Surface wave effects on water temperature in the Baltic Sea: simulations with the coupled NEMO-WAM model

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Alari, Victor; Staneva, Joanna; Breivik, Øyvind; Bidlot, Jean-Raymond; Mogensen, Kristian; Janssen, Peter

2016-08-01

Coupled circulation (NEMO) and wave model (WAM) system was used to study the effects of surface ocean waves on water temperature distribution and heat exchange at regional scale (the Baltic Sea). Four scenarios—including Stokes-Coriolis force, sea-state dependent energy flux (additional turbulent kinetic energy due to breaking waves), sea-state dependent momentum flux and the combination these forcings—were simulated to test the impact of different terms on simulated temperature distribution. The scenario simulations were compared to a control simulation, which included a constant wave-breaking coefficient, but otherwise was without any wave effects. The results indicate a pronounced effect of waves on surface temperature, on the distribution of vertical temperature and on upwelling's. Overall, when all three wave effects were accounted for, did the estimates of temperature improve compared to control simulation. During the summer, the wave-induced water temperature changes were up to 1 °C. In northern parts of the Baltic Sea, a warming of the surface layer occurs in the wave included simulations in summer months. This in turn reduces the cold bias between simulated and measured data, e.g. the control simulation was too cold compared to measurements. The warming is related to sea-state dependent energy flux. This implies that a spatio-temporally varying wave-breaking coefficient is necessary, because it depends on actual sea state. Wave-induced cooling is mostly observed in near-coastal areas and is the result of intensified upwelling in the scenario, when Stokes-Coriolis forcing is accounted for. Accounting for sea-state dependent momentum flux results in modified heat exchange at the water-air boundary which consequently leads to warming of surface water compared to control simulation.

Evaluating the role of higher order nonlinearity in water of finite and shallow depth with a direct numerical simulation method of Euler equations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Fernandez, L.; Toffoli, A.; Monbaliu, J.

2012-04-01

In deep water, the dynamics of surface gravity waves is dominated by the instability of wave packets to side band perturbations. This mechanism, which is a nonlinear third order in wave steepness effect, can lead to a particularly strong focusing of wave energy, which in turn results in the formation of waves of very large amplitude also known as freak or rogue waves [1]. In finite water depth, however, the interaction between waves and the ocean floor induces a mean current. This subtracts energy from wave instability and causes it to cease for relative water depth , where k is the wavenumber and h the water depth [2]. Yet, this contradicts field observations of extreme waves such as the infamous 26-m "New Year" wave that have mainly been recorded in regions of relatively shallow water . In this respect, recent studies [3] seem to suggest that higher order nonlinearity in water of finite depth may sustain instability. In order to assess the role of higher order nonlinearity in water of finite and shallow depth, here we use a Higher Order Spectral Method [4] to simulate the evolution of surface gravity waves according to the Euler equations of motion. This method is based on an expansion of the vertical velocity about the surface elevation under the assumption of weak nonlinearity and has a great advantage of allowing the activation or deactivation of different orders of nonlinearity. The model is constructed to deal with an arbitrary order of nonlinearity and water depths so that finite and shallow water regimes can be analyzed. Several wave configurations are considered with oblique and collinear with the primary waves disturbances and different water depths. The analysis confirms that nonlinearity higher than third order play a substantial role in the destabilization of a primary wave train and subsequent growth of side band perturbations.

Networks of triboelectric nanogenerators for harvesting water wave energy: a potential approach toward blue energy.

PubMed

Chen, Jun; Yang, Jin; Li, Zhaoling; Fan, Xing; Zi, Yunlong; Jing, Qingshen; Guo, Hengyu; Wen, Zhen; Pradel, Ken C; Niu, Simiao; Wang, Zhong Lin

2015-03-24

With 70% of the earth's surface covered with water, wave energy is abundant and has the potential to be one of the most environmentally benign forms of electric energy. However, owing to lack of effective technology, water wave energy harvesting is almost unexplored as an energy source. Here, we report a network design made of triboelectric nanogenerators (TENGs) for large-scale harvesting of kinetic water energy. Relying on surface charging effect between the conventional polymers and very thin layer of metal as electrodes for each TENG, the TENG networks (TENG-NW) that naturally float on the water surface convert the slow, random, and high-force oscillatory wave energy into electricity. On the basis of the measured output of a single TENG, the TENG-NW is expected to give an average power output of 1.15 MW from 1 km(2) surface area. Given the compelling features, such as being lightweight, extremely cost-effective, environmentally friendly, easily implemented, and capable of floating on the water surface, the TENG-NW renders an innovative and effective approach toward large-scale blue energy harvesting from the ocean.

Local amplification of seismic waves from the Denali earthquake and damaging seiches in Lake Union, Seattle, Washington

USGS Publications Warehouse

Barberopoulou, A.; Qamar, A.; Pratt, T.L.; Creager, K.C.; Steele, W.P.

2004-01-01

The Mw7.9 Denali, Alaska earthquake of 3 November, 2002, caused minor damage to at least 20 houseboats in Seattle, Washington by initiating water waves in Lake Union. These water waves were likely initiated during the large amplitude seismic surface waves from this earthquake. Maps of spectral amplification recorded during the Denali earthquake on the Pacific Northwest Seismic Network (PNSN) strong-motion instruments show substantially increased shear and surface wave amplitudes coincident with the Seattle sedimentary basin. Because Lake Union is situated on the Seattle basin, the size of the water waves may have been increased by local amplification of the seismic waves by the basin. Complete hazard assessments require understanding the causes of these water waves during future earthquakes. Copyright 2004 by the American Geophysical Union.

On the parameters influencing air-water gas exchange

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

JäHne, Bernd; Münnich, Karl Otto; BöSinger, Rainer; Dutzi, Alfred; Huber, Werner; Libner, Peter

1987-02-01

Detailed gas exchange measurements from two circular and one linear wind/wave tunnels are presented. Heat, He, CH4, CO2, Kr, and Xe have been used as tracers. The experiments show the central importance of waves for the water-side transfer process. With the onset of waves the Schmidt number dependence of the transfer velocity k changes from k ∝ Sc-⅔ to k ∝ Sc-½indicating a change in the boundary conditions at the surface. Moreover, energy put into the wave field by wind is transferred to near-surface turbulence enhancing gas transfer. The data show that the mean square slope of the waves is the best parameter to characterize the free wavy surface with respect to water-side transfer processes.

Reflected GPS Power for the Detection of Surface Roughness Patterns in Coastal Water

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Oertel, George, F.; Allen, Thomas R.

2000-01-01

Coastal bays formed by the barrier islands of Delaware, Maryland and Virginia are parts of a coastal region known as a "Coastal Compartment". The coastal compartment between the Chesapeake and Delaware Bays is actually the mosaic of landscapes on the headland of the interfluve that separates these large drainage basins. The coastal compartments form a variety of different-shaped waterways landward of the coastline. Shape differences along the boundaries produce differences in exposure to wind and waves. Different shoreface topographies seaward of the coastline also influence surface roughness by changing wave-refraction patterns. Surface-water roughness (caused by waves) is controlled by a number of parameters, including fetch, shielding, exposure corridors, water-mass boundary conditions, wetland vegetation and water depth in coastal bays. In the coastal ocean, surface roughness patterns are controlled by shoreface shoaling and inlet refraction patterns in the coastal ocean. Knowledge of wave phenomena in the nearshore and backbarrier areas is needed to understand how wave climate influences important ecosystems in estuaries and bays.

The laboratory investigation of surface envelope solitons: reflection from a vertical wall and collisions of solitons

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Slunyaev, Alexey; Klein, Marco; Clauss, Günther F.

2016-04-01

Envelope soliton solutions are key elements governing the nonlinear wave dynamics within a simplified theory for unidirectional weakly modulated weakly nonlinear wave groups on the water surface. Within integrable models the solitons preserve their structure in collisions with other waves; they do not disperse and can carry energy infinitively long. Steep and short soliton-like wave groups have been shown to exist in laboratory tests [1] and, even earlier, in numerical simulations [2, 3]. Thus, long-living wave groups may play important role in the dynamics of intense sea waves and wave-structure interactions. The solitary wave groups may change the wave statistics and can be taken into account when developing approaches for the deterministic forecasting of dangerous waves, including so-called rogue waves. An experimental campaign has been conducted in the wave basin of the Technical University of Berlin on simulations of intense solitary wave groups. The first successful experimental observation of intense envelope solitons took place in this facility [1]. The new experiments aimed at following main goals: 1) to reproduce intense envelope solitons with different carrier wave lengths; 2) to estimate the rate of envelope soliton dissipation; 3) to consider the reflection of envelope solitons on a vertical wall; 4) to consider head-on collisions of envelope solitons, and 5) to consider overtaking interactions of envelope solitons. Up to 9 wave gauges were used in each experimental run, which enabled registration of the surface movement at different distances from the wavemaker, at different locations across the wave flume and near the wall. Besides surface displacements, the group envelope shapes were directly recorded, with use of phase shifts applied to the modulated waves generated by the wavemaker. [1] A. Slunyaev, G.F. Clauss, M. Klein, M. Onorato, Simulations and experiments of short intense envelope solitons of surface water waves. Phys. Fluids 25, 067105 (2013). [2] A.I. Dyachenko, V.E. Zakharov, On the formation of freak waves on the surface of deep water. JETP Lett. 88, 307 (2008). [3] A.V. Slunyaev, Numerical simulation of "limiting" envelope solitons of gravity waves on deep water. JETP 109, 676 (2009).

Observations of internal waves in the Gulf of California by SEASAT SAR

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Fu, L. L.; Holt, B.

1983-01-01

Internal waves which are among the most commonly observed oceanic phenomena in the SEASAT SAR imagery are discussed. These waves are associated with the vertical displacements of constant water density surfaces in the ocean. Their amplitudes are maximum at depths where the water density changes most rapidly usually at depths from 50 to 100 m, whereas the horizontal currents associated with these waves are maximum at the sea surface where the resulting oscillatory currents modulate the sea surface roughness and produce the signatures detected by SAR.

Observations of internal waves in the Gulf of California by SEASAT SAR

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Fu, L. L.; Holt, B.

1983-07-01

Internal waves which are among the most commonly observed oceanic phenomena in the SEASAT SAR imagery are discussed. These waves are associated with the vertical displacements of constant water density surfaces in the ocean. Their amplitudes are maximum at depths where the water density changes most rapidly usually at depths from 50 to 100 m, whereas the horizontal currents associated with these waves are maximum at the sea surface where the resulting oscillatory currents modulate the sea surface roughness and produce the signatures detected by SAR.

Effect of transient wave forcing on the behavior of arsenic in a sandy nearshore aquifer

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Rakhimbekova, S.; O'Carroll, D. M.; Robinson, C. E.

2016-12-01

Waves cause large quantities of coastal water to recirculate across the groundwater-coastal water interface in addition to inducing complex groundwater flows in the nearshore aquifer. Due to the distinct chemical composition of recirculating coastal water compared with discharging terrestrial groundwater, wave-induced recirculations and flows can alter geochemical gradients in the nearshore aquifer which may subsequently affect the mobilization and transport of reactive pollutants (e.g., arsenic). The impact of seasonal geochemical and hydrological variability on the occurrence and mobility of arsenic near the groundwater-surface water interface has been shown previously in riverine settings, however, the impact of high frequency geochemical variations (e.g., varying wave conditions) on arsenic mobility in groundwater-surface water environments is unclear. The objective of the study was to assess the impact of intensified wave conditions on the behavior of arsenic in a nearshore aquifer to determine the factors regulating its mobility and transport to receiving coastal waters. Field investigations were conducted at a permeable beach on the Great Lakes during a period of intensified wave conditions (wave event). High spatial resolution pore water sampling captured the geochemical conditions in the nearshore aquifer prior to the wave event, immediately after the wave event and over a recovery period of 3 weeks following the wave event. Shifts in pH and redox potential (ORP) gradients in response to varying wave conditions caused shifts in the iron and arsenic distributions in the aquifer. Sediment analysis was combined with the pore water distributions to assess the release of sediment-bound arsenic in response to the varying wave conditions. Insight into the effect of transient forcing on arsenic mobility and transport in groundwater-surface water environments is important for evaluating the potential risks associated with this toxic metalloid. The findings of this study also have significant implications for the fate of other reactive constituents (heavy metals, nutrients) discharging through nearshore aquifers to coastal waters.

Aquatic burst locomotion by hydroplaning and paddling in common eiders (Somateria mollissima).

PubMed

Gough, William T; Farina, Stacy C; Fish, Frank E

2015-06-01

Common eiders (Somateria mollissima) are heavy sea-ducks that spend a large portion of their time swimming at the water surface. Surface swimming generates a bow and hull wave that can constructively interfere and produce wave drag. The speed at which the wavelengths of these waves equal the waterline length of the swimming animal is the hull speed. To increase surface swimming speed beyond the hull speed, an animal must overtake the bow wave. This study found two distinct behaviors that eider ducks used to exceed the hull speed: (1) 'steaming', which involved rapid oaring with the wings to propel the duck along the surface of the water, and (2) 'paddle-assisted flying', during which the ducks lifted their bodies out of the water and used their feet to paddle against the surface while flapping their wings in the air. An average hull speed (0.732±0.046 m s(-1)) was calculated for S. mollissima by measuring maximum waterline length from museum specimens. On average, steaming ducks swam 5.5 times faster and paddle-assisted flying ducks moved 6.8 times faster than the hull speed. During steaming, ducks exceeded the hull speed by increasing their body angle and generating dynamic lift to overcome wave drag and hydroplane along the water surface. During paddle-assisted flying, ducks kept their bodies out of the water, thereby avoiding the limitations of wave drag altogether. Both behaviors provided alternatives to flight for these ducks by allowing them to exceed the hull speed while staying at or near the water surface. © 2015. Published by The Company of Biologists Ltd.

