Nonlinear interaction and wave breaking with a submerged porous structure

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hsieh, Chih-Min; Sau, Amalendu; Hwang, Robert R.; Yang, W. C.

2016-12-01

Numerical simulations are performed to investigate interactive velocity, streamline, turbulent kinetic energy, and vorticity perturbations in the near-field of a submerged offshore porous triangular structure, as Stokes waves of different heights pass through. The wave-structure interaction and free-surface breaking for the investigated flow situations are established based on solutions of 2D Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equations in a Cartesian grid in combination with K-ɛ turbulent closure and the volume of fluid methodology. The accuracy and stability of the adopted model are ascertained by extensive comparisons of computed data with the existing experimental and theoretical findings and through efficient predictions of the internal physical kinetics. Simulations unfold "clockwise" and "anticlockwise" rotation of fluid below the trough and the crest of the viscous waves, and the penetrated wave energy creates systematic flow perturbation in the porous body. The interfacial growths of the turbulent kinetic energy and the vorticity appear phenomenal, around the apex of the immersed structure, and enhanced significantly following wave breaking. Different values of porosity parameter and two non-porous cases have been examined in combination with varied incident wave height to reveal/analyze the nonlinear flow behavior in regard to local spectral amplification and phase-plane signatures. The evolution of leading harmonics of the undulating free-surface and the vertical velocity exhibits dominating roles of the first and the second modes in inducing the nonlinearity in the post-breaking near-field that penetrates well below the surface layer. The study further suggests the existence of a critical porosity that can substantially enhance the wave-shoaling and interface breaking.

Investigating the impact of surface wave breaking on modeling the trajectories of drifters in the northern Adriatic Sea during a wind-storm event

USGS Publications Warehouse

Carniel, S.; Warner, J.C.; Chiggiato, J.; Sclavo, M.

2009-01-01

An accurate numerical prediction of the oceanic upper layer velocity is a demanding requirement for many applications at sea and is a function of several near-surface processes that need to be incorporated in a numerical model. Among them, we assess the effects of vertical resolution, different vertical mixing parameterization (the so-called Generic Length Scale -GLS- set of k-??, k-??, gen, and the Mellor-Yamada), and surface roughness values on turbulent kinetic energy (k) injection from breaking waves. First, we modified the GLS turbulence closure formulation in the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) to incorporate the surface flux of turbulent kinetic energy due to wave breaking. Then, we applied the model to idealized test cases, exploring the sensitivity to the above mentioned factors. Last, the model was applied to a realistic situation in the Adriatic Sea driven by numerical meteorological forcings and river discharges. In this case, numerical drifters were released during an intense episode of Bora winds that occurred in mid-February 2003, and their trajectories compared to the displacement of satellite-tracked drifters deployed during the ADRIA02-03 sea-truth campaign. Results indicted that the inclusion of the wave breaking process helps improve the accuracy of the numerical simulations, subject to an increase in the typical value of the surface roughness z0. Specifically, the best performance was obtained using ??CH = 56,000 in the Charnok formula, the wave breaking parameterization activated, k-?? as the turbulence closure model. With these options, the relative error with respect to the average distance of the drifter was about 25% (5.5 km/day). The most sensitive factors in the model were found to be the value of ??CH enhanced with respect to a standard value, followed by the adoption of wave breaking parameterization and the particular turbulence closure model selected. ?? 2009 Elsevier Ltd.

Langmuir circulation inhibits near-surface water turbulence

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Schultz, Colin

2012-07-01

In the surface ocean, breaking waves are a major source of air bubbles and turbulent kinetic energy. During the presence of a consistent surface wind, these wave-generated bubbles, along with other surface material like seaweed or foam, can be drawn into long rows along the surface. Driving this organization is Langmuir circulation, a phenomenon in which the wind and waves cause surface waters to rotate helically, moving like a wire wrapped around a pole in the windward direction. These spiral currents oscillate between clockwise and counterclockwise rotations, such that in some places the surface waters are pushed together and in others they are pulled apart. Researchers have previously found that at sites of convergence the bubbles produced by breaking waves are pushed to depths of 15 meters or more, with important implications for air-sea gas mixing and other processes.

Modeling Water Waves with Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics

DTIC Science & Technology

2013-09-30

SPH Model for Water Waves and Other Free Surface Flows ...Lagrangian nature of SPH allows the modeling of wave breaking, surf zones, ship waves, and wave-structure interaction, where the free surface becomes...proving to be a competent modeling scheme for free surface flows in three dimensions including the complex flows of the surf zone. As the GPU

Wind growth and wave breaking in higher-order spectral phase resolved wave models

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Leighton, R.; Walker, D. T.

2016-02-01

Wind growth and wave breaking are a integral parts of the wave evolution. Higher-OrderSpectral models (HoS) describing the non-linear evolution require empirical models for these effects. In particular, the assimilation of phase-resolved remotesensing data will require the prediction and modeling of wave breaking events.The HoS formulation used in this effort is based on fully nonlinear model of O. Nwogu (2009). The model for wave growth due to wind is based on the early normal and tangential stress model of Munk (1947). The model for wave breaking contains two parts. The first part initiates the breaking events based on the local wave geometry and the second part is a model for the pressure field, which acting against the surface normal velocity extracts energy from the wave. The models are tuned to balance the wind energy input with the breaking wave losses and to be similarfield observations of breaking wave coverage. The initial wave field, based on a Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum for 10 meter wind speed of 5-15 m/s, defined over a region of up to approximate 2.5 km on a side with the simulation running for several hundreds of peak wave periods. Results will be presented describing the evolution of the wave field.Sponsored by Office of Naval Research, Code 322

Remote Sensing Characterization of Two-dimensional Wave Forcing in the Surf Zone

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Carini, R. J.; Chickadel, C. C.; Jessup, A. T.

2016-02-01

In the surf zone, breaking waves drive longshore currents, transport sediment, shape bathymetry, and enhance air-sea gas and particle exchange. Furthermore, wave group forcing influences the generation and duration of rip currents. Wave breaking exhibits large gradients in space and time, making it challenging to measure in situ. Remote sensing technologies, specifically thermal infrared (IR) imagery, can provide detailed spatial and temporal measurements of wave breaking at the water surface. We construct two-dimensional maps of active wave breaking from IR imagery collected during the Surf Zone Optics Experiment in September 2010 at the US Army Corps of Engineers' Field Research Facility in Duck, NC. For each breaker identified in the camera's field of view, the crest-perpendicular length of the aerated breaking region (roller length) and wave direction are estimated and used to compute the wave energy dissipation rate. The resultant dissipation rate maps are analyzed over different time scales: peak wave period, infragravity wave period, and tidal wave period. For each time scale, spatial maps of wave breaking are used to characterize wave forcing in the surf zone for a variety of wave conditions. The following phenomena are examined: (1) wave dissipation rates over the bar (location of most intense breaking) have increased variance in infragravity wave frequencies, which are different from the peak frequency of the incoming wave field and different from the wave forcing variability at the shoreline, and (2) wave forcing has a wider spatial distribution during low tide than during high tide due to depth-limited breaking over the barred bathymetry. Future work will investigate the response of the variability in wave setup, longshore currents and rip currents, to the variability in wave forcing in the surf zone.

Sedimentary structures formed under water surface waves: examples from a sediment-laden flash flood observed by remote camer

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Froude, Melanie; Alexander, Jan; Cole, Paul; Barclay, Jenni

2014-05-01

On 13-14 October 2012, Tropical Storm Rafael triggered sediment-laden flash floods in the Belham Valley on Montserrat, West Indies. Rainfall was continuous for ~38 hours and intensity peaked at 48 mm/hr. Flow was strongly unsteady, turbulent with sediment concentrations varying up to hyperconcentrated. Time-lapse images captured at >1 frame per second by remote camera overlooking a surveyed valley section show the development of trains of water surface waves at multiple channel locations during different flow stages. Waves grew and diminished in height and remained stationary or migrated upstream. Trains of waves persisted for <5 minutes, until a single wave broke, sometimes initiating the breaking of adjacent waves within the train. Channel-wide surges (bores) propagating downstream with distinct turbulent flow fronts, were observed at irregular intervals during and up to 7 hours after peak stage. These bores are mechanically similar to breaking front tidal bores and arid flood bores, and resulted in a sudden increase in flow depth and velocity. When a bore front came into close proximity (within ~10 m) upstream of a train of water surface waves, the waves appeared to break simultaneously generating a localised surge of water upstream, that was covered by the bore travelling downstream. Those trains in which waves did not break during the passage of a bore temporarily reduced in height. In both cases, water surface waves reformed immediately after the surge in the same location. Deposits from the event, were examined in <4 m deep trenches ~0.5 km downstream of the remote camera. These contained laterally extensive lenticular and sheet-like units comprised of varying admixtures of sand and gravel that are attributed to antidunes, and associated transitions from upper-stage-plane-beds. Some of the structures are organised within concave upward sequences which contain downflow shifts between foreset and backset laminae; interpreted as trough fills from chute-and-pools or water surface wave breaking. At least 90% of the deposit is interpreted upper flow regime origin. The sequence, geometry and lamina-scale texture of the sedimentary structures will be discussed with reference to remote camera images of rapidly varying, unsteady and pulsatory flow behaviour.

Surface wave effects on water temperature in the Baltic Sea: simulations with the coupled NEMO-WAM model

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Alari, Victor; Staneva, Joanna; Breivik, Øyvind; Bidlot, Jean-Raymond; Mogensen, Kristian; Janssen, Peter

2016-08-01

Coupled circulation (NEMO) and wave model (WAM) system was used to study the effects of surface ocean waves on water temperature distribution and heat exchange at regional scale (the Baltic Sea). Four scenarios—including Stokes-Coriolis force, sea-state dependent energy flux (additional turbulent kinetic energy due to breaking waves), sea-state dependent momentum flux and the combination these forcings—were simulated to test the impact of different terms on simulated temperature distribution. The scenario simulations were compared to a control simulation, which included a constant wave-breaking coefficient, but otherwise was without any wave effects. The results indicate a pronounced effect of waves on surface temperature, on the distribution of vertical temperature and on upwelling's. Overall, when all three wave effects were accounted for, did the estimates of temperature improve compared to control simulation. During the summer, the wave-induced water temperature changes were up to 1 °C. In northern parts of the Baltic Sea, a warming of the surface layer occurs in the wave included simulations in summer months. This in turn reduces the cold bias between simulated and measured data, e.g. the control simulation was too cold compared to measurements. The warming is related to sea-state dependent energy flux. This implies that a spatio-temporally varying wave-breaking coefficient is necessary, because it depends on actual sea state. Wave-induced cooling is mostly observed in near-coastal areas and is the result of intensified upwelling in the scenario, when Stokes-Coriolis forcing is accounted for. Accounting for sea-state dependent momentum flux results in modified heat exchange at the water-air boundary which consequently leads to warming of surface water compared to control simulation.

Simulation of breaking waves using the high-order spectral method with laboratory experiments: Wave-breaking onset

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Seiffert, Betsy R.; Ducrozet, Guillaume; Bonnefoy, Félicien

2017-11-01

This study investigates a wave-breaking onset criteria to be implemented in the non-linear potential flow solver HOS-NWT. The model is a computationally efficient, open source code, which solves for the free surface in a numerical wave tank using the High-Order Spectral (HOS) method. The goal of this study is to determine the best method to identify the onset of random single and multiple breaking waves over a large domain at the exact time they occur. To identify breaking waves, a breaking onset criteria based on the ratio of local energy flux velocity to the local crest velocity, introduced by Barthelemy et al. (2017) is selected. The breaking parameter is uniquely applied in the numerical model in that calculations of the breaking onset criteria ratio are not made only at the location of the wave crest, but at every point in the domain and at every time step. This allows the model to calculate the onset of a breaking wave the moment it happens, and without knowing anything about the wave a priori. The application of the breaking criteria at every point in the domain and at every time step requires the phase velocity to be calculated instantaneously everywhere in the domain and at every time step. This is achieved by calculating the instantaneous phase velocity using the Hilbert transform and dispersion relation. A comparison between more traditional crest-tracking techniques shows the calculation of phase velocity using Hilbert transform at the location of the breaking wave crest provides a good approximation of crest velocity. The ability of the selected wave breaking criteria to predict single and multiple breaking events in two dimensions is validated by a series of large-scale experiments. Breaking waves are generated by energy focusing and modulational instability methods, with a wide range of primary frequencies. Steep irregular waves which lead to breaking waves, and irregular waves with an energy focusing wave superimposed are also generated. This set of waves provides a wide range of breaking-wave strengths, types and scales for validation of the model. A comparison of calculations made using HOS-NWT with experimental measurements show that the model is successful at predicting the occurrence of wave breaking, as well as accurately calculating breaking onset time and location. Although the current study is limited to a unidirectional wave field, the success of the wave-breaking model presented provides the basis for application of the model in a multidirectional wave field. By including wave breaking onset with the addition of an appropriate energy dissipation model into HOS-NWT, we can increase the application range of the model, as well as decrease the occurrence of numerical instabilities that are associated with breaking waves in a potential flow solver. An accurate description of the wave field is useful for predicting the dynamic response of offshore vessels and marine renewable energy devices, predicting loads on marine structures and the general physics of ocean waves, for example.

Spontaneous Wave Generation from Submesoscale Fronts and Filaments

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Shakespeare, C. J.; Hogg, A.

2016-02-01

Submesoscale features such as eddies, fronts, jets and filaments can be significant sources of spontaneous wave generation at the ocean surface. Unlike near-inertial waves forced by winds, these spontaneous waves are typically of higher frequency and can propagate through the thermocline, whereupon they break and drive mixing in the ocean interior. Here we investigate the spontaneous generation, propagation and subsequent breaking of these waves using a combination of theory and submesoscale resolving numerical models. The mechanism of generation is nearly identical to that of lee waves where flow is deflected over a rigid obstacle on the sea floor. Here, very sharp fronts and filaments of order 100m width moving in the submesoscale surface flow generate "surface lee waves" by presenting an obstacle to the surrounding stratified fluid. Using our numerical model we quantify the net downward wave energy flux from the surface, and where it is dissipated in the water column. Our results suggest an alternative to the classical paradigm where the energy associated with mixing in the ocean interior is sourced from bottom-generated lee waves.

Assessing the performance of formulations for nonlinear feedback of surface gravity waves on ocean currents over coastal waters

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wang, Pengcheng; Sheng, Jinyu; Hannah, Charles

2017-08-01

This study presents applications of a two-way coupled wave-circulation modelling system over coastal waters, with a special emphasis of performance assessments of two different methods for nonlinear feedback of ocean surface gravity waves on three-dimensional (3D) ocean currents. These two methods are the vortex force (VF) formulation suggested by Bennis et al. (2011) and the latest version of radiation stress (RS) formulation suggested by Mellor (2015). The coupled modelling system is first applied to two idealized test cases of surf-zone scales to validate implementations of these two methods in the coupled wave-circulation system. Model results show that the latest version of RS has difficulties in producing the undertow over the surf zone. The coupled system is then applied to Lunenburg Bay (LB) of Nova Scotia during Hurricane Juan in 2003. The coupled system using both the VF and RS formulations generates much stronger and more realistic 3D circulation in the Bay during Hurricane Juan than the circulation-only model, demonstrating the importance of surface wave forces to the 3D ocean circulation over coastal waters. However, the RS formulation generates some weak unphysical currents outside the wave breaking zone due to a less reasonable representation for the vertical distribution of the RS gradients over a slopping bottom. These weak unphysical currents are significantly magnified in a two-way coupled system when interacting with large surface waves, degrading the model performance in simulating currents at one observation site. Our results demonstrate that the VF formulation with an appropriate parameterization of wave breaking effects is able to produce reasonable results for applications over coastal waters during extreme weather events. The RS formulation requires a complex wave theory rather than the linear wave theory for the approximation of a vertical RS term to improve its performance under both breaking and non-breaking wave conditions.

On the upper ocean turbulent dissipation rate due to microscale breakers and small whitecaps

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Banner, Michael L.; Morison, Russel P.

2018-06-01

In ocean wave modelling, accurately computing the evolution of the wind-wave spectrum depends on the source terms and the spectral bandwidth used. The wave dissipation rate source term which spectrally quantifies wave breaking and other dissipative processes remains poorly understood, including the spectral bandwidth needed to capture the essential model physics. The observational study of Sutherland and Melville (2015a) investigated the relative dissipation rate contributions of breaking waves, from large-scale whitecaps to microbreakers. They concluded that a large fraction of wave energy was dissipated by microbreakers. However, in strong contrast with their findings, our analysis of their data and other recent data sets shows that for young seas, microbreakers and small whitecaps contribute only a small fraction of the total breaking wave dissipation rate. For older seas, we find microbreakers and small whitecaps contribute a large fraction of the breaking wave dissipation rate, but this is only a small fraction of the total dissipation rate, which is now dominated by non-breaking contributions. Hence, for all the wave age conditions observed, microbreakers make an insignificant contribution to the total wave dissipation rate in the wave boundary layer. We tested the sensitivity of the results to the SM15a whitecap analysis methodology by transforming the SM15a breaking data using our breaking crest processing methodology. This resulted in the small-scale breaking waves making an even smaller contribution to the total wave dissipation rate, and so the result is independent of the breaker processing methodology. Comparison with other near-surface total TKE dissipation rate observations also support this conclusion. These contributions to the spectral dissipation rate in ocean wave models are small and need not be explicitly resolved.

Modeling Water Waves with Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics

DTIC Science & Technology

2011-09-30

Lagrangian nature of SPH allows the modeling of wave breaking, surf zones, ship waves, and wave-structure interaction, where the free surface becomes...particle detection--To study free surface flows and analyze their complex deformations, we need to know which particles are located on the free surface ...Hydrodynamics is proving to be a competent modeling scheme for free surface flows in two and three dimensions. As the GPU hardware improves, it is

Coherent Structures and Evolution of Vorticity in Short-Crested Breaking Surface Waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kirby, James; Derakhti, Morteza

2017-11-01

We employ a multi-phase LES/VOF code to study turbulence and coherent structures generated during breaking of short-crested surface water waves. We examine the evolution of coherent vortex structures evolving at the scale of the width of the breaking event, and their long-time interaction with smaller vortex loops formed by the local instability of the breaking crest. Long-time results are often characterized by the detachment of the larger scale vortex loop from the surface and formation of a closed vortex ring. The evolution of circulation for the vortical flow field is examined. The initial concentration of forcing close to the free surface leads to spatial distributions of both span-wise and vertical vorticity distributions which are concentrated close to the surface. This result, which persists into shallow water, is at odds with the basic simplicity of the Peregrine mechanism, suggesting that even shallow flows such as the surf zone should be regarded as being forced (in dissipative situations) by a wave-induced surface stress rather than a uniform-over-depth body force. The localized forcing leads to the development of a complex pattern of stream-wise vorticity, comparable in strength to the vertical and span-wise components, and also persist into shallow water. NSF OCE-1435147.

Assessing the performance of wave breaking parameterizations in shallow waters in spectral wave models

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lin, Shangfei; Sheng, Jinyu

2017-12-01

Depth-induced wave breaking is the primary dissipation mechanism for ocean surface waves in shallow waters. Different parametrizations were developed for parameterizing depth-induced wave breaking process in ocean surface wave models. The performance of six commonly-used parameterizations in simulating significant wave heights (SWHs) is assessed in this study. The main differences between these six parameterizations are representations of the breaker index and the fraction of breaking waves. Laboratory and field observations consisting of 882 cases from 14 sources of published observational data are used in the assessment. We demonstrate that the six parameterizations have reasonable performance in parameterizing depth-induced wave breaking in shallow waters, but with their own limitations and drawbacks. The widely-used parameterization suggested by Battjes and Janssen (1978, BJ78) has a drawback of underpredicting the SWHs in the locally-generated wave conditions and overpredicting in the remotely-generated wave conditions over flat bottoms. The drawback of BJ78 was addressed by a parameterization suggested by Salmon et al. (2015, SA15). But SA15 had relatively larger errors in SWHs over sloping bottoms than BJ78. We follow SA15 and propose a new parameterization with a dependence of the breaker index on the normalized water depth in deep waters similar to SA15. In shallow waters, the breaker index of the new parameterization has a nonlinear dependence on the local bottom slope rather than the linear dependence used in SA15. Overall, this new parameterization has the best performance with an average scatter index of ∼8.2% in comparison with the three best performing existing parameterizations with the average scatter index between 9.2% and 13.6%.

Investigation of Surface Waves in Deep and Shallow Water using Coherent Radars at Grazing Incidence

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Buckley, M.; Horstmann, J.; Carrasco, R.; Seemann, J.; Stresser, M.

