Preliminary vulnerability evaluation by local tsunami and flood by Puerto Vallarta

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Trejo-Gómez, E.; Nunez-Cornu, F. J.; Ortiz, M.; Escudero, C. R.; CA-UdG-276 Sisvoc

2013-05-01

Jalisco coast is susceptible to local tsunami due to the occurrence of large earthquakes. In 1932 occurred three by largest earthquakes. Evidence suggests that one of them caused by offshore subsidence of sediments deposited by Armeria River. For the tsunamis 1932 have not been studied the seismic source. On October 9, 1995, occurred a large earthquake (Mw= 8.0) producing a tsunami with run up height up ≤ 5 m. This event affected Tenacatita Bay and many small villages along the coast of Jalisco and Colima. Using seismic source parameters, we simulated 1995 tsunami and estimated the maximum wave height. We compared the our results with 20 field measures 20 taked during 1995 along the south cost of Jalisco State, from Chalacatepec to Barra de Navidad. Similar seismic source parameters used for tsunami 1995 simulation was used as reference for simulating a hypothetical seismic source front Puerto Vallarta. We assumed that the fracture occurs in the gap for the north cost of Jalisco. Ten sites were distributed to cover the Banderas Bay, as theoretical pressure sensors, were estimated the maximum wave height and time to arrived at cost. After we delimited zones hazard zones by floods on digital model terrain, a graphic scale 1:20,000. At the moment, we have already included information by hazard caused by hypothetical tsunami in Puerto Vallarta. The hazard zones by flood were the north of Puerto Vallarta, as Ameca, El Salado, El Pitillal and Camarones. The initial wave height could be ≤ 1 m, 15 minutes after earthquake, in Pitillal zone. We estimated for Puerto Vallarta the maximum flood area was in El Salado zone, ≤ 2 km, with the maximum wave height > 3 m to ≤ 4.8 m at 25 and 75 minutes. We estimated a previous vulnerability evaluation by local tsunami and flood; it was based on the spatial distribution of socio-economic data from INEGI. We estimated a low vulnerability in El Salado and height vulnerability for El Pitillal and Ameca.

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Roberts, Jesse D.; Chang, Grace; Jones, Craig

The numerical model, SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) , was used to simulate wave conditions in Kaneohe Bay, HI in order to determine the effects of wave energy converter ( WEC ) devices on the propagation of waves into shore. A nested SWAN model was validated then used to evaluate a range of initial wave conditions: significant wave heights (H s ) , peak periods (T p ) , and mean wave directions ( MWD) . Differences between wave height s in the presence and absence of WEC device s were assessed at locations in shore of the WEC array. Themore » maximum decrease in wave height due to the WEC s was predicted to be approximately 6% at 5 m and 10 m water depths. Th is occurred for model initiation parameters of H s = 3 m (for 5 m water depth) or 4 m (10 m water depth) , T p = 10 s, and MWD = 330deg . Subsequently, bottom orbital velocities were found to decrease by about 6%.« less

46 CFR 109.121 - Operating manual.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2014 CFR

2014-10-01

... maximum deadweight in pounds and kilograms, and the rotor size in feet and meters of the helicopter used... draft, air gap, wave height, wave period, wind, current, temperature, and other environmental factors...

46 CFR 109.121 - Operating manual.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2011 CFR

2011-10-01

... maximum deadweight in pounds and kilograms, and the rotor size in feet and meters of the helicopter used... draft, air gap, wave height, wave period, wind, current, temperature, and other environmental factors...

46 CFR 109.121 - Operating manual.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2013 CFR

2013-10-01

... maximum deadweight in pounds and kilograms, and the rotor size in feet and meters of the helicopter used... draft, air gap, wave height, wave period, wind, current, temperature, and other environmental factors...

46 CFR 109.121 - Operating manual.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2012 CFR

2012-10-01

... maximum deadweight in pounds and kilograms, and the rotor size in feet and meters of the helicopter used... draft, air gap, wave height, wave period, wind, current, temperature, and other environmental factors...

46 CFR 109.121 - Operating manual.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2010 CFR

2010-10-01

... maximum deadweight in pounds and kilograms, and the rotor size in feet and meters of the helicopter used... draft, air gap, wave height, wave period, wind, current, temperature, and other environmental factors...

Solitary wave runup and force on a vertical barrier

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Liu, Philip L.-F.; Al-Banaa, Khaled

2004-04-01

In this paper we investigate the interaction between a solitary wave and a thin vertical barrier. A set of laboratory experiments was performed with different values of incident wave height to water depth ratio, H/h, and the draught of the barrier to water depth ratio, D/h. While wave gauges were used to measure the reflected and transmitted waves, pressure transducers were installed on both sides of the barrier, enabling the calculation of wave force. The particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique is also employed to measure the velocity field in the vicinity of the barrier. A numerical model, based on the Reynolds-averaged Navier Stokes (RANS) equations and the k - epsilon turbulence closure model, was first checked with experimental data and then employed to obtain additional results for the range of parameters where the laboratory experiments were not performed. Using both experimental data and numerical results, formulae for the maximum runup height, and the maximum wave force are derived in terms of H/h and D/h.

Numerical Modeling of Infragravity Wave Runup on Steep and Mildly Sloping Natural Beaches

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Fiedler, J. W.; Smit, P.; Brodie, K. L.; McNinch, J.; Guza, R. T.; Gallien, T.

2016-12-01

We present ongoing work which aims to validate the non-hydrostatic model SWASH for wave runup and infragravity waves generated by a range of different incident wave spectra at the offshore boundary, including the effect of finite directional spread. Flume studies of wave runup are limited to normally incident (1D) sea and infragravity waves, but natural waves are directionally spread (2D), with substantially different dynamics from 1D. For example, refractive trapping (edge waves) is only possible with 2D waves, and the bound infragravity wave response to short wave groups is highly amplified for the special case of normal incidence. Selected case studies are modeled at Agate Beach, Oregon, a low slope (1:80) beach with maximum offshore wave heights greater than 7m, and Cardiff, California, a steep (1:8) beach with maximum wave heights of 2m. Peak periods ranged between 5-20 s at both sites. On both beaches, waves were measured on a transect from approximately 10m depth to the runup, using pressure sensors, current meters, and a scanning lidar. Bulk short wave quantities, wave runup, infragravity frequency spectra and energy fluxes are compared with SWASH. On the low slope beach with energetic incident waves, the observed horizontal runup excursions reach 140m ( 100s periods). Swash front velocities reached up to several m/s, causing short waves to stack up during runup drawdown. On reversal of the infragravity phase, the stacked short waves are swept onshore with the long wave front, effectively enhancing runup by phase coupling long and short waves. Statistical variability and nonlinearity in swash generation lead to time-varying runup heights. Here, we test these observations with 2D SWASH, as well as the sensitivity of modeled runup to the parameterization of bottom friction.

Predicting location-specific extreme coastal floods in the future climate by introducing a probabilistic method to calculate maximum elevation of the continuous water mass caused by a combination of water level variations and wind waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Leijala, Ulpu; Björkqvist, Jan-Victor; Johansson, Milla M.; Pellikka, Havu

2017-04-01

Future coastal management continuously strives for more location-exact and precise methods to investigate possible extreme sea level events and to face flooding hazards in the most appropriate way. Evaluating future flooding risks by understanding the behaviour of the joint effect of sea level variations and wind waves is one of the means to make more comprehensive flooding hazard analysis, and may at first seem like a straightforward task to solve. Nevertheless, challenges and limitations such as availability of time series of the sea level and wave height components, the quality of data, significant locational variability of coastal wave height, as well as assumptions to be made depending on the study location, make the task more complicated. In this study, we present a statistical method for combining location-specific probability distributions of water level variations (including local sea level observations and global mean sea level rise) and wave run-up (based on wave buoy measurements). The goal of our method is to obtain a more accurate way to account for the waves when making flooding hazard analysis on the coast compared to the approach of adding a separate fixed wave action height on top of sea level -based flood risk estimates. As a result of our new method, we gain maximum elevation heights with different return periods of the continuous water mass caused by a combination of both phenomena, "the green water". We also introduce a sensitivity analysis to evaluate the properties and functioning of our method. The sensitivity test is based on using theoretical wave distributions representing different alternatives of wave behaviour in relation to sea level variations. As these wave distributions are merged with the sea level distribution, we get information on how the different wave height conditions and shape of the wave height distribution influence the joint results. Our method presented here can be used as an advanced tool to minimize over- and underestimation of the combined effect of sea level variations and wind waves, and to help coastal infrastructure planning and support smooth and safe operation of coastal cities in a changing climate.

Coastal setback line for the Kyparissiakos Gulf (Ionian Sea, Greece) according to the Mediterranean ICZM protocol

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Poulos, Serafim; George, Ghionis; Karditsa, Aikaterini

2017-04-01

The present investigation concerns the application of the Article 8-2 of the Mediterranean ICZM protocol in the environmentally sensitive coastal dune field of the central part of the Kyparissiakos Gulf (Ionian Sea, Greece). The Kyparissiakos dune field, comprising a set of coastal ecosystems of exceptional value, needs effective ICZM and, amongst all, has to consider the issue of Sea-Level Rise (SLR). The dune field consists of "parabolic" type dunes that are stable and subjected locally to human interference. It consists of four shore-parallel dune lines: the outer (and most recently formed) 1st dune line has formed during the last 500 years, the 2nd during the last 1000 years, whilst the 3rd and 4th lines have formed not later than 1600 years BP (Poulos et al., 2012). Moreover, the four dune lines (from the youngest to the oldest) lie at distances of approximately 60 m, 100 m, 200 m and 600 m from the coastline, having maximum heights of 4 m, 6 m, 10 m, and 10-12 m, respectively. The dune field, in general, is in equilibrium with the current nearshore hydrodynamics as the width of the beach zone is greater than the maximum run-up length (not included storm surge). The maximum wave run-up height (R), relative to the mean sea level, has been calculated by applying Komar's (1998) equation: R = 0.36 ṡ g0.5 ṡ S ṡ Ho0.5 ṡ T (g: acceleration of gravity; Ho: maximum offshore wave height; T: corresponding maximum wave period; S: tangential beach slope). Thus, the wave run-up due to the highest incoming waves can reach elevations of the order of 1.6m in the case of the NW waves (Ho=6m, T=9 s) and 2m in the case of W and SW waves (Ho=6.4m, T=6.4s). These elevations correspond to 25m and 40 m of tangential distances on the beach surface, which are less than the current beach width (> 60 m). However, if the maximum wave heights coincide with the maximum storm surge (0.5 m) observed in the area, wave action can reach and erode the foot of the 1st dune line. Thus, for the current sea level, the maximum wave excursion would reach the line along the foot of the 1st dune line. The application of the Barcelona 2008 protocol requires a free zone of 100 m, landwards of the maximum wave elevation, in this case reaching the 2nd dune line. If the moderate scenario of sea level rise ca. 0.4 m (IPCC, 2013) is realised, extensive erosion is expected to take place, leading to the destruction of the 1st dune line and the formation of a new shoreline close to the foot of the 2nd dune line, which might be partially destroyed and reshaped by the transgressive landward transfer of dune material. On the basis of the above, for this particular sensitive coastal environment, even the 100 m set-back line might be inadequate, even for the moderate sea level rise scenario for the year 2100.

Development of Physics-Based Hurricane Wave Response Functions: Application to Selected Sites on the U.S. Gulf Coast

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

McLaughlin, P. W.; Kaihatu, J. M.; Irish, J. L.; Taylor, N. R.; Slinn, D.

2013-12-01

Recent hurricane activity in the Gulf of Mexico has led to a need for accurate, computationally efficient prediction of hurricane damage so that communities can better assess risk of local socio-economic disruption. This study focuses on developing robust, physics based non-dimensional equations that accurately predict maximum significant wave height at different locations near a given hurricane track. These equations (denoted as Wave Response Functions, or WRFs) were developed from presumed physical dependencies between wave heights and hurricane characteristics and fit with data from numerical models of waves and surge under hurricane conditions. After curve fitting, constraints which correct for fully developed sea state were used to limit the wind wave growth. When applied to the region near Gulfport, MS, back prediction of maximum significant wave height yielded root mean square errors between 0.22-0.42 (m) at open coast stations and 0.07-0.30 (m) at bay stations when compared to the numerical model data. The WRF method was also applied to Corpus Christi, TX and Panama City, FL with similar results. Back prediction errors will be included in uncertainty evaluations connected to risk calculations using joint probability methods. These methods require thousands of simulations to quantify extreme value statistics, thus requiring the use of reduced methods such as the WRF to represent the relevant physical processes.

Wave Transformation over a Fringing Coral Reef and the Importance of Low-Frequency Waves and Offshore Water Levels to Runup and Island Overtopping

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Cheriton, O. M.; Storlazzi, C. D.; Rosenberger, K. J.

2016-02-01

Low-lying, reef-fringed islands are susceptible to sea-level rise and often subjected to overwash and flooding during large wave events. To quantify wave dynamics and wave-driven water levels on fringing coral reefs, wave gauges and a current meter were deployed for 5 months across two shore-normal transects on Roi-Namur, an atoll island in the Republic of the Marshall Islands. These observations captured two large wave events that had maximum wave heights greater than 6 m and peak periods of 16 s over the fore reef. The larger event coincided with a peak spring tide, leading to energetic, highly-skewed infragravity (0.04-0.004 Hz) and very low frequency (0.004-0.001 Hz) waves at the shoreline, which reached heights of 1.0 and 0.7 m, respectively. Water surface elevations, combined with wave runup, exceeded 3.7 m at the innermost reef flat adjacent to the toe of the beach, resulting in flooding of inland areas. This overwash occurred during a 3-hr time window that coincided with high tide and maximum low-frequency reef flat wave heights. The relatively low-relief characteristics of this narrow reef flat may further drive shoreline amplification of low-frequency waves due to resonance modes. These results demonstrate how the coupling of high offshore water levels with low-frequency reef flat wave energetics can lead to large impacts along atoll and fringing reef-lined shorelines, such as island overwash. These observations lend support to the hypothesis that predicted higher sea levels will lead to more frequent occurrences of both extreme shoreline runup and island overwash, threatening the sustainability of these islands.

Observations of wave transformation over a fringing coral reef and the importance of low-frequency waves and offshore water levels to runup, overwash, and coastal flooding

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Cheriton, Olivia M.; Storlazzi, Curt D.; Rosenberger, Kurt J.

2016-05-01

Many low-lying tropical islands are susceptible to sea level rise and often subjected to overwash and flooding during large wave events. To quantify wave dynamics and wave-driven water levels on fringing coral reefs, a 5 month deployment of wave gauges and a current meter was conducted across two shore-normal transects on Roi-Namur Island in the Republic of the Marshall Islands. These observations captured two large wave events that had waves with maximum heights greater than 6 m with peak periods of 16 s over the fore reef. The larger event coincided with a peak spring tide, leading to energetic, highly skewed infragravity (0.04-0.004 Hz) and very low frequency (0.004-0.001 Hz) waves at the shoreline, which reached heights of 1.0 and 0.7 m, respectively. Water surface elevations, combined with wave runup, reached 3.7 m above the reef bed at the innermost reef flat adjacent to the toe of the beach, resulting in flooding of inland areas. This overwash occurred during a 3 h time window that coincided with high tide and maximum low-frequency reef flat wave heights. The relatively low-relief characteristics of this narrow reef flat may further drive shoreline amplification of low-frequency waves due to resonance modes. These results (1) demonstrate how the coupling of high offshore water levels with low-frequency reef flat wave energetics can lead to large impacts along fringing reef-lined shorelines, such as island overwash, and (2) lend support to the hypothesis that predicted higher sea levels will lead to more frequent occurrences of these extreme events, negatively impacting coastal resources and infrastructure.

Observations of wave transformation over a fringing coral reef and the importance of low-frequency waves and offshore water levels to runup, overwash, and coastal flooding

USGS Publications Warehouse

Cheriton, Olivia; Storlazzi, Curt; Rosenberger, Kurt

2016-01-01

Many low-lying tropical islands are susceptible to sea level rise and often subjected to overwash and flooding during large wave events. To quantify wave dynamics and wave-driven water levels on fringing coral reefs, a 5 month deployment of wave gauges and a current meter was conducted across two shore-normal transects on Roi-Namur Island in the Republic of the Marshall Islands. These observations captured two large wave events that had waves with maximum heights greater than 6 m with peak periods of 16 s over the fore reef. The larger event coincided with a peak spring tide, leading to energetic, highly skewed infragravity (0.04–0.004 Hz) and very low frequency (0.004–0.001 Hz) waves at the shoreline, which reached heights of 1.0 and 0.7 m, respectively. Water surface elevations, combined with wave runup, reached 3.7 m above the reef bed at the innermost reef flat adjacent to the toe of the beach, resulting in flooding of inland areas. This overwash occurred during a 3 h time window that coincided with high tide and maximum low-frequency reef flat wave heights. The relatively low-relief characteristics of this narrow reef flat may further drive shoreline amplification of low-frequency waves due to resonance modes. These results (1) demonstrate how the coupling of high offshore water levels with low-frequency reef flat wave energetics can lead to large impacts along fringing reef-lined shorelines, such as island overwash, and (2) lend support to the hypothesis that predicted higher sea levels will lead to more frequent occurrences of these extreme events, negatively impacting coastal resources and infrastructure.

Numerical study on transient harbor oscillations induced by successive solitary waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gao, Junliang; Ji, Chunyan; Liu, Yingyi; Ma, Xiaojian; Gaidai, Oleg

2018-02-01

Tsunamis are traveling waves which are characterized by long wavelengths and large amplitudes close to the shore. Due to the transformation of tsunamis, undular bores have been frequently observed in the coastal zone and can be viewed as a sequence of solitary waves with different wave heights and different separation distances among them. In this article, transient harbor oscillations induced by incident successive solitary waves are first investigated. The transient oscillations are simulated by a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model, FUNWAVE-TVD. The incident successive solitary waves include double solitary waves and triple solitary waves. This paper mainly focuses on the effects of different waveform parameters of the incident successive solitary waves on the relative wave energy distribution inside the harbor. These wave parameters include the incident wave height, the relative separation distance between adjacent crests, and the number of elementary solitary waves in the incident wave train. The relative separation distance between adjacent crests is defined as the ratio of the distance between adjacent crests in the incident wave train to the effective wavelength of the single solitary wave. Maximum oscillations inside the harbor excited by various incident waves are also discussed. For comparison, the transient oscillation excited by the single solitary wave is also considered. The harbor used in this paper is assumed to be long and narrow and has constant depth; the free surface movement inside the harbor is essentially one-dimensional. This study reveals that, for the given harbor and for the variation ranges of all the waveform parameters of the incident successive solitary waves studied in this paper, the larger incident wave heights and the smaller number of elementary solitary waves in the incident tsunami lead to a more uniform relative wave energy distribution inside the harbor. For the successive solitary waves, the larger relative separation distance between adjacent crests can cause more obvious fluctuations of the relative wave energy distribution over different resonant modes. When the wave height of the elementary solitary wave in the successive solitary waves equals to that of the single solitary wave and the relative separation distance between adjacent crests is equal to or greater than 0.6, the maximum oscillation inside the harbor induced by the successive solitary waves is almost identical to that excited by the single solitary wave.

Two-Dimensional Analysis of Cable Stayed Bridge under Wave Loading

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Seeram, Madhuri; Manohar, Y.

2018-06-01

In the present study finite element analysis is performed for a modified fan type cable-stayed bridge using ANSYS Mechanical. A cable stayed bridge with two towers and main deck is considered for the present study. Dynamic analysis is performed to evaluate natural frequencies. The obtained natural frequencies and mode shapes of cable stayed bridge are compared to the existing results. Further studies have been conducted for offshore area application by increasing the pylon/tower height depending upon the water depth. Natural frequencies and mode shapes are evaluated for the cable stayed bridge for offshore area application. The results indicate that the natural periods are higher than the existing results due to the effect of increase in mass of the structure and decrease in stiffness of the pylon/tower. The cable stayed bridge is analyzed under various environmental loads such as dead, live, vehicle, seismic and wave loading. Morison equation is considered to evaluate the wave force. The sum of inertia and drag force is taken as the wave force distribution along the fluid interacting height of the pylon. Airy's wave theory is used to assess water particle kinematics, for the wave periods ranging from 5 to 20 s and unit wave height. The maximum wave force among the different regular waves is considered in the wave load case. The support reactions, moments and deflections for offshore area application are highlighted. It is observed that the maximum support reactions and support moments are obtained due to wave and earthquake loading respectively. Hence, it is concluded that the wave and earthquake forces shall be given significance in the design of cable stayed bridge.

Two-Dimensional Analysis of Cable Stayed Bridge under Wave Loading

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Seeram, Madhuri; Manohar, Y.

2018-02-01

In the present study finite element analysis is performed for a modified fan type cable-stayed bridge using ANSYS Mechanical. A cable stayed bridge with two towers and main deck is considered for the present study. Dynamic analysis is performed to evaluate natural frequencies. The obtained natural frequencies and mode shapes of cable stayed bridge are compared to the existing results. Further studies have been conducted for offshore area application by increasing the pylon/tower height depending upon the water depth. Natural frequencies and mode shapes are evaluated for the cable stayed bridge for offshore area application. The results indicate that the natural periods are higher than the existing results due to the effect of increase in mass of the structure and decrease in stiffness of the pylon/tower. The cable stayed bridge is analyzed under various environmental loads such as dead, live, vehicle, seismic and wave loading. Morison equation is considered to evaluate the wave force. The sum of inertia and drag force is taken as the wave force distribution along the fluid interacting height of the pylon. Airy's wave theory is used to assess water particle kinematics, for the wave periods ranging from 5 to 20 s and unit wave height. The maximum wave force among the different regular waves is considered in the wave load case. The support reactions, moments and deflections for offshore area application are highlighted. It is observed that the maximum support reactions and support moments are obtained due to wave and earthquake loading respectively. Hence, it is concluded that the wave and earthquake forces shall be given significance in the design of cable stayed bridge.

Swell-generated Set-up and Infragravity Wave Propagation Over a Fringing Coral Reef: Implications for Wave-driven Inundation of Atoll Islands

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Cheriton, O. M.; Storlazzi, C. D.; Rosenberger, K. J.; Quataert, E.; van Dongeren, A.

2014-12-01

The Republic of the Marshall Islands is comprised of 1156 islands on 29 low-lying atolls with a mean elevation of 2 m that are susceptible to sea-level rise and often subjected to overwash during large wave events. A 6-month deployment of wave and tide gauges across two shore-normal sections of north-facing coral reef on the Roi-Namur Island on Kwajalein Atoll was conducted during 2013-2014 to quantify wave dynamics and wave-driven water levels on the fringing coral reef. Wave heights and periods on the reef flat were strongly correlated to the water levels. On the fore reef, the majority of wave energy was concentrated in the incident band (5-25 s); due to breaking at the reef crest, however, the wave energy over the reef flat was dominated by infragravity-band (25-250 s) motions. Two large wave events with heights of 6-8 m at 15 s over the fore reef were observed. During these events, infragravity-band wave heights exceeded the incident band wave heights and approximately 1.0 m of set-up was established over the innermost reef flat. This set-up enabled the propagation of large waves across the reef flat, reaching maximum heights of nearly 2 m on the innermost reef flat adjacent to the toe of the beach. XBEACH models of the instrument transects were able to replicate the incident waves, infragravity waves, and wave-driven set-up across the reef when the hydrodynamic roughness of the reef was correctly parameterized. These events led to more than 3 m of wave-driven run-up and inundation of the island that drove substantial morphological change to the beach face.

Seaworthiness Predictions for Two Preliminary CSGN Designs

DTIC Science & Technology

1976-09-01

desired significant wave height in feet. The modal wave period represents the period corresponding to the maximum energy or peak of the wave energy ...SPEED 1S *F8.2. ’.H KTS "lR.?7MSIGNIFICANT WAVE HElION ! I S .FS.2.3" FT// I TI. IHWAE PERI O. 31.2mS T FS. 1 9110.1) 808 PORMAT (F 15.?.4110, 609

Dual frequency scatterometer measurement of ocean wave height

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Johnson, J. W.; Jones, W. L.; Swift, C. T.; Grantham, W. L.; Weissman, D. E.