The effect of artificial rain on backscattered acoustic signal: first measurements

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Titchenko, Yuriy; Karaev, Vladimir; Meshkov, Evgeny; Goldblat, Vladimir

The problem of rain influencing on a characteristics of backscattered ultrasonic and microwave signal by water surface is considered. The rain influence on backscattering process of electromagnetic waves was investigated in laboratory and field experiments, for example [1-3]. Raindrops have a significant impact on backscattering of microwave and influence on wave spectrum measurement accuracy by string wave gauge. This occurs due to presence of raindrops in atmosphere and modification of the water surface. For measurements of water surface characteristics during precipitation we propose to use an acoustic system. This allows us obtaining of the water surface parameters independently on precipitation in atmosphere. The measurements of significant wave height of water surface using underwater acoustical systems are well known [4, 5]. Moreover, the variance of orbital velocity can be measure using these systems. However, these methods cannot be used for measurements of slope variance and the other second statistical moments of water surface that required for analyzing the radar backscatter signal. An original design Doppler underwater acoustic wave gauge allows directly measuring the surface roughness characteristics that affect on electromagnetic waves backscattering of the same wavelength [6]. Acoustic wave gauge is Doppler ultrasonic sonar which is fixed near the bottom on the floating disk. Measurements are carried out at vertically orientation of sonar antennas towards water surface. The first experiments were conducted with the first model of an acoustic wave gauge. The acoustic wave gauge (8 mm wavelength) is equipped with a transceiving antenna with a wide symmetrical antenna pattern. The gauge allows us to measure Doppler spectrum and cross section of backscattered signal. Variance of orbital velocity vertical component can be retrieved from Doppler spectrum with high accuracy. The result of laboratory and field experiments during artificial rain is presented. The estimates of roughness parameters variability during precipitation are obtained. The first measurements of rain influencing on cross section and Doppler spectrum of backscattered acoustic signal was carried out. The obtained results were compared with calculations based on the theoretical model. Acknowledgments. The reported study was supported by RFBR, research project No. 14-05-31517 mol_a. References 1. Bliven Larry, Branger Hubert, Sobieski Piotr, Giovanangeli Jean-Paul, An analysis of scatterometer returns from a water surface agitated by artificial rain : evidence that ring-waves are the mean feature, Intl. Jl. of Remote Sensing, Vol. 14, n 12, 1993, pp. 2315-2329, 1993 2. Sobieski Piotr, Craeye Christophe, Bliven Larry, A Relationship Between Rain Radar Reflectivity and Height Elevation Variance of Ringwaves due to the Impact of Rain on the Sea Surface, Radio Science, AGU, 44, RS3005, 1-20, 2009 3. Weissman, D. E., and M. A. Bourassa, Measurements of the Effect of Rain-induced Sea Surface Roughness on the Satellite Scatterometer Radar Cross Section, IEEE Trans. Geosci. Remote Sens., 46, 2882-2894, 2008 4. B. Brumley, La Jolla, E.Terray, B.String, «System and method for measuring wave directional spectrum and wave height», USA Patent N US 2004/0184350 A1,23 September 2004 5. James H. Churchill, Albert J. Plueddemann, Stephen M. Faluotico, «Extracting Wind Sea and Swell from Directional Wave Spectra derived from a bottom-mounted ADCP», Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Technical Report WHOI-2006-13 6. V. Yu. Karaev, M. B. Kanevsky, E. M. Meshkov, Measuring the parameters of sea-surface roughness by underwater acoustic systems: discussion of the device concept, Radiophysics and Quantum Electronics, V. 53, I. 9-10. pp. 569-579, 2011

Experimental Observation of Dark Solitons on Water Surface

DTIC Science & Technology

2016-06-13

Experimental observation of dark solitons on water surface A. Chabchoub1,∗, O. Kimmoun2, H. Branger3, N. Hoffmann1, D. Proment4, M. Onorato4,5, and N...The shape and width of the soliton depend on the water depth, carrier frequency and the amplitude of the background wave. The experimental data...partic- ular, the governing equation describing the dynamics of weakly nonlinear and quasi -monochromatic waves prop- agating on the surface of water with

Surfing with capillary waves: a survival strategy for trapped bees

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Roh, Chris; Gharib, Morteza

2017-11-01

Honeybees are able to propel themselves at the water surface. A rapid vibration (30-220 Hz) of wings at the air-water interface results in a locomotion speed of 3-4 cm/s. A mechanism for generating thrust required for achieving and maintaining such speed must be different from their mechanism of flight inasmuch as they are in a different fluid environment. In this study, we present the thrust generating mechanism of the honeybee at the air-water interface. A close observation of the wing's interaction with the water surface showed that the wing does not penetrate nor detach from the water surface. Moreover, the stroke speed of the wing exceeds the minimum capillary wave speed, which signifies that the wing constantly generates the capillary wave by pulling on the surface with its wetted underside. Observation of such interaction suggests that honeybee's locomotion at the water surface resembles surfing on the self-generated capillary wave. A further evidence of described mechanism is explored by constructing a similarly sized mechanical model. This material is based upon work supported by the National Science Foundation under Grant No. CBET-1511414; additional support by the National Science Foundation Graduate Research Fellowship under Grant No. DGE-1144469.

Head wave correlations in ambient noise.

PubMed

Gebbie, John; Siderius, Martin

2016-07-01

Ambient ocean noise is processed with a vertical line array to reveal coherent time-separated arrivals suggesting the presence of head wave multipath propagation. Head waves, which are critically propagating water waves created by seabed waves traveling parallel to the water-sediment interface, can propagate faster than water-only waves. Such eigenrays are much weaker than water-only eigenrays, and are often completely overshadowed by them. Surface-generated noise is different whereby it amplifies the coherence between head waves and critically propagating water-only waves, which is measured by cross-correlating critically steered beams. This phenomenon is demonstrated both experimentally and with a full wave simulation.

Strait of Gibraltar as seen from STS-60

NASA Image and Video Library

1994-02-09

STS060-88-070 (3-11 Feb 1994) --- This view shows sunglint in the Strait of Gibralter. In this photograph a high pressure atmospheric system over the Iberian Peninsula has set the conditions for seeing a plankton bloom along the Moroccan coast in the Alboran Sea (Western Mediterranean) coastal counter current as well as illumining the influence of winds in the sunglint pattern near the Strait of Gibraltar. Where the water is ruffled from a wind gust, such as off Cadiz, Spain, the surface is less reflective and thus appears dark. A combination of the effects of the tide and the surface winds through the Strait of Gibraltar have created a unique sunglint pattern at the entrance of the Mediterranean. The Atlantic Ocean waters are flowing with the tide through the Strait of Gibraltar into the Mediterranean Sea and are probably smoothing out some of the smaller waves at the surface. The incoming tide generates internal waves as can be faintly seen in this photograph. The incoming relatively cooler, less dense Atlantic water flows over the warm, more saline Mediterranean water. As the tide moves into the Strait of Gibraltar it encounters the Camarinal Sill, which is like a cliff under the water, south of Camarinal Point, Spain. Internal waves are generated at this sill and they travel along the density boundary between the Atlantic water and the Mediterranean water masses. There is little evidence of the internal waves at the surface of the ocean. We can see them in spacecraft photography because of the sunglint which reflects off the different water layers in differential patterns. The internal waves also smooth out some of the bands of capillary waves at the surface. That is, the sun reflects more brightly from these smooth areas, showing the pattern of the underwater waves more prominently than do the surface waves. The Bay of Cadiz on the southwest coast of Spain, the Rock of Gibraltar, and the Moroccan coast are also beautifully illustrated in this photography. The focus for scientists, however, remains the high clarity and spatial resolution given by sunglint studies to physical phenomena in the ocean.

Method and apparatus for measuring surface contour on parts with elevated temperatures

DOEpatents

Horvath, Mark S.; Nance, Roy A.; Cohen, George H.; Fodor, George

1991-01-01

The invention is directed to a method and apparatus for measuring the surface contour of a test piece, such as the bow of a radioactive fuel rod, which is completely immersed in water. The invention utilizes ultrasonic technology and is capable of measuring surface contours of test pieces which are at a higher temperature than the surrounding water. The presence of a test piece at a higher temperature adversely affects the distance measurements by causing thermal variations in the water near the surface of the test piece. The contour measurements depend upon a constant temperature of the water in the path of the ultrasonic wave to provide a constant acoustical velocity (the measurement is made by the time of flight measurement for an ultrasonic wave). Therefore, any variations of water temperature near the surface will introduce errors degrading the measurement. The present invention overcomes these problems by assuring that the supply of water through which the ultrasonic waves travel is at a predetermined and constant temperature.

Response of water temperature to surface wave effects in the Baltic Sea: simulations with the coupled NEMO-WAM model

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Alari, Victor; Staneva, Joanna; Breivik, Øyvind; Bidlot, Jean-Raymond; Mogensen, Kristian; Janssen, Peter

2016-04-01

The effects of wind waves on the Baltic Sea water temperature has been studied by coupling the hydrodynamical model NEMO with the wave model WAM. The wave forcing terms that have been taken into consideration are: Stokes-Coriolis force, seastate dependent energy flux and sea-state dependent momentum flux. The combined role of these processes as well as their individual contributions on simulated temperature is analysed. The results indicate a pronounced effect of waves on surface temperature, on the distribution of vertical temperature and on upwellinǵs. In northern parts of the Baltic Sea a warming of the surface layer occurs in the wave included simulations. This in turn reduces the cold bias between simulated and measured data. The warming is primarily caused by sea-state dependent energy flux. Wave induced cooling is mostly observed in near coastal areas and is mainly due to Stokes-Coriolis forcing. The latter triggers effect of intensifying upwellings near the coasts, depending on the direction of the wind. The effect of sea-state dependent momentum flux is predominantly to warm the surface layer. During the summer the wave induced water temperature changes were up to 1 °C.

Light Meets Water in Nonlocal Media: Surface Tension Analogue in Optics

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Horikis, Theodoros P.; Frantzeskakis, Dimitrios J.

2017-06-01

Shallow water wave phenomena find their analogue in optics through a nonlocal nonlinear Schrödinger (NLS) model in 2 +1 dimensions. We identify an analogue of surface tension in optics, namely, a single parameter depending on the degree of nonlocality, which changes the sign of dispersion, much like surface tension does in the shallow water wave problem. Using multiscale expansions, we reduce the NLS model to a Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) equation, which is of the KPII (KPI) type, for strong (weak) nonlocality. We demonstrate the emergence of robust optical antidark solitons forming Y -, X -, and H -shaped wave patterns, which are approximated by colliding KPII line solitons, similar to those observed in shallow waters.

Light Meets Water in Nonlocal Media: Surface Tension Analogue in Optics.

PubMed

Horikis, Theodoros P; Frantzeskakis, Dimitrios J

2017-06-16

Shallow water wave phenomena find their analogue in optics through a nonlocal nonlinear Schrödinger (NLS) model in 2+1 dimensions. We identify an analogue of surface tension in optics, namely, a single parameter depending on the degree of nonlocality, which changes the sign of dispersion, much like surface tension does in the shallow water wave problem. Using multiscale expansions, we reduce the NLS model to a Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) equation, which is of the KPII (KPI) type, for strong (weak) nonlocality. We demonstrate the emergence of robust optical antidark solitons forming Y-, X-, and H-shaped wave patterns, which are approximated by colliding KPII line solitons, similar to those observed in shallow waters.

On periodic geophysical water flows with discontinuous vorticity in the equatorial f-plane approximation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Martin, Calin Iulian

2017-12-01

We are concerned here with geophysical water waves arising as the free surface of water flows governed by the f-plane approximation. Allowing for an arbitrary bounded discontinuous vorticity, we prove the existence of steady periodic two-dimensional waves of small amplitude. We illustrate the local bifurcation result by means of an analysis of the dispersion relation for a two-layered fluid consisting of a layer of constant non-zero vorticity γ1 adjacent to the surface situated above another layer of constant non-zero vorticity γ2≠γ1 adjacent to the bed. For certain vorticities γ1,γ2, we also provide estimates for the wave speed c in terms of the speed at the surface of the bifurcation inducing laminar flows. This article is part of the theme issue 'Nonlinear water waves'.

Influence of natural surfactants on short wind waves in the coastal Peruvian waters

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kiefhaber, D.; Zappa, C. J.; Jähne, B.

2015-07-01

Results from measurements of wave slope statistics during the R/V Meteor M91 cruise in the coastal upwelling regions off the coast of Peru are reported. Wave slope probability distributions were measured with an instrument based on the reflection of light at the water surface and a method very similar to the Cox and Munk (1954b) sun glitter technique. During the cruise, the mean square slope (mss) of the waves was found to be very variable, despite the limited range of encountered wind speeds. The Cox and Munk (1954b) parameterization for clean water is found to overestimate mss, but most measurements fall in the range spanned by their clean water and slick parameterizations. The observed variability of mss is attributed to the wave damping effect of surface films, generated by increased biological production in the upwelling zones. The small footprint and high temporal resolution of the measurement allows for tracking abrupt changes in conditions caused by the often patchy structure of the surface films.

Modeling Water Waves with Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics

DTIC Science & Technology

2011-09-30

Lagrangian nature of SPH allows the modeling of wave breaking, surf zones, ship waves, and wave-structure interaction, where the free surface becomes...particle detection--To study free surface flows and analyze their complex deformations, we need to know which particles are located on the free surface ...Hydrodynamics is proving to be a competent modeling scheme for free surface flows in two and three dimensions. As the GPU hardware improves, it is

Impact of plunging breaking waves on a partially submerged cube

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wang, A.; Ikeda, C.; Duncan, J. H.

2013-11-01

The impact of a deep-water plunging breaking wave on a partially submerged cube is studied experimentally in a tank that is 14.8 m long and 1.2 m wide with a water depth of 0.91 m. The breakers are created from dispersively focused wave packets generated by a programmable wave maker. The water surface profile in the vertical center plane of the cube is measured using a cinematic laser-induced fluorescence technique with movie frame rates ranging from 300 to 4,500 Hz. The pressure distribution on the front face of the cube is measured with 24 fast-response sensors simultaneously with the wave profile measurements. The cube is positioned vertically at three heights relative to the mean water level and horizontally at a distance from the wave maker where a strong vertical water jet is formed. The portion of the water surface between the contact point on the front face of the cube and the wave crest is fitted with a circular arc and the radius and vertical position of the fitted circle is tracked during the impact. The vertical acceleration of the contact point reaches more than 50 times the acceleration of gravity and the pressure distribution just below the free surface shows a localized high-pressure region with a very high vertical pressure gradient. This work is supported by the Office of Naval Research under grant N000141110095.

Imaging across the interface of small-scale breaking waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Techet, Alexandra H.; Belden, Jesse L.

