Data on nearshore wave process and surficial beach deposits, central Tamil Nadu coast, India.

PubMed

Joevivek, V; Chandrasekar, N

2017-08-01

The chronicles of nearshore morphology and surficial beach deposits provide valuable information about the nature of the beach condition and the depositional environment. It imparts an understanding about the spatial and temporal relationship of nearshore waves and its influence over the distribution of beach sediments. This article contains data about wave and sediment dynamics of the ten sandy beaches along the central Tamil Nadu coast, India. This present dataset comprises nearshore wave parameters, breaker wave type, beach morphodynamic state, grain size distribution and weight percentage of heavy and light mineral distribution. The dataset will figure out the beach morphology and hydrodynamic condition with respect to the different monsoonal season. This will act as a field reference to realize the coastal dynamics in an open sea condition. The nearshore entities were obtained from the intensive field survey between January 2011 and December 2011, while characteristics of beach sediments are examined by the chemical process in the laboratory environment.

Wave Glider Monitoring of Sediment Transport and Dredge Plumes in a Shallow Marine Sandbank Environment.

PubMed

Van Lancker, Vera; Baeye, Matthias

2015-01-01

As human pressure on the marine environment increases, safeguarding healthy and productive seas increasingly necessitates integrated, time- and cost-effective environmental monitoring. Employment of a Wave Glider proved very useful for the study of sediment transport in a shallow sandbank area in the Belgian part of the North Sea. During 22 days, data on surface and water-column currents and turbidity were recorded along 39 loops around an aggregate-extraction site. Correlation with wave and tidal-amplitude data allowed the quantification of current- and wave-induced advection and resuspension, important background information to assess dredging impacts. Important anomalies in suspended particulate matter concentrations in the water column suggested dredging-induced overflow of sediments in the near field (i.e., dynamic plume), and settling of finer-grained material in the far field (i.e., passive plume). Capturing the latter is a successful outcome to this experiment, since the location of dispersion and settling of a passive plume is highly dependent on the ruling hydro-meteorological conditions and thus difficult to predict. Deposition of the observed sediment plumes may cause habitat changes in the long-term.

Spatial and temporal correlation between beach and wave processes: implications for bar-berm sediment transition

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Joevivek, V.; Chandrasekar, N.; Saravanan, S.; Anandakumar, H.; Thanushkodi, K.; Suguna, N.; Jaya, J.

2018-06-01

Investigation of a beach and its wave conditions is highly requisite for understanding the physical processes in a coast. This study composes spatial and temporal correlation between beach and nearshore processes along the extensive sandy beach of Nagapattinam coast, southeast peninsular India. The data collection includes beach profile, wave data, and intertidal sediment samples for 2 years from January 2011 to January 2013. The field data revealed significant variability in beach and wave morphology during the northeast (NE) and southwest (SW) monsoon. However, the beach has been stabilized by the reworking of sediment distribution during the calm period. The changes in grain sorting and longshore sediment transport serve as a clear evidence of the sediment migration that persevered between foreshore and nearshore regions. The Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis and Canonical Correlation Analysis (CCA) were utilized to investigate the spatial and temporal linkages between beach and nearshore criterions. The outcome of the multivariate analysis unveiled that the seasonal variations in the wave climate tends to influence the bar-berm sediment transition that is discerned in the coast.

Sedimentation Waves on the Martian North Polar Cap: Analogy with Megadunes in Antarctica

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Herny, C.; Masse, M.; Bourgeois, O.; Carpy, S.; Le Mouelic, S.; Appéré, T.; Smith, I. B.; Spiga, A.; Perret, L.; Rodriguez, S.; Piquet, T.; Gaudin, D.; Le Menn, E.

2014-12-01

Complex feedbacks between katabatic winds and the cryosphere may lead to the development of sedimentation waves at the surface of ice sheets. These have been first described and named megadunes in Antarctica. Here we use topographic data, optical images, spectroscopic data and radar soundings, acquired by Mars orbiters, to show that the surface of the Martian North Polar Cap displays two superimposed sets of sedimentation waves with differing wavelengths. These sedimentation waves grow and migrate upwind in response to the development of periodic accumulation/ablation patterns controlled by katabatic winds. They have similarities with Antarctic megadunes regarding their surface morphology, texture, grain size, and internal stratigraphic architecture. Based on this analogy, we are currently developing a model of ice/wind interaction at the surface of ice sheets. In Antarctica the accumulation processes on megadunes fields is generally attributed to the wind-blown snow transport while on sedimentation waves of the North Polar Cap of Mars the accumulation seems to be dominated by sublimation/condensation processes at the surface. The model is designed to explore the implication of the water vapor mass transfer and heat transfer on the development of sedimentation waves both on Mars and Earth.

Conductivity dependence of seismoelectric wave phenomena in fluid-saturated sediments

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Block, Gareth I.; Harris, John G.

2006-01-01

Seismoelectric phenomena in sediments arise from acoustic wave-induced fluid motion in the pore space, which perturbs the electrostatic equilibrium of the electric double layer on the grain surfaces. Experimental techniques and the apparatus built to study the conductivity dependence of the electrokinetic (EK) effect are described, and outcomes for studies in loose glass microspheres and medium-grain sand are presented. By varying the NaCl concentration in the pore fluid, we measured the conductivity dependence of two kinds of EK behavior: (1) the electric fields generated within the samples by the passage of transmitted acoustic waves and (2) the electromagnetic waves produced at the fluid-sediment interface by the incident acoustic wave. Both phenomena are caused by relative fluid motion in the sediment pores; this feature is characteristic of poroelastic (Biot) media but is not predicted by either viscoelastic fluid or solid models. A model of plane wave reflection from a fluid-sediment interface using EK-Biot theory leads to theoretical predictions that compare well to the experimental data for both loose glass microspheres and medium-grain sand.

Characterisation of physical environmental factors on an intertidal sandflat, Manukau Harbour, New Zealand

USGS Publications Warehouse

Bell, R.G.; Hume, T.M.; Dolphin, T.J.; Green, M.O.; Walters, R.A.

1997-01-01

Physical environmental factors, including sediment characteristics, inundation time, tidal currents and wind waves, likely to influence the structure of the benthic community at meso-scales (1-100 m) were characterised for a sandflat off Wiroa Island (Manukau Harbour, New Zealand). In a 500 x 250 m study site, sediment characteristics and bed topography were mostly homogenous apart from patches of low-relief ridges and runnels. Field measurements and hydrodynamic modelling portray a complex picture of sediment or particulate transport on the intertidal flat, involving interactions between the larger scale tidal processes and the smaller scale wave dynamics (1-4 s; 1-15 m). Peak tidal currents in isolation are incapable of eroding bottom sediments, but in combination with near-bed orbital currents generated by only very small wind waves, sediment transport can be initiated. Work done on the bed integrated over an entire tidal cycle by prevailing wind waves is greatest on the elevated and flatter slopes of the study site, where waves shoal over a wider surf zone and water depths remain shallow e enough for wave-orbital currents to disturb the bed. The study also provided physical descriptors quantifying static and hydrodynamic (tidal and wave) factors which were used in companion studies on ecological spatial modelling of bivalve distributions and micro-scale sediment reworking and transport.

The influence of sea-level rise on fringing reef sediment dynamics: field observations and numerical modeling

USGS Publications Warehouse

Storlazzi, Curt D.; Field, Michael E.; Elias, Edwin; Presto, M. Katherine

2011-01-01

While most climate projections suggest that sea level may rise on the order of 0.5-1.0 m by 2100, it is not clear how fluid flow and sediment transport on fringing reefs might change in response to this rapid sea-level rise. Field observations and numerical modeling suggest that an increase in water depth on the order of 0.5-1.0 m on a fringing reef flat would result in larger significant wave heights and wave-driven shear stresses, which, in turn, would result in an increase in both the size and quantity of sediment that can be resuspended from the seabed or eroded from coastal plain deposits. Greater wave- and wind-driven currents would develop on the reef flat with increasing water depth, increasing the offshore flux of water and sediment from the inner reef flat to the outer reef flat and fore reef where coral growth is typically greatest.

The numerical calculation of hydrological processes in the coastal zone of the Black Sea region in the city of Poti

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Saghinadze, Ivane; Pkhakadze, Manana

2016-04-01

(The article was published with support of the Sh. Rustaveli National Science Foundation) The serious environmental problems started in Poti after transfer of the main flow of the river Rioni to the north. As a result the flooding of the city stopped, but the reduction of water consumption in the city channel, caused a decrease of the sediments carried away by the river, what leads to coastal erosion. The coast changes are connected with the movement of the waves and currents in the coastal part of the sea. In the paper, the three-dimensional mathematical model of sediment transport and coastal zone lithodynamics is developed. The finite element formulations for the problems of wave modes, coastal currents, sediment transport and evolution of the coastal zone of the sea, are given. The numerical algorithms, implemented in the form of software. Programs are allowing to bring the solutions of the tasks to numerical results. The numerical modeling was developed in three stages. In the first stage the topography of the coast and the initial geometry of the structures are considered as an input parameters. Then, coastal wave field is calculated for the conditions prescribed in the initial wave. In the second stage, the calculated wave field is used to estimate the spatial distribution of the radiation stresses near-bottom orbital velocity. In the third stage the coastal wave fields and flow fields are used in the sub-models of sediment transport and changes in the topography of the coast. In the numerical solution of basic equations of motion of the waves, coastal currents and changes in sea bottom topography we use: finite element, finite difference methods and the method of upper relaxation, Crank-Nicolson scheme. As an example, we are giving the results of research of the wave regime in the coastal area of the city of Poti (700X600m) adjacent to the port of Poti. The bottom profile, in this area is rather complicated. During the calculations of the average rise of sea level, 0.1m was taken as the initial value, which corresponds to the actual conditions The calculations have found that in the excitement, the sediment transport rates at a depth of 10-15m are almost zero. The maximum value of the velocity of sediment transport change within 0.006-0.0065m2/s.In the case of the western waves it is essential for longshore sediment transport directions, which varies in the range 0.0015-0.0022m2/s. The rate of sediment transport perpendicular to the bank in this case is irrelevant, and their maximum values in the range 0.00001-0.000017m2/s. Changes in the water depth varies from -0.25 to 0.29m. The rate of coastal erosion south of the port of 8-10 m/year.

Contribution of wave-induced liquefaction in triggering hyperpycnal flows in Yellow River Estuary

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Liu, X.; Jia, Y.

2017-12-01

Hyperpycnal flows, driven mainly by the gravity of near-bed negatively buoyant layers, are one of the most important processes for moving marine sediment across the earth. The issue of hyperpycnal flows existing in marine environment has drawn increasing scholars' attention since that was observed in situ off the Yellow River estuary in the 1980s. Most researches maintain that hyperpycnal flows in the Yellow River estuary are caused by the high-concentration sediments discharged from the Yellow River into sea, however, other mechanisms have been discounted since the sediment input from the river has been significantly changed due to climate and anthropogenic change. Here we demonstrate that wave-seabed interactions can generate hyperpycnal flows, without river input, by sediment flux convergence above an originally consolidated seabed. Using physical model experiments and multi-sensor field measurements, we characterize the composition-dependent liquefaction properties of the sediment due to wave-induced pore water pressure accumulation. This allows quantification of attenuation of sediment threshold velocity and critical shear stress (predominant variables in transport mechanics) during the liquefaction under waves. Parameterising the wave-seabed interactions in a new concept model shows that high waves propagating over the seabed sediment can act as a scarifier plough remoulding the seabed sediment. This contributes to marine hyperpycnal flows as the sediment is quickly resuspended under accumulating attenuation in strength. Therefore, the development of more integrative numerical models could supply realistic predictions of marine record in response to rising magnitude and frequency of storms.

The Effect of the Leeuwin Current on Offshore Surface Gravity Waves in Southwest Western Australia

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wandres, Moritz; Wijeratne, E. M. S.; Cosoli, Simone; Pattiaratchi, Charitha

2017-11-01

The knowledge of regional wave regimes is critical for coastal zone planning, protection, and management. In this study, the influence of the offshore current regime on surface gravity waves on the southwest Western Australian (SWWA) continental shelf was examined. This was achieved by coupling the three dimensional, free surface, terrain-following hydrodynamic Regional Ocean Modelling System (ROMS) and the third generation wave model Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) using the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-WaveSediment Transport (COAWST) model. Different representative states of the Leeuwin Current (LC), a strong pole-ward flowing boundary current with a persistent eddy field along the SWWA shelf edge were simulated and used to investigate their influence on different large wave events. The coupled wave-current simulations were compared to wave only simulations, which represented scenarios in the absence of a background current field. Results showed that the LC and the eddy field significantly impact SWWA waves. Significant wave heights increased (decreased) when currents were opposing (aligning with) the incoming wave directions. During a fully developed LC system significant wave heights were altered by up to ±25% and wave directions by up to ±20°. The change in wave direction indicates that the LC may modify nearshore wave dynamics and consequently alter sediment patterns. Operational regional wave forecasts and hindcasts may give flawed predictions if wave-current interaction is not properly accounted for.

Sediment transport and mixing depth on a coral reef sand apron

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Vila-Concejo, Ana; Harris, Daniel L.; Power, Hannah E.; Shannon, Amelia M.; Webster, Jody M.

2014-10-01

This paper investigates the mechanics of sediment transport on a subtidal sand apron located on a coral reef environment. In this environment 100% of the sediment is carbonate bioclasts generated in situ. The sand apron is located on the back reef and only affected by waves during high tides. It is commonly accepted in the literature that sand aprons are features that prograde lagoonwards and that most of the progradation occurs during high-energy events. Measurements of water depths, waves, currents and near bed suspended sediment concentrations (all at 10 Hz) on the sand apron were undertaken over a nine day intensive field campaign over both spring and neap tides; waves and tides were also measured in the lagoon. The topography and bathymetry of the sand apron were measured and mixing depth was obtained on three transects using depth of disturbance rods. We found that sediment transport on sand aprons is not solely restricted to high-energy events but occurs on a daily basis during spring tides. The main factor controlling the sediment transport was the water depth above the bed, with depths of 2-2.3 m allowing waves to promote the most sediment transport. This corresponds to a depth over the reef crest of 1.6-1.9 m. The second most important control was waves; transport was observed when Hs on the apron was 0.1 m or greater. In contrast, current magnitude was not a controlling mechanism for sediment entrainment but did affect sediment transport. The morphology of the sand apron was shown to affect the direction of currents with the currents also expected to influence the morphology of the sand apron. The currents measured during this field campaign were aligned with a shallow channel in the sand apron. Mixing depths were small (< 2.5 cm) yet they were larger than the values predicted by empirical formulae for gentle siliciclastic ocean beaches.

Wave Glider Monitoring of Sediment Transport and Dredge Plumes in a Shallow Marine Sandbank Environment

PubMed Central

Van Lancker, Vera; Baeye, Matthias

2015-01-01

As human pressure on the marine environment increases, safeguarding healthy and productive seas increasingly necessitates integrated, time- and cost-effective environmental monitoring. Employment of a Wave Glider proved very useful for the study of sediment transport in a shallow sandbank area in the Belgian part of the North Sea. During 22 days, data on surface and water-column currents and turbidity were recorded along 39 loops around an aggregate-extraction site. Correlation with wave and tidal-amplitude data allowed the quantification of current- and wave-induced advection and resuspension, important background information to assess dredging impacts. Important anomalies in suspended particulate matter concentrations in the water column suggested dredging-induced overflow of sediments in the near field (i.e., dynamic plume), and settling of finer-grained material in the far field (i.e., passive plume). Capturing the latter is a successful outcome to this experiment, since the location of dispersion and settling of a passive plume is highly dependent on the ruling hydro-meteorological conditions and thus difficult to predict. Deposition of the observed sediment plumes may cause habitat changes in the long-term. PMID:26070156

The role of Internal Solitary Waves on deep-water sedimentary processes: the case of up-slope migrating sediment waves off the Messina Strait.

PubMed

Droghei, R; Falcini, F; Casalbore, D; Martorelli, E; Mosetti, R; Sannino, G; Santoleri, R; Chiocci, F L

2016-11-03

Subaqueous, asymmetric sand waves are typically observed in marine channel/canyon systems, tidal environments, and continental slopes exposed to strong currents, where they are formed by current shear resulting from a dominant unidirectional flow. However, sand-wave fields may be readily observed in marine environments where no such current exists; the physical processes driving their formation are enigmatic or not well understood. We propose that internal solitary waves (ISWs) induced by tides can produce an effective, unidirectional boundary "current" that forms asymmetric sand waves. We test this idea by examining a sand-wave field off the Messina Strait, where we hypothesize that ISWs formed at the interface between intermediate and surface waters are refracted by topography. Hence, we argue that the deflected pattern (i.e., the depth-dependent orientation) of the sand-wave field is due to refraction of such ISWs. Combining field observations and numerical modelling, we show that ISWs can account for three key features: ISWs produce fluid velocities capable of mobilizing bottom sediments; the predicted refraction pattern resulting from the interaction of ISWs with bottom topography matches the observed deflection of the sand waves; and predicted migration rates of sand waves match empirical estimates. This work shows how ISWs may contribute to sculpting the structure of continental margins and it represents a promising link between the geological and oceanographic communities.

The role of Internal Solitary Waves on deep-water sedimentary processes: the case of up-slope migrating sediment waves off the Messina Strait

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Droghei, R.; Falcini, F.; Casalbore, D.; Martorelli, E.; Mosetti, R.; Sannino, G.; Santoleri, R.; Chiocci, F. L.

2016-11-01

Subaqueous, asymmetric sand waves are typically observed in marine channel/canyon systems, tidal environments, and continental slopes exposed to strong currents, where they are formed by current shear resulting from a dominant unidirectional flow. However, sand-wave fields may be readily observed in marine environments where no such current exists; the physical processes driving their formation are enigmatic or not well understood. We propose that internal solitary waves (ISWs) induced by tides can produce an effective, unidirectional boundary “current” that forms asymmetric sand waves. We test this idea by examining a sand-wave field off the Messina Strait, where we hypothesize that ISWs formed at the interface between intermediate and surface waters are refracted by topography. Hence, we argue that the deflected pattern (i.e., the depth-dependent orientation) of the sand-wave field is due to refraction of such ISWs. Combining field observations and numerical modelling, we show that ISWs can account for three key features: ISWs produce fluid velocities capable of mobilizing bottom sediments; the predicted refraction pattern resulting from the interaction of ISWs with bottom topography matches the observed deflection of the sand waves; and predicted migration rates of sand waves match empirical estimates. This work shows how ISWs may contribute to sculpting the structure of continental margins and it represents a promising link between the geological and oceanographic communities.

Ship Shoal as a prospective borrow site for barrier island restoration, coastal south-central Louisiana, Usa: Numerical wave modeling and field measurements of hydrodynamics and sediment transport

USGS Publications Warehouse

Stone, G.W.; Pepper, D.A.; Xu, Jie; Zhang, X.

2004-01-01

Ship Shoal, a transgressive sand body located at the 10 m isobath off south-central Louisiana, is deemed a potential sand source for restoration along the rapidly eroding Isles Dernieres barrier chain and possibly other sites in Louisiana. Through numerical wave modeling we evaluate the potential response of mining Ship Shoal on the wave field. During severe and strong storms, waves break seaward of the western flank of Ship Shoal. Therefore, removal of Ship Shoal (approximately 1.1 billion m3) causes a maximum increase of the significant wave height by 90%-100% and 40%-50% over the shoal and directly adjacent to the lee of the complex for two strong storm scenarios. During weak storms and fair weather conditions, waves do not break over Ship Shoal. The degree of increase in significant wave height due to shoal removal is considerably smaller, only 10%-20% on the west part of the shoal. Within the context of increasing nearshore wave energy levels, removal of the shoal is not significant enough to cause increased erosion along the Isles Dernieres. Wave approach direction exerts significant control on the wave climate leeward of Ship Shoal for stronger storms, but not weak storms or fairweather. Instrumentation deployed at the shoal allowed comparison of measured wave heights with numerically derived wave heights using STWAVE. Correlation coefficients are high in virtually all comparisons indicating the capability of the model to simulate wave behavior satisfactorily at the shoal. Directional waves, currents and sediment transport were measured during winter storms associated with frontal passages using three bottom-mounted arrays deployed on the seaward and landward sides of Ship Shoal (November, 1998-January, 1999). Episodic increases in wave height, mean and oscillatory current speed, shear velocity, and sediment transport rates, associated with recurrent cold front passages, were measured. Dissipation mechanisms included both breaking and bottom friction due to variable depths across the shoal crest and variable wave amplitudes during storms and fair-weather. Arctic surge fronts were associated with southerly storm waves, and southwesterly to westerly currents and sediment transport. Migrating cyclonic fronts generated northerly swell that transformed into southerly sea, and currents and sediment transport that were southeasterly overall. Waves were 36% higher and 9% longer on the seaward side of the shoal, whereas mean currents were 10% stronger landward, where they were directed onshore, in contrast to the offshore site, where seaward currents predominated. Sediment transport initiated by cold fronts was generally directed southeasterly to southwesterly at the offshore site, and southerly to westerly at the nearshore site. The data suggest that both cold fronts and the shoal, exert significant influences on regional hydrodynamics and sediment transport.

Numerical Modeling of Geomorphic Change on Sandy Coasts as a Function of Changing Wave Climate

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Adams, P. N.; McNamara, D.; Murray, A. B.; Lovering, J.

2009-12-01

Climate change is expected to affect sandy coast geomorphology through two principal mechanisms: (1) sea level rise, which affects cross-shore sediment transport tending to drive shoreline retreat, and (2) alteration of statistical distributions in ocean storm wave climate (deep water wave height, period, and direction), which affects longshore sediment transport gradients that result in shoreline erosion and accretion. To address potential climate change-driven effects on longshore sediment transport gradients, we are developing techniques to link various numerical models of wave transformation with several different longshore sediment transport formulae in accordance with the Community Surface Dynamics Modeling System (CSDMS) project. Results of the various wave transformation models are compared to field observations of cross-shelf wave transformation along the North Florida Atlantic coast for purposes of model verification and calibration. Initial comparisons between wave-transformation methods (assumption of shore-parallel contours, simple wave ray tracing, and the SWAN spectral wave model) on artificially constructed continental shelves reveal an increasing discrepancy of results for increasing complexity of shelf bathymetry. When the more advanced SWAN spectral wave model is coupled with a simple CERC-type formulation of longshore sediment transport and applied to a real coast with complex offshore shoals (Cape Canaveral region of the North Florida Atlantic Coast), the patterns of erosion and accretion agree with results of the simplest wave-propagation models for some wave conditions, but disagree in others. Model simulations in which wave height and period are held constant show that locations of divergence and convergence of sediment flux shift with deep water wave-approach angle in ways that would not always be predicted using less sophisticated wave propagation models. Thus, predicting long-term local shoreline change on actual coastlines featuring complex bathymetry requires the extra computational effort to run the more advanced model over a wide range of wave conditions.

The role of Internal Solitary Waves on deep-water sedimentary processes: the case of up-slope migrating sediment waves off the Messina Strait

PubMed Central

Droghei, R.; Falcini, F.; Casalbore, D.; Martorelli, E.; Mosetti, R.; Sannino, G.; Santoleri, R.; Chiocci, F. L.

2016-01-01

Subaqueous, asymmetric sand waves are typically observed in marine channel/canyon systems, tidal environments, and continental slopes exposed to strong currents, where they are formed by current shear resulting from a dominant unidirectional flow. However, sand-wave fields may be readily observed in marine environments where no such current exists; the physical processes driving their formation are enigmatic or not well understood. We propose that internal solitary waves (ISWs) induced by tides can produce an effective, unidirectional boundary “current” that forms asymmetric sand waves. We test this idea by examining a sand-wave field off the Messina Strait, where we hypothesize that ISWs formed at the interface between intermediate and surface waters are refracted by topography. Hence, we argue that the deflected pattern (i.e., the depth-dependent orientation) of the sand-wave field is due to refraction of such ISWs. Combining field observations and numerical modelling, we show that ISWs can account for three key features: ISWs produce fluid velocities capable of mobilizing bottom sediments; the predicted refraction pattern resulting from the interaction of ISWs with bottom topography matches the observed deflection of the sand waves; and predicted migration rates of sand waves match empirical estimates. This work shows how ISWs may contribute to sculpting the structure of continental margins and it represents a promising link between the geological and oceanographic communities. PMID:27808239

Investigation of hurricane Ivan using the coupled ocean-atmosphere-wave-sediment transport (COAWST) model

USGS Publications Warehouse

Zambon, Joseph B.; He, Ruoying; Warner, John C.

2014-01-01

The coupled ocean–atmosphere–wave–sediment transport (COAWST) model is used to hindcast Hurricane Ivan (2004), an extremely intense tropical cyclone (TC) translating through the Gulf of Mexico. Sensitivity experiments with increasing complexity in ocean–atmosphere–wave coupled exchange processes are performed to assess the impacts of coupling on the predictions of the atmosphere, ocean, and wave environments during the occurrence of a TC. Modest improvement in track but significant improvement in intensity are found when using the fully atmosphere–ocean-wave coupled configuration versus uncoupled (e.g., standalone atmosphere, ocean, or wave) model simulations. Surface wave fields generated in the fully coupled configuration also demonstrates good agreement with in situ buoy measurements. Coupled and uncoupled model-simulated sea surface temperature (SST) fields are compared with both in situ and remote observations. Detailed heat budget analysis reveals that the mixed layer temperature cooling in the deep ocean (on the shelf) is caused primarily by advection (equally by advection and diffusion).

Dispersal and transport of river sediment on the Catalan Shelf (NW Mediterranean Sea).

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Grifoll, Manel; Gracia, Vicente; Espino, Manuel; Sánchez-Arcilla, Agustín

2014-05-01

A three-dimensional coupled hydrodynamics-sediment transport model for the Catalan shelf (NW Mediterranean Sea) is implemented and used to represent the fluvial sediment transport and depositional patterns. The modelling system COAWST (Warner et al., 2010) allows to exchange field from the water circulation model ROMS and the wave model SWAN including combined wave-current bed stress and both sediment transport mechanisms: bed and suspended load. Two rivers surrounding Barcelona harbour are considered in the numerical experiments. Different temporal and spatial scales are modelled in order to evaluate physical mechanisms such as: fine deposits formation in the inner-shelf, harbour siltation or sediment exporting to the outer shelf. Short-time simulations in a high-resolution mesh have been used to reproduce the initial stages of the sediment dispersal. In this case, sediment accumulation occurs confined in an area attached to the coastline. A subsequent reworking is observed due to the wave-induced bottom stresses which resuspend fine material exported then towards the mid-shelf by seawards fluxes. The long-term water circulation simulations explains the observed fine deposits over the shelf. The results provide knowledge of sediment transport processes in the near-shore area of a micro-tidal domain. REFERENCES: Warner, J.C., Armstrong, B., He, R., and Zambon, J.B., 2010, Development of a Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system: Ocean Modeling, v. 35, no. 3, p. 230-244.

Gravitational, erosional and depositional processes on volcanic ocean islands: Insights from the submarine morphology of Madeira Archipelago

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Quartau, Rui; Ramalho, Ricardo S.; Madeira, José; Santos, Rúben; Rodrigues, Aurora; Roque, Cristina; Carrara, Gabriela; Brum da Silveira, António

2018-01-01

The submarine flanks of volcanic ocean islands are shaped by a variety of physical processes. Whilst volcanic constructional processes are relatively well understood, the gravitational, erosional and depositional processes that lead to the establishment of large submarine tributary systems are still poorly comprehended. Until recently, few studies have offered a comprehensive source-to-sink approach, linking subaerial morphology with near-shore shelf, slope and far-field abyssal features. In particular, few studies have addressed how different aspects of the subaerial part of the system (island height, climate, volcanic activity, wave regime, etc.) may influence submarine flank morphologies. We use multibeam bathymetric and backscatter mosaics of an entire archipelago - Madeira - to investigate the development of their submarine flanks. Crucially, this dataset extends from the nearshore to the deep sea, allowing a solid correlation between submarine morphologies with the physical and geological setting of the islands. In this study we also established a comparison with other island settings, which allowed us to further explore the wider implications of the observations. The submarine flanks of the Madeira Archipelago are deeply dissected by large landslides, most of which also affected the subaerial edifices. Below the shelf break, landslide chutes extend downslope forming poorly defined depositional lobes. Around the islands, a large tributary system composed of gullies and channels has formed where no significant rocky/ridge outcrops are present. In Madeira Island these were likely generated by turbidity currents that originated as hyperpycnal flows, whilst on Porto Santo and Desertas their origin is attributed to storm-induced offshore sediment transport. At the lower part of the flanks (-3000 to -4300 m), where seafloor gradients decrease to 0.5°-3°, several scour and sediment wave fields are present, with the former normally occurring upslope of the latter. Sediment waves are often associated with the depositional lobes of the landslides but also occur offshore poorly-developed tributary systems. Sediment wave fields and scours are mostly absent in areas where the tributary systems are well developed and/or are dominated by rocky outcrops. This suggests that scours and sediment wave fields are probably generated by turbidity currents, which experience hydraulic jumps where seafloor gradients are significantly reduced and where the currents become unconfined. The largest scours were found in areas without upslope channel systems and where wave fields are absent, and are also interpreted to have formed from unconfined turbidity currents. Our observations show that tributary systems are better developed in taller and rainy islands such as Madeira. On low-lying and dry islands such as Porto Santo and Desertas, tributary systems are poorly developed with unconfined turbidite currents favouring the development of scours and sediment wave fields. These observations provide a more comprehensive understanding of which factors control the gravitational, erosional, and depositional features shaping the submarine flanks of volcanic ocean islands.

Measurements of Two-Phase Suspended Sediment Transport in Breaking Waves Using Volumetric Three-Component Velocimetry

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ting, F. C. K.; LeClaire, P.

2016-02-01

Understanding the mechanisms of sediment pickup and distribution in breaking waves is important for modeling sediment transport in the surf zone. Previous studies were mostly concerned with bulk sediment transport under specific wave conditions. The distribution of suspended sediments in breaking waves had not been measured together with coherent flow structures. In this study, two-phase flow measurements were obtained under a train of plunging regular waves on a plane slope using the volumetric three-component velocimetry (V3V) technique. The measurements captured the motions of sediment particles simultaneously with the three-component, three-dimensional (3C3D) velocity fields of turbulent coherent structures (large eddies) induced by breaking waves. Sediment particles (solid glass spheres diameter 0.125 to 0.15 mm, specific gravity 2.5) were separated from fluid tracers (mean diameter 13 µm, specific gravity 1.3) based on a combination of particle spot size and brightness in the two-phase images. The interactions between the large eddies and glass spheres were investigated for plunger vortices generated at incipient breaking and for splash-up vortices generated at the second plunge point. The measured data show that large eddies impinging on the bottom was the primary mechanism which lift sediment particles into suspension and momentarily increased near-bed suspended sediment concentration. Although eddy impingement events were sporadic in space and time, the distributions of suspended sediments in the large eddies were not uniform. High suspended sediment concentration and vertical sediment flux were found in the wall-jet region where the impinging flow was deflected outward and upward. Sediment particles were also trapped and carried around by counter-rotating vortices (Figure 1). Suspended sediment concentration was significantly lower in the impingement region where the fluid velocity was downward, even though turbulent kinetic energy in the down flow was very high. These results suggest that vertical velocity or turbulent shear stress may be a better parameter for predicting sediment pick-up rate than turbulent kinetic energy. It was also found that splash-up vortices enhanced onshore transport relative to the condition when no vortex impinged on the bottom.

Sediment sorting along tidal sand waves: A comparison between field observations and theoretical predictions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Van Oyen, Tomas; Blondeaux, Paolo; Van den Eynde, Dries

2013-07-01

A site-by-site comparison between field observations and theoretical predictions of sediment sorting patterns along tidal sand waves is performed for ten locations in the North Sea. At each site, the observed grain size distribution along the bottom topography and the geometry of the bed forms is described in detail and the procedure used to obtain the model parameters is summarized. The model appears to accurately describe the wavelength of the observed sand waves for the majority of the locations; still providing a reliable estimate for the other sites. In addition, it is found that for seven out of the ten locations, the qualitative sorting process provided by the model agrees with the observed grain size distribution. A discussion of the site-by-site comparison is provided which, taking into account uncertainties in the field data, indicates that the model grasps the major part of the key processes controlling the phenomenon.

Storm-driven sediment transport in Massachusetts Bay

USGS Publications Warehouse

Warner, J.C.; Butman, B.; Dalyander, P.S.

2008-01-01

Massachusetts Bay is a semi-enclosed embayment in the western Gulf of Maine about 50 km wide and 100 km long. Bottom sediment resuspension is controlled predominately by storm-induced surface waves and transport by the tidal- and wind-driven circulation. Because the Bay is open to the northeast, winds from the northeast ('Northeasters') generate the largest surface waves and are thus the most effective in resuspending sediments. The three-dimensional oceanographic circulation model Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) is used to explore the resuspension, transport, and deposition of sediment caused by Northeasters. The model transports multiple sediment classes and tracks the evolution of a multilevel sediment bed. The surficial sediment characteristics of the bed are coupled to one of several bottom-boundary layer modules that calculate enhanced bottom roughness due to wave-current interaction. The wave field is calculated from the model Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN). Two idealized simulations were carried out to explore the effects of Northeasters on the transport and fate of sediments. In one simulation, an initially spatially uniform bed of mixed sediments exposed to a series of Northeasters evolved to a pattern similar to the existing surficial sediment distribution. A second set of simulations explored sediment-transport pathways caused by storms with winds from the northeast quadrant by simulating release of sediment at selected locations. Storms with winds from the north cause transport southward along the western shore of Massachusetts Bay, while storms with winds from the east and southeast drive northerly nearshore flow. The simulations show that Northeasters can effectively transport sediments from Boston Harbor and the area offshore of the harbor to the southeast into Cape Cod Bay and offshore into Stellwagen Basin. This transport pattern is consistent with Boston Harbor as the source of silver found in the surficial sediments of Cape Cod Bay and Stellwagen Basin.

Wave-Sediment Interaction in Muddy Environments: Subbottom Field Experiment

DTIC Science & Technology

2012-09-30

instrumentation deployed on nearby oil and gas platforms. WORK COMPLETED Field experiment and data analysis : The “Sub-bottom Field Experiment” project...Berkeley, Doctoral thesis, 149p. Chou, H.-T., M.A. Foda , and J.R. Hunt (1993). Rheological response of cohesive sediments to oscillatory forcing”, In...dissipation by muddy seafloors, Geophys. Res. Lett. 35/7, L07611. Foda , A.M., J.R. Hunt, and H.-T. Chou (1993). A nonlinear model for the

Current Pattern Change in the Fram Strait at the Pliocene/Pleistocene Boundary

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gebhardt, C.; Geissler, W. H.; Matthiessen, J. J.; Jokat, W.

2014-12-01

Thick packages of drift-type sediments were identified in the northwestern and central part of the Fram Strait, mainly along the western Yermak Plateau flank, but also in the central, flat part of the Fram Strait. A large-scale field of sediment waves was found north of 80.5°, along the Yermak Plateau rise. This field separates two drift bodies, a deeper one towards west and a shallower one towards east. The drift bodies were deposited by bottom currents, most likely by the northbound Yermak Branch of the West Spitsbergen Current, but an influence of a southbound current on the westren drift body cannot be ruled out. Within the drift bodies and even more pronounced withing the sediment waves, a stratigraphic boundary is clearly visible. It separates a lower package of waves migrating upslope at a low angle of ~5° from an upper package with significantly increased wave crest migration at ~16.5°. Using the seismic network, this stratigraphic boundary could be tracked to ODP Leg 151, Site 911, where it corresponds to the lithostratigraphic boundary between units IA and IB dated to 2.7 Ma. The increase in wave-crest migration angle points at a shift towards higher sedimentation rates at 2.7 Ma. This corresponds to the intensification of the Northern Hemisphere glaciation with a major expansion of the Scandinavian, northern Barents Sea, North American and Greenland ice sheets. The Barents Shelf that was subaerially exposed and the expansion of the northern Barents Sea ice sheet (as well as Svalbard) are the likely sources for enhanced erosion and fluvial input along the pathway of the West Spitsbergen Current, resulting in higher sedimentation rates in the Fram Strait.

Development and applications of a Coupled-Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) Modeling System

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Warner, J. C.; Armstrong, B. N.; He, R.; Zambon, J. B.; Olabarrieta, M.; Voulgaris, G.; Kumar, N.; Haas, K. A.

2012-12-01

Understanding processes responsible for coastal change is important for managing both our natural and economic coastal resources. Coastal processes respond from both local scale and larger regional scale forcings. Understanding these processes can lead to significant insight into how the coastal zone evolves. Storms are one of the primary driving forces causing coastal change from a coupling of wave and wind driven flows. Here we utilize a numerical modeling approach to investigate these dynamics of coastal storm impacts. We use the Coupled Ocean - Atmosphere - Wave - Sediment Transport (COAWST) Modeling System that utilizes the Model Coupling Toolkit to exchange prognostic variables between the ocean model ROMS, atmosphere model WRF, wave model SWAN, and the Community Sediment Transport Modeling System (CSTMS) sediment routines. The models exchange fields of sea-surface temperature, ocean currents, water levels, bathymetry, wave heights, lengths, periods, bottom orbital velocities, and atmospheric surface heat and momentum fluxes, atmospheric pressure, precipitation, and evaporation. Data fields are exchanged using regridded flux conservative sparse matrix interpolation weights computed from the SCRIP spherical coordinate remapping interpolation package. We describe the modeling components and the model field exchange methods. As part of the system, the wave and ocean models run with cascading, refined, spatial grids to provide increased resolution, scaling down to resolve nearshore wave driven flows simulated by the vortex force formulation, all within selected regions of a larger, coarser-scale coastal modeling system. The ocean and wave models are driven by the atmospheric component, which is affected by wave dependent ocean-surface roughness and sea surface temperature which modify the heat and momentum fluxes at the ocean-atmosphere interface. We describe the application of the modeling system to several regions of multi-scale complexity to identify the significance of larger scale forcing cascading down to smaller scales and to investigate the interactions of the coupled system with increasing degree of model-model interactions. Three examples include the impact of Hurricane Ivan in 2004 in the Gulf of Mexico, Hurricane Ida in 2009 that evolved into a tropical storm on the US East coast, and passage of strong cold fronts across the US southeast. Results identify that hurricane intensity is extremely sensitive to sea-surface temperature, with a reduction in intensity when the atmosphere is coupled to the ocean model due to rapid cooling of the ocean from the surface through the mixed layer. Coupling of the ocean to the atmosphere also results in decreased boundary layer stress and coupling of the waves to the atmosphere results in increased sea-surface stress. Wave results are sensitive to both ocean and atmospheric coupling due to wave-current interactions with the ocean and wave-growth from the atmospheric wind stress. Sediment resuspension at regional scale during the hurricane is controlled by shelf width and wave propagation during hurricane approach. Results from simulation of passage of cold fronts suggest that synoptic meteorological systems can strongly impact surf zone and inner shelf response, therefore act as a strong driver for long term littoral sediment transport. We will also present some of the challenges faced to develop the modeling system.

Waves, Hydrodynamics and Sediment Transport Modeling at Grays Harbor, WA

DTIC Science & Technology

2010-12-01

Grays Harbor Federal navigation project. At the same time, offshore wind and wave data were available from NDBC Buoy 46029 and CDIP Buoy 036 / NDBC...is forced by the regional ADCIRC water levels and currents, surface wind field, and offshore waves based on the CDIP Buoy 036 (NDBC 46211). Figures

Modeling of Nonlinear Hydrodynamics of the Coastal Areas of the Black Sea by the Chain of the Proprietary and Open Source Models

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kantardgi, Igor; Zheleznyak, Mark; Demchenko, Raisa; Dykyi, Pavlo; Kivva, Sergei; Kolomiets, Pavlo; Sorokin, Maxim

2014-05-01

The nearshore hydrodynamic fields are produced by the nonlinear interactions of the shoaling waves of different time scales and currents. To simulate the wind wave and swells propagated to the coasts, wave generated near shore currents, nonlinear-dispersive wave transformation and wave diffraction in interaction with coastal and port structure, sediment transport and coastal erosion the chains of the models should be used. The objective of this presentation is to provide an overview of the results of the application of the model chains for the assessment of the wave impacts on new construction designed at the Black Sea coasts and the impacts of these constructions on the coastal erosion/ accretion processes to demonstrate needs for further development of the nonlinear models for the coastal engineering applications. The open source models Wave Watch III and SWAN has been used to simulate wave statistics of the dedicated areas of the Black Sea in high resolution to calculated the statistical parameters of the extreme wave approaching coastal zone construction in accordance with coastal engineering standards. As the main tool for the costal hydrodynamic simulations the modeling system COASTOX-MORPHO has been used, that includes the following models. HWAVE -code based on hyperbolic version of mild slope equations., HWAVE-S - spectral version of HWAVE., BOUSS-FNL - fully nonlinear system of Boussinesq equations for simulation wave nonlinear -dispersive wave transformation in coastal areas. COASTOX-CUR - the code provided the numerical solution of the Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations (NLSWE) by finite-volume methods on the unstructured grid describing the long wave transformation in the coastal zone with the efficient drying -wetting algorithms to simulate the inundation of the coastal areas including tsunami wave runup. Coastox -Cur equations with the radiation stress term calculated via near shore wave fields simulate the wave generated nearhore currents. COASTOX-SED - the module of the simulation of the sediment transport in which the suspended sediments are simulated on the basis of the solution of 2-D advection -diffusion equation and the bottom sediment transport calculations are provided the basis of a library of the most popular semi-empirical formulas. MORPH - the module of the simulation of the morphological transformation of coastal zone based on the mass balance equation, on the basis of the sediment fluxes, calculated in the SED module. MORPH management submodel is responsible for the execution of the model chain "waves- current- sediments - morphodynamics- waves". The open source model SWASH has been used to simulate nonlinear resonance phenomena in coastal waters. The model chain was applied to simulate the potential impact of the designed shore protection structures at the Sochi Olympic Park on coastal morphodynamics, the wave parameters and nonlinear oscillations in the new ports designed in Gelenddjik and Taman at North-East coast of the Black Sea. The modeling results are compared with the results of the physical modeling in the hydraulic flumes of Moscow University of Civil Engineering.

Characterization of the Subsurface Using Vp, Vs, Vp/Vs, and Poisson's Ratio from Body and Surface Waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Catchings, R.

2017-12-01

P- and S-wave propagation differ in varying materials in the Earth's crust. As a result, combined measurements of P- and S-wave data can be used to infer properties of the shallow crust, including bulk composition, fluid saturation, faulting and fracturing, seismic velocities, reflectivity, and general structures. Ratios of P- to S-wave velocities and Poisson's ratio, which can be derived from the P- and S-wave data, can be particularly diagnostic of subsurface materials and their physical state. In field studies, S-wave data can be obtained directly with S-wave sources or from surface waves associated with P-wave sources. P- and S-wave data can be processed using reflection, refraction, and surface-wave-analysis methods. With the combined data, unconsolidated sediments, consolidated sediments, and rocks can be differentiated on the basis of seismic velocities and their ratios, as can saturated versus unsaturated sediments. We summarize studies where we have used combined P- and S-wave measurements to reliably map the top of ground water, prospect for minerals, locate subsurface faults, locate basement interfaces, determine basin shapes, and measure shear-wave velocities (with calculated Vs30), and other features of the crust that are important for hazards, engineering, and exploration purposes. When compared directly, we find that body waves provide more accurate measures than surface waves.

Integrating field research, modeling and remote sensing to quantify morphodynamics in a high-energy coastal setting, ocean beach, San Francisco, California

USGS Publications Warehouse

Barnard, P.L.; Hanes, D.M.

2006-01-01

Wave and coastal circulation modeling are combined with multibeam bathymetry, high-resolution beach surveys, cross-shore Personal Water Craft surveys, digital bed sediment camera surveys, and real-time video monitoring to quantify morphological change and nearshore processes at Ocean Beach, San Francisco. Initial SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) wave modeling results show a focusing of wave energy at the location of an erosion hot spot on the southern end of Ocean Beach during prevailing northwest swell conditions. During El Nin??o winters, swell out of the west and southwest dominates the region, and although the wave energy is focused further to the north on Ocean Beach, the oblique wave approach sets up a strong northerly littoral drift, thereby starving the southern end of sediment, leaving it increasingly vulnerable to wave attack when the persistent northwest swell returns. An accurate assessment of the interaction between wave and tidal processes is crucial for evaluating coastal management options in an area that includes the annual dredging and disposal of ship channel sediment and an erosion hot spot that is posing a threat to local infrastructure. Copyright ASCE 2006.

