conditions for high coral cover on Palmyra.

Frequency content of sea surface height variability from internal gravity waves to mesoscale eddies

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Savage, Anna C.; Arbic, Brian K.; Richman, James G.; Shriver, Jay F.; Alford, Matthew H.; Buijsman, Maarten C.; Thomas Farrar, J.; Sharma, Hari; Voet, Gunnar; Wallcraft, Alan J.; Zamudio, Luis

2017-03-01

High horizontal-resolution (1/12.5° and 1/25°) 41-layer global simulations of the HYbrid Coordinate Ocean Model (HYCOM), forced by both atmospheric fields and the astronomical tidal potential, are used to construct global maps of sea surface height (SSH) variability. The HYCOM output is separated into steric and nonsteric and into subtidal, diurnal, semidiurnal, and supertidal frequency bands. The model SSH output is compared to two data sets that offer some geographical coverage and that also cover a wide range of frequencies—a set of 351 tide gauges that measure full SSH and a set of 14 in situ vertical profilers from which steric SSH can be calculated. Three of the global maps are of interest in planning for the upcoming Surface Water and Ocean Topography (SWOT) two-dimensional swath altimeter mission: (1) maps of the total and (2) nonstationary internal tidal signal (the latter calculated after removing the stationary internal tidal signal via harmonic analysis), with an average variance of 1.05 and 0.43 cm2, respectively, for the semidiurnal band, and (3) a map of the steric supertidal contributions, which are dominated by the internal gravity wave continuum, with an average variance of 0.15 cm2. Stationary internal tides (which are predictable), nonstationary internal tides (which will be harder to predict), and nontidal internal gravity waves (which will be very difficult to predict) may all be important sources of high-frequency "noise" that could mask lower frequency phenomena in SSH measurements made by the SWOT mission.

What can earth tide measurements tell us about ocean tides or earth structure?

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Baker, T. F.

1978-01-01

Current experimental problems in Earth tides are reviewed using comparisons of tidal gravity and tilt measurements in Europe with loading calculations are examples. The limitations of present day instrumentation and installation techniques are shown as well as some of the ways in which they can be improved. Many of the geophysical and oceanographic investigations that are possible with Earth tide measurements are discussed with emphasis on the percentage accuracies required in the measurements in order to obtain new information about Earth or its oceans.

Dynamic ocean-tide effects on Earth's rotation

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Dickman, S. R.

1993-01-01

This article develops 'broad-band' Liouville equations which are capable of determining the effects on the rotation of the Earth of a periodic excitation even at frequencies as high as semi-diurnal; these equations are then used to predict the rotational effects of altimetric, numerical and 32-constituent spherical harmonic ocean-tide models. The rotational model includes a frequency-dependent decoupled core, the effects of which are especially marked near retrograde diurnal frequencies; and a fully dynamic oceanic response, whose effects appear to be minor despite significant frequency dependence. The model also includes solid-earth effects which are frequency dependent as the result of both anelasticity at long periods and the fluid-core resonance at nearly diurnal periods. The effects of both tidal inertia and relative angular momentum on Earth rotation (polar motion, length of day, 'nutation' and Universal Time) are presented for 32 long- and short-period ocean tides determined as solutions to the author's spherical harmonic tide theory. The lengthening of the Chandler wobble period by the pole tide is also re-computed using the author's full theory. Additionally, using the spherical harmonic theory, tidal currents and their effects on rotation are determined for available numerical and altimetric tide height models. For all models, we find that the effects of tidal currents are at least as important as those of tide height for diurnal and semi-diurnal constituents.

Validation of the Lanzarote Tide Gauges system designed at the Royal Observatory of Belgium

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

van Ruymbeke, Michel; Dumont, Philippe; Seknik, Matej

2017-04-01

A series of tide gauges was set-up in a very favorable site located inside a lava tube plunging in the Atlantic ocean. The damping of waves motion is dramaticaly large, allowing to observe very tight modulations of the sea level. The gauges are based on the EDAS interface connected to a capacitor variying with the level of the sea . Filtering is gained by counting of frequency modulated signal during a one minute interval The scale factor is defined by comparizon of the output signals of sensors and reading the water level at different time. We evaluate the performance of our design by analysing the long series of records at disposal. The analysis is based on a stacking approach to extract components for periodicities existing in the spectrum of sea tides . Concordance of the results between the three gauges recording simultaneously the same signal confirms applicability of our design in such environment. After de-tiding application, the residuals signals are correlated to various physical parameters which could contribute to the understanding of the involved geophysical process.

Combining historical eyewitness accounts on tsunami-induced waves and numerical simulations for getting insights in uncertainty of source parameters

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Rohmer, Jeremy; Rousseau, Marie; Lemoine, Anne; Pedreros, Rodrigo; Lambert, Jerome; benki, Aalae

2017-04-01

Recent tsunami events including the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami and the 2011 Tohoku tsunami have caused many casualties and damages to structures. Advances in numerical simulation of tsunami-induced wave processes have tremendously improved forecast, hazard and risk assessment and design of early warning for tsunamis. Among the major challenges, several studies have underlined uncertainties in earthquake slip distributions and rupture processes as major contributor on tsunami wave height and inundation extent. Constraining these uncertainties can be performed by taking advantage of observations either on tsunami waves (using network of water level gauge) or on inundation characteristics (using field evidence and eyewitness accounts). Despite these successful applications, combining tsunami observations and simulations still faces several limitations when the problem is addressed for past tsunamis events like 1755 Lisbon. 1) While recent inversion studies can benefit from current modern networks (e.g., tide gauges, sea bottom pressure gauges, GPS-mounted buoys), the number of tide gauges can be very scarce and testimonies on tsunami observations can be limited, incomplete and imprecise for past tsunamis events. These observations often restrict to eyewitness accounts on wave heights (e.g., maximum reached wave height at the coast) instead of the full observed waveforms; 2) Tsunami phenomena involve a large span of spatial scales (from ocean basin scales to local coastal wave interactions), which can make the modelling very demanding: the computation time cost of tsunami simulation can be very prohibitive; often reaching several hours. This often limits the number of allowable long-running simulations for performing the inversion, especially when the problem is addressed from a Bayesian inference perspective. The objective of the present study is to overcome both afore-described difficulties in the view to combine historical observations on past tsunami-induced waves and numerical simulations. In order to learn the uncertainty information on source parameters, we treat the problem within the Bayesian setting, which enables to incorporate in a flexible manner the different uncertainty sources. We propose to rely on an emerging technique called Approximate Bayesian Computation ABC, which has been developed to estimate the posterior distribution in modelling scenarios where the likelihood function is either unknown or cannot be explicitly defined. To overcome the computational issue, we combine ABC with statistical emulators (aka meta-model). We apply the proposed approach on the case study of Ligurian (North West of Italy) tsunami (1887) and discuss the results with a special attention paid to the impact of the observational error.

Triggering of frequent turbidity currents in Monterey Canyon and the role of antecedent conditioning

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Clare, M. A.; Rosenberger, K. J.; Talling, P.; Barry, J.; Maier, K. L.; Parsons, D. R.; Simmons, S.; Gales, J. A.; Gwiazda, R.; McGann, M.; Paull, C. K.

2017-12-01

Turbidity currents pose a hazard to seafloor infrastructure, deliver organic carbon and nutrients to deep-sea communities, and form economically important deposits. Thus, determining the tempo of turbidity current activity and whether different triggers result in different flow modes is important. Identification of specific triggers is challenging, however, because most studies of turbidity currents are based on their deposits. New direct monitoring of flows and environmental conditions provides the necessary temporal constraints to identify triggering mechanisms. The Coordinated Canyon Experiment (CCE) in Monterey Canyon, offshore California is the most ambitious attempt yet to measure turbidity flows and their triggers. The CCE provides precise constraint on flow timing, initiation, and potential triggers based on measurements at 7 different instrumented moorings and 2 metocean buoys. Fifteen turbidity flows were measured in 18 months; with recorded velocities >8 m/s and run-outs of up to 50 km. Presence of live estuarine foraminifera within moored sediment traps suggests that that flows originated in water depths of <10 m, but it is unclear specifically how these flows were triggered. Turbidity currents are thought to be triggered by processes including earthquakes, river floods and storm waves. Here we analyse seismicity, local river discharge, internal tides, wave height, direction and period data. We identify no clear control of any of these individual variables on flow timing. None of the recorded earthquakes (

The 2004 Sumatra tsunami in the southeastern Pacific: Coastal and offshore measurements and numerical modeling

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Moore, C. W.; Eble, M. C.; Rabinovich, A.; Titov, V. V.

2016-12-01

The Mw = 9.3 megathrust earthquake of December 26, 2004 off the coast of Sumatra generated a catastrophic tsunami that crossed the Indian Ocean and was widespread in the Pacific and Atlantic oceans being recorded by a great number of coastal tide gauges located in 15-25 thousand kilometers from the source area. The data from these instruments throughout the world oceans enabled estimates of various statistical parameters and energy decay of this event. However, only very few open-ocean records of this tsunami had been obtained. A unique high-resolution record of this tsunami from DART 32401 located offshore of northern Chile, combined with the South American mainland tide gauge measurements and the data from three island stations (San Felix, Juan Fernandez and Easter) enabled us to examine far-field characteristics of the event in the southeastern Pacific and to compare the results of global numerical simulations with observations. The maximum wave height measured at DART 32401 was only 1.8 cm but the signal was very clear and reliable. Despite their small heights, the waves demonstrated consistent spatial and temporal structure and good agreement with DART 46405/NeMO records in the NE Pacific. The travel time from the source area to DART 32401 was 25h 55min in good agreement with the computed travel time (25h 45min) and consistent with the times obtained from the nearby coastal tide gauges. This agreement was much better than it followed from the direct travel time estimation based classical kinematic theory that gave the travel time approximately 1.5 hrs shorter than observed. The later actual arrival of the 2004 tsunami waves corresponds to the most energetically economic path along the mid-ocean ridge wave-guides, which is distinctly reproduced by the numerical model. Also, the numerical model described well the frequency content, amplitudes and general structure of the observed waves at this DART and the three island stations. Maximum wave heights in this region were identified at Arica (72 cm) and Callao (65 cm). The open-ocean and coastal records indicate that the 2004 tsunami wave energy occupied the period band of 6 min to 3.7 hrs with the main energy concentrated at periods of 30 to 70 min and peak values at 40 min.

Collaborative analysis of Planetary Waves in the Mesospheric Neutral Winds with SuperDARN and TIMED Observations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ruohoniemi, J. M.

2004-12-01

The SuperDARN HF radars are best known for observing the ExB drift of ionospheric plasma in the high-latitude F region. At mesospheric altitudes the trails of ionization produced by meteors provide another kind of target for radar backscatter, and the motions imparted to these trails by winds in the neutral atmosphere can be measured. In the northern hemisphere the coverage of mesospheric winds currently extends over a 180 deg longitude sector but is confined by propagation conditions to latitudes near 55 deg geographic. We have analyzed several extended periods of simultaneous observations of the neutral wind involving SuperDARN and the TIMED suite of instruments. Often, the winds show clear evidence of large-scale wave events. The quasi 2-day planetary waves are prominent and their occurrence is seen to depend on season. By comparing the wave characteristics between the satellite and ground observations we obtain a complete breakdown of the wave activity in terms of wave periods and zonal wavenumbers. In addition, the semidiurnal tide is a ubiquitous feature of the mid-latitude mesosphere. A single radar station cannot resolve the sun-synchronous component from other contributions at the semidiurnal frequency. We show that with a chain of radars along a latitude band, the true sun-synchronous, or migrating, component can be inferred. Joint analysis can be performed chiefly with data from the SABRE and TIDI instruments.

Testing tidal theory for evolved stars by using red-giant binaries observed by Kepler

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Beck, P. G.; Mathis, S.; Gallet, F.; Charbonnel, C.; Benbakoura, M.; García, R. A.; do Nascimento, J.-D.

2018-06-01

Tidal interaction governs the redistribution of angular momentum in close binary stars and planetary systems and determines the systems evolution towards the possible equilibrium state. Turbulent friction acting on the equilibrium tide in the convective envelope of low-mass stars is known to have a strong impact on this exchange of angular momentum in binaries. Moreover, theoretical modelling in recent literature as well as presented in this paper suggests that the dissipation of the dynamical tide, constituted of tidal inertial waves propagating in the convective envelope, is weak compared to the dissipation of the equilibrium tide during the red-giant phase. This prediction is confirmed when we apply the equilibrium-tide formalism developed by Zahn (1977), Verbunt & Phinney (1995), and Remus, Mathis & Zahn (2012) onto the sample of all known red-giant binaries observed by the NASA Kepler mission. Moreover, the observations are adequately explained by only invoking the equilibrium tide dissipation. Such ensemble analysis also benefits from the seismic characterisation of the oscillating components and surface rotation rates. Through asteroseismology, previous claims of the eccentricity as an evolutionary state diagnostic are discarded. This result is important for our understanding of the evolution of multiple star and planetary systems during advanced stages of stellar evolution.

The formation and fate of internal waves in the South China Sea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Alford, Matthew H.; Peacock, Thomas; MacKinnon, Jennifer A.; Nash, Jonathan D.; Buijsman, Maarten C.; Centuroni, Luca R.; Chao, Shenn-Yu; Chang, Ming-Huei; Farmer, David M.; Fringer, Oliver B.; Fu, Ke-Hsien; Gallacher, Patrick C.; Graber, Hans C.; Helfrich, Karl R.; Jachec, Steven M.; Jackson, Christopher R.; Klymak, Jody M.; Ko, Dong S.; Jan, Sen; Johnston, T. M. Shaun; Legg, Sonya; Lee, I.-Huan; Lien, Ren-Chieh; Mercier, Matthieu J.; Moum, James N.; Musgrave, Ruth; Park, Jae-Hun; Pickering, Andrew I.; Pinkel, Robert; Rainville, Luc; Ramp, Steven R.; Rudnick, Daniel L.; Sarkar, Sutanu; Scotti, Alberto; Simmons, Harper L.; St Laurent, Louis C.; Venayagamoorthy, Subhas K.; Wang, Yu-Huai; Wang, Joe; Yang, Yiing J.; Paluszkiewicz, Theresa; (David) Tang, Tswen-Yung

2015-05-01

Internal gravity waves, the subsurface analogue of the familiar surface gravity waves that break on beaches, are ubiquitous in the ocean. Because of their strong vertical and horizontal currents, and the turbulent mixing caused by their breaking, they affect a panoply of ocean processes, such as the supply of nutrients for photosynthesis, sediment and pollutant transport and acoustic transmission; they also pose hazards for man-made structures in the ocean. Generated primarily by the wind and the tides, internal waves can travel thousands of kilometres from their sources before breaking, making it challenging to observe them and to include them in numerical climate models, which are sensitive to their effects. For over a decade, studies have targeted the South China Sea, where the oceans' most powerful known internal waves are generated in the Luzon Strait and steepen dramatically as they propagate west. Confusion has persisted regarding their mechanism of generation, variability and energy budget, however, owing to the lack of in situ data from the Luzon Strait, where extreme flow conditions make measurements difficult. Here we use new observations and numerical models to (1) show that the waves begin as sinusoidal disturbances rather than arising from sharp hydraulic phenomena, (2) reveal the existence of >200-metre-high breaking internal waves in the region of generation that give rise to turbulence levels >10,000 times that in the open ocean, (3) determine that the Kuroshio western boundary current noticeably refracts the internal wave field emanating from the Luzon Strait, and (4) demonstrate a factor-of-two agreement between modelled and observed energy fluxes, which allows us to produce an observationally supported energy budget of the region. Together, these findings give a cradle-to-grave picture of internal waves on a basin scale, which will support further improvements of their representation in numerical climate predictions.

The formation and fate of internal waves in the South China Sea.