2007-11-01

Flow characteristics on both the air and water side of small scale spilling and plunging waves are investigated using fully time-resolved particle image velocimetry (PIV). PIV at 1000 frames per second (fps) is used to capture the flow field in both the air and water for waves generated by shoaling. Reynolds number of the waves is on the order of Re = 9x10^4 to 2x10^6, where Re = ρ√g 3̂μ, ρ is fluid density, μ is fluid dynamic viscosity, g is gravity, and λ is the characteristic wavelength of the breaking wave before breaking. Isopropyl alcohol is mixed with the distilled water in the tank to reduce surface tension and thus achieve plunging breakers on this scale. Flow in the water is seeded using conventional silver-coated hollow glass spheres, whereas the quiescent air side (i.e. no wind) is seeded using micro-air balloons with high stokes drag and thus long settling times. Imaging of both the air and water are performed simultaneously and advanced image processing is performed to determine the water surface location and to avoid surface tracking during PIV processing. Repeatable, coherent vortical structures are revealed on the air-side of the waves and are considered mechanisms for energy transfer across the interface.

Strait of Gibraltar as seen from STS-58

NASA Image and Video Library

1993-10-20

STS058-73-009 (18 Oct-1 Nov 1993) --- Atlantic water flowing with the tide through the Strait of Gibraltar into the Mediterranean generates internal waves as depicted in this photo. The incoming cool, less dense Atlantic water flows over the warm, more saline Mediterranean water. As the tide moves into the Strait of Gibraltar it encounters the Camarinal Sill, which is like a cliff under water, south of Camarinal Point, Spain. Internal waves are generated at the Sill and travel along the density boundary between the Atlantic water and the Mediterranean water. Internal waves have very little effect on the sea surface, except for gentle slopes and slight differences in roughness. We can see them in the Space Shuttle photos because of sunglint which reflects off the water. Internal waves smooth out some of the capillary waves at the surface in bands. The sun reflects more brightly from these smooth areas showing us the pattern of the underwater waves. The Bay of Cadiz on the southwest coast of Spain, the Rock of Gibraltar, and the Moroccan coast are also visible in this photo.

Development of wave and surge atlases for the design and protection of coastal bridges in South Louisiana.

DOT National Transportation Integrated Search

2011-05-01

The objectives of this proposed research are to: 1. Develop a 100-year design. a. maximum water surface elevation and associated wave height, b. maximum wave height and associated water elevation atlases for South Louisiana coastal waters. 2. Obtain ...

On periodic geophysical water flows with discontinuous vorticity in the equatorial f-plane approximation.

PubMed

Martin, Calin Iulian

2018-01-28

We are concerned here with geophysical water waves arising as the free surface of water flows governed by the f -plane approximation. Allowing for an arbitrary bounded discontinuous vorticity, we prove the existence of steady periodic two-dimensional waves of small amplitude. We illustrate the local bifurcation result by means of an analysis of the dispersion relation for a two-layered fluid consisting of a layer of constant non-zero vorticity γ 1 adjacent to the surface situated above another layer of constant non-zero vorticity γ 2 ≠ γ 1 adjacent to the bed. For certain vorticities γ 1 , γ 2 , we also provide estimates for the wave speed c in terms of the speed at the surface of the bifurcation inducing laminar flows.This article is part of the theme issue 'Nonlinear water waves'. © 2017 The Author(s).

Hybrid Eulerian and Lagrangian Simulation of Steep and Breaking Waves and Surface Fluxes in High Winds

DTIC Science & Technology

2012-09-30

Lagrangian methods for free - surface turbulence and wave simulation . In the far field, coupled wind and wave simulations are used to obtain wind...to conserve the mass precisely. When the wave breaks, the flow at the free surface may become very violent, air and water may be highly mixed...fluids free - surface flows that can be used to study the fundamental physics of wave breaking. The research will improve the understanding of air-sea

Frequency lock-in and phase synchronization of vortex shedding behind circular cylinder due to surface waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gunnoo, Hans; Abcha, Nizar; Ezersky, Alexander

2016-02-01

The influence of harmonic surface wave on non-regular Karman Vortex Street is investigated. In our experiments, Karman Street arises behind a vertical circular cylinder in a water flow and harmonic surface waves propagating upstream. It is found that surface waves can modify regimes of shedding in Karman Street: frequency lock-in and synchronization of vortex shedding can arise. Intensive surface waves can excite symmetric vortex street instead of chess-like street, and completely suppress shedding behind the cylinder. It is shown experimentally that such effects occur if frequency of harmonic surface wave is approximately twice higher than the frequency of vortex shedding. Region of frequency lock-in is found on the plane amplitude-frequency of surface wave.

Shock wave-droplet interaction

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Habibi Khoshmehr, Hamed; Krechetnikov, Rouslan

2016-11-01

Disintegration of a liquid droplet under the action of a shock wave is experimentally investigated. The shock wave-pulse is electromagnetically generated by discharging a high voltage capacitor into a flat spiral coil, above which an isolated circular metal membrane is placed in a close proximity. The Lorentz force arising due to the eddy current induced in the membrane abruptly accelerates it away from the spiral coil thus generating a shock wave. The liquid droplet placed at the center of the membrane, where the maximum deflection occurs, is disintegrated in the process of interaction with the shock wave. The effects of droplet viscosity and surface tension on the droplet destruction are studied with high-speed photography. Water-glycerol solution at different concentrations is used for investigating the effect of viscosity and various concentrations of water-sugar and water-ethanol solution are used for studying the effect of surface tension. Here we report on how the metamorphoses, which a liquid drop undergoes in the process of interaction with a shock wave, are affected by varied viscosity and surface tension.

Liquid-surface entrainment induced by shocked air stream

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Rodriguez, V.; Jourdan, G.; Marty, A.; Allou, A.; Parisse, J.-D.

2018-02-01

Recently, we experimentally studied, in a shock tube environment, shock waves propagating over horizontal free water layers having depths of 10, 20, and 30 mm for shock wave Mach numbers M_is equal to 1.1 and 1.4. The qualitative interaction process was observed by means of high-speed visualizations, and the pressures arising in the air and in the water layer were measured and interpreted in terms of the various incident and refracted shock waves in air and water; in particular, it was concluded that the compression wave in the water is driven by the planar shock wave in the air. Additional experiments have been conducted and the novel contributions of the present technical note are quantitative results regarding the liquid-surface entrainment. At low Mach number (M_is=1.1 ), we show that the velocity of the droplets ejected into the air is independent of the water depth, unlike the wavelength of initial ripples and the angle of ejection. When the shock wave strength increases (M_is=1.4 ), the dispersion of a very thin droplet mist and a single large wave take place. We show that the thickening of the water mist and the velocity of the subsequent large wave decreases with the water-layer depth.

An Eulerian two-phase flow model for sediment transport under realistic surface waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hsu, T. J.; Kim, Y.; Cheng, Z.; Chauchat, J.

2017-12-01

Wave-driven sediment transport is of major importance in driving beach morphology. However, the complex mechanisms associated with unsteadiness, free-surface effects, and wave-breaking turbulence have not been fully understood. Particularly, most existing models for sediment transport adopt bottom boundary layer approximation that mimics the flow condition in oscillating water tunnel (U-tube). However, it is well-known that there are key differences in sediment transport when comparing to large wave flume datasets, although the number of wave flume experiments are relatively limited regardless of its importance. Thus, a numerical model which can resolve the entire water column from the bottom boundary layer to the free surface can be a powerful tool. This study reports an on-going effort to better understand and quantify sediment transport under shoaling and breaking surface waves through the creation of open-source numerical models in the OpenFOAM framework. An Eulerian two-phase flow model, SedFoam (Cheng et al., 2017, Coastal Eng.) is fully coupled with a volume-of-fluid solver, interFoam/waves2Foam (Jacobsen et al., 2011, Int. J. Num. Fluid). The fully coupled model, named SedWaveFoam, regards the air and water phases as two immiscible fluids with the interfaces evolution resolved, and the sediment particles as dispersed phase. We carried out model-data comparisons with the large wave flume sheet flow data for nonbreaking waves reported by Dohmen-Janssen and Hanes (2002, J. Geophysical Res.) and good agreements were obtained for sediment concentration and net transport rate. By further simulating a case without free-surface (mimic U-tube condition), the effects of free-surface, most notably the boundary layer streaming effect on total transport, can be quantified.

Oceanographic, Air-sea Interaction, and Environmental Aspects of Artificial Upwelling Produced by Wave-Inertia Pumps for Potential Hurricane Intensity Mitigation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Soloviev, A.; Dean, C.

2017-12-01

The artificial upwelling system consisting of the wave-inertia pumps driven by surface waves can produce flow of cold deep water to the surface. One of the recently proposed potential applications of the artificial upwelling system is the hurricane intensity mitigation. Even relatively small reduction of intensity may provide significant benefits. The ocean heat content (OHC) is the "fuel" for hurricanes. The OHC can be reduced by mixing of the surface layer with the cold water produced by wave-inertia pumps. Implementation of this system for hurricane mitigation has several oceanographic and air-sea interaction aspects. The cold water brought to the surface from a deeper layer has higher density than the surface water and, therefore, tends to sink back down. The mixing of the cold water produced by artificial upwelling depends on environmental conditions such as stratification, regional ocean circulation, and vertical shear. Another aspect is that as the sea surface temperature drops below the air temperature, the stable stratification develops in the atmospheric boundary layer. The stable atmospheric stratification suppresses sensible and latent heat air-sea fluxes and reduces the net longwave irradiance from the sea surface. As a result, the artificial upwelling may start increasing the OHC (though still reducing the sea surface temperature). In this work, the fate of the cold water in the stratified environment with vertical shear has been studied using computational fluid dynamics (CFD) tools. A 3D large eddy simulation model is initialized with observational temperature, salinity, and current velocity data from a sample location in the Straits of Florida. A periodic boundary condition is set along the direction of the current, which allows us to simulate infinite fetch. The model results indicate that the cold water brought to the sea surface by a wave-inertia pump forms a convective jet. This jet plunges into the upper ocean mixed layer and penetrates the thermocline. On the way down, the jet partially mixes with the surrounding water reducing the temperature of the upper ocean. The OHC thus can either reduce or increase, depending on the wave-inertia pump parameters. Based on the model results, we discuss feasibility of the implementation of the artificial upwelling system for hurricane intensity mitigation.

2D instabilities of surface gravity waves on a linear shear current

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Francius, Marc; Kharif, Christian

2016-04-01

Periodic 2D surface water waves propagating steadily on a rotational current have been studied by many authors (see [1] and references therein). Although the recent important theoretical developments have confirmed that periodic waves can exist over flows with arbitrary vorticity, their stability and their nonlinear evolution have not been much studied extensively so far. In fact, even in the rather simple case of uniform vorticity (linear shear), few papers have been published on the effect of a vertical shear current on the side-band instability of a uniform wave train over finite depth. In most of these studies [2-5], asymptotic expansions and multiple scales method have been used to obtain envelope evolution equations, which allow eventually to formulate a condition of (linear) instability to long modulational perturbations. It is noted here that this instability is often referred in the literature as the Benjamin-Feir or modulational instability. In the present study, we consider the linear stability of finite amplitude two-dimensional, periodic water waves propagating steadily on the free surface of a fluid with constant vorticity and finite depth. First, the steadily propagating surface waves are computed with steepness up to very close to the highest, using a Fourier series expansions and a collocation method, which constitutes a simple extension of Fenton's method [6] to the cases with a linear shear current. Then, the linear stability of these permanent waves to infinitesimal 2D perturbations is developed from the fully nonlinear equations in the framework of normal modes analysis. This linear stability analysis is an extension of [7] to the case of waves in the presence of a linear shear current and permits the determination of the dominant instability as a function of depth and vorticity for a given steepness. The numerical results are used to assess the accuracy of the vor-NLS equation derived in [5] for the characteristics of modulational instabilities due to resonant four-wave interactions, as well as to study the influence of vorticity and nonlinearity on the characteristics of linear instabilities due to resonant five-wave and six-wave interactions. Depending on the dimensionless depth, superharmonic instabilities due to five-wave interactions can become dominant with increasing positive vorticiy. Acknowledgments: This work was supported by the Direction Générale de l'Armement and funded by the ANR project n°. ANR-13-ASTR-0007. References [1] A. Constantin, Two-dimensionality of gravity water flows of constant non-zero vorticity beneath a surface wave train, Eur. J. Mech. B/Fluids, 2011, 30, 12-16. [2] R. S. Johnson, On the modulation of water waves on shear flows, Proc. Royal Soc. Lond. A., 1976, 347, 537-546. [3] M. Oikawa, K. Chow, D. J. Benney, The propagation of nonlinear wave packets in a shear flow with a free surface, Stud. Appl. Math., 1987, 76, 69-92. [4] A. I Baumstein, Modulation of gravity waves with shear in water, Stud. Appl. Math., 1998, 100, 365-90. [5] R. Thomas, C. Kharif, M. Manna, A nonlinear Schrödinger equation for water waves on finite depth with constant vorticity, Phys. Fluids, 2012, 24, 127102. [6] M. M Rienecker, J. D Fenton, A Fourier approximation method for steady water waves , J. Fluid Mech., 1981, 104, 119-137 [7] M. Francius, C. Kharif, Three-dimensional instabilities of periodic gravity waves in shallow water, J. Fluid Mech., 2006, 561, 417-437

Laser probe for measuring 2-D wave slope spectra of ocean capillary waves

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Palm, C. S.; Anderson, R. C.; Reece, A. M.

1977-01-01

A laser-optical instrument for use in determining the two-dimensional wave-slope spectrum of ocean capillary waves is described. The instrument measures up to a 35-deg tip angle of the surface normal by measuring the position of a refracted laser beam directed vertically upward through a water surface. A telescope, a continuous two-dimensional Schottky barrier photodiode, and a pair of analog dividers render the signals independent of water height and insensitive to laser-beam intensity fluctuations. Calibration is performed entirely in the laboratory before field use. Sample records and wave-slope spectra are shown for one-dimensional wave-tank tests and for two-dimensional ocean tests. These are presented along with comparison spectra for calm and choppy water conditions. A mechanical wave follower was used to adjust the instrument position in the presence of large ocean swell and tides.

Relationship between wind, waves and radar backscatter

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Katsaros, Kristina B.; Ataktuerk, Serhad S.