Evaluation of solitary waves as a mechanism for oil transport in poroelastic media: A case study of the South Eugene Island field, Gulf of Mexico basin

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Joshi, Ajit; Appold, Martin S.; Nunn, Jeffrey A.

Hydrocarbons in shallow reservoirs of the Eugene Island 330 field in the Gulf of Mexico basin are thought to have migrated rapidly along low permeability sediments of the Red fault zone as discrete pressure pulses from source rocks at depths of about 4.5 km. The aim of this research was to evaluate the hypothesis that these pressure pulses represent solitary waves by investigating the mechanics of solitary wave formation and motion and wave oil transport capability. A two-dimensional numerical model of Eugene Island minibasin formation predicted overpressures at the hydrocarbon source depth to increase at an average rate of 30more » Pa/yr, reaching 52 MPa by the present day and oil velocities of 1E-12 m/yr, far too low for kilometer scale oil transport to fill shallow Plio-Pleistocene reservoirs within the 3.6 million year minibasin history. Calculations from a separate one-dimensional model that used the pressure generation rate from the two-dimensional model showed that solitary waves could only form and migrate within sediments that have very low permeabilities between 1-25 to 1-24 m2 and that are highly overpressured to 91-93% of lithostatic pressure. Solitary waves were found to have a maximum pore volume of 105 m3, to travel a maximum distance of 1-2 km, and to have a maximum velocity of 1-3 m/yr. Based on these results, solitary waves are unlikely to have transported oil to the shallowest reservoirs in the Eugene Island field in a poroelastic fault gouge rheology at the pressure generation rates likely to have been caused by disequilibrium compaction and hydrocarbon generation. However, solitary waves could perhaps be important agents for oil transport in other locations where reservoirs are closer to the source rocks, where the pore space is occupied by more than one fluid, or where sudden fracturing of overpressured hydrocarbon source sediments would allow the solitary waves to propagate as shock waves. Hydrocarbons in shallow reservoirs of the Eugene Island 330 field in the Gulf of Mexico basin are thought to have migrated rapidly along low permeability sediments of the Red fault zone as discrete pressure pulses from source rocks at depths of about 4.5 km. The aim of this research was to evaluate the hypothesis that these pressure pulses represent solitary waves by investigating the mechanics of solitary wave formation and motion and wave oil transport capability. A two-dimensional numerical model of Eugene Island minibasin formation predicted overpressures at the hydrocarbon source depth to increase at an average rate of 30 Pa/yr, reaching 52 MPa by the present day and oil velocities of 1-12 m/yr, far too low for kilometer scale oil transport to fill shallow Plio-Pleistocene reservoirs within the 3.6 million year minibasin history. Calculations from a separate one-dimensional model that used the pressure generation rate from the two-dimensional model showed that solitary waves could only form and migrate within sediments that have very low permeabilities between 1-25 to 1-24 m2 and that are highly overpressured to 91-93% of lithostatic pressure. Solitary waves were found to have a maximum pore volume of 100,000 m3, to travel a maximum distance of 1-2 km, and to have a maximum velocity of 1-3 m/yr. Based on these results, solitary waves are unlikely to have transported oil to the shallowest reservoirs in the Eugene Island field in a poroelastic fault gouge rheology at the pressure generation rates likely to have been caused by disequilibrium compaction and hydrocarbon generation. However, solitary waves could perhaps be important agents for oil transport in other locations where reservoirs are closer to the source rocks, where the pore space is occupied by more than one fluid, or where sudden fracturing of overpressured hydrocarbon source sediments would allow the solitary waves to propagate as shock waves.« less

High-resolution modelling of waves, currents and sediment transport in the Catalan Sea.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Sánchez-Arcilla, Agustín; Grifoll, Manel; Pallares, Elena; Espino, Manuel

2013-04-01

In order to investigate coastal shelf dynamics, a sequence of high resolution multi-scale models have been implemented for the Catalan shelf (North-western Mediterranean Sea). The suite consists of a set of increasing-resolution nested models, based on the circulation model ROMS (Regional Ocean Modelling System), the wave model SWAN (Simulation Waves Nearshore) and the sediment transport model CSTM (Community Sediment Transport Model), covering different ranges of spatial (from ~1 km at shelf-slope regions to ~40 m around river mouth or local beaches) and temporal scales (from storms events to seasonal variability). Contributions in the understanding of local processes such as along-shelf dynamics in the inner-shelf, sediment dispersal from the river discharge or bi-directional wave-current interactions under different synoptic conditions and resolution have been obtained using the Catalan Coast as a pilot site. Numerical results have been compared with "ad-hoc" intensive field campaigns, data from observational models and remote sensing products. The results exhibit acceptable agreement with observations and the investigation has allowed developing generic knowledge and more efficient (process-based) strategies for the coastal and shelf management.

Acoustic measurement of sediment dynamics in the coastal zones using wireless sensor networks

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Sudhakaran, A., II; Paramasivam, A.; Seshachalam, S.; A, C.

2014-12-01

Analyzing of the impact of constructive or low energy waves and deconstructive or high energy waves in the ocean are very much significant since they deform the geometry of seashore. The deformation may lead to productive result and also to the end of deteriorate damage. Constructive waves results deposition of sediment which widens the beach where as deconstructive waves results erosion which narrows the beach. Validation of historic sediment transportation and prediction of the direction of movement of seashore is essential to prevent unrecoverable damages by incorporating precautionary measurements to identify the factors that influence sediment transportation if feasible. The objective of this study is to propose a more reliable and energy efficient Information and communication system to model the Coastal Sediment Dynamics. Various factors influencing the sediment drift at a particular region is identified. Consequence of source depth and frequency dependencies of spread pattern in the presence of sediments is modeled. Property of source depth and frequency on sensitivity to values of model parameters are determined. Fundamental physical reasons for these sediment interaction effects are given. Shallow to deep water and internal and external wave model of ocean is obtained intended to get acoustic data assimilation (ADA). Signal processing algorithms are used over the observed data to form a full field acoustic propagation model and construct sound speed profile (SSP). The inversions of data due to uncertainties at various depths are compared. The impact of sediment drift over acoustic data is identified. An energy efficient multipath routing scheme Wireless sensor networks (WSN) is deployed for the well-organized communication of data. The WSN is designed considering increased life time, decreased power consumption, free of threats and attacks. The practical data obtained from the efficient system to model the ocean sediment dynamics are evaluated with remote sensing data and the reasons of deviations and uncertainties are unbiased. The probability of changes and impact of sediment drift over ocean dynamic model over the long running of years is estimated.

Sea-floor geology of Long Island Sound north of Duck Pond Point, New York

USGS Publications Warehouse

McMullen, K.Y.; Poppe, L.J.; Danforth, W.W.; Blackwood, D.S.; Schaer, J.D.; Glomb, K.A.; Doran, E.F.

2012-01-01

The U.S. Geological Survey, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), and the Connecticut Department of Environmental Protection are mapping the sea floor in coastal areas of the northeastern United States. As part of the project, more than 100 square kilometers of multibeam-echosounder data, 23 sediment samples, bottom video, and 86 still photographs were obtained from an area in Long Island Sound north of Duck Pond Point, New York, in the study area of NOAA survey H11999. This report delineates the sediment types and sea-floor features found within this area in order to better understand the sea-floor processes occurring in this part of Long Island Sound. The sea floor in the study area is dominated by ubiquitous sand-wave fields and three northeast-southwest trending bathymetric depressions. Barchanoid and transverse sand waves, including sinusoidal, bifurcating, arced, and straight-crested morphologies, are variably present. Asymmetrical sand-wave profiles indicate a westward to southwestward direction of sediment transport in most of the study area; current ripples and megaripples on the stoss slopes of the sand waves indicate transport is ongoing. The majority of the sediment on the sea floor is sand, although bouldery, gravelly, and muddy sediments are also present. Gray, cohesive mud crops out on the walls of some of the scour depressions associated with the troughs of large sand waves. Clasts of the muddy sediment scattered on the sea floor around the depressions demonstrate the intensity of the scour and suggest erosion of the underlying distal deltaic sediments.

Study on small-strain behaviours of methane hydrate sandy sediments using discrete element method

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Yu Yanxin; Cheng Yipik; Xu Xiaomin

Methane hydrate bearing soil has attracted increasing interest as a potential energy resource where methane gas can be extracted from dissociating hydrate-bearing sediments. Seismic testing techniques have been applied extensively and in various ways, to detect the presence of hydrates, due to the fact that hydrates increase the stiffness of hydrate-bearing sediments. With the recognition of the limitations of laboratory and field tests, wave propagation modelling using Discrete Element Method (DEM) was conducted in this study in order to provide some particle-scale insights on the hydrate-bearing sandy sediment models with pore-filling and cementation hydrate distributions. The relationship between shear wavemore » velocity and hydrate saturation was established by both DEM simulations and analytical solutions. Obvious differences were observed in the dependence of wave velocity on hydrate saturation for these two cases. From the shear wave velocity measurement and particle-scale analysis, it was found that the small-strain mechanical properties of hydrate-bearing sandy sediments are governed by both the hydrate distribution patterns and hydrate saturation.« less

Tsunami Waves Joint Inversion Using Tsunami Inundation, Tsunami Deposits Distribution and Marine-Terrestrial Sediment Signal in Tsunami Deposit

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Tang, H.; WANG, J.

2017-12-01

Population living close to coastlines is increasing, which creates higher risks due to coastal hazards, such as the tsunami. However, the generation of a tsunami is not fully understood yet, especially for paleo-tsunami. Tsunami deposits are one of the concrete evidence in the geological record which we can apply for studying paleo-tsunami. The understanding of tsunami deposits has significantly improved over the last decades. There are many inversion models (e.g. TsuSedMod, TSUFLIND, and TSUFLIND-EnKF) to study the overland-flow characteristics based on tsunami deposits. However, none of them tries to reconstruct offshore tsunami wave characteristics (wave form, wave height, and length) based on tsunami deposits. Here we present a state-of-the-art inverse approach to reconstruct offshore tsunami wave based on the tsunami inundation data, the spatial distribution of tsunami deposits and Marine-terrestrial sediment signal in the tsunami deposits. Ensemble Kalman Filter (EnKF) Method is used for assimilating both sediment transport simulations and the field observation data. While more computationally expensive, the EnKF approach potentially provides more accurate reconstructions for tsunami waveform. In addition to the improvement of inversion results, the ensemble-based method can also quantify the uncertainties of the results. Meanwhile, joint inversion improves the resolution of tsunami waves compared with inversions using any single data type. The method will be tested by field survey data and gauge data from the 2011 Tohoku tsunami on Sendai plain area.

Analyze of waves dynamic over an intertidal mudflat of a sandy-gravely estuarine beach - Field survey and preliminary modeling approach

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Morio, Olivier; Sedrati, Mouncef; Goubert, Evelyne

2014-05-01

As well as marine submersion or erosive phenomena, clay-silted sediment in-filling on estuarial and bay beaches are a main issue in these human-attractive areas. Coupled sandy/gravely and clay/silty intertidal areas can be observed in these particular coastal areas, depending of rivers characteristic (discharge of particle, water flow), ocean dynamics (wave exposure, current) and sediments sources. All around the world, sandy/gravely beaches are exposed to punctual or continuous input clay sediments. Vilaine estuary, Bay of Arcachon and Bay of Seine in France, Plymouth Bay in UK and also Wadden Sea in Deutschland are few examples of muddy/sandy coupled or mixed system. The beach of Bétahon (Ambon town, Brittany - France) is located on the external Vilaine estuary and is an example of this issue. This meso-macrotidal intermediate (low tide terrace) beach presents heterogeneous sediments. The upper intertidal zone is composed by sand and gravel and characterized by a steep slope. A very gentle slope characterized the lower part of the beach and is constituted by silt and clay. Clay/sand limit is characterized by a decimetric erosion cliff of mudflat along the beach. In order to understand bed variations and sediment transport of this complex heterogeneous beach, a well understanding of wave dynamic across the beach is necessary. This study focus on wave dynamics over the beach, using field observations and MIKE 21 3D wave numerical model. This paper is a preliminary approach of an upcoming global understanding of this estuarial beach behavior. Swell from deep-sea to near-shore area is modeled over a 100 km² area and real wind, deep sea wave characteristic, river water flow and tidal level are defined as open boundary conditions for the regional model. This last one is based on multiple bathymetric surveys over the last 50 years. Local model, triangular mesh gridded to 5 meters, covering Bétahon beach , is based on topographic and photographic survey of the mudflat since 2005 (an amplitude above 1.4 meters has been observed over a start reference state). Modeling significant wave height, wave direction and period are compared to a cross-shore wave dynamics survey over the beach, during one week. Surf zone positions over the beach, wave characteristics at local and regional scales, impacts of mudflat altitude on waves are analyzed and discussed.

Variability of bed drag on cohesive beds under wave action

USGS Publications Warehouse

Safak, Ilgar

2016-01-01

Drag force at the bed acting on water flow is a major control on water circulation and sediment transport. Bed drag has been thoroughly studied in sandy waters, but less so in muddy coastal waters. The variation of bed drag on a muddy shelf is investigated here using field observations of currents, waves, and sediment concentration collected during moderate wind and wave events. To estimate bottom shear stress and the bed drag coefficient, an indirect empirical method of logarithmic fitting to current velocity profiles (log-law), a bottom boundary layer model for combined wave-current flow, and a direct method that uses turbulent fluctuations of velocity are used. The overestimation by the log-law is significantly reduced by taking turbulence suppression due to sediment-induced stratification into account. The best agreement between the model and the direct estimates is obtained by using a hydraulic roughness of 10 -4">−4 m in the model. Direct estimate of bed drag on the muddy bed is found to have a decreasing trend with increasing current speed, and is estimated to be around 0.0025 in conditions where wave-induced flow is relatively weak. Bed drag shows an increase (up to fourfold) with increasing wave energy. These findings can be used to test the bed drag parameterizations in hydrodynamic and sediment transport models and the skills of these models in predicting flows in muddy environments.

A regional sediment transport modeling for assessing dispersal and recirculation of land-derived radionuclides in the Fukushima coast

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Yamanishi, T.; Uchiyama, Y.; Tsumune, D.; Miyazawa, Y.

2014-12-01

Fluvial discharge from the rivers is viewed as a missing piece in the inventory of the radionuclides in the ocean during the accident at the Fukushima Daiichi Nuclear Power Plant (FNPP). The land-derived input introduces a time lag behind the direct release through hydrological process because these radionuclides mostly attach to suspended fine particles (sediments) that are transported quite differently to the dissolved matter. Therefore, we implement a sediment transport model proposed by Blaas et al. (2007) consisting of a multi-class non-cohesive sediment transport model, a wave-enhanced bed boundary layer model, and a stratigraphy model into ROMS. A 128 x 256 km domain with the grid resolution of dx = 250 m centered at FNPP is configured as a test bed embedded in the existing ROMS model domain at dx = 1 km (Uchiyama et al., 2012, 2013). A spectral wave model SWAN at dx = 1 km nested in the JMA GPV-CWM wave reanalysis is used for the wave forcing field. A surface runoff model (Toyota et al., 2009) provides daily-mean discharges and associated sediment fluxes at the mouths of 20 rivers in the study area.The model results show that bed stresses are enhanced in the coastal area about 10 to 20 km from the shore, most part of the semi-sheltered Sendai Bay, and on the continental shelf slope at about 600 m deep. In contrast, band-like structures are formed between the nearshore and the shelf slope where bed stresses are found to be modest. This low stress bands correspond to the areas where fine particles such as silt and clay are predominant in the bed. Since the cesium 137 is quite readily attached to fine particles rather than coarse sediments (sand), this result suggests that the band acts as a hot spot of the sediment-attached radionuclides. Indeed, a qualitative correlation is found between the low stress band with high radioactivity of cesium 137 in the bed sediment off FNPP based on the field measurement (Ambe et al., 2013).

A numerical investigation of fine sediment resuspension in the wave boundary layer - effect of hindered settling and bedforms

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hsu, T. J.; Cheng, Z.; Yu, X.

2016-02-01

The wave bottom boundary layer is a major conduit delivering fine terrestrial sediments to the continental margin. Hence, studying the fine sediment resuspension in the wave boundary layer is crucial to the understanding of various components of the earth system, such as carbon cycle. By assuming the settling velocity to be a constant in each simulation, previous turbulence-resolving numerical simulations reveal the existence of three transport modes in the wave boundary layer associated with the sediment availability. As the sediment availability and hence the sediment-induced stable stratification increase, a sequence of transport modes, namely, (I) well-mixed transport, (II) formulation of lutocline resembling a two-layer system, and (III) completely laminarized transport are observed. In general, the settling velocity is a flow variable due to the floc dynamics and hindered settling. This study further investigate the effect of hindered settling. Particularly, for flocs with lower gelling concentrations, the hindered settling effect can play a key role in sustaining large amount of suspended sediment load and results in the laminarized transport (III). For the simulation with a very significant hindered settling effect due to a low gelling concentration, results also indicate the occurrence of gelling ignition, a state in which the erosion rate is always higher than the deposition rate. A condition for the occurrence of gelling ignition is proposed for a range of wave intensities as a function of sediment/floc properties and erodibility parameters. These aforementioned studies are limited to fine sediment transport over a flat bed. However, recent field and laboratory observation show that a small amount of sand fraction can lead to the formation of small bedforms, which can armor the bed while in the meantime enhance near bed turbulence. Preliminary investigation on the effect of bedforms on the resulting transport modes will also be presented.

Nearshore Tsunami Inundation Model Validation: Toward Sediment Transport Applications

USGS Publications Warehouse

Apotsos, Alex; Buckley, Mark; Gelfenbaum, Guy; Jaffe, Bruce; Vatvani, Deepak

2011-01-01

Model predictions from a numerical model, Delft3D, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations are compared with analytical results and laboratory observations from seven tsunami-like benchmark experiments, and with field observations from the 26 December 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami. The model accurately predicts the magnitude and timing of the measured water levels and flow velocities, as well as the magnitude of the maximum inundation distance and run-up, for both breaking and non-breaking waves. The shock-capturing numerical scheme employed describes well the total decrease in wave height due to breaking, but does not reproduce the observed shoaling near the break point. The maximum water levels observed onshore near Kuala Meurisi, Sumatra, following the 26 December 2004 tsunami are well predicted given the uncertainty in the model setup. The good agreement between the model predictions and the analytical results and observations demonstrates that the numerical solution and wetting and drying methods employed are appropriate for modeling tsunami inundation for breaking and non-breaking long waves. Extension of the model to include sediment transport may be appropriate for long, non-breaking tsunami waves. Using available sediment transport formulations, the sediment deposit thickness at Kuala Meurisi is predicted generally within a factor of 2.

Self-organising of wave and beach relief in storm: field experiments

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kuznetsova, Olga; Saprykina, Yana; Kuznetsov, Sergey; Stremel, Margarita; Korsinin, Dmitry; Trifonova, Ekaterina; Andreeva, Natalia

2017-04-01

This paper presents results of waves and morfodynamics observation carried out in frame of complex field experiments "Shkorpilowtsy-2016" and "Shkorpilowtsy-2007", which were made in order to understand how bottom deformations depend on wave parameters and how wave-bottom self-organisation process runs during storm events. Sediment transport and profile deformations were analysed taking into account the presence of underwater bar (data 2007) and without it (data 2016). Experiments were made on field base of Institute of Oceanology "Fridtjof Nansen" (Bulgarian Academy of Sciences) in Shkorpilowtsy settlement, that is locates on Black Sea coast, 40 km from Varna. The base is equipped with 253 m research pier that provide measuring until 5 m depth on distance 200 m from shore. During filed works synchronous observations on wave parameters and bottom changes were made on average three times a day for one month: 18.09-08.10.2007 and 07.10-02.11.2016. Morphological observations involved cross-shore beach profile deformations measuring along the scientific pier from shore to sea through each 2 m using metal pole in 2007 and metal or rope lot in 2016. Wave measurements included visual observations of breaking and surf zones location, wave type (wind or swell wave) and direction as well as free surface deviation (wave chronogram) registrations using high-frequency capacitive or resistance sensors mounted along the pier. In 2007 registration of free surface elevation was carried out with 7 capacitance and 8 resistant wire gauges, in 2016 - with 18 capacitance wire gauges. Sampling frequency was 5 Hz in 2007 and 20 Hz in 2016, duration of the records varied from 20 min up to one hour in 2007 and between 10 min and one hour in 2016. Wave spectra computed from chronogram allowed to estimate wave spectral (significant wave height, spectral peak and mean periods and complex) and integral parameters (Irribaren and Ursell numbers) to analyse dependence bottom deformations on it. Self-organising of bottom relief and waves were studied on a scale of several storms. Results of investigations show that increase of significant wave height and spectral peak period of wave entering in coastal zone as well as Ursell number lead to erosion, which was localised in first 100 m near on barred profile and covered whole observed profile in case without bar. Features of sediment transport by forming a mobile temporal underwater bar were examined for cases of flat sloping and barred underwater beach profiles. On timescale of one storm type of wave breaking affect sediment transport: plunging wave breaking is responsible for formation and evolution of underwater sand bar as well as decreasing of sediment amount in upper part of beach profile and shoreline regression, while spilling do not lead to significant bottom deformations. The work was supported by Russian Foundation of Basic Research (grants 16-55-76002 (ERA-a), 16-35-00542 (mol_a), 15-05-08239, 15-05-04669).

Toxicity evaluation with the microtox® test to assess the impact of in situ oiled shoreline treatment options: natural attenuation and sediment relocation

USGS Publications Warehouse

Lee, Kenneth; Wohlgeschaffen, Gary; Tremblay, Gilles H.; Johnson, B. Thomas; Sergy, Gary A.; Prince, Roger C.; Guenette, Chantal C.; Owens, Edward H.

2003-01-01

Changes in the toxicity levels of beach sediment, nearshore water, and bottom sediment samples were monitored with the Microtox® Test to evaluate the two in situ oil spill treatment options of natural attenuation (natural recovery––no treatment) and sediment relocation (surf washing). During a series of field trials, IF-30 fuel oil was intentionally sprayed onto the surface of three mixed sediment (pebble and sand) beaches on the island of Spitsbergen, Svalbard, Norway (78°56′ N, 16°45′ E). At a low wave-energy site (Site 1 with a 3-km wind fetch), where oil was stranded within the zone of normal wave action, residual oil concentrations and beach sediment toxicity levels were significantly reduced by both options in less than five days. At Site 3, a higher wave-energy site with a 40-km wind fetch, oil was intentionally stranded on the beach face in the upper intertidal/supratidal zones, above the level of normal wave activity. At this site under these experimental conditions, sediment relocation was effective in accelerating the removal of the oil from the sediments and reducing the Microtox® Test toxicity response to background levels. In the untreated (natural attenuation) plot at this site, the fraction of residual oil remaining within the beach sediments after one year (70%) continued to generate a toxic response. Chemical and toxicological analyses of nearshore sediment and sediment-trap samples at both sites confirmed that oil and suspended mineral fines were effectively dispersed into the surrounding environment by the in situ treatments. In terms of secondary potential detrimental effects from the release of stranded oil from the beaches, the toxicity level (Microtox® Test) of adjacent nearshore sediment samples did not exceed the Canadian regulatory limit for dredged spoils destined for ocean disposal.

Nearshore disposal of fine-grained sediment in a high-energy environment: Santa Cruz Harbor case study

USGS Publications Warehouse

Cronin, Katherine; van Ormondt, Maarten; Storlazzi, Curt D.; Presto, Katherine; Tonnon, Pieter K.; Rosati, Julie D.; Wang, Ping; Roberts, Tiffany M.

2011-01-01

Current regulations in California prohibit the disposal of more than 20% fine-grained sediment in the coastal zone; this threshold is currently being investigated to determine if this environmental regulation can be improved upon. A field monitoring and numerical modeling experiment took place late 2 009 to determine the fate of fine-grained dredge disposal material from Santa Cruz Harbor, California, U.S.A. A multi-nested, hydrodynamic-sediment transport modeling approach was used to simulate the direction and dispersal of the dredge plume. Result s show that the direction and dispersal of the plume was influenced by the wave  climate, a large proportion of which moved in a easterly direction during wave events. Therefore it is vitally important to accurately simulate the tides, waves, currents, temperature and salinity when modeling the dispersal of the fine-grained dredge plume. 

Low-canopy seagrass beds still provide important coastal protection services.

PubMed

Christianen, Marjolijn J A; van Belzen, Jim; Herman, Peter M J; van Katwijk, Marieke M; Lamers, Leon P M; van Leent, Peter J M; Bouma, Tjeerd J

2013-01-01

One of the most frequently quoted ecosystem services of seagrass meadows is their value for coastal protection. Many studies emphasize the role of above-ground shoots in attenuating waves, enhancing sedimentation and preventing erosion. This raises the question if short-leaved, low density (grazed) seagrass meadows with most of their biomass in belowground tissues can also stabilize sediments. We examined this by combining manipulative field experiments and wave measurements along a typical tropical reef flat where green turtles intensively graze upon the seagrass canopy. We experimentally manipulated wave energy and grazing intensity along a transect perpendicular to the beach, and compared sediment bed level change between vegetated and experimentally created bare plots at three distances from the beach. Our experiments showed that i) even the short-leaved, low-biomass and heavily-grazed seagrass vegetation reduced wave-induced sediment erosion up to threefold, and ii) that erosion was a function of location along the vegetated reef flat. Where other studies stress the importance of the seagrass canopy for shoreline protection, our study on open, low-biomass and heavily grazed seagrass beds strongly suggests that belowground biomass also has a major effect on the immobilization of sediment. These results imply that, compared to shallow unvegetated nearshore reef flats, the presence of a short, low-biomass seagrass meadow maintains a higher bed level, attenuating waves before reaching the beach and hence lowering beach erosion rates. We propose that the sole use of aboveground biomass as a proxy for valuing coastal protection services should be reconsidered.

Beach Erosion and Accretion: Comparison of the Seasonal Influence of Suspended- and Bedload-Sediment Transport at Grays Harbor, Washington, U. S. A.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Sherwood, C. R.; Lacy, J. R.; Ruggiero, P.; Kerr, L. A.; Gelfenbaum, G.; Wilson, D. J.

2001-12-01

We conducted field studies on the ebb-tidal delta near the entrance to Grays Harbor, Washington in Autumn, 1999 and Spring 2001, with the objectives of 1) providing directional wave data to validate a shoaling and refraction model for the ebb-tidal delta, and 2) measuring forcing (wave- and current-induced near-bottom velocities, accelerations, and shear stresses) and responses (bedforms, suspended-sediment profiles, and sediment fluxes) associated with intervals of beach erosion and accretion. In the Autumn experiment (October - December), tripods were deployed at shallow ( ~14-m) and deep ( ~24-m) sites on the northern, middle, and southern flanks of the ebb tidal. In the Spring experiment (May - mid-July), tripods were redeployed at four sites and a new inshore site ( ~9-m depth), and pressures, current velocities, and suspended-sediment concentrations were measured with 5-MHz acoustic Doppler velocimeters (ADVs), optical backscatterance sensors, upward-looking acoustic Doppler current profilers (ADCPs), a downward-looking pulse-coherent acoustic Doppler profiler (PCADP), and an acoustic backscatterance sensor (ABS). We also measured bedforms with profiling and imaging sonars and estimated Reynolds stresses with a pair of 10-MHz ADVs at the inshore site. Incident waves, nearshore circulation patterns, statistics of near-bottom wave- and current-induced velocities, and sediment fluxes were distinctly different in the two experiments. During the Autumn measurements, the general direction of wave approach shifted from WNW to WSW as the North Pacific weather pattern shifted from summer to winter, and we observed a large storm (offshore significant wave heights Hs of ~8 m) and a sequence of about 8 smaller events with ~4 to 5-m waves. Sediment transport was dominated by storm-induced, downwelling-favorable circulation that transported suspended sediments northward and offshore. Inferred bedload fluxes were directed shoreward, but were much smaller. In contrast, Spring wave conditions were much milder (maximum Hs of ~4 m), and waves approached mostly from the WNW. There were long periods of upwelling-favorable circulation interrupted by intervals of storm-induced northward flow. Net suspended-sediment transport was directed northward at the deeper sites and southward at the inshore sites. Near-bottom transport remained offshore at the deeper sites, but was lower, with negligible net cross-shore component at the shallow sites. The relative contribution of shoreward bedload transport was much larger. These changes in sediment transport outside the breaker zone are consistent with measured changes in beach and bar morphology.

Wind and Wave Driven Nearshore Circulation at Cape Hatteras Point

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kumar, N.; Voulgaris, G.; Warner, J. C.; List, J. H.

2012-12-01

We have used a measurement and modeling approach to identify hydrodynamic processes responsible for alongshore transport of sediment that can support the maintenance of Diamond Shoals, NC, a large inner-shelf sedimentary convergent feature. As a part of Carolina Coastal Change Processes project, a one month field experiment was conducted around Cape Hatteras point during February, 2010. The instrumentation consisted of 15 acoustic current meters (measuring pressure and velocity profile) deployed in water depths varying from 3-10m and a very high frequency (VHF) beam forming radar system providing surface waves and currents with a resolution of 150 m and a spatial coverage of 10-15 km2. Analysis of field observation suggests that wind-driven circulation and littoral current dominate surf zone and inner shelf processes at least at an order higher than tidally rectified flows. However, the data analysis identified that relevant processes like non-linear advective acceleration, pressure gradient and vortex-force (due to interaction between wave-induced drift and mean flow vorticity), may be significant, but were not assessed accurately due to instrument location and accuracy. To obtain a deeper physical understanding of the hydrodynamics in this study-site, we applied a three-dimensional Coupled-Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave_Sediment-Transport (COAWST) numerical model. The COAWST modeling system is comprised of nested, coupled, three-dimensional ocean-circulation model (ROMS) and wave propagation model (SWAN), configured for the study site to simulate wave height, direction, period and mean current velocities (both Eulerian and Lagrangian). The nesting follows a two-way grid refinement process for the circulation module, and one-way for the wave model. The coarsest parent grid resolved processes on the spatial and temporal scales of mid-shelf to inner-shelf, and subsequent child grids evolved at inner-shelf and surf zone scales. Preliminary results show that the model successfully reproduces wind-driven circulation and littoral currents. Furthermore, model simulation provides evidence for (a) circulation pattern suggesting a mechanism for sediment movement from littoral zone to the Diamond Shoals complex; (b) Diamond shoals complex acting as independent coastline, which restricts the littoral currents to follow the coastline orientation around Cape Hatteras point. As a part of this study, simulated hydrodynamic parameters will be validated against field observations of wave height and direction and Eulerian velocities from acoustic current meters, and sea surface maps of wave height and Lagrangian flows provided by the VHF radar. Moreover, the model results will be analyzed to (a) identify the significance of the terms in momentum balance which are not estimated accurately through field observations; (b) provide a quasi-quantitative estimate of sediment transport contributing to shoal building process.

A Numerical Study of Hydrodynamics and Sediment Transport in Fourleague Bay, Louisiana

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hu, K.; Chen, Q. J.; Xu, K.; Bentley, S. J.; WANG, J.

2017-12-01

Fourleague Bay is a shallow and vertically well-mixed estuary in south-central Louisiana. This estuary is highly impacted by wind (e.g., cold fronts and tropical storms), river discharge from the Atchafalaya River and tides from the Gulf of Mexico, and is being used as an analog site to study impacts of sediment-diversion restoration strategies in the Mississippi River Delta. In this study, a coupled flow-wave Delft3D model was setup and applied to study hydrodynamics and sediment transport in this area. The model grid size is 1071x631 with a 50-m resolution in the bay. Vegetation is considered by rigid cylinders in both flow and wave modules. The offshore water level boundary conditions were provided by a Gulf-scale Delft3D model. Model parameters, especially for cohesive sediment transport such as settling velocity, erosion rate and critical bottom shear stress, were calibrated using the field observation data during three seasons from May 2015 to March 2016. The modeled water levels, currents, significant wave heights and suspended sediment concentrations agreed fairly well with measurements, which suggests a reasonable model performance. Seasonal variations were analyzed based on different scenarios. A series of numerical experiments were set up to quantify the contributions of different factors, such as river discharge, tides and waves to sediment transport in this area. This model will be further applied to be part of a landscape ecosystem model to test landscape and population change over time with manipulations to sediment delivery. This study was funded by the National Science Foundation (SEES-1427389 and CCF-1539567).

Quaternary geology and sedimentary processes in the vicinity of Six Mile Reef, eastern Long Island Sound

USGS Publications Warehouse

Poppe, L.J.; Williams, S.J.; Moser, M.S.; Forfinski, N.A.; Stewart, H.F.; Doran, E.F.

2008-01-01

Six Mile Reef, a sandy, 22-m-high shoal trending east-west and located about 7.8 km off the Connecticut coast, has a core of postglacial marine deltaic deposits mantled by tidally reworked modern sediments. Sedimentary environments off the eastern end of the shoal are characterized by processes associated with long-term erosion or nondeposition, a mobile-sediment-limited seafloor armored by gravelly sand, and scattered elongate fields of barchanoid sand waves. The barchanoid waves reach amplitudes of 20 m, are concave westward, and occur in individual and coalesced forms that become progressively more complex westward. The seafloor on and adjacent to the shoal is characterized by processes associated with coarse bedload transport and covered primarily with asymmetrical transverse sand waves. The transverse waves exceed 8 m in amplitude, have slip faces predominantly oriented to the west and southwest, and have straight, slightly sinuous, and curved crests. Megaripples, which mimic the asymmetry of the sand waves, are commonly present on stoss slopes and in troughs; current ripples are ubiquitous. The amplitude and abundance of large bedforms decrease markedly westward of Six Mile Reef. The seabed there is covered with small, degraded ripples, reflecting lower-energy environments and processes associated with sorting and reworking of seafloor sediments. Megaripples and current ripples on the sand waves suggest that transport is active and that the bedforms are propagating under the present hydraulic regime. Net bedload sediment transport is primarily to the west, as evidenced by textural trends of surficial sediments, orientation of the barchanoid waves, and asymmetry of the transverse waves and of the scour marks around bedrock outcrops, boulders, and shipwrecks. One exception occurs at the western tip of the shoal, where sand-wave morphology indicates long-term eastward transport, suggesting that countercurrents in this area shape the shoal and are important to its maintenance.

Elastic properties of gas hydrate-bearing sediments

USGS Publications Warehouse

Lee, M.W.; Collett, T.S.

2001-01-01

Downhole-measured compressional- and shear-wave velocities acquired in the Mallik 2L-38 gas hydrate research well, northwestern Canada, reveal that the dominant effect of gas hydrate on the elastic properties of gas hydrate-bearing sediments is as a pore-filling constituent. As opposed to high elastic velocities predicted from a cementation theory, whereby a small amount of gas hydrate in the pore space significantly increases the elastic velocities, the velocity increase from gas hydrate saturation in the sediment pore space is small. Both the effective medium theory and a weighted equation predict a slight increase of velocities from gas hydrate concentration, similar to the field-observed velocities; however, the weighted equation more accurately describes the compressional- and shear-wave velocities of gas hydrate-bearing sediments. A decrease of Poisson's ratio with an increase in the gas hydrate concentration is similar to a decrease of Poisson's ratio with a decrease in the sediment porosity. Poisson's ratios greater than 0.33 for gas hydrate-bearing sediments imply the unconsolidated nature of gas hydrate-bearing sediments at this well site. The seismic characteristics of gas hydrate-bearing sediments at this site can be used to compare and evaluate other gas hydrate-bearing sediments in the Arctic.

Field Observations of Swash-Zone Dynamics on a Sea-Breeze Dominated Beach at the Yucatán Peninsula, México

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Chardon-Maldonado, P.; Puleo, J. A.; Torres-Freyermuth, A.

2016-02-01

Sea breezes can modify the nearshore processes and alter beach morphology depending on the geographical location. Prior studies have shown that surf zone wave energy intensifies during strong sea-breeze conditions (wind speeds > 10 ms-1) and the impact on the coast can be similar to a small storm. However, few research efforts have investigated the coastal dynamics on sea-breeze dominated beaches (e.g., Masselink and Pattiaratchi, 1998, Mar. Geol.; Pattiaratchi et al., 1997, Cont. Shelf Res.) and, to the authors' knowledge, only one study has focused on swash-zone processes (Sonu et al., 1973, EOS). A field study was performed on a microtidal, low wave energy, sea-breeze dominated sandy beach in order to investigate the effects of local (sea breeze) and synoptic (storm) scale meteorological events on swash-zone dynamics. In-situ measurements of swash-zone hydrodynamics and sediment transport processes were collected from March 31st to April 12th, 2014 in Sisal, Yucatán located on the northern coast of the Yucatán Peninsula. Flow velocities and suspended sediment concentrations were measured concurrently, at multiple cross-shore and alongshore locations, using Vectrino-II profiling velocimeters and optical backscatter sensors, respectively. The high resolution data allowed the quantification of bed shear stress, turbulent dissipation rate, sediment loads and sediment flux during a mesoscale frontal system (cold-front passage referred to as an El Norte) and local sea-breeze cycles. Field observations showed that strong swash-zone bed shear stresses, turbulence intensity and sediment suspension occur during energetic conditions (i.e., El Norte event). On the other hand, despite milder energy conditions during the sea-breeze events, the alongshore component of bed-shear stresses and velocities can be significant owing to the high incidence wave angle associated with the sea-breeze system in the study area. The increased forcing in the swash zone induced sediment suspension, eroding the foreshore and causing accretion in the surf zone. The preliminary analysis demonstrates that strong sea-breeze events induce a significant alongshore swash-zone sediment transport that may be more important than that observed during an El Norte event.

Investigating Deep-Marine Sediment Waves in the Northern Gulf of Mexico Using 3D Seismic Data

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wang, Z.; Gani, M. R.

2016-12-01

Deep-water depositional elements have been studied for decades using outcrop, flume tank, sidescan sonar, and seismic data. Even though they have been well recognized by researchers, the improvements in the quality of 3D seismic data with increasingly larger dimension allow detailed analysis of deep-water depositional elements with new insights. This study focuses on the deep-marine sediment waves in the northern Gulf of Mexico. By interpreting a 3D seismic dataset covering 635 km2 at Mississippi Canyon and Viosca Knoll areas, large sediment waves, generated by sediment gravity flows, were mapped and analyzed with various seismic attributes. A succession of sediment waves, approximately 100 m in thickness, is observed on the marine slope that tapers out at the toe of the slope. The individual sediment wave exhibits up to 500 m in wavelength and up to 20 m in height. The wave crests oriented northeast-southwest are broadly aligned parallel to the regional slope-strike, indicating their sediment gravity flow origin. The crestlines are straight or slightly sinuous, with sinuosity increasing downslope. Their anti-dune patterns likely imply the presence of supercritical flows. The sediment waves have a retrogradational stacking pattern. Seismic amplitude maps of each sediment wave revealed that after depositing the majority of sheet-like sands on the upper slope, sediment gravity flows started to form large sediment waves on the lower slope. The steep and narrow upcurrent flanks of the sediment waves always display higher amplitudes than the gentle and wide downcurrent flanks, indicating that the sands were likely preferentially trapped along the upcurrent flanks, whereas the muds spread along the downcurrent flanks. The formation of sediment waves likely requires a moderate sand-mud ratio, as suggested by these observations: (1) absence of sediment waves on the upper slope where the sands were mainly deposited as unconfined sheets with a high sand-mud ratio; (2) absence of sediment waves on the basin floor, which is covered mainly by muds and hemipelagic sediments with a low sand-mud ratio; and (3) presence of sediment waves on the lower slope with a moderate sand-mud ratio.

A Coastal Environment Field and Laboratory Activity for an Undergraduate Geomorphology Course

ERIC Educational Resources Information Center

Ellis, Jean T.; Rindfleisch, Paul R.

2006-01-01

A field and laboratory exercise for an undergraduate geomorphology class is described that focuses on the beach. The project requires one day of fieldwork and two laboratory sessions. In the field, students measure water surface fluctuations (waves) with a pressure sensor, survey beach profiles, collect sediment samples, and observe the beach…

A new approximation for pore pressure accumulation in marine sediment due to water waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Jeng, D.-S.; Seymour, B. R.; Li, J.

2007-01-01

The residual mechanism of wave-induced pore water pressure accumulation in marine sediments is re-examined. An analytical approximation is derived using a linear relation for pore pressure generation in cyclic loading, and mistakes in previous solutions (Int. J. Numer. Anal. Methods Geomech. 2001; 25:885-907; J. Offshore Mech. Arctic Eng. (ASME) 1989; 111(1):1-11) are corrected. A numerical scheme is then employed to solve the case with a non-linear relation for pore pressure generation. Both analytical and numerical solutions are verified with experimental data (Laboratory and field investigation of wave-sediment interaction. Joseph H. Defrees Hydraulics Laboratory, School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY, 1983), and provide a better prediction of pore pressure accumulation than the previous solution (J. Offshore Mech. Arctic Eng. (ASME) 1989; 111(1):1-11). The parametric study concludes that the pore pressure accumulation and use of full non-linear relation of pore pressure become more important under the following conditions: (1) large wave amplitude, (2) longer wave period, (3) shallow water, (4) shallow soil and (5) softer soils with a low consolidation coefficient. Copyright

Wave Driven Fluid-Sediment Interactions over Rippled Beds

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Foster, Diane; Nichols, Claire

2008-11-01

Empirical investigations relating vortex shedding over rippled beds to oscillatory flows date back to Darwin in 1883. Observations of the shedding induced by oscillating forcing over fixed beds have shown vortical structures to reach maximum strength at 90 degrees when the horizontal velocity is largest. The objective of this effort is to examine the vortex generation and ejection over movable rippled beds in a full-scale, free surface wave environment. Observations of the two-dimensional time-varying velocity field over a movable sediment bed were obtained with a submersible Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) system in two wave flumes. One wave flume was full scale and had a natural sand bed and the other flume had an artificial sediment bed with a specific gravity of 1.6. Full scale observations over an irregularly rippled bed show that the vortices generated during offshore directed flow over the steeper bed form slope were regularly ejected into the water column and were consistent with conceptual models of the oscillatory flow over a backward facing step. The results also show that vortices remain coherent during ejection when the background flow stalls (i.e. both the velocity and acceleration temporarily approach zero). These results offer new insight into fluid sediment interaction over rippled beds.

Dynamic groundwater flows and geochemistry in a sandy nearshore aquifer over a wave event

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Malott, Spencer; O'Carroll, Denis M.; Robinson, Clare E.

2016-07-01

Dynamic coastal forcing influences the transport of pollutants in nearshore aquifers and their ultimate flux to coastal waters. In this study, field data are presented that show, for the first time, the influence of a period of intensified wave conditions (wave event) on nearshore groundwater flows and geochemistry in a sandy beach. Field measurements at a freshwater beach allow wave effects to be quantified without other complex forcing that are present along marine shorelines (e.g., tides). Pressure transducer data obtained over an isolated wave event reveal the development of transient groundwater flow recirculations. The groundwater flows were simulated in FEFLOW using a phase-averaged wave setup approach to represent waves acting on the sediment-water interface. Comparison of measured and simulated data indicates that consideration of wave setup alone is able to adequately capture wave-induced perturbations in groundwater flows. While prior studies have shown sharp pH and redox spatial zonations in nearshore aquifers, this study reveals rapid temporal variations in conductivity, pH, and redox (ORP) in shallow sediments (up to 0.5 m depth) in response to varying wave conditions. Comparison of head gradients with calculated conductivity and pH mixing ratios indicates the controlling effect of the wave-induced water exchange and flows in driving the observed geochemical dynamics. While we are not able to conclusively determine the extent to which temporal variations are caused by conservative mixing versus reactive processes, the pH and ORP variations observed will have significant implications for the fate of reactive pollutants discharging through sandy nearshore aquifers.

Hydro and morphodynamic simulations for probabilistic estimates of munitions mobility

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Palmsten, M.; Penko, A.