PubMed

Alford, Matthew H; Peacock, Thomas; MacKinnon, Jennifer A; Nash, Jonathan D; Buijsman, Maarten C; Centurioni, Luca R; Centuroni, Luca R; Chao, Shenn-Yu; Chang, Ming-Huei; Farmer, David M; Fringer, Oliver B; Fu, Ke-Hsien; Gallacher, Patrick C; Graber, Hans C; Helfrich, Karl R; Jachec, Steven M; Jackson, Christopher R; Klymak, Jody M; Ko, Dong S; Jan, Sen; Johnston, T M Shaun; Legg, Sonya; Lee, I-Huan; Lien, Ren-Chieh; Mercier, Matthieu J; Moum, James N; Musgrave, Ruth; Park, Jae-Hun; Pickering, Andrew I; Pinkel, Robert; Rainville, Luc; Ramp, Steven R; Rudnick, Daniel L; Sarkar, Sutanu; Scotti, Alberto; Simmons, Harper L; St Laurent, Louis C; Venayagamoorthy, Subhas K; Wang, Yu-Huai; Wang, Joe; Yang, Yiing J; Paluszkiewicz, Theresa; Tang, Tswen-Yung David

2015-05-07

Internal gravity waves, the subsurface analogue of the familiar surface gravity waves that break on beaches, are ubiquitous in the ocean. Because of their strong vertical and horizontal currents, and the turbulent mixing caused by their breaking, they affect a panoply of ocean processes, such as the supply of nutrients for photosynthesis, sediment and pollutant transport and acoustic transmission; they also pose hazards for man-made structures in the ocean. Generated primarily by the wind and the tides, internal waves can travel thousands of kilometres from their sources before breaking, making it challenging to observe them and to include them in numerical climate models, which are sensitive to their effects. For over a decade, studies have targeted the South China Sea, where the oceans' most powerful known internal waves are generated in the Luzon Strait and steepen dramatically as they propagate west. Confusion has persisted regarding their mechanism of generation, variability and energy budget, however, owing to the lack of in situ data from the Luzon Strait, where extreme flow conditions make measurements difficult. Here we use new observations and numerical models to (1) show that the waves begin as sinusoidal disturbances rather than arising from sharp hydraulic phenomena, (2) reveal the existence of >200-metre-high breaking internal waves in the region of generation that give rise to turbulence levels >10,000 times that in the open ocean, (3) determine that the Kuroshio western boundary current noticeably refracts the internal wave field emanating from the Luzon Strait, and (4) demonstrate a factor-of-two agreement between modelled and observed energy fluxes, which allows us to produce an observationally supported energy budget of the region. Together, these findings give a cradle-to-grave picture of internal waves on a basin scale, which will support further improvements of their representation in numerical climate predictions.

Waves in the middle and upper atmosphere of Mars as seen by the Radio Science Experiment MaRS on Mars Express

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Tellmann, S.; Paetzold, M.; Häusler, B.; Hinson, D. P.; Peter, K.; Tyler, G. L.

2017-12-01

Atmospheric waves play a crucial role in the Martian atmosphere. They are responsible for the redistribution of momentum, energy and dust and for the coupling of the different atmospheric regions on Mars. Almost all kinds of waves have been observed in the lower atmosphere (e.g. stationary and transient waves, baroclinic waves as well as migrating and non-migrating thermal tides, gravity waves, etc...). Atmospheric waves are also known to exist in the middle atmosphere of Mars ( 70-120 km, e.g. by the SPICAM instrument on Mars Express). In the thermosphere, thermal tides have been observed e.g. by radio occultation or accelerometer measurements on MGS. Recently, the NGIMS instrument on MAVEN reported gravity waves in the thermosphere of Mars. Radio Science profiles from the Mars Express Radio Science experiment MaRS on Mars Express can analyse the temperature, pressure and neutral number density profiles in the lower atmosphere (from a few hundred metres above the surface up to 40-50 km) and electron density profiles in the ionosphere of Mars. Wavelike structures have been detected below the main ionospheric layers (M1 & M2) and in the topside of the ionosphere. The two coherent frequencies of the MaRS experiment allow to discriminate between plasma density fluctuations in the ionosphere and Doppler related frequency shifts caused by spacecraft movement. A careful analysis of the observed electron density fluctuations in combination with sensitivity studies of the radio occultation technique will be used to classify the observed fluctuations. The MaRS experiment is funded by DLR under grant 50QM1401.

Waves in the middle and upper atmosphere of Mars as seen by the Radio Science Experiment MaRS on Mars Express

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Tellmann, Silvia Anna; Paetzold, Martin; Häusler, Bernd; Hinson, David P.; Peter, Kerstin; Tyler, G. Leonard

2017-10-01

Atmospheric waves play a crucial role for the dynamics in the Martian atmosphere. They are responsible for the redistribution of momentum, energy and dust and the coupling of the different atmospheric regions on Mars.Almost all kinds of waves have been observed in the lower atmosphere (e.g. stationary and transient waves, baroclinic waves as well as migrating and non-migrating thermal tides, and gravity waves). Atmospheric waves are also known to exist in the middle atmosphere of Mars (~70-120 km, e.g. by the SPICAM instrument on Mars Express). In the thermosphere, thermal tides have been observed e.g. by radio occultation or accelerometer measurements on MGS. Recently, the NGIMS instrument on MAVEN reported gravity waves in the thermosphere of Mars.Radio Science profiles from the Mars Express Radio Science experiment MaRS on Mars Express can analyse the temperature, pressure and neutral number density profiles in the lower atmosphere (from a few hundred metres above the surface up to ~ 40-50 km) and electron density profiles in the ionosphere of Mars.Wavelike structures have been detected below the main ionospheric layers (M1 & M2) and in the topside of the ionosphere. The two coherent frequencies of the MaRS experiment allow to discriminate between plasma density fluctuations in the ionosphere and Doppler related frequency shifts caused by spacecraft movement.A careful analysis of the observed electron density fluctuations in combination with sensitivity studies of the radio occultation technique will be used to classify the observed fluctuations.The MaRS experiment is funded by DLR under grant 50QM1401.

Wave Coupling between the Lower and Middle Thermosphere as Viewed from Quasi-Sun-Synchronous Satellites

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gasperini, Federico

In a society increasingly dependent on space technology, space weather has become a prominent scientific paradigm. In the last decade evidence has shown that terrestrial weather significantly influences space weather. Periodic absorption of solar radiation in local time and longitude by tropospheric water vapor and stratospheric ozone as well as latent heat release in clouds generate a spatially- and temporally-evolving spectrum of global-scale atmospheric waves (i.e., tides, planetary waves and Kelvin waves). A subset of these waves propagates vertically, evolving with height due to wave-mean flow, wave-wave, and wave-plasma interactions, and driving electric fields of tidal origin in the dynamo region. While considerable improvements have been made on the understanding of MLT dynamics, driven in part by the development and deployment of new instruments and techniques, relatively little is known about the coupling of waves in the 120-300 km `thermospheric gap' between satellite remote-sensing and in-situ wave diagnostics. The dissertation herein reveals vertical wave coupling in this height region and quantifies its role in determining thermospheric variability. This objective is accomplished employing quasi-Sun-synchronous satellite measurements (i.e., TIMED, CHAMP, and GOCE) and state-of-the-art numerical modeling simulations (i.e., TIME-GCM/MERRA). Evidence is found for the vertical propagation from the lower to the middle thermosphere of the eastward propagating diurnal tide with zonal wave number 3 (DE3) and the 3-day ultra-fast Kelvin wave (UFKW), two major global-scale atmospheric oscillations of tropospheric origin. These waves are shown to nonlinearly interact and produce secondary waves responsible for significant longitudinal and day-to-day variability. For solar and geomagnetic quiet conditions, atmospheric waves are found to be responsible for up to 60% of the total variability, demonstrating lower atmosphere coupling as a key contributor to thermosphere weather, at least in the absence of major solar-driven variability. Additionally, background atmospheric conditions (i.e., dissipation and zonal mean winds) and found to significantly impact the latitudinal-temporal evolution of upward propagating waves.

Hydrodynamic Impacts on Coastal Erosion and Deposition Processes in Cu Lao Dung (Soc Trang) and Rach Goc (Ca Mau)

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Vo-Luong, H. P.; Phong, N. H.; Tran, D. X.; Ogston, A. S.

2016-02-01

Coastal mangrove forests are special and unique vegetation found in the tropics. They are classified as the most vulnerable ecosystem in coastal ecosystems. Moreover, mangrove forests are dynamic systems that directly influence coastal erosion and deposition processes. Cu Lao Dung (Soc Trang province) and Rach Goc (Ca Mau province) are chosen as studied sites. Although they both belong to the Mekong Delta on the eastern coast of Viet Nam, coastal erosion and deposition processes are different: Cu Lao Dung tends to be aggradational while the Rach Goc area is seriously erosional. This study aims to focus on the impact of hydrodynamics in the coastal processes at the Cu Lao Dung and Rach Goc sites. As part of field measurements in NE and SW monsoons (2014-2015), wave, current, river discharge, suspended sediment concentration, and bathymetry were measured. These data were collected in shallow sub-tidal water, on the muddy flat and within the mangrove forest. The observed data show that waves and current are dissipated quickly from shallow coastal water into the mangroves. They also depend on topography changes, characteristic in mangroves. Suspended sediment concentration increases from shallow water into the mangroves, and fluctuates according to tides, waves and currents. The analyzed data in Cu Lao Dung and Rach Goc are compared and from that, the main factors causing the erosion and deposition in these studied sites are explained.

Ocean Tide Influences on the Antarctic and Greenland Ice Sheets

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Padman, Laurie; Siegfried, Matthew R.; Fricker, Helen A.

2018-03-01

Ocean tides are the main source of high-frequency variability in the vertical and horizontal motion of ice sheets near their marine margins. Floating ice shelves, which occupy about three quarters of the perimeter of Antarctica and the termini of four outlet glaciers in northern Greenland, rise and fall in synchrony with the ocean tide. Lateral motion of floating and grounded portions of ice sheets near their marine margins can also include a tidal component. These tide-induced signals provide insight into the processes by which the oceans can affect ice sheet mass balance and dynamics. In this review, we summarize in situ and satellite-based measurements of the tidal response of ice shelves and grounded ice, and spatial variability of ocean tide heights and currents around the ice sheets. We review sensitivity of tide heights and currents as ocean geometry responds to variations in sea level, ice shelf thickness, and ice sheet mass and extent. We then describe coupled ice-ocean models and analytical glacier models that quantify the effect of ocean tides on lower-frequency ice sheet mass loss and motion. We suggest new observations and model developments to improve the representation of tides in coupled models that are used to predict future ice sheet mass loss and the associated contribution to sea level change. The most critical need is for new data to improve maps of bathymetry, ice shelf draft, spatial variability of the drag coefficient at the ice-ocean interface, and higher-resolution models with improved representation of tidal energy sinks.

Tsunami: India

Atmospheric Science Data Center

2013-04-16

... Animation At 00:58:53 UTC (Coordinated Universal Time) on December 26, 2004, a magnitude 9.0 earthquake occurred off the west ... UTC, when the tide gauge indicated the arrival of another series of waves. Because MISR's nine cameras imaged the coast over a time span ...

Field observations onsSelectivet tidal-stream transport for postlarval and juvenile pink shrimp in florida bay

USGS Publications Warehouse

Criales, Maria M.; Robblee, M.B.; Browder, Joan A.; Cardenas, H.; Jackson, Thomas L.

2011-01-01

Postlarvae and juveniles of pink shrimp were collected in the summers of 2005 and 2006 at three stations in northwestern Florida Bay, the main nursery ground of this species in South Florida. Collections were made at one- or two-hour intervals during three full moon nights and two new moon nights at depth intervals in the water column. Results of the five collections were consistent with the assumption that postlarvae use a flood-tide transport (FTT) to advance into the estuary by ascending in the water column during the dark-flood tide and resting near the bottom during the ebb tide. Evidence of a FTT were higher numbers of postlarvae per hour collected during the flood tide vs. ebb tide and the large number of postlarvae collected with highest velocity flood tide currents. ANOVA indicated significant differences in the number of postlarvae collected between tidal stages and moon phases, but not among depths. Postlarvae were more abundant during new moon than full moon. We also found different patterns of postlarval distribution between the new and full moon. During the new moon, a large peak of postlarvae occurred coincident with highest current speeds, whereas, with one exception, during the full moon postlarvae were more abundant in the second half of the flood period near the slack tide. In contrast, juveniles exhibited a behavior and migratory pattern opposite to that of postlarvae. ANOVA indicated significant differences between the number of juveniles captured between tidal stages and among depths, but not between moon phases. Juveniles were found almost exclusively near the surface on the ebb tide. Significantly larger juveniles were captured on the dark-ebb rather than on the dark-flood tide during both moon phases, suggesting that older juveniles were leaving the Bay on the ebb tide. ?? The Crustacean Society.

Cross-shelf transport into nearshore waters due to shoaling internal tides in San Pedro Bay, CA

USGS Publications Warehouse

Noble, Marlene A.; Burt Jones,; Peter Hamilton,; Xu, Jingping; George Robertson,; Rosenfeld, Leslie; John Largier,

2009-01-01

In the summer of 2001, a coastal ocean measurement program in the southeastern portion of San Pedro Bay, CA, was designed and carried out. One aim of the program was to determine the strength and effectiveness of local cross-shelf transport processes. A particular objective was to assess the ability of semidiurnal internal tidal currents to move suspended material a net distance across the shelf. Hence, a dense array of moorings was deployed across the shelf to monitor the transport patterns associated with fluctuations in currents, temperature and salinity. An associated hydrographic program periodically monitored synoptic changes in the spatial patterns of temperature, salinity, nutrients and bacteria. This set of measurements show that a series of energetic internal tides can, but do not always, transport subthermocline water, dissolved and suspended material from the middle of the shelf into the surfzone. Effective cross-shelf transport occurs only when (1) internal tides at the shelf break are strong and (2) subtidal currents flow strongly downcoast. The subtidal downcoast flow causes isotherms to tilt upward toward the coast, which allows energetic, nonlinear internal tidal currents to carry subthermocline waters into the surfzone. During these events, which may last for several days, the transported water remains in the surfzone until the internal tidal current pulses and/or the downcoast subtidal currents disappear. This nonlinear internal tide cross-shelf transport process was capable of carrying water and the associated suspended or dissolved material from the mid-shelf into the surfzone, but there were no observation of transport from the shelf break into the surfzone. Dissolved nutrients and suspended particulates (such as phytoplankton) transported from the mid-shelf into the nearshore region by nonlinear internal tides may contribute to nearshore algal blooms, including harmful algal blooms that occur off local beaches.

Analysis of tidal currents in the North Sea from shipboard acoustic Doppler current profiler data

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Vindenes, Håvard; Orvik, Kjell Arild; Søiland, Henrik; Wehde, Henning

2018-06-01

North Sea tidal currents are determined by applying harmonic analysis to ship-borne acoustic Doppler current profiler data recorded from 1999 to 2016, covering large areas of the northern North Sea. Direct current measurement data sets of this magnitude are rare in the otherwise well investigated North Sea, and thus it is a valuable asset in studying and expanding our understanding of its tidal currents and circulation in general. The harmonic analysis is applied to a least squares fit of the current observations at a set of knot points. Results from the harmonic analysis compare favorably to tidal parameters estimated from observations from moored instruments. The analysis shows that the tides are characterized by strong semi-diurnal component, with amplitudes of the principal Lunar constituent ranging from 1.6 cm/s in the Skagerrak to 67 cm/s in the Fair Isle Channel. Diurnal tides are found to be approximately one fifth the strength of the predominant semi-diurnal constituent. Output from a regional barotropic tide model compares well to tidal current determined from the harmonic analysis of the Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler data.

Effects of waves on water dispersion in a semi-enclosed estuarine bay

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Delpey, M. T.; Ardhuin, F.; Otheguy, P.