2016-02-01

Coherent microwave radars operating at X-band near grazing incidence are utilized to measure the backscatter intensity and Doppler velocity from the small-scale surface roughness of the ocean. The radar backscatter is dependent on the wind and strongly modulated by the surface waves and therefore enables to retrieve the surface wind as well as surface waves. The radar measured Doppler velocities are also modulated by contributions from the wind, current and waves and allow getting additional information on these parameters. In addition coherent marine radars allow to observe breaking waves, which lead to a increase in radar backscatter as well as a strong change of the Doppler speed.Within this presentation we will introduce and validate new methods to measure spectral wave properties such as wave directions, periods and significant wave height from coherent marine radars. The methods have been applied in deep and shallow water and validated to measurements of directional wave riders as well as an Acoustic Wave and Current Profiler. These comparisons show an overall excellent performance of coherent radars for the retrieval of spectral wave properties (e.g. Hs rms of 0.2 m). Furthermore, new methodologies will be presented that enable to observe and quantify wave breaking in deep water as well as in the littoral zone. The above mentioned methods have been applied to investigate the influence of Offshore Wind Farms (OWF) on the wave field with respect to the spectral properties as well as the amount of wave breaking. We will present the results obtained during a cruise in May 2015 within and around the OWF Dantysk in the German Bight of the North Sea, which consist of eighty 3.5 MW wind turbines. In addition we will present our initial results on the investigation of wave dissipation in the littoral zone at the coast of the island Sylt using marine radars, pressure gauges as well as directional wave riders.

Inclusion of surface gravity wave effects in vertical mixing parameterizations with application to Chesapeake Bay, USA

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Fisher, A. W.; Sanford, L. P.; Scully, M. E.; Suttles, S. E.

2016-02-01

Enhancement of wind-driven mixing by Langmuir turbulence (LT) may have important implications for exchanges of mass and momentum in estuarine and coastal waters, but the transient nature of LT and observational constraints make quantifying its impact on vertical exchange difficult. Recent studies have shown that wind events can be of first order importance to circulation and mixing in estuaries, prompting this investigation into the ability of second-moment turbulence closure schemes to model wind-wave enhanced mixing in an estuarine environment. An instrumented turbulence tower was deployed in middle reaches of Chesapeake Bay in 2013 and collected observations of coherent structures consistent with LT that occurred under regions of breaking waves. Wave and turbulence measurements collected from a vertical array of Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs) provided direct estimates of TKE, dissipation, turbulent length scale, and the surface wave field. Direct measurements of air-sea momentum and sensible heat fluxes were collected by a co-located ultrasonic anemometer deployed 3m above the water surface. Analyses of the data indicate that the combined presence of breaking waves and LT significantly influences air-sea momentum transfer, enhancing vertical mixing and acting to align stress in the surface mixed layer in the direction of Lagrangian shear. Here these observations are compared to the predictions of commonly used second-moment turbulence closures schemes, modified to account for the influence of wave breaking and LT. LT parameterizations are evaluated under neutrally stratified conditions and buoyancy damping parameterizations are evaluated under stably stratified conditions. We compare predicted turbulent quantities to observations for a variety of wind, wave, and stratification conditions. The effects of fetch-limited wave growth, surface buoyancy flux, and tidal distortion on wave mixing parameterizations will also be discussed.

Laboratory modeling of edge wave generation over a plane beach by breaking waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Abcha, Nizar; Ezersky, Alexander; Pelinovsky, Efim

2015-04-01

Edge waves play an important role in coastal hydrodynamics: in sediment transport, in formation of coastline structure and coastal bottom topography. Investigation of physical mechanisms leading to the edge waves generation allows us to determine their effect on the characteristics of spatially periodic patterns like crescent submarine bars and cusps observed in the coastal zone. In the present paper we investigate parametric excitation of edge wave with frequency two times less than the frequency of surface wave propagating perpendicular to the beach. Such mechanism of edge wave generation has been studied previously in a large number of papers using the assumption of non-breaking waves. This assumption was used in theoretical calculations and such conditions were created in laboratory experiments. In the natural conditions, the wave breaking is typical when edge waves are generated at sea beach. We study features of such processes in laboratory experiments. Experiments were performed in the wave flume of the Laboratory of Continental and Coast Morphodynamics (M2C), Caen. The flume is equipment with a wave maker controlled by computer. To model a plane beach, a PVC plate is placed at small angle to the horizontal bottom. Several resistive probes were used to measure characteristics of waves: one of them was used to measure free surface displacement near the wave maker and two probes were glued on the inclined plate. These probes allowed us to measure run-up due to parametrically excited edge waves. Run-up height is determined by processing a movie shot by high-speed camera. Sub-harmonic generation of standing edge waves is observed for definite control parameters: edge waves represent themselves a spatial mode with wavelength equal to double width of the flume; the frequency of edge wave is equal to half of surface wave frequency. Appearance of sub-harmonic mode instability is studied using probes and movie processing. The dependence of edge wave exponential growth rate index on the amplitude of surface wave is found. On the plane of parameters (amplitude - frequency) of surface wave we have found a region corresponding parametric instability leading to excitation of edge waves. It is shown that for small super criticalities, the amplitude of edge wave grows with amplitude of surface wave. For large amplitude of surface wave, wave breaking appears and parametric instability is suppressed. Such suppression of instability is caused by increasing of turbulent viscosity in near shore zone. It was shown that parametric excitation of edge wave can increase significantly (up to two times) the maximal run-up. Theoretical model is developed to explain suppression of instability due to turbulent viscosity. This theoretical model is based on nonlinear mode amplitude equation including terms responsible for parametric forcing, frequency detuning, nonlinear detuning, linear and nonlinear edge wave damping. Dependence of coefficients on turbulent viscosity is discussed.

Ocean wave generation by collapsing ice shelves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Macayeal, D. R.; Bassis, J. N.; Okal, E. A.; Aster, R. C.; Cathles, L. M.

2008-12-01

The 28-29 February, 2008, break-up of the Wilkins Ice Shelf, Antarctica, exemplifies the now-familiar, yet largely unexplained pattern of explosive ice-shelf break-up. While environmental warming is a likely ultimate cause of explosive break-up, several key aspects of their short-term behavior need to be explained: (1) The abrupt, near-simultaneous onset of iceberg calving across long spans of the ice front margin; (2) High outward drift velocity (about 0.3 m/s) of a leading phalanx of tabular icebergs that originate from the seaward edge of the intact ice shelf prior to break-up; (3) Rapid coverage of the ocean surface in the wake of this leading phalanx by small, capsized and dismembered tabular icebergs; (4) Extremely large gravitational potential energy release rates, e.g., up to 3 × 1010 W; (5) Lack of proximal iceberg-calving triggers that control the timing of break-up onset and that maintain the high break-up calving rates through to the conclusion of the event. Motivated by seismic records obtained from icebergs and the Ross Ice Shelf that show hundreds of micro- tsunamis emanating from near the ice shelf front, we re-examine the basic dynamic features of ice- shelf/ocean-wave interaction and, in particular, examine the possibility that collapsing ice shelves themselves are a source of waves that stimulate the disintegration process. We propose that ice-shelf generated surface-gravity waves associated with initial calving at an arbitrary seed location produce stress perturbations capable of triggering the onset of calving on the entire ice front. Waves generated by parting detachment rifts, iceberg capsize and break-up act next to stimulate an inverted submarine landslide (ice- slide) process, where gravitational potential energy released by upward movement of buoyant ice is radiated as surface gravity waves in the wake of the advancing phalanx of tabular icebergs. We conclude by describing how field research and remote sensing can be used to test the various conjectures about ice- shelf/wave interaction that appear to be at play during ice-shelf disintegration.

DARLA: Data Assimilation and Remote Sensing for Littoral Applications

DTIC Science & Technology

2017-03-01

in the surf zone. The foam produced in an actively breaking crest, or wave roller, has a distinct signature in IR imagery. A retrieval algorithm is...the surface. The velocity profiles are obtained from a pulse-coherent acoustic Doppler sonar on a wave-following platform, termed a Surface Wave

Waves: Internal Tides

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Ray, Richard D.

1999-01-01

Oceanic internal tides are internal waves with tidal periodicities. They are ubiquitous throughout the ocean, although generally more pronounced near large bathymetric features such as mid-ocean ridges and continental slopes. The internal vertical displacements associated with these waves can be extraordinarily large. Near some shelf breaks where the surface tides are strong, internal displacements (e.g., of an isothermal surface) can exceed 200 meters. Displacements of 10 meters in the open ocean are not uncommon. The associated current velocities are usually comparable to or larger than the currents of the surface tide. On continental shelves internal tides can occasionally generate packets of internal solitons, which are detectable in remote sensing imagery. Other common nonlinear features are generation of higher harmonics (e.g., 6-hr waves) and wave breaking. Internal tides are known to be an important energy source for mixing of shelf waters. Recent research suggests that they may also be a significant energy source for deep-ocean mixing.

Breaking Waves on the Ocean Surface

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Schwendeman, Michael S.

In the open ocean, breaking waves are a critical mechanism for the transfer of energy, momentum, and mass between the atmosphere and the ocean. Despite much study, fundamental questions about wave breaking, such as what determines whether a wave will break, remain unresolved. Measurements of oceanic breakers, or "whitecaps," are often used to validate the hypotheses derived in simplified theoretical, numerical, or experimental studies. Real-world measurements are also used to improve the parameterizations of wave-breaking in large global models, such as those forecasting climate change. Here, measurements of whitecaps are presented using ship-based cameras, from two experiments in the North Pacific Ocean. First, a method for georectifying the camera imagery is described using the distant horizon, without additional instrumentation. Over the course of the experiment, this algorithm correctly identifies the horizon in 92% of images in which it is visible. In such cases, the calculation of camera pitch and roll is accurate to within 1 degree. The main sources of error in the final georectification are from mislabeled horizons due to clouds, rain, or poor lighting, and from vertical "heave" motions of the camera, which cannot be calculated with the horizon method. This method is used for correcting the imagery from the first experiment, and synchronizing the imagery from the second experiment to an onboard inertial motion package. Next, measurements of the whitecap coverage, W, are shown from both experiments. Although W is often used in models to represent whitecapping, large uncertainty remains in the existing parameterizations. The data show good agreement with recent measurements using the wind speed. Although wave steepness and dissipation are hypothesized to be more robust predictors of W, this is shown to not always be the case. Wave steepness shows comparable success to the wind parameterizations only when using a mean-square slope variable calculated over the equilibrium range waves and normalizing by the wave directional spread. Meanwhile, correlation of W with turbulent dissipation measurements is significantly worse, which may be due to uncertainty in the measurements or bias related to micro-breaking waves. Finally, phase-resolved, three-dimensional, measurements of the whitecaps were made from a new ship-based stereo video system. Comparison with concurrent buoy measurements indicate that the stereo data accurately reproduces the wave statistics, including the frequency spectra. The whitecaps are characterized by transient and spatially localized regions of extreme surface gradients, rather than large crest-to-trough steepnesses. It was found that whitecaps were around 10 times more likely to have extreme slopes, and 50% of the observed extreme surface slopes were in the vicinity of the breaking waves. The maximum whitecap slopes show good agreement with the Stokes 120 degree limiting crest geometry, and the whitecap crest loses much of its maximum steepness shortly after the onset of breaking. The whitecap phase speeds are consistently less than the linear or weakly nonlinear predicted phase speed, which indicate the effect of narrow-band wave groups, despite the broad-band wave spectra.

Application of nonlinear deterministic decomposition to the prediction and energy dissipation of long-crested irregular ocean surface waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Meza Conde, Eustorgio

The Hybrid Wave Model (HWM) is a deterministic nonlinear wave model developed for the computation of wave properties in the vicinity of ocean wave measurements. The HWM employs both Mode-Coupling and Phase Modulation Methods to model the wave-wave interactions in an ocean wave field. Different from other nonlinear wave models, the HWM decouples the nonlinear wave interactions from ocean wave field measurements and decomposes the wave field into a set of free-wave components. In this dissertation the HWM is applied to the prediction of wave elevation from pressure measurements and to the quantification of energy during breaking of long-crested irregular surface waves. 1.A transient wave train was formed in a two-dimensional wave flume by sequentially generating a series of waves from high to low frequencies that superposed at a downstream location. The predicted wave elevation using the HWM based on the pressure measurement of a very steep transient wave train is in excellent agreement with the corresponding elevation measurement, while that using Linear Wave Theory (LWT) has relatively large discrepancies. Furthermore, the predicted elevation using the HWM is not sensitive to the choice of the cutoff frequency, while that using LWT is very sensitive. 2.Several transient wave trains containing an isolated plunging or spilling breaker at a prescribed location were generated in a two-dimensional wave flume using the same superposition technique. Surface elevation measurements of each transient wave train were made at locations before and after breaking. Applying the HWM nonlinear deterministic decomposition to the measured elevation, the free-wave components comprising the transient wave train were derived. By comparing the free-wave spectra before and after breaking it is found that energy loss was almost exclusively from wave components at frequencies higher than the spectral peak frequency. Even though the wave components near the peak frequency are the largest, they do not significantly gain or lose energy after breaking. It was also observed that wave components of frequencies significantly below or near the peak frequency gain a small portion of energy lost by the high-frequency waves. These findings may have important implications to the ocean wave energy budget.

On the response to ocean surface currents in synthetic aperture radar imagery

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Phillips, O. M.

1984-01-01

The balance of wave action spectral density for a fixed wave-number is expressed in terms of a new dimensionless function, the degree of saturation, b, and is applied to an analysis of the variations of this quantity (and local spectral level) at wave-numbers large compared to that of the spectral peak, that are produced by variations in the ocean surface currents in the presence of wind input and wave breaking. Particular care is taken to provide physically based representations of wind input and loss by wave breaking and a relatively convenient equation is derived that specifies the distribution of the degree of saturation in a current field, relative to its ambient (undisturbed) background in the absence of currents. The magnitude of the variations in b depends on two parameters, U(o)/c, where U/(o) is the velocity scale of the current and c the phase speed of the surface waves at the (fixed) wave-number considered or sampled by SAR, and S = (L/lambda) (u*/c)(2), where L is the length scale of the current distribution, lambda the wavelength of the surface waves the length scale of the current distribution, lambda the wavelength of the surface waves and u* the friction velocity of the wind.

Imaging across the interface of small-scale breaking waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Techet, Alexandra H.; Belden, Jesse L.

2007-11-01

Flow characteristics on both the air and water side of small scale spilling and plunging waves are investigated using fully time-resolved particle image velocimetry (PIV). PIV at 1000 frames per second (fps) is used to capture the flow field in both the air and water for waves generated by shoaling. Reynolds number of the waves is on the order of Re = 9x10^4 to 2x10^6, where Re = ρ√g 3̂μ, ρ is fluid density, μ is fluid dynamic viscosity, g is gravity, and λ is the characteristic wavelength of the breaking wave before breaking. Isopropyl alcohol is mixed with the distilled water in the tank to reduce surface tension and thus achieve plunging breakers on this scale. Flow in the water is seeded using conventional silver-coated hollow glass spheres, whereas the quiescent air side (i.e. no wind) is seeded using micro-air balloons with high stokes drag and thus long settling times. Imaging of both the air and water are performed simultaneously and advanced image processing is performed to determine the water surface location and to avoid surface tracking during PIV processing. Repeatable, coherent vortical structures are revealed on the air-side of the waves and are considered mechanisms for energy transfer across the interface.

Wave Dissipation over Nearshore Beach Morphology: Insights from High-Resolution LIDAR Observations and the SWASH Wave Model

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Mulligan, R. P.; Gomes, E.; McNinch, J.; Brodie, K. L.

2016-02-01

Numerical modelling of the nearshore zone can be computationally intensive due to the complexity of wave breaking, and the need for high temporal and spatial resolution. In this study we apply the SWASH non-hydrostatic wave-flow model that phase-resolves the free surface and fluid motions in the water column at high resolution. The model is forced using observed directional energy spectra, and results are compared to wave observations during moderate storm events. Observations are collected outside the surf zone using acoustic wave and currents sensors, and inside the surf zone over a 100 m transect using high-resolution LIDAR measurements of the sea surface from a sensor mounted on a tower on the beach dune at the Field Research Facility in Duck, NC. The model is applied to four cases with different wave conditions and bathymetry, and used to predict the spatial variability in wave breaking, and correlation between energy dissipation and morphologic features. Model results compare well with observations of spectral evolution outside the surf zone, and with the remotely sensed observations of wave transformation inside the surf zone. The results indicate the importance of nearshore bars, rip-channels, and larger features (major scour depression under the pier following large waves from Hurricane Irene) on the location of wave breaking and alongshore variability in wave energy dissipation.

Characterizing Droplet Formation from Non-Linear Slosh in a Propellant Tank

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Brodnick, Jacob; Yang, Hong; West, Jeffrey

2015-01-01

The Fluid Dynamics Branch (ER42) at the Marshall Space Flight Center (MSFC) was tasked with characterizing the formation and evolution of liquid droplets resulting from nonlinear propellant slosh in a storage tank. Lateral excitation of propellant tanks can produce high amplitude nonlinear slosh waves through large amplitude excitations and or excitation frequencies near a resonance frequency of the tank. The high amplitude slosh waves become breaking waves upon attaining a certain amplitude or encountering a contracting geometry such as the upper dome section of a spherical tank. Inherent perturbations in the thinning regions of breaking waves result in alternating regions of high and low pressure within the fluid. Droplets form once the force from the local pressure differential becomes larger than the force maintaining the fluid interface shape due to surface tension. Droplets released from breaking waves in a pressurized tank may lead to ullage collapse given the appropriate conditions due to the increased liquid surface area and thus heat transfer between the fluids. The goal of this project is to create an engineering model that describes droplet formation as a function of propellant slosh for use in the evaluation of ullage collapse during a sloshing event. The Volume of Fluid (VOF) model in the production level Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) code Loci-Stream was used to predict droplet formation from breaking waves with realistic surface tension characteristics. Various excitation frequencies and amplitudes were investigated at multiple fill levels for a single storage tank to create the engineering model of droplet formation from lateral propellant slosh.

Hybrid Eulerian and Lagrangian Simulation of Steep and Breaking Waves and Surface Fluxes in High Winds

DTIC Science & Technology

2011-09-30

simulation provides boundary condition to the SPH simulation in a sub- domain. For the test with surface wave propagation, the free surface and the...This project aims at developing an advanced simulation tool for multi-fluids free - surface flows that can be used to study the fundamental physics...of horizontal velocity(normalized by wave phase speed c) obtained from SPH simulation and the corresponding free surface obtained from LSM

Cyclic Steps and Antidunes : Relating Their Features to a Suspension Index

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Yokokawa, M.; Kishima, Y.; Parker, G.

2010-12-01

Cyclic Steps and Antidunes : Relating Their Features to a Suspension Index Miwa Yokokawa (1), Yasushi Kishima (1), Gary Parker (2, 3) 1: Osaka Institute of Technology, Hirakata, Osaka, Japan 2: Dept. of Civil & Environmental Engineering, University of Illinois, Urbana, Illinois, U.S.A. 3: Dept. of Geology, University of Illinois, Urbana, Illinois, U.S.A. There are very few comparative studies of the differences in hydraulic conditions and morphologic features of bed- and water-surface-waves associated with cyclic steps and antidunes. In this study, the features of both the bed and the water surface, as well as hydraulic conditions are examined over the spectrum from antidune to cyclic steps. Experiments were performed using a flume at the Osaka Institute of Technology. The resultant features of the bedforms are as follows. In the case of antidunes, bed waves and water surface waves are in phase except when they collapse. Antidunes show several kinds of behavior; migrating downstream, standing, or migrating upstream. Upstream-migrating antidunes are divided into non-breaking, and breaking-types. Breaking antidunes appear alternatively with the plane bed state. Cyclic steps migrate upstream regularly associated with trains of hydraulic jumps, which divide each step. There is a significant change in water depth at the hydraulic jump, so that the phasing between the bed waves and water surface waves break at the each hydraulic jump. There is a kind of compromise between cyclic steps and antidunes, which we designate as “intermediate steps”. They move upstream and are associated with regular trains of hydraulic jumps. The jumps, however, occasionally collapse toward upstream. When this happens, bed waves move rapidly upstream; low-amplitude water surface waves and bed waves become in phase all over the bed shortly after the collapse. Then after some time, water surface waves become sufficiently prominent to yield regular hydraulic jumps. This cycle is then repeated.The hydraulic conditions for these bedfoms were examined using three non-dimensional parameters, i.e. the Froude Number, the Suspension Index, and the dimensionless particle size. The suspension index is a newly introduced parameter which is the ratio of the shear velocity divided by the settling velocity of the sediment (u*/Vs). Data from previous experimental studies are examined together with the present data in studying the characteristic regimes of bedform formation. In a diagram of Froude Number v.s. Suspension Index, antidunes, intermediate steps and cyclic steps can be divided along the axis of the Suspension Index. In the lowest range of the suspension index, downstream-migrating antidunes and upstream-migrating antidunes that do not break are found. The intermediate steps discussed above are located in the middle range. The highest range corresponds to cyclic steps and breaking antidunes. As described above, the Suspension Index can serve as a scale to quantify the spectrum between antidunes and cyclic steps. The use of the parameter also helps verify that suspension plays an important role in the formation and maintenance of cyclic steps.