2017-12-01

Probabilistic estimates of waves, currents, and sediment transport at underwater munitions remediation sites are necessary to constrain probabilistic predictions of munitions exposure, burial, and migration. To address this need, we produced ensemble simulations of hydrodynamic flow and morphologic change with Delft3D, a coupled system of wave, circulation, and sediment transport models. We have set up the Delft3D model simulations at the Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck, NC, USA. The FRF is the prototype site for the near-field munitions mobility model, which integrates far-field and near-field field munitions mobility simulations. An extensive array of in-situ and remotely sensed oceanographic, bathymetric, and meteorological data are available at the FRF, as well as existing observations of munitions mobility for model testing. Here, we present results of ensemble Delft3D hydro- and morphodynamic simulations at Duck. A nested Delft3D simulation runs an outer grid that extends 12-km in the along-shore and 3.7-km in the cross-shore with 50-m resolution and a maximum depth of approximately 17-m. The inner nested grid extends 3.2-km in the along-shore and 1.2-km in the cross-shore with 5-m resolution and a maximum depth of approximately 11-m. The inner nested grid initial model bathymetry is defined as the most recent survey or remotely sensed estimate of water depth. Delft3D-WAVE and FLOW is driven with spectral wave measurements from a Waverider buoy in 17-m depth located on the offshore boundary of the outer grid. The spectral wave output and the water levels from the outer grid are used to define the boundary conditions for the inner nested high-resolution grid, in which the coupled Delft3D WAVE-FLOW-MORPHOLOGY model is run. The ensemble results are compared to the wave, current, and bathymetry observations collected at the FRF.

Suspended sediment diffusion mechanisms in the Yangtze Estuary influenced by wind fields

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wang, Lihua; Zhou, Yunxuan; Shen, Fang

2018-01-01

The complexity of suspended sediment concentration (SSC) distribution and diffusion has been widely recognized because it is influenced by sediment supply and various hydrodynamic forcing conditions that vary over space and over time. Sediment suspended by waves and transported by currents are the dominant sediment transport mechanisms in estuarine and coastal areas. However, it is unclear to what extent the SSC distribution is impacted by each hydrodynamic factor. Research on the quantitative influence of wind fields on the SSC diffusion range will contribute to a better understanding of the characteristics of sediment transport change and sedimentary geomorphic evolution. This study determined SSC from three Envisat Medium-Resolution Imaging Spectrometer acquisitions, covering the Yangtze Estuary and adjacent water area under the same season and tidal conditions but with varying wind conditions. SSC was examined based on the Semi-Empirical Radiative Transfer model, which has been well validated with the observation data. Integrating the corresponding wind field information from European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts further facilitated the discussion of wind fields affecting SSC, and in turn the influence of water and suspended sediment transportation and diffusion in the Yangtze estuarine and coastal area. The results demonstrated that the SSC present much more distinctive fluvial features in the inner estuary and wind fields are one of the major factors controlling the range of turbid water diffusion.

Wave characteristics and hydrodynamics at a reef island on Dongsha Atoll in the South China Sea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Su, Shih-Feng; Chiang, Te-Yun; Lin, Yi-Hao; Chen, Jia-Lin

2017-04-01

An inhabited coral reef island, located at the Dongsha Atoll in the northern South China Sea, is frequently attacked by typhoon waves. Coastline has suffered severe erosion and coastal inundation during certain typhoon paths. Groins were therefore built surround the island to stabilize the shoreline. However, the engineering structures redistributed the characteristics of hydrodynamics, which resulted in the disappearance of seasonal sediment movements on the reef flat. Additionally, infragravity waves (20-200 sec) on reefs have be found to generate strong resonance during energetic wave events. To understand wave characteristics and nearshore circulations around the reef under typical waves and typhoon waves, a phase-averaged and a phase-resolving wave models validated with previous field experiments are used to simulate significant wave height, wave setup and reef circulations. The phase-resolving model is specially applied to investigate infragravity motions around the island. Model results will illustrate the spatial variations of infragravity-wave field and wave-induced nearshore circulation and can provide information for coastal management and protection.

Evaluation of the horizontal-to-vertical spectral ratio (HVSR) seismic method to determine sediment thickness in the vicinity of the South Well Field, Franklin County, OH

USGS Publications Warehouse

Haefner, Ralph J.; Sheets, Rodney A.; Andrews, Robert E.

2011-01-01

The horizontal-to-vertical spectral ratio (HVSR) seismic method involves analyzing measurements of ambient seismic noise in three dimensions to determine the fundamental site resonance frequency. Resonance is excited by the interaction of surface waves (Rayleigh and Love) and body waves (vertically incident shear) with the high-contrast aconstic impedance boundary at the bedrock-sediment interface. Measurements were made to determine the method's utility for estimating thickness of unconsolidated glacial sediments at 18 locations at the South Well Field, Franklin County, OH, and at six locations in Pickaway County where sediment thickness was already known. Measurements also were made near a high-capacity production well (with pumping on and off) and near a highway and a limestone quarry to examine changes in resonance frequencies over a 20-hour period. Although the regression relation for resonance frequency and sediment thickness had a relatively low [r.sup.2] (0.322), estimates of sediment thickness were, on average, within 14 percent of known thicknesses. Resonance frequencies for pumping on and pumping off were identical, although the amplitude of the peak was nearly double under pumping conditions. Resonance frequency for the 20-hour period did not change, but the amplitude of the peak changed considerably, with a maximum amplitude in the early afternoon and minimum in the very early morning hours. Clay layers within unconsolidated sediments may influence resonance frequency and the resulting regression equation, resulting in underestimation of sediment thickness; however, despite this and other complicating factors, hydrogeologists should consider this method when thickness data are needed for unconsolidated sediments.

Evaluation of the horizontal-to-vertical spectral ratio (HVSR) seismic method to determine sediment thickness in the vicinity of the south well field, Franklin county, OH

USGS Publications Warehouse

Haefner, R.J.; Sheets, R.A.; Andrews, R.E.

2010-01-01

The horizontal-to-vertical spectral ratio (HVSR) seismic method involves analyzing measurements of ambient seismic noise in three dimensions to determine the fundamental site resonance frequency. Resonance is excited by the interaction of surface waves (Rayleigh and Love) and body waves (vertically incident shear) with the high-contrast acoustic impedance boundary at the bedrock-sediment interface. Measurements were made to determine the method's utility for estimating thickness of unconsolidated glacial sediments at 18 locations at the South Well Field, Franklin County, OH, and at six locations in Pickaway County where sediment thickness was already known. Measurements also were made near a high-capacity production well (with pumping on and off ) and near a highway and a limestone quarry to examine changes in resonance frequencies over a 20-hour period. Although the regression relation for resonance frequency and sediment thickness had a relatively low r 2(0.322), estimates of sediment thickness were, on average, within 14 percent of known thicknesses. Resonance frequencies for pumping on and pumping off were identical, although the amplitude of the peak was nearly double under pumping conditions. Resonance frequency for the 20-hour period did not change, but the amplitude of the peak changed considerably, with a maximum amplitude in the early afternoon and minimum in the very early morning hours. Clay layers within unconsolidated sediments may influence resonance frequency and the resulting regression equation, resulting in underestimation of sediment thickness; however, despite this and other complicating factors, hydrogeologists should consider this method when thickness data are needed for unconsolidated sediments. ?? 2011 by The Ohio Academy of Science. All Rights Reserved.

Processes affecting suspended sediment transport in the mid-field plume region of the Rhine River, Netherlands.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Flores, R. P.; Rijnsburger, S.; Horner-Devine, A.; Souza, A. J.; Pietrzak, J.

2016-02-01

This work will describe dominant processes affecting suspended sediment transport along the Dutch coast, in the mid-field plume region of the Rhine River. We will present field observations from two long-term deployments conducted in the vicinity of the Sand Engine, a mega-nourishment experiment located 10 km north of the Rhine river mouth. To investigate the role of density stratification, winds, tides, waves and river plume processes on sediment transport, frames and moorings were deployed within the excursion of the tidal plume front generated by the freshwater outflow from the Rhine River for 4 and 6 weeks during years 2013 and 2014, respectively. The moorings were designed to measure vertical profiles of suspended sediment concentration (SSC) and salinity, using arrays of CTDs and OBS sensors. Mean tidal velocities were measured using bottom-mounted ADCPs. The near-bed dynamics and the near-bottom sediment concentrations were measured as well using a set of synchronized ADVs and OBSs. By combining the two deployments we observe hydrodynamics and suspended sediment dynamics under a wide range of forcing conditions. Preliminary observations indicate that stratification is highly dependent on wind magnitude and direction, and its role is primarily identified as to induce significant cross-shore sediment transport product of the generation of cross-shore velocities due to the modification of the tidal ellipses and the passage of the surface plume front. The passage of the surface plume front generates strong offshore currents near the bottom, producing transport events that can be similar in magnitude to the dominant alongshore transport. Preliminary results also indicate that storms play an important role in alongshore transport primarily by wave-induced sediment resuspension, but as stratification is suppressed due to the enhancement of mixing processes, no significant cross-shore transport is observed during very energetic conditions.

The role of beach morphodynamic state on infragravity swash on beaches: field observations.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gomes da Silva, Paula; González, Mauricio; Medina, Raul

2017-04-01

The runup generated by waves can be defined as the maximum height above sea water level on the coastline and is an important criterion for costal structures/nourishment design and erosion/flooding risk analysis. Given the complexity of nonlinear processes involved in the runup generation, its prediction is commonly made by means of empirical formulations that relate wave and beach parameters. The most accepted parametrization presented till the moment was proposed by Stockdon et al. (2006), in which the runup exceeded by 2 percent of the waves (R2) is described in terms of setup (η - the steady superelevation of the mean water level caused by breaking waves) and incident and infragravity swash (Sinc and Sig- time-varying fluctuations around the setup caused by non-breaking waves). Such formulation has been widely accepted and its efficiency was appraised in many works. Nevertheless, although empirical parametrization of infragravity swash using incident wave's parameters shows reasonable skill, the correlation can still present considerable scatter. The amount of infragravity energy on swash is directly related to the morphodynamic beach state, in a way that beach profiles classified as reflective (low wave energy, coarse sediment and higher beach slope) tend to show lower Sig values than dissipative ones (high wave energy, fine sediment and lower beach slope). However, since Stockdon's formula for predicting infragravity swash consider only wave parameters, its use implies that beaches receiving the same wave energy but with different grain size and beach slope would present the same Sig values. This work assumed the hypothesis that the scatter verified on the predictions of the infragravity swash is mainly related to the lack of information about the beach state in Stockdon formula. Based on that, a field campaign was designed and carried out in Somo-El Puntal beach, north Spain, with the aim of generating data to be analyzed in terms of infragravity swash. An important aspect about this field site is that, given the gradient of wave energy that reaches each part of the beach, it can present many morphodynamic states simultaneously, allowing a high range of measurements in a single beach. Thus, wave, currents, sediment and runup data were measured in three different profiles, as well as the whole beach topography, bathymetry and video camera images. These data, summed to those available from Stockdon study, were used to verify the validity of the hypothesis and to propose a new approach for empirically determining infragravity swash on beaches.

Towards integrated assessment of the northern Adriatic Sea sediment budget using remote sensing

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Taramelli, A.; Filipponi, F.; Valentini, E.; Zucca, F.; Gutierrez, O. Q.; Liberti, L.; Cordella, M.

2014-12-01

Understanding the factors influencing sediment fluxes is a key issue to interpret the evolution of coastal sedimentation under natural and human impact and relevant for the natural resources management. Despite river plumes represent one of the major gain in sedimentary budget of littoral cells, knowledge of factors influencing complex behavior of coastal plumes, like river discharge characteristics, wind stress and hydro-climatic variables, has not been yet fully investigated. Use of Earth Observation data allows the identification of spatial and temporal variations of suspended sediments related to river runoff, seafloor erosion, sediment transport and deposition processes. Objective of the study is to investigate sediment fluxes in northern Adriatic Sea by linking suspended sediment patterns of coastal plumes to hydrologic and climatic forcing regulating the sedimentary cell budget and geomorphological evolution in coastal systems and continental shelf waters. Analysis of Total Suspended Matter (TSM) product, derived from 2002-2012 MERIS time series, was done to map changes in spatial and temporal dimension of suspended sediments, focusing on turbid plume waters and intense wind stress conditions. From the generated multi temporal TSM maps, dispersal patterns of major freshwater runoff plumes in northern Adriatic Sea were evaluated through spatial variability of coastal plumes shape and extent. Additionally, sediment supply from river distributary mouths was estimated from TSM and correlated with river discharge rates, wind field and wave field through time. Spatial based methodology has been developed to identify events of wave-generated resuspension of sediments, which cause variation in water column turbidity, occurring during intense wind stress and extreme metocean conditions, especially in the winter period. The identified resuspension events were qualitatively described and compared with to hydro-climatic variables. The identification of spatial and temporal pattern variability highlighted the presence of seasonal sediment dynamics linked to the seasonal cycle in river discharge and wind stress. Results suggest that sediment fluxes generate geomorphological variations in northern Adriatic Sea, which are mainly controlled by river discharge rates and modulated by the winds.

Field assessment of innovative sensor for monitoring of sediment accumulation at inshore coral reefs.

PubMed

Thomas, Séverine; Ridd, Peter

2005-01-01

Sediment accumulation rate is a frequently required parameter in environmental and management studies, in particular near coral reefs where sediment accumulation can potentially cause severe impact. However, opportunities to obtain accurate sediment accumulation measurements are often limited by a lack of adequate instrumentation, in particular for high temporal resolution monitoring. For instance the traditional use of sediment traps, as the most widespread technique, offers poor temporal resolution (commonly of weeks) besides having significant hydrodynamic shortcomings. Therefore, a new optical backscatter sediment accumulation sensor (SAS) was developed to continuously measure in situ short-term sediment accumulation in sensitive riverine and coastal environments, enabling high temporal and vertical resolution (order of 1 h and with a deposited thickness resolution in the order of 20 microm respectively). This allows investigations of various parameters that influence accumulation: tides, current, waves, rain, or anthropogenic activity such as sediment dumping. This paper briefly describes the SAS and presents three field applications on nearshore coral reefs at Ishigaki Island (Japan), Lihir Island (Papua New Guinea), and Magnetic Island (Australia).

Seafloor character and sedimentary processes in eastern Long Island Sound and western Block Island Sound

USGS Publications Warehouse

Poppe, Lawrence J.; Cohen-DiGiacomo, M. L.; Smith, S.M.; Stewart, H.F.; Forfinski, N.A.

2006-01-01

Multibeam bathymetric data and seismic-reflection profiles collected in eastern Long Island Sound and western Block Island Sound reveal previously unrecognized glacial features and modern bedforms. Glacial features include an ice-sculptured bedrock surface, a newly identified recessional moraine, exposed glaciolacustrine sediments, and remnants of stagnant-ice-contact deposits. Modern bedforms include fields of transverse sand waves, barchanoid waves, giant scour depressions, and pockmarks. Bedform asymmetry and scour around obstructions indicate that net sediment transport is westward across the northern part of the study area near Fishers Island, and eastward across the southern part near Great Gull Island.

Impacts of severe wave event to the coastal environment, east Taiwan: a case study of 2015 Typhoon Soudelor

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Huang, Shao-Yi; Yen, Jiun-Yee; Wu, Bo-Lin; Kao, Yu-Hsuan; Chang, Ting-Yi

2017-04-01

As an island surrounded by open water bodies, Taiwan faces associated challenges of oceanic events such as tidal, current and seasonsal wave cycles. In addition to the secular variations of the adjacent oceans, researchers have raised public awareness toward extreme wave events such as tsunamis and storm surges that may cause great damage to coastal infrastructures and loss of valuable lives. The east coast of Taiwan is prone to suffer from typhoons every year and records have shown that more than 30% of the low-pressure centers took the east coastline as their landing point. In year 2015, Typhoon Soudelor attacked the east coast of Taiwan and resulted in a great number of casualties and severe damage to the infrastructures all over the island. Soudelor is not the greatest typhoon of the year yet still brought in significant influences to the coastal topography due to its path and robust structure. In order to understand the impacts of typhoons like Soudelor, we investigated the coastal areas of Hualien, east Taiwan, to document how sediments and debris are transported along the shoreline under the extreme wave condition. Four coastal areas were surveyed to extract applicable information such as local relief profiles, grain size distribution of drifted sediments/debris, maximum inundation limit and so forth. Field observation suggests that the waves displayed great capability of transporting the sediments and redistributing the beach morphology. For instance, the beach of Qixing Lake (Chishingtan) has astonishing records like maximum volume of transported boulder around 3,000,000 cm3, maximum long axis of transported boulder around 144 cm, maximum distance of boulder transportation of 70 m, and maximum inundation distance of ca. 180 m. The composition and distribution of the drifted sediments in every areas vary with local geological conditions but in general all suggest similar characteristics: 1. the transported materials size down toward inland; 2. The sediments are originated from the vicinity and link positively with the local beach relief; 3. The occurrence of the drifted boulders shows a pattern of boulder field instead of sheet beds which is commonly observed at tsunami-related outcrops. By adding the detailed documentations of coastal environmental changes after the typhoon events, we hope to establish a thorough database that can facilitate tracking and predicting the behavior of extreme wave events in the future.

Great differences in the critical erosion threshold between surface and subsurface sediments: A field investigation of an intertidal mudflat, Jiangsu, China

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Shi, Benwei; Wang, Ya Ping; Wang, Li Hua; Li, Peng; Gao, Jianhua; Xing, Fei; Chen, Jing Dong

2018-06-01

Understanding of bottom sediment erodibility is necessary for the sustainable management and protection of coastlines, and is of great importance for numerical models of sediment dynamics and transport. To investigate the dependence of sediment erodibility on degree of consolidation, we measured turbidity, waves, tidal currents, intratidal bed-level changes, and sediment properties on an exposed macrotidal mudflat during a series of tidal cycles. We estimated the water content of surface sediments (in the uppermost 2 cm of sediment) and sub-surface sediments (at 2 cm below the sediment surface). Bed shear stress values due to currents (τc), waves (τw), and combined current-wave action (τcw) were calculated using a hydrodynamic model. In this study, we estimate the critical shear stress for erosion using two approaches and both of them give similar results. We found that the critical shear stress for erosion (τce) was 0.17-0.18 N/m2 in the uppermost 0-2 cm of sediment and 0.29 N/m2 in sub-surface sediment layers (depth, 2 cm), as determined by time series of τcw values and intratidal bed-level changes, and values of τce, obtained using the water content of bottom sediments, were 0.16 N/m2 in the uppermost 2 cm and 0.28 N/m2 in the sub-surface (depth, 2 cm) sediment. These results indicate that the value of τce for sub-surface sediments (depth, 2 cm) is much greater than that for the uppermost sediments (depth, 0-2 cm), and that the τce value is mainly related to the water content, which is determined by the extent of consolidation. Our results have implications for improving the predictive accuracy of models of sediment transport and morphological evolution, by introducing variable τce values for corresponding sediment layers, and can also provide a mechanistic understanding of bottom sediment erodibility at different sediment depths on intertidal mudflats, as related to differences in the consolidation time.

Impact of Natural (Storm) and Anthropogenic (Trawl) Resuspension the Sediment Transport on the Gulf of Lion's Shelf (NW Mediterranean)

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ferre, B.; Durrieu de Madron, X.; Estournel, C.; Ulses, C.; Le Corre, G.

2006-12-01

Modern sediment deposits on continental margins form a vast reservoir of particulate matter that is regularly affected by resuspension processes. On shelves with strong fishing activity, resuspension by bottom trawling processes can modify the scale of natural disturbance by waves and currents. Recent field data shows that the impact of bottom trawls on the resuspension of the fine sediments per unit surface is comparable with that of the largest storms. We assessed the impact of both natural and anthropogenic processes on the dispersal of river-borne particles and shelf sediments on the Gulf of Lion's Shelf. Realistic numerical simulations of resuspension and transport forced by currents and waves or by a fleet of bottom trawlers were developed. Simulations were conducted for a 16-month period to characterize the seasonal variability. The sediment dynamics takes into account bed armoring, ripple geometry and the cohesive and non-cohesive characteristics of the sediment. Essential but uncertain parameters (clay content, erosion fluxes and critical shear stress for cohesive sediment) were set with existing data. Resuspension by waves and currents is controlled by the shear stress, whereas resuspension by the bottom trawler fleet is controlled by its density and distribution. Natural resuspension by waves and currents mostly occurs during short winter episodes, and is concentrated on the inner-shelf. Trawling-induced resuspension, in contrast, occurs regularly throughout the year and is concentrated on the outer shelf. The total annual net resuspension by trawls (8×106 T y-1 is four orders of magnitude lower than the resuspension induced by waves and currents (4×1010 T y-1. However, because trawled regions are located on the outer shelf, closer to the continental slope, export of fine sediment resuspended by trawls (0.6×106 T y-1 is only one order of magnitude lower than export associated with natural resuspension (8×106 T y-1. A simulation combining both resuspension processes reveals a decrease of about 10% in resuspension and export rates, compared with the sum of each individual process.

Cohesive Sedimentary Processes on River-Dominated Deltas: New Perspectives from the Mississippi River Delta Front, Gulf of Mexico

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bentley, S. J.; Keller, G. P.; Obelcz, J.; Maloney, J. M.; Xu, K.; Georgiou, I. Y.; Miner, M. D.

2016-12-01

On river deltas dominated by proximal sediment accumulation (Mississippi, Huang He, others), the delta front region is commonly dominated by rapid accumulation of cohesive fluvial sediments, and mass-wasting processes that remobilize recently deposited sediments. Mass transport is preconditioned in sediments by high water content, biogenic gas production, over steepening, and is commonly triggered by strong wave loading and other processes. This understanding is based on extensive field studies in the 1970's and 80's. Recent studies of the Mississippi River Delta Front are yielding new perspectives on these processes, in a time of anthropogenically reduced sediment loads, rising sea level, and catastrophic deltaic land loss. We have synthesized many industry data sets collected since ca. 1980, and conducted new pilot field and modeling studies of sedimentary and morphodynamic processes. These efforts have yielded several key findings that diverge from historical understanding of this dynamic setting. First, delta distributary mouths have ceased seaward progradation, ending patterns that have been documented since the 18th century. Second, despite reduced sediment supply, offshore mass transport continues, yielding vertical displacements at rates of 1 m/y. This displacement is apparently forced by wave loading from storm events of near-annual return period, rather than major hurricanes that have been the focus of most previous studies. Third, core analysis indicates that this vertical displacement is occurring along failure planes >3 m in the seabed, rather than in more recently deposited sediments closer to the sediment-water interface. These seabed morphodynamics have the potential to destabilize both nearshore navigation infrastructure, and seabed hydrocarbon infrastructure offshore. As well, these findings raise more questions regarding the future seabed evolution offshore of major river deltas, in response to anthropogenic and climatic forcing.

Effects of Wave Energy Converter (WEC) Arrays on Wave, Current, and Sediment Circulation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ruehl, K.; Roberts, J. D.; Jones, C.; Magalen, J.; James, S. C.

2012-12-01

The characterization of the physical environment and commensurate alteration of that environment due to Wave Energy Conversion (WEC) devices, or arrays of devices, must be understood to make informed device-performance predictions, specifications of hydrodynamic loads, and environmental evaluations of eco-system responses (e.g., changes to circulation patterns, sediment dynamics, and water quality). Hydrodynamic and sediment issues associated with performance of wave-energy devices will primarily be nearshore where WEC infrastructure (e.g., anchors, piles) are exposed to large forces from the surface-wave action and currents. Wave-energy devices will be subject to additional corrosion, fouling, and wear of moving parts caused by suspended sediments in the water column. The alteration of the circulation and sediment transport patterns may also alter local ecosystems through changes in benthic habitat, circulation patterns, or other environmental parameters. Sandia National Laboratories is developing tools and performing studies to quantitatively characterize the environments where WEC devices may be installed and to assess potential affects to hydrodynamics and local sediment transport. The primary tools are wave, hydrodynamic, and sediment transport models. To ensure confidence in the resulting evaluation of system-wide effects, the models are appropriately constrained and validated with measured data where available. An extension of the US EPA's EFDC code, SNL-EFDC, provides a suitable platform for modeling the necessary hydrodynamics;it has been modified to directly incorporate output from a SWAN wave model of the region. Model development and results are presented. In this work, a model is exercised for Monterey Bay, near Santa Cruz where a WEC array could be deployed. Santa Cruz is located on the northern coast of Monterey Bay, in Central California, USA. This site was selected for preliminary research due to the readily available historical hydrodynamic data (currents and wave heights, periods, and directions), sediment characterization data, and near-shore bathymetric data. In addition, the region has been under evaluation for future ocean energy projects. The modeling framework of SWAN and SNL-EFDC combined with field validation datasets allows for a robust quantitative description of the nearshore environment within which the MHK devices will be evaluated. This quantitative description can be directly incorporated into environmental impact assessments to eliminate guesswork related to the effects of the presence of large-scale arrays. These results can be used to design more efficient arrays while minimizing impacts on the nearshore environments. Further investigations into fine-scale scour near the structures will help determine if these large-scale results show that, in fact, there is deposition adjacent to the arrays, which could have design implications on anchorage and cabling systems.

Characteristics of sediment resuspension in Lake Taihu, China: A wave flume study

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ding, Yanqing; Sun, Limin; Qin, Boqiang; Wu, Tingfeng; Shen, Xia; Wang, Yongping

2018-06-01

Lake Taihu is a typical shallow lake which frequently happens sediment resuspension induced by wind-induced waves. The experiments are carried on to simulate the wave disturbance processes in wave flume by setting a series of wave periods (1.2 s, 1.5 s, 1.8 s) and wave heights (2 cm, 10 cm). It aims to analyze the characteristics of sediment resuspension and the mechanisms of nutrients release and to evaluate the effects of sediment dredging on sediment resuspension and nutrients release in Lake Taihu. The results show that wave shear stress during 2 cm and 10 cm wave height processes ranges 0.018-0.023 N/m2 and 0.221-0.307 N/m2, respectively. Wave shear stress has no significant differences between wave periods. Wave height has much more effects on sediment resuspension. Wave height of 2 cm could induce total suspended solids (TSS) reaching up to 5.21 g/m2 and resuspension flux of sediment (M) up to 1.74 g/m2. TSS sharply increases to 30.33-52.41 g/m2 and M reached up to 48.94 g/m2 when wave height reaches to 10 cm. The disturbance depth under different sediment bulk weights ranges from 0.089 to 0.161 mm. Variation of suspended solids in 3 layers (1 cm, 5 cm, 20 cm above sediment interface) has no significant differences. Organic matter, TN and TP have positive relationship with SS. Organic matter is only accounted for 5.7%-7.3% of SS. The experiments under different sediment bulk densities (1.34 g/cm3, 1.47 g/cm3 and 1.59 g/cm3) find that TSS and M fall by 44.2% and 39.8% with sediment bulk density increasing, respectively. Total TN, DTN, TP and DTP decrease by 24.3%-33.6%. It indicates that sediment dredging could effectively reduce SS concentration and nutrient levels in water column. The researches provide a theoretical basis for sediment dredging to control the shore zone of Lake Taihu for lake management.

Ridge-Runnel and Swash Dynamics Field Experiment on a Steep Meso-Tidal Beach

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Figlus, J.; Song, Y.-K.; Chardon-Maldonado, P.; Puleo, J. A.

2014-12-01

Ridge-runnel (RR) systems are morphological features that may form in the intermittently wet and dry zone of the beach immediately after storm events. Their onshore migration provides a natural way of recovery for an eroded beach but the detailed swash interactions and complex feedback mechanisms between wave dynamics, sediment transport and profile evolution are not well understood and challenging to measure in-situ. During a storm, elevated water levels and large waves can significantly erode the beach profile in a matter of hours through offshore-directed sediment transport. The beach recovery process, on the other hand, occurs over a much longer time period during less intense wave conditions. In the beginning of this 3-week field campaign at South Bethany Beach, Delaware, a Nor'easter, eroded significant portions of this steep, meso-tidal beach and formed a pronounced RR system which then evolved during the less energetic conditions after the storm. An extensive cross-shore array of sensors was installed immediately after the storm measuring near-bed velocity profiles (5 Nortek Vectrino Profilers) and horizontal velocities (6 Sontec Electromagnetic Current Meters; 1 side-looking Nortek Vectrino) suspended sediment concentrations (10 Optical Backscatter Sensors OBS-3+), and pressure fluctuations (7 GE Druck pressure transducers) in the swash zone. Dense topography surveys of the RR system were conducted twice a day during low tide conditions with a Leica RTK GPS rover system. In addition, sediment grab samples along the entire RR cross-section were collected daily. An offshore ADCP with surface wave tracking capability (Nortek 2MHz AWAC AST) measured directional wave spectra and current profiles at a water depth of approximately 6m. The RR system showed rapid onshore migration over the two tide cycles immediately after the storm, followed by a period of vertical ridge accretion of up to 3 ft at certain locations. A first look at the collected data and analysis results related to the feedback mechanisms between wave forcing and RR evolution is presented along with a discussion of difficulties encountered during the experiment.

Sheet flow and suspended sediment due to wave groups in a large wave flume

USGS Publications Warehouse

Dohmen-Janssen, C. M.; Hanes, D.M.

2005-01-01

A series of sand bed experiments was carried out in the Large Wave Flume in Hannover, Germany as a component of the SISTEX99 experiment. The experiments focussed on the dynamic sediment response due to wave group forcing over a flat sand bed in order to improve understanding of cross-shore sediment transport mechanisms and determine sediment concentrations, fluxes and net transport rates under these conditions. Sediment concentrations were measured within the sheet flow layer (thickness in the order of 10 grain diameters) and in the suspension region (thickness in the order of centimetres). Within the sheet flow layer, the concentrations are highly coherent with the instantaneous near-bed velocities due to each wave within the wave group. However, in the suspension layer concentrations respond much more slowly to changes in near-bed velocity. At several centimetres above the bed, the suspended sediment concentrations vary on the time scale of the wave group, with a time delay relative to the peak wave within the wave group. The thickness of the sheet flow changes with time. It is strongly coherent with the wave forcing, and is not influenced by the history or sequence of the waves within the group. The velocity of the sediment was also measured within the sheet flow layer some of the time (during the larger wave crests of the group), and the velocity of the fluid was measured at several cm above the sheet flow layer. The grain velocity and concentration estimates can be combined to estimate the sediment flux. The estimates were found to be consistent with previous measurements under monochromatic waves. Under these conditions, without any significant mean current, the sediment flux within the sheet flow layer was found to greatly exceed the sediment flux in the suspension layer. As a result, net transport rates under wave groups are similar to those under monochromatic waves. ?? 2004 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Estimating the free gas content in Baltic Sea sediments using compressional wave velocity from marine seismic data

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Tóth, Zsuzsanna; Spiess, Volkhard; Mogollón, José M.; Jensen, Jørn Bo

2014-12-01

A 2-D high-resolution velocity field was obtained from marine seismic data to quantify free gas content in shallow muddy sediments at in situ pressure and temperature. The velocities were acquired applying Migration Velocity Analysis on prestack time-migrated data. Compressional wave velocities are highly sensitive to free gas as very small amounts of gas can cause a significant decrease in the medium velocity. The analyzed profile crosses a depression filled with organic-rich Holocene mud in the Bornholm Basin, Baltic Sea. The interval velocity field reveals two low-velocity patches, which extend from the reversed polarity reflections marking the top of the gassy sediment layer down to the base of the Holocene mud. Average interval velocities within the gassy mud are lower than the seafloor migration velocity by up to ˜500 m/s. This decrease, using a geoacoustic model, is caused by an average 0.046% gas volume fraction. The interval velocities in individual cells of the velocity field are reduced to ˜200 m/s predicting up to 3.4% gas content. The velocity field is limited in resolution due to velocity determination at and between reflections; however, together with the stratigraphic interpretation, geological units containing free gas could be identified. Shallow gas occurs vertically throughout most of the Holocene mud in the gassy area. Comparison with biogeochemical studies at other Baltic Sea sites suggests that the distribution of free gas is likely to be patchy in the sediment, but the gas concentration may peak below the sulfate-methane transition zone and gradually decrease below.

Induced dynamic nonlinear ground response at Gamer Valley, California

USGS Publications Warehouse

Lawrence, Z.; Bodin, P.; Langston, C.A.; Pearce, F.; Gomberg, J.; Johnson, P.A.; Menq, F.-Y.; Brackman, T.

2008-01-01

We present results from a prototype experiment in which we actively induce, observe, and quantify in situ nonlinear sediment response in the near surface. This experiment was part of a suite of experiments conducted during August 2004 in Garner Valley, California, using a large mobile shaker truck from the Network for Earthquake Engineering Simulation (NEES) facility. We deployed a dense accelerometer array within meters of the mobile shaker truck to replicate a controlled, laboratory-style soil dynamics experiment in order to observe wave-amplitude-dependent sediment properties. Ground motion exceeding 1g acceleration was produced near the shaker truck. The wave field was dominated by Rayleigh surface waves and ground motions were strong enough to produce observable nonlinear changes in wave velocity. We found that as the force load of the shaker increased, the Rayleigh-wave phase velocity decreased by as much as ???30% at the highest frequencies used (up to 30 Hz). Phase velocity dispersion curves were inverted for S-wave velocity as a function of depth using a simple isotropic elastic model to estimate the depth dependence of changes to the velocity structure. The greatest change in velocity occurred nearest the surface, within the upper 4 m. These estimated S-wave velocity values were used with estimates of surface strain to compare with laboratory-based shear modulus reduction measurements from the same site. Our results suggest that it may be possible to characterize nonlinear soil properties in situ using a noninvasive field technique.

Physical criteria for distinguishing sandy tsunami and storm deposits using modern examples

USGS Publications Warehouse

Morton, Robert A.; Gelfenbaum, Guy; Jaffe, Bruce E.

2007-01-01

Modern subaerial sand beds deposited by major tsunamis and hurricanes were compared at trench, transect, and sub-regional spatial scales to evaluate which attributes are most useful for distinguishing the two types of deposits. Physical criteria that may be diagnostic include: sediment composition, textures and grading, types and organization of stratification, thickness, geometry, and landscape conformity. Published reports of Pacific Ocean tsunami impacts and our field observations suggest that sandy tsunami deposits are generally 30 cm thick, generally extend The distinctions between tsunami and storm deposits are related to differences in the hydrodynamics and sediment-sorting processes during transport. Tsunami deposition results from a few high-velocity, long-period waves that entrain sediment from the shoreface, beach, and landward erosion zone. Tsunamis can have flow depths greater than 10 m, transport sediment primarily in suspension, and distribute the load over a broad region where sediment falls out of suspension when flow decelerates. In contrast, storm inundation generally is gradual and prolonged, consisting of many waves that erode beaches and dunes with no significant overland return flow until after the main flooding. Storm flow depths are commonly

Multiphysics and Multiscale Model Coupling Using Gerris

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Keen, T. R.; Dykes, J. D.; Campbell, T. J.

2012-12-01

This work is implementing oceanographic processes encompassing multiple physics and scales using the Gerris Flow Solver (GFS) in order to examine their interdependence and sensitivity to changes in the physical environment. The processes include steady flow due to tides and the wind, phase-averaged wave-forced flow and oscillatory currents, and sediment transport. The 2D steady flow is calculated by the Ocean module contained within GFS. This model solves the Navier-Stokes (N-S) equations using the finite volume method. The model domain is represented by quad-tree adaptive mesh refinement (AMR). A stationary wave field is computed for a specified wave spectrum is uniformly distributed over the domain as a tracer with local wind input parameterized as a source, and dissipation by friction and breaking as a sink. Alongshore flow is included by a radiation stress term; this current is added to the steady flow component from tides and wind. Wave-current interaction is parameterized using a bottom boundary layer model. Sediment transport as suspended and bed load is implemented using tracers that are transported via the advection equations. A bed-conservation equation is implemented to allow changes in seafloor elevation to be used in adjusting the AMR refinement. These processes are being coupled using programming methods that are inherent to GFS and that do not require modification or recompiling of the code. These techniques include passive tracers, C functions that operate as plug-ins, and user-defined C-type macros included with GFS. Our results suggest that the AMR model coupling method is useful for problems where the dynamics are governed by several processes. This study is examining the relative influence of the steady currents, wave field, and sedimentation. Hydrodynamic and sedimentation interaction in nearshore environments is being studied for an idealized beach and for the Sandy Duck storm of Oct. 1998. The potential behavior of muddy sediments on the inner shelf is being evaluated for cold fronts near Atchafalaya Bay in the Gulf of Mexico. Due to the complexity of the model output results, fields are loaded into ArcMAP, a GIS-based application developed by Environmental Systems Research Institute (ESRI), with additional software that facilitates analysis of the results and assessment of model performance. GFS provides output with sufficient georeferencing information to be suitable for nearly seamless ingestion by ArcMAP. Analysis tools include comparisons between data layers; these may be intra-model, inter-model, or model-observation data. The comparisons become new data layers with additional parameters such as enhancements curves, time series, and statistics.

Internal waves and modern and ancient hiatuses in pelagic caps of Pacific guyots and seamounts

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Mitchell, Neil; Simmons, Harper; Lear, Carrie

2013-04-01

Locations of recent non-deposition and ancient hiatuses in the pelagic caps of guyots and seamounts are compared with paleotemperature and physiographic information to speculate on the character of internal tidal waves in the upper Pacific Ocean through the Cenozoic. Internal tidal waves are generated where the ocean barotropic tide passes over the Hawaiian and other major ridges in the Pacific basin. Drill core and geophysical evidence for sediment accumulation, non-deposition or erosion are used to classify broadly sites as either accumulating or eroding/non-depositing in the recent geological past. When these classified sites are compared against results of a numerical model of the internal tide field (Simmons, Ocean Mod. 2008), the sites accumulating particles over the past few million years are all found to lie away from beams of the modeled internal tide, while those that have not been accumulating are in areas of high internal wave energy. Given the correspondence to modern internal wave conditions, we examine whether internal tides can explain ancient hiatuses at the drill sites. For example, Late Cenozoic pelagic caps on guyots among the Marshall Islands contain two hiatuses of broadly similar age, but the dates of the first pelagic sediments deposited following each hiatus do not correlate between guyots, suggesting that they originate not from universal factors (e.g., water chemistry) but local, probably physical factors, such as internal tides. We investigate how changing boundary conditions such as ocean temperature and basin physiography may have affected the geometry and vigour of internal tides through the Cenozoic. Changes in the geometry of ridges underlying the Solomon, Bonin and Marianas Island chains caused by plate tectonics and subsidence may be responsible for sediment hiatuses at these far-field guyot sites.

Internal waves and modern and ancient hiatuses in pelagic caps of Pacific guyots and seamounts

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Mitchell, N. C.; Simmons, H. L.; Lear, C. H.

2012-12-01

Locations of recent non-deposition and ancient hiatuses in the pelagic caps of guyots and seamounts are compared with paleotemperature and physiographic information to speculate on the character of internal tidal waves in the upper Pacific Ocean through the Cenozoic. Internal tidal waves are generated where the ocean barotopic tide passes over the Hawaiian and other major ridges in the Pacific basin. Drill core and geophysical evidence for sediment accumulation, non-deposition or erosion are used to classify broadly sites as either accumulating or eroding/non-depositing in the recent geological past. When these classified sites are compared against results of a numerical model of the internal tide field (Simmons, Ocean Mod. 2008), the sites accumulating particles over the past few million years are all found to lie away from beams of the modeled internal tide, while those that have not been accumulating are in areas of high internal wave energy. Given the correspondence to modern internal wave conditions, we examine whether internal tides can explain ancient hiatuses at the drill sites. For example, Late Cenozoic pelagic caps on guyots among the Marshall Islands contain two hiatuses of broadly similar age, but the dates of the first pelagic sediments deposited following each hiatus do not correlate between guyots, suggesting that they originate not from universal factors (e.g., water chemistry) but local, probably physical factors, such as internal tides. We investigate how changing boundary conditions such as ocean temperature and basin physiography may have affected the geometry and vigour of internal tides through the Cenozoic. Changes in the geometry of ridges underlying the Solomon, Bonin and Marianas Island chains caused by plate tectonics and subsidence may be responsible for sediment hiatuses at these far-field guyot sites.

Sediment Dispersal Within Poverty Bay, Offshore of the Waipaoa River, New Zealand

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Harris, C. K.; Bever, A. J.; McNinch, J. E.

2006-12-01

Transport processes change drastically as sediment crosses the boundary between land and sea. As such, developing conceptual or predictive models of transport and deposition for the shoreline and inner continental shelf is critical to understanding source-to-sink sedimentary systems. In shallow coastal areas, sediment dispersal results from both dilute suspensions driven by energetic waves and current shear stresses, and by gravitationally driven flows of fluid muds. The Waipaoa River, on the east coast of the North Island of New Zealand, delivers approximately 15 million tons per year of sediment to Poverty Bay, a small embayment with water depth less than about 25 m. Instruments deployed during the winter storm season of 2006 captured periods of high discharge from the Waipaoa River that were typically associated with energetic waves and winds from the southeast. During these times, instruments deployed at 9 and 14 m water depths recorded high turbidity. Currents measured in Poverty Bay were correlated with wind velocities, but also showed prolonged periods of offshore flow within the bottom boundary layer. Sediment texture throughout much of Poverty Bay is muddy, and thick deposits have occurred during the Holocene, as evidenced by sub-bottom seismics. Short-lived radioisotopes such as ^7Be have not been found on Poverty Bay sediments during our field work, though depocenters have been identified using ^7Be on the continental shelf. This may imply that muds exist there as ephemeral and spatially patchy deposits that may bypass Poverty Bay. Bypassing mechanisms may include offshore dispersal by dilute suspended sediment, and downslope transport of fluid muds. Energetic waves may resuspend sediment, which is then transported out of Poverty Bay by ambient ocean currents. Alternatively, fluid muds may form and transport material downslope and offshore to the continental shelf. Because of the high sediment loads of the Waipaoa River, these fluid muds may be formed by hyperpycnal river flows upon entering Poverty Bay. They may also be produced by frontal systems that focus newly delivered sediments, or within fluid muds confined to the thin near-bed wave boundary layer.

Numerical Simulation of Missouri River Bed Evolution Downstream of Gavins Point Dam

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Sulaiman, Z. A.; Blum, M. D.; Lephart, G.; Viparelli, E.

2016-12-01

The Missouri River originates in the Rocky Mountains in western Montana and joins the Mississippi River near Saint Louis, Missouri. In the 1900s dam construction and river engineering works, such as river alignment, narrowing and bank protections were performed in the Missouri River basin to control the flood flows, ensure navigation and use the water for agricultural, industrial and municipal needs, for the production of hydroelectric power generation and for recreation. These projects altered the flow and the sediment transport regimes in the river and the exchange of sediment between the river and the adjoining floodplain. Here we focus on the long term effect of dam construction and channel narrowing on the 1200 km long reach of the Missouri River between Gavins Point Dam, Nebraska and South Dakota, and the confluence with the Mississippi River. Field observations show that two downstream migrating waves of channel bed degradation formed in this reach in response to the changes in flow regime, sediment load and channel geometry. We implemented a one dimensional morphodynamic model for large, low slope sand bed rivers, we validated the model at field scale by comparing the numerical results with the available field data and we use the model to 1) predict the magnitude and the migration rate of the waves of degradation at engineering time scales ( 150 years into the future), 2) quantify the changes in the sand load delivered to the Mississippi River, where field observations at Thebes, i.e. downstream of Saint Louis, suggest a decline in the mean annual sand load in the past 50 years, and 3) identify the role of the main tributaries - Little Sioux River, Platte River and Kansas River - on the wave migration speed and the annual sand load in the Missouri River main channel.

Deep-water bedforms induced by refracting Internal Solitary Waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Falcini, Federico; Droghei, Riccardo; Casalbore, Daniele; Martorelli, Eleonora; Mosetti, Renzo; Sannino, Gianmaria; Santoleri, Rosalia; Latino Chiocci, Francesco

2017-04-01

Subaqueous bedforms (or sand waves) are typically observed in those environments that are exposed to strong currents, characterized by a dominant unidirectional flow. However, sand-wave fields may be also observed in marine environments where no such current exists; the physical processes driving their formation are enigmatic or not well understood. We propose that internal solitary waves (ISWs), induced by tides, can produce an effective, unidirectional boundary flow filed that forms asymmetric sand waves. We test this idea by examining a sand-wave field off the Messina Strait, where we hypothesize that ISWs formed at the interface between intermediate and surface waters are refracted by topography. Hence, we argue that the deflected pattern (i.e., the depth-dependent orientation) of the sand-wave field is due to refraction of such ISWs. Combining field observations and numerical modelling, we show that ISWs can account for three key features: ISWs produce fluid velocities capable of mobilizing bottom sediments; the predicted refraction pattern resulting from the interaction of ISWs with bottom topography matches the observed deflection of the sand waves; and predicted migration rates of sand waves match empirical estimates. This work shows how ISWs may contribute to sculpting the structure of continental margins and it represents a promising link between the geological and oceanographic communities.

