Under-estimated wave contribution to coastal sea-level rise

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Melet, Angélique; Meyssignac, Benoit; Almar, Rafael; Le Cozannet, Gonéri

2018-03-01

Coastal communities are threatened by sea-level changes operating at various spatial scales; global to regional variations are associated with glacier and ice sheet loss and ocean thermal expansion, while smaller coastal-scale variations are also related to atmospheric surges, tides and waves. Here, using 23 years (1993-2015) of global coastal sea-level observations, we examine the contribution of these latter processes to long-term sea-level rise, which, to date, have been relatively less explored. It is found that wave contributions can strongly dampen or enhance the effects of thermal expansion and land ice loss on coastal water-level changes at interannual-to-multidecadal timescales. Along the US West Coast, for example, negative wave-induced trends dominate, leading to negative net water-level trends. Accurate estimates of past, present and future coastal sea-level rise therefore need to consider low-frequency contributions of wave set-up and swash.

7 CFR 1806.23 - Definitions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2013 CFR

2013-01-01

... other body of water as a result of erosion or undermining caused by waves or currents of water exceeding anticipated cyclical levels, or abnormally high tidal water or rising coastal waters resulting from severe storms, hurricanes, or tidal waves resulting from volcano eruptions or earthquakes. (g) Mudslide or...

7 CFR 1806.23 - Definitions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2011 CFR

2011-01-01

... other body of water as a result of erosion or undermining caused by waves or currents of water exceeding anticipated cyclical levels, or abnormally high tidal water or rising coastal waters resulting from severe storms, hurricanes, or tidal waves resulting from volcano eruptions or earthquakes. (g) Mudslide or...

7 CFR 1806.23 - Definitions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2010 CFR

2010-01-01

... other body of water as a result of erosion or undermining caused by waves or currents of water exceeding anticipated cyclical levels, or abnormally high tidal water or rising coastal waters resulting from severe storms, hurricanes, or tidal waves resulting from volcano eruptions or earthquakes. (g) Mudslide or...

7 CFR 1806.23 - Definitions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2012 CFR

2012-01-01

... other body of water as a result of erosion or undermining caused by waves or currents of water exceeding anticipated cyclical levels, or abnormally high tidal water or rising coastal waters resulting from severe storms, hurricanes, or tidal waves resulting from volcano eruptions or earthquakes. (g) Mudslide or...

7 CFR 1806.23 - Definitions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2014 CFR

2014-01-01

... other body of water as a result of erosion or undermining caused by waves or currents of water exceeding anticipated cyclical levels, or abnormally high tidal water or rising coastal waters resulting from severe storms, hurricanes, or tidal waves resulting from volcano eruptions or earthquakes. (g) Mudslide or...

A numerical model investigation of the impacts of Hurricane Sandy on water level variability in Great South Bay, New York

USGS Publications Warehouse

Bennett, Vanessa C. C.; Mulligan, Ryan P.; Hapke, Cheryl J.

2018-01-01

Hurricane Sandy was a large and intense storm with high winds that caused total water levels from combined tides and storm surge to reach 4.0 m in the Atlantic Ocean and 2.5 m in Great South Bay (GSB), a back-barrier bay between Fire Island and Long Island, New York. In this study the impact of the hurricane winds and waves are examined in order to understand the flow of ocean water into the back-barrier bay and water level variations within the bay. To accomplish this goal, a high resolution hurricane wind field is used to drive the coupled Delft3D-SWAN hydrodynamic and wave models over a series of grids with the finest resolution in GSB. The processes that control water levels in the back-barrier bay are investigated by comparing the results of four cases that include: (i) tides only; (ii) tides, winds and waves with no overwash over Fire Island allowed; (iii) tides, winds, waves and limited overwash at the east end of the island; (iv) tides, winds, waves and extensive overwash along the island. The results indicate that strong local wind-driven storm surge along the bay axis had the largest influence on the total water level fluctuations during the hurricane. However, the simulations allowing for overwash have higher correlation with water level observations in GSB and suggest that island overwash provided a significant contribution of ocean water to eastern GSB during the storm. The computations indicate that overwash of 7500–10,000 m3s−1 was approximately the same as the inflow from the ocean through the major existing inlet. Overall, the model results indicate the complex variability in total water levels driven by tides, ocean storm surge, surge from local winds, and overwash that had a significant impact on the circulation in Great South Bay during Hurricane Sandy.

A numerical model investigation of the impacts of Hurricane Sandy on water level variability in Great South Bay, New York

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bennett, Vanessa C. C.; Mulligan, Ryan P.; Hapke, Cheryl J.

2018-06-01

Hurricane Sandy was a large and intense storm with high winds that caused total water levels from combined tides and storm surge to reach 4.0 m in the Atlantic Ocean and 2.5 m in Great South Bay (GSB), a back-barrier bay between Fire Island and Long Island, New York. In this study the impact of the hurricane winds and waves are examined in order to understand the flow of ocean water into the back-barrier bay and water level variations within the bay. To accomplish this goal, a high resolution hurricane wind field is used to drive the coupled Delft3D-SWAN hydrodynamic and wave models over a series of grids with the finest resolution in GSB. The processes that control water levels in the back-barrier bay are investigated by comparing the results of four cases that include: (i) tides only; (ii) tides, winds and waves with no overwash over Fire Island allowed; (iii) tides, winds, waves and limited overwash at the east end of the island; (iv) tides, winds, waves and extensive overwash along the island. The results indicate that strong local wind-driven storm surge along the bay axis had the largest influence on the total water level fluctuations during the hurricane. However, the simulations allowing for overwash have higher correlation with water level observations in GSB and suggest that island overwash provided a significant contribution of ocean water to eastern GSB during the storm. The computations indicate that overwash of 7500-10,000 m3s-1 was approximately the same as the inflow from the ocean through the major existing inlet. Overall, the model results indicate the complex variability in total water levels driven by tides, ocean storm surge, surge from local winds, and overwash that had a significant impact on the circulation in Great South Bay during Hurricane Sandy.