Breaking phase focused wave group loads on offshore wind turbine monopiles

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ghadirian, A.; Bredmose, H.; Dixen, M.

2016-09-01

The current method for calculating extreme wave loads on offshore wind turbine structures is based on engineering models for non-breaking regular waves. The present article has the aim of validating previously developed models at DTU, namely the OceanWave3D potential flow wave model and a coupled OceanWave3D-OpenFOAM solver, against measurements of focused wave group impacts on a monopile. The focused 2D and 3D wave groups are reproduced and the free surface elevation and the in-line forces are compared to the experimental results. In addition, the pressure distribution on the monopile is examined at the time of maximum force and discussed in terms of shape and magnitude. Relative pressure time series are also compared between the simulations and experiments and detailed pressure fields for a 2D and 3D impact are discussed in terms of impact type. In general a good match for free surface elevation, in-line force and wave-induced pressures is found.

Air Entrainment in Steady Breaking Waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Li, C. Y.; Duncan, J. H.; Wenz, A.; Full, O. E.

1997-11-01

Air entrainment due to steady breaking waves generated by fully submerged hydrofoils moving at constant speed and angle of attack is investigated experimentally. Three hydrofoils with the same shape (NACA 0012) but different chords (15, 20 and 30 cm) are used with Froude scaled operating conditions to generate the breaking waves. In this way, the effect of scale due to the combined influence of surface tension and viscosity on the bubble entrainment process is investigated. The bubbles are measured from plan-view and side-view 35-mm photographs of the wake. It is found that the number and average size of the bubbles increases dramatically with scale. High-speed movies of the turbulent breaking region that rides on the forward face of the wave are also used to observe bubble entrainment events. It is found that the bubbles are entrained periodically when the leading edge of the breaking region rushes forward and plunges over a pocket of air. This plunging process appears to become more frequent and more violent as the scale of the breaker increases.

Orbitally shaken shallow fluid layers. I. Regime classification

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Alpresa, Paola; Sherwin, Spencer; Weinberg, Peter; van Reeuwijk, Maarten

2018-03-01

Orbital shakers are simple devices that provide mixing, aeration, and shear stress at multiple scales and high throughput. For this reason, they are extensively used in a wide range of applications from protein production to bacterial biofilms and endothelial cell experiments. This study focuses on the behaviour of orbitally shaken shallow fluid layers in cylindrical containers. In order to investigate the behaviour over a wide range of different conditions, a significant number of numerical simulations are carried out under different configuration parameters. We demonstrate that potential theory—despite the relatively low Reynolds number of the system—describes the free-surface amplitude well and the velocity field reasonably well, except when the forcing frequency is close to a natural frequency and resonance occurs. By classifying the simulations into non-breaking, breaking, and breaking with part of the bottom uncovered, it is shown that the onset of wave breaking is well described by Δh/(2R) = 0.7Γ, where Δh is the free-surface amplitude, R is the container radius, and Γ is the container aspect ratio; Δh can be well approximated using the potential theory. This result is in agreement with standard wave breaking theories although the significant inertial forcing causes wave breaking at lower amplitudes.

Experimental and theoretical study of Rayleigh-Lamb waves in a plate containing a surface-breaking crack

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Paffenholz, Joseph; Fox, Jon W.; Gu, Xiaobai; Jewett, Greg S.; Datta, Subhendu K.

1990-01-01

Scattering of Rayleigh-Lamb waves by a normal surface-breaking crack in a plate has been studied both theoretically and experimentally. The two-dimensionality of the far field, generated by a ball impact source, is exploited to characterize the source function using a direct integration technique. The scattering of waves generated by this impact source by the crack is subsequently solved by employing a Green's function integral expression for the scattered field coupled with a finite element representation of the near field. It is shown that theoretical results of plate response, both in frequency and time, are similar to those obtained experimentally. Additionally, implication for practical applications are discussed.

Breaking Gravity Waves Over Large-Scale Topography

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Doyle, J. D.; Shapiro, M. A.

2002-12-01

The importance of mountain waves is underscored by the numerous studies that document the impact on the atmospheric momentum balance, turbulence generation, and the creation of severe downslope winds. As stably stratified air is forced to rise over topography, large amplitude internal gravity waves may be generated that propagate vertically, amplify and breakdown in the upper troposphere and lower stratosphere. Many of the numerical studies reported on in the literature have used two- and three-dimensional models with simple, idealized initial states to examine gravity wave breaking. In spite of the extensive previous work, many questions remain regarding gravity wave breaking in the real atmosphere. Outstanding issues that are potentially important include: turbulent mixing and wave overturning processes, mountain wave drag, downstream effects, and the mesoscale predictability of wave breaking. The current limit in our knowledge of gravity wave breaking can be partially attributed to lack of observations. During the Fronts and Atlantic Storm-Track Experiment (FASTEX), a large amplitude gravity wave was observed in the lee of Greenland on 29 January 1997. Observations taken collected during FASTEX presented a unique opportunity to study topographically forced gravity wave breaking and to assess the ability of high-resolution numerical models to predict the structure and evolution of such phenomena. Measurements from the NOAA G-4 research aircraft and high-resolution numerical simulations are used to study the evolution and dynamics of the large-amplitude gravity wave event that took place during the FASTEX. Vertical cross section analysis of dropwindsonde data, with 50-km horizontal spacing, indicates the presence of a large amplitude breaking gravity wave that extends from above the 150-hPa level to 500 hPa. Flight-level data indicate a horizontal shear of over 10-3 s-1 across the breaking wave with 25 K potential temperature perturbations. This breaking wave may have important implications for momentum flux parameterization in mesoscale models, stratospheric-tropospheric exchange dynamics as well as the dynamic sources and sinks of the ozone budget. Additionally, frequent breaking waves over Greenland are a known commercial and military aviation hazard. NRL's nonhydrostatic COAMPS^{TM}$ model is used with four nested grids with horizontal resolutions of 45 km, 15 km, 5 km and 1.67 km and 65 vertical levels to simulate the gravity wave event. The model simulation captures the temporal evolution and horizontal structure of the wave. However, the model underestimates the vertical amplitude of the wave. The model simulation suggests that the breaking wave may be triggered as a consequence of vertically propagating internal gravity waves emanating from katabatic flow near the extreme slopes of eastern Greenland. Additionally, a number of simulations that make use of a horizontally homogeneous initial state and both idealized and actual Greenland topography are performed. These simulations highlight the sensitivity of gravity wave amplification and breaking to the planetary rotation, slope of the Greenland topography, representation of turbulent mixing, and surface processes.

On the kinematic criterion for the inception of breaking in surface gravity waves: Fully nonlinear numerical simulations and experimental verification

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Khait, A.; Shemer, L.

2018-05-01

The evolution of unidirectional wave trains containing a wave that gradually becomes steep is evaluated experimentally and numerically using the Boundary Element Method (BEM). The boundary conditions for the nonlinear numerical simulations corresponded to the actual movements of the wavemaker paddle as recorded in the physical experiments, allowing direct comparison between the measured in experiments' characteristics of the wave train and the numerical predictions. The high level of qualitative and quantitative agreement between the measurements and simulations validated the kinematic criterion for the inception of breaking and the location of the spilling breaker, on the basis of the BEM computations and associated experiments. The breaking inception is associated with the fluid particle at the crest of the steep wave that has been accelerated to match and surpass the crest velocity. The previously observed significant slow-down of the crest while approaching breaking is verified numerically; both narrow-/broad-banded wave trains are considered. Finally, the relative importance of linear and nonlinear contributions is analyzed.

Modelling of upper ocean mixing by wave-induced turbulence

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ghantous, Malek; Babanin, Alexander

2013-04-01

Mixing of the upper ocean affects the sea surface temperature by bringing deeper, colder water to the surface. Because even small changes in the surface temperature can have a large impact on weather and climate, accurately determining the rate of mixing is of central importance for forecasting. Although there are several mixing mechanisms, one that has until recently been overlooked is the effect of turbulence generated by non-breaking, wind-generated surface waves. Lately there has been a lot of interest in introducing this mechanism into models, and real gains have been made in terms of increased fidelity to observational data. However our knowledge of the mechanism is still incomplete. We indicate areas where we believe the existing models need refinement and propose an alternative model. We use two of the models to demonstrate the effect on the mixed layer of wave-induced turbulence by applying them to a one-dimensional mixing model and a stable temperature profile. Our modelling experiment suggests a strong effect on sea surface temperature due to non-breaking wave-induced turbulent mixing.

One-dimensional modelling of upper ocean mixing by turbulence due to wave orbital motion

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ghantous, M.; Babanin, A. V.

2014-02-01

Mixing of the upper ocean affects the sea surface temperature by bringing deeper, colder water to the surface. Because even small changes in the surface temperature can have a large impact on weather and climate, accurately determining the rate of mixing is of central importance for forecasting. Although there are several mixing mechanisms, one that has until recently been overlooked is the effect of turbulence generated by non-breaking, wind-generated surface waves. Lately there has been a lot of interest in introducing this mechanism into ocean mixing models, and real gains have been made in terms of increased fidelity to observational data. However, our knowledge of the mechanism is still incomplete. We indicate areas where we believe the existing parameterisations need refinement and propose an alternative one. We use two of the parameterisations to demonstrate the effect on the mixed layer of wave-induced turbulence by applying them to a one-dimensional mixing model and a stable temperature profile. Our modelling experiment suggests a strong effect on sea surface temperature due to non-breaking wave-induced turbulent mixing.

Laboratory Studies of Sea-Ice-Wave Interactions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Monty, J.; Meylan, M. H.; Babanin, A. V.; Toffoli, A.; Bennetts, L.

2016-12-01

A world-first facility for studying the Marginal Ice Zone has been constructed in the Michell Hydrodynamics Laboratory at the University of Melbourne. A 14m long wave tank (0.75m wide, 0.6m deep) resides in a freezer, where air temperature can be controlled down to -15C. This permits the freezing of the water surface. Large stainless steel ice-making trays (up to 4 m long) are also available to create ice of desired thickness and microstructure, which can be lowered onto the water surface. A computer controlled wave generator is capable of creating waves of any desired form. The temperature of the water in the tank can also be controlled between 2 and 30C. The tank frame is constructed of marine-treated wood and the entire tank is glass and acrylic, permitting the use of corrosive fluids, such as salt water. Here we present the first laboratory experiments of break-up of a controlled thickness, fresh water ice sheet impacted by regular and JONSWAP spectrum surface waves. The geometry of the resultant ice-floes is measured with high-resolution, time-resolved imaging, providing the crucial data of floe size distribution. Initial observations show that, in the case of high steepness waves, the primary mechanisms of ice break-up at the ice edge are overwash and rafting, both of which put weight on the ice interior to the ice-water interface. This additional weight (and impact in the case of rafting) breaks more ice, which allows overwash and rafting deeper into the ice sheet, breaking more ice and so on. For lower steepness waves, overwash and rafting are still present but far less significant. Finally, results of vertical ice movement using laser height gauges will be presented showing the attenuation of waves into an ice sheet and through a pack of ice floes. These results are compared with field data and theory available (e.g. Squire & Moore, Nature, 1980 and Kohout et al., Nature, 2014).

Large-scale laboratory study of breaking wave hydrodynamics over a fixed bar

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

van der A, Dominic A.; van der Zanden, Joep; O'Donoghue, Tom; Hurther, David; Cáceres, Iván.; McLelland, Stuart J.; Ribberink, Jan S.

2017-04-01

A large-scale wave flume experiment has been carried out involving a T = 4 s regular wave with H = 0.85 m wave height plunging over a fixed barred beach profile. Velocity profiles were measured at 12 locations along the breaker bar using LDA and ADV. A strong undertow is generated reaching magnitudes of 0.8 m/s on the shoreward side of the breaker bar. A circulation pattern occurs between the breaking area and the inner surf zone. Time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) is largest in the breaking area on the shoreward side of the bar where the plunging jet penetrates the water column. At this location, and on the bar crest, TKE generated at the water surface in the breaking process reaches the bottom boundary layer. In the breaking area, TKE does not reduce to zero within a wave cycle which leads to a high level of "residual" turbulence and therefore lower temporal variation in TKE compared to previous studies of breaking waves on plane beach slopes. It is argued that this residual turbulence results from the breaker bar-trough geometry, which enables larger length scales and time scales of breaking-generated vortices and which enhances turbulence production within the water column compared to plane beaches. Transport of TKE is dominated by the undertow-related flux, whereas the wave-related and turbulent fluxes are approximately an order of magnitude smaller. Turbulence production and dissipation are largest in the breaker zone and of similar magnitude, but in the shoaling zone and inner surf zone production is negligible and dissipation dominates.

Wave-induced stress and breaking of sea ice in a coupled hydrodynamic discrete-element wave-ice model

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Herman, Agnieszka

2017-11-01

In this paper, a coupled sea ice-wave model is developed and used to analyze wave-induced stress and breaking in sea ice for a range of wave and ice conditions. The sea ice module is a discrete-element bonded-particle model, in which ice is represented as cuboid grains floating on the water surface that can be connected to their neighbors by elastic joints. The joints may break if instantaneous stresses acting on them exceed their strength. The wave module is based on an open-source version of the Non-Hydrostatic WAVE model (NHWAVE). The two modules are coupled with proper boundary conditions for pressure and velocity, exchanged at every wave model time step. In the present version, the model operates in two dimensions (one vertical and one horizontal) and is suitable for simulating compact ice in which heave and pitch motion dominates over surge. In a series of simulations with varying sea ice properties and incoming wavelength it is shown that wave-induced stress reaches maximum values at a certain distance from the ice edge. The value of maximum stress depends on both ice properties and characteristics of incoming waves, but, crucially for ice breaking, the location at which the maximum occurs does not change with the incoming wavelength. Consequently, both regular and random (Jonswap spectrum) waves break the ice into floes with almost identical sizes. The width of the zone of broken ice depends on ice strength and wave attenuation rates in the ice.

Numerical Simulation of a Seaway with Breaking

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Dommermuth, Douglas; O'Shea, Thomas; Brucker, Kyle; Wyatt, Donald

2012-11-01

The focus of this presentation is to describe the recent efforts to simulate a fully non-linear seaway with breaking by using a high-order spectral (HOS) solution of the free-surface boundary value problem to drive a three-dimensional Volume of Fluid (VOF) solution. Historically, the two main types of simulations to simulate free-surface flows are the boundary integral equations method (BIEM) and high-order spectral (HOS) methods. BIEM calculations fail at the point at which the surface impacts upon itself, if not sooner, and HOS methods can only simulate a single valued free-surface. Both also employ a single-phase approximation in which the effects of the air on the water are neglected. Due to these limitations they are unable to simulate breaking waves and air entrainment. The Volume of Fluid (VOF) method on the other hand is suitable for modeling breaking waves and air entrainment. However it is computationally intractable to generate a realistic non-linear sea-state. Here, we use the HOS solution to quickly drive, or nudge, the VOF solution into a non-linear state. The computational strategies, mathematical formulation, and numerical implementation will be discussed. The results of the VOF simulation of a seaway with breaking will also be presented, and compared to the single phase, single valued HOS results.

A numerical investigation of wave-breaking-induced turbulent coherent structure under a solitary wave

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zhou, Zheyu; Sangermano, Jacob; Hsu, Tian-Jian; Ting, Francis C. K.

2014-10-01

To better understand the effect of wave-breaking-induced turbulence on the bed, we report a 3-D large-eddy simulation (LES) study of a breaking solitary wave in spilling condition. Using a turbulence-resolving approach, we study the generation and the fate of wave-breaking-induced turbulent coherent structures, commonly known as obliquely descending eddies (ODEs). Specifically, we focus on how these eddies may impinge onto bed. The numerical model is implemented using an open-source CFD library of solvers, called OpenFOAM, where the incompressible 3-D filtered Navier-Stokes equations for the water and the air phases are solved with a finite volume scheme. The evolution of the water-air interfaces is approximated with a volume of fluid method. Using the dynamic Smagorinsky closure, the numerical model has been validated with wave flume experiments of solitary wave breaking over a 1/50 sloping beach. Simulation results show that during the initial overturning of the breaking wave, 2-D horizontal rollers are generated, accelerated, and further evolve into a couple of 3-D hairpin vortices. Some of these vortices are sufficiently intense to impinge onto the bed. These hairpin vortices possess counter-rotating and downburst features, which are key characteristics of ODEs observed by earlier laboratory studies using Particle Image Velocimetry. Model results also suggest that those ODEs that impinge onto bed can induce strong near-bed turbulence and bottom stress. The intensity and locations of these near-bed turbulent events could not be parameterized by near-surface (or depth integrated) turbulence unless in very shallow depth.

An algorithm for modeling entrainment and naturally and chemically dispersed oil droplet size distribution under surface breaking wave conditions.

PubMed

Li, Zhengkai; Spaulding, Malcolm L; French-McCay, Deborah

2017-06-15

A surface oil entrainment model and droplet size model have been developed to estimate the flux of oil under surface breaking waves. Both equations are expressed in dimensionless Weber number (We) and Ohnesorge number (Oh, which explicitly accounts for the oil viscosity, density, and oil-water interfacial tension). Data from controlled lab studies, large-scale wave tank tests, and field observations have been used to calibrate the constants of the two independent equations. Predictions using the new algorithm compared well with the observed amount of oil removed from the surface and the sizes of the oil droplets entrained in the water column. Simulations with the new algorithm, implemented in a comprehensive spill model, show that entrainment rates increase more rapidly with wind speed than previously predicted based on the existing Delvigne and Sweeney's (1988) model, and a quasi-stable droplet size distribution (d<~50μm) is developed in the near surface water. Copyright © 2017 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

A case study of the energy dissipation of the gravity wave field based on satellite altimeter measurements

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Huang, N. E.; Parsons, C. L.; Long, S. R.; Bliven, L. F.

1983-01-01

Wave breaking is proposed as the primary energy dissipation mechanism for the gravity wave field. The energy dissipation rate is calculated based on the statistical model proposed by Longuet-Higgins (1969) with a modification of the breaking criterion incorporating the surface stress according to Phillips and Banner (1974). From this modified model, an analytic expression is found for the wave attenuation rate and the half-life time of the wave field which depend only on the significant slope of the wave field and the ratio of friction velocity to initial wave phase velocity. These expressions explain why the freshly generated wave field does not last long, but why swells are capable of propagating long distances without substantial change in energy density. It is shown that breaking is many orders of magnitude more effective in dissipating wave energy than the molecular viscosity, if the significant slope is higher than 0.01. Limited observational data from satellite and laboratory are used to compare with the analytic results, and show good agreement.

Surfing surface gravity waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Pizzo, Nick

2017-11-01

A simple criterion for water particles to surf an underlying surface gravity wave is presented. It is found that particles travelling near the phase speed of the wave, in a geometrically confined region on the forward face of the crest, increase in speed. The criterion is derived using the equation of John (Commun. Pure Appl. Maths, vol. 6, 1953, pp. 497-503) for the motion of a zero-stress free surface under the action of gravity. As an example, a breaking water wave is theoretically and numerically examined. Implications for upper-ocean processes, for both shallow- and deep-water waves, are discussed.

Infragravity wave generation and dynamics over a mild slope beach : Experiments and numerical computations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Cienfuegos, R.; Duarte, L.; Hernandez, E.

2008-12-01

Charasteristic frequencies of gravity waves generated by wind and propagating towards the coast are usually comprised between 0.05Hz and 1Hz. Nevertheless, lower frequecy waves, in the range of 0.001Hz and 0.05Hz, have been observed in the nearshore zone. Those long waves, termed as infragravity waves, are generated by complex nonlinear mechanisms affecting the propagation of irregular waves up to the coast. The groupiness of an incident random wave field may be responsible for producing a slow modulation of the mean water surface thus generating bound long waves travelling at the group speed. Similarly, a quasi- periodic oscillation of the break-point location, will be accompained by a slow modulation of set-up/set-down in the surf zone and generation and release of long waves. If the primary structure of the carrying incident gravity waves is destroyed (e.g. by breaking), forced long waves can be freely released and even reflected at the coast. Infragravity waves can affect port operation through resonating conditions, or strongly affect sediment transport and beach morphodynamics. In the present study we investigate infragravity wave generation mechanisms both, from experiments and numerical computations. Measurements were conducted at the 70-meter long wave tank, located at the Instituto Nacional de Hidraulica (Chile), prepared with a beach of very mild slope of 1/80 in order to produce large surf zone extensions. A random JONSWAP type wave field (h0=0.52m, fp=0.25Hz, Hmo=0.17m) was generated by a piston wave-maker and measurements of the free surface displacements were performed all over its length at high spatial resolution (0.2m to 1m). Velocity profiles were also measured at four verticals inside the surf zone using an ADV. Correlation maps of wave group envelopes and infragravity waves are computed in order to identify long wave generation and dynamics in the experimental set-up. It appears that both mechanisms (groupiness and break-point oscillation) are clearly present in this experiment while spectral analysis evidences the reorganization of energy density from the original narrow spectrum into the infragravity band. This experiment provides an opportunity to test numerical models that would in principle be able to reproduce infragravity wave generation and dynamics. We compare numerical results (free surface and velocities) produced by a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model including breaking and runup to the experimental data and show that the complex infragravity wave dynamics is adequately reproduced by the model.