1975-01-01

A technique for remotely measuring wave height averaged over an area of the sea surface was developed and verified with a series of aircraft flight experiments. The measurement concept involves the cross correlation of the amplitude fluctuations of two monochromatic reflected signals with variable frequency separation. The signal reflected by the randomly distributed specular points on the surface is observed in the backscatter direction at nadir incidence angle. The measured correlation coefficient is equal to the square of the magnitude of the characteristic function of the specular point height from which RMS wave height can be determined. The flight scatterometer operates at 13.9 GHz and 13.9 - delta f GHz with a maximum delta f of 40 MHz. Measurements were conducted for low and moderate sea states at altitudes of 2, 5, and 10 thousand feet. The experimental results agree with the predicted decorrelation with frequency separation and with off-nadir incidence angle.

Scenario based tsunami wave height estimation towards hazard evaluation for the Hellenic coastline and examples of extreme inundation zones in South Aegean

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Melis, Nikolaos S.; Barberopoulou, Aggeliki; Frentzos, Elias; Krassanakis, Vassilios

2016-04-01

A scenario based methodology for tsunami hazard assessment is used, by incorporating earthquake sources with the potential to produce extreme tsunamis (measured through their capacity to cause maximum wave height and inundation extent). In the present study we follow a two phase approach. In the first phase, existing earthquake hazard zoning in the greater Aegean region is used to derive representative maximum expected earthquake magnitude events, with realistic seismotectonic source characteristics, and of greatest tsunamigenic potential within each zone. By stacking the scenario produced maximum wave heights a global maximum map is constructed for the entire Hellenic coastline, corresponding to all expected extreme offshore earthquake sources. Further evaluation of the produced coastline categories based on the maximum expected wave heights emphasizes the tsunami hazard in selected coastal zones with important functions (i.e. touristic crowded zones, industrial zones, airports, power plants etc). Owing to its proximity to the Hellenic Arc, many urban centres and being a popular tourist destination, Crete Island and the South Aegean region are given a top priority to define extreme inundation zoning. In the second phase, a set of four large coastal cities (Kalamata, Chania, Heraklion and Rethymno), important for tsunami hazard, due i.e. to the crowded beaches during the summer season or industrial facilities, are explored towards preparedness and resilience for tsunami hazard in Greece. To simulate tsunamis in the Aegean region (generation, propagation and runup) the MOST - ComMIT NOAA code was used. High resolution DEMs for bathymetry and topography were joined via an interface, specifically developed for the inundation maps in this study and with similar products in mind. For the examples explored in the present study, we used 5m resolution for the topography and 30m resolution for the bathymetry, respectively. Although this study can be considered as preliminary, it can also form the basis to further develop a scenario based inundation model database that can be used as an operational tool, for fast assessing tsunami prone zones during a real tsunami crisis.

Assessing Potential Tsunami Sources for Extreme Wave Deposits on Southwest Isla de Mona, Puerto Rico, Using Numerical Simulations and Hydrodynamic Boulder Transport Equations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Matos-Llavona, P. I.; Lopez, A. M.; Jaffe, B. E.; Richmond, B. M.

2017-12-01

Extreme waves on coastlines pose a threat to human life, habitats, and critical coastal infrastructure. Geological evidence of extreme waves can provide valuable information on the magnitude, frequency, wave characteristics and source of past events, thus improving coastal hazard assessment. Reef-rock boulders, as much as 5m in diameter, are found up to 500 m inland on the southwestern coast of Isla de Mona, Puerto Rico. These boulders were emplaced 4000 years ago based on age dates from encrusting corals (Taggart et al., 1993). This study aims to identify an event capable of forming these deposits. For this, a numerical model of the 1918 Mona Passage tsunami was constructed using the New Evolution of Ocean Wave (NEOWAVE) model with three nested grids of 3, 1 and 1/3 arc-second resolution, respectively. A second simulation of a submarine landslide (1km3 volume) located 300m from the southwestern Mona shoreline was run using 3D Tsunami Solution Using Navier-Stokes Algorithm with Multiple Interfaces (TSUNAMI3D). The resulting inundation and wave heights at the shoreline are compared to minimum wave heights required to initiate transport (sub-aerial and submerged) of measured boulders and idealized cubic boulders with varying volumes. The 1918 Mona Passage tsunami simulation shows no significant inundation on the SSW Mona coast and a maximum wave height of 1.3m, which is below the minimum wave height required to initiate transport of a 1m diameter boulder. This result suggests that a tsunami like the one generated in 1918 is not capable of transporting even the smaller boulders. However, the submarine landslide generated extensive inundation on the SW coast with maximum wave height of 10m at the shoreline, 20m run-up, and 900m inundation distance. This is greater than the minimum wave height needed to initiate transport in both submerged and subaerial pre-transport settings; therefore, a submarine landslide with characteristics of the modeled landslide can form the boulder deposits observed. Marine geological surveys providing dates of landslides found in deep waters south of Mona Island will be required to validate this hypothesis. Taggart, B.E. et al., 1993, Holocene reef-rock boulders on Isla de Mona, Puerto Rico, transported by a hurricane or seismic sea wave. GSA, Abstract with Programs v. 25(6), p. 61.

Effects of wave-current interaction on storm surge in the Taiwan Strait: Insights from Typhoon Morakot

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Yu, Xiaolong; Pan, Weiran; Zheng, Xiangjing; Zhou, Shenjie; Tao, Xiaoqin

2017-08-01

The effects of wave-current interaction on storm surge are investigated by a two-dimensional wave-current coupling model through simulations of Typhoon Morakot in the Taiwan Strait. The results show that wind wave and slope of sea floor govern wave setup modulations within the nearshore surf zone. Wave setup during Morakot can contribute up to 24% of the total storm surge with a maximum value of 0.28 m. The large wave setup commonly coincides with enhanced radiation stress gradient, which is itself associated with transfer of wave momentum flux. Water levels are to leading order in modulating significant wave height inside the estuary. High water levels due to tidal change and storm surge stabilize the wind wave and decay wave breaking. Outside of the estuary, waves are mainly affected by the current-induced modification of wind energy input to the wave generation. By comparing the observed significant wave height and water level with the results from uncoupled and coupled simulations, the latter shows a better agreement with the observations. It suggests that wave-current interaction plays an important role in determining the extreme storm surge and wave height in the study area and should not be neglected in a typhoon forecast.

Characteristics of wind waves in shallow tidal basins and how they affect bed shear stress, bottom erosion, and the morphodynamic evolution of coupled marsh and mudflat landforms

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Tommasini, Laura; Carniello, Luca; Goodwin, Guillaume; Mudd, Simon M.; Matticchio, Bruno; D'Alpaos, Andrea

2017-04-01

Wind-wave induced erosion is one of the main processes controlling the morphodynamic evolution of shallow tidal basins, because wind waves promote the erosion of subtidal platforms, tidal flats and salt marshes. Our study considered zero-, one-and two-dimensional wave models. First, we analyzed the relations between wave parameters, depth and bed shear stress with constant and variable wave period considering two zero-dimensional models based on the Young and Verhagen (1996), and Carniello et al. (2005, 2011) approaches. The first one is an empirical method that computes wave height and the variable wave period from wind velocity, fetch and water depth. The second one is based on the solution of wave action conservation equation, we use this second approach for computing the bottom shear stress and wave height, considering variable and constant (t=2s) wave period. Second, we compared the wave spectral model SWAN with a fully coupled Wind-Wave Tidal Model applied to a 1D rectangular domain. These models describe both the growth and propagation of wind waves. Finally, we applied the two-dimensional Wind Wave Tidal Model (WWTM) to six different configurations of the Venice lagoon considering the same boundary conditions and we evaluated the spatial variation of mean wave power density. The analysis with zero-dimensional models show that the effects of the different model assumptions on the wave period and on the wave height computation cannot be neglected. In particular, the relationships between bottom shear stress and water depth have different shapes. Two results emerge: first, the differences are higher for small depths, and then the maximum values reached with the Young and Verhagen (1996) approach are greater than the maximum values obtained with WWTM approach. The results obtained with two-dimensional models suggest that the wave height is different in particular for small fetch, this could be due to the different formulation of the wave period. Finally, the application of WWTM for the entire Lagoon basin underlines an increase of the mean power density in the last four centuries, in particular in the central-southern part of the lagoon between Chioggia and Malamocco inlets.

NASA/French Satellite Data Reveal New Details of Tsunami

NASA Image and Video Library

2005-01-12

Displayed in blue color is the height of sea surface (shown in blue) measured by the Jason satellite two hours after the initial magnitude 9 earthquake hit the region (shown in red) southwest of Sumatra on December 26, 2004. The data were taken by a radar altimeter onboard the satellite along a track traversing the Indian Ocean when the tsunami waves had just filled the entire Bay of Bengal (see the model simulation inset image). The data shown are the changes of sea surface height from previous observations made along the same track 20-30 days before the earthquake, reflecting the signals of the tsunami waves. The maximum height of the leading wave crest was about 50 cm (or 1.6 ft), followed by a trough of sea surface depression of 40 cm. The directions of wave propagation along the satellite track are shown by the blue arrows. http://photojournal.jpl.nasa.gov/catalog/PIA07219

Evolution of offshore wind waves tracked by surface drifters with a point-positioning GPS sensor

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Komatsu, K.

2009-12-01

Wind-generated waves have been recognized as one of the most important factors of the sea surface roughness which plays crucial roles in various air-sea interactions such as energy, momentum, heat and gas exchanges. At the same time, wind waves with extreme wave heights representatively called as freak or rogue waves have been a matter of great concern for many people involved in shipping, fishing, constracting, surfing and other marine activities, because such extreme waves frequently affect on the marine activities and sometimes cause serious disasters. Nevertheless, investigations of actual conditions for the evolution of wind waves in the offshore region are less and sparse in contrast to dense monitoring networks in the coastal regions because of difficulty of offshore observation with high accuracy. Recently accurate in situ observation of offshore wind waves is getting possible at low cost owing to a wave height and direction sensor developed by Harigae et al. (2004) by installing a point-positioning GPS receiver on a surface drifting buoy. The point-positioning GPS sensor can extract three dimensional movements of the buoy excited by ocean waves with minimizing effects of GPS point-positioning errors through the use of a high-pass filter. Two drifting buoys equipped with the GPS-based wave sensor charged by solar cells were drifted in the western North Pacific and one of them continued to observe wind waves during 16 months from Sep. 2007. The RMSE of the GPS-based wave sensor was less than 10cm in significant wave height and about 1s in significant wave period in comparison with other sensors, i.e. accelerometers installed on drifting buoys of Japan Meteorological Agency, ultrasonic sensors placed at the Hiratsuka observation station of the University of Tokyo and altimeter of the JASON-1. The GPS-based wave buoys enabled us to detect freak waves defined as waves whose height is more than twice the significant wave height. The observation conducted by the wave buoys in 2007-2008 indicated a little more frequent occurrence of freak waves comparing with Forristall’s (1978) empirical formula and Naess’s (1985) distribution for a narrow-band Gaussian sea. Fig.1. Time series of the ratio of the significant wave height to the maximum wave height in 20 minutes sampling period observed by a drifting buoy with a GPS sensor

Choice of optimum heights for registration of ionospheric response onto earthquakes

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Krasnov, Valerii; Gotur, Ivan; Kuleshov, Yurii; Cherny, Sergei

2017-10-01

To investigate the dependence of ionospheric disturbances on height we used model calculations, and the data of seismic and ionospheric observations during the Tohoku-Oki earthquake. High-altitude dependences of "portraits" of ionospheric disturbances are calculated for a case of influence of a seismic P-wave onto the ionosphere. We compared the "portraits" of ionospheric disturbances with the "portraits" of the seismic recording. The correlation coefficient of the recordings for the height of 100 km was about 0.81, for 130 km - 0.85, for 160 km - 0.77, for 180 km - 0.76, for 200 km - 0.7, for 230 km -0.54 and for 250 km - 0.41. At the same time the maximum of F2-layer was at the height about 250 km. Thus, the height of a maximum of F2-layer was not optimum for registration of ionospheric disturbances due to the earthquake. It was preferable to carry out measurements of the ionospheric disturbances at the heights below 200 km. The profile of amplitude of the ionospheric disturbance had no sharply expressed maximum at the height of a maximum of F2-layer. Therefore it is problematic to use the approach of the thin layer for interpretation of TEC disturbances.

Wake wash waves produced by High Speed Crafts:measurements vs prediction

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Benassai, Guido

2010-05-01

The subject of this study refers to the wake wash waves generated by High Speed Crafts observed at some distance away (typically one or multiple of ship lengths) from the line of travel of the vessel. The ratio of the vessel speed divided by the maximum wave celerity in shallow water (depth-based Froude number) or to the square root of the gravity by the vessel length (length-based Froude number) is often used to classify the wash. In fact the wash waves produced by vessels that travel at sub-critical Froude numbers are different in patterns (and hence applicable theory) from that produced by vessels which operate at the critical Froude number of 1 or at supercritical Froude numbers. High Speed Crafts generally operate at Fr>1, even if in some cases for safety of navigation they operate at Fr<1. In the study supercritical speed conditions were considered. The predicted wake wash was a result of a desk-top study and relied on the subject matter presented in numerous technical papers and publications, while the measured wake wash is a result of the first field measurements of wake wash produced by HSC operating in the Bay of Naples. The measurements were operated by a pressure gauge in three critical points where the distance from the coastline was less than 700m. These measurements were taken in shallow water (depth ranging from 4 to 5 meters) in calm weather conditions. The output of the tests were wave-elevation time histories upon which the maximum wave height Hm from the wave record was extracted. The wave height reported was therefore the highest wave, peak to through, which occurred in a wave train. The wave period is defined as double the related half period for the defined maximum wave height. For each wake wash measurement the vessel route was monitored aboard the crossing HSC and exact speed, distance and water obtained depth was determined. The obtained values of the wake wash were compared with predictions of wake wash obtained by similar vessels in analogous speed and depth conditions. Finally some comments and conclusions were given about the accordance between the measurements and the predictions of wake wash waves.

A connection between the maximum displacements of rogue waves and the dynamics of poles in the complex plane.

PubMed

Liu, T Y; Chiu, T L; Clarkson, P A; Chow, K W

2017-09-01

Rogue waves of evolution systems are displacements which are localized in both space and time. The locations of the points of maximum displacements of the wave profiles may correlate with the trajectories of the poles of the exact solutions from the perspective of complex variables through analytic continuation. More precisely, the location of the maximum height of the rogue wave in laboratory coordinates (real space and time) is conjectured to be equal to the real part of the pole of the exact solution, if the spatial coordinate is allowed to be complex. This feature can be verified readily for the Peregrine breather (lowest order rogue wave) of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation. This connection is further demonstrated numerically here for more complicated scenarios, namely the second order rogue wave of the Boussinesq equation (for bidirectional long waves in shallow water), an asymmetric second order rogue wave for the nonlinear Schrödinger equation (as evolution system for slowly varying wave packets), and a symmetric second order rogue wave of coupled Schrödinger systems. Furthermore, the maximum displacements in physical space occur at a time instant where the trajectories of the poles in the complex plane reverse directions. This property is conjectured to hold for many other systems, and will help to determine the maximum amplitudes of rogue waves.

A connection between the maximum displacements of rogue waves and the dynamics of poles in the complex plane

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Liu, T. Y.; Chiu, T. L.; Clarkson, P. A.; Chow, K. W.

2017-09-01

Rogue waves of evolution systems are displacements which are localized in both space and time. The locations of the points of maximum displacements of the wave profiles may correlate with the trajectories of the poles of the exact solutions from the perspective of complex variables through analytic continuation. More precisely, the location of the maximum height of the rogue wave in laboratory coordinates (real space and time) is conjectured to be equal to the real part of the pole of the exact solution, if the spatial coordinate is allowed to be complex. This feature can be verified readily for the Peregrine breather (lowest order rogue wave) of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation. This connection is further demonstrated numerically here for more complicated scenarios, namely the second order rogue wave of the Boussinesq equation (for bidirectional long waves in shallow water), an asymmetric second order rogue wave for the nonlinear Schrödinger equation (as evolution system for slowly varying wave packets), and a symmetric second order rogue wave of coupled Schrödinger systems. Furthermore, the maximum displacements in physical space occur at a time instant where the trajectories of the poles in the complex plane reverse directions. This property is conjectured to hold for many other systems, and will help to determine the maximum amplitudes of rogue waves.

Experimental and numerical investigations of temporally and spatially periodic modulated wave trains

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Houtani, H.; Waseda, T.; Tanizawa, K.

2018-03-01

A number of studies on steep nonlinear waves were conducted experimentally with the temporally periodic and spatially evolving (TPSE) wave trains and numerically with the spatially periodic and temporally evolving (SPTE) ones. The present study revealed that, in the vicinity of their maximum crest height, the wave profiles of TPSE and SPTE modulated wave trains resemble each other. From the investigation of the Akhmediev-breather solution of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLSE), it is revealed that the dispersion relation deviated from the quadratic dependence of frequency on wavenumber and became linearly dependent instead. Accordingly, the wave profiles of TPSE and SPTE breathers agree. The range of this agreement is within the order of one wave group of the maximum crest height and persists during the long-term evolution. The findings extend well beyond the NLSE regime and can be applied to modulated wave trains that are highly nonlinear and broad-banded. This was demonstrated from the numerical wave tank simulations with a fully nonlinear potential flow solver based on the boundary element method, in combination with the nonlinear wave generation method based on the prior simulation with the higher-order spectral model. The numerical wave tank results were confirmed experimentally in a physical wave tank. The findings of this study unravel the fundamental nature of the nonlinear wave evolution. The deviation of the dispersion relation of the modulated wave trains occurs because of the nonlinear phase variation due to quasi-resonant interaction, and consequently, the wave geometry of temporally and spatially periodic modulated wave trains coincides.

Ocean wave characteristic in the Sunda Strait using Wave Spectrum Model

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Rachmayani, R.; Ningsih, N. S.; Adiprabowo, S. R.; Nurfitri, S.

2018-03-01

The wave characteristics including significant wave height and direction, seas and swell in the Sunda Strait are analyzed seasonally to provide marine weather information. This is crucial for establishing secured marine activities between islands of Sumatera and Java. Ocean wave characteristics in the Sunda Strait are simulated for one year (July 1996–June 1977) by using SWAN numerical model. The ocean wave characteristics in the Sunda Strait are divided into three areas of interest; southern, centre and northern part of the Sunda Strait. Despite a weaker local wind, the maximum significant wave height is captured at the southern part with its height of 2.6 m in November compared to other seasonally months. This is associated with the dominated swell from the Indian Ocean contributes on wave energy toward the Sunda Strait. The 2D spectrum analysis exhibits the monthly wave characteristic at southern part that is dominated by seas along the year and swell propagating from the Indian Ocean to the Sunda Strait during December to February (northwest monsoon), May, and November. Seas and swell at northern part of the Sunda Strait are apprehended weaker compared to other parts of the Sunda Strait due to its location is farther from the Indian Ocean.

Modeling wave attenuation by salt marshes in Jamaica Bay, New York, using a new rapid wave model

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Marsooli, Reza; Orton, Philip M.; Mellor, George

2017-07-01

Using a new rapid-computation wave model, improved and validated in the present study, we quantify the value of salt marshes in Jamaica Bay—a highly urbanized estuary located in New York City—as natural buffers against storm waves. We augment the MDO phase-averaged wave model by incorporating a vegetation-drag-induced energy dissipation term into its wave energy balance equation. We adopt an empirical formula from literature to determine the vegetation drag coefficient as a function of environmental conditions. Model evaluation using data from laboratory-scale experiments show that the improved MDO model accurately captures wave height attenuation due to submerged and emergent vegetation. We apply the validated model to Jamaica Bay to quantify the influence of coastal-scale salt marshes on storm waves. It is found that the impact of marsh islands is largest for storms with lower flood levels, due to wave breaking on the marsh island substrate. However, the role of the actual marsh plants, Spartina alterniflora, grows larger for storms with higher flood levels, when wave breaking does not occur and the vegetative drag becomes the main source of energy dissipation. For the latter case, seasonality of marsh height is important; at its maximum height in early fall, S. alterniflora causes twice the reduction as when it is at a shorter height in early summer. The model results also indicate that the vegetation drag coefficient varies 1 order of magnitude in the study area, and suggest exercising extra caution in using a constant drag coefficient in coastal wetlands.

Development of Local Amplification Factors in the NEAM Region for Production of Regional Tsunami Hazard Maps

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Harbitz, C. B.; Glimsdal, S.; Løvholt, F.; Orefice, S.; Romano, F.; Brizuela, B.; Lorito, S.; Hoechner, A.; Babeyko, A. Y.

2016-12-01

The standard way of estimating tsunami inundation is by applying numerical depth-averaged shallow-water run-up models. However, for a regional Probabilistic Tsunami Hazard Assessment (PTHA), applying such inundation models may be too time-consuming. A faster, yet less accurate procedure, is to relate the near-shore surface elevations at offshore points to maximum shoreline water levels by using a set of amplification factors based on the characteristics of the incident wave and the bathymetric slope. The surface elevation at the shoreline then acts as a rough approximation for the maximum inundation height or run-up height along the shoreline. An amplification-factor procedure based on a limited set of idealized broken shoreline segments has previously been applied to estimate the maximum inundation heights globally. Here, we present a study where this technique is developed further, by taking into account the local bathymetric profiles. We extract a large number of local bathymetric transects over a significant part of the North East Atlantic, the Mediterranean and connected seas (NEAM) region. For each bathymetric transect, we compute the wave amplification from an offshore control point to points close to the shoreline using a linear shallow-water model for waves of different period and polarity with a sinusoidal pulse wave as input. The amplification factors are then tabulated. We present maximum water levels from the amplification factor method, and compare these with results from conventional inundation models. Finally, we demonstrate how the amplification factor method can be convolved with PTHA results to provide regional tsunami hazard maps. This work has been supported by the European Union's Seventh Framework Programme (FP7/2007-2013) under grant agreement 603839 (Project ASTARTE), and the TSUMAPS-NEAM Project (http://www.tsumapsneam.eu/), co-financed by the European Union Civil Protection Mechanism, Agreement Number: ECHO/SUB/2015/718568/PREV26.

Development of Local Amplification Factors in the NEAM Region for Production of Regional Tsunami Hazard Maps

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Glimsdal, Sylfest; Løvholt, Finn; Bonnevie Harbitz, Carl; Orefice, Simone; Romano, Fabrizio; Brizuela, Beatriz; Lorito, Stefano; Hoechner, Andreas; Babeyko, Andrey

2017-04-01

The standard way of estimating tsunami inundation is by applying numerical depth-averaged shallow-water run-up models. However, for a regional Probabilistic Tsunami Hazard Assessment (PTHA), applying such inundation models may be too time-consuming. A faster, yet less accurate procedure, is to relate the near-shore surface elevations at offshore points to maximum shoreline water levels by using a set of amplification factors based on the characteristics of the incident wave and the bathymetric slope. The surface elevation at the shoreline then acts as a rough approximation for the maximum inundation height or run-up height along the shoreline. An amplification-factor procedure based on a limited set of idealized broken shoreline segments has previously been applied to estimate the maximum inundation heights globally. Here, we present a study where this technique is developed further, by taking into account the local bathymetric profiles. We extract a large number of local bathymetric transects over a significant part of the North East Atlantic, the Mediterranean and connected seas (NEAM region). For each bathymetric transect, we compute the wave amplification from an offshore control point to points close to the shoreline using a linear shallow-water model for waves of different period and polarity with a sinusoidal pulse wave as input. The amplification factors are then tabulated. We present maximum water levels from the amplification factor method, and compare these with results from conventional inundation models. Finally, we demonstrate how the amplification factor method can be convolved with PTHA results to provide regional tsunami hazard maps. This work has been supported by the European Union's Seventh Framework Programme (FP7/2007-2013) under grant agreement 603839 (Project ASTARTE), and the TSUMAPS-NEAM Project (http://www.tsumapsneam.eu/), co-financed by the European Union Civil Protection Mechanism, Agreement Number: ECHO/SUB/2015/718568/PREV26.

Deterministic approach for multiple-source tsunami hazard assessment for Sines, Portugal

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wronna, M.; Omira, R.; Baptista, M. A.