Underwater MASW to evaluate stiffness of water-bottom sediments

USGS Publications Warehouse

Park, C.B.; Miller, R.D.; Xia, J.; Ivanov, J.; Sonnichsen, G.V.; Hunter, J.A.; Good, R.L.; Burns, R.A.; Christian, H.

2005-01-01

The multichannel analysis of surface waves (MASW) is initially intended as a land survey method to investigate the near-surface materials for their elastic properties. The acquired data are first analyzed for dispersion characteristics and, from these the shear-wave velocity is estimated using an inversion technique. Land applications show the potential of the MASW method to map 2D bedrock surface, zones of low strength, Poisson's ratio, voids, as well as to generate shear-wave profiles for various othe geotechnical problems. An overview is given of several underwater applications of the MASW method to characterize stiffness distribution of water-bottom sediments. The first application details the survey under shallow-water (1-6 m) in the Fraser River (Canada). The second application is an innovative experimental marine seismic survey in the North Atlantic Ocean near oil fields in Grand Bank offshore Newfoundland.

The South Carolina Coastal Erosion Study: Nearshore Hydrodynamics Field Experiment

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Haas, K. A.; Voulgaris, G.; Demir, H.; Work, P. A.; Hanes, D. M.

2004-12-01

As part of the South Carolina Coastal Erosion Study (SCCES) a nearshore field experiment was carried out for five days in December 2003 just north of Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, providing measurements of the waves, currents and morphological evolution. This experiment occurred concurrently with an extensive field campaign several kilometers offshore which included measurements of the waves and currents on and near a significant sand shoal. The purpose of the nearshore experiment was to aid in the identification of the effect of the offshore shoal on the nearshore processes. The resulting dataset will be used for verification of numerical models being used to investigate the hydrodynamics of the region. The experiment was carried out from December 10 to December 15 and consisted of measurements of the waves and currents, extensive surveys of the bathymetry every day, grab samples of the sediments, and video imagery. The hydrodynamics were measured using two Sontek Triton downward-looking Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters and two Nortek AquaDopp profilers arranged in a cross-shore line from inside the swash to several surf zone widths past the breakers. The bathymetric surveying was accomplished using both a differential GPS system and a total station. Surveying was performed each day in order to capture the morphological changes. On the last day, seven sediment samples were taken along a single cross-section to determine the sediment characteristics across the beach. Additionally, a video camera was located on a balcony of the top floor of a nearby hotel providing an excellent field of view of the entire experimental area. Digital video was captured directly onto a computer during all daylight hours and many control points were surveyed in each day to facilitate rectification of the imagery. A variety of conditions were encountered during the experiment, including two storm fronts which passed through, generating wind speeds up to 15 m/s. The first storm generated waves from the south driving a longshore current towards the north. After several relatively calm days with nearly normal incident waves the second front passed through the area with strong wind and waves approaching the shore with a large angle of incidence from the north. This drove an extremely strong longshore current in excess of 1.4 m/s and caused significant morphological changes.

Acoustic filtration and sedimentation of soot particles

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Martin, K. M.; Ezekoye, O. A.

Removal of soot particles from a static chamber by an intense acoustic field is investigated. Combustion of a solid fuel fills a rectangular chamber with small soot particles, which sediment very slowly. The chamber is then irradiated by an intense acoustic source to produce a three dimensional standing wave field in the chamber. The acoustic excitation causes the soot particles to agglomerate, forming larger particles which sediment faster from the system. The soot also forms 1-2 cm disks, with axes parallel to the axis of the acoustic source, which are levitated by the sound field at half-wavelength spacing within the chamber. Laser extinction measurements are made to determine soot volume fractions as a function of exposure time within the chamber. The volume fraction is reduced over time by sedimentation and by particle migration to the disks. The soot disks are considered to be a novel mechanism for particle removal from the air stream, and this mechanism has been dubbed acoustic filtration. An experimental method is developed for comparing the rate of soot removal by sedimentation alone with the rate of soot removal by sedimentation and acoustic filtration. Results show that acoustic filtration increases the rate of soot removal by a factor of two over acoustically-induced sedimentation alone.

Elastic Wave Imaging of in-Situ Bio-Alterations in a Contaminated Aquifer

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Jaiswal, P.; Raj, R.; Atekwana, E. A.; Briand, B.; Alam, I.

2014-12-01

We present a pioneering report on the utility of seismic methods in imaging bio-induced elastic property changes within a contaminated aquifer. To understand physical properties of contaminated soil, we acquired 48 meters long multichannel seismic profile over the Norman landfill leachate plume in Norman Oklahoma, USA. We estimated both the P- and S- wave velocities respectively using full-waveform inversion of the transmission and the ground-roll coda. The resulting S-wave model showed distinct velocity anomaly (~10% over background) within the water table fluctuation zone bounded by the historical minimum and maximum groundwater table. In comparison, the P-wave velocity anomaly within the same zone was negligible. The Environmental Scanning Electron Microscope (ESEM) images of samples from a core located along the seismic profile clearly shows presence of biofilms in the water table fluctuation zone and their absence both above and below the fluctuation zone. Elemental chemistry further indicates that the sediment composition throughout the core is fairly constant. We conclude that the velocity anomaly in S-wave is due to biofilms. As a next step, we develop mechanistic modeling to gain insights into the petro-physical behavior of biofilm-bearing sediments. Preliminary results suggest that a plausible model could be biofilms acting as contact cement between sediment grains. The biofilm cement can be placed in two ways - (i) superficial non-contact deposition on sediment grains, and (ii) deposition at grain contacts. Both models explain P- and S- wave velocity structure at reasonable (~5-10%) biofilm saturation and are equivocally supported by the ESEM images. Ongoing attenuation modeling from full-waveform inversion and its mechanistic realization, may be able to further discriminate between the two cement models. Our study strongly suggests that as opposed to the traditional P-wave seismic, S-wave acquisition and imaging can be a more powerful tool for in-situ imaging of biofilm formation in field settings with significant implication for bioremediation and microbial enhanced oil recovery monitoring.

Sediment Transport over a Dredge Pit, Sandy Point Southeast, west flank of the Mississippi River during Summer Upcoast Currents: a Coupled Wave, Current and Sediment Numerical Model

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Chaichitehrani, N.; Li, C.; Xu, K.; Bentley, S. J.; Miner, M. D.

2017-12-01

Sandy Point southeast, an elongated sand resource, was dredged in November 2012 to restore Pelican Island, Louisiana. Hydrodynamics and wave propagation patterns along with fluvial sediments from the Mississippi River influence the sediment and bottom boundary layer dynamics over Sandy Point. A state-of-the-art numerical model, Delft3D, was implemented to investigate current variations and wave transformation on Sandy Point as well as sediment transport pattern. Delft3d FLOW and WAVE modules were coupled and validated using WAVCIS and NDBC data. Sediment transport model was run by introducing both bed and river sediments, consisted of mainly mud and a small fraction of sand. A sediment transport model was evaluated for surface sediment concentration using data derived from satellite images. The model results were used to study sediment dynamics and bottom boundary layer characteristics focused on the Sandy Point area during summer. Two contrasting bathymetric configurations, with and without the Sandy Point dredge pit, were used to conduct an experiment on the sediment and bottom boundary layer dynamics. Preliminary model results showed that the presence of the Sandy Point pit has very limited effect on the hydrodynamics and wave pattern at the pit location. Sediments from the Mississippi River outlets, especially in the vicinity of the pit, get trapped in the pit under the easterly to the northeasterly upcoast current which prevails in August. We also examined the wave-induced sediment reworking and river-borne fluvial sediment over Sandy Point. The effect of wind induced orbital velocity increases the bottom shear stress compared to the time with no waves, relatively small wave heights (lower than 1.5 meters) along the deepest part of the pit (about 20 meters) causes little bottom sediment rework during this period. The results showed that in the summertime, river water is more likely the source of sedimentation in the pit.

Impact of natural (waves and currents) and anthropogenic (trawl) resuspension on the export of particulate matter to the open ocean: Application to the Gulf of Lion (NW Mediterranean)

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ferré, B.; Durrieu de Madron, X.; Estournel, C.; Ulses, C.; Le Corre, G.

2008-08-01

Modern sediment deposits on continental margins form a vast reservoir of particulate matter that is regularly affected by resuspension processes. Resuspension by bottom trawling on shelves with strong fishing activity can modify the scale of natural disturbance by waves and currents. Recent field data show that the impact of bottom trawls on fine sediment resuspension per unit surface is comparable with that of the largest storms. We assessed the impact of both natural and anthropogenic processes on the dispersal of riverborne particles and shelf sediments on the Gulf of Lion shelf. We performed realistic numerical simulations of resuspension and transport forced by currents and waves or by a fleet of bottom trawlers. Simulations were conducted for a 16-month period (January 1998-April 1999) to characterise the seasonal variability. The sediment dynamics takes into account bed armoring, ripple geometry and the cohesive and non-cohesive characteristics of the sediments. Essential but uncertain parameters (clay content, erosion fluxes and critical shear stress for cohesive sediment) were set with existing data. Resuspension by waves and currents was controlled by shear stress, whereas resuspension by trawls was controlled by density and distribution of the bottom trawler fleet. Natural resuspension by waves and currents mostly occurred during short seasonal episodes, and was concentrated on the inner shelf. Trawling-induced resuspension, in contrast, occurred regularly throughout the year and was concentrated on the outer shelf. The total annual erosion by trawls (5.6×10 6 t y -1, t for metric tonnes) was four orders of magnitude lower than the erosion induced by waves and currents (35.3×10 9 t y -1). However the net resuspension (erosion/deposition budget) for trawling (0.4×10 6 t y -1) was only one order of magnitude lower than that for waves and currents (9.2×10 6 t y -1). Off-shelf export concerned the finest fraction of the sediment (clays and fine silts) and took place primarily at the southwestern end of the Gulf. Off-shelf transport was favoured during the winter 1999 by a very intense episode of dense shelf water cascading. Export of sediment resuspended by trawls (0.4×10 6 t y -1) was one order of magnitude lower than export associated with natural resuspension (8.5×10 6 t y -1). Trawling-induced resuspension is thought to represent one-third of the total export of suspended sediment from the shelf. A simulation combining both resuspension processes reveals no significant changes in resuspension and export rates compared with the sum of each individual process, suggesting the absence of interference between both processes.

Diffusive smoothing of surfzone bathymetry by gravity-driven sediment transport

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Moulton, M. R.; Elgar, S.; Raubenheimer, B.

2012-12-01

Gravity-driven sediment transport often is assumed to have a small effect on the evolution of nearshore morphology. Here, it is shown that down-slope gravity-driven sediment transport is an important process acting to smooth steep bathymetric features in the surfzone. Gravity-driven transport can be modeled as a diffusive term in the sediment continuity equation governing temporal (t) changes in bed level (h): ∂h/∂t ≈ κ ▽2h, where κ is a sediment diffusion coefficient that is a function of the bed shear stress (τb) and sediment properties, such as the grain size and the angle of repose. Field observations of waves, currents, and the evolution of large excavated holes (initially 10-m wide and 2-m deep, with sides as steep as 35°) in an energetic surfzone are consistent with diffusive smoothing by gravity. Specifically, comparisons of κ estimated from the measured bed evolution with those estimated with numerical model results for several transport theories suggest that gravity-driven sediment transport dominates the bed evolution, with κ proportional to a power of τb. The models are initiated with observed bathymetry and forced with observed waves and currents. The diffusion coefficients from the measurements and from the model simulations were on average of order 10-5 m2/s, implying evolution time scales of days for features with length scales of 10 m. The dependence of κ on τb varies for different transport theories and for high and low shear stress regimes. The US Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility, Duck, NC provided excellent logistical support. Funded by a National Security Science and Engineering Faculty Fellowship, a National Defense Science and Engineering Graduate Fellowship, and the Office of Naval Research.

Oscillatory bedload transport: Data review and simple formulation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hallermeier, Robert J.

1982-11-01

This review displays over 700 rates of sediment transport by oscillatory flow from 20 sources. Sediments include fine sands to pebbles, both of quartz and of lightweight materials, and the transport rates in water range over seven orders of magnitude. Most data are average gross (to and fro) bedload rates collinear with laboratory flow over a horizontal sediment bed, although other situations with net transport, suspended load, or oblique field waves are considered. As peak flow velocity nears twice the threshold velocity for sediment motion, bedload appears to be fully developed and the transport rate is near that given by a simple formula including flow frequency and peak velocity, and sediment size and density. At lesser peak velocities, bedload rates are markedly smaller and distinctly different regimes of sediment mobilization and transport may be identified.

A numerical model investigation of the formation and persistence of an erosion hotspot

USGS Publications Warehouse

Hansen, Jeff E.; Elias, Edwin; List, Jeffrey H.; Barnard, Patrick L.

2011-01-01

A Delft3D-SWAN coupled flow and wave model was constructed for the San Francisco Bight with high-resolution at 7 km-long Ocean Beach, a high-energy beach located immediately south of the Golden Gate, the sole entrance to San Francisco Bay. The model was used to investigate tidal and wave-induced flows, basic forcing terms, and potential sediment transport in an area in the southern portion of Ocean Beach that has eroded significantly over the last several decades. The model predicted flow patterns that were favorable for sediment removal from the area and net erosion from the surf-zone. Analysis of the forcing terms driving surf-zone flows revealed that wave refraction over an exposed wastewater outfall pipe between the 12 and 15 m isobaths introduces a perturbation in the wave field that results in erosion-causing flows. Modeled erosion agreed well with five years of topographic survey data from the area.

Explicit use of the Biot coefficient in predicting shear-wave velocity of water-saturated sediments

USGS Publications Warehouse

Lee, M.W.

2006-01-01

Predicting the shear-wave (S-wave) velocity is important in seismic modelling, amplitude analysis with offset, and other exploration and engineering applications. Under the low-frequency approximation, the classical Biot-Gassmann theory relates the Biot coefficient to the bulk modulus of water-saturated sediments. If the Biot coefficient under in situ conditions can be estimated, the shear modulus or the S-wave velocity can be calculated. The Biot coefficient derived from the compressional-wave (P-wave) velocity of water-saturated sediments often differs from and is less than that estimated from the S-wave velocity, owing to the interactions between the pore fluid and the grain contacts. By correcting the Biot coefficients derived from P-wave velocities of water-saturated sediments measured at various differential pressures, an accurate method of predicting S-wave velocities is proposed. Numerical results indicate that the predicted S-wave velocities for consolidated and unconsolidated sediments agreewell with measured velocities. ?? 2006 European Association of Geoscientists & Engineers.

Validation of a coupled wave-flow model in a high-energy setting: the mouth of the Columbia River

USGS Publications Warehouse

Elias, Edwin P.L.; Gelfenbaum, Guy R.; van der Westhuysen, André J.

2012-01-01

 A monthlong time series of wave, current, salinity, and suspended-sediment measurements was made at five sites on a transect across the Mouth of Columbia River (MCR). These data were used to calibrate and evaluate the performance of a coupled hydrodynamic and wave model for the MCR based on the Delft3D modeling system. The MCR is a dynamic estuary inlet in which tidal currents, river discharge, and wave-driven currents are all important. Model tuning consisted primarily of spatial adjustments to bottom drag coefficients. In combination with (near-) default parameter settings, the MCR model application is able to simulate the dominant features in the tidal flow, salinity and wavefields observed in field measurements. The wave-orbital averaged method for representing the current velocity profile in the wave model is considered the most realistic for the MCR. The hydrodynamic model is particularly effective in reproducing the observed vertical residual and temporal variations in current structure. Density gradients introduce the observed and modeled reversal of the mean flow at the bed and augment mean and peak flow in the upper half of the water column. This implies that sediment transport during calmer summer conditions is controlled by density stratification and is likely net landward due to the reversal of flow near the bed. The correspondence between observed and modeled hydrodynamics makes this application a tool to investigate hydrodynamics and associated sediment transport.

Validation of a coupled wave-flow model in a high-energy setting: The mouth of the Columbia River

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Elias, Edwin P. L.; Gelfenbaum, Guy; Van der Westhuysen, André J.

2012-09-01

A monthlong time series of wave, current, salinity, and suspended-sediment measurements was made at five sites on a transect across the Mouth of Columbia River (MCR). These data were used to calibrate and evaluate the performance of a coupled hydrodynamic and wave model for the MCR based on the Delft3D modeling system. The MCR is a dynamic estuary inlet in which tidal currents, river discharge, and wave-driven currents are all important. Model tuning consisted primarily of spatial adjustments to bottom drag coefficients. In combination with (near-) default parameter settings, the MCR model application is able to simulate the dominant features in the tidal flow, salinity and wavefields observed in field measurements. The wave-orbital averaged method for representing the current velocity profile in the wave model is considered the most realistic for the MCR. The hydrodynamic model is particularly effective in reproducing the observed vertical residual and temporal variations in current structure. Density gradients introduce the observed and modeled reversal of the mean flow at the bed and augment mean and peak flow in the upper half of the water column. This implies that sediment transport during calmer summer conditions is controlled by density stratification and is likely net landward due to the reversal of flow near the bed. The correspondence between observed and modeled hydrodynamics makes this application a tool to investigate hydrodynamics and associated sediment transport.

Modes of cross-shore sediment transport on the shoreface of the Middle Atlantic Bight

USGS Publications Warehouse

Wright, L.D.; Boon, John D.; Kim, S.C.; List, J.H.

1991-01-01

The mechanisms responsible for onshore and offshore sediment fluxes across the shoreface zone seaward of the surf zone were examined in a 3-year field study. The study was conducted in the southern part of the Middle Atlantic Bight in the depth region 7–17 m using instrumented tripods supporting electromagnetic current meters, pressure sensors, suspended sediment concentration sensors, and sonar altimeters. The observations embraced fairweather, moderate energy, swell-dominated, and storm conditions. Cross-shore mean flows ranged from near zero during fairweather to > 20 cm s−1 during the storm; oscillatory flows were on the order of 10 cm s−1 during fairweather and 100 cm s−1 during the storm. Suspended sediment concentrations at about 10 cm above the bed were < 0.1 kg m−3 under fairweather conditions, 1–2 kg m−3 under moderate swell conditions, and > 5 kg m−3 during the storm.Three methods were applied to evaluate the relative importance of incident waves, long-period oscillations, mean flows and gravity in effecting shoreward or seaward sediment flux: (1) an energetics transport model was applied to instantaneous near-bottom velocity data, (2) higher moments of near-bottom flows were estimated and compared, and (3) suspended sediment fluxes were estimated directly from the instantaneous products of cross-shore velocity and suspended sediment concentration. The results show that measurable contributions were made by all four of the processes. Most significantly, mean flows were seen to dominate and cause offshore fluxes during the storm and to contribute significantly to onshore and offshore flux during fairweather and moderate energy. Incident waves were, in all cases, the major source of bed shear stress but also caused shoreward as well as seaward net sediment advection. Low-frequency effects involving wave groups and long-period waves made secondary contributions to cross-shore sediment flux. Contrary to expectations, low-frequency fluxes were just as often shoreward as seaward. Whereas cross-correlations between suspended sediment concentration and the instantaneous near-bottom current speed were high and in phase under storm conditions, they were weak and out of phase during fairweather conditions. This suggests that simple energetics models are probably inadequate for predicting fairweather transport of suspended sediment.

Mobility of maerl-siliciclastic mixtures: Impact of waves, currents and storm events

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Joshi, Siddhi; Duffy, Garret Patrick; Brown, Colin

2017-04-01

Maerl beds are free-living, non-geniculate coralline algae habitats which form biogenic reefs with high micro-scale complexity supporting a diversity and abundance of rare epifauna and epiflora. These habitats are highly mobile in shallow marine environments where substantial maerl beds co-exist with siliciclastic sediment, exemplified by our study site of Galway Bay. Coupled hydrodynamic-wave-sediment transport models have been used to explore the transport patterns of maerl-siliciclastic sediment during calm summer conditions and severe winter storms. The sediment distribution is strongly influenced by storm waves even in water depths greater than 100 m. Maerl is present at the periphery of wave-induced residual current gyres during storm conditions. A combined wave-current Sediment Mobility Index during storm conditions shows correlation with multibeam backscatter and surficial sediment distribution. A combined wave-current Mobilization Frequency Index during storm conditions acts as a physical surrogate for the presence of maerl-siliciclastic mixtures in Galway Bay. Both indices can provide useful integrated oceanographic and sediment information to complement coupled numerical hydrodynamic, sediment transport and erosion-deposition models.

A nearshore processes field experiment at Cape Hatteras, North Carolina, U.S.A.

USGS Publications Warehouse

List, Jeffrey H.; Warner, John C.; Thieler, E. Robert; Haas, Kevin; Voulgaris, George; McNinch, Jesse E.; Brodie, Katherine L.; Rosati, Julie D.; Wang, Ping; Roberts, Tiffany M.

2011-01-01

A month-long field experiment focused on the nearshore hydrodynamics of Diamond Shoals adjacent to Cape Hatteras Point, North Carolina, was conducted in February 2010. The objectives of this multi-institutional experiment were to test hypotheses related to Diamond Shoals as a sink in the regional sediment budget and to provide data for evaluating numerical models. The experiment included in-situ instrumentation for measuring waves and currents; a video camera system for measuring surface currents at a nearshore transect; a radar system for measuring regional surface currents over Diamond Shoals and the adjacent coast; a vehicle-based scanning lidar and radar system for mapping beach topography, nearshore wave breaking intensity, bathymetry (through wave celerity inversion), and wave direction; and an amphibious vehicle system for surveying single-beam bathymetry. Preliminary results from wave and current measurements suggest that shoal-building processes were active during the experiment.

Laboratory Observations of Dune Erosion

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Maddux, T. B.; Ruggiero, P.; Palmsten, M.; Holman, R.; Cox, D. T.

2006-12-01

Coastal dunes are an important feature along many coastlines, owing to their input to the sediment supply, use as habitat, and ability to protect onshore resources from wave attack. Correct predictions of the erosion and overtopping rates of these features are needed to develop improved responses to coastal dune damage events, and to determining the likelihood and magnitude of future erosion and overtopping on different beaches. We have conducted a large-scale laboratory study at Oregon State University's O.H. Hinsdale Wave Research Laboratory (HWRL) with the goal of producing a comprehensive, near prototype-scale, physical model data set of hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and morphological evolution during extreme dune erosion events. The two goals of this work are (1) to develop a better understanding of swash/dune dynamics and (2) to evaluate and guide further development of dune erosion models. We present initial results from the first phase of the experimental program. An initial beach and dune profile was selected based on field LIDAR-based observations of various U.S. east coast and Gulf coast dune systems. The laboratory beach was brought to equilibrium with pre-storm random wave conditions. It was subsequently subjected to attack from steadily increasing water level and offshore wave heights. Observations made include inner surf zone and swash free surface and velocities as well as wave-by-wave estimates of topographical change at high spatial resolution through the use of stereo video imagery. Future work will include studies of fluid overtopping of the dune and sediment overwash and assessment of the resilience of man-made "push-up" dunes to wave attack in comparison with their more-compacted "natural" cousins.

Three-dimensional modelling for assessment of far-field impact of tidal stream turbine: A case study at the Anglesey Coast, Wales, UK

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Li, Xiaorong; Li, Ming; Wolf, Judith

2017-04-01

As a response to worldwide climate change, clean non-carbon renewable energy resources have been gaining significant attention. Among a range of renewable alternatives, tidal stream energy is considered very promising; due to its consistent predictability and availability. To investigate impacts of tidal stream devices on their surroundings, prototype experiments involving small scale laboratory studies have been implemented. Computational Flow Dynamics (CFD) modelling is also commonly applied to study turbine behaviours. However, these studies focus on impacts of the turbine in the near-field scale. As a result, in order to study and predict the far-field impacts caused by the operation of turbines, large scale 2D and 3D numerical oceanography models have been used, with routines added to reflect the impacts of turbines. In comparison to 2D models, 3D models are advantageous in providing complete prediction of vertical flow structures and hence mixing in the wake of a turbine. This research aims to deliver a thorough 3D tidal stream turbine simulation system, by considering major coastal processes, i.e. current, waves and sediment transport, based on a 3D wave-current-sediment fully coupled numerical oceanography model — the Unstructured Grid Finite Volume Community Ocean Model (FVCOM). The energy extraction of turbines is simulated by adding a body force to the momentum equations. Across the water depth, the coefficient related to the additional body force is given different values according to the turbine configuration and operation to reflect the vertical variation of the turbine's impacts on the passing flow. Three turbulence perturbation terms are added to the turbulence closure to simulate the turbine-induced turbulence generation, dissipation and interference for the turbulence length-scale. Impacts of turbine operation on surface waves are also considered by modification of wave energy flux across the device. A thorough validation study is carried out in which the developed model is tested; based on a combination of laboratory measured data and CFD simulated results. The developed turbine simulation system is then applied to the Anglesey coast, North Wales, UK for a case study. The validation study suggests that the developed turbine simulation system is able to accurately simulate both hydrodynamics and wave dynamics in the turbine wake. The case study with 18 turbines (diameter is 15 m) modelled individually in the waterway between the north-west Anglesey and the Skerries reveals impacts of the turbine farm on free surface elevation, flow field, turbulence kinetic energy (TKE), surface waves, bottom shear stress and suspended sediment transport. The wake is observable up to 4.5 km downstream of the device farm. Flow near the bed in the wake is accelerated, leading to enhanced bottom shear stress. The device farm has a strong influence on TKE and hence the vertical mixing of suspended sediment in the wake. Further, the eastwards directed residual sediment transport along the north coast of Anglesey is found to be weakened by the turbine farm.

An Investigation of the Influence of Waves on Sediment Processes in Skagit Bay

DTIC Science & Technology

2012-09-30

parameterizations common to most surface wave models, including wave generation by wind , energy dissipation from whitecapping, and quadruplet wave-wave...supply and wind on tidal flat sediment transport. It will be used to evaluate the capabilities of state-of-the-art open source sediment models and to...N00014-08-1-1115 which supported the hydrodynamic model development. Wind forcing for the wave and hydrodynamic models for realistic experiments will

Bathymetric Changes Shaped by Longshore Currents on a Natural Beach

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Reilly, W. L.; Slinn, D.; Plant, N.

2004-12-01

The goal of the project is to simulate beach morphology on time scales of hours to days. Our approach is to develop finite difference solutions from a coupled modeling system consisting of existing nearshore circulation, wave, and sediment flux models. We initialize the model with bathymetry from a dense data set north of the pier at the Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck, NC. We integrate the model system forward in time and compare the results of the hind-cast of the beach evolution with the field observations. The model domain extends 1000 meters in the alongshore direction and 500 meters in the cross-shore direction with 5 meter grid spacing. The bathymetry is interpolated and filtered from CRAB transects. A second-degree exponential smoothing method is used to return the cross-shore beach profile near the edges of the modeled domain back to the mean alongshore profile, because the circulation model implements periodic boundary conditions in the alongshore direction. The offshore wave height and direction are taken from the 8-meter bipod at the FRF and input to the wave-model, SWAN (Spectral Wave Nearshore), with a Gaussian-shaped frequency spectrum and a directional spreading of 5 degrees. A constant depth induced wave breaking parameter of 0.73 is used. The resulting calculated wave induced force per unit surface area (gradient of the radiation stress) output from SWAN is used to drive the currents in the circulation model. The circulation model is based on the free-surface non-linear shallow water equations and uses the fourth order compact scheme to calculate spatial derivatives and a third order Adams-Bashforth time discretization scheme. Free slip, symmetry boundary conditions are applied at both the shoreline and offshore boundaries. The time averaged sediment flux is calculated at each location after one hour of circulation. The sediment flux model is based on the approach of Bagnold and includes approximations for both bed-load and suspended load. The bathymetry is then updated by computing the divergence of the time averaged sediment fluxes. The process is then repeated using the updated bathymetry in both SWAN and the circulation model. The cycle continues for a simulation of 10 hours. The results of bathymetric change vary for different time-dependent wave conditions and initial bathymetric profiles. Typical results indicate that for wave heights on the order of one meter, shoreline advancement and sandbar evolution is observed on the order of tens of centimeters.

Wave-driven sediment mobilization on a storm-controlled continental shelf (Northwest Iberia)

USGS Publications Warehouse

Oberle, Ferdinand; Storlazzi, Curt D.; Hanebuth, Till

2014-01-01

Seafloor sediment mobilization on the inner Northwest Iberian continental shelf is caused largely by ocean surface waves. The temporal and spatial variability in the wave height, wave period, and wave direction has a profound effect on local sediment mobilization, leading to distinct sediment mobilization scenarios. Six grain-size specific sediment mobilization scenarios, representing seasonal average and storm conditions, were simulated with a physics-based numerical model. Model inputs included meteorological and oceanographic data in conjunction with seafloor grain-size and the shelf bathymetric data. The results show distinct seasonal variations, most importantly in wave height, leading to sediment mobilization, specifically on the inner shelf shallower than 30 m water depth where up to 49% of the shelf area is mobilized. Medium to severe storm events are modeled to mobilize up to 89% of the shelf area above 150 m water depth. The frequency of each of these seasonal and storm-related sediment mobilization scenarios is addressed using a decade of meteorological and oceanographic data. The temporal and spatial patterns of the modeled sediment mobilization scenarios are discussed in the context of existing geological and environmental processes and conditions to assist scientific, industrial and environmental efforts that are directly affected by sediment mobilization. Examples, where sediment mobilization plays a vital role, include seafloor nutrient advection, recurrent arrival of oil from oil-spill-laden seafloor sediment, and bottom trawling impacts.

Modelling of sediment transport pattern in the mouth of the Rhone delta: Role of storm and flood events

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Boudet, L.; Sabatier, F.; Radakovitch, O.

2017-11-01

The delta of the Rhone River is one of the most important in the Mediterranean Sea. Beach erosion problems along its coasts have developed in recent decades, raising the need for a better understanding of the sediment transport processes at the Rhone mouth and the adjacent beaches. Because field data are very difficult to obtain in such an energetic environment, a high-resolution numerical model (Delft3D) is applied to this area. This model is calibrated by taking into account hydrodynamical and morphological observations. Special attention is given to storm and flood events, which are the major morphological drivers. Therefore, scenarios with different wave and flow conditions are run to estimate the influence of these events on the sediment transport. The analysis of historical hydrological data shows that storms from the southeast represent 70% of the events between 1979 to 2010 and that 20% of them were followed by a flood within a few days. Consequently, specific simulations for such conditions are performed using Delft3D. The model simulates trends in the bedload sediment transport that are consistent with the bedforms observed in the bathymetry data. The total sediment transport at the outlet is only influenced by the river flow, but sediment transport at the mouth-bar depends on an equilibrium between the influence of floods and storms and the succession of these events. A period of 2 or 3 days separating the storm and flood peaks is sufficient to differentiate wave and river flow-induced sediment transport. The waves constrain the total transport on the mouth-bar and shallow mouth-lobe and induce a longshore transfer towards the adjacent beaches. The riverine sediments can be exported seaward only if a flood is energetic enough compared to the storm intensity. Regardless, when a flood is greater than the decadal return period (7800 m3 s-1), the sediment is transported from the outlet across the mouth-bar and is directed offshore.

Effects of wave shape on sheet flow sediment transport

USGS Publications Warehouse

Hsu, T.-J.; Hanes, D.M.

2004-01-01

A two-phase model is implemented to study the effects of wave shape on the transport of coarse-grained sediment in the sheet flow regime. The model is based on balance equations for the average mass, momentum, and fluctuation energy for both the fluid and sediment phases. Model simulations indicate that the responses of the sheet flow, such as the velocity profiles, the instantaneous bed shear stress, the sediment flux, and the total amount of the mobilized sediment, cannot be fully parameterized by quasi-steady free-stream velocity and may be correlated with the magnitude of local horizontal pressure gradient (or free-stream acceleration). A net sediment flux in the direction of wave advance is obtained for both skewed and saw-tooth wave shapes typical of shoaled and breaking waves. The model further suggests that at critical values of the horizontal pressure gradient, there is a failure event within the bed that mobilizes more sediment into the mobile sheet and enhances the sediment flux. Preliminary attempts to parameterize the total bed shear stress and the total sediment flux appear promising. Copyright 2004 by the American Geophysical Union.

The South Carolina Coastal Erosion Study: Integrated Circulation and Sediment Transport Studies. A Project Overview.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Voulgaris, G.; Warner, J. C.; Work, P. A.; Hanes, D. M.; Haas, K. A.

2004-12-01

The South Carolina Coastal Erosion Study (SCCES) is a cooperative research program funded by the U.S. Geological Survey Coastal and Marine Geology Program and managed by the South Carolina Sea Grant Consortium. The main objective of the study is to understand the factors and processes that control coastal sediment movement along the northern part of the South Carolina coast while at the same time advance our basic understanding of circulation, wave propagation and sediment transport processes. Earlier geological framework studies carried out by the same program provided detailed data on bathymetry, bottom sediment thickness and grain size distribution. They identified an extensive (10km long, 2km wide) sand body deposit located in the inner shelf that has potential use for beach nourishment. The main objectives are to: (1) identify the role of wind-driven circulation in controlling regional sediment distribution on the SC shelf; (2) examine the hypothesis that the shoal is of the "fair-weather type" with bedload being the dominant sediment transport mode and the tidally-averaged flow being at different directions at the two flanks of the shoal; (3) investigate the possibility that the sediment source for the shoal is derived from the nearshore as the result of the convergence of the longshore sediment transport; and finally, (4) quantify the control that the shoal exerts on the nearshore conditions through changes on the wave energy propagation characteristics. Field measurements and numerical modeling techniques are utilized in this project. Two deployments of oceanographic and sediment transport systems took place for a period of 6 months (October 2003 to April 2004) measuring wind forcing, vertical distribution of currents, stratification, and wave spectral characteristics. Further, bed-flow interactions were measured at two locations, with instrumented tripods equipped with pairs of ADVs for measuring turbulence, PC-ADPs for measuring vertical current profiles in the near bed and OBS and ABS for measuring suspended sediment concentrations. The numerical modeling effort utilizes ROMS for 3-D coastal circulation, SWAN for wave propagation on the inner shelf, and SHORECIRC for circulation in the nearshore. As part of the nearshore component of this project a focused short-term surf zone experiment was also carried out.

Implication of seismic attenuation for gas hydrate resource characterization, Mallik, Mackenzie Delta, Canada

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bellefleur, G.; Riedel, M.; Brent, T.; Wright, F.; Dallimore, S. R.

2007-10-01

Wave attenuation is an important physical property of hydrate-bearing sediments that is rarely taken into account in site characterization with seismic data. We present a field example showing improved images of hydrate-bearing sediments on seismic data after compensation of attenuation effects. Compressional quality factors estimated from zero-offset Vertical Seismic Profiling data acquired at Mallik, Northwest Territories, Canada, demonstrate significant wave attenuation for hydrate-bearing sediments. These results are in agreement with previous attenuation estimates obtained from sonic logs and crosshole data at different frequency intervals. The application of an inverse Q-filter to compensate attenuation effects of permafrost and hydrate-bearing sediments improved the resolution of surface 3D seismic data and its correlation with log data, particularly for the shallowest gas hydrate interval. Compensation of the attenuation effects of the permafrost likely explains most of the improvements for the shallow gas hydrate zone. Our results show that characterization of the Mallik gas hydrates with seismic data not corrected for attenuation would tend to overestimate thicknesses and lateral extent of hydrate-bearing strata and hence, the volume of hydrates in place.

Nearshore Coastal Dynamics on a Sea-Breeze Dominated Micro-Tidal Beach (NCSAL)

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Torres-Freyermuth, A.; Puleo, J. A.; Ruiz de Alegría-Arzaburu, A.; Figlus, J.; Mendoza, T.; Pintado-Patino, J. C.; Pieterse, A.; Chardon-Maldonado, P.; DiCosmo, N. R.; Wellman, N.; Garcia-Nava, H.; Palemón-Arcos, L.; Roberts, T.; López-González, J.; Bravo, M.; Ojeda, E.; Medellín, G.; Appendini, C. M.; Figueroa, B.; González-Leija, M.; Enriquez, C.; Pedrozo-Acuña, A.; Salles, P.

2014-12-01

A comprehensive field experiment devoted to the study of coastal processes on a micro-tidal beach was conducted from March 30th to April 12th 2014 in Sisal, Yucatán México. Wave conditions in the study area are controlled by local (i.e., sea-breezes) and meso-scale (i.e., Nortes) meteorological events. Simultaneous measurements of waves, tides, winds, currents, sediment transport, runup, and beach morphology were obtained in this experiment. Very dense nearshore instrumentation arrays allow us the study of the cross-/along- shore variability of surf/swash zone dynamics during different forcing conditions. Strong sea-breeze wind events produced a diurnal cycle with a maximum wind speed of 14 m/s. The persistent sea-breeze system forces small-amplitude (Hs<1 m) short-period (Tp<4 s) NE waves approaching with a high incidence wave angle. These wave conditions drive westward alongshore currents of up to 0.6 m/s in the inner surf zone and hence produce an active sediment transport in the swash zone. On the other hand, the more energetic (Hs>1 m) Norte event, lasting 48 hours, reached the coast on April 8th generating a long-period swell (Tp>10 s) arriving from the NNW. This event induced an eastward net sediment transport across a wide surf zone. However, long-term observations of sand impoundment at a groin located near the study area suggests that the net sediment transport in the northern Yucatan peninsula is controlled by sea-breeze events and hence swash zone dynamics play an important role in the net sediment budget of this region. A comparative study of surf and swash zone dynamics during both sea-breeze and Norte events will be presented. The Institute of Engineering of UNAM, throughout an International Collaborative Project with the University of Delaware, and CONACYT (CB-167692) provided financial support. The first author acknowledges ONR Global for providing financial support throughout the Visiting Scientist Program.

Evolution of a sediment wave in an experimental channel

Treesearch

Thomas E. Lisle; James E. Pizzuto; Hiroshi Ikeda; Fujiko Iseya; Yoshinori Kodama

1997-01-01

Abstract - The routing of bed material through channels is poorly understood. We approach the problem by observing and modeling the fate of a low-amplitude sediment wave of poorly sorted sand that we introduced into an experimental channel transporting sediment identical to that of the introduced wave. The wave essentially dispersed upstream and downstream without...

Finescale turbulence and seabed scouring around pneumatophores in a wave-exposed mangrove forest

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Mullarney, J. C.; Norris, B. K.; Henderson, S. M.; Bryan, K. R.

2015-12-01

Coastal mangroves provide a barrier between the coast and lower energy intertidal environments. The presence of mangrove roots (pneumatophores) alters local hydrodynamics by slowing currents, dissipating waves, enhancing within-canopy turbulence, and introducing significant spatial variability to the flow, particularly on the stem scale. To date, limited measurements exist within pneumatophore regions owing to the difficulties of measuring on sufficiently small scales. Hence, little is known about the turbulence controlling sediment transport within these regions. We report unique field observations near the seaward edge of a mangrove forest in the Mekong Delta, Vietnam. This forest is exposed to moderate wave energy (maximum heights of around 1 m), with waves observed to propagate and break up to 100 m inside the forest. Our measurements focus on a rapidly prograding area with a relatively sandy substrate and a gentle topographic slope. We resolved millimeter-scale turbulent flows within and above the pneumatophore canopy. Precise measurements of vegetation densities as a function of height were obtained using photogrammetry techniques. The dissipation rate of turbulent kinetic energy was enhanced at the canopy edge (ɛ ~ 10-4 W/kg), and decreased with distance into the forest (ɛ ~ 10-5 W/kg), although rates remained elevated above values measured on the tidal flat immediately offshore of the mangroves (ɛ ~ 10-6 W/kg). The dependence of turbulence on vegetation characteristics and on the stage of the tidal cycle is explored. The hydrodynamic measurements are then linked with changes in bathymetric features noted after a large wave event. Finer mud sediments were deposited outside the forest on the intertidal mudflat, whereas sandy sediments in the fringe region were significant scoured around regions of dense pneumatophores, and sediment mounds developed in the gaps between pneumatophores.

Shipboard magnetic field "noise" reveals shallow heavy mineral sediment concentrations in Chesapeake Bay

USGS Publications Warehouse

Shah, Anjana K.; Vogt, Peter R.; Rosenbaum, Joseph G.; Newell, Wayne L.; Cronin, Thomas M.; Willard, Debra A.; Hagen, Rick A.; Brozena, John; Hofstra, Albert

2012-01-01

Shipboard magnetic field data collected over Chesapeake Bay exhibit low-amplitude, short-wavelength anomalies that most likely indicate shallow concentrations of heavy mineral sediments. Piston core layers and black sand beach samples exhibit enhanced magnetic susceptibilities and carry remanent magnetization, with mineralogical analyses indicating ilmenite and trace magnetite and/or maghemite and hematite. The anomalies are subtle and would be filtered as noise using traditional approaches, but can instead be highlighted using spectral methods, thus providing nearly continuous coverage along survey tracks. The distribution of the anomalies provides constraints on relevant sorting mechanisms. Comparisons to sonar data and previous grab samples show that two of three areas surveyed exhibit short-wavelength anomalies that are clustered over sand-covered areas, suggesting initial sorting through settling mechanisms. This is supported by a correlation between core magnetic susceptibility and grain size. Near the Choptank River, where sediment resuspension is wave-dominated, anomalies show a sharp decrease with seafloor depth that cannot be explained by signal attenuation alone. In Pocomoke Sound, where both tidal currents and wave-action impact sediment resuspension, anomalies show a more gradual decrease with depth. Near the mouth of the bay, where there is a higher influx of sediments from the continental shelf, short-wavelength anomalies are isolated and do not appear to represent heavy mineral sand concentrations. These combined observations suggest the importance of further sorting by erosional processes in certain parts of the bay. Additionally, comparisons of these data to cores sampling pre-Holocene sediments suggest that the sorting of heavy minerals in higher energy, shallow water environments provides a mechanism for correlations between core magnetic susceptibility and sea-level changes.

Wave-Sediment Interaction in Muddy Environments: A Field Experiment

DTIC Science & Technology

2009-01-01

Geosciences project includes a field experiment on the Atchafalaya shelf, Louisiana, in Years 1 and 2 (2007-2008) and a data analysis and modeling effort in... analysis procedures. During the major field experiment effort in 2008 (Year 2), a total of 5 tripods were deployed at locations fronting the Atchafalaya...experiment effort. This final year of the project (2009, Year 3) has been focused upon data analysis and preparation of publications. APPROACH

Hydro- and morphodynamic tsunami simulations for the Ambrakian Gulf (Greece) and comparison with geoscientific field traces

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Röbke, B. R.; Schüttrumpf, H.; Vött, A.

2018-04-01

In order to derive local tsunami risks for a particular coast, hydro- and morphodynamic numerical models that are calibrated and compared with sedimentary field data of past tsunami impacts have proven very effective. While this approach has widely been used with regard to recent tsunami events, comparable investigations into pre-/historical tsunami impacts hardly exist, which is the objective of this study focusing on the Ambrakian Gulf in northwestern Greece. The Ambrakian Gulf is located in the most active seismotectonic and by this most tsunamigenic area of the Mediterranean. Accordingly, palaeotsunami field studies have revealed repeated tsunami impacts on the gulf during the past 8000 yr. The current study analyses 151 vibracores of the Ambrakian Gulf coast in order to evaluate tsunami signals in the sedimentary record. Based on a hydro- and morphodynamic numerical model of the study area, various tsunami waves are simulated with the aim of finding scenarios that compare favourably with tsunami deposits detected in the field. Both, field data and simulation results suggest a decreasing tsunami influence from the western to the eastern Ambrakian Gulf. Various scenarios are needed to explain tsunami deposits in different parts of the gulf. Whereas shorter period tsunami waves (T = 30 min) from the south and west compare favourably with field data in the western gulf, longer period waves (T = 80 min) from a western direction show the best agreement with tsunami sediments detected in southwestern Aktio Headland and in the more central parts of the Ambrakian Gulf including Lake Voulkaria. Tsunamis from the southwest generally do not accord with field traces. Besides the spatial sediment distribution, the numerical model accurately reflects the sedimentary composition of the detected event deposits and reproduces a number of essential features typical of tsunamites, which were also observed in the field. Such include fining- and thinning-landward and the marine character of the deposits. By contrast, the simulated thickness of tsunami sediments usually lags behind the observed thickness in the field and some event layers cannot be explained by any of the simulated scenarios. Regarding the frequency of past tsunami events and their spatial dimensions indicated by both field data and simulation results, a high tsunami risk has to be derived for the Ambrakian Gulf.