The Record Los Angeles Heat Event of September 2010: 1. Synoptic-Scale-Meso-β-Scale Analyses of Interactive Planetary Wave Breaking, Terrain- and Coastal-Induced Circulations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kaplan, Michael L.; Tilley, Jeffrey S.; Hatchett, Benjamin J.; Smith, Craig M.; Walston, Joshua M.; Shourd, Kacie N.; Lewis, John M.

2017-10-01

On 27 September 2010 the Los Angeles Civic Center reached its all-time record maximum temperature of 45°C before 1330 local daylight time with several other regional stations observing all-time record breaking heat early in that afternoon. This record event is associated with a general circulation pattern predisposed to hemispheric wave breaking. Three days before the event, wave breaking organizes complex terrain- and coastal-induced processes that lead to isentropic surface folding into the Los Angeles Basin. The first wave break occurs over the western two thirds of North America leading to trough elongation across the southwestern U.S. Collocated with this trough is an isentropic potential vorticity filament that is the locus of a thermally indirect circulation central to warming and associated thickness increases and ridging westward across the Great Basin. In response to this circulation, two subsynoptic wave breaks are triggered along the Pacific coast. The isentropic potential vorticity filament is coupled to the breaking waves and the interaction produces a subsynoptic low-pressure center and a deep vortex aloft over the southeastern California desert. This coupling leads to advection of an elevated mixed layer over Point Conception the night before the record-breaking heat that creates a coastally trapped low-pressure area southwest of Los Angeles. The two low-pressure centers create a low-level pressure gradient and east-southeasterly jet directed offshore over the Los Angeles Basin by sunrise on 27 September. This allows the advection of low-level warm air from the inland terrain toward the coastally trapped disturbance and descending circulation resulting in record heating.

An Eulerian two-phase flow model for sediment transport under realistic surface waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hsu, T. J.; Kim, Y.; Cheng, Z.; Chauchat, J.

2017-12-01

Wave-driven sediment transport is of major importance in driving beach morphology. However, the complex mechanisms associated with unsteadiness, free-surface effects, and wave-breaking turbulence have not been fully understood. Particularly, most existing models for sediment transport adopt bottom boundary layer approximation that mimics the flow condition in oscillating water tunnel (U-tube). However, it is well-known that there are key differences in sediment transport when comparing to large wave flume datasets, although the number of wave flume experiments are relatively limited regardless of its importance. Thus, a numerical model which can resolve the entire water column from the bottom boundary layer to the free surface can be a powerful tool. This study reports an on-going effort to better understand and quantify sediment transport under shoaling and breaking surface waves through the creation of open-source numerical models in the OpenFOAM framework. An Eulerian two-phase flow model, SedFoam (Cheng et al., 2017, Coastal Eng.) is fully coupled with a volume-of-fluid solver, interFoam/waves2Foam (Jacobsen et al., 2011, Int. J. Num. Fluid). The fully coupled model, named SedWaveFoam, regards the air and water phases as two immiscible fluids with the interfaces evolution resolved, and the sediment particles as dispersed phase. We carried out model-data comparisons with the large wave flume sheet flow data for nonbreaking waves reported by Dohmen-Janssen and Hanes (2002, J. Geophysical Res.) and good agreements were obtained for sediment concentration and net transport rate. By further simulating a case without free-surface (mimic U-tube condition), the effects of free-surface, most notably the boundary layer streaming effect on total transport, can be quantified.

Multiple focused EMAT designs for improved surface breaking defect characterization

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Thring, C. B.; Fan, Y.; Edwards, R. S.

2017-02-01

Ultrasonic Rayleigh waves can be employed for the detection of surface breaking defects such as rolling contact fatigue and stress corrosion cracking. Electromagnetic Acoustic Transducers (EMATs) are well suited to this technique as they can directly generate Rayleigh waves within the sample without the requirement for wedges, and they are robust and inexpensive compared to laser ultrasonics. Three different EMAT coil types have been developed, and these are compared to assess their ability to detect and characterize small (down to 0.5 mm depth, 1 mm diameter) surface breaking defects in aluminium. These designs are: a pair of linear meander coils used in a pseudo-pulse-echo mode, a pair of focused meander coils also used in pseudo-pulse-echo mode, and a pair of focused racetrack coils used in pitch-catch mode. The linear meander coils are able to detect most of the defects tested, but have a much lower signal to noise ratio and give limited sizing information. The focused meander coils and the focused racetrack coils can detect all defects tested, but have the advantage that they can also characterize the defect sizes on the sample surface, and have a stronger sensitivity at their focal point. Measurements using all three EMAT designs are presented and compared for high resolution imaging of surface-breaking defects.

Deep Orographic Gravity Wave Dynamics over Subantarctic Islands as Observed and Modeled during the Deep Propagating Gravity Wave Experiment (DEEPWAVE)

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Eckermann, S. D.; Broutman, D.; Ma, J.; Doyle, J. D.; Pautet, P. D.; Taylor, M. J.; Bossert, K.; Williams, B. P.; Fritts, D. C.; Smith, R. B.; Kuhl, D.; Hoppel, K.; McCormack, J. P.; Ruston, B. C.; Baker, N. L.; Viner, K.; Whitcomb, T.; Hogan, T. F.; Peng, M.

2016-12-01

The Deep Propagating Gravity Wave Experiment (DEEPWAVE) was an international aircraft-based field program to observe and study the end-to-end dynamics of atmospheric gravity waves from 0-100 km altitude and the effects on atmospheric circulations. On 14 July 2014, aircraft remote-sensing instruments detected large-amplitude gravity-wave oscillations within mesospheric airglow and sodium layers downstream of the Auckland Islands, located 1000 km south of Christchurch, New Zealand. A high-altitude reanalysis and a three-dimensional Fourier gravity wave model are used to investigate the dynamics of this event from the surface to the mesosphere. At 0700 UTC when first observations were made, surface flow across the islands' terrain generated linear three-dimensional wavefields that propagated rapidly to ˜78 km altitude, where intense breaking occurred in a narrow layer beneath a zero-wind region at ˜83 km altitude. In the following hours, the altitude of weak winds descended under the influence of a large-amplitude migrating semidiurnal tide, leading to intense breaking of these wavefields in subsequent observations starting at 1000 UTC. The linear Fourier model constrained by upstream reanalysis reproduces the salient aspects of observed wavefields, including horizontal wavelengths, phase orientations, temperature and vertical displacement amplitudes, heights and locations of incipient wave breaking, and momentum fluxes. Wave breaking has huge effects on local circulations, with inferred layer-averaged westward mean-flow accelerations of ˜350 m s-1 hour-1 and dynamical heating rates of ˜8 K hour-1, supporting recent speculation of important impacts of orographic gravity waves from subantarctic islands on the mean circulation and climate of the middle atmosphere during austral winter. We also study deep orographic gravity waves from islands during DEEPWAVE more widely using observations from the Atmospheric Infrared Sounder (AIRS) and high-resolution high-altitude numerical weather prediction models.

The Fate and Impact of Internal Waves in Nearshore Ecosystems

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Woodson, C. B.

2018-01-01

Internal waves are widespread features of global oceans that play critical roles in mixing and thermohaline circulation. Similarly to surface waves, internal waves can travel long distances, ultimately breaking along continental margins. These breaking waves can transport deep ocean water and associated constituents (nutrients, larvae, and acidic low-oxygen waters) onto the shelf and locally enhance turbulence and mixing, with important effects on nearshore ecosystems. We are only beginning to understand the role internal waves play in shaping nearshore ecosystems. Here, I review the physics of internal waves in shallow waters and identify two commonalities among internal waves in the nearshore: exposure to deep offshore waters and enhanced turbulence and mixing. I relate these phenomena to important ecosystem processes ranging from extreme events to fertilization success to draw general conclusions about the influence of internal waves on ecosystems and the effects of internal waves in a changing climate.

The Fate and Impact of Internal Waves in Nearshore Ecosystems.

PubMed

Woodson, C B

2018-01-03

Internal waves are widespread features of global oceans that play critical roles in mixing and thermohaline circulation. Similarly to surface waves, internal waves can travel long distances, ultimately breaking along continental margins. These breaking waves can transport deep ocean water and associated constituents (nutrients, larvae, and acidic low-oxygen waters) onto the shelf and locally enhance turbulence and mixing, with important effects on nearshore ecosystems. We are only beginning to understand the role internal waves play in shaping nearshore ecosystems. Here, I review the physics of internal waves in shallow waters and identify two commonalities among internal waves in the nearshore: exposure to deep offshore waters and enhanced turbulence and mixing. I relate these phenomena to important ecosystem processes ranging from extreme events to fertilization success to draw general conclusions about the influence of internal waves on ecosystems and the effects of internal waves in a changing climate.

Wave-Breaking Turbulence in the Ocean Surface Layer

DTIC Science & Technology

2016-06-01

bubbles may be important, both to the process of energy dissipation and to the quality of acoustic Doppler data, especially during rough conditions...energy beneath a breaking wave. For the roughest conditions in this dataset (20ms21 winds), bubbles and ‘‘spindrift’’ (spraying foam ) may become...to occur at the upper end of this dataset (U10 5 20ms 21). The pulse-coherent acoustic Doppler methods used on board the SWIFTs are not capable of

Observations of Surfzone Albedo

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Sinnett, G.; Feddersen, F.

2014-12-01

The surfzone environment (where waves break) contains several unique and previously unconsidered processes that affect the heat budget. Entering short-wave radiation is a dominant term in both shelf and surfzone heat budgets. In contrast to the shelf, however, depth limited wave breaking in the surfzone generates spray, whitewater and suspended sediments, elevating the surface albedo (ratio of reflected to incident short-wave radiation). Elevated albedo reduces the level of solar short-wave radiation entering the water, potentially resulting in less heating. Additionally, surfzone water quality is often impacted by fecal bacteria contamination. As bacteria mortality is related to short-wave solar radiation, elevated surfzone albedo could reduce pathogen mortality, impacting human health. Albedo in the open ocean has been frequently studied and parameterizations often consider solar zenith angle, wind speed and ocean chlorophyll concentration, producing albedo values typically near 0.06. However, surfzone albedo observations have been extremely sparse, yet show depth limited wave breaking may increase the albedo by nearly a factor of 10 up to 0.5. Here, we present findings from a field study at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography pier to observe the affect of waves on surfzone albedo. Concurrent measurements were taken with a four-way radiometer (to measure both downwelling and upwelling short-wave and long wave radiation) mounted above the surfzone. A co-located GoPro camera was used to relate visual aspects of the surfzone to measured reflectance, and wave height and period were observed with a bottom mounted pressure sensor in 5 m water depth just outside the surfzone. Wind speed and direction were observed on the pier 10 m above the water surface. Here, we will examine the surfzone albedo dependence on surfzone parameters, such as wave height.

Remote sensing signatures of oceanic whitecap at different wavelengths

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Anguelova, M. D.; Dowgiallo, D. J.; Smith, G. B.; Means, S. L.; Savelyev, I.; Frick, G. M.; Snow, C. M.; Schindall, J. A.; Bobak, J. P.

2012-12-01

Oceanic whitecaps are the most direct surface expression of breaking wind waves in the ocean. Whitecap fraction quantifies the breaking events and is thus a suitable forcing variable for parameterizing and predicting various air-sea interaction processes. To this end, we have compiled a database of whitecap fraction W from satellites-borne microwave radiometric observations. These observations provide the total W including foam generated during active breaking of wind-driven waves and residual foam left behind by these breaking waves. However, the whitecap fraction associated with the actively breaking waves WA is needed for dynamic air-sea processes in the upper ocean such as turbulent mixing, gas exchange, ocean ambient noise, and spray-mediated intensification of tropical storms. To parameterize such processes, a database of WA separate from W is needed. We pursue this separation of WA from W by combining the Phillips concept of breaking wave statistics which connects WA with the energy dissipation rate of breaking waves and parametric estimates of energy dissipation from wave spectra measured from buoys. We seek additional physical understanding of, and experimental support for, this separation with a multi-instrumental field campaign. The instrumentation deployed includes a suite of sensors recording the whitecaps and breaking waves on the surface over wide range of the electromagnetic spectrum: visible (video cameras), infrared (IR camera), and microwave (radiometers at two frequencies, 10 GHz and 37 GHz). An acoustic array with three nested-aperture array at frequencies up to 2.4 kHz and aerosol/particle counter provide data for the bubbles generated beneath and sea spray produced above the whitecaps. We also deployed a transmitter horn to collect data useful to asses Radio Frequency Interference (RFI), which affects the collection and accuracy of satellite-based data. Various auxiliary data such as wind speed, air temperature, humidity, wave field, and water temperature profile characterize the experimental conditions. The goal of this field campaign is to provide experimental data for determining WA and W independently from the Phillips concept for energy dissipation. In these measurements, we rely on the good separation between WA and W in the IR region of the electromagnetic spectrum. We use the IR data to identify a separation criterion which then can be applied to time series of microwave and acoustic data. Obtaining WA via this separation criterion and comparing the results with those from the Phillips concept, we will have additional possibility to constrain WA obtained using energy dissipation. The measurements are made in April-May, 2012, on the Floating Instrument Platform (FLIP) drifting along the coast of California from Monterey Bay south toward Point Conception. We describe the experiment, characterize the study site, and present first data collected during this campaign.

Charge and current orders in the spin-fermion model with overlapping hot spots

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Volkov, Pavel A.; Efetov, Konstantin B.

2018-04-01

Experiments carried over the last years on the underdoped cuprates have revealed a variety of symmetry-breaking phenomena in the pseudogap state. Charge-density waves, breaking of C4 rotational symmetry as well as time-reversal symmetry breaking have all been observed in several cuprate families. In this regard, theoretical models where multiple nonsuperconducting orders emerge are of particular interest. We consider the recently introduced [Volkov and Efetov, Phys. Rev. B 93, 085131 (2016), 10.1103/PhysRevB.93.085131] spin-fermion model with overlapping `hot spots' on the Fermi surface. Focusing on the particle-hole instabilities we obtain a rich phase diagram with the chemical potential relative to the dispersion at (0 ,π );(π ,0 ) and the Fermi surface curvature in the antinodal regions being the control parameters. We find evidence for d-wave Pomeranchuk instability, d-form factor charge density waves, as well as commensurate and incommensurate staggered bond current phases similar to the d-density wave state. The current orders are found to be promoted by the curvature. Considering the appropriate parameter range for the hole-doped cuprates, we discuss the relation of our results to the pseudogap state and incommensurate magnetic phases of the cuprates.

Size distribution of oceanic air bubbles entrained in sea-water by wave-breaking

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Resch, F.; Avellan, F.

1982-01-01

The size of oceanic air bubbles produced by whitecaps and wave-breaking is determined. The production of liquid aerosols at the sea surface is predicted. These liquid aerosols are at the origin of most of the particulate materials exchanged between the ocean and the atmosphere. A prototype was designed and built using an optical technique based on the principle of light scattering at an angle of ninety degrees from the incident light beam. The output voltage is a direct function of the bubble diameter. Calibration of the probe was carried out within a range of 300 microns to 1.2 mm. Bubbles produced by wave-breaking in a large air-sea interaction simulating facility. Experimental results are given in the form of size spectrum.

Experimental observation of standing interfacial waves induced by surface waves in muddy water

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Maxeiner, Eric; Dalrymple, Robert A.

2011-09-01

A striking feature has been observed in a laboratory wave tank with a thin layer of clear water overlying a layer of mud. A piston-type wave maker is used to generate long monochromatic surface waves in a tank with a layer of kaolinite clay at the bottom. The wave action on the mud causes the clay particles to rise from the bottom into the water column, forming a lutocline. As the lutocline approaches the water surface, a set of standing interfacial waves form on the lutocline. The interfacial wave directions are oriented nearly orthogonal to the surface wave direction. The interfacial waves, which sometimes cover the entire length and width of the tank, are also temporally subharmonic as the phase of the interfacial wave alternates with each passing surface wave crest. These interfacial waves are the result of a resonant three-wave interaction involving the surface wave train and the two interfacial wave trains. The interfacial waves are only present when the lutocline is about 3 cm of the water surface and they can be sufficiently nonlinear as to exhibit superharmonics and a breaking-type of instability.

The local properties of ocean surface waves by the phase-time method

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Huang, Norden E.; Long, Steven R.; Tung, Chi-Chao; Donelan, Mark A.; Yuan, Yeli; Lai, Ronald J.

1992-01-01

A new approach using phase information to view and study the properties of frequency modulation, wave group structures, and wave breaking is presented. The method is applied to ocean wave time series data and a new type of wave group (containing the large 'rogue' waves) is identified. The method also has the capability of broad applications in the analysis of time series data in general.

Dependence of Wave-Breaking Statistics on Wind Stress and Wave Development

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Katsaros, Kristina B.; Atakturk, Serhad S.

1992-01-01

Incidence of wave breaking for pure wind driven waves has been studied on Lake Washington at wind speeds up to 8 m/s. Video recordings were employed to identify and categorize the breaking events in terms of micro-scale, spilling and plunging breakers. These events were correlated with the magnitude of the wave spectrum measured with a resistance wire wave gauge and band pass filtered between 6 and 10 Hz. An equivalent percentage of breaking crests were found for spilling and plunging events. Wave forcing as measured by wind stress (or friction velocity, u(sub *), squared) and by inverse wave age, u(sub *)/Cp where Cp is the phase velocity of the waves at the peak of the frequency spectrum, were found to be good prerictors of percentage of breaking crests. When combined in a two parameter regression, those two variables gave small standard deviation and had a high correlation coefficient (66 percent). The combination of u(sub *)(exp 2) and u(sub *)/Cp can be understood in physical terms. Furthermore, for the larger values of u(sub *)(exp 2) the dependence of wave braking and wave age was stronger than at the low end of the values u(sub *)(exp 2) and u(sub *)/Cp. Thus, both the level of wave development as determined by inverse wave age, which we may term relative wind effectiveness for wave forcing and the wind forcing on the water surface determine the incidence of wave breaking. Substituting U(sub 10)(sup 3.75) (which is the dependence of whitecap cover found by Monahan and coworkers) an equivalent correlation was found to the prediction by u(sub *)(exp 2). Slightly better standard deviation value and higher correlation coefficient were found by using a Reynolds number as predictor. A two-parameter regression involving u(sub *)(exp 2) and a Reynold's number proposed by Toba and his colleagues which relates u(sub *)(exp 2) and peak wave frequency, improves the correlation even more but is less easy to interpret in physical terms. The equivalent percentage of breaking crests obtained in our previous study was reported at 8.6 percent for a short record obtained at U(sub 10N) of about 6 m/s. Typical values in the current study for similar conditions are 6 percent, which is consistent with the previous study in view of the scatter. In that study we did not have a video recording system, so the observed breaking may include more of the micro-scaic breaking events, and the value, 8.6 percent, is well within the range of highly probable sampling variability.

Scattering of ultrasonic wave by cracks in a plate

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Liu, S. W.; Datta, S. K.

1993-01-01

A hybrid numerical method combining finite elements and the boundary integral representation is used to investigate the transient scattering of ultrasonic waves by a crack in a plate. The incident wave models the guided waves generated by a steel ball impact on the plate. Two surface-breaking cracks and one subsurface crack are studied here. The results show that the location and depth of cracks have measurable effects on the surface responses in time and frequency domains. Also, the scattered fields have distinct differences in the three cases.

ONR Ocean Wave Dynamics Workshop

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

In anticipation of the start (in Fiscal Year 1988) of a new Office of Naval Research (ONR) Accelerated Research Initiative (ARI) on Ocean Surface Wave Dynamics, a workshop was held August 5-7, 1986, at Woods Hole, Mass., to discuss new ideas and directions of research. This new ARI on Ocean Surface Wave Dynamics is a 5-year effort that is organized by the ONR Physical Oceanography Program in cooperation with the ONR Fluid Mechanics Program and the Physical Oceanography Branch at the Naval Ocean Research and Development Activity (NORDA). The central theme is improvement of our understanding of the basic physics and dynamics of surface wave phenomena, with emphasis on the following areas: precise air-sea coupling mechanisms,dynamics of nonlinear wave-wave interaction under realistic environmental conditions,wave breaking and dissipation of energy,interaction between surface waves and upper ocean boundary layer dynamics, andsurface statistical and boundary layer coherent structures.