Sele coastal plain flood risk due to wave storm and river flow interaction

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Benassai, Guido; Aucelli, Pietro; Di Paola, Gianluigi; Della Morte, Renata; Cozzolino, Luca; Rizzo, Angela

2016-04-01

Wind waves, elevated water levels and river discharge can cause flooding in low-lying coastal areas, where the water level is the interaction between wave storm elevated water levels and river flow interaction. The factors driving the potential flood risk include weather conditions, river water stage and storm surge. These data are required to obtain inputs to run the hydrological model used to evaluate the water surface level during ordinary and extreme events regarding both the fluvial overflow and storm surge at the river mouth. In this paper we studied the interaction between the sea level variation and the river hydraulics in order to assess the location of the river floods in the Sele coastal plain. The wave data were acquired from the wave buoy of Ponza, while the water level data needed to assess the sea level variation were recorded by the tide gauge of Salerno. The water stages, river discharges and rating curves for Sele river were provided by Italian Hydrographic Service (Servizio Idrografico e Mareografico Nazionale, SIMN).We used the dataset of Albanella station (40°29'34.30"N, 15°00'44.30"E), located around 7 km from the river mouth. The extreme river discharges were evaluated through the Weibull equation, which were associated with their return period (TR). The steady state river water levels were evaluated through HEC-RAS 4.0 model, developed by Hydrologic Engineering Center (HEC) of the United States Army Corps of Engineers Hydrologic Engineering Center (USACE,2006). It is a well-known 1D model that computes water surface elevation (WSE) and velocity at discrete cross-sections by solving continuity, energy and flow resistance (e.g., Manning) equation. Data requirements for HEC-RAS include topographic information in the form of a series of cross-sections, friction parameter in the form of Manning's n values across each cross-section, and flow data including flow rates, flow change locations, and boundary conditions. For a steady state sub-critical simulation, the boundary condition is a known downstream WSE, in this case the elevated water level due to wave setup, wind setup and inverted barometer, while the upstream boundary condition consisted in WSE corresponding to river discharges associated to different return periods. The results of the simulations evidence, for the last 10 kilometers of the river, the burst of critical inundation scenarios even with moderate flow discharge, if associated with concurrent storm surge which increase the water level at the river mouth, obstructing normal flow discharge.

Kinematics and dynamics of green water on a fixed platform in a large wave basin in focusing wave and random wave conditions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Chuang, Wei-Liang; Chang, Kuang-An; Mercier, Richard

2018-06-01

Green water kinematics and dynamics due to wave impingements on a simplified geometry, fixed platform were experimentally investigated in a large, deep-water wave basin. Both plane focusing waves and random waves were employed in the generation of green water. The focusing wave condition was designed to create two consecutive plunging breaking waves with one impinging on the frontal vertical wall of the fixed platform, referred as wall impingement, and the other directly impinging on the deck surface, referred as deck impingement. The random wave condition was generated using the JONSWAP spectrum with a significant wave height approximately equal to the freeboard. A total of 179 green water events were collected in the random wave condition. By examining the green water events in random waves, three different flow types are categorized: collapse of overtopping wave, fall of bulk water, and breaking wave crest. The aerated flow velocity was measured using bubble image velocimetry, while the void fraction was measured using fiber optic reflectometry. For the plane focusing wave condition, measurements of impact pressure were synchronized with the flow velocity and void fraction measurements. The relationship between the peak pressures and the pressure rise times is examined. For the high-intensity impact in the deck impingement events, the peak pressures are observed to be proportional to the aeration levels. The maximum horizontal velocities in the green water events in random waves are well represented by the lognormal distribution. Ritter's solution is shown to quantitatively describe the green water velocity distributions under both the focusing wave condition and the random wave condition. A prediction equation for green water velocity distribution under random waves is proposed.

Wii mote as hydrological sensor: observation of water level fluctuations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Luxemburg, W.; Hut, R.; Weijs, S.; Hegnauer, M.

2009-12-01

The input device of the Nintendo Wii, the Wii-mote offers scientist a multitude of cheap, high quality sensors; ideal for proof of concept testing. For a specific application, i.e. the water level fluctuation in a floating evaporation pan the Wii-mote was tested as the observing device. It is shown that the controller can observe movements with high enough temporal and spatial resolution of up to 4 infrared LED’s to describe water level movements. Floating pans positioned in lakes and reservoirs better represent open water evaporation than evaporation pans installed on land. On the other hand performing water level measurements in a floating pan is more complicated due to movement of the pan and wave activities in the pan. The Wii-mote was mounted on the side of a standard class A-pan and a float was placed in the middle of the pan, with 4 LED’s on top moving along a fixed bar. The information that the Wii-mote wirelessly sends by blue tooth was captured on a laptop. With a MATLAB routine this data was converted into movement of the LED’s relatively to the controller. The observations show that wave activities are nicely captured with a typical spatial resolution smaller than 0.1 mm in our set-up and a temporal resolution of maximum 100 Hz. A frequency domain filter was applied to the observed datasets to obtain average water levels. In our laboratory setting the pan was placed in a large basin with a wave generator. A constant, but small, rate of water was added to the evaporation pan. The average pan levels from the filtered datasets showed systematically lower levels compared to the level without any wave activities. This is a typical effect of waves that occur in shallow basins. However, the added water with rates up to 5 mm/hour were clearly recognized in the filtered datasets which indicates that the Wii-mote is very well capable as a sensor for water level observations.

Lake St. Clair: Storm Wave and Water Level Modeling

DTIC Science & Technology

2013-06-01

R. A. Luettich, C. Dawson, V. J. Cardone , A. T. Cox, M. D. Powell, H. J. Westerink, and H. J. Roberts. 2010. A high resolution coupled riverine flow...Storm Wave and Water Level Modeling 5a. CONTRACT NUMBER 5b. GRANT NUMBER 5c. PROGRAM ELEMENT NUMBER 6. AUTHOR(S) Tyler J. Hesser

Low-grazing angle laser scans of foreshore topography, swash and inner surf-zone wave heights, and mean water level: validation and storm response

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Brodie, K. L.; McNinch, J. E.; Forte, M.; Slocum, R.

2010-12-01

Accurately predicting beach evolution during storms requires models that correctly parameterize wave runup and inner surf-zone processes, the principle drivers of sediment exchange between the beach and surf-zone. Previous studies that aimed at measuring wave runup and swash zone water levels have been restricted to analyzing water-elevation time series of (1) the shoreward-most swash excursion using video imaging or near-bed resistance wires, or (2) the free water surface at a particular location on the foreshore using pressure sensors. These data are often compared with wave forcing parameters in deeper water as well as with beach topography observed at finite intervals throughout the time series to identify links between foreshore evolution, wave spectra, and water level variations. These approaches have lead to numerous parameterizations and empirical equations for wave runup but have difficulty providing adequate data to quantify and understand short-term spatial and temporal variations in foreshore evolution. As a result, modeling shoreline response and changes in sub-aerial beach volume during storms remains a substantial challenge. Here, we demonstrate a novel technique in which a terrestrial laser scanner is used to continuously measure beach and foreshore topography as well as water elevation (and wave height) in the swash and inner surf-zone during storms. The terrestrial laser scanner is mounted 2-m above the dune crest at the Field Research Facility in Duck, NC in line with cross-shore wave gauges located at 2-m, 3-m, 5-m, 6-m, and 8-m of water depth. The laser is automated to collect hourly, two-dimensional, 20-minute time series of data along a narrow swath in addition to an hourly three-dimensional laser scan of beach and dune topography +/- 250m alongshore from the laser. Low grazing-angle laser scans are found to reflect off of the surface of the water, providing spatially (e.g. dx <= 0.1 m) and temporally (e.g. dt = 3Hz) dense elevation data of the foreshore, swash, and inner-surf zone bore heights. Foreshore elevation precision is observed to be < 0.01m. Sea surface elevation data is confined to the breaking region and is more extensive in rough, fully-dissipative surf zones, with the fronts of breaking waves and dissipated bores resolved most clearly. Time series of swash front (runup) data will be compared with simultaneously collected video-imaged swash timestacks, and wave height data of the inner surf zone will be compared with wave data from an aquadopp in 2m of water depth. In addition, analysis of the water level time series data at 10 cm intervals across the profile enables reconstruction of the shoreline setup profile as well as cross-shore variations in 1D wave spectra. Foreshore beach morphology evolution is analyzed using both the 2D cross-shore profile data, as well as the 3D topographic data during multiple storm events. Potential sources of error in the measurements, such as shadowing of the wave troughs or reflectance off of wave spray is identified and quantified.