The effect of pneumatophore density on turbulence: A field study in a Sonneratia-dominated mangrove forest, Vietnam

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Norris, Benjamin K.; Mullarney, Julia C.; Bryan, Karin R.; Henderson, Stephen M.

2017-09-01

This paper examines the role of mangrove pneumatophore roots as a spatial control over the turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) dissipation rate within a natural mangrove forest. Measurements of turbulence at millimeter scales were compared with vegetation geometries reconstructed using a novel photogrammetric technique. These small-scale relationships were then averaged to show larger-scale patterns in turbulence across the mudflat and mangrove fringe-forest transition. Although turbulence estimates varied with across-shore position, TKE dissipation was always elevated in the fringe relative to mudflat and forest interior sample sites. The largest dissipation rates (4.5 × 10-3 W kg-1) were measured as breaking waves propagated over canopies in very shallow water. Dissipation was reduced, but often remained intense (10-5-10-4 W kg-1) under non-breaking waves at the fringe, likely indicating turbulent generation in pneumatophore wakes. Pneumatophore density was positively correlated with the spatial distribution of TKE dissipation. Turbulence was also correlated positively with wave height and negatively with water depth. Fringe sediments were more sandy and less muddy than sediments onshore and offshore, suggesting that the intense turbulence may lead to winnowing of fine-grained sediments at the fringe.

Modeling Small-Scale Nearshore Processes

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Slinn, D.; Holland, T.; Puleo, J.; Puleo, J.; Hanes, D.

2001-12-01

In recent years advances in high performance computing have made it possible to gain new qualitative and quantitative insights into the behavior and effects of coastal processes using high-resolution physical-mathematical models. The Coastal Dynamics program at the U.S. Office of Naval Research under the guidance of Dr. Thomas Kinder has encouraged collaboration between modelers, theoreticians, and field and laboratory experimentalists and supported innovative modeling efforts to examine a wide range of nearshore processes. An area of emphasis has been small-scale, time-dependent, turbulent flows, such as the wave bottom boundary layer, breaking surface waves, and the swash zone and their effects on shoaling waves, mean currents, and sediment transport that integrate to impact the long-term and large-scale response of the beach system to changing environmental conditions. Examples of small-scale modeling studies supported by CD-321 related to our work include simulation of the wave bottom boundary layer. Under mild wave field conditions the seabed forms sand ripples and simulations demonstrate that the ripples cause increases in the bed friction, the kinetic energy dissipation rates, the boundary layer thickness, and turbulence in the water column. Under energetic wave field conditions the ripples are sheared smooth and sheet flow conditions can predominate, causing the top few layers of sand grains to move as a fluidized bed, making large aggregate contributions to sediment transport. Complementary models of aspects of these processes have been developed simultaneously in various directions (e.g., Jenkins and Hanes, JFM 1998; Drake and Calantoni, 2001; Trowbridge and Madsen, JGR, 1984). Insight into near-bed fluid-sediment interactions has also been advanced using Navier-Stokes based models of swash events. Our recent laboratory experiments at the Waterways Experiment Station demonstrate that volume-of-fluid models can predict salient features of swash uprush-backwash interactions under controlled conditions. While much has been achieved towards understanding the intricacies of these natural systems using nonlinear models, many questions remain to challenge future engineers and scientists. During his tenure at ONR, Tom Kinder has championed the importance of nearshore science and increased resources within the area, made accomplishments visible to the broader ocean community, increased communication between researchers through comprehensive initiatives, field experiments and workshops, helped develop 10 year plans focusing future priorities, maintained a stable environment for researchers, and encouraged them to tackle the hardest (most interesting) problems and to develop new tools along the way with which to solve them.

Modeling Sediment Bypassing around Rocky Headlands

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

George, D. A.; Largier, J. L.; Pasternack, G. B.; Erikson, L. H.; Storlazzi, C. D.; Barnard, P.

2016-12-01

Sediment bypassing rocky headlands remains understudied despite the importance of characterizing littoral processes and sediment budgets for erosion abatement, climate change adaptation, and beach management. This study was developed to identify controlling factors on and the mechanisms supporting sediment bypassing. Sediment flux around four idealized rocky headlands was investigated using the hydrodynamic model Delft3D and spectral wave model SWAN. The experimental design involved 120 simulations to explore the influence of headland morphology, substrate composition, sediment grain size, and oceanographic forcing. Headlands represented sizes and shapes found in natural settings, grain sizes ranged from fine to medium sand, and substrates from sandy beds to offshore bedrock reefs. The oceanography included a constructed representative tide, an alongshore background current, and four wave conditions derived from observational records in the eastern Pacific Ocean. A bypassing ratio was developed for alongshore flux between upstream and downstream cross-shore transects to determine the degree of blockage by a headland. Results showed that northwesterly oblique large waves (Hs = 7 m, Tp = 16 s) generated the most flux around headlands, whereas directly incident waves blocked flux across a headland apex. The headland shape heavily influenced the sediment fate by changing the relative angle between the shoreline and the incident waves. The bypassing ratio characterized each headland's capacity to allow alongshore flux under different wave conditions. All headlands may allow flux, although larger ones block sediment more effectively, promoting their ability to be littoral cell boundaries compared to smaller headlands. The controlling factors on sediment bypassing were determined to be wave angle, shape and size of the headland, and sediment grain size. This novel numerical modeling study advances headland modeling from the generic realm to broadly applicable classes of headlands and encourages further investigation into the mechanics of sediment bypassing.

Influence of Vegetation on Sediment Accumulation in Restored Tidal Saltmarshes: Field Evidence from the Blackwater Estuary, Essex, UK

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Price, D.; French, J.; Burningham, H.

2013-12-01

Tidal saltmarshes in the UK, and especially in the estuaries of southeast England, have been subject to degradation and erosion over the last few decades, primarily caused by sea-level rise and coastal squeeze due to fixed coastal defences. This is of great concern to a range of coastal stakeholders due to the corresponding loss of functions and services associated with these systems. The coastal defence role that saltmarshes play is well established, and the importance of saltmarsh ecosystems as habitats for birds, fish, and other species is evidenced in the fact that a large proportion of saltmarsh in the southeast England is designated for its scientific and conservation significance. Sediment accumulation is critical for the maintenance of marsh elevation within the tidal frame and for delivery of the aforementioned functions and services. Although many studies have examined accumulation processes, key questions have yet to be fully tested through intensive field observations. One such question relates to the role of vegetation in mediating the retention of newly introduced sediment, as recent research has called into doubt the traditional view of halophytes significantly enhancing rates of sedimentation through wave dissipation. This study presents early results from a project designed to advance our understanding of the processes controlling sediment accumulation. The research focuses on the UK's first large-scale experimental managed flood defence realignment at Tollesbury, Blackwater estuary, Essex. The seawall protecting 21ha of reclaimed agricultural land was artificially breached in 1995 and saltmarsh has progressively developed as tidal exchange has introduced fine sediment into the site. Results from a 12 month monitoring campaign involving hierarchical two-week sediment trap deployments indicates that the role of vegetation in marsh development is less clear cut that previously thought. Gross sedimentation rates were generally higher in non-vegetated areas, even when other influences, such as elevation were removed. However, sediment retention at the vegetated sites was higher, at times double that in the bare areas. This implies that vegetation acts primarily to inhibit sediment resuspension by waves rather than by favouring deposition from tidal flows.

Interaction of oil and mineral fines on shorelines: review and assessment.

PubMed

Owens, Edward H; Lee, Kenneth

2003-01-01

The interaction of fine mineral particles with stranded oil in an aqueous medium reduces the adhesion of the oil to solid surfaces, such as sediments or bedrock. The net result is the formation of stable, micron-sized, oil droplets that disperse into the water column. In turn, the increase in surface area makes the oil more available for biodegradation. This interaction, referred to as oil-mineral aggregate (OMA) formation, can explain how oiled shorelines are cleaned naturally in the absence of wave action in very sheltered coastal environments. OMA formation also plays an important role in the efficacy of shoreline treatment techniques, such as physical mixing and sediment relocation that move oiled sediments into the zone of wave action to promote the interaction between oil and mineral fines. Successful application of these shoreline treatment options has been demonstrated at two spill events (the Tampa Bay response in Florida and the Sea Empress operation in Wales) and at a controlled oil spill experiment in the field (the 1997 Svalbard ITOSS program). Sediment relocation harnesses the hydraulic action of waves so that the processes of fine-particle interaction and physical abrasion usually occur in tandem on open coasts. There has been no evidence of significant detrimental side-effects of residual oil in pelagic or benthic environments associated with the use of these treatment options to enhance rates of dispersion and oil biodegradation.

Estimating the sound speed of a shallow-water marine sediment from the head wave excited by a low-flying helicopter.

PubMed

Bevans, Dieter A; Buckingham, Michael J

2017-10-01

The frequency bandwidth of the sound from a light helicopter, such as a Robinson R44, extends from about 13 Hz to 2.5 kHz. As such, the R44 has potential as a low-frequency sound source in underwater acoustics applications. To explore this idea, an experiment was conducted in shallow water off the coast of southern California in which a horizontal line of hydrophones detected the sound of an R44 hovering in an end-fire position relative to the array. Some of the helicopter sound interacted with seabed to excite the head wave in the water column. A theoretical analysis of the sound field in the water column generated by a stationary airborne source leads to an expression for the two-point horizontal coherence function of the head wave, which, apart from frequency, depends only on the sensor separation and the sediment sound speed. By matching the zero crossings of the measured and theoretical horizontal coherence functions, the sound speed in the sediment was recovered and found to take a value of 1682.42 ± 16.20 m/s. This is consistent with the sediment type at the experiment site, which is known from a previous survey to be a fine to very-fine sand.

Field observations of bed shear stress and sediment resuspension on continental shelves, Alaska and California

USGS Publications Warehouse

Drake, D.E.; Cacchione, D.A.

1986-01-01

Bed shear stress was estimated using wave and current measurements obtained with the GEOPROBE bottom-tripod system during resuspension events in Norton Sound, Alaska, and on the northern California shelf. The boundary-layer model of Grant and Madsen (1979, Journal of Geophysical Research, 84, 1797-1808) was used to compute the bed shear stress under combined wave-generated and quasi-steady currents. Resuspension events were identified by sudden, large increases in light scattering at 1.9 m above the sea floor. The shear-stress values were used to compute the Shields parameter (??). The results for Norton Sound are in excellent agreement with the Shields threshold criterion; the data for the California shelf plot somewhat above the Shields threshold curve, though generally within the scatter envelope. Although the surface sediments in each area contain substantial fine-grained fractions (mean diameters were 0.007 cm in Norton Sound and 0.002 cm on the California shelf), the results do not indicate significant cohesion, because the sediment was entrained at bed shear-stress values close to those predicted by the modified Shields curve for cohesionless fine-grained particles. We suspect that frequent wave stirring and observed plowing of the surface sediment by benthonic animals maintain a high water content and contribute to the ease with which these materials are resuspended. ?? 1986.

In-situ erosion of cohesive sediment in a large shallow lake experiencing long-term decline in wind speed

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wu, Tingfeng; Timo, Huttula; Qin, Boqiang; Zhu, Guangwei; Janne, Ropponen; Yan, Wenming

2016-08-01

In order to address the major factors affecting cohesive sediment erosion using high-frequency in-situ observations in Lake Taihu, and the response of this erosion to long-term decline in wind speed, high-frequency meteorological, hydrological and turbidity sensors were deployed to record continuous field wind-induced wave, current and sediment erosion processes; Statistical analyses and mathematic modeling spanning 44 years were also conducted. The results revealed that the unconsolidated surficial cohesive sediment frequently experiences the processes of erosion, suspension and deposition. Wind waves, generated by the absorption of wind energy, are the principal force driving this cycle. When the wavelength-to-water depth ratio (L/D) is 2-3, wave propagation is affected by lakebed friction and surface erosion occurs. When L/D > 3, the interaction between wave and lakebed increases to induce massive erosion. However, influenced by rapid urbanization in the Lake Taihu basin, wind speed has significantly decreased, by an average rate of -0.022 m s-1 a-1, from 1970 to 2013. This has reduced the erodible area, represented by simulated L/D, at a rate of -16.9 km2 a-1 in the autumn and winter, and -8.1 km2 a-1 in the spring and summer. This significant decrease in surface erosion area, and the near disappearance of areas experiencing massive erosion, imply that Lake Taihu has become calmer, which can be expected to have adverse effects on the lake ecosystem by increasing eutrophication and nuisance cyanobacteria blooms.

Shear wave velocities of unconsolidated shallow sediments in the Gulf of Mexico

USGS Publications Warehouse

Lee, Myung W.

2013-01-01

Accurate shear-wave velocities for shallow sediments are important for a variety of seismic applications such as inver-sion and amplitude versus offset analysis. During the U.S. Department of Energy-sponsored Gas Hydrate Joint Industry Project Leg II, shear-wave velocities were measured at six wells in the Gulf of Mexico using the logging-while-drilling SonicScope acoustic tool. Because the tool measurement point was only 35 feet from the drill bit, the adverse effect of the borehole condition, which is severe for the shallow unconsolidated sediments in the Gulf of Mexico, was mini-mized and accurate shear-wave velocities of unconsolidated sediments were measured. Measured shear-wave velocities were compared with the shear-wave velocities predicted from the compressional-wave velocities using empirical formulas and the rock physics models based on the Biot-Gassmann theory, and the effectiveness of the two prediction methods was evaluated. Although the empirical equation derived from measured shear-wave data is accurate for predicting shear-wave velocities for depths greater than 500 feet in these wells, the three-phase Biot-Gassmann-theory -based theory appears to be optimum for predicting shear-wave velocities for shallow unconsolidated sediments in the Gulf of Mexico.

Wave-current interaction: Effect on the wave field in a semi-enclosed basin

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Benetazzo, A.; Carniel, S.; Sclavo, M.; Bergamasco, A.

2013-10-01

The effect on waves of the Wave-Current Interaction (WCI) process in the semi-enclosed Gulf of Venice (northern region of the Adriatic Sea) was investigated using the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system. COAWST relies on the ocean model ROMS (Regional Ocean Modeling System), the wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore), and the CSTMS (Community Sediment Transport Modeling System) routines. The two-way data transfer between circulation and wave models was synchronous via MCT (Model Coupling Toolkit), with ROMS providing: current field, free surface elevation, and bathymetry to SWAN. For coupling, the 3-D current profiles were averaged using a formulation which integrated the near-surface velocity over a depth controlled by the spectral mean wavenumber. COAWST system was implemented on a parent grid (with horizontal resolution of 2.0 km) covering the whole Adriatic Sea with one-way nesting to a child grid resolving the northern area (Gulf of Venice) at a resolution of 0.5 km. The meteorological forcings provided by the operational meteorological model COSMO-I7 (a mesoscale model developed in the framework of the COSMO Consortium) were used to drive the modeling system in the period bracketing September 2010-August 2011. The adopted winds and the simulated waves were compared with observations at the CNR-ISMAR Acqua Alta oceanographic tower, located off the Venice littoral. Wave heights and sea surface winds were also compared with satellite-derived data. The analysis of WCI was performed on the child grid over the winter season (January-March 2011) with particular focus on the waves generated by prevailing and dominant winds blowing on the Adriatic Sea: Bora and Sirocco. Due to the variable wind direction with respect to the ocean current direction different effects on WCI were depicted, showing that within the northern Adriatic Sea the ocean-wave interactions are strongly dependent on the wind forcing direction. Further investigations reveal that, when applied to intense storms, the effect of coupling on waves results in variations of significant wave height up to 0.6 m, with some areas experiencing significant increase/decrease of wave spectral energy for opposite/following currents respectively.

Sediment resuspension and bed armoring during high bottom stress events on the northern California inner continental shelf: measurements and predictions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wiberg, Patricia L.; Drake, David E.; Cacchione, David A.

1994-08-01

Geoprobe bottom tripods were deployed during the winter of 1990-1991 on the northern California inner continental shelf as part of the STRESS field experiment. Transmissometer measurements of light beam attenuation were made at two levels and current velocity was measured at four levels in the bottom 1.2 m of water. Intervals of high measured bottom wave velocity were generally correlated with times of both high attenuation and high attenuation gradient in the bottom meter of the water column. Measured time series of light attenuation and attenuation gradient are compared to values computed using a modified version of the SMITH [(1977) The sea, Vol. 6, Wiley-Interscience, New York, pp. 539-577] steady wave-current bottom-boundary-layer model. Size-dependent transmissometer calibrations, which show significantly enhanced attenuation with decreasing grain size, are used to convert calculated suspended sediment concentration to light attenuation. The finest fractions of the bed, which are the most easily suspended and attenuate the most light, dominate the computed attenuation signal although they comprise only about 5-7% of the bed sediment. The calculations indicate that adjusting the value of the coefficient γ 0 in the expression for near-bed sediment concentration cannot in itself give both the correct magnitudes of light attenuation and attenuation gradient. To supply the volumes of fine sediment computed to be in suspension during peak events, even with values of γ 0 as low as 5 × 10 -5, requires suspension of particles from unreasonably large depths in the bed. A limit on the depth of sediment availability is proposed as a correction to suspended sediment calculations. With such a limit, reasonable attenuation values are computed with γ 0 ≈ 0.002. The effects of limiting availability and employing a higher γ 0 are to reduce the volume of the finest sediment in suspension and to increase the suspended volumes of the coarser fractions. As a consequence, the average size and settling velocity of suspended sediment increases as bottom shear stress increases, with accompanying increases in near-bed concentration gradients. Higher concentration gradients produce larger stratification effects, particularly near the top of the wave boundary layer at times when wave shear velocities are high and current shear velocities are low. These are the conditions under which maximum attenuation gradients are observed.

Sediment resuspension and bed armoring during high bottom stress events on the northern California inner continental shelf: measurements and predictions

USGS Publications Warehouse

Wiberg, P.L.; Drake, D.E.; Cacchione, D.A.

1994-01-01

Geoprobe bottom tripods were deployed during the winter of 1990-1991 on the northern California inner continental shelf as part of the STRESS field experiment. Transmissometer measurements of light beam attenuation were made at two levels and current velocity was measured at four levels in the bottom 1.2 m of water. Intervals of high measured bottom wave velocity were generally correlated with times of both high attenuation and high attenuation gradient in the bottom meter of the water column. Measured time series of light attenuation and attenuation gradient are compared to values computed using a modified version of the Smith [(1977) The sea, Vol. 6, Wiley-Interscience, New York, pp. 539-577] steady wave-current bottom-boundary-layer model. Size-dependent transmissometer calibrations, which show significantly enhanced attenuation with decreasing grain size, are used to convert calculated suspended sediment concentration to light attenuation. The finest fractions of the bed, which are the most easily suspended and attenuate the most light, dominate the computed attenuation signal although they comprise only about 5-7% of the bed sediment. The calculations indicate that adjusting the value of the coefficient ??0 in the expression for near-bed sediment concentration cannot in itself give both the correct magnitudes of light attenuation and attenuation gradient. To supply the volumes of fine sediment computed to be in suspension during peak events, even with values of ??0 as low as 5 ?? 10-5, requires suspension of particles from unreasonably large depths in the bed. A limit on the depth of sediment availability is proposed as a correction to suspended sediment calculations. With such a limit, reasonable attenuation values are computed with ??0 ??? 0.002. The effects of limiting availability and employing a higher ??0 are to reduce the volume of the finest sediment in suspension and to increase the suspended volumes of the coarser fractions. As a consequence, the average size and settling velocity of suspended sediment increases as bottom shear stress increases, with accompanying increases in near-bed concentration gradients. Higher concentration gradients produce larger stratification effects, particularly near the top of the wave boundary layer at times when wave shear velocities are high and current shear velocities are low. These are the conditions under which maximum attenuation gradients are observed. ?? 1994.

Bottom boundary layer spectral dissipation estimates in the presence of wave motions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gross, T. F.; Williams, A. J.; Terray, E. A.

1994-08-01

Turbulence measurements are an essential element of the Sediment TRansport Events on Shelves and Slopes experiment (STRESS). Sediment transport under waves is initiated within the wave boundary layer at the seabed, at most a few tens of centimeters deep. The suspended load is carried by turbulent diffusion above the wave boundary layer. Quantification of the turbulent diffusion active above the wave boundary layer requires estimates of shear stress or energy dissipation in the presence of oscillating flows. Measurements by Benthic Acoustic Stress Sensors of velocity fluctuations were used to derive the dissipation rate from the energy level of the spectral inertial range (the -5/3 spectrum). When the wave orbital velocity is of similar magnitude to the mean flow, kinematic effects on the estimation techniques of stress and dissipation must be included. Throughout the STRESS experiment there was always significant wave energy affecting the turbulent bottom boundary layer. LUMLEY and TERRAY [(1983) Journal of Physical Oceanography, 13, 2000-2007] presented a theory describing the effect of orbital motions on kinetic energy spectra. Their model is used here with observations of spectra taken within a turbulent boundary layer which is affected by wave motion. While their method was an explicit solution for circular wave orbits aligned with mean current we extrapolated it to the case of near bed horizontal motions, not aligned with the current. The necessity of accounting for wave orbital motion is demonstrated, but variability within the field setting limited our certainty of the improvement in accuracy the corrections afforded.

Quantity, composition, and source of sediment collected in sediment traps along the fringing coral reef off Molokai, Hawaii

USGS Publications Warehouse

Bothner, Michael H.; Reynolds, R.L.; Casso, M.A.; Storlazzi, C.D.; Field, M.E.

2006-01-01

Sediment traps were used to evaluate the frequency, cause, and relative intensity of sediment mobility/resuspension along the fringing coral reef off southern Molokai (February 2000–May 2002). Two storms with high rainfall, floods, and exceptionally high waves resulted in sediment collection rates > 1000 times higher than during non-storm periods, primarily because of sediment resuspension by waves. Based on quantity and composition of trapped sediment, floods recharged the reef flat with land-derived sediment, but had a low potential for burying coral on the fore reef when accompanied by high waves.The trapped sediments have low concentrations of anthropogenic metals. The magnetic properties of trapped sediment may provide information about the sources of land-derived sediment reaching the fore reef. The high trapping rate and low sediment cover indicate that coral surfaces on the fore reef are exposed to transient resuspended sediment, and that the traps do not measure net sediment accumulation on the reef surface.

Quantity, composition, and source of sediment collected in sediment traps along the fringing coral reef off Molokai, Hawaii.

PubMed

Bothner, Michael H; Reynolds, Richard L; Casso, Michael A; Storlazzi, Curt D; Field, Michael E

2006-09-01

Sediment traps were used to evaluate the frequency, cause, and relative intensity of sediment mobility/resuspension along the fringing coral reef off southern Molokai (February 2000-May 2002). Two storms with high rainfall, floods, and exceptionally high waves resulted in sediment collection rates>1000 times higher than during non-storm periods, primarily because of sediment resuspension by waves. Based on quantity and composition of trapped sediment, floods recharged the reef flat with land-derived sediment, but had a low potential for burying coral on the fore reef when accompanied by high waves. The trapped sediments have low concentrations of anthropogenic metals. The magnetic properties of trapped sediment may provide information about the sources of land-derived sediment reaching the fore reef. The high trapping rate and low sediment cover indicate that coral surfaces on the fore reef are exposed to transient resuspended sediment, and that the traps do not measure net sediment accumulation on the reef surface.

In situ time-series measurements of subseafloor sediment properties

USGS Publications Warehouse

Wheatcroft, R.A.; Stevens, A.W.; Johnson, R.V.

2007-01-01

The capabilities and diversity of subsurface sediment sensors lags significantly from what is available for the water column, thereby limiting progress in understanding time-dependent seabed exchange and high-frequency acoustics. To help redress this imbalance, a new instrument, the autonomous sediment profiler (ASP), is described herein. ASP consists of a four-electrode, Wenner-type resistivity probe and a thermistor that log data at 0.1-cm vertical intervals over a 58-cm vertical profile. To avoid resampling the same spot on the seafloor, the probes are moved horizontally within a 20 times 100-cm-2 area in one of three preselected patterns. Memory and power capacities permit sampling at hourly intervals for up to 3-mo duration. The system was tested in a laboratory tank and shown to be able to resolve high-frequency sediment consolidation, as well as changes in sediment roughness. In a field test off the southern coast of France, the system collected resistivity and temperature data at hourly intervals for 16 d. Coupled with environmental data collected on waves, currents, and suspended sediment, the ASP is shown to be useful for understanding temporal evolution of subsurface sediment porosity, although no large depositional or erosional events occurred during the deployment. Following a rapid decrease in bottom-water temperature, the evolution of the subsurface temperature field was consistent with the 1-D thermal diffusion equation coupled with advection in the upper 3-4 cm. Collectively, the laboratory and field tests yielded promising results on time-dependent seabed change.

Nearshore substrate and morphology offshore of the Elwha River, Washington

USGS Publications Warehouse

Warrick, J.A.; Cochrane, G.R.; Sagy, Y.; Gelfenbaum, G.

2008-01-01

The planned removal of two dams on the Elwha River, Washington, will likely increase river sediment flux to the coast, which may alter coastal habitats through sedimentation and turbidity. It is therefore important to characterize the current habitat conditions near the river mouth, so that future changes can be identified. Here we provide combined sonar and video mapping results of approximately 20 km2 of seafloor offshore of the Elwha River collected with the purpose to characterize nearshore substrate type and distribution prior to dam removal. These combined data suggest that the nearshore of the western delta and Freshwater Bay are dominated by coarse sediment (sand, gravel, cobble, and boulders) and bedrock outcrops; no fine-grained sediment (mud or silt) was identified within the survey limits. The substrate is generally coarser in Freshwater Bay and on the western flank of the delta, where boulders and bedrock outcrops occur, than directly offshore and east of the river mouth. High variation in substrate was observed within much of the study area, however, and distinct boulder fields, gravel beds and sand waves were observed with spatial scales of 10-100 m. Gravel beds and sand waves suggest that sediment transport is active in the study area, presumably in response to tidal currents and waves. Both historic (1912) and recent (1989-2004) distributions of Bull Kelp (Nereocystis sp.) beds were preferentially located along the boulder and bedrock substrates of Freshwater Bay. Although kelp has also been mapped in areas dominated by gravel and sand substrate, it typically has smaller canopy areas and lower temporal persistence in these regions.

Sand waves on an epicontinental shelf: Northern Bering Sea

USGS Publications Warehouse

Field, M.E.; Nelson, C.H.; Cacchione, D.A.; Drake, D.E.

1981-01-01

Sand waves and current ripples occupy the crests and flanks of a series of large linear sand ridges (20 km ?? 5 km ?? 10 m high) lying in an open-marine setting in the northern Bering Sea. The sand wave area, which lies west of Seward Peninsula and southeast of Bering Strait, is exposed to the strong continuous flow of coastal water northward toward Bering Strait. A hierarchy of three sizes of superimposed bedforms, all facing northward, was observed in successive cruises in 1976 and 1977. Large sand waves (height 2 m; spacing 200 m) have smaller sand waves (height 1 m; spacing 20 m) lying at a small oblique angle on their stoss slopes. The smaller sand waves in turn have linguoid ripples on their stoss slopes. Repeated studies of the sand wave fields were made both years with high-resolution seismic-reflection profiles, side-scan sonographs, underwater photographs, current-meter stations, vibracores, and suspended-sediment samplers. Comparison of seismic and side-scan data collected along profile lines run both years showed changes in sand wave shape that indicate significant bedload transport within the year. Gouge marks made in sediment by keels of floating ice also showed significantly different patterns each year, further documenting modification to the bottom by sediment transport. During calm sea conditions in 1977, underwater video and camera observations showed formation and active migration of linguoid and straight-crested current ripples. Current speeds 1 m above the bottom were between 20 and 30 cm/s. Maximum current velocities and sand wave migration apparently occur when strong southwesterly winds enhance the steady northerly flow of coastal water. Many cross-stratified sand bodies in the geologic record are interpreted as having formed in a tidal- or storm-dominated setting. This study provides an example of formation and migration of large bedforms by the interaction of storms with strong uniform coastal currents in an open-marine setting. ?? 1981.

Remote Sensing Characterization of Two-dimensional Wave Forcing in the Surf Zone

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Carini, R. J.; Chickadel, C. C.; Jessup, A. T.

2016-02-01

In the surf zone, breaking waves drive longshore currents, transport sediment, shape bathymetry, and enhance air-sea gas and particle exchange. Furthermore, wave group forcing influences the generation and duration of rip currents. Wave breaking exhibits large gradients in space and time, making it challenging to measure in situ. Remote sensing technologies, specifically thermal infrared (IR) imagery, can provide detailed spatial and temporal measurements of wave breaking at the water surface. We construct two-dimensional maps of active wave breaking from IR imagery collected during the Surf Zone Optics Experiment in September 2010 at the US Army Corps of Engineers' Field Research Facility in Duck, NC. For each breaker identified in the camera's field of view, the crest-perpendicular length of the aerated breaking region (roller length) and wave direction are estimated and used to compute the wave energy dissipation rate. The resultant dissipation rate maps are analyzed over different time scales: peak wave period, infragravity wave period, and tidal wave period. For each time scale, spatial maps of wave breaking are used to characterize wave forcing in the surf zone for a variety of wave conditions. The following phenomena are examined: (1) wave dissipation rates over the bar (location of most intense breaking) have increased variance in infragravity wave frequencies, which are different from the peak frequency of the incoming wave field and different from the wave forcing variability at the shoreline, and (2) wave forcing has a wider spatial distribution during low tide than during high tide due to depth-limited breaking over the barred bathymetry. Future work will investigate the response of the variability in wave setup, longshore currents and rip currents, to the variability in wave forcing in the surf zone.

Observations of coarse sediment movements on the mixed beach of the Elwha Delta, Washington

USGS Publications Warehouse

Miller, I.M.; Warrick, J.A.; Morgan, C.

2011-01-01

Mixed beaches, with poorly sorted grains of multiple sizes, are a common and globally distributed shoreline type. Despite this, rates and mechanisms of sediment transport on mixed beaches are poorly understood. A series of tracer deployments using native clasts implanted with Radio Frequency Identifier (RFID) tags was used to develop a better understanding of sediment transport directions and magnitudes on the mixed grain-size beach of the Elwha River delta. Using tracer samples selected to match the distribution of the coarse fraction on the beach we find that all grain sizes, up to large cobbles (128-256 mm), were mobile under most measured wave conditions and move in relationship to the direction of the alongshore component of wave energy as estimated by incident breaking wave angles. In locations where the breaking wave is normal to the shoreline we find that tracers move in both alongshore directions with approximately equal frequency. In locations where breaking waves are oblique to the shoreline we find that alongshore transport is more unidirectional and tracers can approach average velocities of 100. m/day under winter wave conditions. We use the tracer cloud to estimate the beach active width, the mobile layer depth and sediment velocity. Our results suggest that, while sediment velocity increases under increased incident wave angles, the active layer depth and width decrease, reducing sediment flux at the site with the more oblique breaking waves. This result is contrary to what is suggested by traditional wave energy transport models of alongshore sediment transport. ?? 2011 Elsevier B.V.

An Eulerian two-phase flow model for sediment transport under realistic surface waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hsu, T. J.; Kim, Y.; Cheng, Z.; Chauchat, J.

2017-12-01

Wave-driven sediment transport is of major importance in driving beach morphology. However, the complex mechanisms associated with unsteadiness, free-surface effects, and wave-breaking turbulence have not been fully understood. Particularly, most existing models for sediment transport adopt bottom boundary layer approximation that mimics the flow condition in oscillating water tunnel (U-tube). However, it is well-known that there are key differences in sediment transport when comparing to large wave flume datasets, although the number of wave flume experiments are relatively limited regardless of its importance. Thus, a numerical model which can resolve the entire water column from the bottom boundary layer to the free surface can be a powerful tool. This study reports an on-going effort to better understand and quantify sediment transport under shoaling and breaking surface waves through the creation of open-source numerical models in the OpenFOAM framework. An Eulerian two-phase flow model, SedFoam (Cheng et al., 2017, Coastal Eng.) is fully coupled with a volume-of-fluid solver, interFoam/waves2Foam (Jacobsen et al., 2011, Int. J. Num. Fluid). The fully coupled model, named SedWaveFoam, regards the air and water phases as two immiscible fluids with the interfaces evolution resolved, and the sediment particles as dispersed phase. We carried out model-data comparisons with the large wave flume sheet flow data for nonbreaking waves reported by Dohmen-Janssen and Hanes (2002, J. Geophysical Res.) and good agreements were obtained for sediment concentration and net transport rate. By further simulating a case without free-surface (mimic U-tube condition), the effects of free-surface, most notably the boundary layer streaming effect on total transport, can be quantified.

Wave-Sediment Interaction in Muddy Environments: A Field Experiment

DTIC Science & Technology

2008-01-01

project includes a field experiment on the Atchafalaya shelf, Louisiana, in Years 1 and 2 (2007-2008) and a data analysis and modeling effort in Year 3...2008), in collaboration with other researchers funded by ONR CG program. The pilot experiment has tested the instrumentation and data analysis ...1993; Foda et al., 1993). With the exception of liquefaction processes, these models assume a single, well­ defined mud phase. However

Modeling of sedimentation and resuspension processes induced by intensive internal gravity waves in the coastal water systems with the use of the advection-diffusion equation for sediment concentration

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Rouvinskaya, Ekaterina; Kurkin, Andrey; Kurkina, Oxana

2017-04-01

Intensive internal gravity waves influence bottom topography in the coastal zone. They induce substantial flows in the bottom layer that are essential for the formation of suspension and for the sediment transport. It is necessary to develop a mathematical model to predict the state of the seabed near the coastline to assess and ensure safety during the building and operation of the hydraulic engineering constructions. There are many models which are used to predict the impact of storm waves on the sediment transport processes. Such models for the impact of the tsunami waves are also actively developing. In recent years, the influence of intense internal waves on the sedimentation processes is also of a special interest. In this study we adapt one of such models, that is based on the advection-diffusion equation and allows to study processes of resuspension under the influence of internal gravity waves in the coastal zone, for solving the specific practical problems. During the numerical simulation precomputed velocity values are substituted in the advection - diffusion equation for sediment concentration at each time step and each node of the computational grid. Velocity values are obtained by the simulation of the internal waves' dynamics by using the IGW Research software package for numerical integration of fully nonlinear two-dimensional (vertical plane) system of equations of hydrodynamics of inviscid incompressible stratified fluid in the Boussinesq approximation bearing in mind the impact of barotropic tide. It is necessary to set the initial velocity and density distribution in the computational domain, bottom topography, as well as the value of the Coriolis parameter and, if necessary, the parameters of the tidal wave to carry out numerical calculations in the software package IGW Research. To initialize the background conditions of the numerical model we used data records obtained in the summer in the southern part of the shelf zone of Sakhalin Island from 1999 to 2003, provided by SakhNIRO, Russia. The process of assimilation of field data with numerical model is described in detail in our previous studies. It has been shown that process of suspension formation is quite intense for the investigated condition. Concentration of suspended particles significantly increases during the tide, especially on naturally uneven bottom relief as well as on the right boundary of the computational domain (near shoreline). Pronounced nepheloid layer is produced. Its thickness is about 5.6 m. At the phase of low tide, the process of suspension sediment production stops, and suspended particles are beginning to settle because of the small vertical velocities. Thickness of nepheloid layer is actively reduced. Obviously, this should lead to a change in the bottom relief. The presented results of research were obtained with the support of the Russian President's scholarship for young scientists and graduate students SP-2311.2016.5.

The dominance of dispersion in the evolution of bed material waves in gravel-bed rivers

Treesearch

Thomas E. Lisle; Yantao Cui; Gary Parker; James E. Pizzuto; Annjanette M. Dodd

2001-01-01

Abstract - Bed material waves are temporary zones of sediment accumulation created by large sediment inputs. Recent theoretical, experimental and field studies examine factors in fluencing dispersion and translation of bed material waves in quasi-uniform, gravel-bed channels. Exchanges of sediment between a channel and its floodplain are...

3D model of radionuclide dispersion in coastal areas with multifraction cohesive and non-cohesive sediments

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Brovchenko, Igor; Maderich, Vladimir; Jung, Kyung Tae

2015-04-01

We developed new radionuclide dispersion model that may be used in coastal areas, rivers and estuaries with non-uniform distribution of suspended and bed sediments both cohesive and non-cohesive types. Model describes radionuclides concentration in dissolved phase in water column, particulated phase on suspended sediments on each sediment class types, bed sediments and pore water. The transfer of activity between the water column and the pore water in the upper layer of the bottom sediment is governed by diffusion processes. The phase exchange between dissolved and particulate radionuclides is written in terms of desorption rate a12 (s-1) and distribution coefficient Kd,iw and Kd,ib (m3/kg) for water column and for bottom deposit, respectively. Following (Periáñez et al., 1996) the dependence of distribution coefficients is inversely proportional to the sediment particle size. For simulation of 3D circulation, turbulent diffusion and wave fields a hydrostatic model SELFE (Roland et. al. 2010) that solves Reynolds-stress averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations and Wave Action transport equation on the unstructured grids was used. Simulation of suspended sediment concentration and bed sediments composition is based on (L. Pinto et. al., 2012) approach that originally was developed for non-cohesive sediments. In present study we modified this approach to include possibility of simulating mixture of cohesive and non-cohesive sediments by implementing parameterizations for erosion and deposition fluxes for cohesive sediments and by implementing flocculation model for determining settling velocity of cohesive flocs. Model of sediment transport was calibrated on measurements in the Yellow Sea which is shallow tidal basin with strongly non-uniform distribution of suspended and bed sediments. Model of radionuclide dispersion was verified on measurements of 137Cs concentration in surface water and bed sediments after Fukushima Daiichi nuclear accident. References Periáñez, R. Abril, J.M., Garcia-Leon, M. (1996). Modelling the dispersion of non-conservative radionuclides in tidal waters'Part 1: conceptual and mathematical model. Journal of Environmental Radioactivity 31 (2), 127-141 Roland, A., Y. J. Zhang, H. V. Wang, Y. Meng, Y.-C. Teng, V. Maderich, I. Brovchenko, M. Dutour-Sikiric, and U. Zanke (2012), A fully coupled 3D wave-current interaction model on unstructured grids, J. Geophys. Res., 117, C00J33 Pinto L., Fortunato A.B., Zhang Y., Oliveira A., Sancho F.E.P. (2012) Development and validation of a three-dimensional morphodynamic modelling system for non-cohesive sediments, Ocean Modell., (57-58), 1-14

Field observations of slush ice generated during freeze-up in arctic coastal waters

USGS Publications Warehouse

Reimnitz, E.; Kempema, E.W.

1987-01-01

In some years, large volumes of slush ice charged with sediment are generated from frazil crystals in the shallow Beaufort Sea during strong storms at the time of freeze-up. Such events terminate the navigation season, and because of accompanying hostile conditions, little is known about the processes acting. The water-saturated slush ice, which may reach a thickness of 4 m, exists for only a few days before freezing from the surface downward arrests further wave motion or pancake ice forms. Movements of small vessels and divers in the slush ice occurs only in phase with passing waves, producing compression and rarefaction, and internal pressure pulses. Where in contact with the seafloor, the agitated slush ice moves cobble-size material, generates large sediment ripples, and may possibly produce a flat rampart observed on the arctic shoreface in some years. Processes charging the slush ice with as much as 1000 m3 km-2 of sediment remain uncertain, but our field observations rule out previously proposed filtration from turbid waters as a likely mechanism. Sedimentary particles apparently are only trapped in the interstices of the slush ice rather than being held by adhesion, since wave-related internal pressure oscillations result in downward particle movement and cleansing of the slush ice. This loss of sediment explains the typical downward increase in sediment concentration in that part of the fast-ice canopy composed largely of frazil ice. The congealing slush ice in coastal water does not become fast ice until grounded ridges are formed in the stamukhi zone, one to two months after freeze-up begins. During this period of new-ice mobility, long-range sediment transport occurs. The sediment load held by the fast-ice canopy in the area between the Colville and Sagavanirktok River deltas in the winter of 1978-1979 was 16 times larger than the yearly river input to the same area. This sediment most likely was rafted from Canada, more than 400 km to the east, during a brief time period in the previous fall. Ocean turbulence is greatly reduced while the congealing slush ice drifts about. Therefore, new ice then forming in intervening open-water areas is clean. These events explain the patchy appearance of the fast ice after the summer snowmelt. More work on the important phenomena reported here is needed to close a major gap in the knowledge of the arctic marine environment. ?? 1987.

Acoustic wave in a suspension of magnetic nanoparticle with sodium oleate coating

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Józefczak, A.; Hornowski, T.; Závišová, V.; Skumiel, A.; Kubovčíková, M.; Timko, M.

2014-03-01

The ultrasonic propagation in the water-based magnetic fluid with doubled layered surfactant shell was studied. The measurements were carried out both in the presence as well as in the absence of the external magnetic field. The thickness of the surfactant shell was evaluated by comparing the mean size of magnetic grain extracted from magnetization curve with the mean hydrodynamic diameter obtained from differential centrifugal sedimentation method. The thickness of surfactant shell was used to estimate volume fraction of the particle aggregates consisted of magnetite grain and surfactant layer. From the ultrasonic velocity measurements in the absence of the applied magnetic field, the adiabatic compressibility of the particle aggregates was determined. In the external magnetic field, the magnetic fluid studied in this article becomes acoustically anisotropic, i.e., velocity and attenuation of the ultrasonic wave depend on the angle between the wave vector and the direction of the magnetic field. The results of the ultrasonic measurements in the external magnetic field were compared with the hydrodynamic theory of Ovchinnikov and Sokolov (velocity) and with the internal chain dynamics model of Shliomis, Mond and Morozov (attenuation).

Acoustic wave in a suspension of magnetic nanoparticle with sodium oleate coating.

PubMed

Józefczak, A; Hornowski, T; Závišová, V; Skumiel, A; Kubovčíková, M; Timko, M

2014-01-01

The ultrasonic propagation in the water-based magnetic fluid with doubled layered surfactant shell was studied. The measurements were carried out both in the presence as well as in the absence of the external magnetic field. The thickness of the surfactant shell was evaluated by comparing the mean size of magnetic grain extracted from magnetization curve with the mean hydrodynamic diameter obtained from differential centrifugal sedimentation method. The thickness of surfactant shell was used to estimate volume fraction of the particle aggregates consisted of magnetite grain and surfactant layer. From the ultrasonic velocity measurements in the absence of the applied magnetic field, the adiabatic compressibility of the particle aggregates was determined. In the external magnetic field, the magnetic fluid studied in this article becomes acoustically anisotropic, i.e., velocity and attenuation of the ultrasonic wave depend on the angle between the wave vector and the direction of the magnetic field. The results of the ultrasonic measurements in the external magnetic field were compared with the hydrodynamic theory of Ovchinnikov and Sokolov (velocity) and with the internal chain dynamics model of Shliomis, Mond and Morozov (attenuation).

Distribution of basic sediments (bedload transport) on changes in coastal coastline Donggala, Central Sulawesi Province, Indonesia

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Amiruddin

2018-03-01

This study entitled "Distribution of Bedload Transport Against Coastline Changes in Donggala Coast", the formulation of the problem (1) how much of the estimated bedload transport in Donggala Bodies; (2) where were the location of erosion and sedimentation strong point based on the estimation of bed load transport; (3) the extent to which the prediction of shoreline change rate of transport of sediments in coastal areas Donggala. This study aims to: (1) the calculation of estimated bed load transport in Donggala waters; (2) determining the location of the point of erosion and sedimentation strong basis of estimated bedload transport; (3) the prediction of shoreline change rate of transport of sediments in coastal areas Donggala.The survey method used in this research to collect primary data include: (1) decision point waypoint coordinates of each location of measurement; (2) measurement of height, period and direction of the waves; (3) a large measurement of sediment transport; (4) The angle measurement coastline, angle of attack and wave direction, and secondary data include: (1) information from the public; (2) the physical condition data field. The results showed that: (1) general estimate sediment transport base in each location data collection is varied. This is due to the different points of the coastline as well as the angle of attack of the shoreline waters broke Donggala; (2) strong abrasion at the study site occurs at the point Ts4 (622.75 m3/yr) and TS11 (755.25 m3/yr) located in the Village Tosale and point Tw7 and Tw17 (649.25 m3/yr) in Village of Towale. As for the strong sedimentation occurs at the point Ts3 (450.50 m3/yr) located in the Village Tosale and Tg3 point (357.75 m3/yr) located in the Village Tolonggano; (3) of the predicted outcome coastline changes based on the input data estimate sediment transport, beaches and waves parameters is seen that the changes in the location prophyl coastline tends toward research into or undergo a process of abrasion.