2012-04-01

The bay of Saint Jean de Luz - Ciboure is a touristic destination located in the south west of France on the Basque coast. This small bay is 1.5km wide for 1km long. It is semi-enclosed by breakwaters, so that the area is mostly protected from waves except in its eastern part, where wave breaking is regularly observed over a shallow rock shelf. In the rest of the area the currents are generally weak. The bay receives fresh water inflows from two rivers. During intense raining events, the rivers can introduce pollutants in the bay. The input of pollutants combined with the low level dynamic of the area can affect the water quality for several days. To study such a phenomenon, mechanisms of water dispersion in the bay are investigated. The present paper focuses on the effects of waves on bay dynamics. Several field experiments were conducted in the area, combining wave and current measurements from a set of ADCP and ADV, lagrangian difter experiments in the surfzone, salinity and temperature profile measurements. An analysis of this set of various data is provided. It reveals that the bay combines remarkable density stratification due to fresh water inflows and occasionally intense wave-induced currents in the surfzone. These currents have a strong influence on river plume dynamics when the sea state is energetic. Moreover, modifications of hydrodynamics in the bay passes are found to be remarkably correlated with sea state evolutions. This result suggests a significant impact of waves on the bay flushing. To further analyse these phenomena, a three dimensional numerical model of bay hydrodynamics is developed. The model aims at reproducing fresh water inflows combined with wind-, tide- and wave-induced currents and mixing. The model of the bay is implemented using the code MOHID , which has been modified to allow the three dimensional representation of wave-current interactions proposed by Ardhuin et al. [2008b] . The circulation is forced by the wave field modelled with the code WAVEWATCHIII . A first confrontation between model results and in situ observations is provided, showing a reasonable agreement. ----------------------------------------------------------- 1 Braunschweig, F., Chamble, P., Fernandes, L., Pina, P., Neves, R., The object-oriented design of the integrated modelling system MOHID, Computational Methods in Water Resources International Conference (North Carolina, USA: Chapel Hill). 2 Ardhuin, F., Rascle, N., Belibassakis, K. A., 2008b. Explicit wave-averaged primitive equations using a generalized Lagrangian mean. Ocean Modelling 20, 35-60. 3 Tolman, H. L., 2009. User manual and system documentation of WAVEWATCHIIITM version3.14. Tech. Rep. 276, NOAA/NWS/NCEP/MMAB.

Monitoring storm tide and flooding from Hurricane Isaac along the Gulf Coast of the United States, August 2012

USGS Publications Warehouse

McCallum, Brian E.; McGee, Benton D.; Kimbrow, Dustin R.; Runner, Michael S.; Painter, Jaime A.; Frantz, Eric R.; Gotvald, Anthony J.

2012-01-01

The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) deployed a temporary monitoring network of water-level and barometric pressure sensors at 127 locations along the gulf coast from Alabama to Louisiana to record the timing, areal extent, and magnitude of hurricane storm tide and coastal flooding generated by Hurricane Isaac. This deployment was undertaken as part of a coordinated federal emergency response as outlined by the Stafford Act under a directed mission assignment by the Federal Emergency Management Agency. Storm tide, as defined by National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA; National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, 2008), is the water-level rise generated by a combination of storm surge and astronomical tide during a coastal storm. Hurricane Isaac initially made landfall on the coast of Louisiana in Plaquemines Parish on August 28, 2012, as a Category 1 hurricane on the Saffir–Simpson Hurricane Wind Scale (National Weather Service, 1974) and then stalled over southern Louisiana for several days, causing prolonged storm-tide impacts. A total of 188 water-level and wave-height sensors were deployed at 127 locations during August 27–28 prior to landfall. More than 90 percent of the sensors and all high-water marks (HWMs) were recovered and surveyed to North American Vertical Datum of 1988 (NAVD 88) within 7 days of the Isaac landfall. Only a handful of sensors in the Plaquemines Parish area of Louisiana could not be retrieved until weeks later due to prolonged flooding in the area. Data collected from this event can be used to evaluate the performance of storm-tide models for maximum and incremental water level and flood extent and the site-specific effects of storm tide on natural and anthropogenic features of the environment.

Application of Space Shuttle photography to studies of upper ocean dynamics

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Zheng, Quanan; Klemas, Vic; Yan, Xiao-Hai; Wang, Zongming

1995-01-01

Three studies have been conducted using space shuttle imagery to explain the dynamics behavior of internal waves in the Atlantic and Indian Oceans and to derive tide-related parameters for Delaware Bay. By interpreting space shuttle photographs taken during mission STS-40, a total of 34 internal wave packets on the continental shelf of the Middle Atlantic Bight have been recognized. Using the finite-depth theory we derived that the maximum amplitude of solitons is 5.6 m, the phase speed 0.42 m/s, and the period 23.8 min. Deep-ocean internal waves in the western equatorial Indian Ocean on photographs taken during mission STS-44 were also interpreted and analyzed. The internal waves occurred in the form of a multisoliton packet in which there are about a dozen solitons. The average wavelength of the solitons is 1.8 +/- 0.5 km. The crest lines are mostly straight and reach as long as 100 km. The distance between two adjacent packets is about 66 km. Using the deepwater soliton theory, we derived that the mean amplitude of the solitons is 25 m, the nonlinear phase speed 1.7 m/s, and the average period 18 min. For both cases, the semidiural tides are the principal generating mechanism. The tide-related parameters of Delaware Bay were derived from space shuttle time-series photographs taken during mission STS-40. The water area in the bay were measured from interpretation maps of the photographs. The corresponding tidal levels were calculated using the exposure time. From these data, an approximate function relating the water area to the tidal level at a reference point was determined. Then, the water areas of the Delaware Bay at mean high water (MHW) and mean low water (MLW), below 0 m, for the tidal zone, and the tidal flux were inferred. All parameters derived were reasonable and compared well with results of previous investigations.

Progress Report on the GROWTH (GNSS Reflectometry for Ocean Waves, Tides, and Height) Research Project

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kitazawa, Y.; Ichikawa, K.; Akiyama, H.; Ebinuma, T.; Isoguchi, O.; Kimura, N.; Konda, M.; Kouguchi, N.; Tamura, H.; Tomita, H.; Yoshikawa, Y.; Waseda, T.

2016-12-01

Global Navigation Satellite Systems (GNSS), such as GPS is a system of satellites that provide autonomous geo-spatial positioning with global coverage. It allows small electronic receivers to determine their location to high precision using radio signals transmitted from satellites, GNSS reflectometry (GNSS-R) involves making measurements from the reflections from the Earth of navigation signals from GNSS satellites. Reflected signals from sea surface are considered that those are useful to observe sea state and sea surface height. We have started a research program for GNSS-R applications on oceanographic observations under the contract with MEXT (Ministry of Education Culture, Sports, Science and Technology, JAPAN) and launched a Japanese research consortium, GROWTH (GNSS Reflectometry for Ocean Waves, Tides, and Height). It is aiming to evaluate the capabilities of GNSS-R observations for oceanographic phenomena with different time scales, such as ocean waves (1/10 to tens of seconds), tides (one or half days), and sea surface dynamic height (a few days to years). In situ observations of ocean wave spectrum, wind speed vertical profile, and sea surface height will be quantitatively compared with equivalent estimates from simultaneous GNSS-R measurements. The GROWTH project will utilize different types of observation platforms; marine observation towers (about 20 m height), multi-copters (about 100 to 150 m height), and much higher-altitude CYGNSS data. Cross-platform data, together with in situ oceanographic observations, will be compared after adequate temporal averaging that accounts differences of the footprint sizes and temporal and spatial scales of oceanographic phenomena. This paper will provide overview of the GROWTH project, preliminary test results, obtained by the multi-sensor platform at observation towers, suggest actual footprint sizes and identification of swell. Preparation status of a ground station which will be supplied to receive CYGNSS data at Japan, is also reported. Compatibility tests to CYGNSS data and refurbishment of the ground station were completed.

Development of a new model for short period ocean tidal variations of Earth rotation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Schuh, Harald

2015-08-01

Within project SPOT (Short Period Ocean Tidal variations in Earth rotation) we develop a new high frequency Earth rotation model based on empirical ocean tide models. The main purpose of the SPOT model is its application to space geodetic observations such as GNSS and VLBI.We consider an empirical ocean tide model, which does not require hydrodynamic ocean modeling to determine ocean tidal angular momentum. We use here the EOT11a model of Savcenko & Bosch (2012), which is extended for some additional minor tides (e.g. M1, J1, T2). As empirical tidal models do not provide ocean tidal currents, which are re- quired for the computation of oceanic relative angular momentum, we implement an approach first published by Ray (2001) to estimate ocean tidal current veloci- ties for all tides considered in the extended EOT11a model. The approach itself is tested by application to tidal heights from hydrodynamic ocean tide models, which also provide tidal current velocities. Based on the tidal heights and the associated current velocities the oceanic tidal angular momentum (OTAM) is calculated.For the computation of the related short period variation of Earth rotation, we have re-examined the Euler-Liouville equation for an elastic Earth model with a liquid core. The focus here is on the consistent calculation of the elastic Love num- bers and associated Earth model parameters, which are considered in the Euler- Liouville equation for diurnal and sub-diurnal periods in the frequency domain.

Ocean tides and quasi-stationary departures from the marine geoid investigation

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Siry, J. W.; Kahn, W. D.; Bryan, J. W.; Vonbun, F. O.

1973-01-01

The detection of tides and/or currents through the analysis of data generated in connection with the Ocean Geoid Determination Investigation is presented. A discussion of the detailed objectives and approach are included.

Short-term tidal asymmetry inversion in a macrotidal estuary (Beira, Mozambique)

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Nzualo, Teodósio N. M.; Gallo, Marcos N.; Vinzon, Susana B.

2018-05-01

The distortion of the tide in estuaries, bays and coastal areas is the result of the generation of overtides due to the non-linear effects associated with friction, advection, and the finite effects of the tidal amplitude in shallow waters. The Beira estuary is classified as macrotidal, with a large ratio of S2/M2. Typical tides ranges from 6 m and 0.8 m, during springs and neaps tides, respectively. As a consequence of this large fortnightly tidal amplitude difference and the estuarine morphology, asymmetry inversions occur. Two types of tidal asymmetries were investigated in this paper, one considering tidal duration asymmetry (time difference between rising and falling tide) and the other, related to tidal velocity asymmetry (unequal magnitudes of flood and ebb peaks currents). In the Beira estuary when we examine the tidal duration asymmetry, flood dominance is observed during spring tide periods (negative time difference between rising and falling tide), while ebb dominance appears during neap tides (positive time difference between rising and falling tide). A 2DH hydrodynamic model was implemented to analyze this asymmetry inversion. The model was calibrated with water-level data measured at the Port of Beira and current data measured along the estuary. The model was run for different scenarios considering tidal constituents at the ocean boundary, river discharge and the morphology of the estuary. River discharge did not show significant effects on the tidal duration asymmetry. Through comparison of the scenarios, it was shown that the incoming ocean tide at the boundary has an ebb-dominant asymmetry, changing to flood-dominant only during spring tides due to the effect of shoaling and friction within the estuary. During neap tides, the propagation occurs mainly in the channels, and ebb dominance remains. The interplay between the estuary morphodynamics was thus identified and the relation between tidal duration asymmetry and tidal velocity asymmetry was observed. While fortnightly inversion in the tidal duration asymmetry is explained by the presence of channels and sandbanks, at the same time, the tidal velocity asymmetry acts as a positive feedback mechanism for bank formation and sediment retention.

Comparison of sediment grain size characteristics on nourished and un-nourished estuarine beaches and impacts on horseshoe crab habitat, Delaware Bay, New Jersey

USGS Publications Warehouse

Jackson, N.L.; Smith, D.R.; Nordstrom, K.F.

2005-01-01

This study was undertaken to determine whether nourished and un-nourished estuarine beaches have conspicuous differences in sediment size and sorting that could affect their value as habitat for horseshoe crabs. Comparisons are made of beach profiles and sediment samples gathered at 0.15 m and 0.30 m depths on the backshore, at spring tide elevation, neap tide elevation, and the lower foreshore on 5 un-nourished and 3 nourished beaches in Delaware Bay, where tidal range is <2.0 m. The backshore is at least 0.5 m higher on the recently nourished beaches than on a nearby un-nourished beach reworked by storm waves. Nourishing these beaches to elevations higher than natural overwash heights will restrict natural evolution of the upper beach. Sediments at spring tide elevation on un-nourished sites average 0.72 mm in diameter at 0.15 m depth and 0.67 mm at 0.30 m depth.The similarity in size implies a relatively deep active layer in the zone of maximum cut and fill associated with cyclic profile change during low frequency, high magnitude storms. Sedimentary changes at neap tide elevation may be influenced more by depth of activation by waves than by cycles of deposition and erosion. Sediment at 0.15 m depth at spring and neap locations on the foreshore of nourished beaches is finer (0.51 mm) and better sorted (0.82 phi) than at 0.30 m depth (0.91 mm, 1.38 phi), implying that waves have not reworked the deeper sediments. Differences in sediment characteristics at depth may persist on eroding nourished beaches, where unreworked fill is close to the surface. Sediment texture influences horseshoe crab egg viability and development. Lower rates of water movement through the foreshore and greater thickness of the capillary fringe on nourished sites suggests that greater moisture retention will occur where horseshoe crabs bury eggs and may provide more favorable conditions for egg development, but the depth of these conditions will not be great on a recently nourished beach. ?? 2005 Gebru??der Borntraeger.

Effect of internal tides in the distribution and abundance of microzooplankton in Todos Santos Bay (Ensenada, B.C.)

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Valencia, A.; Ibañez Tejero, L.; Ladah, L. B.; Sanchez Velasco, L.; Barton, E. D.

2016-02-01

Microzooplankton trophically connects phytoplankton and zooplanktonic adults. Their distribution and abundance can be directly related to the inherent physical processes in the marine environment. In coastal waters, the distribution and transport of zooplankton, including microzooplankton, can be influenced by high frequency effects such as internal tides. To date, most of the work on planktonic organisms and their interaction with the internal tide has been focused on a few species, such as barnacles, bryozoans and crabs. The aim of this study was to determine the effect of internal tide on the vertical distribution and abundance of microzooplankton, with an emphasis on copepod nauplii, during the evolution of the internal tide in a summer period of strong thermal stratification. Samples were obtained by vertical plankton net (150 micron mesh) hauls at three depth strata (surface, mid-water and bottom in 25 m depth), independently, with a sampling frequency of every hour. The internal tide was detected by rapid changes in temperature and currents observed with thermistor chains and a bottom-mounted upward looking ADCP. Preliminary results shows a strong mode-1 baroclinic tidal signal. The highest abundance of copepod nauplii and microzooplankton biomass occurred at depth, associated with a strong tidal current. The abundance of copepod nauplii and the abundance of microzooplankton biomass in the surface and intermediate strata showed strong vertical displacements between both strata. Data suggest the vertical distribution of microzooplankton can be dependent on the internal tide.

Longshore Sediment Transport on a Macrotidal Mixed Sediment Beach, Birling Gap, United Kingdom.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Curoy, J.; Moses, C. A.; Robinson, D. A.

2012-04-01

Mixed beaches (MBs), with sediment sizes ranging over three orders of magnitude, are an increasingly important coastal defence on > 1/3 of the shoreline of England and Wales. In East Sussex, the combined effect of coastal defence management schemes (extensive groyning and sea wall construction) has reduced beach sediment supply. Local authorities counteract the increased flood risk by recycling or artificially recharging beaches on the most vulnerable and populated areas. Beaches lose sediment predominantly via longshore transport (LST) whose accurate quantification is critical to calculating recharge amounts needed for effective beach management. Industry does this by using sediment transport modelling which depends on reliable input data and modelling assumptions. To improve understanding of processes and quantification of LST on MBs, this study has accurately measured sediment transport on a natural, macrotidal, MB. The 1.2 km natural MB at Birling Gap, East Sussex here is located on the downdrift end of an 80 km long sub-sedimentary cell and is oriented WNW-ESE. The beach lies on a low gradient chalk shore platform backed by sub-vertical chalk cliffs. It is composed primarily of flint gravel with a peak grain size distribution of 30 to 50 mm, and a sand content of up to 30%. Sediment transport was measured using pebble tracers and GPS surface surveys during three survey periods of three to five consecutive days in March, May and December 2006. Tracer pebbles, matching the beach pebbles' D50, were made of an epoxy resin with a copper core allowing their detection and recovery to a depth of 40 cm using a metal detector. Tracers were deployed on the upper, middle and lower beach, from the surface into the beach to depths of up to 40 cm. They were collected on the low tide following deployment. The wave conditions were recorded on a Valeport DWR wave recorder located seaward of the beach on the chalk platform. Over the three study periods a large spectrum of wave heights (0.1 to 2.6 m) and periods (2 and 13.4 s) was observed. Wave direction varied from 14 to 106° to the beach. In total, up to 300 tracers were used on every day of deployment. The recovery rate after one tide varied from 58.4 to 100%. Significant longshore transport was observed, up to a maximum of 145 m. The results show that pebble behaviour on a natural MB is extremely sensitive to position on the beach profile and to changes in the water level and wave conditions associated with tidal conditions. Longshore sediment transport rates ranged from 0 to 120.55 m3 tide-1. Longshore wave power and immersed longshore transport were calculated and a drift efficiency coefficient of 0.04 was derived. These results contribute to the data bank on LST on MBs. Ultimately they will help to refine the current models used by the industry and support beach managers in anticipating sediment volumes that will be necessary to sustain a MB prior to storm events. Key words: mixed beach, longshore sediment transport, sediment tracer.