Micro-tidal coastal reed beds: Hydro-morphological insights and observations on wave transformation from the southern Baltic Sea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

I.; | J., Möller; | T., Mantilla-Contreras; | A., Spencer; Hayes

2011-05-01

This paper investigates the hydro-morphological controls on incident wind-generated waves at, and the transformation of such waves within, two Phragmites australis reed beds in the southern Baltic Sea. Meteorological conditions in combination with geomorphological controls result, over short (<2 km) distances, in significant differences in water level and wave climate to which fringing reed beds are exposed. Significant wave height attenuation reached a maximum of 2.6% m -1 and 11.8% m -1 at the transition from open water into the reed vegetation at the sheltered and exposed sites respectively. Wave attenuation through the emergent reed vegetation was significantly lower in greater water depths, suggesting (1) a reduced influence of bed friction by small shoots/roots and/or (2) drag reduction due to flexing of plants when the wave motion is impacting stems at a greater height above the bed. For a given water depth, wave dissipation increased with increasing incident wave height, however, suggesting that, despite their ability to flex, reed stems may be rigid enough to cause increased drag under greater wave forcing. The higher frequency part of the wave spectrum (>0.5 Hz) was preferentially reduced at the reed margin, confirming the theoretical wave frequency dependence of bottom friction. The possibility of physiological adaptation (differences in reed stem diameter) to water depth and wave exposure differences is discussed. The results have implications for the possible impact of environmental changes, both acute (e.g. storm surges) or chronic (e.g. sea level rise) in character, and for the appropriate management of reed bed sites and delivery of ecological goods and services.

Preliminary Results Of Hydrodynamic Responses To Ship Movements And Weather Conditions Along The Coastal Walls Of Shallow Areas

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Acar, Dursun; Alpar, Bedri; Cagatay, Namık; Ozeren, Sinan; Sarı, Erol; Eris, Kadir; Vardar, Denizhan; Arslan, Tugce; Basegmez, Koray

2016-04-01

Water-level variations in coastal areas and shallow channels take place under the influence of more complex factors, compared to those in deeper areas. Atmospheric pressure, wind, and wave interactions with bottom morphological characteristics are some important natural features while human-induced factors are usually maritime traffic and manoeuvres the ships. While weather conditions cause long-term changes in water level, water level interactions in near shore areas, can occur very quickly depending on the ship manoeuvres and squat characteristics, and these rapid changes can lead to unpredictable water level lowering. Such rapid changes may cause various dangerous incidents and ship accidents, particularly in areas where rapid water oscillations occur. Improper calculations of propulsion power or orientation of the ship body, especially in the areas where geological and morphological characteristics permit fast water movements, are the most important additional causes of accidents due to sudden water level decreases. For an example, even though a 200-m-long vessel can complete its 35° rotation in a circular area with radius of 250 m, if it is calm and sufficiently deep, this diameter increases 5 times at the shallow waters also depending on the hydrodynamic flow conditions. In 2005, "Gerardus Mercator" has bumped into the inside bottom wall of the channel with a low speed (4 knots) turn of when she had just made a 200° turn. Seven years later the cruise ship "Costa Concordia" struck a rock, before she drifted and grounded, in the calm seas of the coast of Isola del Giglio in Italy, due to a combined effects of waves generated by side waves of ship manoeuvres, atmospheric pressure and squat specifications as well. The waves reflected from the seawalls complicate the navigation problems which should be examined in detail. Thus, three prototype models with various angular seawall features were prepared, simple in shape with perpendicular and sloped seawalls with flat bases. The spreading properties of water volumes together with the water level differences along the coastal walls were measured under the influence of a linear-turbine fan positioned above the model to simulate the dynamic wind pressure. The most severe water distributions and highest water-level losses have been observed on the model with +60° angular walls. Contrary, the model with reverse sloped (-60°) seawalls demonstrated the most oscillating level at the coast but has kept the water-level rather stable in the central part. This causes the waves to be reflected back to the wall as fast as it has been observed during the experiment. If compared to the other structures such a construction is quite costly to be made. However, the water depth in this model has been preserved at the shallow areas, since it is able to reflect the waves and its energy-absorbing feature is good with less "Ekman Condition" effect. Keywords: Shallow channel, coastal waters, atmospheric pressure, Ekman Condition, squat

Sustained water-level changes caused by damage and compaction induced by teleseismic earthquakes

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Shalev, Eyal; Kurzon, Ittai; Doan, Mai-Linh; Lyakhovsky, Vladimir

2016-07-01

Sustained water-level increase and decrease induced by distant earthquakes were observed in two wells, Gomè 1 and Meizar 1 in Israel. The Gomè 1 well is located within a damage zone of a major fault zone, and Meizar 1 is relatively far from a fault. The monitored pressure change in both wells shows significant water-level oscillations and sustained water-level changes in response to the passage of the seismic waves. The sustained water-level changes include short-term (minutes) undrained behavior and longer-period (hours and days) drained behavior associated with groundwater flow. We model the short-term undrained response of water pressure oscillations and sustained change to the distant 2013 Mw 7.7 Balochistan earthquake by nonlinear elastic behavior of damaged rocks, accounting for small wave-induced compaction and damage accumulation. We suggest that the rocks are close to failure in both locations and strain oscillations produced by the passing seismic waves periodically push the rock above the yield cap, creating compaction when volumetric strain increases and damage when shear strain increases. Compaction increases pore pressure, whereas damage accumulation decreases pore pressure by fracture dilation. The dominant process depends on the properties of the rock. For highly damaged rocks, dilatancy is dominant and a sustained pressure decrease is expected. For low-damage rocks, compaction is the dominant process creating sustained water-level increase. We calculate damage and porosity changes associated to the Balochistan earthquake in both wells and quantify damage accumulation and compaction during the passage of the seismic waves.