Spatial correlation of shear-wave velocity within San Francisco Bay Sediments

USGS Publications Warehouse

Thompson, E.M.; Baise, L.G.; Kayen, R.E.

2006-01-01

Sediment properties are spatially variable at all scales, and this variability at smaller scales influences high frequency ground motions. We show that surface shear-wave velocity is highly correlated within San Francisco Bay Area sediments using shear-wave velocity measurements from 210 seismic cone penetration tests. We use this correlation to estimate the surface sediment velocity structure using geostatistics. We find that the variance of the estimated shear-wave velocity is reduced using ordinary kriging, and that including this velocity structure in 2D ground motion simulations of a moderate sized earthquake improves the accuracy of the synthetics. Copyright ASCE 2006.

Eruption-related lahars and sedimentation response downstream of Mount Hood: Field guide to volcaniclastic deposits along the Sandy River, Oregon

USGS Publications Warehouse

Pierson, Tom C.; Scott, William E.; Vallance, James W.; Pringle, Patrick T.; O'Connor, Jim; Dorsey, Rebecca; Madin, Ian

2009-01-01

Late Holocene dome-building eruptions at Mount Hood during the Timberline and Old Maid eruptive periods resulted in numerous dome-collapse pyroclastic flows and lahars that moved large volumes of volcaniclastic sediment into temporary storage in headwater canyons of the Sandy River. During each eruptive period, accelerated sediment loading to the river through erosion and remobilization of volcanic fragmental debris resulted in very high sediment-transport rates in the Sandy River during rain- and snowmelt-induced floods. Large sediment loads in excess of the river's transport capacity led to channel aggradation, channel widening, and change to a braided channel form in the lowermost reach of the river, between 61 and 87 km downstream from the volcano. The post-eruption sediment load moved as a broad bed-material wave, which in the case of the Old Maid eruption took ~2 decades to crest 83 km downstream. Maximum post-eruption aggradation levels of at least 28 and 23 m were achieved in response to Timberline and Old Maid eruptions. In each case, downstream aggradation cycles were initiated by lahars, but the bulk of the aggradation was achieved by fluvial sediment transport and deposition. When the high rates of sediment supply began to diminish, the river degraded, incising the channel fills and forming progressively lower sets of degradational terraces. A variety of debris-flow, hyperconcentrated-flow, and fluvial (upper and lower flow regime) deposits record the downstream passage of the sediment waves that were initiated by these eruptions. The deposits also presage a hazard that may be faced by communities along the Sandy River when volcanic activity at Mount Hood resumes.

The influence of neap-spring tidal variation and wave energy on sediment flux in salt marsh tidal creeks

USGS Publications Warehouse

Lacy, Jessica; Ferner, Matthew C.; Callaway, John C.

2018-01-01

Sediment flux in marsh tidal creeks is commonly used to gage sediment supply to marshes. We conducted a field investigation of temporal variability in sediment flux in tidal creeks in the accreting tidal marsh at China Camp State Park adjacent to northern San Francisco Bay. Suspended-sediment concentration (SSC), velocity, and depth were measured near the mouths of two tidal creeks during three six-to-ten-week deployments: two in winter and one in summer. Currents, wave properties and SSC were measured in the adjacent shallows. All deployments spanned the largest spring tides of the season. Results show that tidally-averaged suspended-sediment flux (SSF) in the tidal creeks decreased with increasing tidal energy, and SSF was negative (bayward) for tidal cycles with maximum water surface elevation above the marsh plain. Export during the largest spring tides dominated the cumulative SSF measured during the deployments. During ebb tides following the highest tides, velocities exceeded 1 m/s in the narrow tidal creeks, resulting in negative tidally-averaged water flux, and mobilizing sediment from the creek banks or bed. Storm surge also produced negative SSF. Tidally-averaged SSF was positive in wavey conditions with moderate tides. Spring-tide sediment export was about 50% less at a station 130 m further up the tidal creek than at the creek mouth. The negative tidally-averaged water flux near the creek mouth during spring tides indicates that in the lower marsh, some of the water flooding directly across the bay--marsh interface drains through the tidal creeks, and suggests that this interface may be a pathway for sediment supply to the lower marsh as well.

Mechanisms of sediment flux between shallows and marshes

USGS Publications Warehouse

Lacy, Jessica R.; Schile, L.M.; Callaway, J.C.; Ferner, M.C.

2015-01-01

We conducted a field study to investigate temporal variation and forcing mechanisms of sediment flux between a salt marsh and adjacent shallows in northern San Francisco Bay. Suspended-sediment concentration (SSC), tidal currents, and wave properties were measured over the marsh, in marsh creeks, and in bay shallows. Cumulative sediment flux in the marsh creeks was bayward during the study, and was dominated by large bayward flux during the largest tides of the year. This result was unexpected because extreme high tides with long inundation periods are commonly assumed to supply sediment to marshes, and long-term accretion estimates show that the marsh in the study site is depositional. A water mass-balance shows that some landward transport bypassed the creeks, most likely across the marsh-bay interface. An estimate of transport by this pathway based on observed SSC and inferred volume indicates that it was likely much less than the observed export.

The origin of SH-wave resonance frequencies in sedimentary layers

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

van der Baan, Mirko

2009-09-01

Resonance frequencies are often analysed in geo-engineering studies to evaluate seismic risk and microzonation in urban areas. The Nakamura technique constitutes a popular approach that computes the spectral ratio of horizontal-to-vertical ground motion in ambient noise recordings to reveal the existence of any site resonance frequencies. Its theoretical basis remains however unclear with some authors arguing that the method de-emphasizes any Rayleigh-wave contributions and that the resonance frequencies are solely caused by vertically incident SH waves. Other authors explain the same resonance frequencies by the ellipticity of the fundamental Rayleigh wave. Recent numerical simulations reveal that the magnitude of the peak frequency is proportional to the relative portion of Love waves present. This study demonstrates that Love waves alone can be responsible for any observed resonance frequencies in sedimentary layers. Yet sharp SH-wave resonance frequencies are only excited by a source in the bedrock. These resonance frequencies are caused by inhomogeneous waves excited by the bedrock source that tunnel through the high-velocity bedrock to emerge in the low-velocity sediments with a very reduced range of slownesses. The resulting SH waves are then free to interfere constructively thereby creating the observed resonance frequencies. This general trigger mechanism leads to resonances that are almost offset independent. The resulting resonance frequencies map onto points of maximum curvature in the Love-wave phase-velocity dispersion curves at or just beyond the critical horizontal slowness. They can be analysed with the quarter-wavelength law if a large velocity contrast exists between the unconsolidated sediments and the bedrock. A minor modification of the quarter-wavelength law provides more accurate predictions, also for smaller velocity contrasts. Multisource simulations show that site amplification factors as determined by horizontal-over-vertical (H/V) spectral ratios would not only depend on the relative portion of Love waves in the total wavefield but also on the depth distribution and the relative strength of the SH sources inside the bedrock compared with those in the sediments. An accurate interpretation of site amplification factors by means of H/V peak frequencies would thus require in-depth knowledge of the causes and origins of the local microseismic noise field.

Autogenic and Allogenic: Emergent Coastline Patterns Interact With Forcing Variations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Murray, A. B.; Alvarez Antolinez, J. A.; Mendez, F. J.; Moore, L. J.; Wood, J.; Farley, G.

2017-12-01

A range of coastline shapes can emerge from large-scale morphodynamic interactions. Coastline shape determines local wave influences. Local wave influences (fluxes of alongshore momentum), determine sediment fluxes, and gradients in these sediment fluxes, in turn, alter coastline shape. Modeling studies show that such feedbacks lead to an instability, and to subsequent finite-amplitude interactions, producing self-organized patterns and emergent structures including sandwaves, capes, and spits (e.g. Ashton and Murray, 2006; Ashton et al., 2015); spiral bays on rocky coastlines (e.g. Barkwith et al., 2014); and convex, spit-bounded coastlines (Ells et al., in prep.). Coastline shapes depend sensitively on wave climate, defined as the angular distribution of wave influences on alongshore sediment transport. Therefore, shifts in wave climate arising from shifts in storms (decadal scale fluctuations or longer-term trends) will tend to change coastline shape. Previous efforts have detected changing coastline shape, likely related to changing influence from hurricane-generated waves, as expressed in changes in the location and intensity of coastal erosion zones along the cuspate capes in North Carolina, USA (Moore et al., 2013). These efforts involved the assumption that coastline response to changing forcing occurs in a quasi-equilibrium manner. However, in some cases coastline responses can exhibit long-term memory and path dependence (Thomas et al., 2016). Recently, we have hindcast the wave climate affecting the North Carolina coast since 1870, using a series of statistical analyses to downscale from basin-scale surface pressure fields to regional deep-water wave climate, and then a numerical transformation to local offshore wave climate. We used this wave climate as input for the Coastline Evolution Model (CEM). The results show that the emergent coastline features respond to decadal-scale shifts in wave climate, but with time lags that complicate the relationship between forcing and coastline shape. Comparisons between model predictions and observed shoreline-change patterns support the suggestion that the relationship between emergent coastline behaviours (autogenic processes) and external influences (autogenic forcing) involves such memory effects (Antolinez et al., in revision).

The influence of wave-, wind- and tide-forced currents on headland sand bypassing - Study case: Santa Catarina Island north shore, Brazil

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Vieira da Silva, Guilherme; Toldo, Elírio E., Jr.; Klein, Antonio H. da F.; Short, Andrew D.

2018-07-01

Investigations of headland sand bypassing are still an under-reported subject in the literature. This paper aims to understand the contribution of currents forced by different mechanisms such as tides, winds (i.e. local wind acting over the ocean surface generating currents, without considering wave generation) and waves (as they approach/break on the coast) to headland sand bypassing. The study was carried out in an area comprising a series of seven headlands with varying wave exposure due to changes in shoreline orientation and increasing tidal influence close to a relatively large bay. This paper uses a calibrated and validated process-based model (Delft3D) to simulate a series of scenarios including spring and neap tides during flood and ebb conditions and a range of wind and wave scenarios that encompass both average and extreme conditions. The results indicate that waves are the main driving force for the headland bypassing as they transport sand at rates two orders of magnitude higher than tide- or wind-driven sediment transport. The tide-driven currents can only transport sediment during spring tides in locations where the currents are intensified. It is also demonstrated that the wave direction plays an important role in sediment transport. In exposed areas with larger headlands a combination of wave directions is required to first transport sediment offshore (out of the beach) and secondly to transport sediment alongshore and back to the next beach. Whereas in areas with little variation in wave direction exposure, the same oblique wave direction is responsible for the entire headland bypassing process. This is the first time the contribution of tide-, winds- and wave-generated sediment transport to headland bypassing have been studied.

An Investigation of the Influence of Waves on Sediment Processes in Skagit Bay

DTIC Science & Technology

2011-09-30

source term parameterizations common to most surface wave models, including wave generation by wind , energy dissipation from whitecapping, and...I. Total energy and peak frequency. Coastal Engineering (29), 47-78. Zijlema, M. Computation of wind -wave spectra in coastal waters with SWAN on unstructured grids Coastal Engineering, 2010, 57, 267-277 ...supply and wind on tidal flat sediment transport. It will be used to evaluate the capabilities of state-of-the-art open source sediment models and to

Waves, Currents, and Sediment Transport in the Surf Zone Along Long, Straight Beaches

DTIC Science & Technology

2005-08-01

e.g., Inman, 1957; Keneddy and Falcon, 1965; Carstens et al., 1969; Mogridge and Kamphuis, 1972; Dingler, 1974; Miller and Komar, 1980; Nielsen, 1981...laboratory experiments and through field observations (e.g., Inman, 1957; Keneddy and Falcon, 1965; Carstens et al., 1969; Mogridge and Kamphuis, 1972; Dingler

The effect of vegetation height and biomass on the sediment budget of a European saltmarsh

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Reef, Ruth; Schuerch, Mark; Christie, Elizabeth K.; Möller, Iris; Spencer, Tom

2018-03-01

Sediment retention in saltmarshes is often attributed to the presence of vegetation, which enhances accretion by slowing water flow, reduces erosion by attenuating wave energy and increases surface stability through the presence of organic matter. Saltmarsh vegetation morphology varies considerably on a range of spatial and temporal scales, but the effect of different above ground morphologies on sediment retention is not well characterised. Understanding the biophysical interaction between the canopy and sediment trapping in situ is important for improving numerical shoreline models. In a novel field flume study, we measured the effect of vegetation height and biomass on sediment trapping using a mass balance approach. Suspended sediment profilers were placed at both openings of a field flume built across-shore on the seaward boundary of an intertidal saltmarsh in the Dengie Peninsula, UK. Sequential removal of plant material from within the flume resulted in incremental loss of vegetation height and biomass. The difference between the concentration of suspended sediment measured at each profiler was used to determine the sediment budget within the flume. Deposition of material on the plant/soil surfaces within the flume occurred during flood tides, while ebb flow resulted in erosion (to a lesser degree) from the flume area, with a positive sediment budget of on average 6.5 g m-2 tide-1 with no significant relationship between sediment trapping efficiency and canopy morphology. Deposition (and erosion) rates were positively correlated to maximum inundation depth. Our results suggest that during periods of calm conditions, changes to canopy morphology do not result in significant changes in sediment budgets in marshes.

Field-trip guide to subaqueous volcaniclastic facies in the Ancestral Cascades arc in southern Washington State—The Ohanapecosh Formation and Wildcat Creek beds

USGS Publications Warehouse

Jutzeler, Martin; McPhie, Jocelyn

2017-06-27

Partly situated in the idyllic Mount Rainier National Park, this field trip visits exceptional examples of Oligocene subaqueous volcaniclastic successions in continental basins adjacent to the Ancestral Cascades arc. The >800-m-thick Ohanapecosh Formation (32–26 Ma) and the >300-m-thick Wildcat Creek (27 Ma) beds record similar sedimentation processes from various volcanic sources. Both show evidence of below-wave-base deposition, and voluminous accumulation of volcaniclastic facies from subaqueous density currents and suspension settling. Eruption-fed facies include deposits from pyroclastic flows that crossed the shoreline, from tephra fallout over water, and from probable Surtseyan eruptions, whereas re-sedimented facies comprise subaqueous density currents and debris flow deposits.

Effect of wave-current interactions on sediment resuspension in large shallow Lake Taihu, China.

PubMed

Li, Yiping; Tang, Chunyan; Wang, Jianwei; Acharya, Kumud; Du, Wei; Gao, Xiaomeng; Luo, Liancong; Li, Huiyun; Dai, Shujun; Mercy, Jepkirui; Yu, Zhongbo; Pan, Baozhu

2017-02-01

The disturbance of the water-sediment interface by wind-driven currents and waves plays a critical role in sediment resuspension and internal nutrient release in large, shallow lakes. This study analyzed the effects of the interactions between wind-induced currents an1d waves on the driving mechanism of sediment resuspension in Lake Taihu, the third largest freshwater lake in China, using acoustic and optic techniques to collect long-term, high-frequency, synchronous in situ measurements of wind, currents, waves, and suspended solid concentrations (SSCs). The results suggested that water turbidity started to increase at wind speeds of approximately 4 m/s and significantly increased when wind speeds exceeded 6 m/s. In most cases, wind-induced waves were the main energy source for changes in turbidity. Wave-generated shear stress contributed more than 95% to sediment resuspension and that only in weak wind conditions (<4 m/s) did the lake bottom shear stresses generated by currents and waves contributed equally. The relationship between SSC and bottom shear stress generated by wave was established by fitting the observed results. The processes of sediment dynamics were divided into four stages (A through D) according to three shear-stress thresholds. In stage A, SSC remained stable (about 45 mg/L) and τ w was less than 0.02 N/m 2 . In stage B, the sediment bed was starting to be activated (SSC 45∼60 mg/L) and τ w was in the range of 0.02∼0.07 N/m 2 . In stage C, a medium amount of sediment was suspended (SSC 60∼150 mg/L) and τ w ranged from 0.07 to 0.3 N/m 2 . In stage D, large amount of sediment was suspended (SSC 150∼300 mg/L) and τ w was larger than 0.3 N/m 2 . The findings of this paper reveal the driving mechanism of sediment resuspension, which may further help to evaluate internal nutrient release in large shallow Lake Taihu.

Numerical modeling of salt marsh morphological change induced by Hurricane Sandy

USGS Publications Warehouse

Hu, Kelin; Chen, Qin; Wang, Hongqing; Hartig, Ellen K.; Orton, Philip M.

2018-01-01

The salt marshes of Jamaica Bay serve as a recreational outlet for New York City residents, mitigate wave impacts during coastal storms, and provide habitat for critical wildlife species. Hurricanes have been recognized as one of the critical drivers of coastal wetland morphology due to their effects on hydrodynamics and sediment transport, deposition, and erosion processes. In this study, the Delft3D modeling suite was utilized to examine the effects of Hurricane Sandy (2012) on salt marsh morphology in Jamaica Bay. Observed marsh elevation change and accretion from rod Surface Elevation Tables and feldspar Marker Horizons (SET-MH) and hydrodynamic measurements during Hurricane Sandy were used to calibrate and validate the wind-waves-surge-sediment transport-morphology coupled model. The model results agreed well with in situ field measurements. The validated model was then used to detect salt marsh morphological change due to Sandy across Jamaica Bay. Model results indicate that the island-wide morphological changes in the bay's salt marshes due to Sandy were in the range of −30 mm (erosion) to +15 mm (deposition), and spatially complex and heterogeneous. The storm generated paired deposition and erosion patches at local scales. Salt marshes inside the west section of the bay showed erosion overall while marshes inside the east section showed deposition from Sandy. The net sediment amount that Sandy brought into the bay is only about 1% of the total amount of reworked sediment within the bay during the storm. Numerical experiments show that waves and vegetation played a critical role in sediment transport and associated wetland morphological change in Jamaica Bay. Furthermore, without the protection of vegetation, the marsh islands of Jamaica Bay would experience both more erosion and less accretion in coastal storms.

Investigations of the Origin of the Magnetic Remanence in Late Pleistocene Lacustrine Sediments in the Mono Basin, CA

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Vasquez, N.; Corley, A. D.

2015-12-01

In the Mono Basin, CA, fine sand, silt, and volcanic ash deposited in Pleistocene Lake Russell is exposed on the margin of Mono Lake, and on Paoha Island in the lake. The silt records the Mono Lake Excursion (MLE: Denham and Cox, 1971) and several tens of thousands of years of paleomagnetic secular variation (PSV: Denham and Cox, 1971; Liddicoat, 1976; Lund et al., 1988). The sediment is believed to be an accurate recorder of PSV because the MLE has the same signal at widely separated localities in the basin (Denham, 1974; Liddicoat and Coe, 1979; Liddicoat, 1992) with the exception at wave-cut cliffs on the southeast side of the lake (Coe and Liddicoat, 1994). Magnetite, titanomagnetite, and titanomaghemite are present in the sediment (Denham and Cox, 1971; Liddicoat, 1976; Liddicoat and Coe, 1979), which is glacial flour from the adjacent Sierra Nevada (Lajoie, 1968). X-rays of the sediment and lineation measurements show patterns of normal bedding with layers aligned such that the minimum axes are within 5-10 degrees of normal bedding, with 10 percent foliation and 1 percent lineation (Coe and Liddicoat, 1994). We explore reasons for the difference in part of the PSV record at the wave-cut cliffs beyond the interpretation of Coe and Liddicoat (1994) that paleomagnetic field strength is a controlling factor. Possibilities include the sedimentation rate - at localities on the margin of Mono Lake the rate is about 60 percent less than at the wave-cut cliffs - and lithology of the sediment. At Mill Creek on the northwest side of Mono Lake, the non-magnetic sediment fraction is coarser-grained than at the wave-cut cliffs by a factor of about two, and there is a similar difference in the total inorganic carbon (TIC) percentage by weight for the two localities. (Spokowski et al., 2011) Studies of the sediment at two localities in the basin where the Hilina Pali Excursion (Teanby et al., 2002) might be recorded (Wilson Creek and South Shore Cliffs; Liddicoat and Coe, 2013) and at an extension of the PSV record of Lund et al. (1988) show a similar pattern to the grain size distribution and TIC percentage described above. Additional measurements of the TIC in the sediments from both sides of Mono Lake for the intervals recording the possible HPE and PSV extension of Lund et al. (1988) are in progress and will be presented.

The Massachusetts Bay internal wave experiment, August 1998: data report

USGS Publications Warehouse

Butman, Bradford; Alexander, P. Soupy; Anderson, Steven P.; Lightsom, Frances L.; Scotti, Alberto; Beardsley, Robert C.

2006-01-01

This data report presents oceanographic observations made in Massachusetts Bay (fig. 1) in August 1998 as part of the Massachusetts Bay Internal Wave Experiment (MBIWE98). MBIWE98 was carried out to characterize large-amplitude internal waves in Massachusetts Bay and to investigate the possible resuspension and transport of bottom sediments caused by these waves. This data report presents a description of the field program and instrumentation, an overview of the data through summary plots and statistics, and the time-series data in NetCDF format. The objective of this report is to make the data available in digital form and to provide summary plots and statistics to facilitate browsing of the data set. The existence of large-amplitude internal waves in Massachusetts Bay was first described by Halpern (1971). In summer when the water is stratified, packets of waves propagate westward into the bay on the flood (westward flowing) tide at about 0.5 m/s. The internal waves are observed in packets of 5-10 waves, have periods of 5-10 minutes and wavelengths of 200-400 m, and cause downward excursions of the thermocline of as much as 30 m. The waves are generated by interaction of the barotropic tide with Stellwagen Bank (Haury and others (1979). Several papers present analyses and interpretations of the data collected during the MBIWE98. Grosenbaugh and others (2002) report on the results of the horizontal array, Scotti and others (2005) describe a strategy for processing observations made by Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers (ADCPs) in the presence of short-wavelength internal waves, Butman and others (in press) describe the effect of these waves on sediment transport, and Scotti and others (in press) describe the energetics of the internal waves.

Lidar Observations of Wave Shape

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Brodie, K. L.; Raubenheimer, B.; Spore, N.; Gorrell, L.; Slocum, R. K.; Elgar, S.

2016-02-01

As waves propagate across the inner-surf zone, through a shorebreak, to the swash, their shapes can evolve rapidly, particularly if there are large changes in water depth over a wavelength. As wave shapes evolve, the time history of near-bed wave-orbital velocities also changes. Asymmetrical near-bed velocities result in preferential directions for sediment transport, and spatial variations in asymmetries can lead to morphological evolution. Thus, understanding and predicting wave shapes in the inner-surf and swash zones is important to improving sediment transport predictions. Here, rapid changes in wave shape, quantified by 3rd moments (skewness and asymmetry) of the sea-surface elevation time series, were observed on a sandy Atlantic Ocean beach near Duck, NC using terrestrial lidar scanners that measure the elevation of the water surface along a narrow cross-shore transect with high spatial [O(1 cm)] and temporal [O(0.5 s)] resolution. The terrestrial lidar scanners were mounted on a tower on the beach dune (about 8 m above the water surface) and on an 8-m tall amphibious tripod [the Coastal Research Amphibious Buggy (CRAB)]. Observations with the dune lidar are used to investigate how bulk wave shape parameters such as wave skewness and asymmetry, and the ratio of wave height to water depth (gamma) vary with beach slope, tide level, and offshore wave conditions. Observations with the lidar mounted on the CRAB are used to investigate the evolution of individual waves propagating across the surf zone and shorebreak to the swash. For example, preliminary observations from the CRAB include a wave that appeared to shoal and then "pitch" backwards immediately prior to breaking and running up the beach. Funded by the USACE Coastal Field Data Collection Program, ASD(R&E), and ONR.

Wind-enhanced resuspension in the shallow waters of South San Francisco Bay: Mechanisms and potential implications for cohesive sediment transport

USGS Publications Warehouse

Brand, Andreas; Lacy, Jessica R.; Hsu, Kevin; Hoover, Daniel; Gladding, Steve; Stacey, Mark T.

2010-01-01

We investigated the driving forces of sediment dynamics at the shoals in South San Francisco Bay. Two stations were deployed along a line perpendicular to a 14 m deep channel, 1000 and 2000 m from the middle of the channel. Station depths were 2.59 and 2.19 m below mean lower low water, respectively. We used acoustic Doppler velocimeters for the simultaneous determination of current velocities, turbulence, sediment concentration and fluxes. Maximum current shear velocities were 0.015 m s−1 at the station further from the channel (closer to the shore) and 0.02 m s−1 at the station closer to the channel. Peak wave-induced shear velocities exceeded 0.015 m s−1 at both stations. Maximum sediment concentrations were around 30 g m−3 during calm periods (root mean square wave height −3 and sediment fluxes were 5 times higher than in calm conditions (0.02 g m−2 s−1 versus >0.10 g m−2 s−1) at the station further from the channel 0.36 m above the bed. Closer to the channel, sediment concentrations and vertical fluxes due to wind wave resuspension were persistently lower (maximum concentrations around 50 g m−3 and maximum fluxes around 0.04 g m−2 s−1). Most resuspension events occurred during flood tides that followed wave events during low water. Although wave motions are able to resuspend sediment into the wave boundary layer at low tide, the observed large increases in sediment fluxes are due to the nonlinear interaction of wind waves and the tidal currents.

Late Quaternary transgressive large dunes on the sediment-starved Adriatic shelf

USGS Publications Warehouse

Correggiari, A.; Field, M.E.; Trincardi, F.

1996-01-01

The Adriatic epicontinental basin is a low-gradient shelf where the late-Quaternary transgressive systems tract (TST) is composed of thin parasequences of backbarrier, shoreface and offshore deposits. The facies and internal architecture of the late-Quaternary TST in the Adriatic epicontinental basin changed consistently from early transgression to late transgression reflecting: (1) fluctuations in the balance between sediment supply and accommodation increase, and (2) a progressive intensification of the oceanographic regime, driven by the transgressive widening of the basin to as much as seven times its lowstand extent. One of the consequences of this trend is that high-energy marine bedforms such as sand ridges and sand waves characterize only areas that were flooded close to the end of the late-Quaternary sea-level rise, when the wind fetch was maximum and bigger waves and stronger storm currents could form. We studied the morphology, sediment composition and sequence-stratigraphical setting of a field of asymmetric bedforms (typically 3 m high and 600 m in wavelength) in 20-24 m water depth offshore the Venice Lagoon in the sediment-starved North Adriatic shelf. The sand that forms these large dunes derived from a drowned transgressive coastal deposit reworked by marine processes. Early cementation took place over most of the dune crests limiting their activity and preventing their destruction. Both the formation and deactivation of this field of sand dunes occurred over a short time interval close to the turn-around point that separates the late-Quaternary sea-level rise and the following highstand and reflect rapid changes in the oceanographic regime of the basin.

Oscillatory erosion and transport flume with superimposed unidirectional flow

DOEpatents

Jepsen, Richard A.; Roberts, Jesse D.

2004-01-20

A method and apparatus for measuring erosion rates of sediments and at high shear stresses due to complex wave action with, or without, a superimposed unidirectional current. Water is forced in a channel past an exposed sediment core sample, which erodes sediments when a critical shear stress has been exceeded. The height of the core sample is adjusted during testing so that the sediment surface remains level with the bottom of the channel as the sediments erode. Complex wave action is simulated by driving tandom piston/cylinder mechanisms with computer-controlled stepper motors. Unidirectional flow, forced by a head difference between two open tanks attached to each end of the channel, may be superimposed on to the complex wave action. Sediment traps may be used to collect bedload sediments. The total erosion rate equals the change in height of the sediment core sample divided by a fixed period of time.

Development of a coupled wave-flow-vegetation interaction model

USGS Publications Warehouse

Beudin, Alexis; Kalra, Tarandeep S.; Ganju, Neil K.; Warner, John C.

2017-01-01

Emergent and submerged vegetation can significantly affect coastal hydrodynamics. However, most deterministic numerical models do not take into account their influence on currents, waves, and turbulence. In this paper, we describe the implementation of a wave-flow-vegetation module into a Coupled-Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system that includes a flow model (ROMS) and a wave model (SWAN), and illustrate various interacting processes using an idealized shallow basin application. The flow model has been modified to include plant posture-dependent three-dimensional drag, in-canopy wave-induced streaming, and production of turbulent kinetic energy and enstrophy to parameterize vertical mixing. The coupling framework has been updated to exchange vegetation-related variables between the flow model and the wave model to account for wave energy dissipation due to vegetation. This study i) demonstrates the validity of the plant posture-dependent drag parameterization against field measurements, ii) shows that the model is capable of reproducing the mean and turbulent flow field in the presence of vegetation as compared to various laboratory experiments, iii) provides insight into the flow-vegetation interaction through an analysis of the terms in the momentum balance, iv) describes the influence of a submerged vegetation patch on tidal currents and waves separately and combined, and v) proposes future directions for research and development.

Sediment transport on the Palos Verdes shelf over seasonal to decadal time scales

USGS Publications Warehouse

Wiberg, P.L.; Drake, D.E.; Harris, C.K.; Noble, M.

2002-01-01

We combine direct observations, longer-term wave data, and model calculations to characterize resuspension and transport of fine-grained, effluent-affected sediment on the Palos Verdes shelf. Near-bed waves, currents, and suspended sediment concentrations were monitored during the winter of 1992-93 with a bottom tripod and current-meter mooring at a 63-m-deep site. Wave conditions that winter were moderate (??? 2 year recurrence interval), and mean current was alongshelf to the northwest; currents were not significantly correlated with wave conditions. Seven wave events during the winter (December-March) produced near-bed wave orbital velocities at the study site in excess of 14 cm s-1, the observed threshold for significant resuspension. Three of these events occurred during the bottom tripod deployment and are characterized by the highest persistent suspended sediment concentrations in the tripod record. Suspended sediment flux was alongshelf to the northwest for 5 of the 6 wave events for which current data were available; one event occurred during low southeast currents. Measured suspended sediment concentration and grain size generally agree with values that were calculated using a shelf sediment transport model with no adjustment of parameters from values determined for two muddy sites on the northern California shelf. We extend our seasonal observations to a period of almost 2 decades by applying the observed thresholds for wave-driven resuspension to near-bed wave conditions calculated from NDBC Buoy 46025 surface wave data. An average of 10 resuspension events per year, with an average duration of 1.6 days, were identified at a water depth of 60 m; the number of events dropped to 3 per year at 90 m, beyond the shelf break. For the majority of these events, calculated net suspended sediment flux is toward the northwest (alongshelf) at an average rate of 140 kg m-1 h-1; about a third of the events have net southeastward flux at an average rate of 30 kg m-1 h-1. The calculated thickness of the resuspended surface layer of the bed was less than 1 cm for all events at 60 m. ?? 2002 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.

Effects of nourishment on the form and function of an estuarine beach

USGS Publications Warehouse

Jackson, N.L.; Nordstrom, K.F.; Saini, S.; Smith, D.R.

2010-01-01

Beach nourishment programs in estuaries can enhance shore protection, but they decrease habitat suitability by creating higher berms and wider backshores than would occur under natural conditions. Use of sediment sources from outside the area can result in sedimentary characteristics that differ from native sediments on the surface and at depth, altering conditions for both aeolian transport to dunes and interstitial fauna. Field data were gathered on an estuarine beach to determine differences in beach profile change, depth of sediment reworking, and potential for aeolian transport due to nourishment. Data were gathered over a 20-month period 6 months prior to nourishment, 3 days after nourishment, 6 months after nourishment, and 14 months after nourishment when the beach was mechanically graded to eliminate a vertical scarp in the foreshore. The nourishment consisted of 87,900m3 of sediment emplaced to create a 1.34-km-long, 30-m-wide berm 2.3m above mean tide level. Seven percent of the fill was removed from the profile within 6 months after nourishment, accompanied by 7m in horizontal retreat of the artificial berm. The fill on the backshore remained above the zone of wave influence over a winter storm season and was separated from the active foreshore by the scarp. Nourished sediments on the intertidal foreshore were significantly different from native sediments to a depth of 0.20m below the surface. A lag surface of coarse sediment formed by deflation on the backshore, resulting in a rate of aeolian transport <2% of the rate on the wave-reworked foreshore.Nourishing a beach to a level higher than would be created by natural processes can create a profile that compartmentalizes and restricts transport of sediment and movement of fauna between the foreshore and backshore. Mechanical grading can eliminate the scarp, allow for faunal interaction, and reestablish wave reworking of the backshore that will facilitate aeolian transport. Using an initial design to nourish the backshore at a lower elevation and allowing a dune to provide protection against flooding during major storms could prevent a scarp from forming and eliminate the need for follow-up grading. ?? 2010 Elsevier B.V.

Wavelike movement of bedload sediment, East Fork River, Wyoming

USGS Publications Warehouse

Meade, R.H.

1985-01-01

Bedload is moved down the East Fork River in distinct wavelike pulses that have the form of composite dune fields The moving material consists mostly of coarse sand and fine gravel The wavelengths of the pulses are about 500-600 m, a distance that is predetermined by the pattern of stoage of bed sediment in the river during low water As the river discharge increases, the bed sediment is scoured from the storage areas, and it is moved onto and across the interventing riffles As the river discharge decreases, the bed sediment is scoured off the riffles and moved into the next storage area downstream Each successive pulse of water discharge sets into motion a wave of bedload that continues to move unitil it reaches the next storage area ?? 1985 Springer-Verlag New York Inc.

Modeling sand wave characteristics on the Belgian Continental Shelf and in the Calais-Dover Strait

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Cherlet, J.; Besio, G.; Blondeaux, P.; van Lancker, V.; Verfaillie, E.; Vittori, G.

2007-06-01

The capability of the model of Besio et al. (2006) to predict the main geometrical characteristics (crest orientation, wavelength,…) of tidal sand waves is tested by comparing the theoretical predictions with field data. In particular the field observations carried out by Mouchet (1990) and Van Lancker et al. (2005) along the continental shelf of Belgium are used. Additional comparisons are carried out against the field measurements described by Le Bot (2001) and Le Bot and Trenteseaux (2004) which were carried out in an adjacent region. Attention is focused on the prediction of the wavelength of the bottom forms. Indeed, the capability of a linear stability analysis to predict the occurrence of sand waves has been already tested by Hulscher and van den Brink (2001) and more recently by van der Veen et al. (2006). The obtained results show that the theoretical predictions fairly agree with field observations even though some of the comparisons suggest that the accuracy of the predictions depends on the accurate evaluation of the local current and sediment characteristics.

Coastal Erosion in a Coral Reef Island, Taiping Island, South China Sea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Su, S.; Ma, G.; Liang, M.; Chu, J.

2011-12-01

Reef flats surrounding islands are known to dissipate much offshore wave energy, and thereby protect beaches from erosion. Taiping Island, the largest coral reef islands of the Spratly Islands in the South China Sea, has been observed the shorelines erosion on the southwest coast over past decades. It is recognized that wave and current processes across coral reefs affect reef-island development and morphology. A number of studies suggest effects of climate changes, sea-level rise and storm-intensity increase, determine the magnitude of wave energy on the reef platform and will likely intensify the erosion. The topographical change in the local region, the southwest reef flat was dredged a channel for navigation, may be a significant factor in influencing current characteristics. Numerical modeling is used to describe both hydrodynamics and sediment dynamics because there are no field measurements available around the reef flat. Field observations off the island conducted in August 2004 and November 2005 provides offshore wave characteristics of the predominant wind seasons. Numerical simulations perform the spatial and temporal variation of waves and current patterns and coastal erosion potential on the reef platform.

Quantification of Beach Profile Change

DTIC Science & Technology

1988-01-01

complex fluid motion over an irregular bottom, and absence of rigorous descriptions of broken waves and sediment-sediment interaction, also make the...monochromatic and irregular waves for a dune-like foreshore with and without a significant surf zone. For one case starting from a beach without...34foreshore", mono- chromatic waves produced a bar, whereas irregular waves of significant height and peak spectral period of the monochromatic waves did

Approaches to quantifying long-term continental shelf sediment transport with an example from the Northern California STRESS mid-shelf site

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Harris, Courtney K.; Wiberg, Patricia L.

1997-09-01

Modeling shelf sediment transport rates and bed reworking depths is problematic when the wave and current forcing conditions are not precisely known, as is usually the case when long-term sedimentation patterns are of interest. Two approaches to modeling sediment transport under such circumstances are considered. The first relies on measured or simulated time series of flow conditions to drive model calculations. The second approach uses as model input probability distribution functions of bottom boundary layer flow conditions developed from wave and current measurements. Sediment transport rates, frequency of bed resuspension by waves and currents, and bed reworking calculated using the two methods are compared at the mid-shelf STRESS (Sediment TRansport on Shelves and Slopes) site on the northern California continental shelf. Current, wave and resuspension measurements at the site are used to generate model inputs and test model results. An 11-year record of bottom wave orbital velocity, calculated from surface wave spectra measured by the National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) Buoy 46013 and verified against bottom tripod measurements, is used to characterize the frequency and duration of wave-driven transport events and to estimate the joint probability distribution of wave orbital velocity and period. A 109-day record of hourly current measurements 10 m above bottom is used to estimate the probability distribution of bottom boundary layer current velocity at this site and to develop an auto-regressive model to simulate current velocities for times when direct measurements of currents are not available. Frequency of transport, the maximum volume of suspended sediment, and average flux calculated using measured wave and simulated current time series agree well with values calculated using measured time series. A probabilistic approach is more amenable to calculations over time scales longer than existing wave records, but it tends to underestimate net transport because it does not capture the episodic nature of transport events. Both methods enable estimates to be made of the uncertainty in transport quantities that arise from an incomplete knowledge of the specific timing of wave and current conditions. 1997 Elsevier Science Ltd

Summertime conditions of a muddy estuarine environment: the EsCoSed project contribution.

PubMed

Brocchini, Maurizio; Calantoni, Joseph; Reed, Allen H; Postacchini, Matteo; Lorenzoni, Carlo; Russo, Aniello; Mancinelli, Alessandro; Corvaro, Sara; Moriconi, Giacomo; Soldini, Luciano

2015-01-01

As part of the Estuarine Cohesive Sediments (EsCoSed) project, a field experiment was performed in a highly engineered environment, acting as a natural laboratory, to study the physico-chemical properties of estuarine sediments and the associated hydro-morphodynamics during different seasons. The present contribution focuses on the results obtained from the summertime monitoring of the most downstream part of the Misa River (Senigallia, Italy). The measured hydrodynamics suggested a strong interaction between river current, wave forcing and tidal motion; flow velocities, affected by wind waves traveling upstream, changed significantly along the water column in both direction and magnitude. Surficial salinities in the estuary were low in the upper reaches of the estuary and exceeded 10 psu before the river mouth. Montmorillonite dominated the clay mineral assemblage, suggesting that large, low density flocs with high settling velocities (>1 mm s(-1)) may dominate the suspended aggregate materials.

Nonlocal Sediment Transport on Steep Lateral Moraines, Eastern Sierra Nevada, California, USA

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Doane, Tyler H.; Furbish, David Jon; Roering, Joshua J.; Schumer, Rina; Morgan, Daniel J.

2018-01-01

Recent work has highlighted the significance of long-distance particle motions in hillslope sediment transport. Such motions imply that the flux at a given hillslope position is appropriately described as a weighted function of surrounding conditions that influence motions reaching the given position. Although the idea of nonlocal sediment transport is well grounded in theory, limited field evidence has been provided. We test local and nonlocal formulations of the flux and compare their ability to reproduce land surface profiles of steep moraines in California. We show that nonlocal and nonlinear models better reproduce evolved land surface profiles, notably the amount of lowering and concavity near the moraine crest and the lengthening and straightening of the depositional apron. The analysis provides the first estimates of key parameters that set sediment entrainment rates and travel distances in nonlocal formulations and highlights the importance of correctly specifying the entrainment rate when modeling land surface evolution. Moraine evolution associated with nonlocal and nonlinear transport formulations, when described in terms of the evolution of the Fourier transform of the moraine surface, displays a distinct behavior involving growth of certain wave numbers, in contrast to the decay of all wave numbers associated with linear transport. Nonlinear and nonlocal formulations share key mathematical elements yielding a nonlinear relation between the flux and the land surface slope.

Measurements of near-bed intra-wave sediment entrainment above vortex ripples

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Thorne, Peter D.; Davies, Alan G.; Williams, Jon J.

2003-10-01

In general, descriptions of suspended sediment transport beneath surface waves are based on the turbulent diffusion concept. However, it is recognised that this approach is questionable for the suspension of sediment when the seabed is rippled. In this case, at least if the ripples are sufficiently steep, the entrainment process is likely to be well organised, and associated with vortex formation and shedding from the ripples. To investigate the entrainment process above ripples, a study was carried out in a large-scale wave flume facility. Utilising acoustic techniques, visualisations of the intra-wave sediment entrainment above vortex ripples have been generated. The observations provide a detailed description of entrainment, which is interpreted here in relation to the process of vortex formation and shedding. It is anticipated that such measurements will contribute to the development of improved physical process models of sediment transport in the rippled bed regime.

Transient controls on estuarine SPM fluxes: case study in the Dee Estuary, UK.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Amoudry, Laurent; Williams, Megan; Todd, David

2017-04-01

Estuaries are a critical interface between land and coastal ocean across which freshwater, suspended particulate matter (SPM), and consequently terrestrial carbon, nutrients and anthropogenic contaminants are exchanged. Suspended particulate matter is closely linked to estuarine turbidity; it affects water quality and estuarine ecology; and it contributes to overall estuarine sediment budgets. However, predicting the response of estuarine ecosystems to climate change and human interventions remains difficult partly due to a lack of comprehensive understanding of SPM concentrations and fluxes across time scales from intratidal to seasonal and interannual variability. We investigate the dynamics of suspended sediment and suspended particulate matter in a hypertidal estuary with a maximum tidal range in excess of 10 m and tidal currents reaching over 1 m/s: the Dee Estuary. This estuary is located in northwest England and outflows in Liverpool Bay, itself in the eastern Irish Sea. The Dee Estuary is a funnel-shaped, coastal plain estuary, which is about 30 km long with a maximum width of 8.5 km at the mouth, and consists of mixed sediments. We focus on field observations, collected during several campaigns in the channels of the Dee Estuary from 2004 to 2009 using acoustic and optical instrumentation, which provide intratidal measurements of flow velocity and suspended sediment, and thus sediment fluxes, over approximately a month. Measurements in February-March 2008 highlight three distinct hydrodynamic regimes: a current dominant regime at neap tides (14-21 February); a combined wave-current regime at spring tides (21-29 February); and a wave dominant regime at neap tide (1-4 March). While analysis of tidal distortion and dominance predicts weak ebb dominant channels, the observations yield flood dominant sediment transport. The net sediment flux exhibits a two-layer structure - import near the bed, export near the surface - that is consistent with the residual circulations in the estuary. Wavelet analysis provides clear evidence that such influx of sediment in the estuary is alternatively the result of periodic stratification at neap tides and of tidal asymmetry in suspended sediment concentration at spring tides. Such transient processes will be important to determine and predict estuarine responses to short-lived perturbations. Further analysis of other field campaigns will enable to determine the persistence of these processes over seasonal and annual timescales.

Numerical modeling of hydrodynamics and sediment transport—an integrated approach

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gic-Grusza, Gabriela; Dudkowska, Aleksandra

2017-10-01

Point measurement-based estimation of bedload transport in the coastal zone is very difficult. The only way to assess the magnitude and direction of bedload transport in larger areas, particularly those characterized by complex bottom topography and hydrodynamics, is to use a holistic approach. This requires modeling of waves, currents, and the critical bed shear stress and bedload transport magnitude, with a due consideration to the realistic bathymetry and distribution of surface sediment types. Such a holistic approach is presented in this paper which describes modeling of bedload transport in the Gulf of Gdańsk. Extreme storm conditions defined based on 138-year NOAA data were assumed. The SWAN model (Booij et al. 1999) was used to define wind-wave fields, whereas wave-induced currents were calculated using the Kołodko and Gic-Grusza (2015) model, and the magnitude of bedload transport was estimated using the modified Meyer-Peter and Müller (1948) formula. The calculations were performed using a GIS model. The results obtained are innovative. The approach presented appears to be a valuable source of information on bedload transport in the coastal zone.