Numerical simulation and prediction of coastal ocean circulation

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Chen, P.

1992-01-01

Numerical simulation and prediction of coastal ocean circulation have been conducted in three cases. 1. A process-oriented modeling study is conducted to study the interaction of a western boundary current (WBC) with coastal water, and its responses to upstream topographic irregularities. It is hypothesized that the interaction of propagating WBC frontal waves and topographic Rossby waves are responsible for upstream variability. 2. A simulation of meanders and eddies in the Norwegian Coastal Current (NCC) for February and March of 1988 is conducted with a newly developed nested dynamic interactive model. The model employs a coarse-grid, large domain to account formore » non-local forcing and a fine-grid nested domain to resolve meanders and eddies. The model is forced by wind stresses, heat fluxes and atmospheric pressure corresponding Feb/March of 1988, and accounts for river/fjord discharges, open ocean inflow and outflow, and M[sub 2] tides. The simulation reproduced fairly well the observed circulation, tides, and salinity features in the North Sea, Norwegian Trench and NCC region in the large domain and fairly realistic meanders and eddies in the NCC in the nested region. 3. A methodology for practical coastal ocean hindcast/forecast is developed, taking advantage of the disparate time scales of various forcing and considering wind to be the dominant factor in affecting density fluctuation in the time scale of 1 to 10 days. The density field obtained from a prognostic simulation is analyzed by the empirical orthogonal function method (EOF), and correlated with the wind; these information are then used to drive a circulation model which excludes the density calculation. The method is applied to hindcast the circulation in the New York Bight for spring and summer season of 1988. The hindcast fields compare favorably with the results obtained from the prognostic circulation model.« less

Intraannual variability of tides in the thermosphere from model simulations and in situ satellite observations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Häusler, K.; Hagan, M. E.; Forbes, J. M.; Zhang, X.; Doornbos, E.; Bruinsma, S.; Lu, G.

2015-01-01

In this paper, we provide insights into limitations imposed by current satellite-based strategies to delineate tidal variability in the thermosphere, as well as the ability of a state-of-the-art model to replicate thermospheric tidal determinations. Toward this end, we conducted a year-long thermosphere-ionosphere-mesosphere-electrodynamics general circulation model (TIME-GCM) simulation for 2009, which is characterized by low solar and geomagnetic activity. In order to account for tropospheric waves and tides propagating upward into the ˜30-400 km model domain, we used 3-hourly MERRA (Modern-Era Retrospective Analysis for Research and Application) reanalysis data. We focus on exospheric tidal temperatures, which are also compared with 72 day mean determinations from combined Challenging Minisatellite Payload (CHAMP) and Gravity Recovery and Climate Experiment (GRACE) satellite observations to assess the model's capability to capture the observed tidal signatures and to quantify the uncertainties associated with the satellite exospheric temperature determination technique. We found strong day-to-day tidal variability in TIME-GCM that is smoothed out when averaged over as few as ten days. TIME-GCM notably overestimates the 72 day mean eastward propagating tides observed by CHAMP/GRACE, while capturing many of the salient features of other tidal components. However, the CHAMP/GRACE tidal determination technique only provides a gross climatological representation, underestimates the majority of the tidal components in the climatological spectrum, and moreover fails to characterize the extreme variability that drives the dynamics and electrodynamics of the ionosphere-thermosphere system. A multisatellite mission that samples at least six local times simultaneously is needed to provide this quantification.

Doubling of coastal flooding frequency within decades due to sea-level rise

USGS Publications Warehouse

Vitousek, Sean; Barnard, Patrick L.; Fletcher, Charles H.; Frazer, Neil; Erikson, Li; Storlazzi, Curt D.

2017-01-01

Global climate change drives sea-level rise, increasing the frequency of coastal flooding. In most coastal regions, the amount of sea-level rise occurring over years to decades is significantly smaller than normal ocean-level fluctuations caused by tides, waves, and storm surge. However, even gradual sea-level rise can rapidly increase the frequency and severity of coastal flooding. So far, global-scale estimates of increased coastal flooding due to sea-level rise have not considered elevated water levels due to waves, and thus underestimate the potential impact. Here we use extreme value theory to combine sea-level projections with wave, tide, and storm surge models to estimate increases in coastal flooding on a continuous global scale. We find that regions with limited water-level variability, i.e., short-tailed flood-level distributions, located mainly in the Tropics, will experience the largest increases in flooding frequency. The 10 to 20 cm of sea-level rise expected no later than 2050 will more than double the frequency of extreme water-level events in the Tropics, impairing the developing economies of equatorial coastal cities and the habitability of low-lying Pacific island nations.

High-frequency seismic noise: Results of investigation in Kamchatka

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Saltykov, V.; Chebrov, V.; Kugaenko, Yu.; Sinitsyn, V.

The investigation of seismic noise in Kamchatka is carried out for the control of the medium stress condition and search of the strong earthquakes precursors. The main directions of this research are modulation of high-frequency seismic noise (HFSN, frequency range of the first tens of Hz, amplitudes about 10 -9-10 -12 m) by the Earth tides and temporal variations of HFSN parameters connected with the strong earthquake preparation. For reception of the statistically significant characteristics of HFSN and tides connection it was necessary to carry out long-term HFSN observations in points free from anthropogenous influence as far as possible. The station of HFSN observation was organized in the settlement Nachiky. The sensor is a narrow-band ( Q = 100) piezoelectric seismometer, tuned to frequency 30 Hz. Signal envelope is recorded and analyzed. The continuous HFSN registration was begun in 1990 and proceeds till now. In 2000 the second station was established in the complex geophysical observatory “Karymshina”. The HFSN sensor is set up in the borehole at the depth of 30 m. The research of HFSN structure gave the opportunity to allocate HFSN components connected with the Earth tides. Besides it was revealed that the tidal response is not stable in time: the intervals of the tidal component existence are replaced by intervals of its absence, correlation between tide and HFSN varies in time, while tides have constant parameters. We propose a hypothesis about the connection of variations of the tidal components in HFSN data with the tectonic conditions in region, and consequently, about an opportunity to use this phenomenon for the prediction of strong earthquakes. The phase of the HFSN component connected with a tidal wave O1 ( T = 25.8 h) was chosen as a parameter. The choice of wave O1 is connected with its greatest hindrance-immunity. It was shown that the stabilization of this phase is observed before earthquakes with M > 6.0, occurred at distances up to 250 km from the HFSN registration point, within time from several weeks to several months. Since 1996 such an analysis of the HFSN response to tides is conducted in an operative mode, and only in 1 case out of 19 the large earthquake precursor was not shown in any way.

Deterministic approach for multiple-source tsunami hazard assessment for Sines, Portugal

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wronna, M.; Omira, R.; Baptista, M. A.

2015-11-01

In this paper, we present a deterministic approach to tsunami hazard assessment for the city and harbour of Sines, Portugal, one of the test sites of project ASTARTE (Assessment, STrategy And Risk Reduction for Tsunamis in Europe). Sines has one of the most important deep-water ports, which has oil-bearing, petrochemical, liquid-bulk, coal, and container terminals. The port and its industrial infrastructures face the ocean southwest towards the main seismogenic sources. This work considers two different seismic zones: the Southwest Iberian Margin and the Gloria Fault. Within these two regions, we selected a total of six scenarios to assess the tsunami impact at the test site. The tsunami simulations are computed using NSWING, a Non-linear Shallow Water model wIth Nested Grids. In this study, the static effect of tides is analysed for three different tidal stages: MLLW (mean lower low water), MSL (mean sea level), and MHHW (mean higher high water). For each scenario, the tsunami hazard is described by maximum values of wave height, flow depth, drawback, maximum inundation area and run-up. Synthetic waveforms are computed at virtual tide gauges at specific locations outside and inside the harbour. The final results describe the impact at the Sines test site considering the single scenarios at mean sea level, the aggregate scenario, and the influence of the tide on the aggregate scenario. The results confirm the composite source of Horseshoe and Marques de Pombal faults as the worst-case scenario, with wave heights of over 10 m, which reach the coast approximately 22 min after the rupture. It dominates the aggregate scenario by about 60 % of the impact area at the test site, considering maximum wave height and maximum flow depth. The HSMPF scenario inundates a total area of 3.5 km2.

June 13, 2013 U.S. East Coast Meteotsunami: Comparing a Numerical Model With Observations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wang, D.; Becker, N. C.; Weinstein, S.; Whitmore, P.; Knight, W.; Kim, Y.; Bouchard, R. H.; Grissom, K.

2013-12-01

On June 13, 2013, a tsunami struck the U.S. East Coast and caused several reported injuries. This tsunami occurred after a derecho moved offshore from North America into the Atlantic Ocean. The presence of this storm, the lack of a seismic source, and the fact that tsunami arrival times at tide stations and deep ocean-bottom pressure sensors cannot be attributed to a 'point-source' suggest this tsunami was caused by atmospheric forces, i.e., a meteotsunami. In this study we attempt to reproduce the observed phenomenon using a numerical model with idealized atmospheric pressure forcing resembling the propagation of the observed barometric anomaly. The numerical model was able to capture some observed features of the tsunami at some tide stations, including the time-lag between the time of pressure jump and the time of tsunami arrival. The model also captures the response at a deep ocean-bottom pressure gauge (DART 44402), including the primary wave and the reflected wave. There are two components of the oceanic response to the propagating pressure anomaly, inverted barometer response and dynamic response. We find that the dynamic response over the deep ocean to be much smaller than the inverted barometer response. The time lag between the pressure jump and tsunami arrival at tide stations is due to the dynamic response: waves generated and/or reflected at the shelf-break propagate shoreward and amplify due to the shoaling effect. The evolution of the derecho over the deep ocean (propagation direction and intensity) is not well defined, however, because of the lack of data so the forcing used for this study is somewhat speculative. Better definition of the pressure anomaly through increased observation or high resolution atmospheric models would improve meteotsunami forecast capabilities.

Marshall Islands Fringing Reef and Atoll Lagoon Observations of the Tohoku Tsunami

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ford, Murray; Becker, Janet M.; Merrifield, Mark A.; Song, Y. Tony

2014-12-01

The magnitude 9.0 Tohoku earthquake on 11 March 2011 generated a tsunami which caused significant impacts throughout the Pacific Ocean. A description of the tsunami within the lagoons and on the surrounding fringing reefs of two mid-ocean atoll islands is presented using bottom pressure observations from the Majuro and Kwajalein atolls in the Marshall Islands, supplemented by tide gauge data in the lagoons and by numerical model simulations in the deep ocean. Although the initial wave arrival was not captured by the pressure sensors, subsequent oscillations on the reef face resemble the deep ocean tsunami signal simulated by two numerical models, suggesting that the tsunami amplitudes over the atoll outer reefs are similar to that in deep water. In contrast, tsunami oscillations in the lagoon are more energetic and long lasting than observed on the reefs or modelled in the deep ocean. The tsunami energy in the Majuro lagoon exhibits persistent peaks in the 30 and 60 min period bands that suggest the excitation of closed and open basin normal modes, while energy in the Kwajalein lagoon spans a broader range of frequencies with weaker, multiple peaks than observed at Majuro, which may be associated with the tsunami behavior within the more irregular geometry of the Kwajalein lagoon. The propagation of the tsunami across the reef flats is shown to be tidally dependent, with amplitudes increasing/decreasing shoreward at high/low tide. The impact of the tsunami on the Marshall Islands was reduced due to the coincidence of peak wave amplitudes with low tide; however, the observed wave amplitudes, particularly in the atoll lagoon, would have led to inundation at different tidal phases.

Tidal river dynamics: Implications for deltas

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hoitink, A. J. F.; Jay, D. A.

2016-03-01

Tidal rivers are a vital and little studied nexus between physical oceanography and hydrology. It is only in the last few decades that substantial research efforts have been focused on the interactions of river discharge with tidal waves and storm surges into regions beyond the limit of salinity intrusion, a realm that can extend inland hundreds of kilometers. One key phenomenon resulting from this interaction is the emergence of large fortnightly tides, which are forced long waves with amplitudes that may increase beyond the point where astronomical tides have become extinct. These can be larger than the linear tide itself at more landward locations, and they greatly influence tidal river water levels and wetland inundation. Exploration of the spectral redistribution and attenuation of tidal energy in rivers has led to new appreciation of a wide range of consequences for fluvial and coastal sedimentology, delta evolution, wetland conservation, and salinity intrusion under the influence of sea level rise and delta subsidence. Modern research aims at unifying traditional harmonic tidal analysis, nonparametric regression techniques, and the existing understanding of tidal hydrodynamics to better predict and model tidal river dynamics both in single-thread channels and in branching channel networks. In this context, this review summarizes results from field observations and modeling studies set in tidal river environments as diverse as the Amazon in Brazil, the Columbia, Fraser and Saint Lawrence in North America, the Yangtze and Pearl in China, and the Berau and Mahakam in Indonesia. A description of state-of-the-art methods for a comprehensive analysis of water levels, wave propagation, discharges, and inundation extent in tidal rivers is provided. Implications for lowland river deltas are also discussed in terms of sedimentary deposits, channel bifurcation, avulsion, and salinity intrusion, addressing contemporary research challenges.

Sediment suspension and the dynamic mechanism during storms in the Yellow River Delta.

PubMed

Bian, Shuhua; Hu, Zjian; Liu, Jianqiang; Zhu, Zichen

2016-12-01

The suspension and hydrodynamic characteristics of the Yellow River Delta during storms were analyzed based on suspended samples obtained using automatic samplers during a storm event in the Yellow River Delta. Synchronous data for winds, waves, and tides were also collected from a nearby station. The results show that under wind speeds of 5-15 m/s and wave heights of 50-150 cm, the suspended content reached 5.7-49.6 kg/m 3 , which is 10-100 times higher than that under normal weather conditions. The medium diameter of suspended particles was 1.2-2.1 μm (8.9-9.7 Φ), which was approximately 1-2 Φ finer than that under normal weather conditions. During the early stages of the measurements, the sea level had risen by 50 cm owing to the storm, which was in addition to the tidal sea level change. We suggest that during the storms, the waves strengthened and the storm-induced sea level change, which was combined with tidal currents moving in the same direction, produced high-speed currents. This overcame the cohesive forces among the fine sediment particles and suspended a large amount of sediment. As a result, the suspended content increased markedly and the suspended particle size became finer. This explains the intense siltation and erosion of the Yellow River Delta during storms.

Is there an endogenous tidal foraging rhythm in marine iguanas?