Role of S waves and Love waves in coseismic permeability enhancement

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wang, Chi-yuen; Chia, Yeeping; Wang, Pei-ling; Dreger, Douglas

2009-05-01

The 2008 M7.9 Wenchuan earthquake in Sichuan, China, caused water level to oscillate and undergo sustained changes in Taiwan, ˜2000 km away from the epicenter. Here we use the responses in three wells recorded at high sampling rate (1 Hz) and the broadband seismograms from a nearby station to document, for the first time, that the major water-level responses associated with Rayleigh waves were preceded by small oscillations that occurred concurrently with S waves and Love waves. We also show that the groundwater flow associated with these small oscillations may be strong enough to remove blockades from sediment pores to enhance aquifer permeability and to facilitate the later major responses.

Effects of wave-induced forcing on a circulation model of the North Sea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Staneva, Joanna; Alari, Victor; Breivik, Øyvind; Bidlot, Jean-Raymond; Mogensen, Kristian

2017-04-01

The effect of wind waves on water level and currents during two storms in the North Sea is investigated using a high-resolution NEMO model forced with fluxes and fields from a high-resolution wave model. The additional terms accounting for wave-current interaction that are considered in this study are the Stokes-Coriolis force and the sea-state dependent energy and momentum fluxes. The individual and collective role of these processes is quantified and the results are compared with a control run without wave effects as well as against current and water level measurements from coastal stations. We find a better agreement with observations when the circulation model is forced by sea-state dependent fluxes, especially in extreme events. The two extreme events, the storm Christian (25-27 October 2013), and about a month later, the storm Xaver (5-7 December 2013), induce different wave and surge conditions over the North Sea. Including the wave effects in the circulation model for the storm Xaver raises the modelled surge by more than 40 cm compared with the control run in the German Bight area. For the storm Christian, a difference of 20-30 cm in the surge level between the wave-forced and the stand-alone ocean model is found over the whole southern part of the North Sea. Moreover, the modelled vertical velocity profile fits the observations very well when the wave forcing is accounted for. The contribution of wave-induced forcing has been quantified indicating that this represents an important mechanism for improving water level and current predictions.

Effects of wave-induced forcing on a circulation model of the North Sea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Staneva, Joanna; Alari, Victor; Breivik, Øyvind; Bidlot, Jean-Raymond; Mogensen, Kristian

2017-01-01

The effect of wind waves on water level and currents during two storms in the North Sea is investigated using a high-resolution Nucleus for European Modelling of the Ocean (NEMO) model forced with fluxes and fields from a high-resolution wave model. The additional terms accounting for wave-current interaction that are considered in this study are the Stokes-Coriolis force, the sea-state-dependent energy and momentum fluxes. The individual and collective role of these processes is quantified and the results are compared with a control run without wave effects as well as against current and water-level measurements from coastal stations. We find a better agreement with observations when the circulation model is forced by sea-state-dependent fluxes, especially in extreme events. The two extreme events, the storm Christian (25-27 October 2013), and about a month later, the storm Xaver (5-7 December 2013), induce different wave and surge conditions over the North Sea. Including the wave effects in the circulation model for the storm Xaver raises the modelled surge by more than 40 cm compared with the control run in the German Bight area. For the storm Christian, a difference of 20-30 cm in the surge level between the wave-forced and the stand-alone ocean model is found over the whole southern part of the North Sea. Moreover, the modelled vertical velocity profile fits the observations very well when the wave forcing is accounted for. The contribution of wave-induced forcing has been quantified indicating that this represents an important mechanism for improving water-level and current predictions.

Role of beach morphology in wave overtopping hazard assessment

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Phillips, Benjamin; Brown, Jennifer; Bidlot, Jean-Raymond; Plater, Andrew

2017-04-01

Understanding the role of beach morphology in controlling wave overtopping volume will further minimise uncertainties in flood risk assessments at coastal locations defended by engineered structures worldwide. XBeach is used to model wave overtopping volume for a 1:200 yr joint probability distribution of waves and water levels with measured, pre- and post-storm beach profiles. The simulation with measured bathymetry is repeated with and without morphological evolution enabled during the modelled storm event. This research assesses the role of morphology in controlling wave overtopping volumes for hazardous events that meet the typical design level of coastal defence structures. Results show disabling storm-driven morphology under-represents modelled wave overtopping volumes by up to 39% under high Hs conditions, and has a greater impact on the wave overtopping rate than the variability applied within the boundary conditions due to the range of wave-water level combinations that meet the 1:200 yr joint probability criterion. Accounting for morphology in flood modelling is therefore critical for accurately predicting wave overtopping volumes and the resulting flood hazard and to assess economic losses.

Mechanisms of wave‐driven water level variability on reef‐fringed coastlines

USGS Publications Warehouse

Buckley, Mark L.; Lowe, Ryan J.; Hansen, Jeff E; van Dongeren, Ap R.; Storlazzi, Curt

2018-01-01

Wave‐driven water level variability (and runup at the shoreline) is a significant cause of coastal flooding induced by storms. Wave runup is challenging to predict, particularly along tropical coral reef‐fringed coastlines due to the steep bathymetric profiles and large bottom roughness generated by reef organisms, which can violate assumptions in conventional models applied to open sandy coastlines. To investigate the mechanisms of wave‐driven water level variability on a reef‐fringed coastline, we performed a set of laboratory flume experiments on an along‐shore uniform bathymetric profile with and without bottom roughness. Wave setup and waves at frequencies lower than the incident sea‐swell forcing (infragravity waves) were found to be the dominant components of runup. These infragravity waves were positively correlated with offshore wave groups, signifying they were generated in the surf zone by the oscillation of the breakpoint. On the reef flat and at the shoreline, the low‐frequency waves formed a standing wave pattern with energy concentrated at the natural frequencies of the reef flat, indicating resonant amplification. Roughness elements used in the flume to mimic large reef bottom roughness reduced low frequency motions on the reef flat and reduced wave run up by 30% on average, compared to the runs over a smooth bed. These results provide insight into sea‐swell and infragravity wave transformation and wave setup dynamics on steep‐sloped coastlines, and the effect that future losses of reef bottom roughness may have on coastal flooding along reef‐fringed coasts.

Measuring Liquid-Level Utilizing Wedge Wave

PubMed Central

Honma, Yudai; Mori, Masayuki; Ihara, Ikuo

2017-01-01

A new technique for measuring liquid-level utilizing wedge wave is presented and demonstrated through FEM simulation and a corresponding experiment. The velocities of wedge waves in the air and the water, and the sensitivities for the measurement, are compared with the simulation and the results obtained in the experiments. Combining the simulation and the measurement theory, it is verified that the foundation framework for the methods is available. The liquid-level sensing is carried out using the aluminum waveguide with a 30° wedge in the water. The liquid-level is proportional to the traveling time of the mode 1 wedge wave. The standard deviations and the uncertainties of the measurement are 0.65 mm and 0.21 mm using interface echo, and 0.39 mm and 0.12 mm utilized by end echo, which are smaller than the industry standard of 1.5 mm. The measurement resolutions are 7.68 μm using the interface echo, which is the smallest among all the guided acoustic wave-based liquid-level sensing. PMID:29267232

Laboratory meter-scale seismic monitoring of varying water levels in granular media

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Pasquet, S.; Bodet, L.; Bergamo, P.; Guérin, R.; Martin, R.; Mourgues, R.; Tournat, V.