Shoreline changes at the mouths of the Mekong River delta over the last 50 years: fluctuating sediment supply and shoreline cells

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Anthony, E.; Besset, M.; Brunier, G.; Dussouillez, P.; Dolique, F.; Nguyen, V. L.; Goichot, M.

2014-12-01

River delta shorelines may be characterized by complex patterns of sediment transport and sequestering at various timescales in response to changes in sediment supply, hydrodynamic conditions, and deltaic self-organization. While being good indicators of delta stability, these changes also have important coastal management and defence implications. These aspects are examined with reference to the mouths of the Mekong River delta, the world's third largest delta, backbone of the Vietnamese economy and home to nearly 20 million people. We conducted an analysis of shoreline fluctuations over the last five decades using low-resolution Landsat (1973-2014), very high-resolution SPOT 5 (2003-2011) satellite imagery, topographic maps (1950, 1965), and field hydrodynamic and shoreline topographic measurements. The results show that the 250 km-long river-mouth sector of the delta shoreline has been characterized by overall accretion but with marked temporal and spatial variations. The temporal pattern is attributed to fluctuations in sediment supply due to both human activities and natural variations in catchment sediment loads (e.g., 2000-2003), and natural adjustments in delta-plain sediment storage and delivery to the coast. The spatial pattern is indicative of discrete sediment cells that may be a response to an overall decreasing sand supply, especially since 2003, following increasingly massive riverbed mining with concomitant losses in channel-bed sand. Field measurements show the prevalence of mesotidal bar-trough beaches characterized by sand migration to the southwest in response to energetic dry-season monsoon waves. Beaches underfed as a result of both wave-energy gradients and possible diminishing sand supply from the adjacent river mouths are eroded to feed accreting beaches. Understanding this cell pattern has important implications in terms of: (1) interpreting past patterns of shoreline translation involved in the construction of successive beach ridges that characterise the prograding mouths sector of the Mekong; (2) linking shoreline stability/instability with coastal sand supply by the Mekong River and the impacts of human activities on this supply; (3) shoreline management and defence planning in the critical sandy river-mouth sector of this densely populated delta.

Electrokinetic Transduction of Acoustic Waves In Ocean Sediments

DTIC Science & Technology

2002-09-30

acoustic —motion in ocean sediments. The Biot theory of poroelastic media captures much of the sediment physics left out by other models [2]. It fits...in subsurface acoustical imaging, Mine Counter- Measures, and Anti-Submarine Warfare. To obtain essential experimental data to support the modeling ...Electrokinetic Transduction of Acoustic Waves In Ocean Sediments Gareth I. Block Applied Research Laboratories, U.T. Austin P.O. Box 8029

Slide-induced waves, seiching and ground fracturing caused by the earthquake of March 27, 1964 at Kenai Lake, Alaska: Chapter A in The Alaska earthquake, March 27, 1964: regional effects

USGS Publications Warehouse

McCulloch, David S.

1966-01-01

The March 27, 1964, earthquake dislodged slides from nine deltas in Kenai Lake, south-central Alaska. Sliding removed protruding parts of deltas-often the youngest parts-and steepened delta fronts, increasing the chances of further sliding. Fathograms show that debris from large slides spread widely over the lake floor, some reaching the toe of the opposite shore; at one place debris traveled 5,000 feet over the horizontal lake floor. Slides generated two kinds of local waves: a backfill and far-shore wave. Backfill waves were formed by water that rushed toward the delta to fill the void left by the sinking slide mass, overtopped the slide scrap, and came ashore over the delta. Some backfill waves had runup heights of 30 feet and ran inland more than 300 feet, uprooting and breaking off large trees. Far-shore waves hit the shore opposite the slides. They were formed by slide debris that crossed the lake floor and forced water ahead of it, which then ran up the opposite slope, burst above the lake surface, and struck the shore. One far-shore wave had a runup height of 72 feet. Kenai Lake was tilted and seiched; a power spectrum analysis of a limnogram shows a wave having the period of the calculated uninodal seiche (36 minutes) and several shorter period waves. In constricted and shallow reaches, waves caused by seiching had 20- and 30-foot runup heights. Deep lateral spreading of sediments toward delta margins displaced deeply driven railroad-bridge piles, and set up stress fields in the surface sediments which resulted in the formation of many shear and some tension fractures on the surface of two deltas.

Nearshore hydrodynamics at pocket beaches with contrasting wave exposure in southern Portugal

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Horta, João; Oliveira, Sónia; Moura, Delminda; Ferreira, Óscar

2018-05-01

Pocket beaches on rocky coasts with headlands that control hydro-sedimentary processes are considered to be constrained sedimentary systems, generally with limited sediment inputs. Pocket beaches face severe changes over time. Under worst-case scenarios, these changes can result in the loss of the beach, causing waves to directly attack adjacent cliffs. Studies of nearshore hydrodynamics can help to understand such changes and optimise sediment nourishment procedures. The present work contributes to the knowledge of hydrodynamic forcing mechanisms at pocket beaches by providing a comprehensive description of the nearshore circulation at two beaches with contrasting wave exposures. Two pocket beaches in southern Portugal were studied by combining field measurements of waves and currents with numerical models (STWAVE and BOUSS-2D). The aim of this analysis was to evaluate nearshore hydrodynamics under different wave exposure forcing conditions (e.g. variable wave heights/directions and different tidal levels). The results show that the beach circulation can rapidly shift from longshore-to rip-dominated depending on changes in both the offshore wave direction and tidal levels. Waves with higher obliquity (for both low and moderate wave energy conditions) tend to generate longshore circulation in all considered tidal stages, while waves with lower obliquity tend to produce rip flow with higher-velocity rip currents during low to intermediate tidal stages. The results indicate that the location and intensity of rip currents strongly depend on geomorphological constraints, that is, the control exerted by shore platforms. A larger morphological control is observed at mean sea level because most platforms are submerged/exposed during high/low tide and therefore exert less control on nearshore circulation.

Impact of boat generated waves over an estuarine intertidal zone of the Seine estuary (France)

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Deloffre, Julien; Lafite, Robert

2015-04-01

Water movements in macrotidal estuaries are controlled by the tidal regime modulated seasonally by the fluvial discharge. Wind effect on hydrodynamics and sediment transport is also reported at the mouth. Besides estuaries are frequently man altered our knowledge on the human impact on hydrodynamics and sediment transport is less extended. As an example on the Seine estuary (France) port authorities have put emphasis on facilitating economic exchanges by means of embankment building and increased dredging activity over the last century. These developments led to secure sea vessel traffic in the Seine estuary but they also resulted in a change of estuarine hydrodynamics and sediment transport features. Consequences of boat generated waves are varied: increased water turbidity and sediment transfer, release of nutrient and contaminants in the water column, harmful to users, ecosystems and infrastructures generating important maintenance spending. The aim of this study is to analyse the impact of boat generated waves on sediment transport over an intertidal area. The studied site is located on the left bank in the fluvial part of the Seine estuary. On this site the maximum tidal range ranges between 1.25 and 3.5m respectively during neap and spring tide. The sampling strategy is based on continuous ADV acquisition at 4Hz coupled with turbidimeter and altimeter measurements (1 measurement every minute) in order to decipher sediment dynamics during one year. Our results indicate that sediment dynamics are controlled by river flow while medium term scale evolution is dependent on tidal range and short term dynamics on sea-vessels waves. 64% of boat passages generated significant sediment reworking (from few mm.min-1 to 3cm.min-1). This reworking rate is mainly controlled by two parameters: (i) water height on the site and (ii) vessels characteristics; in particular the distance between seabed and keel that generate a Bernoulli wave (with maximum amplitude of 0.6m). Simultaneous hydrodynamics and bed elevation measurements permit to quantify the impact of the boat generated wave. Measurements demonstrate that the sediment transport occurs during the Bernoulli wave (few mm up to 8cm). This mechanism induces mainly a long-shore transfer of particles over the interdal area. This study proves that the sediment transport generated by boat waves cannot be neglected in the Seine estuary case.

Multimode seismoelectric phenomena generated using explosive and vibroseis sources

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Butler, Karl E.; Kulessa, Bernd; Pugin, André J.-M.

2018-05-01

A field trial of seismoelectric surveying was carried out at a site underlain by 20 m of water-saturated clayey Champlain Sea sediments, renowned for their amenability to high resolution imaging by seismic reflection surveys. Seismically induced electrokinetic effects were recorded using an array of 26 grounded dipole electric field antennas, and two different seismic sources including an eight-gauge shotgun, and a moderate power (10 000 lb Minivib) vibrator. Despite the high electrical conductivity of the sediments, shot records show evidence of possible interfacial seismoelectric conversions caused by the arrival of P-waves at the base of the clay/top of bedrock and at the top of a layer of elevated porosity and conductivity within the clay at 7 m depth. However, the data are more remarkable for the fact that P-wave, S-wave, and PS/SP converted wave reflections evident in the seismic records all give rise to electrical arrivals exhibiting very similar moveout patterns in the seismoelectric records. Superficially, these electrical responses could be misinterpreted as simple coseismic seismoelectric effects associated with the arrival of reflected seismic waves at each dipole antenna on surface. However, their broader bandwidth, superior coherency and earlier arrival times compared to their corresponding seismic arrivals indicate that the electrical effects are generated by the arrival of seismic reflections below each dipole at the shallow intraclay interface 7 m below surface. Such quasi-coseismic arrivals have recently been predicted by full-waveform seismoelectric modelling and characterized as evanescent electromagnetic (EM) waves. In retrospect, they were also observed in earlier seismoelectric field trials, but not measured as clearly nor recognized as a distinct seismoelectric mode intermediate between interfacial and coseismic effects. We propose that the observed quasi-coseismic effect can be understood physically as a fringing field emanating from the travelling charge separation associated with a P-wave (direct or mode-converted) crossing a subsurface interface at an oblique angle. Such effects may be nearly indistinguishable from coseismic effects if the interface depth is small compared to the seismic wavelength, but recognition of the phenomenon contributes to an improved understanding of the seismoelectric wavefield, and will lead to improved interpretations. From a practical standpoint, the results of this field trial suggest that using electric field receivers to supplement geophones on surface could yield significantly higher resolution seismic reflection images in those areas where suitable near-surface layers exist for the generation of quasi-coseismic effects. The results also reinforce the importance of using multichannel recording to allow interfacial seismoelectric conversions originating at depth to be distinguished from stronger coseismic and quasi-coseismic arrivals originating in the near-surface by measurement of their arrival time versus offset (moveout) and amplitude versus offset behaviours.

Seismic wave velocity of hydrate-bearing fine-grained sediments sampled from the Ulleung basin in East Sea, Korea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kim, H.; Kwon, T.; Cho, G.

2012-12-01

Synthesizing gas hydrate in a fine-grained natural seabed sediment sample, mainly composed of silty-to-clayey soils, has been hardly attempted due to the low permeability. It has been known that hydrate loci in pore spaces and heterogeneity of hydrate growth in core-scale play a critical role in determining physical properties of hydrate-bearing sediments. In the presented study, we attempted to identify the effect of hydrate growth morphology on seismic velocities in natural fine-grained sediments sampled from the Ulleung Basin in East Sea. We synthesized CO2 hydrate in clayey silt sediments in an instrumented oedometric cell and measured seismic velocities during hydrate formation and loading processes. Herein, we present the experiment results on P-wave and S-wave velocities of gas hydrate-bearing fine-grained sediments. It is found that the geophysical properties of gas hydrate-bearing sediments are governed by hydrate saturation and effective stress as well as morphological feature of hydrate formation in sediments.

Reprint of: A numerical investigation of fine sediment resuspension in the wave boundary layer-Uncertainties in particle inertia and hindered settling

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Cheng, Zhen; Yu, Xiao; Hsu, Tian-Jian; Balachandar, S.

2016-05-01

The wave bottom boundary layer is a major conduit delivering fine terrestrial sediments to continental margins. Hence, studying fine sediment resuspensions in the wave boundary layer is crucial to the understanding of various components of the earth system, such as carbon cycles. By assuming the settling velocity to be a constant in each simulation, previous turbulence-resolving numerical simulations reveal the existence of three transport modes in the wave boundary layer associated with sediment availabilities. As the sediment availability and hence the sediment-induced stable stratification increases, a sequence of transport modes, namely, (I) well-mixed transport, (II) formulation of lutocline resembling a two-layer system, and (III) completely laminarized transport are observed. In general, the settling velocity is a flow variable due to hindered settling and particle inertia effects. Present numerical simulations including the particle inertia suggest that for a typical wave condition in continental shelves, the effect of particle inertia is negligible. Through additional numerical experiments, we also confirm that the particle inertia tends (up to the Stokes number St = 0.2) to attenuate flow turbulence. On the other hand, for flocs with lower gelling concentrations, the hindered settling can play a key role in sustaining a large amount of suspended sediments and results in the laminarized transport (III). For the simulation with a very significant hindered settling effect due to a low gelling concentration, results also indicate the occurrence of gelling ignition, a state in which the erosion rate is always higher than the deposition rate. A sufficient condition for the occurrence of gelling ignition is hypothesized for a range of wave intensities as a function of sediment/floc properties and erodibility parameters.

Vortex-induced suspension of sediment in the surf zone

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Otsuka, Junichi; Saruwatari, Ayumi; Watanabe, Yasunori

2017-12-01

A major mechanism of sediment suspension by organized vortices produced under violent breaking waves in the surf zone was identified through physical and computational experiments. Counter-rotating flows within obliquely descending eddies produced between adjacent primary roller vortices induce transverse convergent near-bed flows, driving bed load transport to form regular patterns of transverse depositions. The deposited sediment is then rapidly ejected by upward carrier flows induced between the vortices. This mechanism of vortex-induced suspension is supported by experimental evidence that coherent sediment clouds are ejected where the obliquely descending eddies reach the sea bed after the breaking wave front has passed. In addition to the effects of settling and turbulent diffusion caused by breaking waves, the effect of the vortex-induced flows was incorporated into a suspension model on the basis of vorticity dynamics and parametric characteristics of transverse flows in breaking waves. The model proposed here reasonably predicts an exponential attenuation of the measured sediment concentration due to violent plunging waves and significantly improves the underprediction of the concentration produced by previous models.

[Effects of sediment on the early settlement stage of Sargassum horneri on rocky subtidal reefs].

PubMed

Bi, Yuan-Xin; Zhang, Shou-Yu; Wu, Zu-Li

2013-05-01

By using sediment trap and suction pump to measure the relative sediment levels across different sites and water depths, and through the in situ measurements of Sargassum horneri density, this paper assessed the relationships between the distribution of S. horneri and the sediment levels and wave exposure on the rocky subtidal platforms around Gouqi Island, China. The laboratory-based experiments were also conducted to test the effects of different sediment levels on the attachment of S. horneri zygote and the survival rate of S. horneri germling after the attachment. S. horneri predominated at the sites with lesser sediment and wave exposure, but less distributed in the sites with high level sediment and wave-exposure. At different water depths, the distribution of S. horneri was negatively correlated with the amount of sediment. A medium dusting (dry mass 10.47 mg x cm(-2), approximate 0.543 mm deep) of sediment on the plate reduced the percentage of S. horneri zygotes attached to the substratum by 4.4%, and a heavy dusting (dry mass 13.96 mg x cm(-2), approximate 0.724 mm deep) of sediment on the plate completely prevented the attachment. One week after the settlement of the zygotes, there were 24% of the germlings still survived when the dry mass sediment coverage was 13.96 mg x cm(-2). However, when the dry mass sediment coverage was up to 34.9 mg x cm(-2) (approximate 1.81 mm deep), 100% of the germlings died. Overall, the distribution of S. horneri was not only related to sediment level, but also restricted by wave exposure to some extent. Sediment level was a critical factor affecting the distribution of S. horneri, particularly at its zygote attachment stage.

Patterns of sediment dispersion coastwise the State of Bahia - Brazil.

PubMed

Bittencourt; Dominguez; Martin; Silva

2000-06-01

Using the average directions of the main wave-fronts which approach the coast of Bahia State - coinciding with that of the main wind occurring in the area - and of their periods, we define a wave climate model based on the construction of refraction diagrams. The resulting model of sediment transport was able to reproduce, in a general way, the sediment dispersion patterns furnished by geomorphic indicators of the littoral drift. These dispersion patterns control the generation of different types of sediment accumulations and of coastal stretches under erosion. We demonstrate that the presence of the Abrolhos and Corumbaú Point coral reefs is an important factor controlling the sediment dispersion patterns, since them act as a large protection against the waves action.

Using nonlinear forecasting to learn the magnitude and phasing of time-varying sediment suspension in the surf zone

USGS Publications Warehouse

Jaffe, B.E.; Rubin, D.M.

1996-01-01

The time-dependent response of sediment suspension to flow velocity was explored by modeling field measurements collected in the surf zone during a large storm. Linear and nonlinear models were created and tested using flow velocity as input and suspended-sediment concentration as output. A sequence of past velocities (velocity history), as well as velocity from the same instant as the suspended-sediment concentration, was used as input; this velocity history length was allowed to vary. The models also allowed for a lag between input (instantaneous velocity or end of velocity sequence) and output (suspended-sediment concentration). Predictions of concentration from instantaneous velocity or instantaneous velocity raised to a power (up to 8) using linear models were poor (correlation coefficients between predicted and observed concentrations were less than 0.10). Allowing a lag between velocity and concentration improved linear models (correlation coefficient of 0.30), with optimum lag time increasing with elevation above the seabed (from 1.5 s at 13 cm to 8.5 s at 60 cm). These lags are largely due to the time for an observed flow event to effect the bed and mix sediment upward. Using a velocity history further improved linear models (correlation coefficient of 0.43). The best linear model used 12.5 s of velocity history (approximately one wave period) to predict concentration. Nonlinear models gave better predictions than linear models, and, as with linear models, nonlinear models using a velocity history performed better than models using only instantaneous velocity as input. Including a lag time between the velocity and concentration also improved the predictions. The best model (correlation coefficient of 0.58) used 3 s (approximately a quarter wave period) of the cross-shore velocity squared, starting at 4.5 s before the observed concentration, to predict concentration. Using a velocity history increases the performance of the models by specifying a more complete description of the dynamical forcing of the flow (including accelerations and wave phase and shape) responsible for sediment suspension. Incorporating such a velocity history and a lag time into the formulation of the forcing for time-dependent models for sediment suspension in the surf zone will greatly increase our ability to predict suspended-sediment transport.

Cross-shore transport of nearshore sediment by river plume frontal pumping

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Horner-Devine, Alexander R.; Pietrzak, Julie D.; Souza, Alejandro J.; McKeon, Margaret A.; Meirelles, Saulo; Henriquez, Martijn; Flores, Raúl P.; Rijnsburger, Sabine

2017-06-01

We present a new mechanism for cross-shore transport of fine sediment from the nearshore to the inner shelf resulting from the onshore propagation of river plume fronts. Onshore frontal propagation is observed in moorings and radar images, which show that fronts penetrate onshore through the nearshore and surf zone, almost to the waterline. During frontal passage a two-layer counterrotating velocity field characteristic of tidal straining is immediately set up, generating a net offshore flow beneath the plume. The seaward flow at depth carries with it high suspended sediment concentrations, which appear to have been generated by wave resuspension in the nearshore region. These observations describe a mechanism by which vertical density stratification can drive exchange of material between the nearshore region and the inner shelf. To our knowledge these are the first observations of this frontal pumping mechanism, which is expected to play an important role in sediment transport near river mouths.

Effects of wind-wave disturbances on adsorption and desorption of tetracycline and sulfadimidine in water-sediment systems.

PubMed

Liao, Qianjiahua; Huang, Zheng; Li, Shu; Wang, Yi; Liu, Yuqing; Luo, Ran; Shang, Jingge

2018-05-28

Wind-wave disturbances frequently disperse sediment particles into overlying water, which facilitates the adsorption and desorption of contaminants in aquatic ecosystems. Tetracycline (TC) and sulfadimidine (SM2) are common antibiotics that are frequently found in aquatic environments. This study utilized microcosms, comprising sediment and water from Lake Taihu, China, to examine the adsorption and desorption of TC and SM2 under different wind-wave disturbances in a shallow lake environment. The adsorption experiments were conducted with three different concentrations (1, 5, 10 mg/L) of TC and SM2 in the overlying water, and two different (background and strong) wind-wave conditions for 72 h. Subsequently, four microcosms were employed in a 12-h desorption study. Analysis of adsorption progress showed that TC concentration in the overlying water decreased quickly, while SM2 remained almost constant. In the desorption experiments, SM2 released to the overlying water was an order of magnitude greater than TC. These results indicate that sediment particles strongly adsorb TC but weakly adsorb SM2. Compared to background conditions, the strong wind-wave conditions resulted in higher concentrations of TC and SM2 in sediment and facilitated their migration to deeper sediment during adsorption, correspondingly promoting greater release of TC and SM2 from sediment particles into the overlying water during desorption.

Supply and dispersal of flood sediment from a steep, tropical watershed: Hanalei Bay, Kaua'i, Hawai'i, USA

USGS Publications Warehouse

Draut, A.E.; Bothner, Michael H.; Field, M.E.; Reynolds, R.L.; Cochran, S.A.; Logan, J.B.; Storlazzi, C.D.; Berg, C.J.

2009-01-01

In contrast to many small, mountainous watersheds in temperate coastal regions, where fluvial discharge and wave energy commonly coincide, deposition and reworking of tropical flood sediment can be seasonally decoupled, and this has important implications for coral-reef ecosystems. An understanding of the interaction between tropical flood sedimentation and wave climate is essential to identifying and mitigating effects of watershed changes on coral reefs as urbanization and climate change proceed. Sedimentary facies and isotopic properties of sediment in Hanalei Bay, on the island of Kaua'i, Hawai'i, USA, were used to assess deposition and reworking of flood deposits from the Hanalei River in a case study demonstrating the potential ecosystem effects of runoff from a steep, tropical watershed. In Hanalei Bay, the youngest and thickest terrigenous sediment was consistently present near the river mouth and in a bathymetric depression that acted as at least a temporary sediment sink. During this 2 yr study, the largest flood events occurred in late winter and spring 2006; substantial terrestrial sediment delivered by those floods still remained in the bay as of June 2006 because oceanic conditions were not sufficiently energetic to transport all of the sediment offshore. Additional sediment was deposited in the bay by a summer 2006 flood that coincided with seasonal low wave energy. In most years, flood sediment accumulating in the bay and on its fringing reefs would be remobilized and advected out of the bay during winter, when the wave climate is energetic. Turbidity and sedimentation on corals resulting from late spring and summer floods during low wave energy could have a greater impact on coral-reef ecosystems than floods in other seasons, an effect that could be exacerbated if the incidence and sediment load of tropical summer floods increase due to urbanization and climate change. ?? 2008 Geological Society of America.

Numerical experiments on breaking waves on contrasting beaches using a two-phase flow approach

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bakhtyar, R.; Barry, D. A.; Kees, C. E.

2012-11-01

A mechanistic understanding of beach environments needs to account for interactions of oceanic forcing and beach materials, in particular the role of waves on the evolution of the beach profile. A fully coupled two-phase flow model was used to simulate nearshore fluid-sediment turbulent flow in the cross-shore direction. It includes the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes equations and turbulent stress closures for each phase, and accounts for inter-granular stresses. The model has previously been validated using laboratory-scale data, so the results are likely more reliable for that scale. It was used to simulate wave breaking and the ensuing hydrodynamics and sediment transport processes in the surf/swash zones. Numerical experiments were conducted to investigate the effects of varying beach and wave characteristics (e.g., beach slope, sediment grain size, wave periods and heights) on the foreshore profile changes. Spilling and plunging breakers occur on dissipative and intermediate beaches, respectively. The impact of these wave/beach types on nearshore zone hydrodynamics and beach morphology was determined. The numerical results showed that turbulent kinetic energy, sediment concentrations and transport rate are greater on intermediate than on dissipative beaches. The results confirmed that wave energy, beach grain size and bed slope are main factors for sediment transport and beach morphodynamics. The location of the maximum sediment transport is near the breaking point for both beach types. Coarse- and fine-sand beaches differ significantly in their erosive characteristics (e.g., foreshore profile evolutions are erosive and accretionary on the fine and coarse sand beaches, respectively). In addition, a new parameter (based on main driving factors) is proposed that can characterize the sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. The results are consistent with existing physical observations, suggesting that the two-phase flow model is suitable for the simulation of hyper-concentrated mixed water-sediment flows in the nearshore. The model thus has potential as a useful tool for investigating interactions between nearshore hydrodynamics and beach morphology.

Longshore Sediment Transport Rate Calculated Incorporating Wave Orbital Velocity Fluctuations

DTIC Science & Technology

2006-09-01

distribution of longshore sediment transport in the surf zone is necessary in the design and planning of groins, jetties, weirs and pipeline landfalls...transported by any current. Breaker height is defined as the vertical distance between the wave crest and the preceding wave trough at incipient...terminology; spilling breakers occur if the wave crest becomes unstable and flows down the front face of the wave producing a foamy water surface; plunging

Vertical migration of fine-grained sediments from interior to surface of seabed driven by seepage flows-`sub-bottom sediment pump action'

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zhang, Shaotong; Jia, Yonggang; Wen, Mingzheng; Wang, Zhenhao; Zhang, Yaqi; Zhu, Chaoqi; Li, Bowen; Liu, Xiaolei

2017-02-01

A scientific hypothesis is proposed and preliminarily verified in this paper: under the driving of seepage flows, there might be a vertical migration of fine-grained soil particles from interior to surface of seabed, which is defined as `sub-bottom sediment pump action' in this paper. Field experiments were performed twice on the intertidal flat of the Yellow River delta to study this process via both trapping the pumped materials and recording the pore pressures in the substrate. Experimental results are quite interesting as we did observe yellow slurry which is mainly composed of fine-grained soil particles appearing on the seabed surface; seepage gradients were also detected in the intertidal flat, under the action of tides and small wind waves. Preliminary conclusions are that `sediment pump' occurs when seepage force exceeds a certain threshold: firstly, it is big enough to disconnect the soil particles from the soil skeleton; secondly, the degree of seabed fluidization or bioturbation is big enough to provide preferred paths for the detached materials to migrate upwards. Then they would be firstly pumped from interior to the surface of seabed and then easily re-suspended into overlying water column. Influential factors of `sediment pump' are determined as hydrodynamics (wave energy), degree of consolidation, index of bioturbation (permeability) and content of fine-grained materials (sedimentary age). This new perspective of `sediment pump' may provide some implications for the mechanism interpretation of several unclear geological phenomena in the Yellow River delta area.

Instrument Correction and Dynamic Site Profile Validation at the Central United States Seismic Observatory, New Madrid Seismic Zone

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Brengman, C.; Woolery, E. W.; Wang, Z.; Carpenter, S.

2016-12-01

The Central United States Seismic Observatory (CUSSO) is a vertical seismic array located in southwestern Kentucky within the New Madrid seismic zone. It is intended to describe the effects of local geology, including thick sediment overburden, on seismic-wave propagation, particularly strong-motion. The three-borehole array at CUSSO is composed of seismic sensors placed on the surface, and in the bedrock at various depths within the 585 m thick sediment overburden. The array's deep borehole provided a unique opportunity in the northern Mississippi embayment for the direct geological description and geophysical measurement of the complete late Cretaceous-Quaternary sediment column. A seven layer, intra-sediment velocity model is interpreted from the complex, inhomogeneous stratigraphy. The S- and P-wave sediment velocities range between 160 and 875 m/s and between 1000 and 2300 m/s, respectively, with bedrock velocities of 1452 and 3775 m/s, respectively. Cross-correlation and direct comparisons were used to filter out the instrument response and determine the instrument orientation, making CUSSO data ready for analysis, and making CUSSO a viable calibration site for other free-field sensors in the area. The corrected bedrock motions were numerically propagated through the CUSSO soil profile (transfer function) and compared, in terms of both peak acceleration and amplitude spectra, to the recorded surface observations. Initial observations reveal a complex spectral mix of amplification and de-amplification across the array, indicating the site effect in this deep sediment setting is not simply generated by the shallowest layers.

Summary of oceanographic and water-quality measurements in Rachel Carson National Wildlife Refuge, Wells, Maine, in 2013

USGS Publications Warehouse

Montgomery, Ellyn T.; Ganju, Neil K.; Dickhudt, Patrick J.; Borden, Jonathan; Martini, Marinna A.; Brosnahan, Sandra M.

2015-01-01

Suspended-sediment transport is a critical element controlling the geomorphology of tidal wetland complexes. Wetlands rely on organic material and inorganic sediment deposition to maintain their elevation relative to sea level. The U.S. Geological Survey performed observational deployments to measure suspended-sediment concentration and water flow rates in the tidal channels of the wetlands in the Rachel Carson National Wildlife Refuge in Wells, Maine. The objective was to characterize the sediment-transport mechanisms that contribute to the net sediment budget of the wetland complex. We deployed a meteorological tower, optical turbidity sensors, and acoustic velocity meters at sites on Stephens Brook and the Ogunquit River between March 27 and December 9, 2013. This report presents the time-series oceanographic and atmospheric data collected during those field studies. The oceanographic parameters include water velocity, depth, turbidity, salinity, temperature, and pH. The atmospheric parameters include wind direction, speed, and gust; air temperature; air pressure; relative humidity; short wave radiation; and photosynthetically active radiation.

Measurement of Sediment Deposition Rates using an Optical Backscatter Sensor

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ridd, P.; Day, G.; Thomas, S.; Harradence, J.; Fox, D.; Bunt, J.; Renagi, O.; Jago, C.

2001-02-01

An optical method for measuring siltation of sediment has been developed using an optical fibre backscatter (OBS) nephelometer. Sediment settling upon the optical fibre sensor causes an increase in the backscatter reading which can be related to the settled sediment surface density (SSSD) as measured in units of mg cm -2. Calibration and laboratory tests indicate that the resolution of measurements of SSSD is 0·01 mg cm -2and an accuracy of 5% in still water. In moving water it is more difficult to determine the accuracy of the method because other methods with suitable resolution are unavailable. However, indirect methods using measurements of changing suspended sediment concentration in a ring flume, indicate that the OBS method under-predicts deposition. The series of siltation from three field sites are presented. This sensor offers considerable advances over other methods of measuring settling because time series of settling may be taken and thus settling events may be related to other hydrodynamic parameters such as wave climate and currents.

Sediment dispersal in modern and mid-Holocene basins: implications for shoreline progradation and sediment bypassing, Poverty Bay, New Zealand

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bever, A. J.; Harris, C. K.; McNinch, J.

2006-12-01

Poverty Bay is a small embayment located on the eastern shore of New Zealand's North Island. The modern Waipaoa River, a small mountainous river that drains highly erodible mudstone and siltstone, discharges ~15 million tons of sediment per year to Poverty Bay. Rates of bay infilling from fluvial sediment have varied since the maximum shoreline transgression, ~7000 kya. The evolving geometry of Poverty Bay has likely impacted sediment dispersal over these timescales, and thereby influenced the stratigraphic architecture, rates of shoreline progradation, and sediment supply to the continental shelf. This modeling study investigates sediment transport within both modern and paleo, ~7000 kya, Poverty Bays. The Regional Ocean Modeling System was used to examine sediment transport within modern and ~7000 kya Poverty Bay basin geometries. The numerical model includes hydrodynamics driven by winds and buoyancy, and sediment resuspension from energetic waves and currents. Strong winds and waves from the southeast were used, along with high Waipaoa freshwater and sediment discharge, consistent with storm conditions. Besides shedding light on short term transport mechanisms, these results are being incorporated into a stratigraphic model by Wolinsky and Swenson. The paleo basin geometry narrowed at the head of the bay, causing currents to converge and promoting near- field sediment deposition. Buoyancy and wind driven across-shelf currents in the modern bay transport sediment away from the river mouth. Sediment was deposited closer to the river mouth in the paleo than the modern bay, and the modern bay exported much more sediment to the continental shelf than predicted for the middle Holocene bay. Net across-shelf fluxes decreased from a maximum at the head of the bay to nearly zero at the mouth during the paleo run. The modern run, however, had net across-shelf fluxes still half the maximum at the bay mouth. Results from short term model runs indicated that, with similar river discharges, the 7000 kya Poverty Bay shoreline should have prograded rapidly as sediment was deposited near the river mouth at the head of the bay, an area of little accommodation space. The trapping of sediment within the bay would have lead to a relatively sediment starved continental shelf. As the river mouth progressed towards the wider section of the bay, progradation should have been reduced as both proximal accommodation space and sediment export to the continental shelf increased.

Causes and ecological effects of resuspended contaminated sediments (RCS) in marine environments.

PubMed

Roberts, David A

2012-04-01

Sediments act as a net sink for anthropogenic contaminants in marine ecosystems and contaminated sediments may have a range of toxicological effects on benthic fauna and associated species. When resuspended, however, particulate-bound contaminants may be remobilised into the water column and become bioavailable to an additional assemblage of species. Such resuspension occurs through a range of natural and anthropogenic processes each of which may be thought of as pulsed disturbances resulting in pulsed exposures to contaminants. Thus, it is important to understand not only the toxicological responses of organisms to resuspended contaminated sediments (RCS), but also the frequency, magnitude and duration of sediment disturbance events. Such information is rarely collected together with toxicological data. Rather, the majority of published studies (>50% of the articles captured in this review) have taken the form of fixed-duration laboratory-based exposures with individual species. While this research has clearly demonstrated that resuspension of contaminated sediments can liberate sediment-bound contaminants leading to toxicity and bioaccumulation under controlled conditions, the potential for ecological effects in the field is often unclear. Monitoring studies suggest that recurrent natural disturbances such as tides and waves may cause the majority of contaminant release in many environments. However, various processes also act to limit the spatial and temporal scales across which contaminants are remobilised to the most toxic dissolved state. Various natural and anthropogenic disturbances of contaminated sediments have been linked to both community-level and sub-lethal responses in exposed populations of invertebrates and fish in the field. Together these findings suggest that resuspension of contaminated sediments is a frequently recurring ecological threat in contaminated marine habitats. Further consideration of how marine communities respond to temporally variable exposures to RCS is required, as well as research into the relative importance of various disturbances under field conditions. Crown Copyright © 2011. Published by Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Southwest Washington littoral drift restoration—Beach and nearshore morphological monitoring

USGS Publications Warehouse

Stevens, Andrew W.; Gelfenbaum, Guy; Ruggiero, Peter; Kaminsky, George M.

2012-01-01

A morphological monitoring program has documented the placement and initial dispersal of beach nourishment material (280,000 m3) placed between the Mouth of the Columbia River (MCR) North Jetty and North Head, at the southern end of the Long Beach Peninsula in southwestern Washington State. A total of 21 topographic surveys and 8 nearshore bathymetric surveys were performed between July 11, 2010, and November 4, 2011. During placement, southerly alongshore transport resulted in movement of nourishment material to the south towards the MCR North Jetty. Moderate wave conditions (significant wave height around 4 m) following the completion of the nourishment resulted in cross-shore sediment transport, with most of the nourishment material transported into the nearshore bars. The nourishment acted as a buffer to the more severe erosion, including dune overtopping and retreat, that was observed at the northern end of the study area throughout the winter. One year after placement of the nourishment, onshore transport and beach recovery were most pronounced within the permit area and to the south toward the MCR North Jetty. This suggests that there is some long-term benefit of the nourishment for reducing erosion rates locally, although the enhanced recovery also could be due to natural gradients in alongshore transport causing net movement of the sediment from north to south. Measurements made during the morphological monitoring program documented the seasonal movement and decay of nearshore sand bars. Low-energy conditions in late summer resulted in onshore bar migration early in the monitoring program. Moderate wave conditions in the autumn resulted in offshore movement of the middle bar and continued onshore migration of the outer bar. High-energy wave conditions early in the winter resulted in strong cross-shore transport and creation of a 3-bar system along portions of the coast. More southerly wave events occurred later in the winter and early spring and coincided with the complete loss of the outer bar and net loss of sediment from the study area. These data suggest that bar decay may be an important mechanism for exporting sediment from Benson Beach north to the Long Beach Peninsula. The measurements presented in this report represent one component of a broader monitoring program designed to track the movement of nourishment material on the beach and shoreface at this location, including continuous video monitoring (Argus), in situu measurements of hydrodynamics, and a physical tracer experiment. Field data from the monitoring program will be used to test numerical models of hydrodynamics and sediment transport and to improve the capability of numerical models to support regional sediment management.

Spatial Statistics of Deep-Water Ambient Noise; Dispersion Relations for Sound Waves and Shear Waves

DTIC Science & Technology

2014-09-30

marine sediments. New focus is on very fine- grained sediments (silt and clay ). OBJECTIVES 1) The scientific objective of the deep-water ambient...density, grain size and overburden pressure. A new focus is on the inter-particle cohesive forces in silts and clays and their role in controlling wave...algebraic expressions. The GS theory is the basis for new research on very fine-grained sediments (silts and clays ), in which inter-granular cohesion is

Understanding Nearshore Processes Of a Large Arctic Delta Using Combined Seabed Mapping, In Situ Observations, Remote Sensing and Modeling

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Solomon, S. M.; Couture, N. J.; Forbes, D. L.; Hoque, A.; Jenner, K. A.; Lintern, G.; Mulligan, R. P.; Perrie, W. A.; Stevens, C. W.; Toulany, B.; Whalen, D.

2009-12-01

The Mackenzie River Delta and the adjacent continental shelf in the southeastern Beaufort Sea are known to host significant quantities of hydrocarbons. Recent environmental reviews of proposed hydrocarbon development have highlighted the need for a better understanding of the processes that control sediment transport and coastal stability. Over the past several years field surveys have been undertaken in winter, spring and summer to acquire data on seabed morphology, sediment properties, sea ice, river-ocean interaction and nearshore oceanography. These data are being used to improve conceptual models of nearshore processes and to develop and validate numerical models of waves, circulation and sediment transport. The timing and location of sediment erosion, transport and deposition is complex, driven by a combination of open water season storms and spring floods. Unlike temperate counterparts, the interaction between the Mackenzie River and the Beaufort Sea during spring freshet is mediated by the presence of ice cover. Increasing discharge exceeds the under-ice flow capacity leading to flooding of the ice surface, followed by vortex drainage through the ice and scour of the seabed below (“strudel” drainage and scour). During winter months, nearshore circulation slows beneath a thickening ice canopy. Recent surveys have shown that the low gradient inner shelf is composed of extensive shoals where ice freezes to the seabed and intervening zones which are slightly deeper than the ice is thick. The duration of ice contact with the bed determines the thermal characteristics of the seabed. Analysis of cores shows that the silts comprising the shoals are up to 6 m thick. The predominantly well sorted and cross-laminated nature of the silts at the top of the cores suggests an active delta front environment. Measurements of waves, currents, conductivity, temperature and sediment concentration during spring and late summer have been acquired. During moderate August storm events, waves attenuate rapidly inshore of the 3 m isobath. Entrainment of fine material and rapid flocculation due to the presence of brackish water may induce the transient formation of high density suspensions near the seabed which contributes to this rapid attenuation. The relatively poor performance of shallow water wave models (e.g. SWAN) in very shallow depths during storm simulations appears to be related to inaccurate formulations for wave attenuation in this environment.

Mechanisms of sediment transport to shoreline salients onshore of fringing coral reefs

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hansen, J.; Cuttler, M.; Traykovski, P.; Lowe, R.; Buckley, M. L.; Storlazzi, C. D.; Rosenberger, K. J.

2016-12-01

Shoreline salients, often extending several hundred metres seaward relative to the adjacent shoreline, are a common morphological feature found in the lee of many fringing coral reefs globally. However, the physical mechanisms that govern the formation and equilibrium dynamics of these salients remains poorly understood. A recent field experiment in NW Australia at Ningaloo Reef examined the mechanism of sediment delivery to a salient that extends 700 m seaward onshore of a 4 km long fringing reef that sits 2 km offshore. The experimental array consisted of wave, water level, and velocity measurements at >20 sites from 20 m depth offshore of the reef, the reef crest, and numerous sites throughout the 3 m depth lagoon shoreward of the reef. Two sites within the lagoon, one each side of the salient, also measured the migration of 0.5 m wavelength, 0.1 m high sand ripples using horizontal and vertically mounted echo sounders. Consistent with existing theory, mean (wave-averaged) flows in the lagoon shoreward of the reef and along the shoreline were divergent up to 0.2 m/s, corresponding to the circulation pattern resulting from wave breaking induced setup on the reef and associated mass flux into the lagoon, and seaward return flow through two lateral channels. These divergent alongshore mean flows are inconsistent the accreted shoreline morphology. However, the two sites that measured ripple properties and migration showed consistent migration in the local (salient following) onshore direction up to 2 m/day (mean 0.14 m/day across the two sites) resulting in onshore sediment fluxes as large as 200 kg/m/day (mean 10.1 kg/m/day) assuming ripple migration equates to net bedload transport. Despite the considerable infragravity energy within the lagoon ( 50% of the energy spectrum) the 0.5 m wavelength ripples were suborbital based on the orbital diameter of the 0.2-0.5 m high short waves which enter the lagoon via refraction through the lateral channels and incomplete dissipation over the reef. These preliminary results indicate that onshore ripple migration of biogenic sediment generated by the coral reef from short waves within the lagoon is the primary source of sediment to the salient. Additional analyses will focus on the hydrodynamic mechanisms responsible for the variable rate of migration.

Shear wave velocity and attenuation in the upper layer of ocean bottoms from long-range acoustic field measurements.

PubMed

Zhou, Ji-Xun; Zhang, Xue-Zhen

2012-12-01

Several physics-based seabed geoacoustic models (including the Biot theory) predict that compressional wave attenuation α(2) in sandy marine sediments approximately follows quadratic frequency dependence at low frequencies, i.e., α(2)≈kf(n) (dB/m), n=2. A recent paper on broadband geoacoustic inversions from low frequency (LF) field measurements, made at 20 locations around the world, has indicated that the frequency exponent of the effective sound attenuation n≈1.80 in a frequency band of 50-1000 Hz [Zhou et al., J. Acoust. Soc. Am. 125, 2847-2866 (2009)]. Carey and Pierce hypothesize that the discrepancy is due to the inversion models' neglect of shear wave effects [J. Acoust. Soc. Am. 124, EL271-EL277 (2008)]. The broadband geoacoustic inversions assume that the seabottom is an equivalent fluid and sound waves interact with the bottom at small grazing angles. The shear wave velocity and attenuation in the upper layer of ocean bottoms are estimated from the LF field-inverted effective bottom attenuations using a near-grazing bottom reflection expression for the equivalent fluid model, derived by Zhang and Tindle [J. Acoust. Soc. Am. 98, 3391-3396 (1995)]. The resultant shear wave velocity and attenuation are consistent with the SAX99 measurement at 25 Hz and 1000 Hz. The results are helpful for the analysis of shear wave effects on long-range sound propagation in shallow water.

Near-Bottom Turbulence and Sediment Resuspension Induced by Nonlinear Internal Waves

DTIC Science & Technology

2011-09-30

boundary layer (BBL) turbulence and particulate resuspension leading to benthic nepheloid layer ( BNL ) formation. OBJECTIVES The specific...identify mechanisms for the capturing of nearbed particles by the BBL-turbulence and their transport/deposition into BNLs . • Analyze field...resuspended particle distributions under NLIWs, a reliable proxy of BNLs , can be used to quantify the transmission or backscatter of optical/acoustic

CRUST 5.1: A global crustal model at 5° x 5°

USGS Publications Warehouse

Mooney, Walter D.; Laske, Gabi; Masters, T. Guy

1998-01-01

We present a new global model for the Earth's crust based on seismic refraction data published in the period 1948–1995 and a detailed compilation of ice and sediment thickness. An extensive compilation of seismic refraction measurements has been used to determine the crustal structure on continents and their margins. Oceanic crust is modeled with both a standard model for normal oceanic crust, and variants for nonstandard regions, such as oceanic plateaus. Our model (CRUST 5.1) consists of 2592 5° × 5° tiles in which the crust and uppermost mantle are described by eight layers: (1) ice, (2) water, (3) soft sediments, (4) hard sediments, (5) crystalline upper, (6) middle, (7) lower crust, and (8) uppermost mantle. Topography and bathymetry are adopted from a standard database (ETOPO-5). Compressional wave velocity in each layer is based on field measurements, and shear wave velocity and density are estimated using recently published empirical Vp- Vs and Vp-density relationships. The crustal model differs from previous models in that (1) the thickness and seismic/density structure of sedimentary basins is accounted for more completely, (2) the velocity structure of unmeasured regions is estimated using statistical averages that are based on a significantly larger database of crustal structure, (3) the compressional wave, shear wave, and density structure have been explicitly specified using newly available constraints from field and laboratory studies. Thus this global crustal model is based on substantially more data than previous models and differs from them in many important respects. A new map of the thickness of the Earth's crust is presented, and we illustrate the application of this model by using it to provide the crustal correction for surface wave phase velocity maps. Love waves at 40 s are dominantly sensitive to crustal structure, and there is a very close correspondence between observed phase velocities at this period and those predicted by CRUST 5.1. We find that the application of crustal corrections to long-period (167 s) Rayleigh waves significantly increases the variance in the phase velocity maps and strengthens the upper mantle velocity anomalies beneath stable continental regions. A simple calculation of crustal isostacy indicates significant lateral variations in upper mantle density. The model CRUST 5.1 provides a complete description of the physical properties of the Earth's crust at a scale of 5° × 5° and can be used for a wide range of seismological and nonseismological problems.