2015-11-01

In this paper, we present a deterministic approach to tsunami hazard assessment for the city and harbour of Sines, Portugal, one of the test sites of project ASTARTE (Assessment, STrategy And Risk Reduction for Tsunamis in Europe). Sines has one of the most important deep-water ports, which has oil-bearing, petrochemical, liquid-bulk, coal, and container terminals. The port and its industrial infrastructures face the ocean southwest towards the main seismogenic sources. This work considers two different seismic zones: the Southwest Iberian Margin and the Gloria Fault. Within these two regions, we selected a total of six scenarios to assess the tsunami impact at the test site. The tsunami simulations are computed using NSWING, a Non-linear Shallow Water model wIth Nested Grids. In this study, the static effect of tides is analysed for three different tidal stages: MLLW (mean lower low water), MSL (mean sea level), and MHHW (mean higher high water). For each scenario, the tsunami hazard is described by maximum values of wave height, flow depth, drawback, maximum inundation area and run-up. Synthetic waveforms are computed at virtual tide gauges at specific locations outside and inside the harbour. The final results describe the impact at the Sines test site considering the single scenarios at mean sea level, the aggregate scenario, and the influence of the tide on the aggregate scenario. The results confirm the composite source of Horseshoe and Marques de Pombal faults as the worst-case scenario, with wave heights of over 10 m, which reach the coast approximately 22 min after the rupture. It dominates the aggregate scenario by about 60 % of the impact area at the test site, considering maximum wave height and maximum flow depth. The HSMPF scenario inundates a total area of 3.5 km2.

Feasibility of Wave Energy in Hong Kong

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lu, M.; Hodgson, P.

2014-12-01

Kinetic energy produced by the movement of ocean waves can be harnessed by wave energy converter equipment such as wave turbines to power onshore electricity generators, creating a valuable source of renewable energy. This experiment measures the potential of wave energy in Hoi Ha Wan Marine Park, Hong Kong using a data buoy programmed to send data through wireless internet every five minutes. Wave power (known as 'wave energy flux') is proportional to wave energy periodicity and to the square of wave height, and can be calculated using the equation: P = 0.5 kW/(m3)(s) x Hs2 x Tp P = wave energy flux (wave energy per unit of wave crest length in kW/m) Hs = significant wave height (m) Tp = wave period (seconds) Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers (ADCPs), or ultrasonic sensors, were installed on the seabed at three monitoring locations to measure Significant Wave Heights (Hs), Significant Wave Periods (Tp) and Significant Wave Direction (Wd). Over a twelve month monitoring period, Significant Wave Heights ranged from 0 ~ 8.63m. Yearly averages were 1.051m. Significant Wave Period ranged from 0 ~ 14.9s. Yearly averages were 6.846s. The maximum wave energy amount recorded was 487.824 kW/m. These results implied that electricity sufficient to power a small marine research center could be supplied by a generator running at 30% efficiency or greater. A wave piston driven generator prototype was designed that could meet output objectives without using complex hydraulics, expensive mechanical linkages, or heavy floating buoys that might have an adverse impact on marine life. The result was a design comprising a water piston connected by an air pipe to a rotary turbine powered generator. A specially designed air valve allowed oscillating bidirectional airflow generated in the piston to be converted into unidirectional flow through the turbine, minimizing kinetic energy loss. A 35cm wave with a one second period could generate 139.430W of electricity, with an efficiency of 37.6%.

Extreme Wave Statistics within the Mouth of the Columbia River

DTIC Science & Technology

2014-12-01

nearshore coastal environment. Because of his guidance, I was able to make the most of this challenging learning experience. I spent countless hours...the current field induces a refractive caustic along the principal current axis. Caustic focusing causes an increase of wave height to its maximum...the largest waves are found upstream of the caustic area (around x/Lo=25 in Figure 6). 10 Figure 6. Transformation of 0.1-Hz swell

Impact of wave action on the structure of material on the beach in Calypsobyen (Spitsbergen)

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Mędrek, Karolina; Herman, Agnieszka; Moskalik, Mateusz; Rodzik, Jan; Zagórski, Piotr

2015-04-01

The research was conducted during the XXVI Polar Expedition of Maria Curie-Sklodowska University in Lublin on Spitsbergen. It involved recording water wave action in the Bellsund Strait, and taking daily photographs of the beach on its shore in Calypsobyen. The base of polar expeditions of UMCS, Calypsobyen, is located on the coast of Calypsostranda, developed by raised marine terraces. Weakly resistant Tertiary sandstones occur in the substrate, covered with glacigenic sediments and marine gravels. No skerries are encountered along this section of the accumulation coast. The shore is dominated by gravel deposits. The bottom slopes gently. The recording of wave action was performed from 8 July to 27 August 2014 by means of a pressure based MIDAS WTR Wave and Tide Recorder set at a depth of 10 m at a distance of about 1 km from the shore. The obtained data provided the basis for the calculation of the significant wave height, and the corresponding mean wave period . These parameters reflect wave energy and wave level, having a considerable impact on the dynamics of coastal processes and the type and grain size of sediments accumulated on the beach. Material consisting of medium gravel and seaweed appeared on the beach at high values of significant wave height and when the corresponding mean wave period showed average values. The contribution of fine, gravel-sandy material grew with an increase in mean period and a decrease in significant wave height. At maximum values of mean period and low values of significant wave height, the beach was dominated by well-sorted fine-grained gravel. The lowest mean periods resulted in the least degree of sorting of the sediment (from very coarse sand to medium gravel). The analysis of data from the wave and tide recorder set and their comparison with photographs of the beach suggest that wave action, and particularly wave energy manifested in significant wave height, has a considerable impact on the type and grain size of material occurring on the shore of the fjord. The mean period is mainly responsible for sorting out the sediment, and the size of gravels is associated with significant wave height. Project of National Science Centre no. DEC-2013/09/B/ST10/04141

Psycho-Physiological Responses by Listening to Some Sounds from Our Daily Life

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Sakamoto, H.; Hayashi, F.; Tsujikawa, M.; Sugiura, S.

1997-08-01

This study was made to clarify the relationship between mode of identification, mode of emotion and physiological response to noise. Twenty-six subjects, young females, listened to six different daily sounds for 150 s through head phones. The level of sound was 60-61LAcq. The pulse wave and blood pressure were observed, and pulse wave interval, wave height and maximum and minimum blood pressures were measured. Measurements were taken twice once 30 s before listening and again during the final 30 s of listening. The ratio of the latter value to the former value was used as the index for the evaluation of change. Immediately after the listening session, identification of the sound source and emotional response were surveyed via a questionnaire and the sounds were judged as related to comfort or discomfort. In the case of incorrect identification, physiological functions were not seen to change significantly. However, in the case of correct identification, maximum and minimum blood pressures were significantly increased form the pre-listening values. The physiological functions of the discomfort group did not change significantly. In the comfort group, wave height was decreased and blood pressure was significantly elevated.

Density waves in Saturn's rings

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Cuzzi, J. N.; Lissauer, J. J.; Shu, F. H.

1981-01-01

Certain radial brightness variations in the outer Cassini division of Saturn's rings may be spiral density waves driven by Saturn's large moon Iapetus, in which case a value of approximately 16 g/sq cm for the surface density is calculated in the region where the waves are seen. The kinematic viscosity in the same region is approximately 170 sq cm/s and the vertical scale height of the ring is estimated to be a maximum of approximately 40 m.

33 CFR 156.320 - Maximum operating conditions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2010 CFR

2010-07-01

... of the following conditions exist: (1) The wind velocity is 56 km/hr (30 knots) or more; or (2) The... shall be drained when— (1) The wind velocity exceeds 82 km/hr (44 knots); or (2) Wave heights exceed 5...

33 CFR 156.320 - Maximum operating conditions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2011 CFR

2011-07-01

... of the following conditions exist: (1) The wind velocity is 56 km/hr (30 knots) or more; or (2) The... shall be drained when— (1) The wind velocity exceeds 82 km/hr (44 knots); or (2) Wave heights exceed 5...

Current-wave spectra coupling project. Volume III. Cumulative distribution of forces on structures subjected to the combined action of currents and random waves for potential OTEC sites: (A) Keahole Point, Hawaii, 100 year hurricane; (B) Punta Tuna, Puerto Rico, 100 year hurricane; (C) New Orleans, Louisiana, 100 year hurricane; (D) West Coast of Florida, 100 year hurricane. [CUFOR code

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Venezian, G.; Bretschneider, C.L.

1980-08-01

This volume details a new methodology to analyze statistically the forces experienced by a structure at sea. Conventionally a wave climate is defined using a spectral function. The wave climate is described using a joint distribution of wave heights and periods (wave lengths), characterizing actual sea conditions through some measured or estimated parameters like the significant wave height, maximum spectral density, etc. Random wave heights and periods satisfying the joint distribution are then generated. Wave kinetics are obtained using linear or non-linear theory. In the case of currents a linear wave-current interaction theory of Venezian (1979) is used. The peakmore » force experienced by the structure for each individual wave is identified. Finally, the probability of exceedance of any given peak force on the structure may be obtained. A three-parameter Longuet-Higgins type joint distribution of wave heights and periods is discussed in detail. This joint distribution was used to model sea conditions at four potential OTEC locations. A uniform cylindrical pipe of 3 m diameter, extending to a depth of 550 m was used as a sample structure. Wave-current interactions were included and forces computed using Morison's equation. The drag and virtual mass coefficients were interpolated from published data. A Fortran program CUFOR was written to execute the above procedure. Tabulated and graphic results of peak forces experienced by the structure, for each location, are presented. A listing of CUFOR is included. Considerable flexibility of structural definition has been incorporated. The program can easily be modified in the case of an alternative joint distribution or for inclusion of effects like non-linearity of waves, transverse forces and diffraction.« less

Comparison of Coastal Inundation in the Outer Banks during Three Recent Hurricanes

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Liu, T.; Sheng, Y.

2012-12-01

Coastal inundation in the Outer Banks and Chesapeake Bay during several recent hurricanes - Isabel, Earl and Irene, in 2005, 2010 and 2011, respectively, have been successfully simulated using the storm surge modeling system, CH3D-SSMS, which includes coupled coastal and basin-scale storm surge and wave models. Hurricane Isabel, which made landfall at the Outer Banks area in 2005, generated high waves up to 20 m offshore and 2.5 m inside the Chesapeake Bay which significantly affected the peak surge, with wave induced set-up contributing up to about 20% of the peak surge. During Isabel, the observed wave height at Duck station (1 km offshore) reached over 6 meters at landfall time, while Earl and Irene generated relatively moderate waves, with peak wave height around 4 meters at that station but a much lower wave height before landfall. Simulations show that during Earl and Irene, wave induced set-up did not contribute as much as that during Isabel. At Duck Pier, wave effects accounted for ~36 cm or 20% of the peak surge of 1.71 m during Isabel, while waves contributed ~10 cm (10%) toward the peak surge of 1 m during Irene and even less during Earl. The maximum surge during Irene was largely caused by the strong wind, as confirmed by the model using H* wind. Inundation maps have been generated and compared based on the simulations of Isabel, Earl and Irene.

Experimental investigation on the hydrodynamic performance of a wave energy converter

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zheng, Xiong-bo; Ma, Yong; Zhang, Liang; Jiang, Jin; Liu, Heng-xu

2017-06-01

Wave energy is an important type of marine renewable energy. A wave energy converter (WEC) moored with two floating bodies was developed in the present study. To analyze the dynamic performance of the WEC, an experimental device was designed and tested in a tank. The experiment focused on the factors which impact the motion and energy conversion performance of the WEC. Dynamic performance was evaluated by the relative displacements and velocities of the oscillator and carrier which served as the floating bodies of WEC. Four factors were tested, i.e. wave height, wave period, power take-off (PTO) damping, and mass ratio ( R M) of the oscillator and carrier. Experimental results show that these factors greatly affect the energy conversion performance, especially when the wave period matches R M and PTO damping. According to the results, we conclude that: (a) the maximization of the relative displacements and velocities leads to the maximization of the energy conversion efficiency; (b) the larger the wave height, the higher the energy conversion efficiency will be; (c) the relationships of energy conversion efficiency with wave period, PTO damping, and R M are nonlinear, but the maximum efficiency is obtained when these three factors are optimally matched. Experimental results demonstrated that the energy conversion efficiency reached the peak at 28.62% when the wave height was 120 mm, wave period was 1.0 s, R M was 0.21, and the PTO damping was corresponding to the resistance of 100 Ω.

47 CFR 22.529 - Application requirements for the Paging and Radiotelephone Service.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2011 CFR

2011-10-01

... horizontal radiation pattern of the electric field of the antenna, the height (in meters) to the tip of the... in the maximum lobe and the electric field polarization of the wave emitted by the antenna when...

47 CFR 22.529 - Application requirements for the Paging and Radiotelephone Service.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2010 CFR

2010-10-01

... horizontal radiation pattern of the electric field of the antenna, the height (in meters) to the tip of the... in the maximum lobe and the electric field polarization of the wave emitted by the antenna when...

The Vajont disaster: a 3D numerical simulation for the slide and the waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Rubino, Angelo; Androsov, Alexey; Vacondio, Renato; Zanchettin, Davide; Voltzinger, Naum

2016-04-01

A very high resolution O(5 m), 3D hydrostatic nonlinear numerical model was used to simulate the dynamics of both the slide and the surface waves produced during the Vajont disaster (north Italy, 1963), one of the major landslide-induced tsunamis ever documented. Different simulated wave phenomena like, e.g., maximum run-up on the opposite shore, maximum height, and water velocity were analyzed and compared with data available in literature, including the results of a fully 3D simulation obtained with a Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamic code. The difference between measured and simulated after-slide bathymetries was calculated and used in an attempt to quantify the relative magnitude and extension of rigid and fluid motion components during the event.

77 FR 43049 - Takes of Marine Mammals Incidental to Specified Activities; Taking Marine Mammals Incidental to a...

Federal Register 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014

2012-07-23

... decrease in acoustic intensity as an acoustic pressure wave propagates out from a source, was estimated as... of 8.4 mi (13.5 km) to the north, and 4.2 mi (6.8 km) to the south, resulting in maximum wave heights...-out locations for harbor seals in Hood Canal are located on river delta and tidal exposed areas at...

Fully- and weakly-nonlinear biperiodic traveling waves in shallow water

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hirakawa, Tomoaki; Okamura, Makoto

2018-04-01

We directly calculate fully nonlinear traveling waves that are periodic in two independent horizontal directions (biperiodic) in shallow water. Based on the Riemann theta function, we also calculate exact periodic solutions to the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) equation, which can be obtained by assuming weakly-nonlinear, weakly-dispersive, weakly-two-dimensional waves. To clarify how the accuracy of the biperiodic KP solution is affected when some of the KP approximations are not satisfied, we compare the fully- and weakly-nonlinear periodic traveling waves of various wave amplitudes, wave depths, and interaction angles. As the interaction angle θ decreases, the wave frequency and the maximum wave height of the biperiodic KP solution both increase, and the central peak sharpens and grows beyond the height of the corresponding direct numerical solutions, indicating that the biperiodic KP solution cannot qualitatively model direct numerical solutions for θ ≲ 45^\\circ . To remedy the weak two-dimensionality approximation, we apply the correction of Yeh et al (2010 Eur. Phys. J. Spec. Top. 185 97-111) to the biperiodic KP solution, which substantially improves the solution accuracy and results in wave profiles that are indistinguishable from most other cases.

Tsunami Focusing and Leading Amplitude

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kanoglu, U.

2016-12-01

Tsunamis transform substantially through spatial and temporal spreading from their source region. This substantial spreading might result unique maximum tsunami wave heights which might be attributed to the source configuration, directivity, the waveguide structures of mid-ocean ridges and continental shelves, focusing and defocusing through submarine seamounts, random focusing due to small changes in bathymetry, dispersion, and, most likely, combination of some of these effects. In terms of the maximum tsunami wave height, after Okal and Synolakis (2016 Geophys. J. Int. 204, 719-735), it is clear that dispersion would be one of the reasons to drive the leading wave amplitude in a tsunami wave train. Okal and Synolakis (2016), referring to this phenomenon as sequencing -later waves in the train becoming higher than the leading one, considered Hammack's (1972, Ph.D. Dissertation, Calif. Inst. Tech., 261 pp) formalism, in addition to LeMéhauté and Wang's (1995 Water waves generated by underwater explosion, World Scientific, 367 pp), to evaluate linear dispersive tsunami propagation from a circular plug uplifted on an ocean of constant depth. They identified transition distance, as the second wave being larger, performing parametric study for the radius of the plug and the depth of the ocean. Here, we extend Okal and Synolakis' (2016) analysis to an initial wave field with a finite crest length and, in addition, to a most common tsunami initial wave form of N-wave (Tadepalli and Synolakis, 1994 Proc. R. Soc. A: Math. Phys. Eng. Sci. 445, 99-112). First, we investigate the focusing feature in the leading-depression side, which enhance tsunami wave height as presented by Kanoglu et al. (2013 Proc. R. Soc. A: Math. Phys. Eng. Sci. 469, 20130015). We then discuss the results in terms of leading wave amplitude presenting a parametric study and identify a simple relation for the transition distance. The solution presented here could be used to better analyze dispersive characteristics of shallow water-wave numerical models and for benchmarking, in addition to the benchmark problems in Synolakis et al. (2008 Pure Appl. Geophys. 165(11-12), 2197-2228). This study received funding from project ASTARTE-Assessment Strategy and Risk Reduction for Tsunamis in Europe, a collaborative project Grant 603839, FP7-ENV2013 6.4-3.

Establishing storm thresholds for the Spanish Gulf of Cádiz coast

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Del Río, Laura; Plomaritis, Theocharis A.; Benavente, Javier; Valladares, María; Ribera, Pedro

2012-03-01

In this study critical thresholds are defined for storm impacts along the Spanish coast of the Gulf of Cádiz. The thresholds correspond to the minimum wave and tide conditions necessary to produce significant morphological changes on beaches and dunes and/or damage on coastal infrastructure or human occupation. Threshold definition was performed by computing theoretical sea-level variations during storms and comparing them with the topography of the study area and the location of infrastructure at a local level. Specifically, the elevations of the berm, the dune foot and the entrance of existing washovers were selected as threshold parameters. The total sea-level variation generated by a storm event was estimated as the sum of the tidal level, the wind-induced setup, the barometric setup and the wave-associated sea-level variation (wave setup and runup), assuming a minimum interaction between the different processes. These components were calculated on the basis of parameterisations for significant wave height (Hs) obtained for the oceanographic and environmental conditions of the Gulf of Cadiz. For this purpose real data and reanalysis time-series (HIPOCAS project) were used. Validation of the obtained results was performed for a range of coastal settings over the study area. The obtained thresholds for beach morphological changes in spring tide conditions range between a significant wave height of 1.5 m and 3.7 m depending on beach characteristics, while for dune foot erosion are around 3.3 to 3.7 m and for damage to infrastructure around 7.2 m. In case of neap tide conditions these values are increased on average by 50% over the areas with large tidal range. Furthermore, records of real damage in coastal infrastructure caused by storms were collected at a regional level from newspapers and other bibliographic sources and compared with the hydrodynamic conditions that caused the damage. These were extracted from the hindcast database of the HIPOCAS project, including parameters such as storm duration, mean and maximum wave height and wave direction. Results show that the duration of the storm is not critical in determining the occurrence of coastal damage in the regional study area. This way, the threshold would be defined as a duration ≥30 h, with moderate average wave height (≥3.3 m) and high maximum wave height (≥4.1 m) approaching from the 3rd and 4th quadrants, during mean or spring tide situation. The calculated thresholds constitute snapshots of risk conditions within a certain time framework. Beach and nearshore zones are extremely dynamic, and also the characteristics of occupation on the coast change over time, so critical storm thresholds will change accordingly and therefore will need to be updated.

Wide band cryogenic ultra-high vacuum microwave absorber

DOEpatents

Campisi, Isidoro E.

1992-01-01

An absorber wave guide assembly for absorbing higher order modes of microwave energy under cryogenic ultra-high vacuum conditions, that absorbs wide-band multi-mode energy. The absorber is of a special triangular shape, made from flat tiles of silicon carbide and aluminum nitride. The leading sharp end of the absorber is located in a corner of the wave guide and tapers to a larger cross-sectional area whose center is located approximately in the center of the wave guide. The absorber is relatively short, being of less height than the maximum width of the wave guide.

The El Salvador and Philippines Tsunamis of August 2012: Insights from Sea Level Data Analysis and Numerical Modeling

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Heidarzadeh, Mohammad; Satake, Kenji

2014-12-01

We studied two tsunamis from 2012, one generated by the El Salvador earthquake of 27 August ( Mw 7.3) and the other generated by the Philippines earthquake of 31 August ( Mw 7.6), using sea level data analysis and numerical modeling. For the El Salvador tsunami, the largest wave height was observed in Baltra, Galapagos Islands (71.1 cm) located about 1,400 km away from the source. The tsunami governing periods were around 9 and 19 min. Numerical modeling indicated that most of the tsunami energy was directed towards the Galapagos Islands, explaining the relatively large wave height there. For the Philippines tsunami, the maximum wave height of 30.5 cm was observed at Kushimoto in Japan located about 2,700 km away from the source. The tsunami governing periods were around 8, 12 and 29 min. Numerical modeling showed that a significant part of the far-field tsunami energy was directed towards the southern coast of Japan. Fourier and wavelet analyses as well as numerical modeling suggested that the dominant period of the first wave at stations normal to the fault strike is related to the fault width, while the period of the first wave at stations in the direction of fault strike is representative of the fault length.

Technical guidance and analytic services in support of SEASAT-A. [radar altimeters for altimetry and ocean wave height

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Brooks, W. L.; Dooley, R. P.

1975-01-01

The design of a high resolution radar for altimetry and ocean wave height estimation was studied. From basic principles, it is shown that a short pulse wide beam radar is the most appropriate and recommended technique for measuring both altitude and ocean wave height. To achieve a topographic resolution of + or - 10 cm RMS at 5.0 meter RMS wave heights, as required for SEASAT-A, it is recommended that the altimeter design include an onboard adaptive processor. The resulting design, which assumes a maximum likelihood estimation (MLE) processor, is shown to satisfy all performance requirements. A design summary is given for the recommended radar altimeter, which includes a full deramp STRETCH pulse compression technique followed by an analog filter bank to separate range returns as well as the assumed MLE processor. The feedback loop implementation of the MLE on a digital computer was examined in detail, and computer size, estimation accuracies, and bias due to range sidelobes are given for the MLE with typical SEASAT-A parameters. The standard deviation of the altitude estimate was developed and evaluated for several adaptive and nonadaptive split-gate trackers. Split-gate tracker biases due to range sidelobes and transmitter noise are examined. An approximate closed form solution for the altimeter power return is derived and evaluated. The feasibility of utilizing the basic radar altimeter design for the measurement of ocean wave spectra was examined.

Micro-tidal coastal reed beds: Hydro-morphological insights and observations on wave transformation from the southern Baltic Sea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

I.; | J., Möller; | T., Mantilla-Contreras; | A., Spencer; Hayes

2011-05-01

This paper investigates the hydro-morphological controls on incident wind-generated waves at, and the transformation of such waves within, two Phragmites australis reed beds in the southern Baltic Sea. Meteorological conditions in combination with geomorphological controls result, over short (<2 km) distances, in significant differences in water level and wave climate to which fringing reed beds are exposed. Significant wave height attenuation reached a maximum of 2.6% m -1 and 11.8% m -1 at the transition from open water into the reed vegetation at the sheltered and exposed sites respectively. Wave attenuation through the emergent reed vegetation was significantly lower in greater water depths, suggesting (1) a reduced influence of bed friction by small shoots/roots and/or (2) drag reduction due to flexing of plants when the wave motion is impacting stems at a greater height above the bed. For a given water depth, wave dissipation increased with increasing incident wave height, however, suggesting that, despite their ability to flex, reed stems may be rigid enough to cause increased drag under greater wave forcing. The higher frequency part of the wave spectrum (>0.5 Hz) was preferentially reduced at the reed margin, confirming the theoretical wave frequency dependence of bottom friction. The possibility of physiological adaptation (differences in reed stem diameter) to water depth and wave exposure differences is discussed. The results have implications for the possible impact of environmental changes, both acute (e.g. storm surges) or chronic (e.g. sea level rise) in character, and for the appropriate management of reed bed sites and delivery of ecological goods and services.

Esr Observations of Tid In The Polar Cusp/cap Ionosphere

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Yin, F.; Ma, S. Y.; Schlegel, K.

EISCAT-Svalbard radar provides new opportunity to study TIDs in the polar cusp/cap ionosphere. Propagation characteristics of AGW-caused TIDs in quiet days are stud- ied by means of maximum entropy cross-spectral analysis of ESR CP1 and CP2 data. Apparent vertical wave-number of the TIDs as a function of height and the horizontal wave-number vector are obtained for main period of disturbances. It is observed as the first time that some of TIDs in the polar cap/cusp ionosphere can propagate vertically from the height lower than 200 km up to as high as about 700 km with little attenu- ation. In the auroral ionosphere, however, they usually fade away below 500 km. In the region from about 100 to 180 km height, downward propagating mode is seen ob- viously. The possible relations of the TIDs with cusp particle precipitation and upper E-region heating are discussed.