1991-01-01

The aim of the research was to investigate the relationship between wind, waves, and radar backscatter from water surface. To this end, three field experiments with periods of 2 to 4 weeks were carried out during summer months in 1988, 1989 and 1990. For these periods, the University of Washington group provided (1) environmental parameters such as wind speed, wind stress, and atmospheric stratification through measurements of surface fluxes (of momentum, sensible heat and latent heat) and of air and water temperatures; and (2) wave height spectra including both the dominant waves and the short gravity-capillary waves. Surface flux measurements were performed by using our well tested instruments: a K-Gill twin propeller-vane anemometer and a fast response thermocouple psychrometer. Wave heights were measured by a resistance wire wave gauge. The University of Kansas group was responsible for the operation of the microwave radars.

Signatures of Air-Wave Interactions Over a Large Lake

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Li, Qi; Bou-Zeid, Elie; Vercauteren, Nikki; Parlange, Marc

2018-06-01

The air-water exchange of momentum and scalars (temperature and water vapour) is investigated using the Lake-Atmosphere Turbulent EXchange (LATEX) dataset. The wind waves and swell are found to affect the coupling between the water surface and the air differently. The surface-stress vector aligns with the wind velocity in the presence of wind waves, but a wide range of stress-wind misalignment angles is observed during swell. The momentum transport efficiency decreases when significant stress-wind misalignment is present, suggesting a strong influence of surface wave properties on surface drag. Based on this improved understanding of the role of wave-wind misalignment, a new relative wind speed for surface-layer similarity formulations is proposed and tested using the data. The new expression yields a value of the von Kármán constant (κ ) of 0.38, compared to 0.36 when using the absolute wind speed, as well as reduced data fitting errors. Finally, the ratios of aerodynamic to scalar roughness lengths are computed and various existing models in the literature are tested using least-square fitting to the observed ratios. The tests are able to discriminate between the performance of various models; however, they also indicate that more investigations are required to understand the physics of scalar exchanges over waves.

Rough surface wavelength measurement through self mixing of Doppler microwave backscatter. [from ocean waves

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Weissman, D. E.; Johnson, J. W.

1979-01-01

A microwave backscatter technique is presented that has the ability to sense the dominant surface wavelength of a random rough surface. The purpose of this technique is to perform this measurement from an aircraft or spacecraft, wherein the horizontal velocity of the radar is an important parameter of the measurement system. Attention will be directed at water surface conditions for which a dominant wavelength can be defined, then the spatial variations of reflectivity will have a two dimensional spectrum that is sufficiently close to that of waves to be useful. The measurement concept is based on the relative motion between the water waves and a nadir looking radar, and the fact that while the instantaneous Doppler frequency at the receiver returned by any elementary group of scatterers on a water wave is monotonically changing, the difference in the Doppler frequency between any two scattering 'patches' stays approximately constant as these waves travel parallel to the major axis of an elliptical antenna footprint. The results of a theoretical analysis and a laboratory experiment with a continuous wave (CW) radar that encompasses several of the largest waves in the illuminated area show how the structure in the Doppler spectrum of the backscattered signal is related to the surface spectrum and its parameters in an especially direct and simple way when an incoherent envelope detector is the receiver.

Investigation of Surface Waves in Deep and Shallow Water using Coherent Radars at Grazing Incidence

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Buckley, M.; Horstmann, J.; Carrasco, R.; Seemann, J.; Stresser, M.

2016-02-01

Coherent microwave radars operating at X-band near grazing incidence are utilized to measure the backscatter intensity and Doppler velocity from the small-scale surface roughness of the ocean. The radar backscatter is dependent on the wind and strongly modulated by the surface waves and therefore enables to retrieve the surface wind as well as surface waves. The radar measured Doppler velocities are also modulated by contributions from the wind, current and waves and allow getting additional information on these parameters. In addition coherent marine radars allow to observe breaking waves, which lead to a increase in radar backscatter as well as a strong change of the Doppler speed.Within this presentation we will introduce and validate new methods to measure spectral wave properties such as wave directions, periods and significant wave height from coherent marine radars. The methods have been applied in deep and shallow water and validated to measurements of directional wave riders as well as an Acoustic Wave and Current Profiler. These comparisons show an overall excellent performance of coherent radars for the retrieval of spectral wave properties (e.g. Hs rms of 0.2 m). Furthermore, new methodologies will be presented that enable to observe and quantify wave breaking in deep water as well as in the littoral zone. The above mentioned methods have been applied to investigate the influence of Offshore Wind Farms (OWF) on the wave field with respect to the spectral properties as well as the amount of wave breaking. We will present the results obtained during a cruise in May 2015 within and around the OWF Dantysk in the German Bight of the North Sea, which consist of eighty 3.5 MW wind turbines. In addition we will present our initial results on the investigation of wave dissipation in the littoral zone at the coast of the island Sylt using marine radars, pressure gauges as well as directional wave riders.

A study of rain effects on radar scattering from water waves

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Bliven, Larry F.; Giovanangeli, Jean-Paul; Norcross, George

1988-01-01

Results are presented from a laboratory investigation of microwave power return due to rain-generated short waves on a wind wave surface. The wind wave tank, sensor, and data processing methods used in the study are described. The study focuses on the response of a 36-GHz radar system, orientated 30 deg from nadir and pointing upwind, to surface waves generated by various combinations of rain and wind. The results show stronger radar signal levels due to short surface waves generated by rain impacting the wind wave surface, supporting the results of Moore et al. (1979) for a 14-GHz radar.

Sedimentary structures formed under water surface waves: examples from a sediment-laden flash flood observed by remote camer

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Froude, Melanie; Alexander, Jan; Cole, Paul; Barclay, Jenni

2014-05-01

On 13-14 October 2012, Tropical Storm Rafael triggered sediment-laden flash floods in the Belham Valley on Montserrat, West Indies. Rainfall was continuous for ~38 hours and intensity peaked at 48 mm/hr. Flow was strongly unsteady, turbulent with sediment concentrations varying up to hyperconcentrated. Time-lapse images captured at >1 frame per second by remote camera overlooking a surveyed valley section show the development of trains of water surface waves at multiple channel locations during different flow stages. Waves grew and diminished in height and remained stationary or migrated upstream. Trains of waves persisted for <5 minutes, until a single wave broke, sometimes initiating the breaking of adjacent waves within the train. Channel-wide surges (bores) propagating downstream with distinct turbulent flow fronts, were observed at irregular intervals during and up to 7 hours after peak stage. These bores are mechanically similar to breaking front tidal bores and arid flood bores, and resulted in a sudden increase in flow depth and velocity. When a bore front came into close proximity (within ~10 m) upstream of a train of water surface waves, the waves appeared to break simultaneously generating a localised surge of water upstream, that was covered by the bore travelling downstream. Those trains in which waves did not break during the passage of a bore temporarily reduced in height. In both cases, water surface waves reformed immediately after the surge in the same location. Deposits from the event, were examined in <4 m deep trenches ~0.5 km downstream of the remote camera. These contained laterally extensive lenticular and sheet-like units comprised of varying admixtures of sand and gravel that are attributed to antidunes, and associated transitions from upper-stage-plane-beds. Some of the structures are organised within concave upward sequences which contain downflow shifts between foreset and backset laminae; interpreted as trough fills from chute-and-pools or water surface wave breaking. At least 90% of the deposit is interpreted upper flow regime origin. The sequence, geometry and lamina-scale texture of the sedimentary structures will be discussed with reference to remote camera images of rapidly varying, unsteady and pulsatory flow behaviour.

The characteristics and dynamics of wave-driven flow across a platform coral reef in the Red Sea

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lentz, S. J.; Churchill, J. H.; Davis, K. A.; Farrar, J. T.; Pineda, J.; Starczak, V.

2016-02-01

Current dynamics across a platform reef in the Red Sea near Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, are examined using 18 months of current profile, pressure, surface wave, and wind observations. The platform reef is 700 m long, 200 m across with spatial and temporal variations in water depth over the reef ranging from 0.6 to 1.6 m. Surface waves breaking at the seaward edge of the reef cause a 2-10 cm setup of sea level that drives cross-reef currents of 5-20 cm s-1. Bottom stress is a significant component of the wave setup balance in the surf zone. Over the reef flat, where waves are not breaking, the cross-reef pressure gradient associated with wave setup is balanced by bottom stress. The quadratic drag coefficient for the depth-average flow decreases with increasing water depth from Cda = 0.17 in 0.4 m of water to Cda = 0.03 in 1.2 m of water. The observed dependence of the drag coefficient on water depth is consistent with open-channel flow theory and a hydrodynamic roughness of zo = 0.06 m. A simple one-dimensional model driven by incident surface waves and wind stress accurately reproduces the observed depth-averaged cross-reef currents and a portion of the weaker along-reef currents over the focus reef and two other Red Sea platform reefs. The model indicates the cross-reef current is wave forced and the along-reef current is partially wind forced.

Internal Waves and Wave Attractors in Enceladus' Subsurface Ocean

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

van Oers, A. M.; Maas, L. R.; Vermeersen, B. L. A.

2016-12-01

One of the most peculiar features on Saturn moon Enceladus is its so-called tiger stripe pattern at the geologically active South Polar Terrain (SPT), as first observed in detail by the Cassini spacecraft early 2005. It is generally assumed that the four almost parallel surface lines that constitute this pattern are faults in the icy surface overlying a confined salty water reservoir. In 2013, we formulated the original idea [Vermeersen et al., AGU Fall Meeting 2013, abstract #P53B-1848] that the tiger stripe pattern is formed and maintained by induced, tidally and rotationally driven, wave-attractor motions in the ocean underneath the icy surface of the tiger-stripe region. Such wave-attractor motions are observed in water tank experiments in laboratories on Earth and in numerical experiments [Maas et al., Nature, 338, 557-561, 1997; Drijfhout and Maas, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 37, 2740-2763, 2007; Hazewinkel et al., Phys. Fluids, 22, 107102, 2010]. Numerical simulations show the persistence of wave attractors for a range of ocean shapes and stratifications. The intensification of the wave field near the location of the surface reflections of wave attractors has been numerically and experimentally confirmed. We measured the forces a wave attractor exerts on a solid surface, near a reflection point. These reflection points would correspond to the location of the tiger stripes. Combining experiments and numerical simulations we conclude that (1) wave attractors can exist in Enceladus' subsurface sea, (2) their shape can be matched to the tiger stripes, (3) the wave attractors cause a localized force at the water-ice boundaries, (4) this force could have been large enough to contribute to fracturing the ice and (5) the wave attractors localize energy (and particles) and cause dissipation along its path, helping explain Enceladus' enigmatic heat output at the tiger stripes.

On the Impact Between a Water Free Surface and a Rigid Structure

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wang, An

In this thesis, the impact between a water surface and a structure is addressed in two related experiments. In the first experiment, the impact of a plunging breaking wave on a partially submerged 2D structure is studied. The evolution of the water surface profiles are measured with with a cinematic laser-induced flourescence technique, while the pressure distribution on the wall is measured simultaneously with an array of fast-response pressure sensors. When the structure is placed at a particular streamwise location in the wave tank and the bottom surface of the structure is located 13.3 cm below the mean water level, a ''flip-through'' impact occurs. In this case, the water surface profile between the crest and the front face of the structure is found to shrink to a point as the wave approaches the structure without breaking. High acceleration of the contact point motion is observed in this case. When the bottom of the structure is located at the mean water level, high-frequency pressure oscillations are observed. These pressure oscillations are believed to be caused by air that is entrapped near the wave crest during the impact process. When the bottom of the structure is sufficiently far above the mean water level, the first contact with the structure is the impact between the wave crest and the bottom corner of the structure. This latter condition, produces the largest impact pressures on the structure. In the second experiment, the slamming of a flat plate on a quiescent water surface is studied. A two-axis high-speed carriage is used to slam a flat plate on the water surface with high horizontal and vertical velocity. The above-mentioned LIF system is used to measure the evolution of the free surface adjacent to the plate. Measurements are performed with the horizontal and vertical carriage speeds ranging from zero to 6 m/s and 0.6 to 1.2 m/s, respectively, and the plate oriented obliquely to horizontal. Two types of splash are found, a spray of droplets and ligaments that is ejected horizontally from under the plate in the beginning of the impact process and a highly sloped spray sheet that is ejected later when the high edge of the plate moves below the water surface. Detailed measurements of these features are presented and simple models are used to interpret the data.

Electromagnetic backscattering from freak waves in (1 + 1)-dimensional deep-water

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Xie, Tao; Shen, Tao; William, Perrie; Chen, Wei; Kuang, Hai-Lan

2010-05-01

To study the electromagnetic (EM) backscatter characteristics of freak waves at moderate incidence angles, we establish an EM backscattering model for freak waves in (1 + 1)-dimensional deep water. The nonlinear interaction between freak waves and Bragg short waves is considered to be the basic hydrodynamic spectra modulation mechanism in the model. Numerical results suggest that the EM backscattering intensities of freak waves are less than those from the background sea surface at moderate incidence angles. The normalised radar cross sections (NRCSs) from freak waves are highly polarisation dependent, even at low incidence angles, which is different from the situation for normal sea waves; moreover, the NRCS of freak waves is more polarisation dependent than the background sea surface. NRCS discrepancies between freak waves and the background sea surface with using horizontal transmitting horizomtal (HH) polarisation are larger than those using vertical transmitting vertical (VV) polarisation, at moderate incident angles. NRCS discrepancies between freak waves and background sea surface decreases with the increase of incidence angle, in both HH and VV polarisation radars. As an application, in the synthetic-aperture radar (SAR) imaging of freak waves, we suggest that freak waves should have extremely low backscatter NRCSs for the freak wave facet with the strongest slope. Compared with the background sea surface, the freak waves should be darker in HH polarisation echo images than in VV echo images, in SAR images. Freak waves can be more easily detected from the background sea surface in HH polarisation images than in VV polarisation images. The possibility of detection of freak waves at low incidence angles is much higher than at high incidence angles.

Generalized analytical model for benthic water flux forced by surface gravity waves

USGS Publications Warehouse

King, J.N.; Mehta, A.J.; Dean, R.G.