Sediment transport in the area of the Sopot pier

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Przyborska, Anna; Jakacki, Jaromir; Andrzejewski, Jan

2017-04-01

Coastal sediment transport is a natural process that appears when energy of waves is sufficient for moving solid particles from the bottom. Sediment transport rate depends on the median diameter of local sand and it is compatible with the direction of wave propagation. Also it is natural, that any protruded from the beach construction disturbs continuity of beach transport caused by waves. The Sopot pier has been built over 100 years ago and it is the longest wooden pier on the Baltic Sea coast, it is about half kilometre long. The pier is located at the end of the Monte Casino street and it is one of the biggest attractions of the city as well as in the country. In the past and now we have observed the disturbed sediment transport in the area of the Sopot pier. But during recent years, this process has gained greater momentum. The beach at the Sopot pier has been growing by several meters. All indicates that the cause of the observed phenomenon is the marina. The marina structure which is in some distance from the shore, has been acting as a powerful, emerged breakwater boundary. As a tool the sediment transport model was implemented for Sopot pier area. The implemented numerical forecasting sediment transport model in the area of the Sopot pier reflects well the deposit growth rate for the archived data from 2010 to 2015. On the basis of differences in bathymetry data provided by the Maritime office and the analysis the model results the average deposits in accumulation in the pear area was determined to be about 16,000 m3 / year for the assumed area of analysis, the model have shown similar result. The analysis suggests that strong winds generating significant waves as well as meaningful sediment transport dominate in the autumn and winter. You cannot, however, rule out strong waves in summer. Under moderate waves the sediment transport is insignificant. The most intense movement of the sediment is observed in the vicinity of the shoreline, it disappears with distance from the shoreline. Numerical sediment transport model DHI MIKE also shows that the Sopot marina generates a 'shadow' of waves. The shadow causes a disturbance in the continuity of natural sediment transport along the beach, the consequence of which is the creation of the sand shapes at the bottom in the form of convexity of coastline known as a spit. The model results also shows that 80% of the accumulated sand near the pier come from local beaches south-east of the pier. The remaining 20% was transported from the north-west. The direction of sediment transport corresponds to the directions of local waves

Modeling transport and deposition of the Mekong River sediment

USGS Publications Warehouse

Xue, Zuo; He, Ruoying; Liu, J. Paul; Warner, John C.

2012-01-01

A Coupled Wave–Ocean–SedimentTransport Model was used to hindcast coastal circulation and fine sedimenttransport on the Mekong shelf in southeastern Asian in 2005. Comparisons with limited observations showed that the model simulation captured the regional patterns and temporal variability of surface wave, sea level, and suspended sediment concentration reasonably well. Significant seasonality in sedimenttransport was revealed. In summer, a large amount of fluvial sediments was delivered and deposited near the MekongRiver mouth. In the following winter, strong ocean mixing, and coastal current lead to resuspension and southwestward dispersal of a small fraction of previously deposited sediments. Model sensitivity experiments (with reduced physics) were performed to investigate the impact of tides, waves, and remotely forced ambient currents on the transport and dispersal of the fluvial sediment. Strong wave mixing and downwelling-favorable coastal current associated with the more energetic northeast monsoon in the winter season are the main factors controlling the southwestward along-shelf transport.

Analysis of the Sediment Hydrograph of the alluvial deltas in the Apalachicola River, Florida

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Daranpob, A.; Hagen, S.; Passeri, D.; Smar, D. E.

2011-12-01

Channel and alluvial characteristics in lowlands are the products of boundary conditions and driving forces. The boundary conditions normally include materials and land cover types, such as soil type and vegetation cover. General driving forces include discharge rate, sediment loadings, tides and waves. Deltas built up of river-transported sediment occur in depositional zones of the river mouth in flat terrains and slow currents. Total sediment load depends on two major abilities of the river, the river shear stress and capacity. The shear stress determines transport of a given sediment grain size, normally expressed as tractive force. The river capacity determines the total load or quantity of total sediments transported across a section of the river, generally expressed as the sediment loading rate. The shear stress and sediment loading rate are relatively easy to measure in the headwater and transfer zones where streams form a v-shape valley and the river begins to form defined banks compared to the deposition zone where rivers broaden across lower elevation landscapes creating alluvial forms such as deltas. Determinations of deposition and re-suspension of sediment in fluvial systems are complicated due to exerting tidal, wind, and wave forces. Cyclic forces of tides and waves repeatedly change the sediment transport and deposition rate spatially and temporally in alluvial fans. However, the influence decreases with water depth. Understanding the transport, deposition, and re-suspension of sediments in the fluvial zone would provide a better understanding of the morphology of landscape in lowland estuaries such as the Apalachicola Bay and its estuary systems. The Apalachicola River system is located in the Florida Panhandle. Shelf sedimentation process is not a strong influence in this region because it is protected by barrier islands from direct ocean forces of the Gulf of Mexico. This research explores the characteristic of suspended sediment loadings in fluvial zones of the Apalachicola River and its distributaries through field investigation and laboratory analysis of a series of total suspended solid (TSS) samples. Time-series TSS samples are collected at the alluvial zone. TSS and particle-size distribution analyses are performed to determine the TSS hydrograph and particle-size distribution of suspended solids. Relationships between the TSS hydrograph, discharge hydrograph, and tidal data provide a better understanding of the deposition and re-suspension of the fluvial system in the region. Total suspended particle-size distribution data are used to determine the deposition rate or diminishing rate of alluvial landform in the estuarine system. This dataset and analysis provide excellent information for future modeling work and wetland morphologic studies in the Apalachicola River and similar systems.

Numerical modeling of the effects of Hurricane Sandy and potential future hurricanes on spatial patterns of salt marsh morphology in Jamaica Bay, New York City

USGS Publications Warehouse

Wang, Hongqing; Chen, Qin; Hu, Kelin; Snedden, Gregg A.; Hartig, Ellen K.; Couvillion, Brady R.; Johnson, Cody L.; Orton, Philip M.

2017-03-29

The salt marshes of Jamaica Bay, managed by the New York City Department of Parks & Recreation and the Gateway National Recreation Area of the National Park Service, serve as a recreational outlet for New York City residents, mitigate flooding, and provide habitat for critical wildlife species. Hurricanes and extra-tropical storms have been recognized as one of the critical drivers of coastal wetland morphology due to their effects on hydrodynamics and sediment transport, deposition, and erosion processes. However, the magnitude and mechanisms of hurricane effects on sediment dynamics and associated coastal wetland morphology in the northeastern United States are poorly understood. In this study, the depth-averaged version of the Delft3D modeling suite, integrated with field measurements, was utilized to examine the effects of Hurricane Sandy and future potential hurricanes on salt marsh morphology in Jamaica Bay, New York City. Hurricane Sandy-induced wind, waves, storm surge, water circulation, sediment transport, deposition, and erosion were simulated by using the modeling system in which vegetation effects on flow resistance, surge reduction, wave attenuation, and sedimentation were also incorporated. Observed marsh elevation change and accretion from a rod surface elevation table and feldspar marker horizons and cesium-137- and lead-210-derived long-term accretion rates were used to calibrate and validate the wind-waves-surge-sediment transport-morphology coupled model.The model results (storm surge, waves, and marsh deposition and erosion) agreed well with field measurements. The validated modeling system was then used to detect salt marsh morphological change due to Hurricane Sandy across the entire Jamaica Bay over the short-term (for example, 4 days and 1 year) and long-term (for example, 5 and 10 years). Because Hurricanes Sandy (2012) and Irene (2011) were two large and destructive tropical cyclones which hit the northeast coast, the validated coupled model was run to predict the effects of Sandy-like and Irene-like hurricanes with different storm tracks and wind intensities on wetland morphology in Jamaica Bay. Model results indicate that, in Jamaica Bay salt marshes, the morphological changes (greater than 5 millimeters [mm] determined by the long-term marsh accretion rate) caused by Hurricane Sandy were complex and spatially heterogeneous. Most of the erosion (5–40 mm) and deposition (5–30 mm) were mainly characterized by fine sand for channels and bay bottoms and by mud for marsh areas. Hurricane Sandy-generated deposition and erosion were generated locally. The storm-induced net sediment input through Rockaway Inlet was only about 1 percent of the total amount of the sediment reworked by the hurricane. Salt marshes inside the western part of the bay showed erosion overall while marshes inside the eastern part showed deposition from Hurricane Sandy. Model results indicated that most of the marshes could recover from Hurricane Sandy-induced erosion after 1 year and demonstrated continued marsh accretion after the hurricane over the course of long simulation periods although the effect (accretion) was diminished. Local waves and currents generated by Hurricane Sandy appeared to play a critical role in sediment transport and associated wetland morphological change in Jamaica Bay. Hypothetical hurricanes, depending on their track and intensity, cause variable responses in spatial patterns of sediment deposition and erosion compared to simulations without the hurricane. In general, hurricanes passing west of the Jamaica Bay estuary appear to be more destructive to the salt marshes than those passing the east. Consequently, marshes inside the western part of the bay were likely to be more vulnerable to hurricanes than marshes inside the eastern part of the bay. 

Sedimentation processes in a coral reef embayment: Hanalei Bay, Kauai

USGS Publications Warehouse

Storlazzi, C.D.; Field, M.E.; Bothner, Michael H.; Presto, M.K.; Draut, A.E.

2009-01-01

Oceanographic measurements and sediment samples were collected during the summer of 2006 as part of a multi-year study of coastal circulation and the fate of terrigenous sediment on coral reefs in Hanalei Bay, Kauai. The goal of this study was to better understand sediment dynamics in a coral reef-lined embayment where winds, ocean surface waves, and river floods are important processes. During a summer period that was marked by two wave events and one river flood, we documented significant differences in sediment trap collection rates and the composition, grain size, and magnitude of sediment transported in the bay. Sediment trap collection rates were well correlated with combined wave-current near-bed shear stresses during the non-flood periods but were not correlated during the flood. The flood's delivery of fine-grained sediment to the bay initially caused high turbidity and sediment collection rates off the river mouth but the plume dispersed relatively quickly. Over the next month, the flood deposit was reworked by mild waves and currents and the fine-grained terrestrial sediment was advected around the bay and collected in sediment traps away from the river mouth, long after the turbid surface plume was gone. The reworked flood deposits, due to their longer duration of influence and proximity to the seabed, appear to pose a greater long-term impact to benthic coral reef communities than the flood plumes themselves. The results presented here display how spatial and temporal differences in hydrodynamic processes, which result from variations in reef morphology and orientation, cause substantial variations in the deposition, residence time, resuspension, and advection of both reef-derived and fluvial sediment over relatively short spatial scales in a coral reef embayment.

Tidal and meteorological forcing of sediment transport in tributary mudflat channels.

PubMed

Ralston, David K; Stacey, Mark T

2007-06-01

Field observations of flow and sediment transport in a tributary channel through intertidal mudflats indicate that suspended sediment was closely linked to advection and dispersion of a tidal salinity front. During calm weather when tidal forcing was dominant, high concentrations of suspended sediment advected up the mudflat channel in the narrow region between salty water from San Francisco Bay and much fresher runoff from the small local watershed. Salinity and suspended sediment dispersed at similar rates through each tidal inundation, such that during receding ebbs the sediment pulse had spread spatially and maximum concentrations had decreased. Net sediment transport was moderately onshore during the calm weather, as asymmetries in stratification due to tidal straining of the salinity front enhanced deposition, particularly during weaker neap tidal forcing. Sediment transport by tidal forcing was periodically altered by winter storms. During storms, strong winds from the south generated wind waves and temporarily increased suspended sediment concentrations. Increased discharge down the tributary channels due to precipitation had more lasting impact on sediment transport, supplying both buoyancy and fine sediment to the system. Net sediment transport depended on the balance between calm weather tidal forcing and perturbations by episodic storms. Net transport in the tributary channel was generally off-shore during storms and during calm weather spring tides, and on-shore during calm weather neap tides.

Tidal and meteorological forcing of sediment transport in tributary mudflat channels

PubMed Central

Ralston, David K.; Stacey, Mark T.

2011-01-01

Field observations of flow and sediment transport in a tributary channel through intertidal mudflats indicate that suspended sediment was closely linked to advection and dispersion of a tidal salinity front. During calm weather when tidal forcing was dominant, high concentrations of suspended sediment advected up the mudflat channel in the narrow region between salty water from San Francisco Bay and much fresher runoff from the small local watershed. Salinity and suspended sediment dispersed at similar rates through each tidal inundation, such that during receding ebbs the sediment pulse had spread spatially and maximum concentrations had decreased. Net sediment transport was moderately onshore during the calm weather, as asymmetries in stratification due to tidal straining of the salinity front enhanced deposition, particularly during weaker neap tidal forcing. Sediment transport by tidal forcing was periodically altered by winter storms. During storms, strong winds from the south generated wind waves and temporarily increased suspended sediment concentrations. Increased discharge down the tributary channels due to precipitation had more lasting impact on sediment transport, supplying both buoyancy and fine sediment to the system. Net sediment transport depended on the balance between calm weather tidal forcing and perturbations by episodic storms. Net transport in the tributary channel was generally off-shore during storms and during calm weather spring tides, and on-shore during calm weather neap tides. PMID:21499572

Wave Energy Converter (WEC) Array Effects on Wave Current and Sediment Circulation: Monterey Bay CA.

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Roberts, Jesse D.; Jones, Craig; Magalen, Jason

2014-09-01

The goal s of this study were to develop tools to quantitatively characterize environments where wave energy converter ( WEC ) devices may be installed and to assess e ffects on hydrodynamics and lo cal sediment transport. A large hypothetical WEC array was investigated using wave, hydrodynamic, and sediment transport models and site - specific average and storm conditions as input. The results indicated that there were significant changes in sediment s izes adjacent to and in the lee of the WEC array due to reduced wave energy. The circulation in the lee of the array was also altered; moremore » intense onshore currents were generated in the lee of the WECs . In general, the storm case and the average case show ed the same qualitative patterns suggesting that these trends would be maintained throughout the year. The framework developed here can be used to design more efficient arrays while minimizing impacts on nearshore environmen ts.« less

Sediment resuspension in a shallow lake with muddy substrates: St Lucia, South Africa

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zikhali, Vulindlela; Tirok, Katrin; Stretch, Derek

2015-10-01

Wind-driven sediment resuspension affects the physical and biological environment of the water column in shallow estuarine lakes. This study investigated the relationship between wind-driven waves and suspended sediment concentration (SSC) using the 33 km2 South Lake basin of Lake St Lucia, South Africa as a case study. Five wave poles measuring significant wave height and turbidity were deployed over an aggregate period of twenty days at distributed locations where sediment substrate compositions varied from muddy to sandy and depths ranged from 0.7 m to 2.1 m. The resulting turbidity dynamics were used to test a simple depth-averaged model of suspended sediment concentrations. The model performed best in the muddy regions of the lake and was able to simulate the resuspension dynamics more accurately than the settling dynamics. Peak suspended sediment concentration levels were best captured for the deeper muddy locations. The model provides a means to make spatially explicit predictions of suspended sediment concentrations that can be used to understand the forcing mechanisms for primary producer growth and distribution or to improve sediment budget calculations.

Capabilities of the Large-Scale Sediment Transport Facility

DTIC Science & Technology

2016-04-01

experiments in wave /current environments. INTRODUCTION: The LSTF (Figure 1) is a large-scale laboratory facility capable of simulating conditions...comparable to low- wave energy coasts. The facility was constructed to address deficiencies in existing methods for calculating longshore sediment...transport. The LSTF consists of a 30 m wide, 50 m long, 1.4 m deep basin. Waves are generated by four digitally controlled wave makers capable of producing

Predicting S-wave velocities for unconsolidated sediments at low effective pressure

USGS Publications Warehouse

Lee, Myung W.

2010-01-01

Accurate S-wave velocities for shallow sediments are important in performing a reliable elastic inversion for gas hydrate-bearing sediments and in evaluating velocity models for predicting S-wave velocities, but few S-wave velocities are measured at low effective pressure. Predicting S-wave velocities by using conventional methods based on the Biot-Gassmann theory appears to be inaccurate for laboratory-measured velocities at effective pressures less than about 4-5 megapascals (MPa). Measured laboratory and well log velocities show two distinct trends for S-wave velocities with respect to P-wave velocity: one for the S-wave velocity less than about 0.6 kilometer per second (km/s) which approximately corresponds to effective pressure of about 4-5 MPa, and the other for S-wave velocities greater than 0.6 km/s. To accurately predict S-wave velocities at low effective pressure less than about 4-5 MPa, a pressure-dependent parameter that relates the consolidation parameter to shear modulus of the sediments at low effective pressure is proposed. The proposed method in predicting S-wave velocity at low effective pressure worked well for velocities of water-saturated sands measured in the laboratory. However, this method underestimates the well-log S-wave velocities measured in the Gulf of Mexico, whereas the conventional method performs well for the well log velocities. The P-wave velocity dispersion due to fluid in the pore spaces, which is more pronounced at high frequency with low effective pressures less than about 4 MPa, is probably a cause for this discrepancy.

Analysis of the impacts of Wave Energy Converter arrays on the nearshore wave climate in the Pacific Northwest

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

O'Dea, A.; Haller, M. C.

2013-12-01

As concerns over the use of fossil fuels increase, more and more effort is being put into the search for renewable and reliable sources of energy. Developments in ocean technologies have made the extraction of wave energy a promising alternative. Commercial exploitation of wave energy would require the deployment of arrays of Wave Energy Converters (WECs) that include several to hundreds of individual devices. Interactions between WECs and ocean waves result in both near-field and far-field changes in the incident wave field, including a significant decrease in wave height and a redirection of waves in the lee of the array, referred to as the wave shadow. Nearshore wave height and direction are directly related to the wave radiation stresses that drive longshore currents, rip currents and nearshore sediment transport, which suggests that significant far-field changes in the wave field due to WEC arrays could have an impact on littoral processes. The goal of this study is to investigate the changes in nearshore wave conditions and radiation stress forcing as a result of an offshore array of point-absorber type WECs using a nested SWAN model, and to determine how array size, configuration, spacing and distance from shore influence these changes. The two sites of interest are the Northwest National Marine Renewable Energy Center (NNMREC) test sites off the coast of Newport Oregon, the North Energy Test Site (NETS) and the South Energy Test Site (SETS). NETS and SETS are permitted wave energy test sites located approximately 4 km and 10 km offshore, respectively. Twenty array configurations are simulated, including 5, 10, 25, 50 and 100 devices in two and three staggered rows in both closely spaced (three times the WEC diameter) and widely spaced (ten times the WEC diameter) arrays. Daily offshore wave spectra are obtained from a regional WAVEWATCH III hindcast for 2011, which are then propagated across the continental shelf using SWAN. Arrays are represented in SWAN through the external modification of the wave spectra at the device locations, based on a new experimentally determined Power Transfer Function established in an earlier WEC-array laboratory study. Changes in nearshore forcing conditions for each array size and configuration are compared in order to determine the scale of the far-field effects of WEC arrays and which array sizes and configurations could have the most significant impacts on coastal processes.

Development of a wave-induced forcing threshold for nearshore impact of Wave Energy Converter arrays

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

O'Dea, A.; Haller, M. C.; Ozkan-Haller, H. T.

2016-02-01

Wave-induced forcing is a function of spatial gradients in the wave radiation stresses and is the main driver of alongshore currents, rip currents, and nearshore sediment transport. The installation of nearshore Wave Energy Converter (WEC) arrays may cause significant changes in the surf zone radiation stresses and could therefore impact nearshore littoral processes. In the first part of this study, a new threshold for nearshore hydrodynamic impact due to the presence of WEC devices is established based on changes in the alongshore radiation stress gradients shoreward of WEC arrays. The threshold is defined based on the relationship between nearshore radiation stresses and alongshore currents as observed in field data. Next, we perform a parametric study of the nearshore impact of WEC arrays using the SWAN wave model. Trials are conducted on an idealized, alongshore-uniform beach with a range of WEC array configurations, locations, and incident wave conditions, and conditions that generate radiation stress gradients above the impact threshold are identified. Finally, the same methodology is applied to two wave energy test sites off the coast of Newport, OR with more complicated bathymetries. Although the trends at the field sites are similar to those seen in the parametric study, the location and extent of the changes in the alongshore radiation stress gradients appear to be heavily influenced by the local bathymetry.

Effect of transient wave forcing on the behavior of arsenic in a sandy nearshore aquifer

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Rakhimbekova, S.; O'Carroll, D. M.; Robinson, C. E.

2016-12-01

Waves cause large quantities of coastal water to recirculate across the groundwater-coastal water interface in addition to inducing complex groundwater flows in the nearshore aquifer. Due to the distinct chemical composition of recirculating coastal water compared with discharging terrestrial groundwater, wave-induced recirculations and flows can alter geochemical gradients in the nearshore aquifer which may subsequently affect the mobilization and transport of reactive pollutants (e.g., arsenic). The impact of seasonal geochemical and hydrological variability on the occurrence and mobility of arsenic near the groundwater-surface water interface has been shown previously in riverine settings, however, the impact of high frequency geochemical variations (e.g., varying wave conditions) on arsenic mobility in groundwater-surface water environments is unclear. The objective of the study was to assess the impact of intensified wave conditions on the behavior of arsenic in a nearshore aquifer to determine the factors regulating its mobility and transport to receiving coastal waters. Field investigations were conducted at a permeable beach on the Great Lakes during a period of intensified wave conditions (wave event). High spatial resolution pore water sampling captured the geochemical conditions in the nearshore aquifer prior to the wave event, immediately after the wave event and over a recovery period of 3 weeks following the wave event. Shifts in pH and redox potential (ORP) gradients in response to varying wave conditions caused shifts in the iron and arsenic distributions in the aquifer. Sediment analysis was combined with the pore water distributions to assess the release of sediment-bound arsenic in response to the varying wave conditions. Insight into the effect of transient forcing on arsenic mobility and transport in groundwater-surface water environments is important for evaluating the potential risks associated with this toxic metalloid. The findings of this study also have significant implications for the fate of other reactive constituents (heavy metals, nutrients) discharging through nearshore aquifers to coastal waters.

Elastic-wave propagation and site amplification in the Salt Lake Valley, Utah, from simulated normal faulting earthquakes

USGS Publications Warehouse

Benz, H.M.; Smith, R.B.

1988-01-01

The two-dimensional seismic response of the Salt Lake valley to near- and far-field earthquakes has been investigated from simulations of vertically incident plane waves and from normal-faulting earthquakes generated on the basin-bounding Wasatch fault. The plane-wave simulations were compared with observed site amplifications in the Salt Lake valley, based on seismic recordings from nuclear explosions in southern Nevada, that show 10 times greater amplification with the basin than measured values on hard-rock sites. Synthetic seismograms suggest that in the frequency band 0.3 to 1.5 Hz at least one-half the site amplitication can be attributed to the impedance contrast between the basin sediments and higher velocity basement rocks. -from Authors

Wave-current induced erosion of cohesive riverbanks in northern Manitoba, Canada

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kimiaghalam, N.; Clark, S.; Ahmari, H.; Hunt, J.

2015-03-01

The field of cohesive soil erosion is still not fully understood, in large part due to the many soil parameters that affect cohesive soil erodibility. This study is focused on two channels, 2-Mile and 8-Mile channels in northern Manitoba, Canada, that were built to connect Lake Winnipeg with Playgreen Lake and Playgreen Lake with Kiskikittogisu Lake, respectively. The banks of the channels consist of clay rich soils and alluvial deposits of layered clay, silts and sands. The study of erosion at the sites is further complicated because the flow-induced erosion is combined with the effects of significant wave action due to the large fetch length on the adjacent lakes, particularly Lake Winnipeg that is the seventh largest lake in North America. The study included three main components: field measurements, laboratory experiments and numerical modelling. Field measurements consisted of soil sampling from the banks and bed of the channels, current measurements and water sampling. Grab soil samples were used to measure the essential physical and electrochemical properties of the riverbanks, and standard ASTM Shelby tube samples were used to estimate the critical shear stress and erodibility of the soil samples using an erosion measurement device (EMD). Water samples were taken to estimate the sediment concentration profile and also to monitor changes in sediment concentration along the channels over time. An Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) was used to collect bathymetry and current data, and two water level gauges have been installed to record water levels at the entrance and outlet of the channels. The MIKE 21 NSW model was used to simulate waves using historical winds and measured bathymetry of the channels and lakes. Finally, results from the wave numerical model, laboratory tests and current measurement were used to estimate the effect of each component on erodibility of the cohesive banks.

From DNS to RANS: A Multi-model workflow to understand the Influence of Hurricanes on Generating Turbidity Currents in the Gulf of Mexico

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Syvitski, J. P.; Arango, H.; Harris, C. K.; Meiburg, E. H.; Jenkins, C. J.; Auad, G.; Hutton, E.; Kniskern, T. A.; Radhakrishnan, S.

2016-12-01

A loosely coupled numerical workflow is developed to address land-sea pathways for sediment routing from terrestrial and coastal sources, across the continental shelf and ultimately down the continental slope canyon system of the northern Gulf of Mexico (GOM). Model simulations represent a range of environmental conditions that might lead to the generation of turbidity-currents. The workflow comprises: 1) A simulator for the water and sediment discharged from rivers into the GOM with WMBsedv2 with calibration using USGS and USACE gauged river data; 2) Domain grids and bathymetry (ETOPO2) for the ocean models and realistic seabed sediment texture grids (dbSEABED) for the sediment transport models; 3) A spectral wave action simulator (10 km resolution) (WaveWatch III) driven by GFDL - GFS winds; 4) A simulator for ocean dynamics (ROMS) forced with ECMWF ERA winds; 5) A simulator for seafloor resuspension and transport (CSTMS); 6) Simulators (HurriSlip) of seafloor failure and flow ignition locations for boundary input to a turbidity current model; and 7) A RANS turbidity current model (TURBINS) to route sediment flows down GOM canyons, providing estimates of bottom shear stresses. TURBINS was developed first as a DNS model and then converted to an LES model wherein a dynamic turbulence closure scheme was employed. Like most DNS to LES model comparisons (these being done by the UCSB team), turbulence scaling allowed for higher Re applications but were found still not capable of simulating field scale (GOM continental canyons) environments. The LES model was next converted to a non-hydrostatic RANS model capable of field scale applications but only with a daisy-chain approach to multiple model runs along the simulated canyon floor. These model adaptations allowed the workflow to be tested for the year 1-Oct-2007 to 30-Sep-2008 that included two domain Hurricanes (Ike and Gustav). The RANS-TURBINS employed further boundary simplifications on both sediment erosion and deposition in line with the ocean model ROMS-CSTMS.

Understanding processes controlling sediment transports at the mouth of a highly energetic inlet system (San Francisco Bay, CA)

USGS Publications Warehouse

Elias, Edwin P.L.; Hansen, Jeff E.; Barnard, P.L.; Jaffee, B.E.; Schoellhamer, D.H.

2013-01-01

San Francisco Bay is one of the largest estuaries along the U.S. West Coast and is linked to the Pacific Ocean through the Golden Gate, a 100 m deep bedrock inlet. A coupled wave, flow and sediment transport model is used to quantify the sediment linkages between San Francisco Bay, the Golden Gate, and the adjacent open coast. Flow and sediment transport processes are investigated using an ensemble average of 24 climatologically derived wave cases and a 24.8 h representative tidal cycle. The model simulations show that within the inlet, flow and sediment transport is tidally dominated and driven by asymmetry of the ebb and flood tides. Peak ebb velocities exceed the peak flood velocities in the narrow Golden Gate channel as a result of flow convergence and acceleration. Persistent flow and sediment gyres at the headland tips are formed that limit sediment transfer from the ebb-tidal delta to the inlet and into the bay. The residual transport pattern in the inlet is dominated by a lateral segregation with a large ebb-dominant sediment transport (and flow) prevailing along the deeper north side of the Golden Gate channel, and smaller flood dominant transports along the shallow southern margin. The seaward edge of the ebb-tidal delta largely corresponds to the seaward extent of strong tidal flows. On the ebb-tidal delta, both waves and tidal forcing govern flow and sediment transport. Wave focusing by the ebb-tidal delta leads to strong patterns of sediment convergence and divergence along the adjacent Ocean Beach.

Turbidity Current Head Mixing

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hernandez, David; Sanchez, Miguel Angel; Medina, Pablo

2010-05-01

A laboratory experimental set - up for studying the behaviour of sediment in presence of a turbulent field with zero mean flow is compared with the behaviour of turbidity currents [1] . Particular interest is shown on the initiation of sediment motion and in the sediment lift - off. The behaviour of the turbidity current in a flat ground is compared with the zero mean flow oscilating grid generated turbulence as when wave flow lifts off suspended sediments [2,3]. Some examples of the results obtained with this set-up relating the height of the head of the turbidity current to the equilibrium level of stirred lutoclines are shown. A turbulent velocity u' lower than that estimated by the Shield diagram is required to start sediment motion. The minimum u' required to start sediment lift - off, is a function of sediment size, cohesivity and resting time. The lutocline height depends on u', and the vorticity at the lutocline seems constant for a fixed sediment size [1,3]. Combining grid stirring and turbidty current head shapes analyzed by means of advanced image analysis, sediment vertical fluxes and settling speeds can be measured [4,5]. [1] D. Hernandez Turbulent structure of turbidity currents and sediment transport Ms Thesis ETSECCPB, UPC. Barcelona 2009. [2] A. Sánchez-Arcilla; A. Rodríguez; J.C. Santás; J.M. Redondo; V. Gracia; R. K'Osyan; S. Kuznetsov; C. Mösso. Delta'96 Surf-zone and nearshore measurements at the Ebro Delta. A: International Conference on Coastal Research through large Scale Experiments (Coastal Dynamics '97). University of Plymouth, 1997, p. 186-187. [3] P. Medina, M. A. Sánchez and J. M. Redondo. Grid stirred turbulence: applications to the initiation of sediment motion and lift-off studies Physics and Chemistry of the Earth, Part B: Hydrology, Oceans and Atmosphere. 26, Issue 4, 2001, Pages 299-304 [4] M.O. Bezerra, M. Diez, C. Medeiros, A. Rodriguez, E. Bahia., A. Sanchez-Arcilla and J.M. Redondo. Study on the influence of waves on coastal diffusion using image analysis. Applied Scientific Research 59,.191-204. 1998. [5] J.M. Redondo. Turbulent mixing in the Atmosphere and Ocean. Fluid Physics. 584-597. World Scientific. New York. 1994

Physical response of a back-barrier estuary to a post-tropical cyclone

USGS Publications Warehouse

Beudin, Alexis; Ganju, Neil Kamal; Defne, Zafer; Aretxabaleta, Alfredo

2017-01-01

This paper presents a modeling investigation of the hydrodynamic and sediment transport response of Chincoteague Bay (VA/MD, USA) to Hurricane Sandy using the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment-Transport (COAWST) modeling system. Several simulation scenarios with different combinations of remote and local forces were conducted to identify the dominant physical processes. While 80% of the water level increase in the bay was due to coastal sea level at the peak of the storm, a rich spatial and temporal variability in water surface slope was induced by local winds and waves. Local wind increased vertical mixing, horizontal exchanges, and flushing through the inlets. Remote waves (swell) enhanced southward flow through wave setup gradients between the inlets, and increased locally generated wave heights. Locally generated waves had a negligible effect on water level but reduced the residual flow up to 70% due to enhanced apparent roughness and breaking-induced forces. Locally generated waves dominated bed shear stress and sediment resuspension in the bay. Sediment transport patterns mirrored the interior coastline shape and generated deposition on inundated areas. The bay served as a source of fine sediment to the inner shelf, and the ocean-facing barrier island accumulated sand from landward-directed overwash. Despite the intensity of the storm forcing, the bathymetric changes in the bay were on the order of centimeters. This work demonstrates the spectrum of responses to storm forcing, and highlights the importance of local and remote processes on back-barrier estuarine function.

Near-Bottom Turbulence and Sediment Resuspension Induced by Nonlinear Internal Waves

DTIC Science & Technology

2012-09-30

boundary layer (BBL) turbulence and particulate resuspension leading to benthic nepheloid layer ( BNL ) formation. OBJECTIVES The specific objectives...capturing of nearbed particles by the BBL-turbulence and their transport/deposition into BNLs . • Analyze field observations from the New Jersey shelf to...generated resuspended particle distributions under NLIWs, a reliable proxy of BNLs , can be used to quantify the transmission or backscatter of optical

Near-Bottom Turbulence and Sediment Resuspension Induced by Nonlinear Internal Waves

DTIC Science & Technology

2014-09-30

boundary layer (BBL) turbulence and particulate resuspension leading to benthic nepheloid layer ( BNL ) formation. OBJECTIVES The specific objectives...identify mechanisms for the capturing of near-bed particles by the BBL-turbulence and their transport/deposition into BNLs . • Analyze field...distributions under NLIWs, a reliable proxy of BNLs , can be used to quantify the transmission or backscatter of optical/acoustic signals of importance to

Formation Mechanisms for Spur and Groove Features on Fringing Reefs

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bramante, J. F.; Ashton, A. D.; Perron, J. T.

2016-12-01

Spur and groove systems (SAGs) are ubiquitous morphological features found on fore-reef slopes globally. SAGs consist of parallel, roughly shore-normal ridges of actively growing coral and coralline algae (spurs) separated by offshore-sloping depressions typically carpeted by a veneer of sediment (grooves). Although anecdotal observations and recent statistical analyses have reported correlations between wave exposure and the distribution of SAGs on fore-reef slopes, the physical mechanisms driving SAG formation remain poorly understood. For example, there remains significant debate regarding the importance of coral growth versus bed erosion for SAG formation. Here we investigate a hypothesis that SAG formation is controlled by feedbacks between sediment production and diffusion and coral growth. Using linear stability analysis, we find that sediment production, coral growth, and the feedbacks between them are unable to produce stable periodic structures without a sediment sink. However, if incipient grooves act as conduits for sediment transport offshore, a positive feedback can develop as the groove bed erodes through wave-driven abrasion during offshore transport. Eventually a negative feedback slows groove deepening when the groove bed is armored by sediment, and the groove bed relaxes to a sediment-veneered equilibrium profile analogous to sediment-rich shorefaces. To test this hypothesis, we apply a numerical model that incorporates coral growth and sediment production, sediment diffusion, non-linear wave-driven abrasion, and sediment advection offshore. This model produces the periodic, linear features characteristic of SAG morphology. The relative magnitude of growth, production, diffusion, abrasion, and advection rates affect periodic spacing or wavelength of the modeled SAGs. Finally, we evaluate the ability of the model to replicate geographical variability in SAG characteristics using previously published datasets and reanalysis wave data.

Maps Showing Composition of Surficial Sediments on the Insular Shelf of Southwestern Puerto Rico

USGS Publications Warehouse

Shideler, Gerald L.

1980-01-01

The limited availability of onshore sand deposits for use in construction appears to be a future major problem in Puerto Rico (U.S. Bureau of Mines, 1972; Committee on Puerto Rico and the Sea, 1974). Consequently, the mining of offshore sand deposits as supplemental sources of construction aggregate may becom e necessary. For this reason, the U.S. Geological Survey and the Department of Natural Resources of the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico have conducted investigations of potential offshore sand deposits on the Puerto Rico insular shelf. This report provides information on the composition of surficial sediments on the southwestern Puerto Rico shelf (fig. 1), an area that may be one of the more favorable potential sites for offshore sand resources. Water depths over most of the study area are less than 22 meters (m). The sea floor is composed of live and dead patch and fringing reefs, areas of rock exposures, and sedim ent-covered areas. The adjacent coastline includes prominent embaym ents and a conspicuous rock promontory (Cabo Rojo) connected by a tombolo to the mainland of Puerto Rico. The study area is in the belt of northeast trade winds. Waves approach the coast predominantly from the southeast, resulting in a predominantly westward littoral drift along the south coast (Grove and Trumbull, 1978). Local sand movement on the southern shelf is shown by an active sand wave field south of Bah1a Sucia in which the sand wave crests have migrated toward the southwest (Grove and Trumbull, 1978). The presence of the sand wave field suggests that large volumes of sand having potential for mining are locally present in the study area.

Continental Affinities of the Alpha Ridge

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Jackson, H. Ruth; Li, Qingmou; Shimeld, John; Chian, Deping

2017-04-01

Identifying the crustal attributes of the Alpha Ridge (AR) part of the High Arctic Large Igneous Province and tracing the spreading centre across the Amerasia Basin plays a key role in understanding the opening history of the Arctic Ocean. In this approach, we report the evidence for a continental influence on the development of the AR and reduced ocean crust in the Amerasia Basin. These points are inferred from a documented continental sedimentation source in the Amerasia Basin and calculated diagnostic compressional and shear refraction waves, and from the tracing of the distinct spreading centre using the potential field data. (1) The circum-Arctic geology of the small polar ocean provides compelling evidence of a long-lived continental landmass north of the Sverdrup Basin in the Canadian Arctic Islands and north of the Barents Sea continental margin. Based on sediment distribution patterns in the Sverdrup Basin a continental source is required from the Triassic to mid Jurassic. In addition, an extensive continental sediment source to the north of the Barents Sea is required until the Barremian. (2) Offshore data suggest a portion of continental crust in the Alpha and Mendeleev ridges including measured shear wave velocities, similarity of compressional wave velocities with large igneous province with continental fragments and magnetic patterns. Ocean bottom seismometers recorded shear waves velocities that are sensitive to the quartz content of rocks across the Chukchi Borderland and the Mendeleev Ridge that are diagnostic of both an upper and lower continental crust. On the Nautilus Spur of the Alpha Ridge expendable sonobuoys recorded clear converted shear waves also consistent with continental crust. The magnetic patterns (amplitude, frequency, and textures) on the Northwind Ridge and the Nautilus Spur also have similarities. In fact only limited portions of the deepest water portions of the Canada Basin and the Makarov Basin have typical oceanic layer 2 and 3 crustal velocities and lineated magnetic anomalies. (3) The gravity and magnetic anomalies associated with the spreading centre in the Canada Basin unveiled by multifractal singularity analysis of the potential field data can now be traced as far as the Lomonosov Ridge. In addition, linear magnetic features cutting across the spreading centres are identified as transform faults. The combination of the detected continental attributes of AR, the quantification of transform faults, and the outlined reduced extent of oceanic crust in the Amerasia Basin provide new insights into the opening history of the basin.

Lidar observations of wind- and wave-driven morphological evolution of coastal foredunes

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Spore, N.; Brodie, K. L.; Kershner, C. M.

2016-02-01

Coastal foredunes are continually evolving geomorphic features that are slowly built up by wind-blown sand and rapidly eroded during storms by large waves and swash. Landward aeolian transport removes sediment from the active beach and surf-zone, trapping it in the dune, where as coastal erosion both removes sediment from the dune and can decrease the overall fetch and sediment supply available to the dune. Understanding how wave and wind-driven process interact with each other and the dune-beach system itself is a critical component of improving predictions of coastal evolution. To investigate these processes, two 50 m alongshore by 25 m cross-shore patches of dune along an open coast beach fronting the Atlantic Ocean in Duck, NC were scanned with a high resolution terrestrial lidar scanner ( 5000 points per m^2) every three weeks over the last year to observe detailed morphological evolution of the dune and upper beach. Sequential scans were co-registered to each other using fixed objects in the field of view, significantly increasing precision and accuracy of the observations. The north study site featured a 7.5 m tall scarped foredune system, where as the southern study site featured a 6 m tall, hummocky, prograding foredune. Initial analyses show large accretion events on the southern prograding site. For example, during one three week period in February, portions of the site accreted over 40 cm. In contrast, during the same three week period at the northern site (less than 1 km away), response was alongshore variable with erosion and accretion of roughly 10 cm on the foredune face. Further analysis will focus on separating wind vs. wave driven evolution of these sites. Funded by the USACE Coastal Inlets Research Program.

Modeling waves and circulation in Lake Pontchartrain, Louisiana

USGS Publications Warehouse

Signell, Richard P.; List, Jeffrey H.

1997-01-01

The U.S. Geological Survey is conducting a study of storm-driven sediment resuspension and transport in Lake Pontchartrain, Louisiana. Two critical processes related to sediment transport in the lake are (1) the resuspension of sediments due to wind-generated storm waves and (2) the movement of resuspended material by lake currents during storm wind events. The potential for sediment resuspension is being studied with the wave prediction model which simulates local generation of waves by wind and shallow-water effects on waves (refraction, shoaling, bottom friction, and breaking). Long-term wind measurements are then used to determine the regional "climate" of bottom orbital velocity (showing the spatial and temporal variability of wave-induced currents at the bottom). The circulation of the lake is being studied with a three-dimensional hydrodynamic model. Results of the modeling effort indicate that remote forcing due to water levels in Mississippi Sound dominate the circulation near the passes in the eastern end of the lake, while local wind forcing dominates water movement in the western end. During typical storms with winds from the north-northeast or the south-southeast, currents along the south coast near New Orleans generally transport material westward, while material in the central region moves against the wind. When periods of sustained winds are followed by a drop in coastal sea level, a large amount of suspended sediment can be flushed from the lake.

Offset-vertical seismic profiling for marine gas hydrate exploration: Is it a suitable technique? First results from ODP Leg 164

USGS Publications Warehouse

Pecher, I.A.; Holbrook, W.S.; Stephen, R.A.; Hoskins, H.; Lizarralde, D.; Hutchinson, D.R.; Wood, W.T.

1997-01-01

Walkaway vertical seismic profiles were acquired during Ocean Drilling Project (ODP) Leg 164 at the Blake Ridge to investigate seismic properties of hydrate-bearing sediments and the zone of free gas beneath them. An evaluation of compressional (P-) wave arrivals Site 994 indicates P-wave anisotrophy in the sediment column. We identified several shear (S-) wave arrivals in the horizontal components of the geophone array in the borehole and in data recorded with an ocean bottom seismometer deployed at the seafloor. S-waves were converted from P-waves at several depth levels in the sediment column. One of the most prominent conversion points appears to be the bottom simulating reflector (BSR). It is likely that other conversion points are located in the zone of low P-wave reflectivity above the BSR. Modeling suggests that a change of the shear modulus is sufficient to cause significant shear conversion without a significant normal-incidence P-wave reflection.

Observations of wave-induced pore pressure gradients and bed level response on a surf zone sandbar

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Anderson, Dylan; Cox, Dan; Mieras, Ryan; Puleo, Jack A.; Hsu, Tian-Jian

2017-06-01

Horizontal and vertical pressure gradients may be important physical mechanisms contributing to onshore sediment transport beneath steep, near-breaking waves in the surf zone. A barred beach was constructed in a large-scale laboratory wave flume with a fixed profile containing a mobile sediment layer on the crest of the sandbar. Horizontal and vertical pore pressure gradients were obtained by finite differences of measurements from an array of pressure transducers buried within the upper several centimeters of the bed. Colocated observations of erosion depth were made during asymmetric wave trials with wave heights between 0.10 and 0.98 m, consistently resulting in onshore sheet flow sediment transport. The pore pressure gradient vector within the bed exhibited temporal rotations during each wave cycle, directed predominantly upward under the trough and then rapidly rotating onshore and downward as the wavefront passed. The magnitude of the pore pressure gradient during each phase of rotation was correlated with local wave steepness and relative depth. Momentary bed failures as deep as 20 grain diameters were coincident with sharp increases in the onshore-directed pore pressure gradients, but occurred at horizontal pressure gradients less than theoretical critical values for initiation of the motion for compact beds. An expression combining the effects of both horizontal and vertical pore pressure gradients with bed shear stress and soil stability is used to determine that failure of the bed is initiated at nonnegligible values of both forces.