Generation of multivariate near shore extreme wave conditions based on an extreme value copula for offshore boundary conditions.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Leyssen, Gert; Mercelis, Peter; De Schoesitter, Philippe; Blanckaert, Joris

2013-04-01

Near shore extreme wave conditions, used as input for numerical wave agitation simulations and for the dimensioning of coastal defense structures, need to be determined at a harbour entrance situated at the French North Sea coast. To obtain significant wave heights, the numerical wave model SWAN has been used. A multivariate approach was used to account for the joint probabilities. Considered variables are: wind velocity and direction, water level and significant offshore wave height and wave period. In a first step a univariate extreme value distribution has been determined for the main variables. By means of a technique based on the mean excess function, an appropriate member of the GPD is selected. An optimal threshold for peak over threshold selection is determined by maximum likelihood optimization. Next, the joint dependency structure for the primary random variables is modeled by an extreme value copula. Eventually the multivariate domain of variables was stratified in different classes, each of which representing a combination of variable quantiles with a joint probability, which are used for model simulation. The main variable is the wind velocity, as in the area of concern extreme wave conditions are wind driven. The analysis is repeated for 9 different wind directions. The secondary variable is water level. In shallow waters extreme waves will be directly affected by water depth. Hence the joint probability of occurrence for water level and wave height is of major importance for design of coastal defense structures. Wind velocity and water levels are only dependent for some wind directions (wind induced setup). Dependent directions are detected using a Kendall and Spearman test and appeared to be those with the longest fetch. For these directions, wind velocity and water level extreme value distributions are multivariately linked through a Gumbel Copula. These distributions are stratified into classes of which the frequency of occurrence can be calculated. For the remaining directions the univariate extreme wind velocity distribution is stratified, each class combined with 5 high water levels. The wave height at the model boundaries was taken into account by a regression with the extreme wind velocity at the offshore location. The regression line and the 95% confidence limits where combined with each class. Eventually the wave period is computed by a new regression with the significant wave height. This way 1103 synthetic events were selected and simulated with the SWAN wave model, each of which a frequency of occurrence is calculated for. Hence near shore significant wave heights are obtained with corresponding frequencies. The statistical distribution of the near shore wave heights is determined by sorting the model results in a descending order and accumulating the corresponding frequencies. This approach allows determination of conditional return periods. For example, for the imposed univariate design return periods of 100 years for significant wave height and 30 years for water level, the joint return period for a simultaneous exceedance of both conditions can be computed as 4000 years. Hence, this methodology allows for a probabilistic design of coastal defense structures.

Human Stressors Are Driving Coastal Benthic Long-Lived Sessile Fan Mussel Pinna nobilis Population Structure More than Environmental Stressors.

PubMed

Deudero, Salud; Vázquez-Luis, Maite; Álvarez, Elvira

2015-01-01

Coastal degradation and habitat disruption are severely compromising sessile marine species. The fan shell Pinna nobilis is an endemic, vulnerable species and the largest bivalve in the Mediterranean basin. In spite of species legal protection, fan shell populations are declining. Models analyzed the contributions of environmental (mean depth, wave height, maximum wave height, period of waves with high energy and mean direction of wave source) versus human-derived stressors (anchoring, protection status, sewage effluents, fishing activity and diving) as explanatory variables depicting Pinna nobilis populations at a mesoscale level. Human stressors were explaining most of the variability in density spatial distribution of fan shell, significantly disturbing benthic communities. Habitat protection affected P. nobilis structure and physical aggression by anchoring reveals a high impact on densities. Environmental variables instead played a secondary role, indicating that global change processes are not so relevant in coastal benthic communities as human-derived impacts.

Magnitudes of nearshore waves generated by tropical cyclone Winston, the strongest landfalling cyclone in South Pacific records. Unprecedented or unremarkable?

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Terry, James P.; Lau, A. Y. Annie

2018-02-01

We delimit nearshore storm waves generated by category-5 Tropical Cyclone Winston in February 2016 on the northern Fijian island of Taveuni. Wave magnitudes (heights and flow velocities) are hindcast by inverse modelling, based on the characteristics of large carbonate boulders (maximum 33.8 m3, 60.9 metric tons) that were quarried from reef-front sources, transported and deposited on coral reef platforms during Winston and older extreme events. Results indicate that Winston's storm waves on the seaward-margin of reefs fringing the southeastern coasts of Taveuni reached over 10 m in height and generated flow velocities of 14 m s- 1, thus coinciding with the scale of the biggest ancient storms as estimated from pre-existing boulder evidence. We conclude that although Winston tracked an uncommon path and was described as the most powerful storm on record to make landfall in the Fiji Islands, its coastal wave characteristics were not unprecedented on centennial timescales. At least seven events of comparable magnitude have occurred over the last 400 years.

A Study of the Effects of Seafloor Topography on Tsunami Propagation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ohata, T.; Mikada, H.; Goto, T.; Takekawa, J.

2011-12-01

For tsunami disaster mitigation, we consider the phenomena related to tsunami in terms of the generation, propagation, and run-up to the coast. With consideration for these three phenomena, we have to consider tsunami propagation to predict the arrival time and the run-up height of tsunami. Numerical simulations of tsunami that propagates from the source location to the coast have been widely used to estimate these important parameters. When a tsunami propagates, however, reflected and scattered waves arrive as later phases of tsunami. These waves are generated by the changes of water depth, and could influence the height estimation, especially in later phases. The maximum height of tsunami could be observed not as the first arrivals but as the later phases, therefore it is necessary to consider the effects of the seafloor topography on tsunami propagation. Since many simulations, however, mainly focus on the prediction of the first arrival times and the initial height of tsunami, it is difficult to simulate the later phases that are important for the tsunami disaster mitigation in the conventional methods. In this study, we investigate the effects of the seafloor topography on tsunami propagation after accommodating a tsunami simulation to the superposition of reflected and refracted waves caused by the smooth changes of water depths. Developing the new numerical code, we consider how the effects of the sea floor topography affect on the tsunami propagation, comparing with the tsunami simulated by the conventional method based on the liner long wave theory. Our simulation employs the three dimensional in-equally spaced grids in finite difference method (FDM) to introduce the real seafloor topography. In the simulation, we import the seafloor topography from the real bathymetry data near the Sendai-Bay, off the northeast Tohoku region, Japan, and simulate the tsunami propagation over the varying seafloor topography there. Comparing with the tsunami simulated by the conventional method based on the liner long wave theory, we found that the amplitudes of tsunamis are different from each other for the two simulations. The degree of the amplification of the height of tsunami in our method is larger than that in the conventional one. The height of the later phases of the tsunamis shows the discrepancy between the two results. We would like to conclude that the real changes of water depth affect the prediction of tsunami propagation and the maximum height. Because of the effects of the seafloor topography, the amplitude of the later phases is sometimes larger than the former ones. Due to the inclusion of such effects by the real topography, we believe our method lead to a higher accuracy of prediction of tsunami later phases, which would be effective for tsunami disaster mitigation.

Propagation of stationary Rossby waves in the Martian lower atmosphere

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ghosh, Priyanka; Thokuluwa, Ramkumar

The Martian lower atmospheric (-1.5 km to 29.3 km) temperature, measured by radio occultation technique during the Mars Global Surveyor (MGS) mission launched by US in November 1996, at the Northern winter hemispheric latitude of about 63(°) N clearly shows a statistically significant (above 95 percent confidential level white noise) and strong 3.5-day oscillation during 1-10 January 2006. This strong signal occurs in the longitudinal sectors of 0-30(°) E and 190-230(°) E but statistically insignificant in almost all the other longitudes. This 180 degree separation between the two peaks of occurrence of strong 3.5 day oscillation indicates that this may be associated with zonal wave number 2 structure global scale wave. At the lowest height of -1.5 km, the power observed in the longitude of 0-30(°) E is 50 K (2) and it increased gradually to the maximum power of 130 K (2) at the height of 0.8 - 1.7 km. Above this height, the power decreased monotonously and gradually to insignificant level at the height of 3.7 km (20 K (2) ). This gradual decrease of power above the height of 1.7 km indicates that radiative damping (infra red cooling due to large abundance of CO _{2} molecules and dust particles) would have played an important role in the dissipation of waves. The height and longitudinal profiles of phase of the 3.5-day wave indicate that this wave is a vertically standing and eastward propagating planetary wave respectively. Since the statistically significant spectral amplitude occurs near the high topography structures, it seems that the wave is generated by flows over the topography. In the Northern winter, it is possible that the large gradient of temperature between the low and high latitudes would lead to flow of winds from the tropical to polar latitudes. Due to the Coriolis effect, this flow would in turn move towards the right and incite wave generation when the air flows over the high topographic structures. This lead to speculate that the observed 3.5-day wave may be associated with topography-related zonal wave number 2 baroclinic Rossby wave. Similar analyses for January and February 2005 show significant 15-day oscillation for almost all the longitude sectors, indicating that this oscillation may be associated with barotropic waves generated by the geostrophic adjustment of planetary scale flows at the higher latitudes. The sharp contrast between the characteristics of atmospheric waves occurred in 2005 (summer) and 2006 (winter) indicates that there is a strong seasonal variation over the Mars. A detailed investigation will be presented about the various other characteristics of atmospheric waves observed for different years by various Mars missions.

An Earthquake Source Sensitivity Analysis for Tsunami Propagation in the Eastern Mediterranean

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Necmioglu, Ocal; Meral Ozel, Nurcan

2013-04-01

An earthquake source parameter sensitivity analysis for tsunami propagation in the Eastern Mediterranean has been performed based on 8 August 1303 Crete and Dodecanese Islands earthquake resulting in destructive inundation in the Eastern Mediterranean. The analysis involves 23 cases describing different sets of strike, dip, rake and focal depth, while keeping the fault area and displacement, thus the magnitude, same. The main conclusions of the evaluation are drawn from the investigation of the wave height distributions at Tsunami Forecast Points (TFP). The earthquake vs. initial tsunami source parameters comparison indicated that the maximum initial wave height values correspond in general to the changes in rake angle. No clear depth dependency is observed within the depth range considered and no strike angle dependency is observed in terms of amplitude change. Directivity sensitivity analysis indicated that for the same strike and dip, 180° shift in rake may lead to 20% change in the calculated tsunami wave height. Moreover, an approximately 10 min difference in the arrival time of the initial wave has been observed. These differences are, however, greatly reduced in the far field. The dip sensitivity analysis, performed separately for thrust and normal faulting, has both indicated that an increase in the dip angle results in the decrease of the tsunami wave amplitude in the near field approximately 40%. While a positive phase shift is observed, the period and the shape of the initial wave stays nearly the same for all dip angles at respective TFPs. These affects are, however, not observed at the far field. The resolution of the bathymetry, on the other hand, is a limiting factor for further evaluation. Four different cases were considered for the depth sensitivity indicating that within the depth ranges considered (15-60 km), the increase of the depth has only a smoothing effect on the synthetic tsunami wave height measurements at the selected TFPs. The strike sensitivity analysis showed clear phase shift with respect to the variation of the strike angles, without leading to severe variation of the initial and maximum waves at locations considered. Travel time maps for two cases corresponding to difference in the strike value (60° vs 150°) presented a more complex wave propagation for the case with 60° strike angle due to the fact that the normal of the fault plane is orthogonal to the main bathymetric structure in the region, namely the Eastern section of the Hellenic Arc between Crete and Rhodes Islands. For a given set of strike, dip and focal depth parameters, the effect of the variation in the rake angle has been evaluated in the rake sensitivity analysis. A waveform envelope composed of symmetric synthetic recordings at one TFPs could be clearly observed as a result of rake angle variations in 0-180° range. This could also lead to the conclusion that for a given magnitude (fault size and displacement), the expected maximum and minimum tsunami wave amplitudes could be evaluated as a waveform envelope rather limited to a single point of time or amplitude. The Evaluation of the initial wave arrival times follows an expected pattern controlled by the distance, wheras maximum wave arrival time distribution presents no clear pattern. Nevertheless, the distribution is rather concentrated in time domain for some TFPs. Maximum positive and minimum negative wave amplitude distributions indicates a broader range for a subgroup of TFPs, wheras for the remaining TFPs the distributions are narrow. Any deviation from the expected trend of calculating narrower ranges of amplitude distributions could be interpreted as the result o the bathymetry and focusing effects. As similar studies conducted in the different parts of the globe indicated, the main characteristics of the tsunami propagation are unique for each basin. It should be noted, however, that the synthetic measurements obtained at the TFPs in the absence of high-resolution bathymetric data, should be considered only an overall guidance. The results indicate the importance of the accuracy of earthquake source parameters for reliable tsunami predictions and the need for high-resolution bathymetric data to be able to perform calculations with higher accuracy. On the other hand, this study did not address other parameters, such as heterogeneous slip distribution and rupture duration, which affect the tsunami initiation and propagation process.

Long-term statistics of extreme tsunami height at Crescent City

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Dong, Sheng; Zhai, Jinjin; Tao, Shanshan

2017-06-01

Historically, Crescent City is one of the most vulnerable communities impacted by tsunamis along the west coast of the United States, largely attributed to its offshore geography. Trans-ocean tsunamis usually produce large wave runup at Crescent Harbor resulting in catastrophic damages, property loss and human death. How to determine the return values of tsunami height using relatively short-term observation data is of great significance to assess the tsunami hazards and improve engineering design along the coast of Crescent City. In the present study, the extreme tsunami heights observed along the coast of Crescent City from 1938 to 2015 are fitted using six different probabilistic distributions, namely, the Gumbel distribution, the Weibull distribution, the maximum entropy distribution, the lognormal distribution, the generalized extreme value distribution and the generalized Pareto distribution. The maximum likelihood method is applied to estimate the parameters of all above distributions. Both Kolmogorov-Smirnov test and root mean square error method are utilized for goodness-of-fit test and the better fitting distribution is selected. Assuming that the occurrence frequency of tsunami in each year follows the Poisson distribution, the Poisson compound extreme value distribution can be used to fit the annual maximum tsunami amplitude, and then the point and interval estimations of return tsunami heights are calculated for structural design. The results show that the Poisson compound extreme value distribution fits tsunami heights very well and is suitable to determine the return tsunami heights for coastal disaster prevention.

Multi-factor evaluation indicator method for the risk assessment of atmospheric and oceanic hazard group due to the attack of tropical cyclones

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Qi, Peng; Du, Mei

2018-06-01

China's southeast coastal areas frequently suffer from storm surge due to the attack of tropical cyclones (TCs) every year. Hazards induced by TCs are complex, such as strong wind, huge waves, storm surge, heavy rain, floods, and so on. The atmospheric and oceanic hazards cause serious disasters and substantial economic losses. This paper, from the perspective of hazard group, sets up a multi-factor evaluation method for the risk assessment of TC hazards using historical extreme data of concerned atmospheric and oceanic elements. Based on the natural hazard dynamic process, the multi-factor indicator system is composed of nine natural hazard factors representing intensity and frequency, respectively. Contributing to the indicator system, in order of importance, are maximum wind speed by TCs, attack frequency of TCs, maximum surge height, maximum wave height, frequency of gusts ≥ Scale 8, rainstorm intensity, maximum tidal range, rainstorm frequency, then sea-level rising rate. The first four factors are the most important, whose weights exceed 10% in the indicator system. With normalization processing, all the single-hazard factors are superposed by multiplying their weights to generate a superposed TC hazard. The multi-factor evaluation indicator method was applied to the risk assessment of typhoon-induced atmospheric and oceanic hazard group in typhoon-prone southeast coastal cities of China.

Impacts of tides on tsunami propagation due to potential Nankai Trough earthquakes in the Seto Inland Sea, Japan

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lee, Han Soo; Shimoyama, Tomohisa; Popinet, Stéphane

2015-10-01

The impacts of tides on extreme tsunami propagation due to potential Nankai Trough earthquakes in the Seto Inland Sea (SIS), Japan, are investigated through numerical experiments. Tsunami experiments are conducted based on five scenarios that consider tides at four different phases, such as flood, high, ebb, and low tides. The probes that were selected arbitrarily in the Bungo and Kii Channels show less significant effects of tides on tsunami heights and the arrival times of the first waves than those that experience large tidal ranges in inner basins and bays of the SIS. For instance, the maximum tsunami height and the arrival time at Toyomaesi differ by more than 0.5 m and nearly 1 h, respectively, depending on the tidal phase. The uncertainties defined in terms of calculated maximum tsunami heights due to tides illustrate that the calculated maximum tsunami heights in the inner SIS with standing tides have much larger uncertainties than those of two channels with propagating tides. Particularly in Harima Nada, the uncertainties due to the impacts of tides are greater than 50% of the tsunami heights without tidal interaction. The results recommend simulate tsunamis together with tides in shallow water environments to reduce the uncertainties involved with tsunami modeling and predictions for tsunami hazards preparedness. This article was corrected on 26 OCT 2015. See the end of the full text for details.

Predictions and Observations of Munitions Burial Under Intense Storm Waves at Duck, NC

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Calantoni, J.; Klammer, H.; Sheremet, A.

2017-12-01

The fate of munitions or unexploded ordnance (UXO) resting on a submarine sediment bed is a critical safety concern. Munitions may remain in place or completely disappear for significant but unknown periods, after becoming buried in the sediment bed. Clearly, burial of munitions drastically complicates the detection and removal of potential threats. Here, we present field data of wave height and surrogate munitions burial depths near the 8-m isobath at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Field Research Facility, Duck, North Carolina, observed between January and March 2015. The experiment captured a remarkable sequence of storms that included at least 10 events, of which 6 were characterized by wave fields of significant heights exceeding 2 m and with peak periods of approximately 10 s. During the strongest storm, waves of 14 s period and heights exceeding 2 m were recorded for more than 3 days; significant wave height reached 5 m at the peak of activity. At the end of the experiment, divers measured munition burial depths of up to 60 cm below the seabed level. However, the local bathymetry showed less than 5 cm variation between the before and after-storm states, suggesting the local net sediment accumulation / loss was negligible. The lack of bathymetric variability strongly suggests that the munitions sank into the bed, which would suggest an extreme state of sand agitation during the storm. We explore existing analytical solutions for the dynamic interaction between waves and sediment to predict munitions burial depths. Measured time series of wave pressure near the sediment bed were converted into wave-induced changes in pore pressures and the effective stress states of the sediment. Different sediment failure criteria based on minimum normal and maximum shear stresses were then applied to evaluate the appropriateness of individual failure criteria to predict observed burial depths. Results are subjected to a sensitivity analysis with respect to uncertain sediment parameters and summarized by representing cumulative failure times as a function of depth.

33 CFR 177.07 - Other unsafe conditions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2010 CFR

2010-07-01

... discretion, the continued operation of the vessel would create an unsafe condition. (c) Has a fuel leakage... applies to boats built after July 31, 1980); (e) Does not meet the requirements for backfire flame control... from the lowest point along the upper strake edge to the surface of the water. W=Maximum wave height in...

Smart Climatology System

DTIC Science & Technology

2010-09-24

12 2.1 Downscaling /Reanalysis Data ................................................................................ 12 2.2 Downscaling of...Comparison of Resolutions of Maximum Significant Wave heights for La Niña >= 8 ft >= 6 ft 12 2 Data Production Issues 2.1 Downscaling /Reanalysis...numerical weather prediction systems. The usage of satellite data , for example, is markedly different than the past practice. This played havoc with

Developing an event-tree probabilistic tsunami inundation model for NE Atlantic coasts: Application to case studies

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Omira, Rachid; Baptista, Maria Ana; Matias, Luis

2015-04-01

This study constitutes the first assessment of probabilistic tsunami inundation in the NE Atlantic region, using an event-tree approach. It aims to develop a probabilistic tsunami inundation approach for the NE Atlantic coast with an application to two test sites of ASTARTE project, Tangier-Morocco and Sines-Portugal. Only tsunamis of tectonic origin are considered here, taking into account near-, regional- and far-filed sources. The multidisciplinary approach, proposed here, consists of an event-tree method that gathers seismic hazard assessment, tsunami numerical modelling, and statistical methods. It presents also a treatment of uncertainties related to source location and tidal stage in order to derive the likelihood of tsunami flood occurrence and exceedance of a specific near-shore wave height during a given return period. We derive high-resolution probabilistic maximum wave heights and flood distributions for both test-sites Tangier and Sines considering 100-, 500-, and 1000-year return periods. We find that the probability that a maximum wave height exceeds 1 m somewhere along the Sines coasts reaches about 55% for 100-year return period, and is up to 100% for 1000-year return period. Along Tangier coast, the probability of inundation occurrence (flow depth > 0m) is up to 45% for 100-year return period and reaches 96% in some near-shore costal location for 500-year return period. Acknowledgements: This work is funded by project ASTARTE - Assessment, STrategy And Risk Reduction for Tsunamis in Europe. Grant 603839, 7th FP (ENV.2013.6.4-3 ENV.2013.6.4-3).

Experimental investigation of the Peregrine Breather of gravity waves on finite water depth

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Dong, G.; Liao, B.; Ma, Y.; Perlin, M.

2018-06-01

A series of laboratory experiments were performed to study the Peregrine Breather (PB) evolution in a wave flume of finite depth and deep water. Experimental cases were selected with water depths k0h (k0 is the wave number and h is the water depth) varying from 3.11 to 8.17 and initial steepness k0a0 (a0 is the background wave amplitude) in the range 0.06 to 0.12, and the corresponding initial Ursell number in the range 0.03 to 0.061. Experimental results indicate that the water depth plays an important role in the formation of the extreme waves in finite depth; the maximum wave amplification of the PB packets is also strongly dependent on the initial Ursell number. For experimental cases with the initial Ursell number larger than 0.05, the maximum crest amplification can exceed three. If the initial Ursell number is nearly 0.05, a shorter propagation distance is needed for maximum amplification of the height in deeper water. A time-frequency analysis using the wavelet transform reveals that the energy of the higher harmonics is almost in-phase with the carrier wave. The contribution of the higher harmonics to the extreme wave is significant for the cases with initial Ursell number larger than 0.05 in water depth k0h < 5.0. Additionally, the experimental results are compared with computations based on both the nonlinear Schrödinger (NLS) equation and the Dysthe equation, both with a dissipation term. It is found that both models with a dissipation term can predict the maximum amplitude amplification of the primary waves. However, the Dysthe equation also can predict the group horizontal asymmetry.

Ship Shoal as a prospective borrow site for barrier island restoration, coastal south-central Louisiana, Usa: Numerical wave modeling and field measurements of hydrodynamics and sediment transport

USGS Publications Warehouse

Stone, G.W.; Pepper, D.A.; Xu, Jie; Zhang, X.

2004-01-01

Ship Shoal, a transgressive sand body located at the 10 m isobath off south-central Louisiana, is deemed a potential sand source for restoration along the rapidly eroding Isles Dernieres barrier chain and possibly other sites in Louisiana. Through numerical wave modeling we evaluate the potential response of mining Ship Shoal on the wave field. During severe and strong storms, waves break seaward of the western flank of Ship Shoal. Therefore, removal of Ship Shoal (approximately 1.1 billion m3) causes a maximum increase of the significant wave height by 90%-100% and 40%-50% over the shoal and directly adjacent to the lee of the complex for two strong storm scenarios. During weak storms and fair weather conditions, waves do not break over Ship Shoal. The degree of increase in significant wave height due to shoal removal is considerably smaller, only 10%-20% on the west part of the shoal. Within the context of increasing nearshore wave energy levels, removal of the shoal is not significant enough to cause increased erosion along the Isles Dernieres. Wave approach direction exerts significant control on the wave climate leeward of Ship Shoal for stronger storms, but not weak storms or fairweather. Instrumentation deployed at the shoal allowed comparison of measured wave heights with numerically derived wave heights using STWAVE. Correlation coefficients are high in virtually all comparisons indicating the capability of the model to simulate wave behavior satisfactorily at the shoal. Directional waves, currents and sediment transport were measured during winter storms associated with frontal passages using three bottom-mounted arrays deployed on the seaward and landward sides of Ship Shoal (November, 1998-January, 1999). Episodic increases in wave height, mean and oscillatory current speed, shear velocity, and sediment transport rates, associated with recurrent cold front passages, were measured. Dissipation mechanisms included both breaking and bottom friction due to variable depths across the shoal crest and variable wave amplitudes during storms and fair-weather. Arctic surge fronts were associated with southerly storm waves, and southwesterly to westerly currents and sediment transport. Migrating cyclonic fronts generated northerly swell that transformed into southerly sea, and currents and sediment transport that were southeasterly overall. Waves were 36% higher and 9% longer on the seaward side of the shoal, whereas mean currents were 10% stronger landward, where they were directed onshore, in contrast to the offshore site, where seaward currents predominated. Sediment transport initiated by cold fronts was generally directed southeasterly to southwesterly at the offshore site, and southerly to westerly at the nearshore site. The data suggest that both cold fronts and the shoal, exert significant influences on regional hydrodynamics and sediment transport.