PubMed

Wikelski, M; Hau, M

1995-12-01

As strictly herbivorous reptiles, Galápagos marine iguanas graze on algae in the intertidal areas during low tide. Daily foraging rhythms were observed on two islands during 3 years to determine the proximate factors underlying behavioral synchrony with the tides. Marine iguanas walked to their intertidal foraging grounds from far-off resting areas in anticipation of the time of low tide. Foraging activity was restricted to daytime, resulting in a complex bitidal rhythm including conspicuous switches from afternoon foraging to foraging during the subsequent morning when low tide occurred after dusk. The animals anticipated the daily low tide by a maximum of 4 h. The degree of anticipation depended on environmental parameters such as wave action and food supply. "Early foragers" survived in greater numbers than did animals arriving later at foraging sites, a result indicating selection pressure on the timing of anticipation. The timing of foraging trips was better predicted by the daily changes in tabulated low tide than it was by the daily changes in actual exposure of the intertidal foraging flats, suggesting an endogenous nature of the foraging rhythms. Endogenous rhythmicity would also explain why iguanas that had spontaneously fasted for several days nevertheless went foraging at the "right" time of day. A potential lunar component of the foraging rhythmicity of marine iguanas showed up in their assemblage on intertidal rocks during neap tide nights. This may indicate that iguanas possessed information on the semi-monthly rhythms in tide heights. Enclosure experiments showed that bitidal foraging rhythms of iguanas may free run in the absence of direct cues from the intertidal areas and operate independent of the light:dark cycle and social stimuli. Therefore, the existence of a circatidal oscillator in marine iguanas is proposed. The bitidal foraging pattern may result from an interaction of a circadian system with a circatidal system. Food intake or related stimuli may be used as tidal zeitgebers in synchronizing the foraging rhythms of these reptiles under natural conditions.

Modeling Study of Mesospheric Planetary Waves: Genesis and Characteristics

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Mayr, H. G.; Mengel, J. G.; Talaat, E. L.; Porter, H. S.; Chan, K. L.

2003-01-01

In preparation for the measurements from the TIMED mission and coordinated ground based observations, we discuss results for the planetary waves (PWs) that appear in our Numerical Spectral Model (NSM). The present model accounts for a tropospheric heat source in the zonal mean (m = 0), which reproduces qualitatively the observed zonal jets near the tropopause and the accompanying reversal in the latitudinal temperature variations. We discuss the PWs that are solely generated internally, i.e., without the explicit excitation sources related to tropospheric convection or topography. Our analysis shows that PWs are not produced when the zonally averaged heat source into the atmosphere is artificially suppressed, and that the PWs generally are significantly weaker when the tropospheric source is not applied. Instabilities associated with the zonal mean temperature, pressure and wind fields, which still need to be explored, are exciting PWs that have amplitudes in the mesosphere comparable to those observed. Three classes of PWs are generated in the NSM. (1) Rossby waves, (2) Rossby gravity waves propagating westward at low latitudes, and (3) Eastward propagating equatorial Kelvin waves. A survey of the PWs reveals that the largest wind amplitudes tend to occur below 80 km in the winter hemisphere, but above that altitude they occur in the summer hemisphere where the amplitudes can approach 50 meters per second. It is shown that the non-migrating tides in the mesosphere, generated by non-linear coupling between migrating tides and PWs, are significantly larger for the model with the tropospheric heat source.

Observed and modeled tsunami current velocities in Humboldt Bay and Crescent City Harbor, northern California

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Admire, A. R.; Dengler, L.; Crawford, G. B.; uslu, B. U.; Montoya, J.

2012-12-01

A pilot project was initiated in 2009 in Humboldt Bay, about 370 kilometers (km) north of San Francisco, California, to measure the currents produced by tsunamis. Northern California is susceptible to both near- and far-field tsunamis and has a historic record of damaging events. Crescent City Harbor, located approximately 100 km north of Humboldt Bay, suffered US 20 million in damages from strong currents produced by the 2006 Kuril Islands tsunami and an additional US 20 million from the 2011 Japan tsunami. In order to better evaluate these currents in northern California, we deployed a Nortek Aquadopp 600kHz 2D Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) with a one-minute sampling interval in Humboldt Bay, near the existing National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) National Ocean Service (NOS) tide gauge station. The instrument recorded the tsunamis produced by the Mw 8.8 Chile earthquake on February 27, 2010 and the Mw 9.0 Japan earthquake on March 11, 2011. Currents from the 2010 tsunami persisted in Humboldt Bay for at least 30 hours with peak amplitudes of about 0.3 meters per second (m/s). The 2011 tsunami signal lasted for over 86 hours with peak amplitude of 0.95 m/s. Strongest currents corresponded to the maximum change in water level as recorded on the NOAA NOS tide gauge, and occurred 90 minutes after the initial wave arrival. No damage was observed in Humboldt Bay for either event. In Crescent City, currents for the first three and a half hours of the 2011 Japan tsunami were estimated using security camera video footage from the Harbor Master building across from the entrance to the small boat basin, approximately 70 meters away from the NOAA NOS tide gauge station. The largest amplitude tide gauge water-level oscillations and most of the damage occurred within this time window. The currents reached a velocity of approximately 4.5 m/s and six cycles exceeded 3 m/s during this period. Measured current velocities both in Humboldt Bay and in Crescent City were compared to calculated velocities from the Method of Splitting Tsunamis (MOST) numerical model. For Humboldt Bay, the 2010 model tsunami frequencies matched the actual values for the first two hours after the initial arrival however the amplitudes were underestimated by approximately 65%. MOST replicated the first four hours of the 2011 tsunami signal in Humboldt Bay quite well although the peak flood currents were underestimated by about 50%. MOST predicted attenuation of the signal after four hours but the actual signal persisted at a nearly constant level for more than 48 hours. In Crescent City, the model prediction of the 2011 frequency agreed quite well with the observed signal for the first two and a half hours after the initial arrival with a 50% underestimation of the peak amplitude. The results from this project demonstrate that ADCPs can effectively record tsunami currents for small to moderate events and can be used to calibrate and validate models (i.e. MOST) in order to better predict hazardous tsunami conditions and improve planned responses to protect lives and property, especially within harbors. An ADCP will be installed in Crescent City Harbor and four additional ADCPs are being deployed in Humboldt Bay during the fall of 2012.

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Vigeant, Paul; Miller, John; Howes, Brian

Project Goals: The funding provided by this contract supported the following activities: A) Test Site Development; B) Seed Grant Funded Technology Development; C) Stakeholder Activities The first year of funding was dedicated to the formation of the NE MREC University Consortium which was comprised of University of Massachusetts Dartmouth (UMD) and Amherst (UMA), Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (WHOI), University of New Hampshire (UNH), and the University of Rhode Island (URI). The consortium worked together to encourage research and promote benefits of obtaining energy from ocean wind, waves, tides and currents. In addition, NE MREC’s goalmore » was to fund projects aimed at potential test sites with the first year funding going to studies of the potential for tidal device testing in Muskeget Channel, at the General Sullivan Bridge in New Hampshire, and for wave device testing at the proposed National Offshore Renewable Energy Innovation Zone (NOREIZ) located off the Massachusetts coast. The project spanned 4.5 years and addressed three specific tasks that are interrelated but also served as independent investigations.« less

Coherence between coastal and river flooding along the California coast

USGS Publications Warehouse

Odigie, Kingsley O.; Warrick, Jonathan

2018-01-01

Water levels around river mouths are intrinsically determined by sea level and river discharge. If storm-associated coastal water-level anomalies coincide with extreme river discharge, landscapes near river mouths will be flooded by the hydrodynamic interactions of these two water masses. Unfortunately, the temporal relationships between ocean and river water masses are not well understood. The coherence between extreme river discharge and coastal water levels at six California river mouths across different climatic and geographic regions was examined. Data from river gauges, wave buoys, and tide gauges from 2007 to 2014 were integrated to investigate the relationships between extreme river discharge and coastal water levels near the mouths of the Eel, Russian, San Lorenzo, Ventura, Arroyo Trabuco, and San Diego rivers. Results indicate that mean and extreme coastal water levels during extreme river discharge are significantly higher compared with background conditions. Elevated coastal water levels result from the combination of nontidal residuals (NTRs) and wave setups. Mean and extreme (>99th percentile of observations) NTRs are 3–20 cm and ∼30 cm higher during extreme river discharge conditions, respectively. Mean and extreme wave setups are up to 40 cm and ∼20–90 cm higher during extreme river discharge than typical conditions, respectively. These water-level anomalies were generally greatest for the northern rivers and least for the southern rivers. Time-series comparisons suggest that increases in NTRs are largely coherent with extreme river discharge, owing to the low atmospheric pressure systems associated with storms. The potential flooding risks of the concurrent timing of these water masses are tempered by the mixed, semidiurnal tides of the region that have amplitudes of 2–2.5 m. In summary, flooding hazard assessments for floodplains near California river mouths for current or future conditions with sea-level rise should include the temporal coherence of fluvial and oceanic water levels.

Tsunami Amplitude Estimation from Real-Time GNSS.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Jeffries, C.; MacInnes, B. T.; Melbourne, T. I.

2017-12-01

Tsunami early warning systems currently comprise modeling of observations from the global seismic network, deep-ocean DART buoys, and a global distribution of tide gauges. While these tools work well for tsunamis traveling teleseismic distances, saturation of seismic magnitude estimation in the near field can result in significant underestimation of tsunami excitation for local warning. Moreover, DART buoy and tide gauge observations cannot be used to rectify the underestimation in the available time, typically 10-20 minutes, before local runup occurs. Real-time GNSS measurements of coseismic offsets may be used to estimate finite faulting within 1-2 minutes and, in turn, tsunami excitation for local warning purposes. We describe here a tsunami amplitude estimation algorithm; implemented for the Cascadia subduction zone, that uses continuous GNSS position streams to estimate finite faulting. The system is based on a time-domain convolution of fault slip that uses a pre-computed catalog of hydrodynamic Green's functions generated with the GeoClaw shallow-water wave simulation software and maps seismic slip along each section of the fault to points located off the Cascadia coast in 20m of water depth and relies on the principle of the linearity in tsunami wave propagation. The system draws continuous slip estimates from a message broker, convolves the slip with appropriate Green's functions which are then superimposed to produce wave amplitude at each coastal location. The maximum amplitude and its arrival time are then passed into a database for subsequent monitoring and display. We plan on testing this system using a suite of synthetic earthquakes calculated for Cascadia whose ground motions are simulated at 500 existing Cascadia GPS sites, as well as real earthquakes for which we have continuous GNSS time series and surveyed runup heights, including Maule, Chile 2010 and Tohoku, Japan 2011. This system has been implemented in the CWU Geodesy Lab for the Cascadia subduction zone but will be expanded to the circum-Pacific as real-time processing of international GNSS data streams become available.

A simple approach to adjust tidal forcing in fjord models

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hjelmervik, Karina; Kristensen, Nils Melsom; Staalstrøm, André; Røed, Lars Petter

2017-07-01

To model currents in a fjord accurate tidal forcing is of extreme importance. Due to complex topography with narrow and shallow straits, the tides in the innermost parts of a fjord are both shifted in phase and altered in amplitude compared to the tides in the open water outside the fjord. Commonly, coastal tide information extracted from global or regional models is used on the boundary of the fjord model. Since tides vary over short distances in shallower waters close to the coast, the global and regional tidal forcings are usually too coarse to achieve sufficiently accurate tides in fjords. We present a straightforward method to remedy this problem by simply adjusting the tides to fit the observed tides at the entrance of the fjord. To evaluate the method, we present results from the Oslofjord, Norway. A model for the fjord is first run using raw tidal forcing on its open boundary. By comparing modelled and observed time series of water level at a tidal gauge station close to the open boundary of the model, a factor for the amplitude and a shift in phase are computed. The amplitude factor and the phase shift are then applied to produce adjusted tidal forcing at the open boundary. Next, we rerun the fjord model using the adjusted tidal forcing. The results from the two runs are then compared to independent observations inside the fjord in terms of amplitude and phases of the various tidal components, the total tidal water level, and the depth integrated tidal currents. The results show improvements in the modelled tides in both the outer, and more importantly, the inner parts of the fjord.

Physical-biological coupling induced aggregation mechanism for the formation of high biomass red tides in low nutrient waters.

PubMed

Lai, Zhigang; Yin, Kedong

2014-01-01

Port Shelter is a semi-enclosed bay in northeast Hong Kong where high biomass red tides are observed to occur frequently in narrow bands along the local bathymetric isobars. Previous study showed that nutrients in the Bay are not high enough to support high biomass red tides. The hypothesis is that physical aggregation and vertical migration of dinoflagellates appear to be the driving mechanism to promote the formation of red tides in this area. To test this hypothesis, we used a high-resolution estuarine circulation model to simulate the near-shore water dynamics based on in situ measured temperature/salinity profiles, winds and tidal constitutes taken from a well-validated regional tidal model. The model results demonstrated that water convergence occurs in a narrow band along the west shore of Port Shelter under a combined effect of stratified tidal current and easterly or northeasterly wind. Using particles as dinoflagellate cells and giving diel vertical migration, the model results showed that the particles aggregate along the convergent zone. By tracking particles in the model predicted current field, we estimated that the physical-biological coupled processes induced aggregation of the particles could cause 20-45 times enhanced cell density in the convergent zone. This indicated that a high cell density red tide under these processes could be initialized without very high nutrients concentrations. This may explain why Port Shelter, a nutrient-poor Bay, is the hot spot for high biomass red tides in Hong Kong in the past 25 years. Our study explains why red tide occurrences are episodic events and shows the importance of taking the physical-biological aggregation mechanism into consideration in the projection of red tides for coastal management. Copyright © 2013 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

The DEBOT Model, a New Global Barotropic Ocean Tidal Model: Test Computations and an Application in Related Geophysical Disciplines

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Einspigel, D.; Sachl, L.; Martinec, Z.

2014-12-01

We present the DEBOT model, which is a new global barotropic ocean model. The DEBOT model is primarily designed for modelling of ocean flow generated by the tidal attraction of the Moon and the Sun, however it can be used for other ocean applications where the barotropic model is sufficient, for instance, a tsunami wave propagation. The model has been thoroughly tested by several different methods: 1) synthetic example which involves a tsunami-like wave propagation of an initial Gaussian depression and testing of the conservation of integral invariants, 2) a benchmark study with another barotropic model, the LSGbt model, has been performed and 3) results of realistic simulations have been compared with data from tide gauge measurements around the world. The test computations prove the validity of the numerical code and demonstrate the ability of the DEBOT model to simulate the realistic ocean tides. The DEBOT model will be principaly applied in related geophysical disciplines, for instance, in an investigation of an influence of the ocean tides on the geomagnetic field or the Earth's rotation. A module for modelling of the secondary poloidal magnetic field generated by an ocean flow is already implemented in the DEBOT model and preliminary results will be presented. The future aim is to assimilate magnetic data provided by the Swarm satellite mission into the ocean flow model.

Displacement and dissipation under the rotating tidal potential, in contrast to Love's geostationary potential

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bostrom, R. C.

The Earth rotates relative to the solunar gravity field. In consequence the M2, S2 tides are represented by permanent bulges, travelling westward around the Earth as distortion waves. The associated tidal stress ellipsoid progresses perpetually by rotation, without reversal. It is shown that under imperfect elasticity, in lieu of the body forces induced by Love's geostationary time-variant potential a rotating potential induces internal body couples, equally pervasive. Displacement is cumulative, and in the vortical mode formulated by Helmholtz (1858). Whereas in the geostationary formulation of Love cumulative distortion is nil, in actuality this motion is primary, and dimensionally capable of coupling with extant mantle convection. Unlike the marine tides, the bodily wave-tides proceed unhindered around the Earth unhindered by continental margins. Corrected for oceanic effects the complex Love numbers measure dissipation, as commonly supposed. However dissipation is the result of unmapped cumulative vortical displacement (a circulation component), rather than oscillatory forces having the form of a geographically stationary spheroidal eigenvibration. The characteristic period of the loss factor 1/Q is infinity rather than the period pertinent to seismicity or wobble, to which it is dimensionally unrelated. Although primary vorticity-induction is required by the existence of the rotating tidal potential, its tectonic consequences are a matter of speculation, treated elsewhere [1]. --- [1] Bostrom, R.C., 1998. Tectonic Consequences of the Earth's Rotation. Oxfo rd University Press.

Semidiurnal thermal tides in asynchronously rotating hot Jupiters

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Auclair-Desrotour, P.; Leconte, J.