2009-01-01

A generalized analytical model for benthic water flux forced by linear surface gravity waves over a series of layered hydrogeologic units is developed by adapting a previous solution for a hydrogeologic unit with an infinite thickness (Case I) to a unit with a finite thickness (Case II) and to a dual-unit system (Case III). The model compares favorably with laboratory observations. The amplitude of wave-forced benthic water flux is shown to be directly proportional to the amplitude of the wave, the permeability of the hydrogeologic unit, and the wave number and inversely proportional to the kinematic viscosity of water. A dimensionless amplitude parameter is introduced and shown to reach a maximum where the product of water depth and the wave number is 1.2. Submarine groundwater discharge (SGD) is a benthic water discharge flux to a marine water body. The Case I model estimates an 11.5-cm/d SGD forced by a wave with a 1 s period and 5-cm amplitude in water that is 0.5-m deep. As this wave propagates into a region with a 0.3-m-thick hydrogeologic unit, with a no-flow bottom boundary, the Case II model estimates a 9.7-cm/d wave-forced SGD. As this wave propagates into a region with a 0.2-m-thick hydrogeologic unit over an infinitely thick, more permeable unit, the Case III quasi-confined model estimates a 15.7-cm/d wave-forced SGD. The quasi-confined model has benthic constituent flux implications in coral reef, karst, and clastic regions. Waves may undermine tracer and seepage meter estimates of SGD at some locations. Copyright 2009 by the American Geophysical Union.

Polarized reflectance and transmittance properties of windblown sea surfaces.

PubMed

Mobley, Curtis D

2015-05-20

Generation of random sea surfaces using wave variance spectra and Fourier transforms is formulated in a way that guarantees conservation of wave energy and fully resolves wave height and slope variances. Monte Carlo polarized ray tracing, which accounts for multiple scattering between light rays and wave facets, is used to compute effective Mueller matrices for reflection and transmission of air- or water-incident polarized radiance. Irradiance reflectances computed using a Rayleigh sky radiance distribution, sea surfaces generated with Cox-Munk statistics, and unpolarized ray tracing differ by 10%-18% compared with values computed using elevation- and slope-resolving surfaces and polarized ray tracing. Radiance reflectance factors, as used to estimate water-leaving radiance from measured upwelling and sky radiances, are shown to depend on sky polarization, and improved values are given.

Earth Observation

NASA Image and Video Library

2013-06-24

ISS036-E-011843 (24 June 2013) --- Gravity waves and sunglint on Lake Superior are featured in this image photographed by an Expedition 36 crew member on the International Space Station. From the vantage point of the space station, crew members frequently observe Earth atmospheric and surface phenomena in ways impossible to view from the ground. Two such phenomena?gravity waves and sunglint?are illustrated in this photograph of northeastern Lake Superior. The Canadian Shield of southern Ontario (bottom) is covered with extensive green forest canopy typical of early summer. Offshore, and to the west and southwest of Pukaskwa National Park several distinct sets of parallel cloud bands are visible. Gravity waves are produced when moisture-laden air encounters imbalances in air density, such as might be expected when cool air flows over warmer air; this can cause the flowing air to oscillate up and down as it moves, causing clouds to condense as the air rises (cools) and evaporate away as the air sinks (warms). This produces parallel bands of clouds oriented perpendicular to the wind direction. The orientation of the cloud bands visible in this image, parallel to the coastlines, suggests that air flowing off of the land surfaces to the north is interacting with moist, stable air over the lake surface, creating gravity waves. The second phenomenon?sunglint?effects the water surface around and to the northeast of Isle Royale (upper right). Sunglint is caused by light reflection off a water surface; some of the reflected light travels directly back towards the observer, resulting in a bright mirror-like appearance over large expanses of water. Water currents and changes in surface tension (typically caused by presence of oils or surfactants) alter the reflective properties of the water, and can be highlighted by sunglint. For example, surface water currents are visible to the east of Isle Royale that are oriented similarly to the gravity waves ? suggesting that they too are the product of winds moving off of the land surface.

WAVECALC: an Excel-VBA spreadsheet to model the characteristics of fully developed waves and their influence on bottom sediments in different water depths

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Le Roux, Jacobus P.; Demirbilek, Zeki; Brodalka, Marysia; Flemming, Burghard W.

2010-10-01

The generation and growth of waves in deep water is controlled by winds blowing over the sea surface. In fully developed sea states, where winds and waves are in equilibrium, wave parameters may be calculated directly from the wind velocity. We provide an Excel spreadsheet to compute the wave period, length, height and celerity, as well as horizontal and vertical particle velocities for any water depth, bottom slope, and distance below the reference water level. The wave profile and propagation can also be visualized for any water depth, modeling the sea surface change from sinusoidal to trochoidal and finally cnoidal profiles into shallow water. Bedload entrainment is estimated under both the wave crest and the trough, using the horizontal water particle velocity at the top of the boundary layer. The calculations are programmed in an Excel file called WAVECALC, which is available online to authorized users. Although many of the recently published formulas are based on theoretical arguments, the values agree well with several existing theories and limited field and laboratory observations. WAVECALC is a user-friendly program intended for sedimentologists, coastal engineers and oceanographers, as well as marine ecologists and biologists. It provides a rapid means to calculate many wave characteristics required in coastal and shallow marine studies, and can also serve as an educational tool.

Artificial upwelling using the energy of surface waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Soloviev, A.

2016-02-01

The ocean is an important component of climate and climate change, since the heat capacity of a few meters of the upper ocean is equivalent to the heat capacity of the entire atmosphere. (Solar radiation and IR balance in the atmosphere are of course major factors as well.) Artificial upwelling devices using the energy of surface waves, similar to those developed by Vershinskiy, Pshenichnyy, and Soloviev (1987), can bring cold water from below the thermocline to the sea surface. Their wave-inertia pump consisted of a vertical tube, a valve, and a buoy to keep the device afloat. The device operated by using energy of surface waves to create an upward flow of water in the tube. An outlet valve at the top of the unit synchronized the operation of the device with surface waves and prevented back-splashing. A single device with a 100 m long and 1.2 m diameter tube is able to produce up to 1 m3s-1 flow of deep water to the surface. With a 10oC temperature difference over 100 m depth, the negative heat supply rate to the sea surface is 42 MW, which is equivalent to a 42 Wm-2 heat flux, if distributed over 1 km2 area. Such flux is comparable to the average net air-sea flux. This type of artificial upwelling can cool down the sea surface, modify climate on a regional scale and possibly help mitigate hurricanes. The cold water brought from the deep layer, however, has a larger density than the surface water and therefore has a tendency to sink back down. In this work, the efficiency of wave-inertia pumps has been estimated for different environmental conditions using a computational fluid dynamics model. The cooled near-surface layer of the ocean will be getting more heat from the sun, which is a detrimental consequence. Cloud seeding can help to mitigate this extra warming. A synergistic approach to climate engineering can thus reduce detriments and increase potential benefits of this system to society.

Numerical modelling of wind effects on breaking waves in the surf zone

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Xie, Zhihua

2017-10-01

Wind effects on periodic breaking waves in the surf zone have been investigated in this study using a two-phase flow model. The model solves the Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equations with the k - 𝜖 turbulence model simultaneously for the flows both in the air and water. Both spilling and plunging breakers over a 1:35 sloping beach have been studied under the influence of wind, with a focus during wave breaking. Detailed information of the distribution of wave amplitudes and mean water level, wave-height-to-water-depth ratio, the water surface profiles, velocity, vorticity, and turbulence fields have been presented and discussed. The inclusion of wind alters the air flow structure above water waves, increases the generation of vorticity, and affects the wave shoaling, breaking, overturning, and splash-up processes. Wind increases the water particle velocities and causes water waves to break earlier and seaward, which agrees with the previous experiment.

Ocean surface waves in Hurricane Ike (2008) and Superstorm Sandy (2012): Coupled model predictions and observations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Chen, Shuyi S.; Curcic, Milan

2016-07-01

Forecasting hurricane impacts of extreme winds and flooding requires accurate prediction of hurricane structure and storm-induced ocean surface waves days in advance. The waves are complex, especially near landfall when the hurricane winds and water depth varies significantly and the surface waves refract, shoal and dissipate. In this study, we examine the spatial structure, magnitude, and directional spectrum of hurricane-induced ocean waves using a high resolution, fully coupled atmosphere-wave-ocean model and observations. The coupled model predictions of ocean surface waves in Hurricane Ike (2008) over the Gulf of Mexico and Superstorm Sandy (2012) in the northeastern Atlantic and coastal region are evaluated with the NDBC buoy and satellite altimeter observations. Although there are characteristics that are general to ocean waves in both hurricanes as documented in previous studies, wave fields in Ike and Sandy possess unique properties due mostly to the distinct wind fields and coastal bathymetry in the two storms. Several processes are found to significantly modulate hurricane surface waves near landfall. First, the phase speed and group velocities decrease as the waves become shorter and steeper in shallow water, effectively increasing surface roughness and wind stress. Second, the bottom-induced refraction acts to turn the waves toward the coast, increasing the misalignment between the wind and waves. Third, as the hurricane translates over land, the left side of the storm center is characterized by offshore winds over very short fetch, which opposes incoming swell. Landfalling hurricanes produce broader wave spectra overall than that of the open ocean. The front-left quadrant is most complex, where the combination of windsea, swell propagating against the wind, increasing wind-wave stress, and interaction with the coastal topography requires a fully coupled model to meet these challenges in hurricane wave and surge prediction.

Simulation of sea surface wave influence on small target detection with airborne laser depth sounding.

PubMed

Tulldahl, H Michael; Steinvall, K Ove

2004-04-20

A theoretical model for simulation of airborne depth-sounding lidar is presented with the purpose of analyzing the influence from water surface waves on the ability to detect 1-m3 targets placed on the sea bottom. Although water clarity is the main limitation, sea surface waves can significantly affect the detectability. The detection probability for a target at a 9-m depth can be above 90% at 1-m/s wind and below 80% at 6-m/s wind for the same water clarity. The simulation model contains both numerical and analytical components. Simulated data are compared with measured data and give realistic results for bottom depths between 3 and 10 m.

Lightweight dew-/frost-point hygrometer based on a surface-acoustic-wave sensor for balloon-borne atmospheric water vapor profile sounding

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hansford, Graeme M.; Freshwater, Ray A.; Eden, Louise; Turnbull, Katharine F. V.; Hadaway, David E.; Ostanin, Victor P.; Jones, Roderic L.

2006-01-01

The design of a very lightweight dew-/frost-point hygrometer for balloon-borne atmospheric water vapor profiling is described. The instrument is based on a surface-acoustic-wave sensor. The low instrument weight is a key feature, allowing flights on meteorological balloons which brings many more flight opportunities. The hygrometer shows consistently good performance in the troposphere and while water vapor measurements near the tropopause and in the stratosphere are possible with the current instrument, the long-time response in these regions hampers realistic measurements. The excellent intrinsic sensitivity of the surface-acoustic-wave sensor should permit considerable improvement in the hygrometer performance in the very dry regions of the atmosphere.

Frequency shift of the Bragg and Non-Bragg backscattering from periodic water wave

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wen, Biyang; Li, Ke

2016-08-01

Doppler effect is used to measure the relative speed of a moving target with respect to the radar, and is also used to interpret the frequency shift of the backscattering from the ocean wave according to the water-wave phase velocity. The widely known relationship between the Doppler shift and the water-wave phase velocity was deduced from the scattering measurements data collected from actual sea surface, and has not been verified under man-made conditions. Here we show that this ob- served frequency shift of the scattering data from the Bragg and Non-Bragg water wave is not the Doppler shift corresponding to the water-wave phase velocity as commonly believed, but is the water-wave frequency and its integral multiple frequency. The power spectrum of the backscatter from the periodic water wave consists of serials discrete peaks, which is equally spaced by water wave frequency. Only when the water-wave length is the integer multiples of the Bragg wave, and the radar range resolution is infinite, does the frequency shift of the backscattering mathematically equal the Doppler shift according to the water-wave phase velocity.

Characterization of the surface wave variability in the California Current region from satellite altimetry.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Villas Boas, A. B.; Gille, S. T.; Mazloff, M. R.

2016-02-01

Surface gravity waves play a crucial role in upper-ocean dynamics, and they are an important mechanism by which the ocean exchanges energy with the overlying atmosphere. Surface waves are largely wind forced and can also be modulated by ocean currents via nonlinear wave-current interactions, leading to either an amplification or attenuation of the wave amplitude. Even though individual waves cannot be detected by present satellite altimeters, surface waves have the potential to produce a sea-state bias in altimeter measurements and can impact the sea-surface-height spectrum at high wavenumbers or frequencies. Knowing the wave climatology is relevant for the success of future altimeter missions, such as the Surface Water and Ocean Topography (SWOT). We analyse the seasonal, intra-annual and interannual variability of significant wave heights retrieved from over two decades of satellite altimeter data and assess the extent to which the variability of the surface wave field in the California Current region is modulated by the local wind and current fields.

Metamaterial Absorber for Electromagnetic Waves in Periodic Water Droplets

PubMed Central

Yoo, Young Joon; Ju, Sanghyun; Park, Sang Yoon; Ju Kim, Young; Bong, Jihye; Lim, Taekyung; Kim, Ki Won; Rhee, Joo Yull; Lee, YoungPak

2015-01-01

Perfect metamaterial absorber (PMA) can intercept electromagnetic wave harmful for body in Wi-Fi, cell phones and home appliances that we are daily using and provide stealth function that military fighter, tank and warship can avoid radar detection. We reported new concept of water droplet-based PMA absorbing perfectly electromagnetic wave with water, an eco-friendly material which is very plentiful on the earth. If arranging water droplets with particular height and diameter on material surface through the wettability of material surface, meta-properties absorbing electromagnetic wave perfectly in GHz wide-band were shown. It was possible to control absorption ratio and absorption wavelength band of electromagnetic wave according to the shape of water droplet–height and diameter– and apply to various flexible and/or transparent substrates such as plastic, glass and paper. In addition, this research examined how electromagnetic wave can be well absorbed in water droplets with low electrical conductivity unlike metal-based metamaterials inquiring highly electrical conductivity. Those results are judged to lead broad applications to variously civilian and military products in the future by providing perfect absorber of broadband in all products including transparent and bendable materials. PMID:26354891

Metamaterial Absorber for Electromagnetic Waves in Periodic Water Droplets

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Yoo, Young Joon; Ju, Sanghyun; Park, Sang Yoon; Ju Kim, Young; Bong, Jihye; Lim, Taekyung; Kim, Ki Won; Rhee, Joo Yull; Lee, Youngpak

2015-09-01

Perfect metamaterial absorber (PMA) can intercept electromagnetic wave harmful for body in Wi-Fi, cell phones and home appliances that we are daily using and provide stealth function that military fighter, tank and warship can avoid radar detection. We reported new concept of water droplet-based PMA absorbing perfectly electromagnetic wave with water, an eco-friendly material which is very plentiful on the earth. If arranging water droplets with particular height and diameter on material surface through the wettability of material surface, meta-properties absorbing electromagnetic wave perfectly in GHz wide-band were shown. It was possible to control absorption ratio and absorption wavelength band of electromagnetic wave according to the shape of water droplet-height and diameter- and apply to various flexible and/or transparent substrates such as plastic, glass and paper. In addition, this research examined how electromagnetic wave can be well absorbed in water droplets with low electrical conductivity unlike metal-based metamaterials inquiring highly electrical conductivity. Those results are judged to lead broad applications to variously civilian and military products in the future by providing perfect absorber of broadband in all products including transparent and bendable materials.