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Sommer, C. M., E-mail: christof.sommer@med.uni-heidelberg.de; Grenacher, L.; Stampfl, U.

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the impact of stent design on in-stent stenosis in rabbit iliac arteries. Four different types of stent were implanted in rabbit iliac arteries, being different in stent design (crown or wave) and strut thickness (50 or 100 {mu}m). Ten stents of each type were implanted. Each animal received one crown and one wave stent with the same strut thickness. Follow-up was either 12 weeks (n = 10 rabbits) or 24 weeks (n = 10 rabbits). Primary study end points were angiographic and microscopic in-stent stenosis. Secondary study end points were vessel injury,more » vascular inflammation, and stent endothelialization. Average stent diameter, relative stent overdilation, average and minimal luminal diameter, and relative average and maximum luminal loss were not significantly different. However, a trend to higher relative stent overdilation was recognized in crown stents compared to wave stents. A trend toward higher average and minimal luminal diameter and lower relative average and maximum luminal loss was recognized in crown stents compared to wave stents with a strut thickness of 100 {mu}m. Neointimal height, relative luminal area stenosis, injury score, inflammation score, and endothelialization score were not significantly different. However, a trend toward higher neointimal height was recognized in crown stents compared to wave stents with a strut thickness of 50 {mu}m and a follow-up of 24 weeks. In conclusion, in this study, crown stents seem to trigger neointima. However, the optimized radial force might equalize the theoretically higher tendency for restenosis in crown stents. In this context, also more favorable positive remodeling in crown stents could be important.« less

Acceleration Measurements During Landing in Rough Water of a 1/7-Scale Dynamic Model of Grumman XJR2F-1 Amphibian - Langley Tank Model 212, TED No. NACA 2378

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Land, Norman S.; Zeck, Howard

1947-01-01

Tests of a 1/7 size model of the Grumman XJR2F-1 amphibian were made in Langley tank no.1 to examine the landing behavior in rough water and to measure the normal and angular accelerations experienced by the model during these landings. All landings were made normal to the direction of wave advance, a condition assumed to produce the greatest accelerations. Wave heights of 4.4 and 8.0 inches (2.5 and 4.7 ft, full size) were used in the tests and the wave lengths were varied between 10 and 50 feet (70 and 350 ft, full size). Maximum normal accelerations of about 6.5g were obtained in 4.4 inch waves and 8.5g were obtained in 8.0 inch waves. A maximum angular acceleration corresponding to 16 radians per second per second, full size, was obtained in the higher waves. The data indicate that the airplane will experience its greatest accelerations when landing in waves of about 20 feet (140 ft, full size) in length.

Downscaling wind and wavefields for 21st century coastal flood hazard projections in a region of complex terrain

USGS Publications Warehouse

O'Neill, Andrea; Erikson, Li; Barnard, Patrick

2017-01-01

While global climate models (GCMs) provide useful projections of near-surface wind vectors into the 21st century, resolution is not sufficient enough for use in regional wave modeling. Statistically downscaled GCM projections from Multivariate Adaptive Constructed Analogues provide daily averaged near-surface winds at an appropriate spatial resolution for wave modeling within the orographically complex region of San Francisco Bay, but greater resolution in time is needed to capture the peak of storm events. Short-duration high wind speeds, on the order of hours, are usually excluded in statistically downscaled climate models and are of key importance in wave and subsequent coastal flood modeling. Here we present a temporal downscaling approach, similar to constructed analogues, for near-surface winds suitable for use in local wave models and evaluate changes in wind and wave conditions for the 21st century. Reconstructed hindcast winds (1975–2004) recreate important extreme wind values within San Francisco Bay. A computationally efficient method for simulating wave heights over long time periods was used to screen for extreme events. Wave hindcasts show resultant maximum wave heights of 2.2 m possible within the Bay. Changes in extreme over-water wind speeds suggest contrasting trends within the different regions of San Francisco Bay, but 21th century projections show little change in the overall magnitude of extreme winds and locally generated waves.

Numerical Procedure to Forecast the Tsunami Parameters from a Database of Pre-Simulated Seismic Unit Sources

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Jiménez, César; Carbonel, Carlos; Rojas, Joel

2018-04-01

We have implemented a numerical procedure to forecast the parameters of a tsunami, such as the arrival time of the front of the first wave and the maximum wave height in real and virtual tidal stations along the Peruvian coast, with this purpose a database of pre-computed synthetic tsunami waveforms (or Green functions) was obtained from numerical simulation of seismic unit sources (dimension: 50 × 50 km2) for subduction zones from southern Chile to northern Mexico. A bathymetry resolution of 30 arc-sec (approximately 927 m) was used. The resulting tsunami waveform is obtained from the superposition of synthetic waveforms corresponding to several seismic unit sources contained within the tsunami source geometry. The numerical procedure was applied to the Chilean tsunami of April 1, 2014. The results show a very good correlation for stations with wave amplitude greater than 1 m, in the case of the Arica tide station an error (from the maximum height of the observed and simulated waveform) of 3.5% was obtained, for Callao station the error was 12% and the largest error was in Chimbote with 53.5%, however, due to the low amplitude of the Chimbote wave (<1 m), the overestimated error, in this case, is not important for evacuation purposes. The aim of the present research is tsunami early warning, where speed is required rather than accuracy, so the results should be taken as preliminary.

Numerical Procedure to Forecast the Tsunami Parameters from a Database of Pre-Simulated Seismic Unit Sources

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Jiménez, César; Carbonel, Carlos; Rojas, Joel

2017-09-01

We have implemented a numerical procedure to forecast the parameters of a tsunami, such as the arrival time of the front of the first wave and the maximum wave height in real and virtual tidal stations along the Peruvian coast, with this purpose a database of pre-computed synthetic tsunami waveforms (or Green functions) was obtained from numerical simulation of seismic unit sources (dimension: 50 × 50 km2) for subduction zones from southern Chile to northern Mexico. A bathymetry resolution of 30 arc-sec (approximately 927 m) was used. The resulting tsunami waveform is obtained from the superposition of synthetic waveforms corresponding to several seismic unit sources contained within the tsunami source geometry. The numerical procedure was applied to the Chilean tsunami of April 1, 2014. The results show a very good correlation for stations with wave amplitude greater than 1 m, in the case of the Arica tide station an error (from the maximum height of the observed and simulated waveform) of 3.5% was obtained, for Callao station the error was 12% and the largest error was in Chimbote with 53.5%, however, due to the low amplitude of the Chimbote wave (<1 m), the overestimated error, in this case, is not important for evacuation purposes. The aim of the present research is tsunami early warning, where speed is required rather than accuracy, so the results should be taken as preliminary.

Investigation of Wave Energy Converter Effects on the Nearshore Environment: A Month-Long Study in Monterey Bay CA.

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Roberts, Jesse D.; Chang, Grace; Magalen, Jason

2014-09-01

A modified version of an indust ry standard wave modeling tool, SNL - SWAN, was used to perform model simulations for hourly initial wave conditio ns measured during the month of October 2009. The model was run with an array of 50 wave energy converters (WECs) and compared with model runs without WECs. Maximum changes in H s were found in the lee of the WEC array along the angles of incident wave dire ction and minimal changes were found along the western side of the model domain due to wave shadowing by land. The largest wave height reductions occurredmore » during observed typhoon conditions and resulted in 14% decreases in H s along the Santa Cruz shoreline . Shoreline reductions in H s were 5% during s outh swell wave conditions and negligible during average monthly wave conditions.« less

Transient Tsunamis in Lakes

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Couston, L.; Mei, C.; Alam, M.

2013-12-01

A large number of lakes are surrounded by steep and unstable mountains with slopes prone to failure. As a result, landslides are likely to occur and impact water sitting in closed reservoirs. These rare geological phenomena pose serious threats to dam reservoirs and nearshore facilities because they can generate unexpectedly large tsunami waves. In fact, the tallest wave experienced by contemporary humans occurred because of a landslide in the narrow bay of Lituya in 1958, and five years later, a deadly landslide tsunami overtopped Lake Vajont's dam, flooding and damaging villages along the lakefront and in the Piave valley. If unstable slopes and potential slides are detected ahead of time, inundation maps can be drawn to help people know the risks, and mitigate the destructive power of the ensuing waves. These maps give the maximum wave runup height along the lake's vertical and sloping boundaries, and can be obtained by numerical simulations. Keeping track of the moving shorelines along beaches is challenging in classical Eulerian formulations because the horizontal extent of the fluid domain can change over time. As a result, assuming a solid slide and nonbreaking waves, here we develop a nonlinear shallow-water model equation in the Lagrangian framework to address the problem of transient landslide-tsunamis. In this manner, the shorelines' three-dimensional motion is part of the solution. The model equation is hyperbolic and can be solved numerically by finite differences. Here, a 4th order Runge-Kutta method and a compact finite-difference scheme are implemented to integrate in time and spatially discretize the forced shallow-water equation in Lagrangian coordinates. The formulation is applied to different lake and slide geometries to better understand the effects of the lake's finite lengths and slide's forcing mechanism on the generated wavefield. Specifically, for a slide moving down a plane beach, we show that edge-waves trapped by the shoreline and free-waves moving away from it coexist. On an open coast, these two types of waves would never interact, but because of the lake's finite dimensions, here we show that local inundation height maxima are due to wave superposition on the shoreline. These interactions can be dramatic near the lake's corners. For instance, in a rectangular lake delimited by two opposite and plane beaches and two vertical walls, we find that a landslide tsunami results in an inundation height at a corner 50% larger than anywhere else. The nonlinear and linear models produce different inundation maps, and here we show that maximum wave runups can be increased by up to 56% when nonlinear terms are included.

SPH Simulation of Impact of a Surge on a Wall

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Diwakar, Manoj Kumar; Mohapatra, Pranab Kumar; Tripathi, Shivam

2014-05-01

Structures located on the downstream of a dam are prone to impact of the surge due to dam break flow. Ramsden (1996) experimentally studied the run-up height on a vertical wall due to propagation of bore and surge on dry bed and measured their impact on the wall. Mohapatra et al. (2000) applied Navier Stokes equations to numerically study the impact of bore on vertical and inclined walls. They also obtained the evolution of surge on dry bed. In the present work, the impact of a surge wave due to dam break flow against the wall is modeled with a two-dimensional smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) model. SPH is a mesh-free method that relies on the particle view of the field problem and approximates the continuity and momentum equations on a set of particles. The method solves the strong form of Navier-Stokes equations. The governing equations are solved numerically in the vertical plane. The propagation of the surge wave, its impact and the maximum run-up on the wall located at the boundary are analyzed. Surface profile, velocity field and pressure distributions are simulated. Non-dimensional run-up height obtained from the present numerical model is 0.86 and is in good agreement with the available experimental data of Ramsden (1996) which is in the range of 0.75-0.9. Also, the simulated profile of the surge tip was comparable to the empirical equations refereed in Ramsden (1996). The model is applied to the study the maximum force and the run-up height on inclined walls with different inclinations. The results indicate that the maximum force and the run-up height on the wall increase with the increment of wall inclination. Comparison of numerical results with analytical solutions derived from shallow water equations clearly shows the breakdown of shallow water assumption during the impact. In addition to these results, the numerical simulation yields the complete velocity and pressure ?elds which may be used to design structures located in the path of a dam-break wave. The study shows that the smoothed particle hydrodynamics can effectively simulate fluid flow dynamics. References: Mohapatra, P. K., Bhallamudi, S. M., and Eswaran, V. (2000). 'Numerical simulation of impact of bores against inclined walls.' J. Hydraulic. Engg., ASCE, 126(12), 942-945. Ramsden, J. D. (1996). 'Forces on a vertical wall due to long waves, bores, and dry-bed surges.' J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engg., ASCE, 122(3), 134-141.

3D structure and kinematics characteristics of EUV wave front

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Podladchikova, T.; Veronig, A.; Dissauer, K.

2017-12-01

We present 3D reconstructions of EUV wave fronts using multi-point observations from the STEREO-A and STEREO-B spacecraft. EUV waves are large-scale disturbances in the solar corona that are initiated by coronal mass ejections, and are thought to be large-amplitude fast-mode MHD waves or shocks. The aim of our study is to investigate the dynamic evolution of the 3D structure and wave kinematics of EUV wave fronts. We study the events on December 7, 2007 and February 13, 2009 using data from the STEREO/EUVI-A and EUVI-B instruments in the 195 Å filter. The proposed approach is based on a complementary combination of epipolar geometry of stereo vision and perturbation profiles. We propose two different solutions to the matching problem of the wave crest on images from the two spacecraft. One solution is suitable for the early and maximum stage of event development when STEREO-A and STEREO-B see the different facets of the wave, and the wave crest is clearly outlined. The second one is applicable also at the later stage of event development when the wave front becomes diffuse and is faintly visible. This approach allows us to identify automatically the segments of the diffuse front on pairs of STEREO-A and STEREO-B images and to solve the problem of identification and matching of the objects. We find that the EUV wave observed on December 7, 2007 starts with a height of 30-50 Mm, sharply increases to a height of 100-120 Mm about 10 min later, and decreases to 10-20 Mm in the decay phase. Including the 3D evolution of the EUV wave front allowed us to correct the wave kinematics for projection and changing height effects. The velocity of the wave crest (V=215-266 km/s) is larger than the trailing part of the wave pulse (V=103-163 km/s). For the February 9, 2009 event, the upward movement of the wave crest shows an increase from 20 to 100 Mm over a period of 30 min. The velocity of wave crest reaches values of 208-211 km/s.

Bed forms created by simulated waves and currents in a large flume

USGS Publications Warehouse

Lacy, Jessica R.; Rubin, David M.; Ikeda, Hiroshi; Mokudai, Kuniyasu; Hanes, Daniel M.

2007-01-01

The morphology and evolution of bed forms created by combinations of waves and currents were investigated using an oscillating plate in a 4-m-wide flume. Current speed ranged from 0 to 30 cm/s, maximum oscillatory velocity ranged from 20 to 48 cm/s, oscillation period was 8 s (except for one run with 12 s period), and the median grain size was 0.27 mm. The angle between oscillations and current was 90°, 60°, or 45°. At the end of each run the sand bed was photographed and ripple dimensions were measured. Ripple wavelength was also determined from sonar images collected throughout the runs. Increasing the ratio of current to wave (i.e., oscillatory) velocity decreased ripple height and wavelength, in part because of the increased fluid excursion during the wave period. Increasing the ratio of current to waves, or decreasing the angle between current and waves, increased the three-dimensionality of bed forms. During the runs, ripple wavelength increased by a factor of about 2. The average number of wave periods for evolution of ripple wavelength to 90% of its final value was 184 for two-dimensional ripples starting from a flat bed. Bed form orientations at the end of each run were compared to four potential controlling factors: the directions of waves, current, maximum instantaneous bed shear stress, and maximum gross bed form normal transport (MGBNT). The directions of waves and of MGBNT were equally good predictors of bed form orientations, and were significantly better than the other two factors.

Trend analysis of the wave storminess: the wave direction

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Casas Prat, M.; Sierra, J. P.; Mösso, C.; Sánchez-Arcilla, A.

2009-09-01

Climate change has an important role in the current scientific research because of its possible future negative consequences. Concerning the climate change in the coastal engineering field, the apparent sea level rise is one of the key parameters as well as the wave height and the wave direction temporal variations. According to the IPCC (2007), during the last century the sea level has been increasing with a mean rate of 1.7 ± 0.5 mm/yr. However, at local/regional scale the tendency significantly differs from the global trend since the local pressure and wind field variations become more relevant. This appears to be particularly significant in semi-enclosed areas in the Mediterranean Sea (Cushman-Roisin et al., 2001). Even though the existing unsolved questions related to the sea level rise, the uncertainty concerning the wave height is even larger, in which stormy conditions are especially important because they are closely related to processes such as coastal erosion, flooding, etc. Therefore, it is necessary to identify possible existing tendencies of storm related parameters. In many studies, only the maximum wave height and storm duration are analysed, remaining the wave direction in a second term. Note that a possible rotation of the mean wave direction may involve severe consequences since most beach and harbour defence structures have been designed assuming a constant predominant wave incidence. Liste et al. (2004) illustrated this fact with an example in which a rotation of only 2 degrees of the mean energy flux vector could produce a beach retreat of 20 m. Another possible consequence would be a decrease of the harbour operability: increased frequency of storms in the same direction as the harbour entrance orientation would influence the navigability. The present study, which focuses in the Catalan coast (NW Mediterranean Sea), aims to improve the present knowledge of the wave storminess variations at regional scale, specially focusing on the wave directionality. It is based on 44 year hindcast model data (1958-2001) of the HIPOCAS project, enabling to work with a longer time series compared to the existing measured ones. 41 nodes of this database are used, containing 3 hourly simulated data of significant wave height and wave direction, among other parameters. For storm definition, the Peak Over Threshold (POT) method is used with some additional duration requirements in order to analyse statistically independent events (Mendoza & Jiménez, 2006). Including both wave height and storm duration, the wave storminess is characterised by the energy content (Mendoza & Jiménez, 2004), being in turn log-transformed because of its positive scale. Separately, the wave directionality itself is analysed in terms of different sectors and approaching their probability of occurrence by counting events and using Bayesian inference (Agresti, 2002). Therefore, the original data is transformed into compositional data and, before performing the trend analysis, the isometric logratio (ilr) transformation (Egozcue et al., 2003) is done. In general, the trend analysis methodology consists in two steps: 1) trend detection and 2) trend quantification. For 1) the Mann Kendall test is used in order to identify the nodes with significant trend. For these selected nodes, the trend quantification is done, comparing two methods: 1) a simple linear regression analysis complemented with the bootstrap technique and 2) a Bayesian analysis, assuming normally distributed data with linearly increasing mean. Preliminary results show no significant trend for both annual mean and maximum energy content except for some nodes located to the Northern Catalan coast. Regarding the wave direction (but not only considering stormy conditions) there is a tendency of North direction to decrease whereas South and Southeast direction seems to increase.

On the Simulation of Sea States with High Significant Wave Height for the Validation of Parameter Retrieval Algorithms for Future Altimetry Missions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kuschenerus, Mieke; Cullen, Robert

2016-08-01

To ensure reliability and precision of wave height estimates for future satellite altimetry missions such as Sentinel 6, reliable parameter retrieval algorithms that can extract significant wave heights up to 20 m have to be established. The retrieved parameters, i.e. the retrieval methods need to be validated extensively on a wide range of possible significant wave heights. Although current missions require wave height retrievals up to 20 m, there is little evidence of systematic validation of parameter retrieval methods for sea states with wave heights above 10 m. This paper provides a definition of a set of simulated sea states with significant wave height up to 20 m, that allow simulation of radar altimeter response echoes for extreme sea states in SAR and low resolution mode. The simulated radar responses are used to derive significant wave height estimates, which can be compared with the initial models, allowing precision estimations of the applied parameter retrieval methods. Thus we establish a validation method for significant wave height retrieval for sea states causing high significant wave heights, to allow improved understanding and planning of future satellite altimetry mission validation.

Coastal flooding hazard related to storms and coastal evolution in Valdelagrana spit (Cadiz Bay Natural Park, SW Spain)

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Benavente, J.; Del Río, L.; Gracia, F. J.; Martínez-del-Pozo, J. A.

2006-06-01

Mapping of coastal inundation hazard related to storms requires the combination of multiple sources of information regarding meteorological, morphological and dynamic characteristics of both the area at risk and the studied phenomena. Variables such as beach slope, storm wave height or wind speed have traditionally been used, but detailed geomorphological features of the area as well as long-term shoreline evolution trends must also be taken into account in order to achieve more realistic results. This work presents an evaluation of storm flooding hazard in Valdelagrana spit and marshes (SW Spain), considering two types of storm that are characteristic of the area: a modal storm with 1 year of recurrence interval (maximum wave height of 3.3 m), and an extreme storm with 6-10 years of recurrence interval (maximum wave height of 10.6 m), both approaching the coast perpendicularly. After calculating theoretical storm surge elevation, a digital terrain model was made by adjusting topographic data to field work and detailed geomorphological analysis. A model of flooding extent was subsequently developed for each storm type, and then corrected according to the rates of shoreline change in the last decades, which were assessed by means of aerial photographs taking the dune toe as shoreline indicator. Results show that long-term coastline trend represents an important factor in the prediction of flooding extent, since shoreline retreat causes the deterioration of natural coastal defences as dune ridges, thus increasing coastal exposure to high-energy waves. This way, it has been stated that the lack of sedimentary supply plays an important role in spatial variability of inundation extent in Valdelagrana spit. Finally, a hazard map is presented, where calculated coastal retreat rates are employed in order to predict the areas that could be affected by future inundation events.

Comparison between Observed Tsunami Heights and Numerical Simulation of the 1854 Ansei-Tokai Earthquake Tsunami in Gokasho Bay, central Japan

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Naruhashi, R.; Satake, K.; Heidarzadeh, M.; Harada, T.

2014-12-01

　Gokasho Bay is a blockade inner bay which has typical ria coasts and drowned valleys. It is located in the central Kii Peninsula and faces the Nankai Trough subduction zone. This Kumano-nada coastal area has been repeatedly striked by historical great tsunamis. For the 1854 Ansei-Tokai earthquake and its tsunami, there are comparatively many historical records including historical documents and oral traditions for tsunami behavior and damages along the coast.　Based on these records, a total of 42 tsunami heights were measured by using a laser range finder and a hand level on the basis of spot elevation given by 1/2500 topographical maps. The average inundation height of whole bay area was approximately 4 - 5 m. On the whole, in the closed-off section of the bay, large values were obtained. For example, the average value in Gokasho-ura town area was 4 m, and the maximum run-up height along the Gokasho river was 6.8 m. Particularly in Konsa, located in the most closed-off section of the bay, tsunami heights ranged between 4 - 11 m, and were higher than those in other districts. It was comparatively high along the eastern coast and eastern baymouth.　We simulate the distribution of the tsunami wave heights using numerical modeling, and compare the simulation results and above-mentioned actual historical data and results of our field survey. Based on fault models by Ando (1975), Aida (1981), and Annaka et al. (2003), the tsunami simulation was performed.　After comparing the calculated results by three fault models, the wave height based on the model by Annaka et al. (2003) was found to have better agreement with observations. Moreover, the wave height values in a closed-off section of bay and at the eastern baymouth are high consistent with our survey data.

Wind-enhanced resuspension in the shallow waters of South San Francisco Bay: Mechanisms and potential implications for cohesive sediment transport

USGS Publications Warehouse

Brand, Andreas; Lacy, Jessica R.; Hsu, Kevin; Hoover, Daniel; Gladding, Steve; Stacey, Mark T.

2010-01-01

We investigated the driving forces of sediment dynamics at the shoals in South San Francisco Bay. Two stations were deployed along a line perpendicular to a 14 m deep channel, 1000 and 2000 m from the middle of the channel. Station depths were 2.59 and 2.19 m below mean lower low water, respectively. We used acoustic Doppler velocimeters for the simultaneous determination of current velocities, turbulence, sediment concentration and fluxes. Maximum current shear velocities were 0.015 m s−1 at the station further from the channel (closer to the shore) and 0.02 m s−1 at the station closer to the channel. Peak wave-induced shear velocities exceeded 0.015 m s−1 at both stations. Maximum sediment concentrations were around 30 g m−3 during calm periods (root mean square wave height −3 and sediment fluxes were 5 times higher than in calm conditions (0.02 g m−2 s−1 versus >0.10 g m−2 s−1) at the station further from the channel 0.36 m above the bed. Closer to the channel, sediment concentrations and vertical fluxes due to wind wave resuspension were persistently lower (maximum concentrations around 50 g m−3 and maximum fluxes around 0.04 g m−2 s−1). Most resuspension events occurred during flood tides that followed wave events during low water. Although wave motions are able to resuspend sediment into the wave boundary layer at low tide, the observed large increases in sediment fluxes are due to the nonlinear interaction of wind waves and the tidal currents.