2016-12-01

Laboratory physical modelling and non-contacting ultrasonic techniques are frequently proposed to tackle theoretical and methodological issues related to geophysical prospecting. Following recent developments illustrating the ability of seismic methods to image spatial and/or temporal variations of water content in the vadose zone, we developed laboratory experiments aimed at testing the sensitivity of seismic measurements (i.e., pressure-wave travel times and surface-wave phase velocities) to water saturation variations. Ultrasonic techniques were used to simulate typical seismic acquisitions on small-scale controlled granular media presenting different water levels. Travel times and phase velocity measurements obtained at the dry state were validated with both theoretical models and numerical simulations and serve as reference datasets. The increasing water level clearly affects the recorded wave field in both its phase and amplitude, but the collected data cannot yet be inverted in the absence of a comprehensive theoretical model for such partially saturated and unconsolidated granular media. The differences in travel time and phase velocity observed between the dry and wet models show patterns that are interestingly coincident with the observed water level and depth of the capillary fringe, thus offering attractive perspectives for studying soil water content variations in the field.

Determining the mean hydraulic gradient of ground water affected by tidal fluctuations

USGS Publications Warehouse

Serfes, Michael E.

1991-01-01

Tidal fluctuations in surface-water bodies produce progressive pressure waves in adjacent aquifers. As these pressure waves propagate inland, ground-water levels and hydraulic gradients continuously fluctuate, creating a situation where a single set of water-level measurements cannot be used to accurately characterize ground-water flow. For example, a time series of water levels measured in a confined aquifer in Atlantic City, New Jersey, showed that the hydraulic gradient ranged from .01 to .001 with a 22-degree change in direction during a tidal day of approximately 25 hours. At any point where ground water tidally fluctuates, the magnitude and direction of the hydraulic gradient fluctuates about the mean or regional hydraulic gradient. The net effect of these fluctuations on ground-water flow can be determined using the mean hydraulic gradient, which can be calculated by comparing mean ground- and surface-water elevations. Filtering methods traditionally used to determine daily mean sea level can be similarly applied to ground water to determine mean levels. Method (1) uses 71 consecutive hourly water-level observations to accurately determine the mean level. Method (2) approximates the mean level using only 25 consecutive hourly observations; however, there is a small error associated with this method.

A numerical study on the effects of wave-current-surge interactions on the height and propagation of sea surface waves in Charleston Harbor during Hurricane Hugo 1989

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Liu, Huiqing; Xie, Lian

2009-06-01

The effects of wave-current interactions on ocean surface waves induced by Hurricane Hugo in and around the Charleston Harbor and its adjacent coastal waters are examined by using a three-dimensional (3D) wave-current coupled modeling system. The 3D storm surge modeling component of the coupled system is based on the Princeton Ocean Model (POM), the wave modeling component is based on the third generation wave model, Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN), and the inundation model is adopted from [Xie, L., Pietrafesa, L. J., Peng, M., 2004. Incorporation of a mass-conserving inundation scheme into a three-dimensional storm surge model. J. Coastal Res., 20, 1209-1223]. The results indicate that the change of water level associated with the storm surge is the primary cause for wave height changes due to wave-surge interaction. Meanwhile, waves propagating on top of surge cause a feedback effect on the surge height by modulating the surface wind stress and bottom stress. This effect is significant in shallow coastal waters, but relatively small in offshore deep waters. The influence of wave-current interaction on wave propagation is relatively insignificant, since waves generally propagate in the direction of the surface currents driven by winds. Wave-current interactions also affect the surface waves as a result of inundation and drying induced by the storm. Waves break as waters retreat in regions of drying, whereas waves are generated in flooded regions where no waves would have occurred without the flood water.

A method for determining average beach slope and beach slope variability for U.S. sandy coastlines

USGS Publications Warehouse

Doran, Kara S.; Long, Joseph W.; Overbeck, Jacquelyn R.

2015-01-01

The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) National Assessment of Hurricane-Induced Coastal Erosion Hazards compares measurements of beach morphology with storm-induced total water levels to produce forecasts of coastal change for storms impacting the Gulf of Mexico and Atlantic coastlines of the United States. The wave-induced water level component (wave setup and swash) is estimated by using modeled offshore wave height and period and measured beach slope (from dune toe to shoreline) through the empirical parameterization of Stockdon and others (2006). Spatial and temporal variability in beach slope leads to corresponding variability in predicted wave setup and swash. For instance, seasonal and storm-induced changes in beach slope can lead to differences on the order of 1 meter (m) in wave-induced water level elevation, making accurate specification of this parameter and its associated uncertainty essential to skillful forecasts of coastal change. A method for calculating spatially and temporally averaged beach slopes is presented here along with a method for determining total uncertainty for each 200-m alongshore section of coastline.

Water-level and wave measurements in the Chandeleur Islands, Louisiana, 2012 and 2013

USGS Publications Warehouse

Dickhudt, Patrick J.; Sherwood, Christopher R.; DeWitt, Nancy T.

2015-01-01

This report documents measurements of atmospheric pressure, water levels, and waves made by the U.S. Geological Survey in the Chandeleur Islands, Louisiana, during 2012 and 2013 as part of the Barrier Island Evolution Research project. Simple, inexpensive pressure sensors mounted in shallow wells were buried in the beach and left for one hurricane season and one winter-storm season. Gauges with rapid-sampling pressure sensors that provided nondirectional wave data and water-level data were mounted on rugged mounts on the Chandeleur Sound side and at the base of a tower at the northern end of the island chain. Additionally, an atmospheric pressure sensor was mounted on the tower to provide a local atmospheric pressure measurement for correcting the submerged pressure records.

Flume experiments on wind induced flow in static water bodies in the presence of protruding vegetation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Banerjee, Tirtha; Muste, Marian; Katul, Gabriel

2015-02-01

The problem of wind-induced flow in inland waters is drawing significant research attention given its relevance to a plethora of applications in wetlands including treatment designs, pollution reduction, and biogeochemical cycling. The present work addresses the role of wind induced turbulence and waves within an otherwise static water body in the presence of rigid and flexible emergent vegetation through flume experimentation and time series analysis. Because no prior example of Particle Imaging Velocimetry (PIV) experiments involving air-water and flexible oscillating components have been found in the literature, a spectral analysis framework is needed and proposed here to guide the analysis involving noise, wave and turbulence separation. The experiments reveal that wave and turbulence effects are simultaneously produced at the air-water interface and the nature of their coexistence is found to vary with different flow parameters including water level, mean wind speed, vegetation density and its flexibility. For deep water levels, signature of fine-scaled inertial turbulence is found at deeper layers of the water system. The wave action appears stronger close to the air-water interface and damped by the turbulence deeper inside the water system. As expected, wave action is found to be dominated in a certain frequency range driven by the wind forcing, while it is also diffused to lower frequencies by means of (wind-induced) oscillations in vegetation. Regarding the mean water velocity, existence of a counter-current flow and its switching to fully forward flow in the direction of the wind under certain combinations of flow parameters were studied. The relative importance of wave and turbulence to the overall energy, degree of anisotropy in the turbulent energy components, and turbulent momentum transport at different depths from the air-water interface and flow combinations were then quantified. The flume experiments reported here differ from previous laboratory studies in the related literature involving vegetation in the sense that the wave forcing is only present on the water surface contrary to a full-body excitation by tidal wave simulators and thus important in advancing the knowledge regarding a wider range of water resource problems.