Fully three-dimensional direct numerical simulation of a plunging breaker

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lubin, Pierre; Vincent, Stéphane; Caltagirone, Jean-Paul; Abadie, Stéphane

2003-07-01

The scope of this paper is to show the results obtained for simulating three-dimensional breaking waves by solving the Navier-Stokes equations in air and water. The interface tracking is achieved by a Lax-Wendroff TVD scheme (Total Variation Diminishing), which is able to handle interface reconnections. We first present the equations and the numerical methods used in this work. We then proceed to the study of a three-dimensional plunging breaking wave, using initial conditions corresponding to unstable periodic sinusoidal waves of large amplitudes. We compare the results obtained for two simulations, a longshore depth perturbation has been introduced in the solution of the flow equations in order to see the transition from a two-dimensional velocity field to a fully three-dimensional one after plunging. Breaking processes including overturning, splash-up and breaking induced vortex-like motion beneath the surface are presented and discussed. To cite this article: P. Lubin et al., C. R. Mecanique 331 (2003).

A Coupled Model of Langmuir Circulations and Ramp-like Structures in the Upper Ocean Turbulent Boundary Layer

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Soloviev, A.; Dean, C.; Lukas, R.; Donelan, M. A.; Terray, E. A.

2016-12-01

Surface-wave breaking is a powerful mechanism producing significant energy flux to small scale turbulence. Most of the turbulent energy produced by breaking waves dissipates within one significant wave height, while the turbulent diffusion layer extends to approximately ten significant wave heights. Notably, the near-surface shear may practically vanish within the wave-stirred layer due to small-scale turbulent mixing. The surface ocean temperature-salinity structure, circulation, and mass exchanges (including greenhouse gases and pollutants) substantially depend on turbulent mixing and non-local transport in the near-surface layer of the ocean. Spatially coherent organized motions have been recognized as an important part of non-local transport. Langmuir circulation (LC) and ramp-like structures are believed to vertically transfer an appreciable portion of the momentum, heat, gases, pollutants (e.g., oil), and other substances in the upper layer of the ocean. Free surface significantly complicates the analysis of turbulent exchanges at the air-sea interface and the coherent structures are not yet completely understood. In particular, there is growing observational evidence that in the case of developing seas when the wind direction may not coincide with the direction of the energy containing waves, the Langmuir lines are oriented in the wind rather than the wave direction. In addition, the vortex force due to Stokes drift in traditional models is altered in the breaking-wave-stirred layer. Another complication is that the ramp-like structures in the upper ocean turbulent boundary layer have axes perpendicular to the axes of LC. The ramp-like structures are not considered in the traditional model. We have developed a new model, which treats the LC and ramp-like structures in the near-surface layer of the ocean as a coupled system. Using computational fluid dynamics tools (LES), we have been able to reproduce both LC and ramp-like structures coexisting in space though intermittent in time. In the model, helicity isosurfaces appear to be tilted and, in general, coordinated with the tilted velocity isosurfaces produced by ramp-like structures. This is an indication of coupling between the LC and ramp-like structures. Remarkably, the new model is able to explain observations of LC under developing seas.

Integrated modeling of the dynamic meteorological and sea surface conditions during the passage of Typhoon Morakot

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lee, Han Soo; Yamashita, Takao; Hsu, John R.-C.; Ding, Fei

2013-01-01

In August 2009, Typhoon Morakot caused massive flooding and devastating mudslides in the southern Taiwan triggered by extremely heavy rainfall (2777 mm in 4 days) which occurred during its passage. It was one of the deadliest typhoons that have ever attacked Taiwan in recent years. In this study, numerical simulations are performed for the storm surge and ocean surface waves, together with dynamic meteorological fields such as wind, pressure and precipitation induced by Typhoon Morakot, using an atmosphere-waves-ocean integrated modelling system. The wave-induced dissipation stress from breaking waves, whitecapping and depth-induced wave breaking, is parameterized and included in the wave-current interaction process, in addition to its influence on the storm surge level in shallow water along the coast of Taiwan. The simulated wind and pressure field captures the characteristics of the observed meteorological field. The spatial distribution of the accumulated rainfall within 4 days, from 00:00 UTC 6 August to 00:00 UTC 10 August 2009, shows similar patterns as the observed values. The 4-day accumulated rainfall of 2777 mm at the A-Li Shan mountain weather station for the same period depicted a high correlation with the observed value of 2780 mm/4 days. The effects of wave-induced dissipation stress in the wave-current interaction resulted in increased surge heights on the relatively shallow western coast of Taiwan, where the bottom slope of the bathymetry ranges from mild to moderate. The results also show that wave-breaking has to be considered for accurate storm surge prediction along the east coast of Taiwan over the narrow bank of surf zone with a high horizontal resolution of the model domain.

Impact of plunging breaking waves on a partially submerged cube

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wang, A.; Ikeda, C.; Duncan, J. H.

2013-11-01

The impact of a deep-water plunging breaking wave on a partially submerged cube is studied experimentally in a tank that is 14.8 m long and 1.2 m wide with a water depth of 0.91 m. The breakers are created from dispersively focused wave packets generated by a programmable wave maker. The water surface profile in the vertical center plane of the cube is measured using a cinematic laser-induced fluorescence technique with movie frame rates ranging from 300 to 4,500 Hz. The pressure distribution on the front face of the cube is measured with 24 fast-response sensors simultaneously with the wave profile measurements. The cube is positioned vertically at three heights relative to the mean water level and horizontally at a distance from the wave maker where a strong vertical water jet is formed. The portion of the water surface between the contact point on the front face of the cube and the wave crest is fitted with a circular arc and the radius and vertical position of the fitted circle is tracked during the impact. The vertical acceleration of the contact point reaches more than 50 times the acceleration of gravity and the pressure distribution just below the free surface shows a localized high-pressure region with a very high vertical pressure gradient. This work is supported by the Office of Naval Research under grant N000141110095.

Ocean Surface Wave Optical Roughness - Innovative Measurement and Modeling

DTIC Science & Technology

2008-01-01

and microscale breaker crest length spectral density (e.g. Jessup and Phadnis , 2005) have been reported. 1 Report Documentation Page Form...297. Jessup, A.T. and Phadnis , K.R. 2005 Measurement of the geometric and kinematic properties of microsacle breaking waves from infrared imagery

Ocean Surface Wave Optical Roughness - Innovative Measurement and Modeling

DTIC Science & Technology

2008-01-01

and microscale breaker crest length spectral density (e.g. Jessup and Phadnis , 2005) have been reported. 1 Report Documentation Page Form...297. Jessup , A.T. and Phadnis , K.R. 2005 Measurement of the geometric and kinematic properties of microsacle breaking waves from infrared imagery

Gravity waves in Titan's atmosphere

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Friedson, A. James

1994-01-01

Scintillations (high frequency variations) observed in the radio signal during the occultation of Voyager 1 by Titan (Hinson and Tyler, 1983) provide information concerning neutral atmospheric density fluctuations on scales on hundreds of meters to a few kilometers. Those seen at altitudes higher than 25 km above the surface were interpreted by Hinson and Tyler as being caused by linear, freely propagating (energy-conserving) gravity waves, but this interpretation was found to be inconsistent with the scintillation data below the 25-km altitude level. Here an attempt is made to interpret the entire scintillation profile between the surface and the 90-km altitude level in terms of gravity waves generated at the surface. Numerical calculations of the density fluctuations caused by two-dimensional, nonhydrostatic, finite-amplitude gravity waves propagating vertically through Titan's atmosphere are performed to produce synthetic scintillation profiles for comparison with the observations. The numerical model accurately treats the effects of wave transience, nonlinearity, and breakdown due to convective instability in the overturned part of the wave. The high-altitude scintillation data were accurately recovered with a freely propagating wave solution, confirming the analytic model of Hinson and Tyler. It is found that the low-altitude scintillation data can be fit by a model where a component of the gravity waves becomes convectively unstable and breaks near the 15 km level. The large-scale structure of the observed scintillation profile in the entire altitude range between 5 and 85 km can be simulated by a model where the freely propagating and breaking waves are forced at the surface simultaneously. Further analysis of the Voyager 1 Titan low-altitude scintillation data, using inversion theory appropriate for strong scattering, could potentially remove some of the ambiguities remaining in this analysis and allow a better determination of the strength and source of the waves.

Wind-Wave Effects on Vertical Mixing in Chesapeake Bay, USA: comparing observations to second-moment closure predictions.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Fisher, A. W.; Sanford, L. P.; Scully, M. E.

2016-12-01

Coherent wave-driven turbulence generated through wave breaking or nonlinear wave-current interactions, e.g. Langmuir turbulence (LT), can significantly enhance the downward transfer of momentum, kinetic energy, and dissolved gases in the oceanic surface layer. There are few observations of these processes in the estuarine or coastal environments, where wind-driven mixing may co-occur with energetic tidal mixing and strong density stratification. This presents a major challenge for evaluating vertical mixing parameterizations used in modeling estuarine and coastal dynamics. We carried out a large, multi-investigator study of wind-driven estuarine dynamics in the middle reaches of Chesapeake Bay, USA, during 2012-2013. The center of the observational array was an instrumented turbulence tower with both atmospheric and marine turbulence sensors as well as rapidly sampled temperature and conductivity sensors. For this paper, we examined the impacts of surface gravity waves on vertical profiles of turbulent mixing and compared our results to second-moment turbulence closure predictions. Wave and turbulence measurements collected from the vertical array of Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs) provided direct estimates of the dominant terms in the TKE budget and the surface wave field. Observed dissipation rates, TKE levels, and turbulent length scales are compared to published scaling relations and used in the calculation of second-moment nonequilibrium stability functions. Results indicate that in the surface layer of the estuary, where elevated dissipation is balanced by vertical divergence in TKE flux, existing nonequilibrium stability functions underpredict observed eddy viscosities. The influences of wave breaking and coherent wave-driven turbulence on modeled and observed stability functions will be discussed further in the context of turbulent length scales, TKE and dissipation profiles, and the depth at which the wave-dominated turbulent transport layer transitions to a turbulent log layer. The influences of fetch-limited wind waves, density stratification, and surface buoyancy fluxes will also be discussed.

Ocean Surface Wave Optical Roughness - Analysis of Innovative Measurements

DTIC Science & Technology

2011-09-30

crest length spectral density (e.g. Jessup and Phadnis , 2005) have been reported. Our effort seeks to provide a more comprehensive description of...Oceanography, 16, 290-297. Jessup, A.T. and Phadnis , K.R. 2005 Measurement of the geometric and kinematic properties of microscale breaking waves

Ocean Surface Wave Optical Roughness - Innovative Measurement and Modeling

DTIC Science & Technology

2006-09-30

length spectral density (eg. Phillips et al, 2001, Gemmrich, 2005) and microscale breaker crest length spectral density (eg. Jessup and Phadnis , 2005...Oceanography, 16, 290-297. Jessup, A.T. & Phadnis , K.R. 2005 Measurement of the geometric and kinematic properties of microsacle breaking waves from

Ocean Surface Wave Optical Roughness - Innovative Measurement and Modeling

DTIC Science & Technology

2010-01-01

Gemmrich et al., 2008) and microscale breaker crest length spectral density (e.g. Jessup and Phadnis , 2005) have been reported. Our effort seeks...and K.R. Phadnis , 2005: Measurement of the geometric and kinematic properties of microsacle breaking waves from infrared imagery using a PIV algorithm

Ocean Surface Wave Optical Roughness - Analysis of Innovative Measurements

DTIC Science & Technology

2013-09-30

Phillips et al., 2001] and microscale breaker crest length spectral density [e.g., Jessup and Phadnis , 2005] have been reported. Our effort seeks...16, 290-297. Jessup, A. T., and K. R. Phadnis (2005), Measurement of the geometric and kinematic properties of microsacle breaking waves from

Ocean Surface Wave Optical Roughness - Innovative Measurement and Modeling

DTIC Science & Technology

2006-09-30

crest length spectral density (eg. Phillips et al, 2001, Gemmrich, 2005) and microscale breaker crest length spectral density (eg. Jessup and Phadnis ...Jessup, A.T. & Phadnis , K.R. 2005 Measurement of the geometric and kinematic properties of microsacle breaking waves from infrared imagery using a

Ocean Surface Wave Optical Roughness: Innovative Polarization Measurement

DTIC Science & Technology

2008-01-01

et al, 2001, Gemmrich et al., 2008) and microscale breaker crest length spectral density (e.g. Jessup and Phadnis , 2005) have been reported...Oceanography, 16, 290-297. Jessup, A.T. and Phadnis , K.R. 2005 Measurement of the geometric and kinematic properties of microsacle breaking waves from

THE MOVEMENT OF OIL UNDER NON-BREAKING WAVES

EPA Science Inventory

The combined effects of wave kinematics, turbulent diffusion, and buoyancy on the transport of oil droplets at sea were investigated in this work using random walk techniques in a Monte Carlo framework. Six hundred oil particles were placed at the water surface and tracked for 5...

The characteristics and dynamics of wave-driven flow across a platform coral reef in the Red Sea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lentz, S. J.; Churchill, J. H.; Davis, K. A.; Farrar, J. T.; Pineda, J.; Starczak, V.

2016-02-01

Current dynamics across a platform reef in the Red Sea near Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, are examined using 18 months of current profile, pressure, surface wave, and wind observations. The platform reef is 700 m long, 200 m across with spatial and temporal variations in water depth over the reef ranging from 0.6 to 1.6 m. Surface waves breaking at the seaward edge of the reef cause a 2-10 cm setup of sea level that drives cross-reef currents of 5-20 cm s-1. Bottom stress is a significant component of the wave setup balance in the surf zone. Over the reef flat, where waves are not breaking, the cross-reef pressure gradient associated with wave setup is balanced by bottom stress. The quadratic drag coefficient for the depth-average flow decreases with increasing water depth from Cda = 0.17 in 0.4 m of water to Cda = 0.03 in 1.2 m of water. The observed dependence of the drag coefficient on water depth is consistent with open-channel flow theory and a hydrodynamic roughness of zo = 0.06 m. A simple one-dimensional model driven by incident surface waves and wind stress accurately reproduces the observed depth-averaged cross-reef currents and a portion of the weaker along-reef currents over the focus reef and two other Red Sea platform reefs. The model indicates the cross-reef current is wave forced and the along-reef current is partially wind forced.

Oceanography and Mine Warfare

DTIC Science & Technology

2000-03-13

of breaking waves , the position and strength of surface currents, and the propagation of the tide into very shallow waters. In the surf zone...6) sediment properties determine shock wave propagation , a method for mine neutralization in the surf zone. 48 OCEANOGRAPHY AND MINE WARFARE...mines will be buried in the sediments, sedimentary explosive shock wave propagation is critical for determining operational performance. Presently, we

Modeling Wind Wave Evolution from Deep to Shallow Water

DTIC Science & Technology

2014-09-30

results are very promising (see Figure 2). However, for the sake of efficiency, non-hydrostatic models assume a single-valued free surface in the...1996) are ongoing. Figure 3 Smoothed-Particle Hydrodynamics ( SPH ) simulations of waves breaking over an artificial reef in the laboratory (see... surface as predicted by the SPH model (see Dalrymple & Rogers, 2006). The agreement in the breaker dynamics predicted by the model and seen in the

Ocean Surface Wave Optical Roughness - Innovative Measurement and Modeling

DTIC Science & Technology

2008-01-01

Gemmrich et al., 2008) and microscale breaker crest length spectral density (e.g. Jessup and Phadnis , 2005) have been reported. Our effort seeks to...1986: Statistics of breaking waves observed as whitecaps in the open sea, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 16, 290-297. Jessup, A.T. and Phadnis

Ocean Surface Wave Optical Roughness - Innovative Measurement and Modeling

DTIC Science & Technology

2008-01-01

e.g. Jessup and Phadnis , 2005) have been reported. Our effort seeks to provide a more comprehensive description of the physical and optical roughness...1986: Statistics of breaking waves observed as whitecaps in the open sea, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 16, 290-297. Jessup, A.T. and Phadnis

Ocean Surface Wave Optical Roughness - Analysis of Innovative Measurements

DTIC Science & Technology

2011-09-30

Phillips et al, 2001, Gemmrich et al., 2008) and microscale breaker crest length spectral density (e.g. Jessup and Phadnis , 2005) have been reported...Statistics of breaking waves observed as whitecaps in the open sea, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 16, 290-297. Jessup, A.T. and Phadnis , K.R

Effects of Sea-Surface Waves and Ocean Spray on Air-Sea Momentum Fluxes

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zhang, Ting; Song, Jinbao

2018-04-01

The effects of sea-surface waves and ocean spray on the marine atmospheric boundary layer (MABL) at different wind speeds and wave ages were investigated. An MABL model was developed that introduces a wave-induced component and spray force to the total surface stress. The theoretical model solution was determined assuming the eddy viscosity coefficient varied linearly with height above the sea surface. The wave-induced component was evaluated using a directional wave spectrum and growth rate. Spray force was described using interactions between ocean-spray droplets and wind-velocity shear. Wind profiles and sea-surface drag coefficients were calculated for low to high wind speeds for wind-generated sea at different wave ages to examine surface-wave and ocean-spray effects on MABL momentum distribution. The theoretical solutions were compared with model solutions neglecting wave-induced stress and/or spray stress. Surface waves strongly affected near-surface wind profiles and sea-surface drag coefficients at low to moderate wind speeds. Drag coefficients and near-surface wind speeds were lower for young than for old waves. At high wind speeds, ocean-spray droplets produced by wind-tearing breaking-wave crests affected the MABL strongly in comparison with surface waves, implying that wave age affects the MABL only negligibly. Low drag coefficients at high wind caused by ocean-spray production increased turbulent stress in the sea-spray generation layer, accelerating near-sea-surface wind. Comparing the analytical drag coefficient values with laboratory measurements and field observations indicated that surface waves and ocean spray significantly affect the MABL at different wind speeds and wave ages.

An experimental study of a plunging liquid jet induced air carryunder and dispersion

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bonetto, F.; Drew, D. A.; Lahey, R. T., Jr.

1993-03-01

A good understanding of the air carryunder and bubble dispersion process associated with a plunging liquid jet is vital if one is to be able to quantify such diverse phenomena as sea surface chemistry, the meteorological significance of breaking ocean waves (e.g., mitigation of the greenhouse effect due to the absorption of CO2 by the oceans), the performance of certain type of chemical reactors, and a number of other important maritime-related applications. The absorption of greenhouse gases into the ocean has been hypothesized to be highly dependent upon the air carryunder that occurs due to breaking waves. This process can be approximated with a plunging liquid jet. Moreover, the air entrainment process due to the breaking bow waves of surface ships may cause long (i.e., up to 5 km in length) wakes. Naturally, easily detectable wakes are undesirable for naval warships. In addition, the air carryunder that occurs at most hydraulic structures in rivers is primarily responsible for the large air/water mass transfer that is associated with these structures. Also, air entrainment plays an important role in the slug flow regime. In particular, the liquid film surrounding a Taylor bubble has a flow in the opposite direction from the Taylor bubble. This liquid film can be thought of as a plunging liquid jet that produces a surface depression in the rear part of the Taylor bubble.

Analysis of bubble plume spacing produced by regular breaking waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Phaksopa, J.; Haller, M. C.

2012-12-01

The breaking wave process in the ocean is a significant mechanism for energy dissipation, splash, and entrainment of air. The relationship between breaking waves and bubble plume characteristics is still a mystery because of the complexity of the breaking wave mechanism. This study takes a unique approach to quantitatively analyze bubble plumes produced by regular breaking waves. Various previous studies have investigated the formation and the characteristics of bubble plumes using either field observations, laboratory experiments, or numerical modeling However, in most observational work the plume characteristics have been studied from the underneath the water surface. In addition, though numerical simulations are able to include much of the important physics, the computational costs are high and bubble plume events are only simulated for short times. Hence, bubble plume evolution and generation throughout the surf zone is not yet computationally feasible. In the present work we take a unique approach to analyzing bubble plumes. These data may be of use for model/data comparisons as numerical simulations become more tractable. The remotely sensed video data from freshwater breaking waves in the OSU Large Wave Flume (Catalan and Haller, 2008) are analyzed. The data set contains six different regular wave conditions and the video intensity data are used to estimate the spacing of plume events (wavenumber spectrum), to calculate the spectral width (i.e. the range of plume spacing), and to relate these with the wave conditions. The video intensity data capture the evolution of the wave passage over a fixed bed arranged in a bar-trough morphology. Bright regions represent the moving path or trajectory coincident with bubble plume of each wave. It also shows the bubble foam were generated and released from wave crest shown in the form of bubble tails with almost regular spacing for each wave. The bubble tails show that most bubbles did not move along with wave. For the estimation of wavenumber spectrum, the density is high at low wavenumber and it decreases toward high wavenumber. The average spectrum bandwidth was estimated and represented as the bubble event spacing for each run. It is found that its magnitude varies with wave conditions range from 8.81 - 11.82 and is related to the waveheight. Additionally, the calculated wavenumbers from power density function vary in the range of 0.80 - 1.58 meters-1. It is found that the bubble wavenumbers are mostly higher than the wavenumbers calculated from the linear wave theory between 0.2L-0.7L. In other words, the bubble plume length does not exceed the progressive wavelength.