Azimuth cut-off model for significant wave height investigation along coastal water of Kuala Terengganu, Malaysia

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Marghany, Maged; Ibrahim, Zelina; Van Genderen, Johan

2002-11-01

The present work is used to operationalize the azimuth cut-off concept in the study of significant wave height. Three ERS-1 images have been used along the coastal waters of Terengganu, Malaysia. The quasi-linear transform was applied to map the SAR wave spectra into real ocean wave spectra. The azimuth cut-off was then used to model the significant wave height. The results show that azimuth cut-off varied with the different period of the ERS-1 images. This is because of the fact that the azimuth cut-off is a function of wind speed and significant wave height. It is of interest to find that the significant wave height modeled from azimuth cut-off is in good relation with ground wave conditions. It can be concluded that ERS-1 can be used as a monitoring tool in detecting the significant wave height variation. The azimuth cut-off can be used to model the significant wave height. This means that the quasi-linear transform could be a good application to significant wave height variation during different seasons.

The 2004 Sumatra tsunami in the southeastern Pacific: Coastal and offshore measurements and numerical modeling

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Moore, C. W.; Eble, M. C.; Rabinovich, A.; Titov, V. V.

2016-12-01

The Mw = 9.3 megathrust earthquake of December 26, 2004 off the coast of Sumatra generated a catastrophic tsunami that crossed the Indian Ocean and was widespread in the Pacific and Atlantic oceans being recorded by a great number of coastal tide gauges located in 15-25 thousand kilometers from the source area. The data from these instruments throughout the world oceans enabled estimates of various statistical parameters and energy decay of this event. However, only very few open-ocean records of this tsunami had been obtained. A unique high-resolution record of this tsunami from DART 32401 located offshore of northern Chile, combined with the South American mainland tide gauge measurements and the data from three island stations (San Felix, Juan Fernandez and Easter) enabled us to examine far-field characteristics of the event in the southeastern Pacific and to compare the results of global numerical simulations with observations. The maximum wave height measured at DART 32401 was only 1.8 cm but the signal was very clear and reliable. Despite their small heights, the waves demonstrated consistent spatial and temporal structure and good agreement with DART 46405/NeMO records in the NE Pacific. The travel time from the source area to DART 32401 was 25h 55min in good agreement with the computed travel time (25h 45min) and consistent with the times obtained from the nearby coastal tide gauges. This agreement was much better than it followed from the direct travel time estimation based classical kinematic theory that gave the travel time approximately 1.5 hrs shorter than observed. The later actual arrival of the 2004 tsunami waves corresponds to the most energetically economic path along the mid-ocean ridge wave-guides, which is distinctly reproduced by the numerical model. Also, the numerical model described well the frequency content, amplitudes and general structure of the observed waves at this DART and the three island stations. Maximum wave heights in this region were identified at Arica (72 cm) and Callao (65 cm). The open-ocean and coastal records indicate that the 2004 tsunami wave energy occupied the period band of 6 min to 3.7 hrs with the main energy concentrated at periods of 30 to 70 min and peak values at 40 min.

The simulation of Typhoon-induced coastal inundation in Busan, South Korea applying the downscaling technique

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Jang, Dongmin; Park, Junghyun; Yuk, Jin-Hee; Joh, MinSu

2017-04-01

Due to typhoons, the south coastal cities including Busan in South Korea coastal are very vulnerable to a surge, wave and corresponding coastal inundation, and are affected every year. In 2016, South Korea suffered tremendous damage by typhoon 'Chaba', which was developed near east-north of Guam on Sep. 28 and had maximum 10-minute sustained wind speed of about 50 m/s, 1-minute sustained wind speed of 75 m/s and a minimum central pressure of 905 hpa. As 'Chaba', which is the strongest since typhoon 'Maemi' in 2003, hit South Korea on Oct. 5, it caused a massive economic and casualty damage to Ulsan, Gyeongju and Busan in South Korea. In particular, the damage of typhoon-induced coastal inundation in Busan, where many high-rise buildings and residential areas are concentrated near coast, was serious. The coastal inundation could be more affected by strong wind-induced wave than surge. In fact, it was observed that the surge height was about 1 m averagely and a significant wave height was about 8 m at coastal sea nearby Busan on Oct. 5 due to 'Chaba'. Even though the typhoon-induced surge elevated the sea level, the typhoon-induced long period wave with wave period of more than 15s could play more important role in the inundation. The present work simulated the coastal inundation induced by 'Chaba' in Busan, South Korea considering the effects of typhoon-induced surge and wave. For 'Chaba' hindcast, high resolution Weather Research and Forecasting model (WRF) was applied using a reanalysis data produced by NCEP (FNL 0.25 degree) on the boundary and initial conditions, and was validated by the observation of wind speed, direction and pressure. The typhoon-induced coastal inundation was simulated by an unstructured gird model, Finite Volume Community Ocean Model (FVCOM), which is fully current-wave coupled model. To simulate the wave-induced inundation, 1-way downscaling technique of multi domain was applied. Firstly, a mother's domain including Korean peninsula was simulated using wind and pressure produced by WRF to produce surge and wave. And then, the wave-induced inundation was simulated applying the surge height and wave height simulated by mother's model to the open boundary and initial condition of child's model which was ranged near Busan. Our simulated surge height is generally underestimated about 15 % due to the underestimation of surface pressure on WRF. However, since the effect of wave on inundation could be more significant than surge-induced forcing in this real system, our research could predict the typhoon-induced inundation by combining the surge and wave forcing in nested domain.

A climatology of extreme wave height events impacting eastern Lake Ontario shorelines

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Grieco, Matthew B.; DeGaetano, Arthur T.

2018-05-01

Model-derived wave height data for points along the eastern Lake Ontario shoreline provide the basis for a 36-year climatology of extreme wave heights. The most extreme wave heights exceed 6 m at all locations, except for those along the extreme northeastern shoreline of the Lake. Typically extreme wave events are a regional phenomenon, affecting multiple locations along the eastern and southeastern shoreline. A pronounced seasonal cycle in wave event occurrence is characterized by peaks in autumn and spring, with an absence of 99.9th percentile wave heights during summer. Less extreme (90th percentile heights) occur in all months with a peak in winter. Extreme wave events are most often associated with a low pressure center tracking to the north of Lake Ontario from the Ohio Valley. This track produces the strong winds > 10 ms-1 and predominantly west-to-east wind fetch that characterize high wave height events. The seasonal frequency of the wave events exceeding the historical 95th percentile has shown a statistically significant increase at most locations since 1979. This has been partially offset by declines in the frequency of events with wave heights between the 90 and 95th percentile. Seasonal extreme wave height frequency is also found to be related to the occurrence of El Niño. During El Niño winters, there are significantly fewer events with wave heights exceeding 2.5 m than would be expected by chance. A corresponding relationship to La Niña occurrence is not evident.

Incident wave, infragravity wave, and non-linear low-frequency bore evolution across fringing coral reefs

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Storlazzi, C. D.; Griffioen, D.; Cheriton, O. M.

2016-12-01

Coral reefs have been shown to significantly attenuate incident wave energy and thus provide protection for 100s of millions of people globally. To better constrain wave dynamics and wave-driven water levels over fringing coral reefs, a 4-month deployment of wave and tide gauges was conducted across two shore-normal transects on Roi-Namur Island and two transects on Kwajalein Island in the Republic of the Marshall Islands. At all locations, although incident wave (periods <25 s) heights were an order of magnitude greater than infragravity wave (periods > 250 s) heights on the outer reef flat just inshore of the zone of wave breaking, the infragravity wave heights generally equaled the incident wave heights by the middle of the reef flat and exceeded the incident wave heights on the inner reef flat by the shoreline. The infragravity waves generally were asymmetric, positively skewed, bore-like forms with incident-band waves riding the infragravity wave crest at the head of the bore; these wave packets have similar structure to high-frequency internal waves on an internal wave bore. Bore height was shown to scale with water depth, offshore wave height, and offshore wave period. For a given tidal elevation, with increasing offshore wave heights, such bores occurred more frequently on the middle reef flat, whereas they occurred less frequently on the inner reef flat. Skewed, asymmetric waves are known to drive large gradients in velocity and shear stress that can transport material onshore. Thus, a better understanding of these low-frequency, energetic bores on reef flats is critical to forecasting how coral reef-lined coasts may respond to sea-level rise and climate change.

Multi-decadal storminess fluctuations of Black Sea due to North Atlantic Oscillation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kuznetsov, Sergey; Saprykina, Yana; Grigorieva, Victoria; Aydoǧan, Berna; Aydoǧan, Burak

2017-04-01

Storminess variability is of key importance for many marine applications, naval and coastal engineering. Studying the evolution of this phenomenon along with large scale atmospheric patterns and being able to predict them is crucial for in the context of rising sea level due to climate change what make the low-lying coasts in the Black Sea to become increasingly vulnerable to marine hazards. The aim of this work is to clarify the trends, statistics and reasons of variations of storminess in dependence of such climatic characteristic as NAO (North Atlantic Oscillation Index). The analysis of Black Sea storminess activity was performed on the base of visual wave observations (Voluntary Observing Ship or VOS) for the period 1970-2011. Annual means and maximum heights of wind-driven seas and swell waves averaging over whole Black Sea area were investigated separately. The both wind-driven seas and swell demonstrate the decreasing in heights about 10% the same as their periods for the chosen time frame. Parametric spectral analysis was performed. The periods of wave height fluctuations for wind-driven seas and swell were shown to coincide with each other and with periods of low frequency fluctuation of NOA: 14 and 4 year respectively. Correlation coefficients of wave height and NOA were 0.3 for swell and 0.4 for wind-driven sea. Nonlinear regularities of NAO fluctuations were investigated using wavelet and spavlet (spectra of modules of wavelet coefficients) analyses. Their influence on variability of storminess in Black Sea is discussed. The reported study was funded by RFBR (project No. 16-55-76002 ERA_a) and by TUBITAK (project No. 116M061) in frame of BS STEMA project.

Quantification of nearshore morphology based on video imaging

USGS Publications Warehouse

Alexander, P.S.; Holman, R.A.

2004-01-01

The Argus network is a series of video cameras with aerial views of beaches around the world. Intensity contrasts in time exposure images reveal areas of preferential breaking, which are closely tied to underlying bed morphology. This relationship was further investigated, including the effect of tidal elevation and wave height on the presence of wave breaking and its cross-shore position over sand bars. Computerized methods of objectively extracting shoreline and sand bar locations were developed, allowing the vast quantity of data generated by Argus to be more effectively examined. Once features were identified in the images, daily alongshore mean values were taken to create time series of shoreline and sand bar location, which were analyzed for annual cycles and cross-correlated with wave data to investigate environmental forcing and response. These data extraction techniques were applied to images from four of the Argus camera sites. A relationship between wave height and shoreline location was found in which increased wave heights resulted in more landward shoreline positions; given the short lag times over which this correlation was significant, and that the strong annual signal in wave height was not replicated in the shoreline time series, it is likely that this relationship is a result of set-up during periods of large waves. Wave height was also found to have an effect on sand bar location, whereby an increase in wave height resulted in offshore bar migration. This correlation was significant over much longer time lags than the relationship between wave height and shoreline location, and a strong annual signal was found in the location of almost all observed bars, indicating that the sand bars are migrating with changes in wave height. In the case of the site with multiple sand bars, the offshore bars responded more significantly to changes in wave height, whereas the innermost bar seemed to be shielded from incident wave energy by breaking over the other bars. A relationship was also found between a site's mean wave height and inner sand bar location; sites with the highest wave heights tended to have sand bars farther from shore than those with relatively low wave heights. ?? 2004 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Spectral evolution and extreme value analysis of non-linear numerical simulations of narrow band random surface gravity waves.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Socquet-Juglard, H.; Dysthe, K. B.; Trulsen, K.; Liu, J.; Krogstad, H. E.

2003-04-01

Numerical simulations of a narrow band gaussian spectrum of random surface gravity waves have been carried out in two and three spatial dimensions [7]. Different types of non-linear Schr&{uml;o}dinger equations, [1] and [4], have been used in these simulations. Simulations have now been carried with a JONSWAP spectrum associated with a spreading function of the type cosine-squared [5]. The evolution of the spectrum, skewness, kurtosis, ... will be presented. In addition, some results about stochastic properties of the surface will be shown. Based on the approach found in [2], [3] and [6], the results are presented in terms of deviations from linear Gaussian theory and the standard second order small slope perturbation theory. begin{thebibliography}{9} bibitem{kk96} Trulsen, K. &Dysthe, K. B. (1996). A modified nonlinear Schr&{uml;o}dinger equation for broader bandwidth gravity waves on deep water. Wave Motion, 24, pp. 281-289. bibitem{BK2000} Krogstad, H.E. and S.F. Barstow (2000). A uniform approach to extreme value analysis of ocean waves, Proc. ISOPE'2000, Seattle, USA, 3, pp. 103-108. bibitem{PRK} Prevosto, M., H. E. Krogstad and A. Robin (2000). Probability distributions for maximum wave and crest heights, Coast. Eng., 40, 329-360. bibitem{ketal} Trulsen, K., Kliakhandler, I., Dysthe, K. B. &Velarde, M. G. (2000) On weakly nonlinear modulation of waves on deep water, Phys. Fluids, 12, pp. L25-L28. bibitem{onorato} Onorato, M., Osborne, A.R. and Serio, M. (2002) Extreme wave events in directional, random oceanic sea states, Phys. Fluids, 14, pp. 2432-2437. bibitem{BK2002} Krogstad, H.E. and S.F. Barstow (2002). Analysis and Applications of Second Order Models for the Maximum Crest height, % Proc. 21nd Int. Conf. Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering, Oslo. Paper no. OMAE2002-28479. bibitem{JFMP} Dysthe, K. B., Trulsen, K., Krogstad, H. E. and Socquet-Juglard, H. (2002, in press) Evolution of a narrow band spectrum of random surface gravity waves, J. Fluid Mech.

Oceanic-wave-measurement system

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Holmes, J. F.; Miles, R. T.

1980-01-01

Barometer mounted on bouy senses wave heights. As wave motion raises and lowers barometer, pressure differential is proportional to wave height. Monitoring circuit samples barometer output every half cycle of wave motion and adds magnitudes of adjacent positive and negative peaks. Resulting output signals, proportional to wave height, are transmitted to central monitoring station.

Movable-Bed Laboratory Experiments Comparing Radiation Stress and Energy Flux Factor as Predictors of Longshore Transport Rate.

DTIC Science & Technology

1981-04-01

acceleration of gravity H wave height H average wave height Hrms root-mean-square wave height Hs significant wave height IX longshore transport rate in...wave height, H, measured during the tests (and discussed later in Section IV) is equal to Hrms . By rewriting equation (4), S ( Cg cos.) C (7) xy 8 Cg...only for conditions where H equals Hrms * 2. Energy Flux. In literature, the longshore transport rate has been empirically related most frequently to a

Prediction and observation of munitions burial in energetic storms

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Klammler, Harald; Sheremet, Alexandru; Calantoni, Joseph

2017-04-01

The fate of munitions or unexploded ordnance (UXO) resting on a submarine sediment bed is a critical safety concern. Munitions may be transported in uncontrolled ways to create potentially dangerous situations at places like beaches or ports. Alternatively, they may remain in place or completely disappear for significant but unknown periods, after becoming buried in the sediment bed. Clearly, burial of munitions drastically complicates the detection and removal of potential threats. Here, we present field data of wave height and (surrogate) munitions burial depths near the 8-m isobath at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Field Research Facility, Duck, North Carolina, observed between January and March 2015. The experiment captured a remarkable sequence of storms that included at least 10 events, of which 6 were characterized by wave fields of significant heights exceeding 2 m and with peak periods of approximately 10 s. During the strongest storm, waves of 14 s period and heights exceeding 2 m were recorded for more than 3 days; significant wave height reached 5 m at the peak of activity. At the end of the experiment, divers measured munition burial depths of up to 60 cm below the seabed level. However, the local bathymetry showed less than 5 cm variation between the before and after-storm states, suggesting the local net sediment accumulation / loss was negligible. The lack of bathymetric variability excludes the possibility of burial by a migrating bed form or by sediment deposition, and strongly indicates that the munitions sank into the bed. The depth of burial also suggest an extreme state of sand agitation during the storm. For predicting munitions burial depths, we explore existing analytical solutions for the dynamic interaction between waves and sediment. Measured time series of wave pressure near the sediment bed were converted into wave-induced changes in pore pressures and the effective stress states of the sediment. Different sediment failure criteria based on minimum normal and maximum shear stresses are then applied to evaluate the appropriateness of individual failure criteria to predict observed burial depths. Results are subjected to a sensitivity analysis with respect to uncertain sediment parameters and summarized by representing cumulative failure times as a function of depth.

Critical bifurcation of shallow microtidal landforms in tidal flats and salt marshes

PubMed Central

Fagherazzi, Sergio; Carniello, Luca; D'Alpaos, Luigi; Defina, Andrea

2006-01-01

Shallow tidal basins are characterized by extensive tidal flats and salt marshes that lie within specific ranges of elevation, whereas intermediate elevations are less frequent in intertidal landscapes. Here we show that this bimodal distribution of elevations stems from the characteristics of wave-induced sediment resuspension and, in particular, from the reduction of maximum wave height caused by dissipative processes in shallow waters. The conceptual model presented herein is applied to the Venice Lagoon, Italy, and demonstrates that areas at intermediate elevations are inherently unstable and tend to become either tidal flats or salt marshes. PMID:16707583

Landing Characteristics in Waves of Three Dynamic Models of Flying Boats

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Benson, James M.; Havens, Robert F.; Woodward, David R.

1947-01-01

Powered models of three different flying boats were landed in oncoming wave of various heights and lengths. The resulting motions and acceleration were recorded to survey the effects of varying the trim at landing, the deceleration after landing, and the size of the waves. One of the models had an unusually long afterbody. The data for landing with normal rates of deceleration indicated that the most severe motions and accelerations were likely to occur at some period of the landing run subsequent to the initial impact. Landings made at abnormally low trims led to unusually severe bounces during the runout. The least severe landing occurred after a small lending when the model was rapidly decelerated at about 0.4 g in a simulation of the proposed use of braking devices. The severity of the landings increased with wave height and was at a maximum when the wave length was of the order of from one and one-half to twice the over-all length of the model. The models with afterbodies of moderate length frequently bounced clear of the water into a stalled attitude at speeds below flying speed. The model with the long afterbody had less tendency to bounce from the waves and consequently showed less severe accelerations during the landing run than the models with moderate lengths of afterbody.

Rip currents and alongshore flows in single channels dredged in the surf zone

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Moulton, Melissa; Elgar, Steve; Raubenheimer, Britt; Warner, John C.; Kumar, Nirnimesh

2017-05-01

To investigate the dynamics of flows near nonuniform bathymetry, single channels (on average 30 m wide and 1.5 m deep) were dredged across the surf zone at five different times, and the subsequent evolution of currents and morphology was observed for a range of wave and tidal conditions. In addition, circulation was simulated with the numerical modeling system COAWST, initialized with the observed incident waves and channel bathymetry, and with an extended set of wave conditions and channel geometries. The simulated flows are consistent with alongshore flows and rip-current circulation patterns observed in the surf zone. Near the offshore-directed flows that develop in the channel, the dominant terms in modeled momentum balances are wave-breaking accelerations, pressure gradients, advection, and the vortex force. The balances vary spatially, and are sensitive to wave conditions and the channel geometry. The observed and modeled maximum offshore-directed flow speeds are correlated with a parameter based on the alongshore gradient in breaking-wave-driven-setup across the nonuniform bathymetry (a function of wave height and angle, water depths in the channel and on the sandbar, and a breaking threshold) and the breaking-wave-driven alongshore flow speed. The offshore-directed flow speed increases with dissipation on the bar and reaches a maximum (when the surf zone is saturated) set by the vertical scale of the bathymetric variability.

Rip currents and alongshore flows in single channels dredged in the surf zone

USGS Publications Warehouse

Moulton, Melissa; Elgar, Steve; Raubenheimer, Britt; Warner, John C.; Kumar, Nirnimesh

2017-01-01

To investigate the dynamics of flows near nonuniform bathymetry, single channels (on average 30 m wide and 1.5 m deep) were dredged across the surf zone at five different times, and the subsequent evolution of currents and morphology was observed for a range of wave and tidal conditions. In addition, circulation was simulated with the numerical modeling system COAWST, initialized with the observed incident waves and channel bathymetry, and with an extended set of wave conditions and channel geometries. The simulated flows are consistent with alongshore flows and rip-current circulation patterns observed in the surf zone. Near the offshore-directed flows that develop in the channel, the dominant terms in modeled momentum balances are wave-breaking accelerations, pressure gradients, advection, and the vortex force. The balances vary spatially, and are sensitive to wave conditions and the channel geometry. The observed and modeled maximum offshore-directed flow speeds are correlated with a parameter based on the alongshore gradient in breaking-wave-driven-setup across the nonuniform bathymetry (a function of wave height and angle, water depths in the channel and on the sandbar, and a breaking threshold) and the breaking-wave-driven alongshore flow speed. The offshore-directed flow speed increases with dissipation on the bar and reaches a maximum (when the surf zone is saturated) set by the vertical scale of the bathymetric variability.

Gravity wave momentum flux estimation from CRISTA satellite data

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ern, M.; Preusse, P.; Alexander, M. J.; Offermann, D.

2003-04-01

Temperature altitude profiles measured by the CRISTA satellite were analyzed for gravity waves (GWs). Amplitudes, vertical and horizontal wavelengths of GWs are retrieved by applying a combination of maximum entropy method (MEM) and harmonic analysis (HA) to the temperature height profiles and subsequently comparing the so retrieved GW phases of adjacent altitude profiles. From these results global maps of the absolute value of the vertical flux of horizontal momentum have been estimated. Significant differences between distributions of the temperature variance and distributions of the momentum flux exist. For example, global maps of the momentum flux show a pronounced northward shift of the equatorial maximum whereas temperature variance maps of the tropics/subtropics are nearly symmetric with respect to the equator. This indicates the importance of the influence of horizontal and vertical wavelength distribution on global structures of the momentum flux.

Tsunamis caused by submarine slope failures along western Great Bahama Bank

PubMed Central

Schnyder, Jara S.D.; Eberli, Gregor P.; Kirby, James T.; Shi, Fengyan; Tehranirad, Babak; Mulder, Thierry; Ducassou, Emmanuelle; Hebbeln, Dierk; Wintersteller, Paul

2016-01-01

Submarine slope failures are a likely cause for tsunami generation along the East Coast of the United States. Among potential source areas for such tsunamis are submarine landslides and margin collapses of Bahamian platforms. Numerical models of past events, which have been identified using high-resolution multibeam bathymetric data, reveal possible tsunami impact on Bimini, the Florida Keys, and northern Cuba. Tsunamis caused by slope failures with terminal landslide velocity of 20 ms−1 will either dissipate while traveling through the Straits of Florida, or generate a maximum wave of 1.5 m at the Florida coast. Modeling a worst-case scenario with a calculated terminal landslide velocity generates a wave of 4.5 m height. The modeled margin collapse in southwestern Great Bahama Bank potentially has a high impact on northern Cuba, with wave heights between 3.3 to 9.5 m depending on the collapse velocity. The short distance and travel time from the source areas to densely populated coastal areas would make the Florida Keys and Miami vulnerable to such low-probability but high-impact events. PMID:27811961

Tsunamis caused by submarine slope failures along western Great Bahama Bank

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Schnyder, Jara S. D.; Eberli, Gregor P.; Kirby, James T.; Shi, Fengyan; Tehranirad, Babak; Mulder, Thierry; Ducassou, Emmanuelle; Hebbeln, Dierk; Wintersteller, Paul

2016-11-01

Submarine slope failures are a likely cause for tsunami generation along the East Coast of the United States. Among potential source areas for such tsunamis are submarine landslides and margin collapses of Bahamian platforms. Numerical models of past events, which have been identified using high-resolution multibeam bathymetric data, reveal possible tsunami impact on Bimini, the Florida Keys, and northern Cuba. Tsunamis caused by slope failures with terminal landslide velocity of 20 ms-1 will either dissipate while traveling through the Straits of Florida, or generate a maximum wave of 1.5 m at the Florida coast. Modeling a worst-case scenario with a calculated terminal landslide velocity generates a wave of 4.5 m height. The modeled margin collapse in southwestern Great Bahama Bank potentially has a high impact on northern Cuba, with wave heights between 3.3 to 9.5 m depending on the collapse velocity. The short distance and travel time from the source areas to densely populated coastal areas would make the Florida Keys and Miami vulnerable to such low-probability but high-impact events.