Metamaterial Absorber for Electromagnetic Waves in Periodic Water Droplets.

PubMed

Yoo, Young Joon; Ju, Sanghyun; Park, Sang Yoon; Ju Kim, Young; Bong, Jihye; Lim, Taekyung; Kim, Ki Won; Rhee, Joo Yull; Lee, YoungPak

2015-09-10

Perfect metamaterial absorber (PMA) can intercept electromagnetic wave harmful for body in Wi-Fi, cell phones and home appliances that we are daily using and provide stealth function that military fighter, tank and warship can avoid radar detection. We reported new concept of water droplet-based PMA absorbing perfectly electromagnetic wave with water, an eco-friendly material which is very plentiful on the earth. If arranging water droplets with particular height and diameter on material surface through the wettability of material surface, meta-properties absorbing electromagnetic wave perfectly in GHz wide-band were shown. It was possible to control absorption ratio and absorption wavelength band of electromagnetic wave according to the shape of water droplet-height and diameter- and apply to various flexible and/or transparent substrates such as plastic, glass and paper. In addition, this research examined how electromagnetic wave can be well absorbed in water droplets with low electrical conductivity unlike metal-based metamaterials inquiring highly electrical conductivity. Those results are judged to lead broad applications to variously civilian and military products in the future by providing perfect absorber of broadband in all products including transparent and bendable materials.

Impact of dissipation on the energy spectrum of experimental turbulence of gravity surface waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Campagne, Antoine; Hassaini, Roumaissa; Redor, Ivan; Sommeria, Joël; Valran, Thomas; Viboud, Samuel; Mordant, Nicolas

2018-04-01

We discuss the impact of dissipation on the development of the energy spectrum in wave turbulence of gravity surface waves with emphasis on the effect of surface contamination. We performed experiments in the Coriolis facility, which is a 13-m-diam wave tank. We took care of cleaning surface contamination as well as possible, considering that the surface of water exceeds 100 m2. We observe that for the cleanest condition the frequency energy spectrum shows a power-law decay extending up to the gravity capillary crossover (14 Hz) with a spectral exponent that is increasing with the forcing strength and decaying with surface contamination. Although slightly higher than reported previously in the literature, the exponent for the cleanest water remains significantly below the prediction from the weak turbulence theory. By discussing length and time scales, we show that weak turbulence cannot be expected at frequencies above 3 Hz. We observe with a stereoscopic reconstruction technique that the increase with the forcing strength of energy spectrum beyond 3 Hz is mostly due to the formation and strengthening of bound waves.

Guided wave propagation in metallic and resin plates loaded with water on single surface

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hayashi, Takahiro; Inoue, Daisuke

2016-02-01

Our previous papers reported dispersion curves for leaky Lamb waves in a water-loaded plate and wave structures for several typical modes including quasi-Scholte waves [1,2]. The calculations were carried out with a semi-analytical finite element (SAFE) method developed for leaky Lamb waves. This study presents SAFE calculations for transient guided waves including time-domain waveforms and animations of wave propagation in metallic and resin water-loaded plates. The results show that non-dispersive and non-attenuated waves propagating along the interface between the fluid and the plate are expected for effective non-destructive evaluation of such fluid-loaded plates as storage tanks and transportation pipes. We calculated transient waves in both steel and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) plates loaded with water on a single side and input dynamic loading from a point source on the other water-free surface as typical examples of metallic and resin plates. For a steel plate, there exists a non-dispersive and non-attenuated mode, called the quasi-Scholte wave, having an almost identical phase velocity to that of water. The quasi-Scholte wave has superior generation efficiency in the low frequency range due to its broad energy distribution across the plate, whereas it is localized near the plate-water interface at higher frequencies. This means that it has superior detectability of inner defects. For a PVC plate, plural non-attenuated modes exist. One of the non-attenuated modes similar to the A0 mode of the Lamb wave in the form of a group velocity dispersion curve is promising for the non-destructive evaluation of the PVC plate because it provides prominent characteristics of generation efficiency and low dispersion.

Transversally periodic solitary gravity–capillary waves

PubMed Central

Milewski, Paul A.; Wang, Zhan

2014-01-01

When both gravity and surface tension effects are present, surface solitary water waves are known to exist in both two- and three-dimensional infinitely deep fluids. We describe here solutions bridging these two cases: travelling waves which are localized in the propagation direction and periodic in the transverse direction. These transversally periodic gravity–capillary solitary waves are found to be of either elevation or depression type, tend to plane waves below a critical transverse period and tend to solitary lumps as the transverse period tends to infinity. The waves are found numerically in a Hamiltonian system for water waves simplified by a cubic truncation of the Dirichlet-to-Neumann operator. This approximation has been proved to be very accurate for both two- and three-dimensional computations of fully localized gravity–capillary solitary waves. The stability properties of these waves are then investigated via the time evolution of perturbed wave profiles. PMID:24399922

Time and space analysis of turbulence of gravity surface waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Mordant, Nicolas; Aubourg, Quentin; Viboud, Samuel; Sommeria, Joel

2016-11-01

Wave turbulence is a statistical state made of a very large number of nonlinearly interacting waves. The Weak Turbulence Theory was developed to describe such a situation in the weakly nonlinear regime. Although, oceanic data tend to be compatible with the theory, laboratory data fail to fulfill the theoretical predictions. A space-time resolved measurement of the waves have proven to be especially fruitful to identify the mechanism at play in turbulence of gravity-capillary waves. We developed an image processing algorithm to measure the motion of the surface of water with both space and time resolution. We first seed the surface with slightly buoyant polystyrene particles and use 3 cameras to reconstruct the surface. Our stereoscopic algorithm is coupled to PIV so that to obtain both the surface deformation and the velocity of the water surface. Such a coupling is shown to improve the sensitivity of the measurement by one order of magnitude. We use this technique to probe the existence of weakly nonlinear turbulence excited by two small wedge wavemakers in a 13-m diameter wave flume. We observe a truly weakly nonlinear regime of isotropic wave turbulence. This project has received funding from the European Research Council (ERC) under the European Union's Horizon 2020 research and innovation programme (Grant Agreement No 647018-WATU).

Water waves generated by impulsively moving obstacle

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Makarenko, Nikolay; Kostikov, Vasily

2017-04-01

There are several mechanisms of tsunami-type wave formation such as piston displacement of the ocean floor due to a submarine earthquake, landslides, etc. We consider simplified mathematical formulation which involves non-stationary Euler equations of infinitely deep ideal fluid with submerged compact wave-maker. We apply semi-analytical method [1] based on the reduction of fully nonlinear water wave problem to the integral-differential system for the wave elevation together with normal and tangential fluid velocities at the free surface. Recently, small-time asymptotic solutions were constructed by this method for submerged piston modeled by thin elliptic cylinder which starts with constant acceleration from rest [2,3]. By that, the leading-order solution terms describe several regimes of non-stationary free surface flow such as formation of inertial fluid layer, splash jets and diverging waves over the obstacle. Now we construct asymptotic solution taking into account higher-order nonlinear terms in the case of submerged circular cylinder. The role of non-linearity in the formation mechanism of surface waves is clarified in comparison with linear approximations. This work was supported by RFBR (grant No 15-01-03942). References [1] Makarenko N.I. Nonlinear interaction of submerged cylinder with free surface, JOMAE Trans. ASME, 2003, 125(1), 75-78. [2] Makarenko N.I., Kostikov V.K. Unsteady motion of an elliptic cylinder under a free surface, J. Appl. Mech. Techn. Phys., 2013, 54(3), 367-376. [3] Makarenko N.I., Kostikov V.K. Non-linear water waves generated by impulsive motion of submerged obstacle, NHESS, 2014, 14(4), 751-756.

Lidar Observations of Wave Shape

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Brodie, K. L.; Raubenheimer, B.; Spore, N.; Gorrell, L.; Slocum, R. K.; Elgar, S.

2016-02-01

As waves propagate across the inner-surf zone, through a shorebreak, to the swash, their shapes can evolve rapidly, particularly if there are large changes in water depth over a wavelength. As wave shapes evolve, the time history of near-bed wave-orbital velocities also changes. Asymmetrical near-bed velocities result in preferential directions for sediment transport, and spatial variations in asymmetries can lead to morphological evolution. Thus, understanding and predicting wave shapes in the inner-surf and swash zones is important to improving sediment transport predictions. Here, rapid changes in wave shape, quantified by 3rd moments (skewness and asymmetry) of the sea-surface elevation time series, were observed on a sandy Atlantic Ocean beach near Duck, NC using terrestrial lidar scanners that measure the elevation of the water surface along a narrow cross-shore transect with high spatial [O(1 cm)] and temporal [O(0.5 s)] resolution. The terrestrial lidar scanners were mounted on a tower on the beach dune (about 8 m above the water surface) and on an 8-m tall amphibious tripod [the Coastal Research Amphibious Buggy (CRAB)]. Observations with the dune lidar are used to investigate how bulk wave shape parameters such as wave skewness and asymmetry, and the ratio of wave height to water depth (gamma) vary with beach slope, tide level, and offshore wave conditions. Observations with the lidar mounted on the CRAB are used to investigate the evolution of individual waves propagating across the surf zone and shorebreak to the swash. For example, preliminary observations from the CRAB include a wave that appeared to shoal and then "pitch" backwards immediately prior to breaking and running up the beach. Funded by the USACE Coastal Field Data Collection Program, ASD(R&E), and ONR.

WAVE-E: The WAter Vapour European-Explorer Mission

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Jimenez-LLuva, David; Deiml, Michael; Pavesi, Sara

2017-04-01

In the last decade, stratosphere-troposphere coupling processes in the Upper Troposphere Lower Stratosphere (UTLS) have been increasingly recognized to severely impact surface climate and high-impact weather phenomena. Weakened stratospheric circumpolar jets have been linked to worldwide extreme temperature and high-precipitation events, while anomalously strong stratospheric jets can lead to an increase in surface winds and tropical cyclone intensity. Moreover, stratospheric water vapor has been identified as an important forcing for global decadal surface climate change. In the past years, operational weather forecast and climate models have adapted a high vertical resolution in the UTLS region in order to capture the dynamical processes occurring in this highly stratified region. However, there is an evident lack of available measurements in the UTLS region to consistently support these models and further improve process understanding. Consequently, both the IPCC fifth assessment report and the ESA-GEWEX report 'Earth Observation and Water Cycle Science Priorities' have identified an urgent need for long-term observations and improved process understanding in the UTLS region. To close this gap, the authors propose the 'WAter Vapour European - Explorer' (WAVE-E) space mission, whose primary goal is to monitor water vapor in the UTLS at 1 km vertical, 25 km horizontal and sub-daily temporal resolution. WAVE-E consists of three quasi-identical small ( 500 kg) satellites (WAVE-E 1-3) in a constellation of Sun-Synchronous Low Earth Orbits, each carrying a limb sounding and cross-track scanning mid-infrared passive spectrometer (824 cm-1 to 829 cm-1). The core of the instruments builds a monolithic, field-widened type of Michelson interferometer without any moving parts, rendering it rigid and fault tolerant. Synergistic use of WAVE-E and MetOp-NG operational satellites is identified, such that a data fusion algorithm could provide water vapour profiles from the surface to the lower stratosphere. The mission strategy involves a pioneering launch of WAVE-E 1 followed by a joint launch of WAVE-E 2 and 3, minimizing both costs and risks as well as naturally offering a descoping option only affecting the temporal resolution of the mission. Assuming a nominal lifetime of five years for each satellite, the rough order of costs estimate amounts to 600M€ for the overall mission, while numerous cost reduction potentials remain open due to the early stage of instrument and mission design. The space mission concept 'WAVE-E' was developed by a team of 15 students with the support of two tutors at the Alpbach Summer School 2016, a ten-day design challenge organised by FFG and ESA and devoted to 'Satellite Observations of the Global Water Cycle'. The concept won the 'best science case' and 'best presentation' awards.

A note on specific variability of long surface gravity waves and drag coefficient in coastal upwelling zone

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Krzyścin, Janusz

1990-01-01

In this paper we solve analytically wave kinematic equations and the wave energy transport equation, for basic long surface gravity wave in the coastal upwelling zone. Using Gent and Taylor's (1978) parameterization of drag coefficient (which includes interaction between long surface waves and the air flow) we find variability of this coefficient due to wave amplification and refraction caused by specific surface water current in the region. The drag coefficient grows towards the shore. The growth is faster for stronger current. When the angle between waves and the current is less than 90° the growth is mainly connected with the waves steepness, but when the angle is larger, it is caused by relative growth of the wave phase velocity.

Experimental observation of negative effective gravity in water waves.

PubMed

Hu, Xinhua; Yang, Jiong; Zi, Jian; Chan, C T; Ho, Kai-Ming

2013-01-01

The gravity of Earth is responsible for the formation of water waves and usually difficult to change. Although negative effective gravity was recently predicted theoretically in water waves, it has not yet been observed in experiments and remains a mathematical curiosity which is difficult to understand. Here we experimentally demonstrate that close to the resonant frequency of purposely-designed resonating units, negative effective gravity can occur for water waves passing through an array of resonators composing of bottom-mounted split tubes, resulting in the prohibition of water wave propagation. It is found that when negative gravity occurs, the averaged displacement of water surface in a unit cell of the array has a phase difference of π to that along the boundary of the unit cell, consistent with theoretical predictions. Our results provide a mechanism to block water waves and may find applications in wave energy conversion and coastal protection.