Surface Wave Dynamics in the Coastal Zone

DTIC Science & Technology

2014-09-30

also collected from the Duck measurement site, operated by the USACE Field Research Facility at Duck , North Carolina. The collection and validation...similar analysis for 10 storm periods using wave data collected at Duck , North Carolina. The preparations consist of creating a dedicated unstructured...validated in the Southern North Sea and Duck validation studies. The shallow water source terms for wave breaking and triad interactions are being

The Formation and Fate of Internal Waves in the South China Sea

DTIC Science & Technology

2015-11-05

FOf’miiiiiiM and Fate at Internal Waves In the South •C:hln;~t Sea --- --------· . _.,.. --- -------Author(s) Name{s) (Firsi,MI,La$t), Code, Atfi(iation...Tswen-Yung (David) Tang7 Internal gravity waves , the subsurface analogue of the familiar surface gravity waves that break on beaches, are ubiquitous in...for man-made structures in the ocean4. Generated primarily by the wind and the tides, internal waves can travel thousands of kilometres from their

Quantifying Wave Breaking Shape and Type in the Surf-Zone Using LiDAR

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Albright, A.; Brodie, K. L.; Hartzell, P. J.; Glennie, C. L.

2017-12-01

Waves change shape as they shoal and break across the surf-zone, ultimately dissipating and transferring their energy into turbulence by either spilling or plunging. This injection of turbulence and changes in wave shape can affect the direction of sediment transport at the seafloor, and ultimately lead to morphological evolution. Typical methods for collecting wave data in the surf-zone include in-situ pressure gauges, velocimeters, ultrasonic sensors, and video imagery. Drawbacks to these data collection methods are low spatial resolution of point measurements, reliance on linear theory to calculate sea-surface elevations, and intensive computations required to extract wave properties from stereo 2D imagery. As a result, few field measurements of the shapes of plunging and/or spilling breakers exist, and existing knowledge is confined to results of laboratory studies. We therefore examine the use of a multi-beam scanning Light Detection and Ranging (LiDAR) remote sensing instrument with the goal of classifying the breaking type of propagating waves in the surf-zone and quantitatively determining wave morphometric properties. Data were collected with a Velodyne HDL-32E LiDAR scanner (360° vertical field of view) mounted on an arm of the Coastal Research Amphibious Buggy (CRAB) at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility in Duck, North Carolina. Processed laser scan data are used to visualize the lifecycle of a wave (shoaling, breaking, broken) and identify wave types (spilling, plunging, non-breaking) as they pass beneath the scanner. For each rotation of the LiDAR scanner, the point cloud data are filtered, smoothed, and detrended in order to identify individual waves and measure their properties, such as speed, height, period, upward/downward slope, asymmetry, and skewness. The 3D nature of point cloud data is advantageous for research, because it enables viewing from any angle. In our analysis, plan views are used to separate individual waves, and cross-shore profiles are used to extract wave properties. Combined with accurate georeferencing information, LiDAR has the potential to be a powerful remote sensing tool for coastal monitoring systems and the study of nearshore processes.

Modelling wave-induced sea ice break-up in the marginal ice zone

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Montiel, F.; Squire, V. A.

2017-10-01

A model of ice floe break-up under ocean wave forcing in the marginal ice zone (MIZ) is proposed to investigate how floe size distribution (FSD) evolves under repeated wave break-up events. A three-dimensional linear model of ocean wave scattering by a finite array of compliant circular ice floes is coupled to a flexural failure model, which breaks a floe into two floes provided the two-dimensional stress field satisfies a break-up criterion. A closed-feedback loop algorithm is devised, which (i) solves the wave-scattering problem for a given FSD under time-harmonic plane wave forcing, (ii) computes the stress field in all the floes, (iii) fractures the floes satisfying the break-up criterion, and (iv) generates an updated FSD, initializing the geometry for the next iteration of the loop. The FSD after 50 break-up events is unimodal and near normal, or bimodal, suggesting waves alone do not govern the power law observed in some field studies. Multiple scattering is found to enhance break-up for long waves and thin ice, but to reduce break-up for short waves and thick ice. A break-up front marches forward in the latter regime, as wave-induced fracture weakens the ice cover, allowing waves to travel deeper into the MIZ.

Modelling wave-induced sea ice break-up in the marginal ice zone

PubMed Central

Squire, V. A.

2017-01-01

A model of ice floe break-up under ocean wave forcing in the marginal ice zone (MIZ) is proposed to investigate how floe size distribution (FSD) evolves under repeated wave break-up events. A three-dimensional linear model of ocean wave scattering by a finite array of compliant circular ice floes is coupled to a flexural failure model, which breaks a floe into two floes provided the two-dimensional stress field satisfies a break-up criterion. A closed-feedback loop algorithm is devised, which (i) solves the wave-scattering problem for a given FSD under time-harmonic plane wave forcing, (ii) computes the stress field in all the floes, (iii) fractures the floes satisfying the break-up criterion, and (iv) generates an updated FSD, initializing the geometry for the next iteration of the loop. The FSD after 50 break-up events is unimodal and near normal, or bimodal, suggesting waves alone do not govern the power law observed in some field studies. Multiple scattering is found to enhance break-up for long waves and thin ice, but to reduce break-up for short waves and thick ice. A break-up front marches forward in the latter regime, as wave-induced fracture weakens the ice cover, allowing waves to travel deeper into the MIZ. PMID:29118659

Modelling wave-induced sea ice break-up in the marginal ice zone.

PubMed

Montiel, F; Squire, V A

2017-10-01

A model of ice floe break-up under ocean wave forcing in the marginal ice zone (MIZ) is proposed to investigate how floe size distribution (FSD) evolves under repeated wave break-up events. A three-dimensional linear model of ocean wave scattering by a finite array of compliant circular ice floes is coupled to a flexural failure model, which breaks a floe into two floes provided the two-dimensional stress field satisfies a break-up criterion. A closed-feedback loop algorithm is devised, which (i) solves the wave-scattering problem for a given FSD under time-harmonic plane wave forcing, (ii) computes the stress field in all the floes, (iii) fractures the floes satisfying the break-up criterion, and (iv) generates an updated FSD, initializing the geometry for the next iteration of the loop. The FSD after 50 break-up events is unimodal and near normal, or bimodal, suggesting waves alone do not govern the power law observed in some field studies. Multiple scattering is found to enhance break-up for long waves and thin ice, but to reduce break-up for short waves and thick ice. A break-up front marches forward in the latter regime, as wave-induced fracture weakens the ice cover, allowing waves to travel deeper into the MIZ.

The Three-Dimensionality of Spiral Shocks: Did Chondrules Catch a Breaking Wave?

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Boley, A. C.; Durisen, R. H.; Pickett, M. K.

2005-12-01

Spiral shocks in vertically stratified disks lead to hydraulic/shock-jumps (hs-jumps) that stimulate large scale (tenths of an AU or more) radial and vertical motions, breaking surface waves, high-altitude shocks, and vortical flows. These effects are demonstrated by three-dimensional hydrodynamics simulations in Solar Nebula models. Trajectories of fluid elements, along with their thermal histories, suggest that hs-jumps mix the nebular gas and provide diverse pre-shock conditions, some of which are conducive to chondrule formation. In addition, hs-jumps may provide an energy source for driving nebular turbulence to size-sort chondrules.

Raman amplification in the coherent wave-breaking regime.

PubMed

Farmer, J P; Pukhov, A

2015-12-01

In regimes far beyond the wave-breaking threshold of Raman amplification, we show that significant amplification can occur after the onset of wave breaking, before phase mixing destroys the coherent coupling between pump, probe, and plasma wave. Amplification in this regime is therefore a transient effect, with the higher-efficiency "coherent wave-breaking" (CWB) regime accessed by using a short, intense probe. Parameter scans illustrate the marked difference in behavior between below wave breaking, in which the energy-transfer efficiency is high but total energy transfer is low, wave breaking, in which efficiency is low, and CWB, in which moderate efficiencies allow the highest total energy transfer.

Sea-State Dependence of Aerosol Concentration in the Marine Atmospheric Boundary Layer

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lenain, L.; Melville, W. K.

2016-02-01

While sea spray aerosols represent a large portion of the aerosols present in the marine environment, and despite evidence of the importance of surface wave and wave-breaking related processes in the coupling of the ocean with the atmosphere, sea spray source generation functions are traditionally parameterized by the wind speed at 10m. It is clear that unless the wind and wave field are fully developed, the source function will be a function of both wind and wave parameters. In this study, we report on an air-sea interaction experiment, the ONR phase-resolved High-Resolution Air-Sea Interaction experiments (HIRES), conducted off the coast of Northern California in June 2010. Detailed measurements of aerosol number concentration in the Marine Atmospheric Boundary Layer (MABL), at altitudes ranging from as low as 30m and up to 800m AMSL over a broad range of environmental conditions (significant wave height, Hs, of 2 to 4.5m and wind speed at 10m height, U10, of 10 to 18 m/s) collected from an instrumented research aircraft, are presented. Aerosol number densities and volume are computed over a range of particle diameters from 0.1 to 200 µm, while the surface conditions, i.e. significant wave height, moments of the breaker length distribution Λ(c), and wave breaking dissipation, were measured by a suite of electro-optical sensors that included the NASA Airborne Topographic Mapper (ATM). The sea-state dependence of the aerosol concentration in the MABL is evident, ultimately stressing the need to incorporate wave and wave kinematics in the spray source generation functions that are traditionally primarily parameterized by surface winds. A scaling of the measured aerosol volume distribution by wave and atmospheric state variables is proposed.

Rupture Dynamics along Thrust Dipping Fault: Inertia Effects due to Free Surface Wave Interactions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Vilotte, J. P.; Scala, A.; Festa, G.

2017-12-01

We numerically investigate the dynamic interaction between free surface and up-dip, in-plane rupture propagation along thrust faults, under linear slip-weakening friction. With reference to shallow along-dip rupture propagation during large subduction earthquakes, we consider here low dip-angle fault configurations with fixed strength excess and depth-increasing initial stress. In this configuration, the rupture undergoes a break of symmetry with slip-induced normal stress perturbations triggered by the interaction with reflected waves from the free surface. We found that both body-waves - behind the crack front - and surface waves - at the crack front - can trigger inertial effects. When waves interact with the rupture before this latter reaches its asymptotic speed, the rupture can accelerate toward the asymptotic speed faster than in the unbounded symmetric case, as a result of these inertial effects. Moreover, wave interaction at the crack front also affects the slip rate generating large ground motion on the hanging wall. Imposing the same initial normal stress, frictional strength and stress drop while varying the static friction coefficient we found that the break of symmetry makes the rupture dynamics dependent on the absolute value of friction. The higher the friction the stronger the inertial effect both in terms of rupture acceleration and slip amount. When the contact condition allows the fault interface to open close to the free surface, the length of the opening zone is shown to depend on the propagation length, the initial normal stress and the static friction coefficient. These new results are shown to agree with analytical results of rupture propagation in bounded media, and open new perspectives for understanding the shallow rupture of large subduction earthquakes and tsunami sources.

Evaluating crude oil chemical dispersion efficacy in a flow-through wave tank under regular non-breaking wave and breaking wave conditions.

PubMed

Li, Zhengkai; Lee, Kenneth; King, Thomas; Boufadel, Michel C; Venosa, Albert D

2009-05-01

Testing dispersant effectiveness under conditions similar to that of the open environment is required for improvements in operational procedures and the formulation of regulatory guidelines. To this end, a novel wave tank facility was fabricated to study the dispersion of crude oil under regular non-breaking and irregular breaking wave conditions. This wave tank facility was designed for operation in a flow-through mode to simulate both wave- and current-driven hydrodynamic conditions. We report here an evaluation of the effectiveness of chemical dispersants (Corexit EC9500A and SPC 1000) on two crude oils (Medium South American [MESA] and Alaska North Slope [ANS]) under two different wave conditions (regular non-breaking and plunging breaking waves) in this wave tank. The dispersant effectiveness was assessed by measuring the water column oil concentration and dispersed oil droplet size distribution. In the absence of dispersants, nearly 8-19% of the test crude oils were dispersed and diluted under regular wave and breaking wave conditions. In the presence of dispersants, about 21-36% of the crude oils were dispersed and diluted under regular waves, and 42-62% under breaking waves. Consistently, physical dispersion under regular waves produced large oil droplets (volumetric mean diameter or VMD > or = 300 microm), whereas chemical dispersion under breaking waves created small droplets (VMD < or = 50 microm). The data can provide useful information for developing better operational guidelines for dispersant use and improved predictive models on dispersant effectiveness in the field.

Polarimetric optical imaging of scattering surfaces.

PubMed

Barter, J D; Lee, P H

1996-10-20

A polarimetric optical specular event detector (OSED) has been developed to provide spatially and temporally resolved polarimetric data of backscattering in the visible from water wave surfaces. The OSED acquires simultaneous, two-dimensionally resolved images of the remote target in two orthogonal planes of polarization. With the use of plane-polarized illumination the OSED presently can measure, in an ensemble of breaking waves, the equivalent four-element polarization matrix common to polarimetric radars. Upgrade to full Stokes parameter state of polarization measurements is straightforward with the use of present single-aperture, multi-imager CCD camera technology. The OSED is used in conjunction with a coherent pulse-chirped radar (PCR), which also measures the four-element polarization matrix, to provide direct time-correlated identification of backscattering mechanisms operative during wave-breaking events which heretofore have not been described theoretically. We describe the instrument and its implementation, and examples of spatially resolved polarimetric data are displayed as correlated with the PCR backscatter cross section and polarization ratio records.

On the generation of internal wave modes by surface waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Harlander, Uwe; Kirschner, Ian; Maas, Christian; Zaussinger, Florian

2016-04-01

Internal gravity waves play an important role in the ocean since they transport energy and momentum and the can lead to mixing when they break. Surface waves and internal gravity waves can interact. On the one hand, long internal waves imply a slow varying shear current that modifies the propagation of surface waves. Surface waves generated by the atmosphere can, on the other hand, excite internal waves by nonlinear interaction. Thereby a surface wave packet consisting of two close frequencies can resonate with a low frequency internal wave (Phillips, 1966). From a theoretical point of view, the latter has been studied intensively by using a 2-layer model, i.e. a surface layer with a strong density contrast and an internal layer with a comparable weak density contrast (Ball, 1964; Craig et al., 2010). In the present work we analyse the wave coupling for a continuously stratified fluid using a fully non-linear 2D numerical model (OpenFoam) and compare this with laboratory experiments (see Lewis et al. 1974). Surface wave modes are used as initial condition and the time development of the dominant surface and internal waves are studied by spectral and harmonic analysis. For the simple geometry of a box, the results are compared with analytical spectra of surface and gravity waves. Ball, F.K. 1964: Energy transfer between external and internal gravity waves. J. Fluid Mech. 19, 465. Craig, W., Guyenne, P., Sulem, C. 2010: Coupling between internal and surface waves. Natural Hazards 57, 617-642. Lewis, J.E., Lake, B.M., Ko, D.R.S 1974: On the interaction of internal waves and surfacr gravity waves, J. Fluid Mech. 63, 773-800. Phillips, O.M. 1966: The dynamics of the upper ocean, Cambridge University Press, 336pp.

Models and observations of foam coverage and bubble content in the surf zone

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kirby, J. T.; Shi, F.; Holman, R. A.

2010-12-01

Optical and acoustical observations and communications are hampered in the nearshore by the presence of bubbles and foam generated by breaking waves. Bubble clouds in the water column provide a highly variable (both spatially and temporally) obstacle to direct acoustic and optical paths. Persistent foam riding on the water surface creates a primary occlusion of optical penetration into the water column. In an effort to better understand and predict the level of bubble and foam content in the surfzone, we have been pursuing the development of a detailed phase resolved model of fluid and gaseous components of the water column, using a Navier-Stokes/VOF formulation extended to include a multiphase description of polydisperse bubble populations. This sort of modeling provides a detailed description of large scale turbulent structures and associated bubble transport mechanisms under breaking wave crests. The modeling technique is too computationally intensive, however, to provide a wider-scale description of large surfzone regions. In order to approach the larger scale problem, we are developing a model for spatial and temporal distribution of foam and bubbles within the framework of a Boussinesq model. The basic numerical framework for the code is described by Shi et al (2010, this conference). Bubble effects are incorporated both in the mass and momentum balances for weakly dispersive, fully nonlinear waves, with spatial and temporal bubble distributions parameterized based on the VOF modeling and measurements and tied to the computed rate of dissipation of energy during breaking. A model of a foam layer on the water surface is specified using a shallow water formulation. Foam mass conservation includes source and sink terms representing outgassing of the water column, direct foam generation due to surface agitation, and erosion due to bubble bursting. The foam layer motion in the plane of the water surface arises due to a balance of drag forces due to wind and water column motion. Preliminary steps to calibrate and verify the resulting models will be taken based on results to be collected during the Surf Zone Optics experiment at Duck, NC in September 2010. Initial efforts will focus on an examination of breaking wave patterns and persistent foam distributions, using ARGUS imagery.

Non-Hydrostatic Modelling of Waves and Currents over Subtle Bathymetric Features

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gomes, E.; Mulligan, R. P.; McNinch, J.

2014-12-01

Localized areas with high rates of shoreline erosion on beaches, referred to as erosional hotspots, can occur near clusters of relict shore-oblique sandbars. Wave transformation and wave-driven currents over these morphological features could provide an understanding of the hydrodynamic-morphologic coupling mechanism that connects them to the occurrence of erosional hotspots. To investigate this, we use the non-hydrostatic SWASH model that phase-resolves the free surface and fluid motions throughout the water column, allowing for high resolution of wave propagation and breaking processes. In this study we apply a coupled system of nested models including SWAN over a large domain of the North Carolina shelf with smaller nested SWASH domains in areas of interest to determine the hydrodynamic processes occurring over shore oblique bars. In this presentation we focus on a high resolution grid (10 vertical layers, 10 m horizontal resolution) applied to the Duck region with model validation from acoustic wave and current data, and observations from the Coastal Lidar And Radar Imaging System (CLARIS). By altering the bathymetry input for each model run based on bathymetric surveys and comparing the predicted and observed wave heights and current profiles, the effects of subtle bathymetric perturbations have on wave refraction, wave breaking, surf zone currents and vorticity are investigated. The ability to predict wave breaking and hydrodynamics with a non-hydrostatic model may improve our understanding of surf zone dynamics in relation to morphologic conditions.

Generation of internal solitary waves by frontally forced intrusions in geophysical flows.

PubMed

Bourgault, Daniel; Galbraith, Peter S; Chavanne, Cédric

2016-12-06

Internal solitary waves are hump-shaped, large-amplitude waves that are physically analogous to surface waves except that they propagate within the fluid, along density steps that typically characterize the layered vertical structure of lakes, oceans and the atmosphere. As do surface waves, internal solitary waves may overturn and break, and the process is thought to provide a globally significant source of turbulent mixing and energy dissipation. Although commonly observed in geophysical fluids, the origins of internal solitary waves remain unclear. Here we report a rarely observed natural case of the birth of internal solitary waves from a frontally forced interfacial gravity current intruding into a two-layer and vertically sheared background environment. The results of the analysis carried out suggest that fronts may represent additional and unexpected sources of internal solitary waves in regions of lakes, oceans and atmospheres that are dynamically similar to the situation examined here in the Saguenay Fjord, Canada.

Lamb wave scattering by a surface-breaking crack in a plate

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Datta, S. K.; Al-Nassar, Y.; Shah, A. H.

1991-01-01

An NDE method based on finite-element representation and modal expansion has been developed for solving the scattering of Lamb waves in an elastic plate waveguide. This method is very powerful for handling discontinuities of arbitrary shape, weldments of different orientations, canted cracks, etc. The advantage of the method is that it can be used to study the scattering of Lamb waves in anisotropic elastic plates and in multilayered plates as well.

Validation of whitecap fraction and breaking wave parameters from WAVEWATCH-III using in situ and remote-sensing data

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Leckler, F.; Hanafin, J. A.; Ardhuin, F.; Filipot, J.; Anguelova, M. D.; Moat, B. I.; Yelland, M.; Prytherch, J.