Tsunamis caused by submarine slope failures along western Great Bahama Bank.

PubMed

Schnyder, Jara S D; Eberli, Gregor P; Kirby, James T; Shi, Fengyan; Tehranirad, Babak; Mulder, Thierry; Ducassou, Emmanuelle; Hebbeln, Dierk; Wintersteller, Paul

2016-11-04

Submarine slope failures are a likely cause for tsunami generation along the East Coast of the United States. Among potential source areas for such tsunamis are submarine landslides and margin collapses of Bahamian platforms. Numerical models of past events, which have been identified using high-resolution multibeam bathymetric data, reveal possible tsunami impact on Bimini, the Florida Keys, and northern Cuba. Tsunamis caused by slope failures with terminal landslide velocity of 20 ms -1 will either dissipate while traveling through the Straits of Florida, or generate a maximum wave of 1.5 m at the Florida coast. Modeling a worst-case scenario with a calculated terminal landslide velocity generates a wave of 4.5 m height. The modeled margin collapse in southwestern Great Bahama Bank potentially has a high impact on northern Cuba, with wave heights between 3.3 to 9.5 m depending on the collapse velocity. The short distance and travel time from the source areas to densely populated coastal areas would make the Florida Keys and Miami vulnerable to such low-probability but high-impact events.

Response of the mid-latitude D-region ionosphere to the total solar eclipse of 22 July 2009 studied using VLF signals in South Korean peninsula

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Phanikumar, D. V.; Kwak, Y.-S.; Patra, A. K.; Maurya, A. K.; Singh, Rajesh; Park, S.-M.

2014-09-01

In this paper, we analyze VLF signals received at Busan to study the the D-region changes linked with the solar eclipse event of 22 July 2009 for very short (∼390 km) transmitter-receiver great circle path (TRGCP) during local noon time 00:36-03:13 UT (09:36-12:13 KST). The eclipse crossed south of Busan with a maximum obscuration of ∼84%. Observations clearly show a reduction of ∼6.2 dB in the VLF signal strength at the time of maximum solar obscuration (84% at 01:53 UT) as compared to those observed on the control days. Estimated values of change in Wait ionospheric parameters: reflection height (h‧) in km and inverse scale height parameter (β) in km-1 from Long Wave Propagation Capability (LWPC) model during the maximum eclipse phase as compared to unperturbed ionosphere are 7 km and 0.055 km-1, respectively. Moreover, the D-region electron density estimated from model computation shows 95% depletion in electron density at the height of ∼71 km. The reflection height is found to increase by ∼7 km in the D-region during the eclipse as compared to those on the control days, implying a depletion in the Lyman-α flux by a factor of ∼7. The present observations are discussed in the light of current understanding on the solar eclipse induced D-region dynamics.

Assessment of current effect on waves in a semi-enclosed basin

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Benetazzo, A.; Carniel, S.; Sclavo, M.; Bergamasco, A.

2012-04-01

The wave-current interaction process in the semi-enclosed Adriatic Sea is studied using the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system, which is used to exchange data fields between the ocean model ROMS (Regional Ocean Modeling System) and the wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore). The 2-way data transfer between circulation and wave models is synchronous with ROMS providing current fields, free surface elevation, and bathymetry to SWAN. In particular, the 3-D current profiles are averaged using a formulation that integrates the near-surface velocity over a depth controlled by the spectral mean wave number. This coupling procedure is carried out up to coastal areas by means of an offline grid nesting. The parent grid covers the whole Adriatic Sea and has a horizontal resolution of 2.0 km, whereas the child grid resolution increases to 0.5 km but it is limited to the northern Adriatic Sea (Gulf of Venice), where the current effect on waves is investigated. The most frequent winds blowing on the Adriatic Sea are the so-called Bora and Sirocco which cause high waves in the Adriatic Sea, although Bora waves are generally fetch-limited. In fact, Bora winds blow orthogonal to the main basin axis (approximately aligned with the NW-SE direction), while Sirocco has large spatial scale being a southeasterly wind. For the numerical simulations, the meteorological forcings are provided by the operational meteorological model COSMO-I7, which is the Italian version of the COSMO Model, a mesoscale model developed in the framework of the COSMO Consortium. During the analysis period, the simulated wind, current and wave are compared with observations at the ISMAR oceanographic tower located off the Venice littoral. Wave heights and sea surface winds are also compared with satellite-derived data. To account for the variability of sea states during a storm, the expected maximum individual wave height in a sea storm with a given history is also considered. During intense storms, the effect of coupling on wave heights is resulting in variations of the wave heights up to 15%, with some areas experiencing increase or decrease of wave spectral energy for opposite and following currents respectively. The study is part of the activities developed in the European Union (EU) funded FIELD_AC project (Fluxes, Interactions and Environment at the Land-ocean boundary. Downscaling, Assimilation and Coupling), which is conceived with the goal to better identify the most significant natural processes in coastal areas, and to address their impact on the coastal and nearshore dynamics by including them in a complete numerical prediction suite.

Display of historical and hypothetical tsunami on the coast of Sakhalin Island

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kostenko, Irina; Zaytsev, Andrey; Kurkin, Andrey; Yalciner, Ahmet

2014-05-01

Tsunami waves achieve the coast of the Sakhalin Island and their sources are located in the Japan Sea, in the Okhotsk Sea, in Kuril Islands region and in the Pacific Ocean. Study of tsunami generation characteristics and its propagation allows studying display of the tsunami on the various parts of the island coast. For this purpose the series of computational experiments of some historical tsunamis was carried out. Their sources located in Japan Sea and Kuril Islands region. The simulation results are compared with the observations. Analysis of all recorded historical tsunami on coast of Sakhalin Island was done. To identify the possible display of the tsunami on the coast of Sakhalin Island the series of computational experiments of hypothetical tsunamis was carried out. Their sources located in the Japan Sea and in the Okhotsk Sea. There were used hydrodynamic sources. There were used different parameters of sources (length, width, height, raising and lowering of sea level), which correspond to earthquakes of various magnitudes. The analysis of the results was carried out. Pictures of the distribution of maximum amplitudes from each tsunami were done. Areas of Okhotsk Sea, Japan Sea and offshore strip of Sakhalin Island with maximum tsunami amplitudes were defined. Graphs of the distribution of maximum tsunami wave heights along the coast of the Sakhalin Island were plotted. Based on shallow-water equation tsunami numerical code NAMI DANCE was used for numerical simulations. This work was supported by ASTARTE project.

Experimental modelling of wave amplification over irregular bathymetry for investigations of boulder transport by extreme wave events.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

O'Boyle, Louise; Whittaker, Trevor; Cox, Ronadh; Elsäßer, Björn

2017-04-01

During the winter of 2013-2014 the west coast of Ireland was exposed to 6 storms over a period of 8 weeks with wind speeds equating to hurricane categories 3 and 4. During this period, the largest significant wave height recorded at the Marine Institute M6 wave buoy, approximately 300km from the site, was 13.6m (on 26th January 2014). However, this may not be the largest sea state of that winter, because the buoy stopped logging on 30th January and therefore failed to capture the full winter period. During the February 12th 2014 "Darwin" storm, the Kinsale Energy Gas Platform off Ireland's south coast measured a wave height of 25 m, which remains the highest wave measured off Ireland's coasts[1]. Following these storms, significant dislocation and transportation of boulders and megagravel was observed on the Aran Islands, Co. Galway at elevations of up to 25m above the high water mark and distances up to 220 m inland including numerous clasts with masses >50t, and at least one megagravel block weighing >500t [2]. Clast movements of this magnitude would not have been predicted from the measured wave heights. This highlights a significant gap in our understanding of the relationships between storms and the coastal environment: how are storm waves amplified and modified by interactions with bathymetry? To gain further understanding of wave amplification, especially over steep and irregular bathymetry, we have designed Froude-scaled wave tank experiments using the 3D coastal wave basin facility at Queen's University Belfast. The basin is 18m long by 16m wide with wave generation by means of a 12m wide bank of 24 top hinged, force feedback, sector carrier wave paddles at one end. The basin is equipped with gravel beaches to dissipate wave energy on the remaining three sides, capable of absorbing up to 99% of the incident wave energy, to prevent unwanted reflections. Representative bathymetry for the Aran Islands is modelled in the basin based on a high resolution nearshore multibeam sonar survey. Water surface elevation is recorded using twin-wire resistance type wave probes along a shore-normal bathymetry transect as the waves shoal. Variations in significant wave height and maximum elevation are presented for both regular and irregular bathymetry and for a number of typical North Atlantic sea states. These results are significant for calibration of numerical wave propagation models over irregular bathymetry and for those seeking to understand the magnitude of nearshore extreme wave events. References [1] Met Éireann, 2014, Winter 2013/2014: Monthly Weather Bulletin, December issue, p. 1-5. http://www.met.ie/climate-ireland/weather-events/winterstorms13_14.pdf. [2] Cox, R. et. al., 2016, Movement of boulders and megagravel by storm waves Vol. 18, EGU2016-10535, 2016 EGU General Assembly 2016

Investigation of the relationship between hurricane waves and extreme runup

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Thompson, D. M.; Stockdon, H. F.

2006-12-01

In addition to storm surge, the elevation of wave-induced runup plays a significant role in forcing geomorphic change during extreme storms. Empirical formulations for extreme runup, defined as the 2% exceedence level, are dependent on some measure of significant offshore wave height. Accurate prediction of extreme runup, particularly during hurricanes when wave heights are large, depends on selecting the most appropriate measure of wave height that provides energy to the nearshore system. Using measurements from deep-water wave buoys results in an overprediction of runup elevation. Under storm forcing these large waves dissipate across the shelf through friction, whitecapping and depth-limited breaking before reaching the beach and forcing swash processes. The use of a local, shallow water wave height has been shown to provide a more accurate estimate of extreme runup elevation (Stockdon, et. al. 2006); however, a specific definition of this local wave height has yet to be defined. Using observations of nearshore waves from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers' Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck, NC during Hurricane Isabel, the most relevant measure of wave height for use in empirical runup parameterizations was examined. Spatial and temporal variability of the hurricane wave field, which made landfall on September 18, 2003, were modeled using SWAN. Comparisons with wave data from FRF gages and deep-water buoys operated by NOAA's National Data Buoy Center were used for model calibration. Various measures of local wave height (breaking, dissipation-based, etc.) were extracted from the model domain and used as input to the runup parameterizations. Video based observations of runup collected at the FRF during the storm were used to ground truth modeled values. Assessment of the most appropriate measure of wave height can be extended over a large area through comparisons to observations of storm- induced geomorphic change.

Wave attenuation in the shallows of San Francisco Bay

USGS Publications Warehouse

Lacy, Jessica R.; MacVean, Lissa J.

2016-01-01

Waves propagating over broad, gently-sloped shallows decrease in height due to frictional dissipation at the bed. We quantified wave-height evolution across 7 km of mudflat in San Pablo Bay (northern San Francisco Bay), an environment where tidal mixing prevents the formation of fluid mud. Wave height was measured along a cross shore transect (elevation range−2mto+0.45mMLLW) in winter 2011 and summer 2012. Wave height decreased more than 50% across the transect. The exponential decay coefficient λ was inversely related to depth squared (λ=6×10−4h−2). The physical roughness length scale kb, estimated from near-bed turbulence measurements, was 3.5×10−3 m in winter and 1.1×10−2 m in summer. Estimated wave friction factor fw determined from wave-height data suggests that bottom friction dominates dissipation at high Rew but not at low Rew. Predictions of near-shore wave height based on offshore wave height and a rough formulation for fw were quite accurate, with errors about half as great as those based on the smooth formulation for fw. Researchers often assume that the wave boundary layer is smooth for settings with fine-grained sediments. At this site, use of a smooth fw results in an underestimate of wave shear stress by a factor of 2 for typical waves and as much as 5 for more energetic waves. It also inadequately captures the effectiveness of the mudflats in protecting the shoreline through wave attenuation.

Rogue waves in a water tank: Experiments and modeling

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lechuga, Antonio

2013-04-01

Recently many rogue waves have been reported as the main cause of ship incidents on the sea. One of the main characteristics of rogue waves is its elusiveness: they present unexpectedly and disappear in the same wave. Some authors (Zakharov and al.2010) are attempting to find the probability of their appearances apart from studyingthe mechanism of the formation. As an effort on this topic we tried the generation of rogue waves in a water wave tank using a symmetric spectrum(Akhmediev et al. 2011) as input on the wave maker. The produced waves were clearly rogue waves with a rate (maximum wave height/ Significant wave height) of 2.33 and a kurtosis of 4.77 (Janssen 2003, Onorato 2006). These results were already presented (Lechuga 2012). Similar waves (in pattern aspect, but without being extreme waves) were described as crossing waves in a water tank(Shemer and Lichter1988). To go on further the next step has been to apply a theoretical model to the envelope of these waves. After some considerations the best model has been an analogue of the Ginzburg-Landau equation. This apparently amazing result is easily explained: We know that the Ginzburg-Landau model is related to some regular structures on the surface of a liquid and also in plasmas, electric and magnetic fields and other media. Another important characteristic of the model is that their solutions are invariants with respectto the translation group. The main aim of this presentation is to extract conclusions of the model and the comparison with the measured waves in the water tank.The nonlinear structure of waves and their regularity make suitable the use of the Ginzburg-Landau model to the envelope of generated waves in the tank,so giving us a powerful tool to cope with the results of our experiment.

Wave energy resource of Brazil: An analysis from 35 years of ERA-Interim reanalysis data

PubMed Central

Araújo, Alex Maurício

2017-01-01

This paper presents a characterization of the wave power resource and an analysis of the wave power output for three (AquaBuoy, Pelamis and Wave Dragon) different wave energy converters (WEC) over the Brazilian offshore. To do so it used a 35 years reanalysis database from the ERA-Interim project. Annual and seasonal statistical analyzes of significant height and energy period were performed, and the directional variability of the incident waves were evaluated. The wave power resource was characterized in terms of the statistical parameters of mean, maximum, 95th percentile and standard deviation, and in terms of the temporal variability coefficients COV, SV e MV. From these analyses, the total annual wave power resource available over the Brazilian offshore was estimated in 89.97 GW, with largest mean wave power of 20.63 kW/m in the southernmost part of the study area. The analysis of the three WEC was based in the annual wave energy output and in the capacity factor. The higher capacity factor was 21.85% for Pelamis device at the southern region of the study area. PMID:28817731

Wave energy resource of Brazil: An analysis from 35 years of ERA-Interim reanalysis data.

PubMed

Espindola, Rafael Luz; Araújo, Alex Maurício

2017-01-01

This paper presents a characterization of the wave power resource and an analysis of the wave power output for three (AquaBuoy, Pelamis and Wave Dragon) different wave energy converters (WEC) over the Brazilian offshore. To do so it used a 35 years reanalysis database from the ERA-Interim project. Annual and seasonal statistical analyzes of significant height and energy period were performed, and the directional variability of the incident waves were evaluated. The wave power resource was characterized in terms of the statistical parameters of mean, maximum, 95th percentile and standard deviation, and in terms of the temporal variability coefficients COV, SV e MV. From these analyses, the total annual wave power resource available over the Brazilian offshore was estimated in 89.97 GW, with largest mean wave power of 20.63 kW/m in the southernmost part of the study area. The analysis of the three WEC was based in the annual wave energy output and in the capacity factor. The higher capacity factor was 21.85% for Pelamis device at the southern region of the study area.

Simulation of coastal floodings during a typhoon event with the consideration of future sea-level rises.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Shu-Huei, Jhang; Chih-Chung, Wen; Dong-Jiing, Doong; Cheng-Han, Tsai

2017-04-01

Taiwan is an Island in the western Pacific Ocean and experienced more than 3 typhoons in a year. Typhoons bring intense rainfall, high waves, and storm surges, which often resulted in coastal flooding. The flooding can be aggravated by the sea level rise due to the global warming, which may subject Taiwan's coastal areas to more serious damage in the future than present. The objectives of this study are to investigate the flooding caused by typhoons in the Annan District, Tainan, a city on the southwest coast of Taiwan by numerical simulations, considering the effects of sea-level rises according to the level suggested by the 5th Assessment Report of IPCC (Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change) for 2050 and 2100, respectively. The simulations were carried out by using MIKE21 HD (a hydrodynamic model) and MIKE21 SW (a spectral wave model). In our simulation, we used an intense typhoon, named Soudelor, as our base typhoon, which made its landfall on the east coast of Taiwan in the summer of 2015, traveled through the width of the island, and exited the island to the north of Tainan. The reasons we pick this typhoon are that it passed near our objective area, wind field data for this typhoon are available, and we have well documented coastal wave and water level measurements during the passage of Typhoon Soudelor. We firstly used ECMWF (European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts) wind field data to reconstruct typhoon waves and storm surges for this typhoon by using coupled MIKE21 SW and MIKE21 HD in a regional model. The resultant simulated wave height and sea-level height matched satisfactorily with the measured data. The wave height and storm surge calculated by the regional model provided the boundary conditions for our fine-grid domain. Then different sea-level rises suggested by the IPCC were incorporated into the fine-grid model. Since river discharge due to intense rainfall has also to be considered for coastal flooding, our fine-grid models encompass the estuary of River Yanshui, and measured upstream river discharges were used to simulate the interactions among tide, current, and wave near the estuary of Yanshui River. Our preliminary results showed that with only the effect of rainwater discharge, the maximum surface level of the river during the storm near the estuary was 1.4 m, which is not higher than the river embankments. With the storm surge, the river level at the same location was 2.2 m. With the storm surge and sea-level rise, the maximum river levels near the estuary were 3.6 m and 3.9 m for 2050 and 2100 scenarios, respective. These levels were higher than the embankment height of 3 m. This showed that due to higher sea-level, the area near the estuary will be flooded.

Tsunami Risk Assessment Modelling in Chabahar Port, Iran

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Delavar, M. R.; Mohammadi, H.; Sharifi, M. A.; Pirooz, M. D.

2017-09-01

The well-known historical tsunami in the Makran Subduction Zone (MSZ) region was generated by the earthquake of November 28, 1945 in Makran Coast in the North of Oman Sea. This destructive tsunami killed over 4,000 people in Southern Pakistan and India, caused great loss of life and devastation along the coasts of Western India, Iran and Oman. According to the report of "Remembering the 1945 Makran Tsunami", compiled by the Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission (UNESCO/IOC), the maximum inundation of Chabahar port was 367 m toward the dry land, which had a height of 3.6 meters from the sea level. In addition, the maximum amount of inundation at Pasni (Pakistan) reached to 3 km from the coastline. For the two beaches of Gujarat (India) and Oman the maximum run-up height was 3 m from the sea level. In this paper, we first use Makran 1945 seismic parameters to simulate the tsunami in generation, propagation and inundation phases. The effect of tsunami on Chabahar port is simulated using the ComMIT model which is based on the Method of Splitting Tsunami (MOST). In this process the results are compared with the documented eyewitnesses and some reports from researchers for calibration and validation of the result. Next we have used the model to perform risk assessment for Chabahar port in the south of Iran with the worst case scenario of the tsunami. The simulated results showed that the tsunami waves will reach Chabahar coastline 11 minutes after generation and 9 minutes later, over 9.4 Km2 of the dry land will be flooded with maximum wave amplitude reaching up to 30 meters.

The 2004 Sumatra tsunami in the Southeastern Pacific Ocean: New Global Insight from Observations and Modeling

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Rabinovich, A. B.; Titov, V. V.; Moore, C. W.; Eblé, M. C.

2017-10-01

The 2004 Sumatra tsunami was an unprecedented global disaster measured throughout the world oceans. The present study focused on a region of the southeastern Pacific Ocean where the "westward" circumferentially propagating tsunami branch converged with the "eastward" branch, based on data from fortuitously placed Chilean DART 32401 and tide gauges along the coast of South America. By comparison of the tsunami and background spectra, we suppressed the influence of topography and reconstructed coastal "spectral ratios" that were in close agreement with a ratio at DART 32401 and spectral ratios in other oceans. Findings indicate that even remote tsunami records carry spectral source signatures ("birth-marks"). The 2004 tsunami waves were found to occupy the broad frequency band of 0.25-10 cph with the prominent ratio peak at period of 40 min related to the southern fast-slip source domain. This rupture "hot-spot" of ˜350 km was responsible for the global impact of the 2004 tsunami. Data from DART 32401 provided validation of model results: the simulated maximum tsunami wave height of 2.25 cm was a conservative approximation to the measured height of 2.05 cm; the computed tsunami travel time of 25 h 35 min to DART 32401, although 20 min earlier than the actual travel time, provided a favorable result in comparison with 24 h 25 min estimated from classical kinematic theory. The numerical simulations consistently reproduced the wave height changes observed along the coast of South America, including local amplification of tsunami waves at the northern stations of Arica (72 cm) and Callao (67 cm).

Nearshore Tsunami Inundation Model Validation: Toward Sediment Transport Applications

USGS Publications Warehouse

Apotsos, Alex; Buckley, Mark; Gelfenbaum, Guy; Jaffe, Bruce; Vatvani, Deepak

2011-01-01

Model predictions from a numerical model, Delft3D, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations are compared with analytical results and laboratory observations from seven tsunami-like benchmark experiments, and with field observations from the 26 December 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami. The model accurately predicts the magnitude and timing of the measured water levels and flow velocities, as well as the magnitude of the maximum inundation distance and run-up, for both breaking and non-breaking waves. The shock-capturing numerical scheme employed describes well the total decrease in wave height due to breaking, but does not reproduce the observed shoaling near the break point. The maximum water levels observed onshore near Kuala Meurisi, Sumatra, following the 26 December 2004 tsunami are well predicted given the uncertainty in the model setup. The good agreement between the model predictions and the analytical results and observations demonstrates that the numerical solution and wetting and drying methods employed are appropriate for modeling tsunami inundation for breaking and non-breaking long waves. Extension of the model to include sediment transport may be appropriate for long, non-breaking tsunami waves. Using available sediment transport formulations, the sediment deposit thickness at Kuala Meurisi is predicted generally within a factor of 2.

A novel traveling wave piezoelectric actuated tracked mobile robot utilizing friction effect

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wang, Liang; Shu, Chengyou; Jin, Jiamei; Zhang, Jianhui

2017-03-01

A novel traveling wave piezoelectric-actuated tracked mobile robot with potential application to robotic rovers was proposed and investigated in this study. The proposed tracked mobile robot is composed of a parallelogram-frame-structure piezoelectric transducer with four rings and a metal track. Utilizing the converse piezoelectric and friction effects, traveling waves were propagated in the rings and then the metal track was actuated by the piezoelectric transducer. Compared with traditional tracked mechanisms, the proposed tracked mobile robot has a simpler and more compact structure without lubricant, which eliminates the problem of lubricant volatilization and deflation, thus, it could be operated in the vacuum environment. Dynamic characteristics were simulated and measured to reveal the mechanism of actuating track of the piezoelectric transducer. Experimental investigations of the traveling wave piezoelectric-actuated tracked mobile robot were then carried out, and the results indicated that the robot prototype with a pair of exciting voltages of 460 Vpp is able to achieve a maximum velocity of 57 mm s-1 moving on the foam plate and possesses the obstacle crossing capability with a maximum height of 27 mm. The proposed tracked mobile robot exhibits potential to be the driving system of robotic rovers.

Role of Multiple Soliton Interactions in the Generation of Rogue Waves: The Modified Korteweg-de Vries Framework.

PubMed

Slunyaev, A V; Pelinovsky, E N

2016-11-18

The role of multiple soliton and breather interactions in the formation of very high waves is disclosed within the framework of the integrable modified Korteweg-de Vries (MKdV) equation. Optimal conditions for the focusing of many solitons are formulated explicitly. Namely, trains of ordered solitons with alternate polarities evolve to huge strongly localized transient waves. The focused wave amplitude is exactly the sum of the focusing soliton heights; the maximum wave inherits the polarity of the fastest soliton in the train. The focusing of several solitary waves or/and breathers may naturally occur in a soliton gas and will lead to rogue-wave-type dynamics; hence, it represents a new nonlinear mechanism of rogue wave generation. The discovered scenario depends crucially on the soliton polarities (phases), and is not taken into account by existing kinetic theories. The performance of the soliton mechanism of rogue wave generation is shown for the example of the focusing MKdV equation, when solitons possess "frozen" phases (certain polarities), though the approach is efficient in some other integrable systems which admit soliton and breather solutions.