2018-05-01

Context. Thermal tides can torque the atmosphere of hot Jupiters into asynchronous rotation, while these planets are usually assumed to be locked into spin-orbit synchronization with their host star. Aims: In this work, our goal is to characterize the tidal response of a rotating hot Jupiter to the tidal semidiurnal thermal forcing of its host star by identifying the structure of tidal waves responsible for variation of mass distribution, their dependence on the tidal frequency, and their ability to generate strong zonal flows. Methods: We develop an ab initio global modelling that generalizes the early approach of Arras & Socrates (2010, ApJ, 714, 1) to rotating and non-adiabatic planets. We analytically derive the torque exerted on the body and the associated timescales of evolution, as well as the equilibrium tidal response of the atmosphere in the zero-frequency limit. Finally, we numerically integrate the equations of thermal tides for three cases, including dissipation and rotation step by step. Results: The resonances associated with tidally generated gravito-inertial waves significantly amplify the resulting tidal torque in the range 1-30 days. This torque can globally drive the atmosphere into asynchronous rotation, as its sign depends on the tidal frequency. The resonant behaviour of the tidal response is enhanced by rotation, which couples the forcing to several Hough modes in the general case, while the radiative cooling tends to regularize it and diminish its amplitude.

Ground-based Observations for the Upper Atmosphere at King Sejong Station, Antarctica

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Jee, Geonhwa; Kim, Jeong-Han; Lee, Changsup; Kim, Yong Ha

2014-06-01

Since the operation of the King Sejong Station (KSS) started in Antarctic Peninsula in 1989, there have been continuous efforts to perform the observation for the upper atmosphere. The observations during the initial period of the station include Fabry-Perot Interferometer (FPI) and Michelson Interferometer for the mesosphere and thermosphere, which are no longer in operation. In 2002, in collaboration with York University, Canada, the Spectral Airglow Temperature Imager (SATI) was installed to observe the temperature in the mesosphere and lower thermosphere (MLT) region and it has still been producing the mesopause temperature data until present. The observation was extended by installing the meteor radar in 2007 to observe the neutral winds and temperature in the MLT region during the day and night in collaboration with Chungnam National University. We also installed the all sky camera in 2008 to observe the wave structures in the MLT region. All these observations are utilized to study on the physical characteristics of the MLT region and also on the wave phenomena such as the tide and gravity wave in the upper atmosphere over KSS that is well known for the strong gravity wave activity. In this article, brief introductions for the currently operating instruments at KSS will be presented with their applications for the study of the upper atmosphere

Middle Atmosphere Program. Handbook for MAP, volume 4

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Sechrist, C. F., Jr. (Editor)

1982-01-01

Topics include winter in the Northern Hemisphere, temperature measurement, geopotential heights, wind measurement, atmospheric motions, photochemical reactions, solar spectral irradiance, trace constituents, tides, gravity waves, and turbulence. Highlights from the Map Steering Committee and a Map Open Meeting including organizational structure are also given.

Tidally influenced alongshore circulation at an inlet-adjacent shoreline

USGS Publications Warehouse

Hansen, Jeff E.; Elias, Edwin P.L.; List, Jeffrey H.; Erikson, Li H.; Barnard, Patrick L.

2013-01-01

The contribution of tidal forcing to alongshore circulation inside the surfzone is investigated at a 7 km long sandy beach adjacent to a large tidal inlet. Ocean Beach in San Francisco, CA (USA) is onshore of a ∼150 km2 ebb-tidal delta and directly south of the Golden Gate, the sole entrance to San Francisco Bay. Using a coupled flow-wave numerical model, we find that the tides modulate, and in some cases can reverse the direction of, surfzone alongshore flows through two separate mechanisms. First, tidal flow through the inlet results in a barotropic tidal pressure gradient that, when integrated across the surfzone, represents an important contribution to the surfzone alongshore force balance. Even during energetic wave conditions, the tidal pressure gradient can account for more than 30% of the total alongshore pressure gradient (wave and tidal components) and up to 55% during small waves. The wave driven component of the alongshore pressure gradient results from alongshore wave height and corresponding setup gradients induced by refraction over the ebb-tidal delta. Second, wave refraction patterns over the inner shelf are tidally modulated as a result of both tidal water depth changes and strong tidal flows (∼1 m/s), with the effect from currents being larger. These tidally induced changes in wave refraction result in corresponding variability of the alongshore radiation stress and pressure gradients within the surfzone. Our results indicate that tidal contributions to the surfzone force balance can be significant and important in determining the direction and magnitude of alongshore flow.

Sedimentary Facies and Stratigraphy of the Changjiang (Yangtze River) Delta

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Dalrymple, R. W.; Zhang, X.; Lin, C. M.

2017-12-01

A disproportionate number of the world's largest deltas are tide-dominated or strongly tide-influenced, in part because the low gradient of these rivers allows the tide to penetrate far inland, generating strong tidal currents at the river mouth. These deltas also tend to be mud-dominated because a significant fraction of the bedload is trapped farther inland. Despite their great importance as sediment depo-centers, as analogues for ancient sedimentary successions, and as areas of intense human occupation, they are the most poorly understood coastal system. The Changjiang (Yangtze River), the 4th largest river in the world in terms of sediment discharge, is one such tide-dominated system, with a mean tidal range of 2.7 m and tidal-current speeds of 1 m/s at its mouth. It shows a fairly typical series of low-relief channels and bars in the mouth-bar area and passes seaward and down-drift into a coastal mud belt that extends 800 km to the south of the river mouth. The deposits from both the transgressive-phase and modern delta are all dominated by mud, except for the fluvial-channel deposits that are clean sand. Channel-floor deposits in areas with appreciable tidal influence contain abundant fluid-mud layers (1-3 cm thick), intercalated with relatively coarse sand; such mud layers show evidence of tidal cyclicity. The overlying tidal-bar deposits commonly become sandier upward because of the upward loss of fluid-mud layers. The tidal channels and bars that characterize the mouth-bar and delta-front area are dominated by randomly organized structureless mud layers, 5-30 cm thick, that are interpreted to be storm-generated fluid-mud deposits. These mud layers become less abundant upward, generating upward-sanding successions. These facies are very similar to those seen in the Amazon and Fly River deltas, suggesting that this is a common motif, and indicating the importance of fluid mud in the dynamics of such systems. Facies proximality can be determined by careful comparison of sand-size trends, tidal mud-layer thicknesses (relative to the turbidity maximum) and the abundance of wave-generated fluid-mud layers. Application of these concepts shows that the transgressive phase of the delta consists of three retrogradationally stacked parasequences, each 7-15 m thick, overlain by the 40 m-thick highstand delta.

Catching the Tide: A Review of Tidal Energy Systems

ERIC Educational Resources Information Center

Harris, Frank

2014-01-01

Harnessing energy from the tides is a much-promoted but rarely realised way of generating electricity. This article examines some of the systems that are currently in use or under development, and outlines their economic, environmental and technical implications.

Internal tide generation by abyssal hills using analytical theory

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Melet, Angélique; Nikurashin, Maxim; Muller, Caroline; Falahat, S.; Nycander, Jonas; Timko, Patrick G.; Arbic, Brian K.; Goff, John A.

2013-11-01

Internal tide driven mixing plays a key role in sustaining the deep ocean stratification and meridional overturning circulation. Internal tides can be generated by topographic horizontal scales ranging from hundreds of meters to tens of kilometers. State of the art topographic products barely resolve scales smaller than ˜10 km in the deep ocean. On these scales abyssal hills dominate ocean floor roughness. The impact of abyssal hill roughness on internal-tide generation is evaluated in this study. The conversion of M2 barotropic to baroclinic tidal energy is calculated based on linear wave theory both in real and spectral space using the Shuttle Radar Topography Mission SRTM30_PLUS bathymetric product at 1/120° resolution with and without the addition of synthetic abyssal hill roughness. Internal tide generation by abyssal hills integrates to 0.1 TW globally or 0.03 TW when the energy flux is empirically corrected for supercritical slope (i.e., ˜10% of the energy flux due to larger topographic scales resolved in standard products in both cases). The abyssal hill driven energy conversion is dominated by mid-ocean ridges, where abyssal hill roughness is large. Focusing on two regions located over the Mid-Atlantic Ridge and the East Pacific Rise, it is shown that regionally linear theory predicts an increase of the energy flux due to abyssal hills of up to 100% or 60% when an empirical correction for supercritical slopes is attempted. Therefore, abyssal hills, unresolved in state of the art topographic products, can have a strong impact on internal tide generation, especially over mid-ocean ridges.

Tidal asymmetry and variability of bed shear stress and sediment bed flux at a site in San Francisco Bay, USA

USGS Publications Warehouse

Brennan, Matthew L.; Schoellhamer, David H.; Burau, Jon R.; Monismith, Stephen G.; Winterwerp, J.C.; Kranenburg, C.

2002-01-01

The relationship between sediment bed flux and bed shear stress during a pair of field experiments in a partially stratified estuary is examined in this paper. Time series of flow velocity, vertical density profiles, and suspended sediment concentration were measured continuously throughout the water column and intensely within 1 meter of the bed. These time series were analyzed to determine bed shear stress, vertical turbulent sediment flux, and mass of sediment suspended in the water column. Resuspension, as inferred from near-bed measurements of vertical turbulent sediment flux, was flood dominant, in accordance with the flood-dominant bed shear stress. Bathymetry-induced residual flow, gravitational circulation, and ebb tide salinity stratification contributed to the flood dominance. In addition to this flow-induced asymmetry, the erodibility of the sediment appears to increase during the first 2 hours of flood tide. Tidal asymmetry in bed shear stress and erodibility help explain an estuarine turbidity maximum that is present during flood tide but absent during ebb tide. Because horizontal advection was insignificant during most of the observation periods, the change in bed mass can be estimated from changes in the total suspended sediment mass. The square wave shape of the bed mass time series indicates that suspended sediment rapidly deposited in an unconsolidated or concentrated benthic suspension layer at slack tides and instantly resuspended when the shear stress became sufficiently large during a subsequent tide. The variability of bed mass associated with the spring/neap cycle (about 60 mg/cm2) is similar to that associated with the semidiurnal tidal cycle.

Validation Test Report for the Coupled Ocean/Atmosphere MesoscalePrediction System (COAMPS) Version 5.0: Ocean/Wave Component Validation

DTIC Science & Technology

2012-12-31

RED) TC TRACKS ARE SHOWN. CIRCLES ON BOTH TRACKS REPRESENT HOURLY LOCATIONS OF THE STORM CENTERS. ..................................... 18  FIGURE...conditions such as wave boundary conditions, tides, wind, and storm surge. A quasi-stationary approach is used with stationary SWAN computations in a...Tropical Storm Ivan and continued westward south of 10oN becoming a hurricane on 5 September. After entering the southern Gulf of Mexico (GOM

Modelling explicit tides in the Indonesian seas: An important process for surface sea water properties.

PubMed

Nugroho, Dwiyoga; Koch-Larrouy, Ariane; Gaspar, Philippe; Lyard, Florent; Reffray, Guillaume; Tranchant, Benoit

2018-06-01

Very intense internal tides take place in Indonesian seas. They dissipate and affect the vertical distribution of temperature and currents, which in turn influence the survival rates and transports of most planktonic organisms at the base of the whole marine ecosystem. This study uses the INDESO physical model to characterize the internal tides spatio-temporal patterns in the Indonesian Seas. The model reproduced internal tide dissipation in agreement with previous fine structure and microstructure observed in-situ in the sites of generation. The model also produced similar water mass transformation as the previous parameterization of Koch-Larrouy et al. (2007), and show good agreement with observations. The resulting cooling at the surface is 0.3°C, with maxima of 0.8°C at the location of internal tides energy, with stronger cooling in austral winter. The cycle of spring tides and neap tides modulates this impact by 0.1°C to 0.3°C. These results suggest that mixing due to internal tides might also upwell nutrients at the surface at a frequency similar to the tidal frequencies. Implications for biogeochemical modelling are important. Copyright © 2017 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Reported respiratory symptom intensity in asthmatics during exposure to aerosolized Florida red tide toxins.

PubMed

Milian, Alexyz; Nierenberg, Kate; Fleming, Lora E; Bean, Judy A; Wanner, Adam; Reich, Andrew; Backer, Lorraine C; Jayroe, David; Kirkpatrick, Barbara

2007-09-01

Florida red tides are naturally occurring blooms of the marine dinoflagellate, Karenia brevis. K. brevis produces natural toxins called brevetoxins. Brevetoxins become part of the marine aerosol as the fragile, unarmored cells are broken up by wave action. Inhalation of the aerosolized toxin results in upper and lower airway irritation. Symptoms of brevetoxin inhalation include: eye, nose, and throat irritation, coughing, wheezing, chest tightness, and shortness of breath. Asthmatics appear to be more sensitive to the effects of inhaled brevetoxin. This study examined data from 97 asthmatics exposed at the beach for 1 hour during K. brevis blooms, and on separate occasions when no bloom was present. In conjunction with extensive environmental monitoring, participants were evaluated utilizing questionnaires and pulmonary function testing before and after a 1-hour beach walk. A modified Likert scale was incorporated into the questionnaire to create respiratory symptom intensity scores for each individual pre- and post-beach walk. Exposure to Florida red tide significantly increased the reported intensity of respiratory symptoms; no significant changes were seen during an unexposed period. This is the first study to examine the intensity of reported respiratory symptoms in asthmatics after a 1-hour exposure to Florida red tide.

Reported Respiratory Symptom Intensity in Asthmatics During Exposure to Aerosolized Florida Red Tide Toxins

PubMed Central

Milian, Alexyz; Nierenberg, Kate; Fleming, Lora E.; Bean, Judy A.; Wanner, Adam; Reich, Andrew; Backer, Lorraine C.; Jayroe, David; Kirkpatrick, Barbara

2010-01-01

Florida red tides are naturally occurring blooms of the marine dinoflagellate, Karenia brevis. K. brevis produces natural toxins called brevetoxins. Brevetoxins become part of the marine aerosol as the fragile, unarmored cells are broken up by wave action. Inhalation of the aerosolized toxin results in upper and lower airway irritation. Symptoms of brevetoxin inhalation include: eye, nose, and throat irritation, coughing, wheezing, chest tightness, and shortness of breath. Asthmatics appear to be more sensitive to the effects of inhaled brevetoxin. This study examined data from 97 asthmatics exposed at the beach for 1 hour during K. brevis blooms, and on separate occasions when no bloom was present. In conjunction with extensive environmental monitoring, participants were evaluated utilizing questionnaires and pulmonary function testing before and after a 1-hour beach walk. A modified Likert scale was incorporated into the questionnaire to create respiratory symptom intensity scores for each individual pre- and post-beach walk. Exposure to Florida red tide significantly increased the reported intensity of respiratory symptoms; no significant changes were seen during an unexposed period. This is the first study to examine the intensity of reported respiratory symptoms in asthmatics after a 1-hour exposure to Florida red tide. PMID:17885863

Temperature variability caused by internal tides in the coral reef ecosystem of Hanauma bay, Hawai'i

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Smith, Katharine A.; Rocheleau, Greg; Merrifield, Mark A.; Jaramillo, Sergio; Pawlak, Geno

2016-03-01

Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve is a shallow bay (<30 m depth) on the island of O'ahu, Hawai'i, offshore of which tidal flow over deep ridge topography (500-1000 m depth) is known to generate semidiurnal frequency internal tides. A field experiment was conducted during March to June 2009 to determine whether the deep internal tides propagate shoreward to influence variability in temperature and currents in the bay environment. Temperature observations in the bay exhibit a diurnal cycle that is strongest near the surface (upper 10 m) and is associated with solar heating. In early summer (May-June), as the upper mixed layer warms and a shallow seasonal thermocline develops, temperature fluctuations in deeper bay waters (>15 m depth) become dominated by large semidiurnal variations (up to 2.7 °C) that are attributed to the internal tide. These temperature drops caused by the internal tide occur consistently twice a day under summer stratification at depths as shallow as 15 m, while smaller temperature drops (up to 1.8 °C) occur occasionally at 5 m. Although semidiurnal band temperatures vary seasonally, semidiurnal band currents exhibit similar magnitudes in spring and summer. This suggests that the weak temperature fluctuations in spring are due to the bay residing entirely in the upper mixed layer at this time of year, while internal tide energy continues to influence currents. Observations made along a cross-shore/vertical transect at the center of the bay with an autonomous underwater vehicle highlight the structure of cold intrusions that fill a large portion of the bay as well as the relationship between temperature, salinity, chlorophyll, and backscatter. Near-bottom, advective heat flux estimates at the mouth of the bay indicate that the internal tide tends to advect cold water into the bay primarily on the northeast side of the bay entrance, with cold water outflow on the opposite side. The observations highlight the role of the internal tide along with seasonal changes in stratification in temperature variability in shallow ecosystems, particularly those close to generation sites.