2012-12-01

Whitecaps are the main sink of wave energy. Although the exact processes are still unknown, it is clear that they play a significant role in momentum exchange between atmosphere and ocean, and also influence gas and aerosol exchange. Recently, modeling of whitecap properties was implemented in the spectral wave model WAVEWATCH-III ®. This modeling takes place in the context of the Oceanflux-Greenhouse Gas project, to provide a climatology of breaking waves for gas transfer studies. We present here a validation study for two different wave breaking parameterizations implemented in the spectral wave model WAVEWATCH-III ®. The model parameterizations use different approaches related to the steepness of the carrying waves to estimate breaking wave probabilities. That of Ardhuin et al. (2010) is based on the hypothesis that breaking probabilities become significant when the saturation spectrum exceeds a threshold, and includes a modification to allow for greater breaking in the mean wave direction, to agree with observations. It also includes suppression of shorter waves by longer breaking waves. In the second, (Filipot and Ardhuin, 2012) breaking probabilities are defined at different scales using wave steepness, then the breaking wave height distribution is integrated over all scales. We also propose an adaptation of the latter to make it self-consistent. The breaking probabilities parameterized by Filipot and Ardhuin (2012) are much larger for dominant waves than those from the other parameterization, and show better agreement with modeled statistics of breaking crest lengths measured during the FAIRS experiment. This stronger breaking also has an impact on the shorter waves due to the parameterization of short wave damping associated with large breakers, and results in a different distribution of the breaking crest lengths. Converted to whitecap coverage using Reul and Chapron (2003), both parameterizations agree reasonably well with commonly-used empirical fits of whitecap coverage against wind speed (Monahan and Woolf, 1989) and with the global whitecap coverage of Anguelova and Webster (2006), derived from space-borne radiometry. This is mainly due to the fact that the breaking of larger waves in the parametrization by Filipot and Ardhuin (2012) is compensated for by the intense breaking of smaller waves in that of Ardhuin et al. (2010). Comparison with in situ data collected during research ship cruises in the North and South Atlantic (SEASAW, DOGEE and WAGES), and the Norwegian Sea (HiWASE) between 2006 and 2011 also shows good agreement. However, as large scale breakers produce a thicker foam layer, modeled mean foam thickness clearly depends on the scale of the breakers. Foam thickness is thus a more interesting parameter for calibrating and validating breaking wave parameterizations, as the differences in scale can be determined. With this in mind, we present the initial results of validation using an estimation of mean foam thickness using multiple radiometric bands from satellites SMOS and AMSR-E.

Improving Short Wave Breaking Behavior In Surfbeat Models

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Roelvink, J.; Daly, C.; Vandongeren, A. R.; van Thiel de Vries, J.; McCall, R.

2009-12-01

In present surfzone modeling three approaches are widely applied: short-wave resolving models, ‘surfbeat’ models, which resolve wave energy modulations on the time-scale of wave groups and their associated infragravity waves, and wave averaged models. In all three approaches, wave breaking is a process that is highly schematized and governed by several empirical coefficients. In this presentation we will focus on the breaking process in ‘surfbeat’ models, such as XBeach (Roelvink et al, 2009). These models need to describe the short wave dissipation by breaking as a function of the slowly-varying short wave energy or wave height. The model usually applied is that by Roelvink (1993), which combines a probability that waves are breaking as function of wave heigth over water depth ratio H/h with a bore-type dissipation formulation similar to that by Battjes and Janssen (1978). A drawback of such a formulation is that there is no ‘memory’ in the breaking process, and the amount of breaking instantly varies with the water depth (though the wave height itself does have a memory). For cases with bichromatic waves, or for long-period swell, this does not reflect reality enough: waves that start breaking do not instantly stop breaking once the water depth increases, but continue until some lower threshold is reached. This concept was captured in Dally’s (1992) wave-by-wave approach, where individual waves are tracked in a probabilistic setting. We have now implemented a similar formulation in XBeach, where the property that waves are breaking is tracked; it is switched on when H/h exceeds a first criterion; this property is propagated using an advection equation and when H/h gets below a second criterion breaking is switched off. This formulation can do two things the previous one can’t: maintain groupiness inside the surf zone and have a maximum of wave breaking in the trough after a steep bar, as was observed for instance in Arcilla et al’s (1994) test 1C. Obviously this has important consequences for the forcing of both long waves and mean currents. In our presentation we will show results of comparisons of both formulations. References. Arcilla, A.S., Roelvink, J.A., O'Connor, B.A. Reniers, A., and Jimenez. J.A. The Delta Flume '93 Experiment. Coastal Dynamics '94. Arcilla, Stive and Kraus (eds), ASCE, New York, pp. 488-502. Battjes, J.A. and J.P.F.M. Janssen, (1978), Energy loss and set-up due to breaking in random waves, Proc. 16th Int. Coastal Eng. Conf., Hamburg, vol. 1: 569-587. Dally, W.R. (1992) Random breaking waves: Field verification of a wave-by-wave algorithm for engineering application. Coastal Engineering, Volume 16, Issue 4, March 1992, Pages 369-397. Roelvink, Dano, Ad Reniers, Ap van Dongeren, Jaap van Thiel de Vries, Robert McCall, Jamie Lescinski. Modelling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands, Coast. Eng. (2009), doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.08.006 Roelvink, J.A. Dissipation in random wave groups incident on a beach. Coastal Eng., 19 (1993) pp. 127-150.

Areal Mass Oscillations in Planar Targets Due to Feedout: Theory and Simulations.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Velikovich, A. L.; Schmitt, A. J.; Karasik, M.; Obenschain, S. P.; Serlin, V.; Pawley, C. J.; Gardner, J. H.; Aglitskiy, Y.; Metzler, N.

2001-10-01

When a planar shock wave breaks out at a rippled rear surface of a laser-driven target, the lateral pressure gradient in a rippled rarefaction wave propagating back to the front surface causes a lateral mass redistribution that reverses the phase of mass variation. If the driving laser pulse has no foot, then the RT growth, starting when the rarefaction wave reaches the front surface, causes the second phase reversal of mass variation, and continues at the initial phase, as consistently observed in feedout experiments on Nike. A foot of the laser pulse can cause an early phase reversal of mass variation, making the strong shock wave driven by the main pulse interact with a density variation in a rippled rarefaction wave rather than with static rear surface ripples. Theory and simulations predict that this interaction can make the phase of mass variation reverse one or three times. Then the phase of the RT growing mode would be opposite to that of the initial mass variation.

Free-surface turbulent wake of a surface-piercing slender body at various Froude numbers

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Seo, Jeonghwa; Samad, Abdus; Rhee, Shin Hyung

2016-11-01

Free-surface effects on the near-wake around a surface-piercing slender body were investigated through flow field and wave elevation measurements. The near-wake flow field was measured by a towed underwater stereoscopic particle image velocimetry (SPIV) system. The measured flow field was analyzed to obtain coherent turbulence structures by using the Reynolds and proper orthogonal decomposition methods. Three different Froude numbers (Fr) - 0.126, 0.282, and 0.400 - were selected to represent mild, intermediate, and violent free-surface motions. At Fr = 0.126, the wave was hardly visible, although the turbulence strength and isotropy increased near the free-surface. At Fr = 0.282, though it was steady and smooth, wave-induced separation was clearly observed near the juncture of the free-surface and model trailing edge. At Fr = 0.400, wave breaking and the resulting bubbly free-surface were developed with an expanded wave-induced separation region. The wave-induced separation stimulated momentum transfer and turbulence dissipation, resulting in a significant change in the frequency of dominant free-surface motion in the downstream. This research was supported by the IT R&D program of MOTIE/KEIT (Grant No. 100660329) and the National Research Foundation of Korea, Grant funded by the Korean government (Grant No. 2013R1A1A2012597).

Propagation and Breaking at High Altitudes of Gravity Waves Excited by Tropospheric Forcing

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Prusa, Joseph M.; Smolarkiewicz, Piotr K.; Garcia, Rolando R.

1996-01-01

An anelastic approximation is used with a time-variable coordinate transformation to formulate a two-dimensional numerical model that describes the evolution of gravity waves. The model is solved using a semi-Lagrangian method with monotone (nonoscillatory) interpolation of all advected fields. The time-variable transformation is used to generate disturbances at the lower boundary that approximate the effect of a traveling line of thunderstorms (a squall line) or of flow over a broad topographic obstacle. The vertical propagation and breaking of the gravity wave field (under conditions typical of summer solstice) is illustrated for each of these cases. It is shown that the wave field at high altitudes is dominated by a single horizontal wavelength; which is not always related simply to the horizontal dimension of the source. The morphology of wave breaking depends on the horizontal wavelength; for sufficiently short waves, breaking involves roughly one half of the wavelength. In common with other studies, it is found that the breaking waves undergo "self-acceleration," such that the zonal-mean intrinsic frequency remains approximately constant in spite of large changes in the background wind. It is also shown that many of the features obtained in the calculations can be understood in terms of linear wave theory. In particular, linear theory provides insights into the wavelength of the waves that break at high altitudes, the onset and evolution of breaking. the horizontal extent of the breaking region and its position relative to the forcing, and the minimum and maximum altitudes where breaking occurs. Wave breaking ceases at the altitude where the background dissipation rate (which in our model is a proxy for molecular diffusion) becomes greater than the rate of dissipation due to wave breaking, This altitude, in effect, the model turbopause, is shown to depend on a relatively small number of parameters that characterize the waves and the background state.

The formation and fate of internal waves in the South China Sea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Alford, Matthew H.; Peacock, Thomas; MacKinnon, Jennifer A.; Nash, Jonathan D.; Buijsman, Maarten C.; Centuroni, Luca R.; Chao, Shenn-Yu; Chang, Ming-Huei; Farmer, David M.; Fringer, Oliver B.; Fu, Ke-Hsien; Gallacher, Patrick C.; Graber, Hans C.; Helfrich, Karl R.; Jachec, Steven M.; Jackson, Christopher R.; Klymak, Jody M.; Ko, Dong S.; Jan, Sen; Johnston, T. M. Shaun; Legg, Sonya; Lee, I.-Huan; Lien, Ren-Chieh; Mercier, Matthieu J.; Moum, James N.; Musgrave, Ruth; Park, Jae-Hun; Pickering, Andrew I.; Pinkel, Robert; Rainville, Luc; Ramp, Steven R.; Rudnick, Daniel L.; Sarkar, Sutanu; Scotti, Alberto; Simmons, Harper L.; St Laurent, Louis C.; Venayagamoorthy, Subhas K.; Wang, Yu-Huai; Wang, Joe; Yang, Yiing J.; Paluszkiewicz, Theresa; (David) Tang, Tswen-Yung

2015-05-01

Internal gravity waves, the subsurface analogue of the familiar surface gravity waves that break on beaches, are ubiquitous in the ocean. Because of their strong vertical and horizontal currents, and the turbulent mixing caused by their breaking, they affect a panoply of ocean processes, such as the supply of nutrients for photosynthesis, sediment and pollutant transport and acoustic transmission; they also pose hazards for man-made structures in the ocean. Generated primarily by the wind and the tides, internal waves can travel thousands of kilometres from their sources before breaking, making it challenging to observe them and to include them in numerical climate models, which are sensitive to their effects. For over a decade, studies have targeted the South China Sea, where the oceans' most powerful known internal waves are generated in the Luzon Strait and steepen dramatically as they propagate west. Confusion has persisted regarding their mechanism of generation, variability and energy budget, however, owing to the lack of in situ data from the Luzon Strait, where extreme flow conditions make measurements difficult. Here we use new observations and numerical models to (1) show that the waves begin as sinusoidal disturbances rather than arising from sharp hydraulic phenomena, (2) reveal the existence of >200-metre-high breaking internal waves in the region of generation that give rise to turbulence levels >10,000 times that in the open ocean, (3) determine that the Kuroshio western boundary current noticeably refracts the internal wave field emanating from the Luzon Strait, and (4) demonstrate a factor-of-two agreement between modelled and observed energy fluxes, which allows us to produce an observationally supported energy budget of the region. Together, these findings give a cradle-to-grave picture of internal waves on a basin scale, which will support further improvements of their representation in numerical climate predictions.

The formation and fate of internal waves in the South China Sea.

PubMed

Alford, Matthew H; Peacock, Thomas; MacKinnon, Jennifer A; Nash, Jonathan D; Buijsman, Maarten C; Centurioni, Luca R; Centuroni, Luca R; Chao, Shenn-Yu; Chang, Ming-Huei; Farmer, David M; Fringer, Oliver B; Fu, Ke-Hsien; Gallacher, Patrick C; Graber, Hans C; Helfrich, Karl R; Jachec, Steven M; Jackson, Christopher R; Klymak, Jody M; Ko, Dong S; Jan, Sen; Johnston, T M Shaun; Legg, Sonya; Lee, I-Huan; Lien, Ren-Chieh; Mercier, Matthieu J; Moum, James N; Musgrave, Ruth; Park, Jae-Hun; Pickering, Andrew I; Pinkel, Robert; Rainville, Luc; Ramp, Steven R; Rudnick, Daniel L; Sarkar, Sutanu; Scotti, Alberto; Simmons, Harper L; St Laurent, Louis C; Venayagamoorthy, Subhas K; Wang, Yu-Huai; Wang, Joe; Yang, Yiing J; Paluszkiewicz, Theresa; Tang, Tswen-Yung David

2015-05-07

Internal gravity waves, the subsurface analogue of the familiar surface gravity waves that break on beaches, are ubiquitous in the ocean. Because of their strong vertical and horizontal currents, and the turbulent mixing caused by their breaking, they affect a panoply of ocean processes, such as the supply of nutrients for photosynthesis, sediment and pollutant transport and acoustic transmission; they also pose hazards for man-made structures in the ocean. Generated primarily by the wind and the tides, internal waves can travel thousands of kilometres from their sources before breaking, making it challenging to observe them and to include them in numerical climate models, which are sensitive to their effects. For over a decade, studies have targeted the South China Sea, where the oceans' most powerful known internal waves are generated in the Luzon Strait and steepen dramatically as they propagate west. Confusion has persisted regarding their mechanism of generation, variability and energy budget, however, owing to the lack of in situ data from the Luzon Strait, where extreme flow conditions make measurements difficult. Here we use new observations and numerical models to (1) show that the waves begin as sinusoidal disturbances rather than arising from sharp hydraulic phenomena, (2) reveal the existence of >200-metre-high breaking internal waves in the region of generation that give rise to turbulence levels >10,000 times that in the open ocean, (3) determine that the Kuroshio western boundary current noticeably refracts the internal wave field emanating from the Luzon Strait, and (4) demonstrate a factor-of-two agreement between modelled and observed energy fluxes, which allows us to produce an observationally supported energy budget of the region. Together, these findings give a cradle-to-grave picture of internal waves on a basin scale, which will support further improvements of their representation in numerical climate predictions.

3D Numerical Simulation of the Wave and Current Loads on a Truss Foundation of the Offshore Wind Turbine During the Extreme Typhoon Event

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lin, C. W.; Wu, T. R.; Chuang, M. H.; Tsai, Y. L.

2015-12-01

The wind in Taiwan Strait is strong and stable which offers an opportunity to build offshore wind farms. However, frequently visited typhoons and strong ocean current require more attentions on the wave force and local scour around the foundation of the turbine piles. In this paper, we introduce an in-house, multi-phase CFD model, Splash3D, for solving the flow field with breaking wave, strong turbulent, and scour phenomena. Splash3D solves Navier-Stokes Equation with Large-Eddy Simulation (LES) for the fluid domain, and uses volume of fluid (VOF) with piecewise linear interface reconstruction (PLIC) method to describe the break free-surface. The waves were generated inside the computational domain by internal wave maker with a mass-source function. This function is designed to adequately simulate the wave condition under observed extreme events based on JONSWAP spectrum and dispersion relationship. Dirichlet velocity boundary condition is assigned at the upper stream boundary to induce the ocean current. At the downstream face, the sponge-layer method combined with pressure Dirichlet boundary condition is specified for dissipating waves and conducting current out of the domain. Numerical pressure gauges are uniformly set on the structure surface to obtain the force distribution on the structure. As for the local scour around the foundation, we developed Discontinuous Bi-viscous Model (DBM) for the development of the scour hole. Model validations were presented as well. The force distribution under observed irregular wave condition was extracted by the irregular-surface force extraction (ISFE) method, which provides a fast and elegant way to integrate the force acting on the surface of irregular structure. From the Simulation results, we found that the total force is mainly induced by the impinging waves, and the force from the ocean current is about 2 order of magnitude smaller than the wave force. We also found the dynamic pressure, wave height, and the projection area of the structure are the main factors to the total force. Detailed results and discussion are presented as well.

Statistical properties of nonlinear one-dimensional wave fields

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Chalikov, D.

2005-06-01

A numerical model for long-term simulation of gravity surface waves is described. The model is designed as a component of a coupled Wave Boundary Layer/Sea Waves model, for investigation of small-scale dynamic and thermodynamic interactions between the ocean and atmosphere. Statistical properties of nonlinear wave fields are investigated on a basis of direct hydrodynamical modeling of 1-D potential periodic surface waves. The method is based on a nonstationary conformal surface-following coordinate transformation; this approach reduces the principal equations of potential waves to two simple evolutionary equations for the elevation and the velocity potential on the surface. The numerical scheme is based on a Fourier transform method. High accuracy was confirmed by validation of the nonstationary model against known solutions, and by comparison between the results obtained with different resolutions in the horizontal. The scheme allows reproduction of the propagation of steep Stokes waves for thousands of periods with very high accuracy. The method here developed is applied to simulation of the evolution of wave fields with large number of modes for many periods of dominant waves. The statistical characteristics of nonlinear wave fields for waves of different steepness were investigated: spectra, curtosis and skewness, dispersion relation, life time. The prime result is that wave field may be presented as a superposition of linear waves is valid only for small amplitudes. It is shown as well, that nonlinear wave fields are rather a superposition of Stokes waves not linear waves. Potential flow, free surface, conformal mapping, numerical modeling of waves, gravity waves, Stokes waves, breaking waves, freak waves, wind-wave interaction.

Neural network approach to the inverse problem of the crack-depth determination from ultrasonic backscattering data

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Takadoya, M.; Notake, M.; Kitahara, M.; Achenbach, J. D.; Guo, Q. C.; Peterson, M. L.

A neural network approach has been developed to determine the depth of a surface breaking crack in a steel plate from ultrasonic backscattering data. The network is trained by the use of a feedforward three-layered network together with a back-propagation algorithm for error corrections. Synthetic data are employed for network training. The signal used for crack isonification is a mode converted 45 deg transverse wave. The plate with a surface breaking crack is immersed in water, and the crack is insonified from the opposite uncracked side of the plate. A numerical analysis of the backscattered field is carried out based on the elastic wave theory by the use of the boundary element method. The numerical analysis provides synthetic data for the training of the network. The training data have been calculated for cracks with specific increments of the experimental data which are different from the training data.

Development of a unified oil droplet size distribution model with application to surface breaking waves and subsea blowout releases considering dispersant effects.

PubMed

Li, Zhengkai; Spaulding, Malcolm; French McCay, Deborah; Crowley, Deborah; Payne, James R

2017-01-15

An oil droplet size model was developed for a variety of turbulent conditions based on non-dimensional analysis of disruptive and restorative forces, which is applicable to oil droplet formation under both surface breaking-wave and subsurface-blowout conditions, with or without dispersant application. This new model was calibrated and successfully validated with droplet size data obtained from controlled laboratory studies of dispersant-treated and non-treated oil in subsea dispersant tank tests and field surveys, including the Deep Spill experimental release and the Deepwater Horizon blowout oil spill. This model is an advancement over prior models, as it explicitly addresses the effects of the dispersed phase viscosity, resulting from dispersant application and constrains the maximum stable droplet size based on Rayleigh-Taylor instability that is invoked for a release from a large aperture. Copyright © 2016 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Experimental study on the bed shear stress under breaking waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hao, Si-yu; Xia, Yun-feng; Xu, Hua

2017-06-01

The object of present study is to investigate the bed shear stress on a slope under regular breaking waves by a novel instrument named Micro-Electro-Mechanical System (MEMS) flexible hot-film shear stress sensor. The sensors were calibrated before application, and then a wave flume experiment was conducted to study the bed shear stress for the case of regular waves spilling and plunging on a 1:15 smooth PVC slope. The experiment shows that the sensor is feasible for the measurement of the bed shear stress under breaking waves. For regular incident waves, the bed shear stress is mainly periodic in both outside and inside the breaking point. The fluctuations of the bed shear stress increase significantly after waves breaking due to the turbulence and vortexes generated by breaking waves. For plunging breaker, the extreme value of the mean maximum bed shear stress appears after the plunging point, and the more violent the wave breaks, the more dramatic increase of the maximum bed shear stress will occur. For spilling breaker, the increase of the maximum bed shear stress along the slope is gradual compared with the plunging breaker. At last, an empirical equation about the relationship between the maximum bed shear stress and the surf similarity parameter is given, which can be used to estimate the maximum bed shear stress under breaking waves in practice.

Parameterization of planetary wave breaking in the middle atmosphere

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Garcia, Rolando R.