Experimental Observation of Negative Effective Gravity in Water Waves

PubMed Central

Hu, Xinhua; Yang, Jiong; Zi, Jian; Chan, C. T.; Ho, Kai-Ming

2013-01-01

The gravity of Earth is responsible for the formation of water waves and usually difficult to change. Although negative effective gravity was recently predicted theoretically in water waves, it has not yet been observed in experiments and remains a mathematical curiosity which is difficult to understand. Here we experimentally demonstrate that close to the resonant frequency of purposely-designed resonating units, negative effective gravity can occur for water waves passing through an array of resonators composing of bottom-mounted split tubes, resulting in the prohibition of water wave propagation. It is found that when negative gravity occurs, the averaged displacement of water surface in a unit cell of the array has a phase difference of π to that along the boundary of the unit cell, consistent with theoretical predictions. Our results provide a mechanism to block water waves and may find applications in wave energy conversion and coastal protection. PMID:23715132

Assessing the performance of formulations for nonlinear feedback of surface gravity waves on ocean currents over coastal waters

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wang, Pengcheng; Sheng, Jinyu; Hannah, Charles

2017-08-01

This study presents applications of a two-way coupled wave-circulation modelling system over coastal waters, with a special emphasis of performance assessments of two different methods for nonlinear feedback of ocean surface gravity waves on three-dimensional (3D) ocean currents. These two methods are the vortex force (VF) formulation suggested by Bennis et al. (2011) and the latest version of radiation stress (RS) formulation suggested by Mellor (2015). The coupled modelling system is first applied to two idealized test cases of surf-zone scales to validate implementations of these two methods in the coupled wave-circulation system. Model results show that the latest version of RS has difficulties in producing the undertow over the surf zone. The coupled system is then applied to Lunenburg Bay (LB) of Nova Scotia during Hurricane Juan in 2003. The coupled system using both the VF and RS formulations generates much stronger and more realistic 3D circulation in the Bay during Hurricane Juan than the circulation-only model, demonstrating the importance of surface wave forces to the 3D ocean circulation over coastal waters. However, the RS formulation generates some weak unphysical currents outside the wave breaking zone due to a less reasonable representation for the vertical distribution of the RS gradients over a slopping bottom. These weak unphysical currents are significantly magnified in a two-way coupled system when interacting with large surface waves, degrading the model performance in simulating currents at one observation site. Our results demonstrate that the VF formulation with an appropriate parameterization of wave breaking effects is able to produce reasonable results for applications over coastal waters during extreme weather events. The RS formulation requires a complex wave theory rather than the linear wave theory for the approximation of a vertical RS term to improve its performance under both breaking and non-breaking wave conditions.

Scaling Observations of Surface Waves in the Beaufort Sea

DTIC Science & Technology

2016-04-14

the treatment of wind input can be improved in partial ice cover using the ice concentration, where wave energy is a function of open water distance...drifting buoys during the 2014 open water season, are interpreted using open water distances determined from satellite ice products and wind forcing time...series measured in situ with the buoys. A significant portion of the wave observations were found to be limited by open water distance (fetch) when

Landing Characteristics of a Lenticular-Shaped Reentry Vehicle

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Blanchard, Ulysse J.

1961-01-01

An experimental investigation was made of the landing characteristics of a 1/9-scale dynamic model of a lenticular-shaped reentry vehicle having extendible tail panels for control after reentry and for landing control (flare-out). The landing tests were made by catapulting a free model onto a hard-surface runway and onto water. A "belly-landing" technique in which the vehicle was caused to skid and rock on its curved undersurface (heat shield), converting sinking speed into angular energy, was investigated on a hard-surface runway. Landings were made in calm water and in waves both with and without auxiliary landing devices. Landing motions and acceleration data were obtained over a range of landing attitudes and initial sinking speeds during hard-surface landings and for several wave conditions during water landings. A few vertical landings (parachute letdown) were made in calm water. The hard-surface landing characteristics were good. Maximum landing accelerations on a hard surface were 5g and 18 radians per sq second over a range of landing conditions. Horizontal landings on water resulted in large violent rebounds and some diving in waves. Extreme attitude changes during rebound at initial impact made the attitude of subsequent impact random. Maximum accelerations for water landings were approximately 21g and 145 radians per sq second in waves 7 feet high. Various auxiliary water-landing devices produced no practical improvement in behavior. Reduction of horizontal speed and positive control of impact attitude did improve performance in calm water. During vertical landings in calm water maximum accelerations of 15g and 110 radians per sq second were measured for a contact attitude of -45 deg and a vertical velocity of 70 feet per second.

Mechanical Balance Laws for Boussinesq Models of Surface Water Waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ali, Alfatih; Kalisch, Henrik

2012-06-01

Depth-integrated long-wave models, such as the shallow-water and Boussinesq equations, are standard fare in the study of small amplitude surface waves in shallow water. While the shallow-water theory features conservation of mass, momentum and energy for smooth solutions, mechanical balance equations are not widely used in Boussinesq scaling, and it appears that the expressions for many of these quantities are not known. This work presents a systematic derivation of mass, momentum and energy densities and fluxes associated with a general family of Boussinesq systems. The derivation is based on a reconstruction of the velocity field and the pressure in the fluid column below the free surface, and the derivation of differential balance equations which are of the same asymptotic validity as the evolution equations. It is shown that all these mechanical quantities can be expressed in terms of the principal dependent variables of the Boussinesq system: the surface excursion η and the horizontal velocity w at a given level in the fluid.

Simulation of Wave-Current Interaction Using a Three-Dimensional Hydrodynamic Model Coupled With a Phase Averaged Wave Model

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Marsooli, R.; Orton, P. M.; Georgas, N.; Blumberg, A. F.

2016-02-01

The Stevens Institute of Technology Estuarine and Coastal Ocean Model (sECOM) has been coupled with a more advanced surface wave model to simulate wave‒current interaction, and results have been validated in estuarine and nearshore waters. sECOM is a three‒dimensional, hydrostatic, free surface, primitive equation model. It solves the Navier‒Stokes equations and the conservation equations for temperature and salinity using a finite‒difference method on an Arakawa C‒grid with a terrain‒following (sigma) vertical coordinate and orthogonal curvilinear horizontal coordinate system. The model is coupled with the surface wave model developed by Mellor et al. (2008), which solves the spectral equation and takes into account depth and current refraction, and deep and shallow water. The wave model parameterizes the energy distribution in frequency space and the wave‒wave interaction process by using a specified spectrum shape. The coupled wave‒hydrodynamic model considers the wave‒current interaction through wave‒induced bottom stress, depth‒dependent radiation stress, and wave effects on wind‒induced surface stress. The model is validated using the data collected at a natural sandy beach at Duck, North Carolina, during the DUCK94 experiment. This test case reveals the capability of the model to simulate the wave‒current interaction in nearshore coastal systems. The model is further validated using the data collected in Jamaica Bay, a semi‒enclosed body of water located in New York City region. This test reveals the applicability of the model to estuarine systems. These validations of the model and comparisons to its prior wave model, the Great Lakes Environmental Research Laboratory (GLERL) wave model (Donelan 1977), are presented and discussed. ReferencesG.L. Mellor, M.A. Donelan, and L‒Y. Oey, 2008, A Surface Wave Model for Coupling with Numerical Ocean Circulation Models. J. Atmos. Oceanic Technol., 25, 1785‒1807.Donelan, M. A 1977. A simple numerical model for wave and wind stress application. Report, National Water Research Institute, Burlington, Ontario, Canada, 28 pp.

The interaction of extreme waves with hull elements

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Galiev, Shamil; Flay, Richard

2010-05-01

The problem of the impact of a rogue wave onto a deformable marine structure is formulated in a few publications (see, for example, a short review in http://researchspace.auckland.ac.nz/handle/2292/4474). In this paper the results from numerical and experimental investigations of the effect of cavitation on the deformation of a hull element, loaded by a wall of water, generated by an extreme ocean surface wave are considered. The hull element is modelled as a circular metal plate with the edge of the plate rigidly clamped. The plate surface is much smaller than the surface of the wave front, so that at the initial moment of the interaction, the pressure is constant on the plate surface. At the next instant, because of the plate deformation, axisymmetric loading of the plate occurs. The influences of membrane forces and plastic deformations are ignored, and therefore, the equation of plate motion has the following classical form Eh3(wrrrr+2r -1wrrrr- r-2wrr+r-3wr) = - 121- ν2)[ρhwtt+ δ(r,t)(p+ ρ0a0wt)]. Here w is the plate displacement, subscripts t and rindicate derivatives with respect to time and the radial coordinate, PIC is the plate material density, his the plate thickness, Eis Young's modulus, PIC is Poisson's ratio and p is the pressure of the incident surface wave measured on the wall, PIC is the water density, PIC is the speed of sound in water, and PIC is the normal velocity of the plate. The term PIC takes into account the effect of the deformability of the plate. Obviously, the hull of a vessel is not rigid like a solid wall, but starts to deform and to move. This motion produces a reflected pressure wave, which travels from the hull into the water wave with a magnitude equal to PIC . The normal velocity is positive so the reflected pressure PIC is negative (tensile wave). If the fluid pressure drops below some critical value pk, the wet plate surface separates from the water, and cavitation may be generated. The function δ(r,t) takes into account the effect of the hull cavitation. The function PIC or 0, and is determined during the numerical calculations. Case PIC is valid for the case with no cavitation, and the case δ(r,t) = 0 corresponds to the case with hull cavitation. The results from these calculations allow us to draw the following conclusions. 1) The pressures generated depend greatly on the irregularity of waves. In particular, the shock pressures are affected by this irregularity, making the prediction of their magnitude almost impossible. 2) In the majority of cases, the elastic deformation of thin hull elements by a short duration water wave pressure pulse is accompanied by hull cavitation. The effect of cavitation may be important, provided that the time of loading by the water wall pressure is less than the period of the fundamental frequency of the hull element oscillations. 3) The cavitation zones can enclose practically the whole wet surface and thus completely change the water loading onto the hull element, compared to the pressures that would be developed in the absence of cavitation. 4) The hull element deformation generates surface pressure and cavitation waves. 5) Cavitation interaction of extreme water waves with structures, and hull response, are complex topics, which are not well understood and are expected to be important in the design of advanced ships in the future. 6) The existence of rogue waves makes it important to re-examine some of the ideas developed earlier which are fundamental to merchant ship design.

Novel two-way artificial boundary condition for 2D vertical water wave propagation modelled with Radial-Basis-Function Collocation Method

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Mueller, A.

2018-04-01

A new transparent artificial boundary condition for the two-dimensional (vertical) (2DV) free surface water wave propagation modelled using the meshless Radial-Basis-Function Collocation Method (RBFCM) as boundary-only solution is derived. The two-way artificial boundary condition (2wABC) works as pure incidence, pure radiation and as combined incidence/radiation BC. In this work the 2wABC is applied to harmonic linear water waves; its performance is tested against the analytical solution for wave propagation over horizontal sea bottom, standing and partially standing wave as well as wave interference of waves with different periods.

Detection and Characterization of Deep Water Wave Breaking Using Moderate Incidence Angle Microwave Backscatter from the Sea Surface

DTIC Science & Technology

1990-06-01

interaction and wave breaking. The ocean surface can be modelled as a two-scale or composite surface - 21 - made up of short wind-generated ripples... composite or two-scale rough surface (Barrick and Peake, 1968). For radar wavelengths on the order of a few centimeters, the resonant scatterers are...short wind ripples which ride on top of long gravity waves, and a - 46 - composite model is used to describe the two-scale nature of the sea surface

Waves on Seas of Mars and Titan: Wind-Tunnel Experiments on Wind-Wave Generation in Extraterrestrial Atmospheres

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Lorenz, R. D.; Kraal, E. R.; Eddlemon, E. E.; Cheney, J.; Greeley, R.

2004-01-01

The generation of waves by winds across Earth's water oceans is a topic of enduring fascination. However, the physics of the problem are rather forbidding and thus the relationships between real-world windspeed and sea state tend to be empirical. Such empirical relations are of limited utility in environments where the physical parameters are different, such as the surfaces of other planets. These environments have only recently come to oceanographers attention, with the discovery of ancient shorelines and lakes on Mars, and the prospects for and recent evidence of lakes and seas of liquid hydrocarbons on Saturn's moon Titan. We are aware of only one other published experimental wind-water tunnel study where the fluid parameters have been varied. This used artificially-generated mm-scale waves at 3.8-7.6 Hz in water, glycerol solutions (higher viscosity) and surfactant solutions (lower surface tension). Lower viscosity solutions had higher wave growth rates: surprisingly, higher surface tension led to more rapid wave growth. The liquid density was not appreciably varied, and 1 bar air was used throughout.We used the MARSWIT (Mars Wind Tunnel) operated by ASU at NASA Ames. A fiberglass tray (5 cm x 120 cm x 75 cm) was installed in the tunnel, with an approx. 1:5 ramp to prevent strong flow separation. The tray was filled to a depth of about 4 cm. Sensors were clamped to the tray itself or held by a steel and aluminium frame just above the water level. A towel was draped on the water surface at the downwind end of the tray to act as a damper to suppress wave reflection. Position-sensitive infrared (IR) reflection sensors (Sharp GP12D02) and ultrasonic rangers (Devantech DF-04) used in mobile robotics were used as water level sensors. The tray was observed with a video camera, whose output could be viewed on a monitor and recorded on VHS tape.