A Powerful Method of Measuring Sea Wave Spectra and their Direction

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Blasi, Christoph; Mai, Stephan; Wilhelmi, Jens; Zenz, Theodor; Barjenbruch, Ulrich

2014-05-01

Besides the need of precise measurements of water levels of the sea, there is an increasing demand for assessing waves in height and direction for different purposes like sea-wave modelling and coastal engineering. The design of coastal structures such as piles, breakwaters, and offshore structures like wind farms must take account of the direction of the impacting waves. To date, records of wave directions are scarce. The reason for this might be the high costs of purchasing and operating such measuring devices. These are usually buoys, which require regular maintenance. Against this background, the German Federal Institute of Hydrology (BfG) developed a low-cost directional sea-wave monitoring system that is based on commercially available liquid-level radar sensors. These sensors have the advantage that they have no contact to the fluid, i.e. the corrosive sea water. The newly developed device was tested on two sites. One is the tide gauge 'Borkum Südstrand' that is located in the southern North Sea off the island of Borkum. The other one is the 'Research Platform FINO1' approximately 45 km north of the island of Borkum. The main focus of these tests is the comparison of the data measured by the radar-based system with those of a conventional Directional Wave Rider Buoy. The general conditions at the testing sites are good for the tests. At the tide gauge 'Borkum Südstrand' waves propagate in different directions, strongly influenced by the morphological conditions like shallow waters of the Wadden Seas and the coast of the island of Borkum. Whereas on the open sea, at the site FINO1, the full physical conditions of the sea state, like heavy storms etc. play an important role. To determine and measure the direction of waves, the device has to be able to assess the wave movements in two dimensions. Therefore, an array of several radar sensors is required. Radar sensors are widely used and well established in measuring water levels, e.g. in tanks and basins. They operate by emitting a chain of electromagnetic pulses at a frequency of 26 GHz twice per second and, in turn, detect the backscatter information from the water surface. As the travelling time of each pulse is proportional to the distance between water surface and sensor, the height of the water surface can be easily calculated. To obtain the directional information of the sea state, all four radar sensors in the array have to collect simultaneously the wave profiles at fixed points. The Wave Rider Buoy works in a completely different way. Here, the wave height is calculated by the double integration of the measured vertical acceleration. By correlating the three-dimensional motion data, which are gained from gravity-stabilized vertical and horizontal accelerometers, the directional wave spectrum can be derived. Data of both devices were collected and analysed. During the hurricane Xaver, extreme water levels and heavy sea hit the North Sea coast on 5 and 6 December 2013. The radar array at the testing site FINO1 measured wave heights in the order of 15.5 meters. Furthermore, it was possible to detect significant wave heights, the mean wave direction, and the spread of the sea state. For the first time the accuracy of the wave height distribution could be determined as well.

Spatial Statistics of Deep-Water Ambient Noise; Dispersion Relations for Sound Waves and Shear Waves

DTIC Science & Technology

2015-09-30

propagation in very fine-grained sediments (silt and clay ). OBJECTIVES 1) The scientific objective of the deep-water ambient noise research is to...forces in silts and clays and the role they play in controlling wave speeds and attenuations. On a 2 quantum mechanical level, these forces are... clays . APPROACH 1) Deep-water ambient noise Three deep-diving, autonomous instrument platforms, known as Deep Sound I, II, & III, have been

Cross-Shore Exchange on Natural Beaches

DTIC Science & Technology

2014-09-01

87   Figure 2.   Wave conditions measured by the ADCP in 13 m water depth of (a) root- mean-square wave height Hrms...horizontal velocity, Umean, measured in the reference level, ∑Tsig,pulse T3−hour ∑Tsig,pulse T3−hour xi (e) local water depth, h, and (f) local root...mean-square wave height normalized by the local water depth, Hrms/h, measured by ADCPin (blue) and ADCPout (red) during the 3HRLTs. Colored lines

Past and future drivers of increased erosion risk in the northern Gulf of Mexico

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wahl, T.; Plant, N. G.

2014-12-01

We use hourly observations of water levels from two tide gauges and wave data from three buoys to assess their relative contribution to past and potential future changes in the erosion risk for Dauphin Island, a barrier island located off the coastline of Alabama. Topographic information (i.e. beach slopes and dune toe and crest heights) is obtained from the most recent lidar survey conducted in the area in July 2013. Water levels and wave parameters (i.e. significant wave height and peak period) from the two tide gauges and three wave buoys are merged into single records spanning the period from 1981 to 2013. The Stockdon et al. (2006) run-up model is used to estimate the 2% exceedance values of wave run-up maxima, which are then combined with the observed water levels at the representative tide gauge site to obtain total water levels (TWLs). With this information we assess the relative contribution of geocentric sea level rise, vertical land-movement, and long-term changes in the wave parameters to the observed increase in erosion risk. The latter is approximated using the concept of impact hours per year (IHPY; Ruggiero 2013) at dune toe and dune crest elevation thresholds derived from the lidar data. Wahl et al. (2014) recently discovered a significant increase in the amplitude of the seasonal sea level cycle in the Gulf of Mexico. Here, we explore the potential of these changes, and similar developments in the seasonal cycle of the wave data and corresponding IHPY, to affect coastal erosion. Such intra-annual signals with longer-term variations have not been included in most earlier studies in favour of analysing the effects of annually averaged long-term trends. Finally, scenarios of potential future changes of all relevant parameters are used to explore their relative contribution to further increase in the coastal erosion risk over the next few decades.