1991-01-01

A parameterization of planetary wave breaking in the middle atmosphere has been developed and tested in a numerical model which includes governing equations for a single wave and the zonal-mean state. The parameterization is based on the assumption that wave breaking represents a steady-state equilibrium between the flux of wave activity and its dissipation by nonlinear processes, and that the latter can be represented as linear damping of the primary wave. With this and the additional assumption that the effect of breaking is to prevent further amplitude growth, the required dissipation rate is readily obtained from the steady-state equation for wave activity; diffusivity coefficients then follow from the dissipation rate. The assumptions made in the derivation are equivalent to those commonly used in parameterizations for gravity wave breaking, but the formulation in terms of wave activity helps highlight the central role of the wave group velocity in determining the dissipation rate. Comparison of model results with nonlinear calculations of wave breaking and with diagnostic determinations of stratospheric diffusion coefficients reveals remarkably good agreement, and suggests that the parameterization could be useful for simulating inexpensively, but realistically, the effects of planetary wave transport.

Turbulence and wave breaking effects on air-water gas exchange

PubMed

Boettcher; Fineberg; Lathrop

2000-08-28

We present an experimental characterization of the effects of turbulence and breaking gravity waves on air-water gas exchange in standing waves. We identify two regimes that govern aeration rates: turbulent transport when no wave breaking occurs and bubble dominated transport when wave breaking occurs. In both regimes, we correlate the qualitative changes in the aeration rate with corresponding changes in the wave dynamics. In the latter regime, the strongly enhanced aeration rate is correlated with measured acoustic emissions, indicating that bubble creation and dynamics dominate air-water exchange.

A numerical model of gravity wave breaking and stress in the mesosphere

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Schoeberl, M. R.; Strobel, D. F.; Apruzese, J. P.

1983-01-01

The goal of the study is to calculate numerically the deceleration and heating caused by breaking gravity waves. The effect of the radiative dissipation of the wave is included as vertical-wavelength-dependent Newtonian cooling. The parameterization for zonal deceleration is extended by breaking gravity waves (Lindzen, 1981) to include the turbulent diffusion of heat and momentum. After describing the numerical model, the numerical results are presented and compared with the parameterizations in a noninteractive model of the mean zonal wind. Attention is then given to the transport of constituents by gravity waves and the attendant turbulent zone. It is noted that if gravity wave breaking were not an intermittent process, gravity wave stresses would produce an adiabatic mesosphere with a zonal mean velocity close to the phase speed of the breaking wave.

Characteristics of finite amplitude stationary gravity waves in the atmosphere of Venus

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Young, Richard E.; Walterscheid, Richard L.; Schubert, Gerald; Pfister, Leonhard; Houben, Howard; Bindschadler, Duane L.

1994-01-01

This paper extends the study of stationary gravity waves generated near the surface of Venus reported previously by Young et al. to include finite amplitude effects associated with large amplitude waves. Waves are forced near the surface of Venus by periodic forcing. The height-dependent profiles of static stability and mean wind in the Venus atmosphere play a very important role in the evolution of the nonlinear behavior of the waves, just as they do in the linear wave solutions. Certain wave properties are qualitatively consistent with linear wave theory, such as wave trapping, resonance, and wave evanescence for short horizontal wavelenghts. However, the finite amplitude solutions also exhibit many other interesting features. In particular, for forcing amplitudes representative of those that could be expected in mountainous regions such as Aphrodite Terra, waves generated near the surface can reach large amplitudes at and above cloud levels, with clear signatures in the circulation pattern. At still higher levels, the waves can reach large enough amplitude to break, unless damping rates above the clouds are sufficient to limit wave amplitude growth. Well below cloud levels the waves develop complex flow patterns as the result of finite amplitude wave-wave interactions, and waves are generated having considerably shorter horizontal wavelenghts than that associated with the forcing near the surface. Nonlinear interactions can excite waves that are resonant with the background wind and static stability fields even when the primary surface forcing does not, and these waves can dominate the wave spectrum near cloud levels. A global map of Venus topographic slopes derived from Magellan altimetry data shows that slopes of magnitude comparable to or exceeding that used to force the model are ubiquitous over the surface.

Simulating Free Surface Flows with SPH

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Monaghan, J. J.

1994-02-01

The SPH (smoothed particle hydrodynamics) method is extended to deal with free surface incompressible flows. The method is easy to use, and examples will be given of its application to a breaking dam, a bore, the simulation of a wave maker, and the propagation of waves towards a beach. Arbitrary moving boundaries can be included by modelling the boundaries by particles which repel the fluid particles. The method is explicit, and the time steps are therefore much shorter than required by other less flexible methods, but it is robust and easy to program.

A numerical study on the effects of wave-current-surge interactions on the height and propagation of sea surface waves in Charleston Harbor during Hurricane Hugo 1989

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Liu, Huiqing; Xie, Lian

2009-06-01

The effects of wave-current interactions on ocean surface waves induced by Hurricane Hugo in and around the Charleston Harbor and its adjacent coastal waters are examined by using a three-dimensional (3D) wave-current coupled modeling system. The 3D storm surge modeling component of the coupled system is based on the Princeton Ocean Model (POM), the wave modeling component is based on the third generation wave model, Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN), and the inundation model is adopted from [Xie, L., Pietrafesa, L. J., Peng, M., 2004. Incorporation of a mass-conserving inundation scheme into a three-dimensional storm surge model. J. Coastal Res., 20, 1209-1223]. The results indicate that the change of water level associated with the storm surge is the primary cause for wave height changes due to wave-surge interaction. Meanwhile, waves propagating on top of surge cause a feedback effect on the surge height by modulating the surface wind stress and bottom stress. This effect is significant in shallow coastal waters, but relatively small in offshore deep waters. The influence of wave-current interaction on wave propagation is relatively insignificant, since waves generally propagate in the direction of the surface currents driven by winds. Wave-current interactions also affect the surface waves as a result of inundation and drying induced by the storm. Waves break as waters retreat in regions of drying, whereas waves are generated in flooded regions where no waves would have occurred without the flood water.

Water level effects on breaking wave setup for Pacific Island fringing reefs

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Becker, J. M.; Merrifield, M. A.; Ford, M.

2014-02-01

The effects of water level variations on breaking wave setup over fringing reefs are assessed using field measurements obtained at three study sites in the Republic of the Marshall Islands and the Mariana Islands in the western tropical Pacific Ocean. At each site, reef flat setup varies over the tidal range with weaker setup at high tide and stronger setup at low tide for a given incident wave height. The observed water level dependence is interpreted in the context of radiation stress gradients specified by an idealized point break model generalized for nonnormally incident waves. The tidally varying setup is due in part to depth-limited wave heights on the reef flat, as anticipated from previous reef studies, but also to tidally dependent breaking on the reef face. The tidal dependence of the breaking is interpreted in the context of the point break model in terms of a tidally varying wave height to water depth ratio at breaking. Implications for predictions of wave-driven setup at reef-fringed island shorelines are discussed.

Short-crested waves in the surf zone

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wei, Zhangping; Dalrymple, Robert A.; Xu, Munan; Garnier, Roland; Derakhti, Morteza

2017-05-01

This study investigates short-crested waves in the surf zone by using the mesh-free Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics model, GPUSPH. The short-crested waves are created by generating intersecting wave trains in a numerical wave basin with a beach. We first validate the numerical model for short-crested waves by comparison with large-scale laboratory measurements. Then short-crested wave breaking over a planar beach is studied comprehensively. We observe rip currents as discussed in Dalrymple (1975) and undertow created by synchronous intersecting waves. The wave breaking of the short-crested wavefield created by the nonlinear superposition of intersecting waves and wave-current interaction result in the formation of isolated breakers at the ends of breaking wave crests. Wave amplitude diffraction at these isolated breakers gives rise to an increase in the alongshore wave number in the inner surf zone. Moreover, 3-D vortices and multiple circulation cells with a rotation frequency much lower than the incident wave frequency are observed across the outer surf zone to the beach. Finally, we investigate vertical vorticity generation under short-crested wave breaking and find that breaking of short-crested waves generates vorticity as pointed out by Peregrine (1998). Vorticity generation is not only observed under short-crested waves with a limited number of wave components but also under directional wave spectra.

Modeling of Wave Spectrum and Wave Breaking Statistics Based on Balance Equation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Irisov, V.

2012-12-01

Surface roughness and foam coverage are the parameters determining microwave emissivity of sea surface in a wide range of wind. Existing empirical wave spectra are not associated with wave breaking statistics although physically they are closely related. We propose a model of sea surface based on the balance of three terms: wind input, dissipation, and nonlinear wave-wave interaction. It provides an insight on wave generation, interaction, and dissipation - very important parameters for understanding of wave development under changing oceanic and atmospheric conditions. The wind input term is the best known among all three. For our analysis we assume a wind input term as it was proposed by Plant [1982] and consider modification necessary to do to account for proper interaction of long fast waves with wind. For long gravity waves (longer than 15-30 cm) the dissipation term can be related to the wave breaking with whitecaps, as it was shown by Kudryavtsev et al. [2003], so we assume the cubic dependence of dissipation term on wind. It implies certain limitations on the spectrum shape. The most difficult is to estimate the term describing nonlinear wave-wave interaction. Hasselmann [1962] and Zakharov [1999] developed theory of 4-wave interaction, but the resulting equation requires at least 3-fold integration over wavenumbers at each time step of integration of balance equation, which makes it difficult for direct numerical modeling. It is desirable to use an approximation of wave-wave interaction term, which preserves wave action, energy, and momentum, and can be easily estimated during time integration of balance equation. Zakharov and Pushkarev [1999] proposed the diffusion approximation of the wave interaction term and showed that it can be used for estimate of wave spectrum. We believe their assumption that wave-wave interaction is the dominant factor in forming the wave spectrum does not agree with the observations made by Hwang and Sletten [2008]. Finally we consider modifications of the model equation, which can be done to describe gravity-capillary and capillary waves. An obvious correction is to add viscous dissipation. A little less obvious is a transition from 4-wave to 3-wave interaction. The model allows one to include easily generation of parasitic capillary waves as it was proposed by Kudryavtsev et al. [2003]. A modification of dissipation term can explain an "overshoot" phenomenon observed in JONSWAP spectrum. These examples demonstrate that the proposed model is quite flexible and can be used to account for various physical phenomena. The resulting balance equation is easy to integrate using a personal computer and necessity of its numerical solution is paid by the model flexibility and better physical background compared with empirical spectra. References Hasselmann, K., J. Fluid Mech., 12, pp.481-500, 1962. Hwang, P., and M. Sletten, J. Geophys. Res., 113, doi:10.1029/2007JC004277, 2008. Kudryavtsev, V., et al., J. Geophys. Res., 108 (C3), doi:10.1029/2001JC001003, 2003. Plant, W. J., J. Geophys. Res., vol. 87, pp. 1961-1967, 1982. Zakharov, V., and A. Pushkarev, Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics, 6, pp.1-10, 1999. Zakharov, V., Eur. J. Mech. B/Fluids, 18, pp.327-344, 1999.

Effect of current on spectrum of breaking waves in water of finite depth

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Tung, C. C.; Huang, N. E.

1987-01-01

This paper presents an approximate method to compute the mean value, the mean square value and the spectrum of waves in water of finite depth taking into account the effect of wave breaking with or without the presence of current. It is assumed that there exists a linear and Gaussian ideal wave train whose spectrum is first obtained using the wave energy flux balance equation without considering wave breaking. The Miche wave breaking criterion for waves in finite water depth is used to limit the wave elevation and establish an expression for the breaking wave elevation in terms of the elevation and its second time derivative of the ideal waves. Simple expressions for the mean value, the mean square value and the spectrum are obtained. These results are applied to the case in which a deep water unidirectional wave train, propagating normally towards a straight shoreline over gently varying sea bottom of parallel and straight contours, encounters an adverse steady current whose velocity is assumed to be uniformly distributed with depth. Numerical results are obtained and presented in graphical form.

Mapping wave breaking and residual foam using infrared remote sensing

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Carini, R. J.; Jessup, A. T.; Chickadel, C.

2012-12-01

Quantifying wave breaking in the surfzone is important for the advancement of models that seek to accurately predict energy dissipation, near-shore circulation, wave-current interactions, and air-sea gas transfer. Electro-optical remote sensing has been used to try to identify breaking waves. However, the residual foam, left over after the wave has broken, is indistinguishable from active foam in the visible band, which makes identification of active breaking difficult. Here, we explore infrared remote sensing of breaking waves at near-grazing incidence angles to differentiate between active and residual foam in the surfzone. Measurements were made at two field sites: Duck, NC, in September 2010 (Surf Zone Optics) and New River Inlet, NC, in May 2012 (RIVET). At both sites, multiple IR cameras were mounted to a tower onshore, viewing the surfzone at near-grazing incidence angles. For near-grazing incidence angles, small changes in viewing angle, such as those produced by the slope of a wave face, cause large modulations of the infrared signal. Therefore, the passage of waves can be seen in IR imagery. Wave breaking, however, is identified by the resulting foam. Foam has a higher emissivity than undisturbed water and thus appears warmer in an IR image. Residual foam cools quickly [Marmorino and Smith, 2005], thereby making its signal distinct from that of foam produced during active wave breaking. We will use these properties to develop a technique to produce spatial and temporal maps of active breaking and residual foam. These products can then be used to validate current models of surfzone bubbles and foam coverage. From the maps, we can also estimate energy dissipation due to wave breaking in the surfzone and compare this to estimates made with in situ data.; Infrared image of the surfzone at Duck, NC. Examples of actively breaking foam and cool residual foam are labeled.

A unified spectral,parameterization for wave breaking: from the deep ocean to the surf zone

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Filipot, J.

2010-12-01

A new wave-breaking dissipation parameterization designed for spectral wave models is presented. It combines wave breaking basic physical quantities, namely, the breaking probability and the dissipation rate per unit area. The energy lost by waves is fi[|#12#|]rst calculated in the physical space before being distributed over the relevant spectral components. This parameterization allows a seamless numerical model from the deep ocean into the surf zone. This transition from deep to shallow water is made possible by a dissipation rate per unit area of breaking waves that varies with the wave height, wavelength and water depth.The parameterization is further tested in the WAVEWATCH III TM code, from the global ocean to the beach scale. Model errors are smaller than with most specialized deep or shallow water parameterizations.

Theoretical model for scattering of radar signals in Ku- and C-bands from a rough sea surface with breaking waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Voronovich, A. G.; Zavorotny, V. U.

2001-07-01

A small-slope approximation (SSA) is used for numerical calculations of a radar backscattering cross section of the ocean surface for both Ku- and C-bands for various wind speeds and incident angles. Both the lowest order of the SSA and the one that includes the next-order correction to it are considered. The calculations were made by assuming the surface-height spectrum of Elfouhaily et al for fully developed seas. Empirical scattering models CMOD2-I3 and SASS-II are used for comparison. Theoretical calculations are in good overall agreement with the experimental data represented by the empirical models, with the exception of HH-polarization in the upwind direction. It was assumed that steep breaking waves are responsible for this effect, and the probability density function of large slopes was calculated based on this assumption. The logarithm of this function in the upwind direction can be approximated by a linear combination of wind speed and the appropriate slope. The resulting backscattering cross section for upwind, downwind and cross-wind directions, for winds ranging between 5 and 15 m s-1, and for both polarizations in both wave bands corresponds to experimental results within 1-2 dB accuracy.

Remote Sensing Characteristics of Wave Breaking Rollers

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Haller, M. C.; Catalan, P.

2006-12-01

The wave roller has a primary influence on the balances of mass and momentum in the surf zone (e.g. Svendsen, 1984; Dally and Brown, 1995; Ruessink et al., 2001). In addition, the roller area and its angle of inclination on the wave front are important quantities governing the dissipation rates in breaking waves (e.g Madsen et al., 1997). Yet, there have been very few measurements published of individual breaking wave roller geometries in shallow water. A number of investigators have focused on observations of the initial jet-like motion at the onset of breaking before the establishment of the wave roller (e.g. Basco, 1985; Jansen, 1986), while Govender et al. (2002) provide observations of wave roller vertical cross-sections and angles of inclination for a pair of laboratory wave conditions. Nonetheless, presently very little is known about the growth, evolution, and decay of this aerated region of white water as it propagates through the surf zone; mostly due to the inherent difficulties in making the relevant observations. The present work is focused on analyzing observations of the time and space scales of individual shallow water breaking wave rollers as derived from remote sensing systems. Using a high-resolution video system in a large-scale laboratory facility, we have obtained detailed measurements of the growth and evolution of the wave breaking roller. In addition, by synchronizing the remote video with in-situ wave gages, we are able to directly relate the video intensity signal to the underlying wave shape. Results indicate that the horizontal length scale of breaking wave rollers differs significantly from the previous observations of Duncan (1981), which has been a traditional basis for roller model parameterizations. The overall approach to the video analysis is new in the sense that we concentrate on individual breaking waves, as opposed to the more commonly used time-exposure technique. In addition, a new parameter of interest, denoted Imax, is introduced based on the envelope of the intensity signal. The parameter is shown to be much less sensitive to trailing wave breaking foam, which typically corrupts time-exposure data. In the present work this parameter is shown to provide high-resolution information regarding the onset of wave breaking and the spatial evolution of the wave roller. Ongoing work will attempt to relate the shoreward transformation of the intensity maximum and the geometric characteristics of the wave roller to the spatial distribution of wave breaking dissipation. Finally, we will compare wave breaking characteristics as imaged by two separate remote sensors. Synoptic images from both video and microwave radar remote sensors were obtained in September of 2005 at Duck, NC. This combination of the two observing systems will allow direct quantitative comparisons between the two imaging mechanisms and lead to a better understanding of the strengths and weaknesses of both for nearshore research and observational remote sensing.

Refined Source Terms in Wave Watch 3 with Wave Breaking and Sea Spray Forecasts

DTIC Science & Technology

2016-08-05

Farmer at IOS Canada involved a novel scale analysis of breaking waves. This was motivated by the results of the model study of wave breaking onset by...timely development that needs careful examination. 4.11 Highlights of the SPANDEX study SPANDEX, the Spray Production and Dynamics Experiment, is...speed alone. To accomplish this goal, a parallel laboratory study (SPANDEX II) was undertaken to parameterize sea spray flux dependences on breaking

Numerical study of dam-break induced tsunami-like bore with a hump of different slopes

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Cheng, Du; Zhao, Xi-zeng; Zhang, Da-ke; Chen, Yong

2017-12-01

Numerical simulation of dam-break wave, as an imitation of tsunami hydraulic bore, with a hump of different slopes is performed in this paper using an in-house code, named a Constrained Interpolation Profile (CIP)-based model. The model is built on a Cartesian grid system with the Navier Stokes equations using a CIP method for the flow solver, and employs an immersed boundary method (IBM) for the treatment of solid body boundary. A more accurate interface capturing scheme, the Tangent of hyperbola for interface capturing/Slope weighting (THINC/SW) scheme, is adopted as the interface capturing method. Then, the CIP-based model is applied to simulate the dam break flow problem in a bumpy channel. Considerable attention is paid to the spilling type reflected bore, the following spilling type wave breaking, free surface profiles and water level variations over time. Computations are compared with available experimental data and other numerical results quantitatively and qualitatively. Further investigation is conducted to analyze the influence of variable slopes on the flow features of the tsunami-like bore.

On the imprint of surfactant-driven stabilization of laboratory breaking wave foam with comparison to oceanic whitecaps

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Callaghan, A. H.; Deane, G. B.; Stokes, M. D.

2017-08-01

Surfactants are ubiquitous in the global oceans: they help form the materially-distinct sea surface microlayer (SML) across which global ocean-atmosphere exchanges take place, and they reside on the surfaces of bubbles and whitecap foam cells prolonging their lifetime thus altering ocean albedo. Despite their importance, the occurrence, spatial distribution, and composition of surfactants within the upper ocean and the SML remains under-characterized during conditions of vigorous wave breaking when in-situ sampling methods are difficult to implement. Additionally, no quantitative framework exists to evaluate the importance of surfactant activity on ocean whitecap foam coverage estimates. Here we use individual laboratory breaking waves generated in filtered seawater and seawater with added soluble surfactant to identify the imprint of surfactant activity in whitecap foam evolution. The data show a distinct surfactant imprint in the decay phase of foam evolution. The area-time-integral of foam evolution is used to develop a time-varying stabilization function, ϕ>(t>) and a stabilization factor, Θ, which can be used to identify and quantify the extent of this surfactant imprint for individual breaking waves. The approach is then applied to wind-driven oceanic whitecaps, and the laboratory and ocean Θ distributions overlap. It is proposed that whitecap foam evolution may be used to determine the occurrence and extent of oceanic surfactant activity to complement traditional in-situ techniques and extend measurement capabilities to more severe sea states occurring at wind speeds in excess of about 10 m/s. The analysis procedure also provides a framework to assess surfactant-driven variability within and between whitecap coverage data sets.