Coastal circulation and water column properties off Kalaupapa National Historical Park, Molokai, Hawaii, 2008-2010

USGS Publications Warehouse

Storlazzi, Curt D.; Presto, Katherine; Brown, Eric K.

2011-01-01

More than 2.2 million measurements of oceanographic forcing and the resulting water-column properties were made off U.S. National Park Service's Kalaupapa National Historical Park on the north shore of Molokai, Hawaii, between 2008 and 2010 to understand the role of oceanographic processes on the health and sustainability of the area's marine resources. The tides off the Kalaupapa Peninsula are mixed semidiurnal. The wave climate is dominated by two end-members: large northwest Pacific winter swell that directly impacts the study site, and smaller, shorter-period northeast trade-wind waves that have to refract around the peninsula, resulting in a more northerly direction before propagating over the study site. The currents primarily are alongshore and are faster at the surface than close to the seabed; large wave events, however, tend to drive flow in a more cross-shore orientation. The tidal currents flood to the north and ebb to the south. The waters off the peninsula appear to be a mix of cooler, more saline, deeper oceanic waters and shallow, warmer, lower-salinity nearshore waters, with intermittent injections of freshwater, generally during the winters. Overall, the turbidity levels were low, except during large wave events. The low overall turbidity levels and rapid return to pre-event background levels following the cessation of forcing suggest that there is little fine-grained material. Large wave events likely inhibit the settlement of fine-grained sediment at the site. A number of phenomena were observed that indicate the complexity of coastal circulation and water-column properties in the area and may help scientists and resource managers to better understand the implications of the processes on marine ecosystem health.

Nonlinear shallow ocean-wave soliton interactions on flat beaches.

PubMed

Ablowitz, Mark J; Baldwin, Douglas E

2012-09-01

Ocean waves are complex and often turbulent. While most ocean-wave interactions are essentially linear, sometimes two or more waves interact in a nonlinear way. For example, two or more waves can interact and yield waves that are much taller than the sum of the original wave heights. Most of these shallow-water nonlinear interactions look like an X or a Y or two connected Ys; at other times, several lines appear on each side of the interaction region. It was thought that such nonlinear interactions are rare events: they are not. Here we report that such nonlinear interactions occur every day, close to low tide, on two flat beaches that are about 2000 km apart. These interactions are closely related to the analytic, soliton solutions of a widely studied multidimensional nonlinear wave equation. On a much larger scale, tsunami waves can merge in similar ways.

A system for telemetering sea wave parameters

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Qian, Zhengxu; Jin, Junmo; Suckling, E. E.

1982-04-01

A wave staff to be anchored at sea and containing sensing and telemetering equipment is described. This gives a record at the land station of water level changes due to tides and of waves as they pass the staff. The staff is a 13 metre long PCV tube, the upper half comprising a capacitance with inner plate a foil layer, dielectric the tube wall, and outer electrode the sea. Wave direction is obtained by a separate device comprising a raft moored near to the staff. The raft streams behind its mooring and substantially points into the advancing waves and changes its slope as these pass under it. This slope and its direction referred to magnetic north, are telemetered to the land station to give the direction from which the waves arrive.

Selection of intracellular calcium patterns in a model with clustered Ca2+ release channels

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Shuai, J. W.; Jung, P.

2003-03-01

A two-dimensional model is proposed for intracellular Ca2+ waves, which incorporates both the discrete nature of Ca2+ release sites in the endoplasmic reticulum membrane and the stochastic dynamics of the clustered inositol 1,4,5-triphosphate (IP3) receptors. Depending on the Ca2+ diffusion coefficient and concentration of IP3, various spontaneous Ca2+ patterns, such as calcium puffs, local waves, abortive waves, global oscillation, and tide waves, can be observed. We further investigate the speed of the global waves as a function of the IP3 concentration and the Ca2+ diffusion coefficient and under what conditions the spatially averaged Ca2+ response can be described by a simple set of ordinary differential equations.

Spectral Interpretation of Wave-vortex Duality in Northern South China Sea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Cao, H.; Jing, Z.; Yan, T.

2017-12-01

The mesoscale to submesocale oceanic dynamics are characterized by a joint effect of vortex and wave component, which primarily declares the partition between geostrophic balanced and unbalanced flows. The spectral method is a favorable approach that can afford the muti-scale analysis. This study investigates the characteristics of horizontal wavenumber spectra in Nothern South China Sea using orbital altimeter data (SARA/AltiKa), 13-yr shipboard ADCP (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler) measurements (2014-2016), and a high-resolution numerical simulation (llc4320 Mitgcm). The observed SSH (sea surface height) spectrum presents a conspicuous transition at scales of 50-100 km, which clearly shows the inconsistency with geostrophic balance. The Helmholtz decomposition separating the wave and vortex energy for the spectra of ADCP and numerical model data shows that ageostrophic flows should be responsible for the spectral discrepancy with the QG (qusi-geostrophic) turbulence theory. Generally, it is found that inertia-gravity waves (including internal tides) govern the significant kinetic energy in the submesoscale range in Northern South China Sea. More specific analysis suggests that the wave kinetic energy can extend to a large scale of 500 km or more from the zonal velocity spectra at the left-center of Luzon Strait, which appears to be dominated by inertia-gravity waves likely emitted by the intrusion of the west pacific at Luzon Strait. Instead, the development of eddy kinetic energy at this place is strictly constrained by the width of the strait.

Fortnightly Ocean Tides, Earth Rotation, and Mantle Anelasticity

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Ray, Richard; Egbert, Gary

2012-01-01

The fortnightly Mf ocean tide is the largest of the long-period tides (periods between 1 week and 18.6 years), but Mf is still very small, generally 2 cm or less. All long-period tides are thought to be near equilibrium with the astronomical tidal potential, with an almost pure zonal structure. However, several lines of evidence point to Mf having a significant dynamic response to forcing. We use a combination of numerical modeling, satellite altimetry, and observations of polar motion to determine the Mf ocean tide and to place constraints on certain global properties, such as angular momentum. Polar motion provides the only constraints on Mf tidal currents. With a model of the Mf ocean tide in hand, we use it to remove the effects of the ocean from estimates of fortnightly variations in length-of-day. The latter is dominated by the earth's body tide, but a small residual allows us to place new constraints on the anelasticity of the earth's mantle. The result gives the first experimental confirmation of theoretical predictions made by Wahr and Bergen in 1986.

Coastal processes of the Elwha River delta: Chapter 5 in Coastal habitats of the Elwha River, Washington--biological and physical patterns and processes prior to dam removal

USGS Publications Warehouse

Warrick, Jonathan A.; Stevens, Andrew W.; Miller, Ian M.; Gelfenbaum, Guy; Duda, Jeffrey J.; Warrick, Jonathan A.; Magirl, Christopher S.

2011-01-01

To understand the effects of increased sediment supply from dam removal on marine habitats around the Elwha River delta, a basic understanding of the region’s coastal processes is necessary. This chapter provides a summary of the physical setting of the coast near the Elwha River delta, for the purpose of synthesizing the processes that move and disperse sediment discharged by the river. One fundamental property of this coastal setting is the difference between currents in the surfzone with those in the coastal waters offshore of the surfzone. Surfzone currents are largely dictated by the direction and size of waves, and the waves that attack the Elwha River delta predominantly come from Pacific Ocean swell from the west. This establishes surfzone currents and littoral sediment transport that are eastward along much of the delta. Offshore of the surfzone the currents are largely influenced by tidal circulation and the physical constraint to flow provided by the delta’s headland. During both ebbing and flooding tides, the flow separates from the coast at the tip of the delta’s headland, and this produces eddies on the downstream side of the headland. Immediately offshore of the Elwha River mouth, this creates a situation in which the coastal currents are directed toward the east much more frequently than toward the west. This suggests that Elwha River sediment will be more likely to move toward the east in the coastal system.

Connections Among the Spatial and Temporal Structures in Tidal Currents, Internal Bores, and Surficial Sediment Distributions Over the Shelf off Palos Verdes, California

USGS Publications Warehouse

Noble, Marlene A.; Rosenberger, Kurt J.; Xu, Jingping; Signell, Richard P.; Steele, Alex

2009-01-01

The topography of the Continental Shelf in the central portion of the Southern California Bight has rapid variations over relatively small spatial scales. The width of the shelf off the Palos Verdes peninsula, just northwest of Los Angeles, California, is only 1 to 3 km. About 7 km southeast of the peninsula, the shelf within San Pedro Bay widens to about 20 km. In 2000, the Los Angeles County Sanitation District began deploying a dense array of moorings in this complex region of the central Southern California Bight to monitor local circulation patterns. Moorings were deployed at 13 sites on the Palos Verdes shelf and within the northwestern portion of San Pedro Bay. At each site, a mooring supported a string of thermistors and an adjacent bottom platform housed an Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler. These instruments collected vertical profiles of current and temperature data continuously for one to two years. The variable bathymetry in the region causes rapid changes in the amplitudes and spatial structures of barotropic tidal currents, internal tidal currents, and in the associated nonlinear baroclinic currents that occur at approximate tidal frequencies. The largest barotropic tidal constituent is M2, the principal semidiurnal tide. The amplitude of this tidal current changes over fairly short along-shelf length scales. Tidal-current amplitudes are largest in the transition region between the two shelves; they increase from about 5 cm/s over the northern San Pedro shelf to nearly 10 cm/s on the southern portion of the Palos Verdes Shelf. Tidal-current amplitudes are then reduced to less than 2 cm/s over the very narrow section of the northern Palos Verdes shelf that lies just 6 km upcoast of the southern sites. Models suggest that the amplitude of the barotropic M2 tidal currents, which propagate toward the northwest primarily as a Kelvin wave, is adjusting to the short topographic length scales in the region. Semidiurnal sea-level oscillations are, as expected, independent of these topographic variations; they have a uniform amplitude and phase structure over the entire region. Because the cross-shelf angle of the seabed over most of the Palos Verdes shelf is 1 to 3 degrees, which is critical for the local generation and/or enhancement of nonlinear characteristics in semidiurnal internal tides, some internal tidal-current events have strong asymmetric current oscillations that are enhanced near the seabed. Near-bottom currents in these events are directed primarily offshore with amplitudes that exceed 30 cm/s. The spatial patterns in these energetic near-bottom currents have fairly short-length scales. They are largest over the inner shelf and in the transition region between the Palos Verdes and San Pedro shelves. This spatial pattern is similar to that found in the barotropic tidal currents. Because these baroclinic currents have an approximate tidal frequency, an asymmetric vertical structure, and a somewhat stable phase, they can produce a non-zero depth-mean flow for periods of a few months. These baroclinic currents can interact with the barotropic tidal current and cause an apparent increase (or decrease) in the estimated barotropic tidal-current amplitude. The apparent amplitude of the barotropic tidal current may change by 30 to 80 percent or more in a current record that is less than three months long. The currents and surficial sediments in this region are in dynamic equilibrium in that the spatial patterns in bottom stresses generated by near-bed currents from surface tides, internal tides, and internal bores partly control the spatial patterns in the local sediments. Coarser sediments are found in the regions with enhanced bottom stresses (that is, over the inner shelf and in the region between the Palos Verdes and San Pedro shelves). Finer sediments are found over the northwestern portion of the Palos Verdes shelf, where near-bottom currents are relatively weak. The nonlinear asymmetries in the i

Modeling the Dynamics of the Middle Atmosphere and Lower Thermosphere Under the Influence of Gravity Waves

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Mayr, H. G.; Mengel, J. G.; Chan, K. L.; Porter, H. S.; Einaudi, Franco (Technical Monitor)

2000-01-01

Our Numerical Spectral Model (NSM), which extends from the ground up into the thermosphere, is non-linear, time-dependent and has been employed for 2D and 3D applications. The standard version of the NSM incorporates Hines' Doppler Spread Parameterization for small scale gravity waves (GW), but planetary waves generated in the troposphere have also been incorporated. The NSM has been applied to describe: (1) the anomalous seasonal variations of the zonal circulation and temperature in the upper mesosphere, (2) the equatorial oscillations (quasi-biennial and semi-annual oscillations (QBO and SAO)) extending from the stratosphere into the upper mesosphere, (3) the diurnal and semi-diurnal tides, and (4) the planetary waves that are excited in the mesosphere. With the emphasis to provide understanding, we present here results from numerical experiments with the NSM that shed light on the GW processes that are of central importance in the mesosphere and lower thermosphere. These are our conclusions: (1) The large semiannual variations in the diurnal tide (DT), with peak amplitudes observed around equinox, are produced primarily by GW interactions that involve, in part, planetary waves. The DT, like planetary waves, tends to be amplified by GW momentum deposition, which reduces also the vertical wavelength, but variations in eddy viscosity associated with GW interactions are also important. (2) The semidiurnal tide (SDT) and its phase in particular, is strongly influenced by the mean zonal circulation. The SDT, individually, is also amplified by GW. But the DT filters out GW such that the GW interaction effectively reduces the amplitude of the SDT, producing a strong nonlinear interaction between the DT and SDT. (3) Without external time dependent energy or momentum sources, planetary waves (PW) are generated in the model for zonal wavenumbers 1 to 4, which have amplitudes in the mesosphere above 50 km as large as 40 m/s and periods between 50 and 2 days. The waves are generated primarily during solstice conditions, which indicates that the baroclinic instability (associated with the GW induced reversal in the latitudinal temperature gradient) is playing an important role. Numerical experiment show that GW, directly, also greatly amplify the PW. A common feature of the PW generated in summer and winter is that their vertical wavelengths throughout the mesosphere are large, which indicates that the waves are not propagating freely but are generated throughout the region. Another common feature is that the PW propagate preferentially westward in summer and eastward in winter, being launched from the westward and eastward zonal winds that prevail respectively in summer and winter at altitudes below 80 km. (4) Planetary waves generated internally by baroclinic instability and GW interaction produce large amplitude modulations of the DT and SDT. In summary we conclude that GW play major roles in generating and amplifying the dynamical components in the MLT region and, acting principally through wave filtering, produce important non-linear interactions between the components.

Suicide Risk Response: Enhancing Patient Safety Through Development of Effective Institutional Policies

DTIC Science & Technology

2004-01-01

potentially lethal self harm ). The CWG recognized the importance of having well-defined policies for response to suicidal TIDES and WAVES patients, and...calculates responses and automatically triggers the suicidality protocol 3.1 3 Spontaneous mention of suicide, self - harm , or persistent thoughts

Simulation of the effect of an oil refining project on the water environment using the MIKE 21 model

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Jia, Peng; Wang, Qinggai; Lu, Xuchuan; Zhang, Beibei; Li, Chen; Li, Sa; Li, Shibei; Wang, Yaping

2018-02-01

A case study of the Caofeidian oil refining project is conducted. A two-dimensional convective dispersion mathematical model is established to simulate the increase in the concentration of pollutants resulting from the wastewater discharge from the Caofeidian oil refining project and to analyze the characteristics of the dispersion of pollutants after wastewater is discharged and the effect of the wastewater discharge on the surrounding sea areas. The results demonstrate the following: (1) The Caofeidian sea area has strong tidal currents, which are significantly affected by the terrain. There are significant differences in the tidal current velocity and the direction between the deep-water areas and the shoals. The direction of the tidal currents in the deep-water areas is essentially parallel to the contour lines of the sea areas. Onshore currents and rip currents submerging the shoals are the dominant currents in the shoals. (2) The pollutant concentration field in the offshore areas changes periodically with the movement of the tidal current. The dilution and dispersion of pollutants are affected by the ocean currents in different tidal periods. The turbulent dispersion of pollutants is the most intense when a neap tide ebbs, followed by when a neap tide rises, when a spring tide ebbs and when a spring tide rises. (3) There are relatively good hydrodynamic conditions near the project's wastewater discharge outlet. Wastewater is well diluted after being discharged. Areas with high concentrations of pollutants are concentrated near the wastewater discharge outlet and the offshore areas. These pollutants migrate southwestward with the flood tidal current and northeastward with the ebb tidal current and have no significant impact on the protection targets in the open sea areas and nearby sea areas.