Physical and Biological Controls on the Carbonate Chemistry of Coral Reef Waters: Effects of Metabolism, Wave Forcing, Sea Level, and Geomorphology

PubMed Central

Falter, James L.; Lowe, Ryan J.; Zhang, Zhenlin; McCulloch, Malcolm

2013-01-01

We present a three-dimensional hydrodynamic-biogeochemical model of a wave-driven coral-reef lagoon system using the circulation model ROMS (Regional Ocean Modeling System) coupled with the wave transformation model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore). Simulations were used to explore the sensitivity of water column carbonate chemistry across the reef system to variations in benthic reef metabolism, wave forcing, sea level, and system geomorphology. Our results show that changes in reef-water carbonate chemistry depend primarily on the ratio of benthic metabolism to the square root of the onshore wave energy flux as well as on the length and depth of the reef flat; however, they are only weakly dependent on channel geometry and the total frictional resistance of the reef system. Diurnal variations in pCO2, pH, and aragonite saturation state (Ωar) are primarily dependent on changes in net production and are relatively insensitive to changes in net calcification; however, net changes in pCO2, pH, and Ωar are more strongly influenced by net calcification when averaged over 24 hours. We also demonstrate that a relatively simple one-dimensional analytical model can provide a good description of the functional dependence of reef-water carbonate chemistry on benthic metabolism, wave forcing, sea level, reef flat morphology, and total system frictional resistance. Importantly, our results indicate that any long-term (weeks to months) net offsets in reef-water pCO2 relative to offshore values should be modest for reef systems with narrow and/or deep lagoons. Thus, the long-term evolution of water column pCO2 in many reef environments remains intimately connected to the regional-scale oceanography of offshore waters and hence directly influenced by rapid anthropogenically driven increases in pCO2. PMID:23326411

Physical and biological controls on the carbonate chemistry of coral reef waters: effects of metabolism, wave forcing, sea level, and geomorphology.

PubMed

Falter, James L; Lowe, Ryan J; Zhang, Zhenlin; McCulloch, Malcolm

2013-01-01

We present a three-dimensional hydrodynamic-biogeochemical model of a wave-driven coral-reef lagoon system using the circulation model ROMS (Regional Ocean Modeling System) coupled with the wave transformation model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore). Simulations were used to explore the sensitivity of water column carbonate chemistry across the reef system to variations in benthic reef metabolism, wave forcing, sea level, and system geomorphology. Our results show that changes in reef-water carbonate chemistry depend primarily on the ratio of benthic metabolism to the square root of the onshore wave energy flux as well as on the length and depth of the reef flat; however, they are only weakly dependent on channel geometry and the total frictional resistance of the reef system. Diurnal variations in pCO(2), pH, and aragonite saturation state (Ω(ar)) are primarily dependent on changes in net production and are relatively insensitive to changes in net calcification; however, net changes in pCO(2), pH, and Ω(ar) are more strongly influenced by net calcification when averaged over 24 hours. We also demonstrate that a relatively simple one-dimensional analytical model can provide a good description of the functional dependence of reef-water carbonate chemistry on benthic metabolism, wave forcing, sea level, reef flat morphology, and total system frictional resistance. Importantly, our results indicate that any long-term (weeks to months) net offsets in reef-water pCO(2) relative to offshore values should be modest for reef systems with narrow and/or deep lagoons. Thus, the long-term evolution of water column pCO(2) in many reef environments remains intimately connected to the regional-scale oceanography of offshore waters and hence directly influenced by rapid anthropogenically driven increases in pCO(2).

Exchange of E. coli from the foreshore reservoir to surface waters during intensified wave conditions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Malott, S. S.; Vogel, L. J.; Edge, T.; O'Carroll, D. M.; Robinson, C. E.

2014-12-01

In recent years a number of studies have suggested that foreshore sand and porewater can act as a non-point source of microbial contamination to adjacent surface waters. Fecal indicator bacteria (FIB) can be released from the sand into the surface water through sand erosion or wave-induced porewater flows leading to FIB detachment. Although regression models often show that there is a strong correlation between wave events and high E. coli in surface waters, there is limited understanding of the mechanisms by which E. coli is transported from the subsurface foreshore reservoir (sand and porewater) to surface waters during wave events. An improved understanding of the transport mechanisms will facilitate the development of better water quality exceedences predictions. Detailed groundwater flow, sand level and E. coli measurements were conducted at Ipperwash Beach, Lake Huron (Ontario) for three wave events during the 2014 bathing season to evaluate the relative contribution of sand erosion and wave-induced pore water flow in transporting E. coli from the subsurface reservoir to the shallow waters. As expected, results indicate increased E. coli concentrations in ankle and waist deep surface water during periods of increased wave activity (wave height > 0.5m). Considerable sand erosion from the foreshore may have contributed to these increased surface water concentrations. The E. coli concentrations in the foreshore reservoir generally decreased as the wave height intensified, while E. coli concentrations in upshore sand and porewater locations increased.

Coastal Storm Hazards from Virginia to Maine

DTIC Science & Technology

2015-11-01

study, storm surge, tide, waves, wind, atmospheric pressure, and currents were the dominant storm responses computed. The effect of sea level change on...coastal storm hazards and vulnerability nationally (USACE 2015). NACCS goals also included evaluating the effect of future sea level change (SLC) on...the computed high-fidelity responses included storm surge, astronomical tide, waves, wave effects on water levels, storm duration, wind, currents

The Effect of Vegetation on Sea-Swell Waves, Infragravity Waves and Wave-Induced Setup

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Roelvink, J. A.; van Rooijen, A.; McCall, R. T.; Van Dongeren, A.; Reniers, A.; van Thiel de Vries, J.

2016-02-01

Aquatic vegetation in the coastal zone (e.g. mangrove trees) attenuates wave energy and thereby reduces flood risk along many shorelines worldwide. However, in addition to the attenuation of incident-band (sea-swell) waves, vegetation may also affect infragravity-band (IG) waves and the wave-induced water level setup (in short: wave setup). Currently, knowledge on the effect of vegetation on IG waves and wave setup is lacking, while they are they are key parameters for coastal risk assessment. In this study, the process-based storm impact model XBeach was extended with formulations for attenuation of sea-swell and IG waves as well as the effect on the wave setup, in two modes: the sea-swell wave phase-resolving (non-hydrostatic) and the phase-averaged (surfbeat) mode. In surfbeat mode a wave shape model was implemented to estimate the wave phase and to capture the intra-wave scale effect of emergent vegetation and nonlinear waves on the wave setup. Both modeling modes were validated using data from two flume experiments and show good skill in computing the attenuation of both sea-swell and IG waves as well as the effect on the wave-induced water level setup. In surfbeat mode, the prediction of nearshore mean water levels greatly improved when using the wave shape model, while in non-hydrostatic mode this effect is directly accounted for. Subsequently, the model was used to study the influence of the bottom profile slope and the location of the vegetation field on the computed wave setup with and without vegetation. It was found that the reduction is wave setup is strongly related to the location of vegetation relative to the wave breaking point, and that the wave setup is lower for milder slopes. The extended version of XBeach developed within this study can be used to study the nearshore hydrodynamics on coasts fronted by vegetation such as mangroves. It can also serve as tool for storm impact studies on coasts with aquatic vegetation, and can help to quantify the coastal protection function of vegetation.

The relative contribution of waves, tides, and nontidal residuals to extreme total water levels on U.S. West Coast sandy beaches

USGS Publications Warehouse

Serafin, Katherine A.; Ruggiero, Peter; Stockdon, Hilary F.