Role of Multiple Soliton Interactions in the Generation of Rogue Waves: The Modified Korteweg-de Vries Framework

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Slunyaev, A. V.; Pelinovsky, E. N.

2016-11-01

The role of multiple soliton and breather interactions in the formation of very high waves is disclosed within the framework of the integrable modified Korteweg-de Vries (MKdV) equation. Optimal conditions for the focusing of many solitons are formulated explicitly. Namely, trains of ordered solitons with alternate polarities evolve to huge strongly localized transient waves. The focused wave amplitude is exactly the sum of the focusing soliton heights; the maximum wave inherits the polarity of the fastest soliton in the train. The focusing of several solitary waves or/and breathers may naturally occur in a soliton gas and will lead to rogue-wave-type dynamics; hence, it represents a new nonlinear mechanism of rogue wave generation. The discovered scenario depends crucially on the soliton polarities (phases), and is not taken into account by existing kinetic theories. The performance of the soliton mechanism of rogue wave generation is shown for the example of the focusing MKdV equation, when solitons possess "frozen" phases (certain polarities), though the approach is efficient in some other integrable systems which admit soliton and breather solutions.

Observations and a model of undertow over the inner continental shelf

USGS Publications Warehouse

Lentz, Steven J.; Fewings, Melanie; Howd, Peter; Fredericks, Janet; Hathaway, Kent

2008-01-01

Onshore volume transport (Stokes drift) due to surface gravity waves propagating toward the beach can result in a compensating Eulerian offshore flow in the surf zone referred to as undertow. Observed offshore flows indicate that wave-driven undertow extends well offshore of the surf zone, over the inner shelves of Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts, and North Carolina. Theoretical estimates of the wave-driven offshore transport from linear wave theory and observed wave characteristics account for 50% or more of the observed offshore transport variance in water depths between 5 and 12 m, and reproduce the observed dependence on wave height and water depth.During weak winds, wave-driven cross-shelf velocity profiles over the inner shelf have maximum offshore flow (1–6 cm s−1) and vertical shear near the surface and weak flow and shear in the lower half of the water column. The observed offshore flow profiles do not resemble the parabolic profiles with maximum flow at middepth observed within the surf zone. Instead, the vertical structure is similar to the Stokes drift velocity profile but with the opposite direction. This vertical structure is consistent with a dynamical balance between the Coriolis force associated with the offshore flow and an along-shelf “Hasselmann wave stress” due to the influence of the earth’s rotation on surface gravity waves. The close agreement between the observed and modeled profiles provides compelling evidence for the importance of the Hasselmann wave stress in forcing oceanic flows. Summer profiles are more vertically sheared than either winter profiles or model profiles, for reasons that remain unclear.

Evaluation of the wave measurement in a stormy sea by the Along-Track interferometry SAR

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kojima, S.

2015-12-01

NICT developed the along-track interferometry SAR (AT-InSAR) system to detect the running cars and ships and measure sea surface velocity in 2011. The preliminary experiments for the running truck and ship were performed and it confirmed that the system performance was satisfactory to its specifications. In addition, a method to estimate the wave height from the sea surface velocity measured by the AT-InSAR was developed. The preliminary wave height observation was performed in a calm sea, and it was confirmed that the wave height could be estimated from the measured sea surface velocity. The purpose of this study is to check the capability of the ocean waves observation in a stormy sea by the AT-InSAR. Therefore, the ocean wave observation was performed under the low atmospheric pressure. The observation area is the sea surface at 10 km off the coast of Kushiro, south-east to Hokaido, JAPAN on the 4th of March 2015. The wind speed was 8〜10m/s during the observation, and the significant wave height and period were 1.5m and 6.0s. The observation was performed in 2 directions and the accuracy of the estimation results were checked. The significant wave height and period measured by the AT-InSAR agreed with it measured by the wave gage located close to this observation area. In addition, it was confirmed that there were no irregular wave heights in the distribution of the estimated wave height. As a result, it became clear that the AT-InSAR could observe the wave height in a stormy sea.

Combining Probability Distributions of Wind Waves and Sea Level Variations to Assess Return Periods of Coastal Floods

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Leijala, U.; Bjorkqvist, J. V.; Pellikka, H.; Johansson, M. M.; Kahma, K. K.

2017-12-01

Predicting the behaviour of the joint effect of sea level and wind waves is of great significance due to the major impact of flooding events in densely populated coastal regions. As mean sea level rises, the effect of sea level variations accompanied by the waves will be even more harmful in the future. The main challenge when evaluating the effect of waves and sea level variations is that long time series of both variables rarely exist. Wave statistics are also highly location-dependent, thus requiring wave buoy measurements and/or high-resolution wave modelling. As an initial approximation of the joint effect, the variables may be treated as independent random variables, to achieve the probability distribution of their sum. We present results of a case study based on three probability distributions: 1) wave run-up constructed from individual wave buoy measurements, 2) short-term sea level variability based on tide gauge data, and 3) mean sea level projections based on up-to-date regional scenarios. The wave measurements were conducted during 2012-2014 on the coast of city of Helsinki located in the Gulf of Finland in the Baltic Sea. The short-term sea level distribution contains the last 30 years (1986-2015) of hourly data from Helsinki tide gauge, and the mean sea level projections are scenarios adjusted for the Gulf of Finland. Additionally, we present a sensitivity test based on six different theoretical wave height distributions representing different wave behaviour in relation to sea level variations. As these wave distributions are merged with one common sea level distribution, we can study how the different shapes of the wave height distribution affect the distribution of the sum, and which one of the components is dominating under different wave conditions. As an outcome of the method, we obtain a probability distribution of the maximum elevation of the continuous water mass, which enables a flexible tool for evaluating different risk levels in the current and future climate.

Calculating wave-generated bottom orbital velocities from surface-wave parameters

USGS Publications Warehouse

Wiberg, P.L.; Sherwood, C.R.

2008-01-01

Near-bed wave orbital velocities and shear stresses are important parameters in many sediment-transport and hydrodynamic models of the coastal ocean, estuaries, and lakes. Simple methods for estimating bottom orbital velocities from surface-wave statistics such as significant wave height and peak period often are inaccurate except in very shallow water. This paper briefly reviews approaches for estimating wave-generated bottom orbital velocities from near-bed velocity data, surface-wave spectra, and surface-wave parameters; MATLAB code for each approach is provided. Aspects of this problem have been discussed elsewhere. We add to this work by providing a method for using a general form of the parametric surface-wave spectrum to estimate bottom orbital velocity from significant wave height and peak period, investigating effects of spectral shape on bottom orbital velocity, comparing methods for calculating bottom orbital velocity against values determined from near-bed velocity measurements at two sites on the US east and west coasts, and considering the optimal representation of bottom orbital velocity for calculations of near-bed processes. Bottom orbital velocities calculated using near-bed velocity data, measured wave spectra, and parametric spectra for a site on the northern California shelf and one in the mid-Atlantic Bight compare quite well and are relatively insensitive to spectral shape except when bimodal waves are present with maximum energy at the higher-frequency peak. These conditions, which are most likely to occur at times when bottom orbital velocities are small, can be identified with our method as cases where the measured wave statistics are inconsistent with Donelan's modified form of the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) spectrum. We define the 'effective' forcing for wave-driven, near-bed processes as the product of the magnitude of forcing times its probability of occurrence, and conclude that different bottom orbital velocity statistics may be appropriate for different problems. ?? 2008 Elsevier Ltd.

Dual-mode E region plasma wave observations from Millstone Hill

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

del Pozo, C. F.; Foster, J. C.; St.-Maurice, J.-P.

1993-04-01

Observations and analysis of the unstable auroral E region during local afternoon to early morning hours, and modified two-stream waves as well as two kinds of waves associated with the turbulence created by such waves are identified. One of these types exhibits properties similar to those of type II waves reported in the literature, whereas the second type has a broader spectrum, is detected in all directions, and appears to be new. The onset of turbulence corresponds to an electric field threshold of the order of 20 m/Vm. The presence of an azimuthal asymmetry in both the threshold field and the observed phase velocities with systematically greater values is detected; they are attributed to the presence of a 50-m/s E-W neutral wind at E region heights. The maximum observed volume reflectivity for type I wave ranges exceeded 10 exp -11, and that of the secondaries was of the order of 20 dB smaller.

Physical Model Study of Wave Action in New Thomsen Harbor, Sitka, Alaska

DTIC Science & Technology

2008-02-01

approached from the southwest. DISCLAIMER: The contents of this report are not to be used for advertising , publication, or promotional purposes...Wave height and period for irregular wave conditions refer to Hm0 and Tp, respectively. For mono- chromatic waves, wave height is the actual height...sec, respectively. Plotted along with the Group 12 results are corresponding tests from Group 13 that used mono- chromatic waves. Looking only at

Changes in the extreme wave heights over the Baltic Sea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kudryavtseva, Nadia; Soomere, Tarmo

2017-04-01

Storms over the Baltic Sea and northwestern Europe have a large impact on the population, offshore industry, and shipping. The understanding of extreme events in sea wave heights and their change due to the climate change and variability is critical for assessment of flooding risks and coastal protection. The BACCII Assessment of Climate Change for the Baltic Sea Basin showed that the extreme events analysis of wind waves is currently not very well addressed, as well as satellite observations of the wave heights. Here we discuss the analysis of all existing satellite altimetry data over the Baltic Sea Basin regarding extremes in the wave heights. In this talk for the first time, we present an analysis of 100-yr return periods, fitted generalized Pareto and Weibull distributions, number, and frequency of extreme events in wave heights in the Baltic Sea measured by the multi-mission satellite altimetry. The data span more than 23 years and provide an excellent spatial coverage over the Baltic Sea, allowing to study in details spatial variations and changes in extreme wave heights. The analysis is based on an application of the Initial Distribution Method, Annual Maxima method and Peak-Over-Threshold approach to satellite altimetry data, all validated in comparison with in-situ wave height measurements. Here we show that the 100-yr return periods of wave heights show significant spatial changes over the Baltic Sea indicating a decrease in the southern part of the Baltic Sea and an increase in adjacent areas, which can significantly affect coast vulnerability. Here we compare the observed shift with storm track database data and discuss a spatial correlation and possible connection between the changes in the storm tracks over the Baltic Sea and the change in the extreme wave heights.

The shape and dynamics of the generation of the splash forms in single-phase systems after drop hitting

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Sochan, Agata; Beczek, Michał; Mazur, Rafał; RyŻak, Magdalena; Bieganowski, Andrzej

2018-02-01

The splash phenomenon is being increasingly explored with the use of modern measurement tools, including the high-speed cameras. Recording images at a rate of several thousand frames per second facilitates parameterization and description of the dynamics of splash phases. This paper describes the impact of a single drop of a liquid falling on the surface of the same liquid. Three single-phase liquid systems, i.e., water, petrol, and diesel fuel, were examined. The falling drops were characterized by different kinetic energy values depending on the height of the fall, which ranged from 0.1 to 7.0 m. Four forms, i.e., waves, crowns, semi-closed domes, and domes, were distinguished depending on the drop energy. The analysis of the recorded images facilitated determination of the static and dynamic parameters of each form, e.g., the maximum height of each splash form, the width of the splash form at its maximum height, and the rate of growth of the splash form. We, Re, Fr, and K numbers were determined for all analyzed liquid systems. On the basis of the obtained values of dimensionless numbers, the areas of occurrence of characteristic splash forms were separated.

An empirical determination of the effects of sea state bias on Seasat altimetry

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Born, G. H.; Richards, M. A.; Rosborough, G. W.

1982-01-01

A linear empirical model has been developed for the correction of sea state bias effects, in Seasat altimetry data altitude measurements, that are due to (1) electromagnetic bias caused by the fact that ocean wave troughs reflect the altimeter signal more strongly than the crests, shifting the apparent mean sea level toward the wave troughs, and (2) an independent instrument-related bias resulting from the inability of height corrections applied in the ground processor to compensate for simplifying assumptions made for the processor aboard Seasat. After applying appropriate corrections to the altimetry data, an empirical model for the sea state bias is obtained by differencing significant wave height and height measurements from coincident ground tracks. Height differences are minimized by solving for the coefficient of a linear relationship between height differences and wave height differences that minimize the height differences. In more than 50% of the 36 cases examined, 7% of the value of significant wave height should be subtracted for sea state bias correction.

Predicting the ocurrence probability of freak waves baed on buoy data and non-stationary extreme value models

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Tomas, A.; Menendez, M.; Mendez, F. J.; Coco, G.; Losada, I. J.

2012-04-01

In the last decades, freak or rogue waves have become an important topic in engineering and science. Forecasting the occurrence probability of freak waves is a challenge for oceanographers, engineers, physicists and statisticians. There are several mechanisms responsible for the formation of freak waves, and different theoretical formulations (primarily based on numerical models with simplifying assumption) have been proposed to predict the occurrence probability of freak wave in a sea state as a function of N (number of individual waves) and kurtosis (k). On the other hand, different attempts to parameterize k as a function of spectral parameters such as the Benjamin-Feir Index (BFI) and the directional spreading (Mori et al., 2011) have been proposed. The objective of this work is twofold: (1) develop a statistical model to describe the uncertainty of maxima individual wave height, Hmax, considering N and k as covariates; (2) obtain a predictive formulation to estimate k as a function of aggregated sea state spectral parameters. For both purposes, we use free surface measurements (more than 300,000 20-minutes sea states) from the Spanish deep water buoy network (Puertos del Estado, Spanish Ministry of Public Works). Non-stationary extreme value models are nowadays widely used to analyze the time-dependent or directional-dependent behavior of extreme values of geophysical variables such as significant wave height (Izaguirre et al., 2010). In this work, a Generalized Extreme Value (GEV) statistical model for the dimensionless maximum wave height (x=Hmax/Hs) in every sea state is used to assess the probability of freak waves. We allow the location, scale and shape parameters of the GEV distribution to vary as a function of k and N. The kurtosis-dependency is parameterized using third-order polynomials and the model is fitted using standard log-likelihood theory, obtaining a very good behavior to predict the occurrence probability of freak waves (x>2). Regarding the second objective of this work, we apply different algorithms using three spectral parameters (wave steepness, directional dispersion, frequential dispersion) as predictors, to estimate the probability density function of the kurtosis for a given sea state. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The authors thank to Puertos del Estado (Spanish Ministry of Public Works) for providing the free surface measurement database.

Experimental Studies on Wave Interactions of Partially Perforated Wall under Obliquely Incident Waves

PubMed Central

Lee, Jong-In; Kim, Young-Taek; Shin, Sungwon

2014-01-01

This study presents wave height distribution in terms of stem wave evolution phenomena on partially perforated wall structures through three-dimensional laboratory experiments. The plain and partially perforated walls were tested to understand their effects on the stem wave evolution under the monochromatic and random wave cases with the various wave conditions, incident angle (from 10 to 40 degrees), and configurations of front and side walls. The partially perforated wall reduced the relative wave heights more effectively compared to the plain wall structure. Partially perforated walls with side walls showed a better performance in terms of wave height reduction compared to the structure without the side wall. Moreover, the relative wave heights along the wall were relatively small when the relative chamber width is large, within the range of the chamber width in this study. The wave spectra showed a frequency dependency of the wave energy dissipation. In most cases, the existence of side wall is a more important factor than the porosity of the front wall in terms of the wave height reduction even if the partially perforated wall was still effective compared to the plain wall. PMID:25254260

Experimental studies on wave interactions of partially perforated wall under obliquely incident waves.

PubMed

Lee, Jong-In; Kim, Young-Taek; Shin, Sungwon

2014-01-01

This study presents wave height distribution in terms of stem wave evolution phenomena on partially perforated wall structures through three-dimensional laboratory experiments. The plain and partially perforated walls were tested to understand their effects on the stem wave evolution under the monochromatic and random wave cases with the various wave conditions, incident angle (from 10 to 40 degrees), and configurations of front and side walls. The partially perforated wall reduced the relative wave heights more effectively compared to the plain wall structure. Partially perforated walls with side walls showed a better performance in terms of wave height reduction compared to the structure without the side wall. Moreover, the relative wave heights along the wall were relatively small when the relative chamber width is large, within the range of the chamber width in this study. The wave spectra showed a frequency dependency of the wave energy dissipation. In most cases, the existence of side wall is a more important factor than the porosity of the front wall in terms of the wave height reduction even if the partially perforated wall was still effective compared to the plain wall.

Evidence of extreme storm events from coral boulder deposits on the southern coast of Hainan Island, China

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zhou, L.; Gao, S.

2017-12-01

The southern coast of Hainan Island in China is one of the most frequently hit areas of tropical cyclones in the Pacific Northwest regions. Long-term storm data are important to reconstruct past extreme wave events, for understanding present-day coastal vulnerability. However, the magnitude of storm and typhoon events in the historical period over the northwestern South China Sea is still poorly understood. A primary study was carried out to investigate into the characteristics of a carbonate boulder field found at the Xiaodonghai (XDH) site on the southern coast of Hainan Island, in order to derive the maximum spatial extent, wave height, and velocity of coastal flooding and to determine the type of extreme wave events responsible for the boulder distributions. We recorded the position, shape, size, and the long axis orientation of 1247 of the boulders, with the a-axes being between 0.52 and 3.76 m. A morphometric analysis of the boulders shows that they are distributed within 160 m of the reef edge, with an exponential fining trend shoreward. Numerical models are used to estimate the minimum wave height and minimum flow velocity required to move these boulders. Flow velocities of 1.76-14.73 m/s and storm wave height of 0.47-15.87 m are needed to displace the measured boulders deposited near the mean sea level. These values are consistent with the dataset of storm boulder transport at other sites in the Asia-Pacific region and local instrumental records. Overall, the carbonate boulder deposits at the XDH site implies that the area is exposed to giant storm waves capable of displacing the very large boulders observed here. The recurrence of a similar storm event in the future will have the potential to cause severe coastal flooding damage on this densely populated part of the low-lying coastlines of Hainan Island.

Geomorphic impact of the 16S 2015 tsunami event in the Coquimbo Bay (Northern Chile)

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Abad, Manuel; Izquierdo, Tatiana; Lock, Suan-lin; Rojas, Diego; Fritis, Eduardo

2017-04-01

On September 16, 2105 a Mw 8.3 earthquake occurred at 22:55 GTM with a focal depth of 23 km and an epicenter located 31.570°S, W 71.670°, in the Coquimbo Region (northern Chile). This event triggered a tsunami with wave heights of more than 6 m that caused damages and flooding in the northern Chilean coast, mainly in the cities of Tongoy and Coquimbo - La Serena. The vertical run-up shows an important saw-tooth like variation due to the sharp changes in the topography, specially towards both ends of the bay. The highest and more irregular values occurred in the South sector, that presents a higher topographic gradient, and progressively decrease towards the North were the topography is flatter. The horizontal flooding reached its maximum values in the bay fluvial valleys where the tsunami wave entered along the river channels. The waves, favored by the confining conditions, entered more than 950 m in the Elqui River mouth and almost 700 m in the Culebrón Stream. Coquimbo Bay comprises a wide and convex littoral zone of approximately 18 km long only interrupted by the mouths of the Elqui River and the Culebrón Stream where small saltmarshes have developed. According to the tide gauge data, the first wave reached the Coquimbo coast only 20 minutes after the earthquake with a maximum height of 0.85 m. 22 minutes later, a second wave arrived with a much higher height (4.3 m) causing the first damages on the littoral and the city. The last wave, the 4th one, occurred 35 minutes after the earthquake and was the highest reaching 4.68 m as well as the most damaging. Despite the existence of works that analyze the characteristics of this event, a more deep and thorough study is still needed of the tsunami geological record in the Coquimbo Bay where a wide variety of forms and deposits were preserved. The making of a geomorphological map has allowed us to differentiate the geological features related with the tsunamigenic event such as sand sheets and debris-boulder fields (tsunamites), littoral erosion scars developed on the saltmarshes, beaches and coastal dunes, erosive backwash channels, degraded wetlands, flooding lagoons or the appearance of new fluvial channels. This morpho-sedimentary assemblage, all together, has enabled us to characterize the conditions in which the tsunami occurred and to quantify it effects along this coastal zone as well their potential preservation.

Empirical Guidelines for Use of Irregular Wave Model to Estimate Nearshore Wave Height.

DTIC Science & Technology

1982-07-01

height, the easier to use tech- nique presented by McClenan (1975) was employed. The McClenan technique uti- lizes a monogram which was constructed from...the SPM equations and gives the same results. The inputs to the monogram technique are the period, the deep- water wave height, the deepwater wave

Rapid wave and storm surge warning system for tropical cyclones in Mexico

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Appendini, C. M.; Rosengaus, M.; Meza, R.; Camacho, V.

2015-12-01

The National Hurricane Center (NHC) in Miami, is responsible for the forecast of tropical cyclones in the North Atlantic and Eastern North Pacific basins. As such, Mexico, Central America and Caribbean countries depend on the information issued by the NHC related to the characteristics of a particular tropical cyclone and associated watch and warning areas. Despite waves and storm surge are important hazards for marine operations and coastal dwellings, their forecast is not part of the NHC responsibilities. This work presents a rapid wave and storm surge warning system based on 3100 synthetic tropical cyclones doing landfall in Mexico. Hydrodynamic and wave models were driven by the synthetic events to create a robust database composed of maximum envelops of wind speed, significant wave height and storm surge for each event. The results were incorporated into a forecast system that uses the NHC advisory to locate the synthetic events passing inside specified radiuses for the present and forecast position of the real event. Using limited computer resources, the system displays the information meeting the search criteria, and the forecaster can select specific events to generate the desired hazard map (i.e. wind, waves, and storm surge) based on the maximum envelop maps. This system was developed in a limited time frame to be operational in 2015 by the National Hurricane and Severe Storms Unit of the Mexican National Weather Service, and represents a pilot project for other countries in the region not covered by detailed storm surge and waves forecasts.

Comparison of two recent storm surge events based on results of field surveys

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Nakamura, Ryota; Shibayama, Tomoya; Mikami, Takahito; Esteban, Miguel; Takagi, Hiroshi; Maell, Martin; Iwamoto, Takumu

2017-10-01

This paper compares two different types of storm surge disaster based on field surveys. Two cases: a severe storm surge flood with its height of over 5 m due to Typhoon Haiyan (2013) in Philippine, and inundation of storm surge around Nemuro city in Hokkaido of Japan with its maximum surge height of 2.8 m caused by extra-tropical cyclone are taken as examples. For the case of the Typhoon Haiyan, buildings located in coastal region were severely affected due to a rapidly increase in ocean surface. The non-engineering buildings were partially or completely destroyed due to their debris transported to an inner bay region. In fact, several previous reports indicated two unique features, bore-like wave and remarkably high speed currents. These characteristics of the storm surge may contribute to a wide-spread corruption for the buildings around the affected region. Furthermore, in the region where the surge height was nearly 3 m, the wooden houses were completely or partially destroyed. On the other hand, in Nemuro city, a degree of suffering in human and facility caused by the storm surge is minor. There was almost no partially destroyed residential houses even though the height of storm surge reached nearly 2.8 m. An observation in the tide station in Nemuro indicated that this was a usual type of storm surge, which showed a gradual increase of sea level height in several hours without possessing the unique characteristics like Typhoon Haiyan. As a result, not only the height of storm surge but also the robustness of the buildings and characteristics of storm surge, such as bore like wave and strong currents, determined the existent of devastation in coastal regions.

Small-scale open ocean currents have large effects on wind wave heights

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ardhuin, Fabrice; Gille, Sarah T.; Menemenlis, Dimitris; Rocha, Cesar B.; Rascle, Nicolas; Chapron, Bertrand; Gula, Jonathan; Molemaker, Jeroen

2017-06-01

Tidal currents and large-scale oceanic currents are known to modify ocean wave properties, causing extreme sea states that are a hazard to navigation. Recent advances in the understanding and modeling capability of open ocean currents have revealed the ubiquitous presence of eddies, fronts, and filaments at scales 10-100 km. Based on realistic numerical models, we show that these structures can be the main source of variability in significant wave heights at scales less than 200 km, including important variations down to 10 km. Model results are consistent with wave height variations along satellite altimeter tracks, resolved at scales larger than 50 km. The spectrum of significant wave heights is found to be of the order of 70>>2/>(g2>>2>) times the current spectrum, where >> is the spatially averaged significant wave height, >> is the energy-averaged period, and g is the gravity acceleration. This variability induced by currents has been largely overlooked in spite of its relevance for extreme wave heights and remote sensing.