Coastal circulation and water-column properties in the War in the Pacific National Historical Park, Guam: measurements and modeling of waves, currents, temperature, salinity, and turbidity, April-August 2012

USGS Publications Warehouse

Storlazzi, Curt D.; Cheriton, Olivia M.; Lescinski, Jamie M.R.; Logan, Joshua B.

2014-01-01

The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center (PCMSC) initiated an investigation in the National Park Service’s (NPS) War in the Pacific National Historical Park (WAPA) to provide baseline scientific information on coastal circulation and water-column properties along west-central Guam, focusing on WAPA’s Agat Unit, as it relates to the transport and settlement of coral larvae, fish, and other marine organisms. The oceanographic data and numerical circulation modeling results from this study demonstrate that circulation in Agat Bay was strongly driven by winds and waves at longer (>1 day) timescales and by the tides at shorter (<1 day) timescales; near-surface currents in deep water were primarily controlled by the winds, whereas currents on the shallow reef flats were dominated by wave-driven motions. Water-column properties exhibited strong seasonality coupled to the shift from the trade wind to the non-trade wind season. During the dry trade-wind season, waters were cooler and more saline. When the winds shifted to a more variable pattern, waters warmed and became less saline because of a combination of increased thermal insolation from lack of wind forcing and higher rainfall. Turbidity was relatively low in Agat Bay and was similar to levels measured elsewhere along west-central Guam. The numerical circulation modeling results provide insight into the potential paths of buoyant material released from a series of locations along west-central Guam under summer non-trade wind forcing conditions that characterize coral spawning events. This information may be useful in evaluating the potential zones of influence/impact resulting from transport by surface currents of material released from these select locations.

Dynamics of the middle atmosphere as observed by the ARISE project

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Blanc, Elisabeth

2015-04-01

The atmosphere is a complex system submitted to disturbances in a wide range of scales, including high frequency sources as volcanoes, thunderstorms, tornadoes and at larger scales, gravity waves from deep convection or wind over mountains, atmospheric tides and planetary waves. These waves affect the different atmospheric layers submitted to different temperature and wind systems which strongly control the general atmospheric circulation. The full description of gravity and planetary waves constitutes a challenge for the development of future models of atmosphere and climate. The objective of this paper is to present a review of recent advances obtained in this topic, especially in the framework of the ARISE (Atmospheric dynamics Research InfraStructure in Europe) project

Data and numerical analysis of astronomic tides, wind-waves, and hurricane storm surge along the northern Gulf of Mexico

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bilskie, M. V.; Hagen, S. C.; Medeiros, S. C.; Cox, A. T.; Salisbury, M.; Coggin, D.

2016-05-01

The northern Gulf of Mexico (NGOM) is a unique geophysical setting for complex tropical storm-induced hydrodynamic processes that occur across a variety of spatial and temporal scales. Each hurricane includes its own distinctive characteristics and can cause unique and devastating storm surge when it strikes within the intricate geometric setting of the NGOM. While a number of studies have explored hurricane storm surge in the NGOM, few have attempted to describe storm surge and coastal inundation using observed data in conjunction with a single large-domain high-resolution numerical model. To better understand the oceanic and nearshore response to these tropical cyclones, we provide a detailed assessment, based on field measurements and numerical simulation, of the evolution of wind waves, water levels, and currents for Hurricanes Ivan (2004), Dennis (2005), Katrina (2005), and Isaac (2012), with focus on Mississippi, Alabama, and the Florida Panhandle coasts. The developed NGOM3 computational model describes the hydraulic connectivity among the various inlet and bay systems, Gulf Intracoastal Waterway, coastal rivers and adjacent marsh, and built infrastructure along the coastal floodplain. The outcome is a better understanding of the storm surge generating mechanisms and interactions among hurricane characteristics and the NGOM's geophysical configuration. The numerical analysis and observed data explain the ˜2 m/s hurricane-induced geostrophic currents across the continental shelf, a 6 m/s outflow current during Ivan, the hurricane-induced coastal Kelvin wave along the shelf, and for the first time a wealth of measured data and a detailed numerical simulation was performed and was presented for Isaac.

On tide-induced Lagrangian residual current and residual transport: 1. Lagrangian residual current

USGS Publications Warehouse

Feng, Shizuo; Cheng, Ralph T.; Pangen, Xi

1986-01-01

Residual currents in tidal estuaries and coastal embayments have been recognized as fundamental factors which affect the long-term transport processes. It has been pointed out by previous studies that it is more relevant to use a Lagrangian mean velocity than an Eulerian mean velocity to determine the movements of water masses. Under weakly nonlinear approximation, the parameter k, which is the ratio of the net displacement of a labeled water mass in one tidal cycle to the tidal excursion, is assumed to be small. Solutions for tides, tidal current, and residual current have been considered for two-dimensional, barotropic estuaries and coastal seas. Particular attention has been paid to the distinction between the Lagrangian and Eulerian residual currents. When k is small, the first-order Lagrangian residual is shown to be the sum of the Eulerian residual current and the Stokes drift. The Lagrangian residual drift velocity or the second-order Lagrangian residual current has been shown to be dependent on the phase of tidal current. The Lagrangian drift velocity is induced by nonlinear interactions between tides, tidal currents, and the first-order residual currents, and it takes the form of an ellipse on a hodograph plane. Several examples are given to further demonstrate the unique properties of the Lagrangian residual current.

Modelling the fate of the Tijuana River discharge plume

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

van Ormondt, M.; Terrill, E.; Hibler, L. F.; van Dongeren, A. R.

2010-12-01

After rainfall events, the Tijuana River discharges excess runoff into the ocean in a highly turbid plume. The runoff waters contain large suspended solids concentrations, as well as high levels of toxic contaminants, bacteria, and hepatitis and enteroviruses. Public health hazards posed by the effluent often result in beach closures for several kilometers northward along the U.S. shoreline. A Delft3D model has been set up to predict the fate of the Tijuana River plume. The model takes into account the effects of tides, wind, waves, salinity, and temperature stratification. Heat exchange with the atmosphere is also included. The model consists of a relatively coarse outer domain and a high-resolution surf zone domain that are coupled with Domain Decomposition. The offshore boundary conditions are obtained from the larger NCOM SoCal model (operated by the US Navy) that spans the entire Southern California Bight. A number of discharge events are investigated, in which model results are validated against a wide range of field measurements in the San Diego Bight. These include HF Radar surface currents, REMUS tracks, drifter deployments, satellite imagery, as well as current and temperature profile measurements at a number of locations. The model is able to reproduce the observed current and temperature patterns reasonably well. Under calm conditions, the model results suggest that the hydrodynamics in the San Diego Bight are largely governed by internal waves. During rainfall events, which are typically accompanied by strong winds and high waves, wind and wave driven currents become dominant. An analysis will be made of what conditions determine the trapping and mixing of the plume inside the surfzone and/or the propagation of the plume through the breakers and onto the coastal shelf. The model is now also running in operational mode. Three day forecasts are made every 24 hours. This study was funded by the Office of Naval Research.

On the Temporal Variability of Low-Mode Internal Tides in the Deep Ocean

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Ray, Richard D.; Zaron, E. D.

2010-01-01

In situ measurements of internal tides are typically characterized by high temporal variability, with strong dependence on stratification, mesoscale eddies, and background currents commonly observed. Thus, it is surprising to find phase-locked internal tides detectable by satellite altimetry. An important question is how much tidal variability is missed by altimetry. We address this question in several ways. We subset the altimetry by season and find only very small changes -- an important exception being internal tides in the South China Sea where we observe strong seasonal dependence. A wavenumber-domain analysis confirms that throughout most of the global ocean there is little temporal variability in altimetric internal-tide signals, at least in the first baroclinic mode, which is the mode that dominates surface elevation. The analysis shows higher order modes to be significantly more variable. The results of this study have important practical implications for the anticipated SWOT wide-swath altimeter mission, for which removal of internal tide signals is critical for observing non-tidal submesoscale phenomena.

Observations and estimates of wave-driven water level extremes at the Marshall Islands

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Merrifield, M. A.; Becker, J. M.; Ford, M.; Yao, Y.

2014-10-01

Wave-driven extreme water levels are examined for coastlines protected by fringing reefs using field observations obtained in the Republic of the Marshall Islands. The 2% exceedence water level near the shoreline due to waves is estimated empirically for the study sites from breaking wave height at the outer reef and by combining separate contributions from setup, sea and swell, and infragravity waves, which are estimated based on breaking wave height and water level over the reef flat. Although each component exhibits a tidal dependence, they sum to yield a 2% exceedence level that does not. A hindcast based on the breaking wave height parameterization is used to assess factors leading to flooding at Roi-Namur caused by an energetic swell event during December 2008. Extreme water levels similar to December 2008 are projected to increase significantly with rising sea level as more wave and tide events combine to exceed inundation threshold levels.

North Adriatic Tides: Observations, Variational Data Assimilation Modeling, and Linear Tide Dynamics

DTIC Science & Technology

2009-12-01

of the North Adriatic ( Lee et al., 2005). In addition to the ADCP measurements of currents through- out the water column, bottom pressure (by ADCP or...of the year with low levels of stratification (Figure 2, Jeffries and Lee , 2007). Actual generation of internal tides in the North Adriatic would...Thompson, K.R., Teague, W. J., Jacobs, G.A., Suk, M.-S., Chang, K.-I., Lee , J.-C. and Choi, B.H. (2004): Data assimilation modeling of the barotropic

New River Inlet DRI: Observations and Modeling of Flow and Material Exchange & Field and Numerical Study of the Columbia River Mouth

DTIC Science & Technology

2013-09-30

analyze the MCR drifter, in situ mini-catamaran, pressure, and USGS tripod observations; • describe the tidal chocking behavior at New River Inlet (NRI...i.e. waves , wind and potentially stratification) APPROACH Our approach is to collect field observations to evaluate the sensitivity of Delft3D at...forecast model using the predicted tides, wind, wave and river discharge conditions to optimize spatial coverage and drifter retrieval operations. On

GNSS Wave Glider: First results from Loch Ness and demonstration of its suitability for determining the marine geoid

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Penna, N. T.; Morales Maqueda, M.; Williams, S. D.; Foden, P.; Martin, I.; Pugh, J.

2013-12-01

We report on a first deployment of a GNSS Wave Glider designed for precise, unmanned, autonomous, mobile self-propelled sea level and sea state measurement in the open ocean. The Wave Glider, equipped with a dual frequency GPS+GLONASS receiver, was deployed in Loch Ness, Scotland, autonomously travelling 32 km in a north-easterly direction along the length of the loch in 26 hours, propelled by energy generated from waves of typical amplitude only 100-150 mm and frequency on the order 0.5-1 Hz. The Wave Glider GNSS data were analysed using a post-processed kinematic GPS+GLONASS precise point positioning (PPP) approach, which were quality controlled using double difference GPS kinematic processing with respect to onshore reference stations at either end of the loch. The PPP heights of the loch's surface revealed a clear geoid gradient of about 30 mm/km (i.e. just under 1 m over the whole length of the loch), very similar to both the EGM2008 and OSGM02 geoid models, demonstrating the potential use of a GNSS Wave Glider for marine geoid determination. After applying a low pass filter, the GNSS heights showed local deviations from both EGM2008 and OSGM02, potentially caused by omission errors or a lack of gravity data over Loch Ness. In addition to dual frequency GNSS data, the Wave Glider also recorded inclinometer data, bathymetry, and surface currents, which, in combination with tide gauge and wind data, were used to further control and interpret the GNSS time series.

Tidal distortion caused by the resonance of sexta-diurnal tides in a micromesotidal embayment

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Song, Dehai; Yan, Yuhan; Wu, Wen; Diao, Xiliang; Ding, Yang; Bao, Xianwen

2016-10-01

Double high water and double-peak flood current were observed in Daya Bay (DYB), China, which is a shallow, mixed, mainly semidiurnal-tide dominated bay with a micro to mesotidal range. Harmonic analysis reveals that the quarter and especially the sexta-diurnal constituents are getting much stronger as tides propagating into the bay. The astronomical tides-induced tidal asymmetry is yet dominant at the bay entrance but overtaken by the sexta-diurnal tides at the end of the bay. Both the M4 and M6 tide meet the requirement proposed in previous studies but still unable to produce a double high water alone. Therefore, the conditions to produce a double high water between a fundamental tide and its higher harmonics need to be revisited. Analytical solutions were obtained in this paper, which fit the numerical solutions very well. Modeling result indicates M6 alone with M2 can produce the double high water in DYB but limited in some regions, while the combination of M2, M4, and M6 tides would enhance the capability. The amplification of sexta-diurnal tides in DYB is dominated by resonance and followed by shoaling effect. Bottom friction damped M6 a lot and largely confined its amplification. However, the quadratic friction and other nonlinear processes are just responsible for about 10% of the total M6 increase.

Impact of wave action on the structure of material on the beach in Calypsobyen (Spitsbergen)

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Mędrek, Karolina; Herman, Agnieszka; Moskalik, Mateusz; Rodzik, Jan; Zagórski, Piotr

2015-04-01

The research was conducted during the XXVI Polar Expedition of Maria Curie-Sklodowska University in Lublin on Spitsbergen. It involved recording water wave action in the Bellsund Strait, and taking daily photographs of the beach on its shore in Calypsobyen. The base of polar expeditions of UMCS, Calypsobyen, is located on the coast of Calypsostranda, developed by raised marine terraces. Weakly resistant Tertiary sandstones occur in the substrate, covered with glacigenic sediments and marine gravels. No skerries are encountered along this section of the accumulation coast. The shore is dominated by gravel deposits. The bottom slopes gently. The recording of wave action was performed from 8 July to 27 August 2014 by means of a pressure based MIDAS WTR Wave and Tide Recorder set at a depth of 10 m at a distance of about 1 km from the shore. The obtained data provided the basis for the calculation of the significant wave height, and the corresponding mean wave period . These parameters reflect wave energy and wave level, having a considerable impact on the dynamics of coastal processes and the type and grain size of sediments accumulated on the beach. Material consisting of medium gravel and seaweed appeared on the beach at high values of significant wave height and when the corresponding mean wave period showed average values. The contribution of fine, gravel-sandy material grew with an increase in mean period and a decrease in significant wave height. At maximum values of mean period and low values of significant wave height, the beach was dominated by well-sorted fine-grained gravel. The lowest mean periods resulted in the least degree of sorting of the sediment (from very coarse sand to medium gravel). The analysis of data from the wave and tide recorder set and their comparison with photographs of the beach suggest that wave action, and particularly wave energy manifested in significant wave height, has a considerable impact on the type and grain size of material occurring on the shore of the fjord. The mean period is mainly responsible for sorting out the sediment, and the size of gravels is associated with significant wave height. Project of National Science Centre no. DEC-2013/09/B/ST10/04141

Inserting Tides and Topographic Wave Drag into High-resolution Eddying Simulations

DTIC Science & Technology

2014-07-01

Acknowledgements We thank Richard Ray for providing results from a global harmonic analysis of along-track satellite altimetry data, used in Figure 1...Rodriguez, 2012: SWOT : The Surface Water and Ocean Topography Mission, Jet Propulsion Laboratory JPL-Publication 12-05, 228 pp Garner, S.T., 2005: A

Nonhydrostatic Numerical Investigations of Oscillating Flow over Sills: Generation of Internal Tides and Solitary Waves

DTIC Science & Technology

2007-01-25

Distribution Unlimited Principal Investigator: Shenn-Yu Chao, Horn Point Laboratory, University of Maryland Center for Environmental Science , PO Box 0775...ORGANIZATION NAME(S) AND ADDRESS(ES) 8. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION UNIVERSITY OF MARYLAND CENTER FOR ENVIRONMENTAL SCIENCE REPORT NUMBER OFFICE OF GRANTS