2017-01-01

To better understand how individual processes combine to cause flooding and erosion events, we investigate the relative contribution of tides, waves, and nontidal residuals to extreme total water levels (TWLs) at the shoreline of U.S. West Coast sandy beaches. Extreme TWLs, defined as the observed annual maximum event and the simulated 100 year return level event, peak in Washington, and are on average larger in Washington and Oregon than in California. The relative contribution of wave-induced and still water levels (SWL) to the 100 year TWL event is similar to that of the annual maximum event; however, the contribution of storm surge to the SWL doubles across events. Understanding the regional variability of TWLs will lead to a better understanding of how sea level rise, changes in storminess, and possible changes in the frequency of major El Niños may impact future coastal flooding and erosion along the U.S. West Coast and elsewhere.

Doubling of coastal flooding frequency within decades due to sea-level rise

USGS Publications Warehouse

Vitousek, Sean; Barnard, Patrick L.; Fletcher, Charles H.; Frazer, Neil; Erikson, Li; Storlazzi, Curt D.

2017-01-01

Global climate change drives sea-level rise, increasing the frequency of coastal flooding. In most coastal regions, the amount of sea-level rise occurring over years to decades is significantly smaller than normal ocean-level fluctuations caused by tides, waves, and storm surge. However, even gradual sea-level rise can rapidly increase the frequency and severity of coastal flooding. So far, global-scale estimates of increased coastal flooding due to sea-level rise have not considered elevated water levels due to waves, and thus underestimate the potential impact. Here we use extreme value theory to combine sea-level projections with wave, tide, and storm surge models to estimate increases in coastal flooding on a continuous global scale. We find that regions with limited water-level variability, i.e., short-tailed flood-level distributions, located mainly in the Tropics, will experience the largest increases in flooding frequency. The 10 to 20 cm of sea-level rise expected no later than 2050 will more than double the frequency of extreme water-level events in the Tropics, impairing the developing economies of equatorial coastal cities and the habitability of low-lying Pacific island nations.

Effect of winds and waves on salt intrusion in the Pearl River estuary

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gong, Wenping; Lin, Zhongyuan; Chen, Yunzhen; Chen, Zhaoyun; Zhang, Heng

2018-02-01

Salt intrusion in the Pearl River estuary (PRE) is a dynamic process that is influenced by a range of factors and to date, few studies have examined the effects of winds and waves on salt intrusion in the PRE. We investigate these effects using the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) modeling system applied to the PRE. After careful validation, the model is used for a series of diagnostic simulations. It is revealed that the local wind considerably strengthens the salt intrusion by lowering the water level in the eastern part of the estuary and increasing the bottom landward flow. The remote wind increases the water mixing on the continental shelf, elevates the water level on the shelf and in the PRE and pumps saltier shelf water into the estuary by Ekman transport. Enhancement of the salt intrusion is comparable between the remote and local winds. Waves decrease the salt intrusion by increasing the water mixing. Sensitivity analysis shows that the axial down-estuary wind, is most efficient in driving increases in salt intrusion via wind straining effect.

Coherence between coastal and river flooding along the California coast

USGS Publications Warehouse

Odigie, Kingsley O.; Warrick, Jonathan

2018-01-01

Water levels around river mouths are intrinsically determined by sea level and river discharge. If storm-associated coastal water-level anomalies coincide with extreme river discharge, landscapes near river mouths will be flooded by the hydrodynamic interactions of these two water masses. Unfortunately, the temporal relationships between ocean and river water masses are not well understood. The coherence between extreme river discharge and coastal water levels at six California river mouths across different climatic and geographic regions was examined. Data from river gauges, wave buoys, and tide gauges from 2007 to 2014 were integrated to investigate the relationships between extreme river discharge and coastal water levels near the mouths of the Eel, Russian, San Lorenzo, Ventura, Arroyo Trabuco, and San Diego rivers. Results indicate that mean and extreme coastal water levels during extreme river discharge are significantly higher compared with background conditions. Elevated coastal water levels result from the combination of nontidal residuals (NTRs) and wave setups. Mean and extreme (>99th percentile of observations) NTRs are 3–20 cm and ∼30 cm higher during extreme river discharge conditions, respectively. Mean and extreme wave setups are up to 40 cm and ∼20–90 cm higher during extreme river discharge than typical conditions, respectively. These water-level anomalies were generally greatest for the northern rivers and least for the southern rivers. Time-series comparisons suggest that increases in NTRs are largely coherent with extreme river discharge, owing to the low atmospheric pressure systems associated with storms. The potential flooding risks of the concurrent timing of these water masses are tempered by the mixed, semidiurnal tides of the region that have amplitudes of 2–2.5 m. In summary, flooding hazard assessments for floodplains near California river mouths for current or future conditions with sea-level rise should include the temporal coherence of fluvial and oceanic water levels.

Design of a New Water Load for S-band 750 kW Continuous Wave High Power Klystron Used in EAST Tokamak

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Liu, Liang; Liu, Fukun; Shan, Jiafang; Kuang, Guangli

2007-04-01

In order to test the klystrons operated at a frequency of 3.7 GHz in a continuous wave (CW) mode, a type of water load to absorb its power up to 750 kW is presented. The distilled water sealed with an RF ceramic window is used as the absorbent. At a frequency range of 70 MHz, the VSWR (Voltage Standing Wave Ratio) is below 1.2, and the rise in temperature of water is about 30 oC at the highest power level.

A Bayesian-Based System to Assess Wave-Driven Flooding Hazards on Coral Reef-Lined Coasts

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Pearson, S. G.; Storlazzi, C. D.; van Dongeren, A. R.; Tissier, M. F. S.; Reniers, A. J. H. M.

2017-12-01

Many low-elevation, coral reef-lined, tropical coasts are vulnerable to the effects of climate change, sea level rise, and wave-induced flooding. The considerable morphological diversity of these coasts and the variability of the hydrodynamic forcing that they are exposed to make predicting wave-induced flooding a challenge. A process-based wave-resolving hydrodynamic model (XBeach Non-Hydrostatic, "XBNH") was used to create a large synthetic database for use in a "Bayesian Estimator for Wave Attack in Reef Environments" (BEWARE), relating incident hydrodynamics and coral reef geomorphology to coastal flooding hazards on reef-lined coasts. Building on previous work, BEWARE improves system understanding of reef hydrodynamics by examining the intrinsic reef and extrinsic forcing factors controlling runup and flooding on reef-lined coasts. The Bayesian estimator has high predictive skill for the XBNH model outputs that are flooding indicators, and was validated for a number of available field cases. It was found that, in order to accurately predict flooding hazards, water depth over the reef flat, incident wave conditions, and reef flat width are the most essential factors, whereas other factors such as beach slope and bed friction due to the presence or absence of corals are less important. BEWARE is a potentially powerful tool for use in early warning systems or risk assessment studies, and can be used to make projections about how wave-induced flooding on coral reef-lined coasts may change due to climate change.