Numerical Simulation of Floating Bodies in Extreme Free Surface Waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hu, Zheng Zheng; Causon, Derek; Mingham, Clive; Qiang, Ling

2010-05-01

A task of the EPSRC funded research project 'Extreme Wave loading on Offshore Wave Energy Devices: a Hierarchical Team Approach' is to investigate the survivability of two wave energy converter (WEC) devices Pelamis and the Manchester Bobber using different CFD approaches. Both devices float on the water surface, generating the electricity from the motion of the waves. In this paper, we describe developments of the AMAZON-SC 3D numerical wave tank (NWT) to study extreme wave loading of a fixed or floating (in Heave motion) structure. The extreme wave formulation as an inlet condition is due to Dalzell (1999) and Ning et. al. (2009) in which a first or second-order Stokes focused wave can be prescribed. The AMAZON-SC 3D code (see e.g. Hu et al. (2009)) uses a cell centred finite volume method of the Godunov-type for the space discretization of the Euler and Navier Stokes equations. The computational domain includes both air and water regions with the air/water boundary captured as a discontinuity in the density field thereby admitting the break up and recombination of the free surface. Temporal discretisation uses the artificial compressibility method and a dual time stepping strategy to maintain a divergence free velocity field. Cartesian cut cells are used to provide a fully boundary-fitted gridding capability on an regular background Cartesian grid. Solid objects are cut out of the background mesh leaving a set of irregularly shaped cells fitted to the boundary. The advantages of the cut cell approach have been outlined previously by Causon et al. (2000, 2001) including its flexibility for dealing with complex geometries whether stationary or in relative motion. The field grid does not need to be recomputed globally or even locally for moving body cases; all that is necessary is to update the local cut cell data at the body contour for as long as the motion continues. The handing of numerical wave paddles and device motion in a NWT is therefore straightforward and efficient. Firstly, extreme design wave conditions are generated in an empty NWT and compared with physical experiments as a precursor to calculations to investigate the survivability of the Bobber device operating in a challenging wave climate. Secondly, we consider a bench-mark test case involving in a first order regular wave maker acting on a fixed cylinder and Pelamis. Finally, a floating Bobber has been simulated under extreme wave conditions. These results will be reported at the meeting. Causon D.M., Ingram D.M., Mingham C.G., Yang G. Pearson R.V. (2000). Calculation of shallow water flows using a Cartesian cut cell approach. Advances in Water resources, 23: 545-562. Causon D.M., Ingram D.M., Mingham C.G. (2000). A Cartesian cut cell method for shallow water flows with moving boundaries. Advances in Water resources, 24: 899-911. Dalzell J.F. 1999 A note on finite depth second-order wave-wave interactions. Appl. Ocean Res. 21, 105-111. Ning D.Z., Zang J., Liu S.X. Eatock Taylor R. Teng B. & Taylor P.H. 2009 Free surface and wave kinematics for nonlinear focused wave groups. J. Ocean Engineering. Accepted. Hu Z.Z., Causon D.M., Mingham C.M. and Qian L.(2009). Numerical wave tank study of a wave energy converter in heave. Proceedlings 19th ISOPE conference, Osaka, Japan Qian L., Causon D.M. & Mingham C.G., Ingram D.M. 2006 A free-surface capturing method for two fluid flows with moving bodies. Proc. Roy. Soc. London, Vol. A 462 21-42.

Development of an Integrated Modeling Framework for Simulations of Coastal Processes in Deltaic Environments Using High-Performance Computing

DTIC Science & Technology

2009-01-01

attenuation and mass transport of a water -mud system due to a solitary wave on the free surface has been modeled by using the Chebyshev-Chebyshev...in Lagrangian coordinates and perturbation equations for shallow water waves were 3 derived. An iteration-by-subdomain technique was introduced to...found. Although the model is focused on solitary waves and Newtonian fluid-mud, the methodology can be extended to oscillatory, nonlinear water waves

Seismic moulin tremor

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Roeoesli, Claudia; Walter, Fabian; Ampuero, Jean-Paul; Kissling, Edi

2016-08-01

Through glacial moulins, meltwater is routed from the glacier surface to its base. Moulins are a main feature feeding subglacial drainage systems and thus influencing basal motion and ice dynamics, but their geometry remains poorly known. Here we show that analysis of the seismic wavefield generated by water falling into a moulin can help constrain its geometry. We present modeling results of hour-long seimic tremors emitted from a vertical moulin shaft, observed with a seismometer array installed at the surface of the Greenland Ice Sheet. The tremor was triggered when the moulin water level exceeded a certain height, which we associate with the threshold for the waterfall to hit directly the surface of the moulin water column. The amplitude of the tremor signal changed over each tremor episode, in close relation to the amount of inflowing water. The tremor spectrum features multiple prominent peaks, whose characteristic frequencies are distributed like the resonant modes of a semiopen organ pipe and were found to depend on the moulin water level, consistent with a source composed of resonant tube waves (water pressure waves coupled to elastic deformation of the moulin walls) along the water-filled moulin pipe. Analysis of surface particle motions lends further support to this interpretation. The seismic wavefield was modeled as a superposition of sustained wave radiation by pressure sources on the side walls and at the bottom of the moulin. The former was found to dominate the wave field at close distance and the latter at large distance to the moulin.

The nonlinear Schrödinger equation and the propagation of weakly nonlinear waves in optical fibers and on the water surface

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Chabchoub, A., E-mail: achabchoub@swin.edu.au; Kibler, B.; Finot, C.

2015-10-15

The dynamics of waves in weakly nonlinear dispersive media can be described by the nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLSE). An important feature of the equation is that it can be derived in a number of different physical contexts; therefore, analogies between different fields, such as for example fiber optics, water waves, plasma waves and Bose–Einstein condensates, can be established. Here, we investigate the similarities between wave propagation in optical Kerr media and water waves. In particular, we discuss the modulation instability (MI) in both media. In analogy to the water wave problem, we derive for Kerr-media the Benjamin–Feir index, i.e. amore » nondimensional parameter related to the probability of formation of rogue waves in incoherent wave trains.« less

Coherent reflection from surface gravity water waves during reciprocal acoustic transmissions.

PubMed

Badiey, Mohsen; Song, Aijun; Smith, Kevin B

2012-10-01

During a recent experiment in Kauai, Hawaii, reciprocal transmissions were conducted between two acoustic transceivers mounted on the seafloor at a depth of 100 m. The passage of moving surface wave crests was shown to generate focused and intense coherent acoustic returns, which had increasing or decreasing delay depending on the direction of propagation relative to the direction of surface wave crests. It is shown that a rough surface two-dimensional parabolic equation model with an evolving sea surface can produce qualitative agreement with data for the dynamic surface returns.

A laboratory investigation of mixing dynamics between biofuels and surface waters

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wang, Xiaoxiang; Cotel, Aline

2017-11-01

Recently, production and usage of ethanol-blend fuels or biofuels have increased dramatically along with increasing risk of spilling into surface waters. Lack of understanding of the environmental impacts and absence of standard clean-up procedures make it crucial to study the mixing behavior between biofuels and water. Biofuels are represented by a solution of ethanol and glycol. A Plexiglas tank in conjunction with a wave generator is used to simulate the mixing of surface waters and biofuels under different natural conditions. In our previous experiments, two distinct mixing regimes were observed. One regime was driven by turbulence and the other by interfacial instabilities. However, under more realistic situations, without wind driven waves, only the first mixing regime was found. After one minute of rapid turbulent mixing, biofuels and water were fully mixed and no interface was formed. During the mixing process, chemical reactions happened simultaneously and influenced mixing dynamics. Current experiments are investigating the effect of waves on the mixing dynamics. Support from NSF CBET 1335878.

Optical fiber humidity sensor based on evanescent-wave scattering.

PubMed

Xu, Lina; Fanguy, Joseph C; Soni, Krunal; Tao, Shiquan

2004-06-01

The phenomenon of evanescent-wave scattering (EWS) is used to design an optical-fiber humidity sensor. Porous solgel silica (PSGS) coated on the surface of a silica optical-fiber core scatters evanescent waves that penetrate the coating layer. Water molecules in the gas phase surrounding the optical fiber can be absorbed into the inner surface of the pores of the porous silica. The absorbed water molecules form a thin layer of liquid water on the inner surface of the porous silica and enhance the EWS. The amount of water absorbed into the PSGS coating is in dynamic equilibrium with the water-vapor pressure in the gas phase. Therefore the humidity in the air can be quantitatively determined with fiber-optic EWS caused by the PSGS coating. The humidity sensor reported here is fast in response, reversible, and has a wide dynamic range. The possible interference caused by EWS to an optical-fiber gas sensor with a reagent-doped PSGS coating as a transducer is also discussed.

An algorithm for modeling entrainment and naturally and chemically dispersed oil droplet size distribution under surface breaking wave conditions.

PubMed

Li, Zhengkai; Spaulding, Malcolm L; French-McCay, Deborah

2017-06-15

A surface oil entrainment model and droplet size model have been developed to estimate the flux of oil under surface breaking waves. Both equations are expressed in dimensionless Weber number (We) and Ohnesorge number (Oh, which explicitly accounts for the oil viscosity, density, and oil-water interfacial tension). Data from controlled lab studies, large-scale wave tank tests, and field observations have been used to calibrate the constants of the two independent equations. Predictions using the new algorithm compared well with the observed amount of oil removed from the surface and the sizes of the oil droplets entrained in the water column. Simulations with the new algorithm, implemented in a comprehensive spill model, show that entrainment rates increase more rapidly with wind speed than previously predicted based on the existing Delvigne and Sweeney's (1988) model, and a quasi-stable droplet size distribution (d<~50μm) is developed in the near surface water. Copyright © 2017 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Developing a framework for integrating turbulence measurements and modeling of ecosystem-atmosphere interactions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Markfort, C. D.

2017-12-01

Aquatic ecosystems are integrators of nutrient and carbon from their watersheds. The effects of climate change in many cases will enhance the rate of these inputs and change the thermodynamics within aquatic environments. It is unclear the extent these changes will have on water quality and carbon assimilation, but the drivers of these processes will be determined by the complex interactions at the land-water and air-water interfaces. For example, flow over and beneath wind-driven surface waves generate turbulence that plays an important role in aquatic ecology and biogeochemistry, exchange of gases such as oxygen and carbon dioxide, and it is important for the transfer of energy and controlling evaporation. Energy transferred from the atmosphere promotes the generation and maintenance of waves. A fraction of the energy is transferred to the surface mixed layer through the generation of turbulence. Energy is also transferred back to the atmosphere by waves. There is a need to quantify the details of the coupled boundary layers of the air-water system to better understand how turbulence plays a role in the interactions. We have developed capabilities to conduct field and laboratory experiments using eddy covariance on tall-towers and rafts, UAS platforms integrated with remote sensing, and detailed wind-wave measurements with time-resolved PIV in a new boundary layer wind-wave tunnel. We will show measurements of the detailed structure of the air and water boundary layers under varying wind and wave conditions in the newly developed IIHR Boundary-Layer Wind-Wave Tunnel. The facility combines a 30-m long recirculating water channel with an open-return boundary layer wind tunnel. A thick turbulent boundary layer is developed in the 1 m high air channel, over the water surface, allowing for the study of boundary layer turbulence interacting with a wind-driven wave field. Results will help interpret remote sensing, energy budget measurements, and turbulence transport models for sheltered lakes influenced by terrain and tall trees.

Phase Domain Walls in Weakly Nonlinear Deep Water Surface Gravity Waves.

PubMed

Tsitoura, F; Gietz, U; Chabchoub, A; Hoffmann, N

2018-06-01

We report a theoretical derivation, an experimental observation and a numerical validation of nonlinear phase domain walls in weakly nonlinear deep water surface gravity waves. The domain walls presented are connecting homogeneous zones of weakly nonlinear plane Stokes waves of identical amplitude and wave vector but differences in phase. By exploiting symmetry transformations within the framework of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation we demonstrate the existence of exact analytical solutions representing such domain walls in the weakly nonlinear limit. The walls are in general oblique to the direction of the wave vector and stationary in moving reference frames. Experimental and numerical studies confirm and visualize the findings. Our present results demonstrate that nonlinear domain walls do exist in the weakly nonlinear regime of general systems exhibiting dispersive waves.

Phase Domain Walls in Weakly Nonlinear Deep Water Surface Gravity Waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Tsitoura, F.; Gietz, U.; Chabchoub, A.; Hoffmann, N.

2018-06-01

We report a theoretical derivation, an experimental observation and a numerical validation of nonlinear phase domain walls in weakly nonlinear deep water surface gravity waves. The domain walls presented are connecting homogeneous zones of weakly nonlinear plane Stokes waves of identical amplitude and wave vector but differences in phase. By exploiting symmetry transformations within the framework of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation we demonstrate the existence of exact analytical solutions representing such domain walls in the weakly nonlinear limit. The walls are in general oblique to the direction of the wave vector and stationary in moving reference frames. Experimental and numerical studies confirm and visualize the findings. Our present results demonstrate that nonlinear domain walls do exist in the weakly nonlinear regime of general systems exhibiting dispersive waves.

Ripple Communication.

ERIC Educational Resources Information Center

Wilcox, R. Stimson

1980-01-01

Discusses how surface-dwelling animals use the water surface as a mode of communication by making ripple signals while they swim about. Provides information about surfaces and surface waves, ripple communication in water striders, ripple signal characteristics, sensing and orienting, other modes of communication, and evolution of ripple…

The Fate and Impact of Internal Waves in Nearshore Ecosystems

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Woodson, C. B.

2018-01-01

Internal waves are widespread features of global oceans that play critical roles in mixing and thermohaline circulation. Similarly to surface waves, internal waves can travel long distances, ultimately breaking along continental margins. These breaking waves can transport deep ocean water and associated constituents (nutrients, larvae, and acidic low-oxygen waters) onto the shelf and locally enhance turbulence and mixing, with important effects on nearshore ecosystems. We are only beginning to understand the role internal waves play in shaping nearshore ecosystems. Here, I review the physics of internal waves in shallow waters and identify two commonalities among internal waves in the nearshore: exposure to deep offshore waters and enhanced turbulence and mixing. I relate these phenomena to important ecosystem processes ranging from extreme events to fertilization success to draw general conclusions about the influence of internal waves on ecosystems and the effects of internal waves in a changing climate.

The Fate and Impact of Internal Waves in Nearshore Ecosystems.

PubMed

Woodson, C B

2018-01-03

Internal waves are widespread features of global oceans that play critical roles in mixing and thermohaline circulation. Similarly to surface waves, internal waves can travel long distances, ultimately breaking along continental margins. These breaking waves can transport deep ocean water and associated constituents (nutrients, larvae, and acidic low-oxygen waters) onto the shelf and locally enhance turbulence and mixing, with important effects on nearshore ecosystems. We are only beginning to understand the role internal waves play in shaping nearshore ecosystems. Here, I review the physics of internal waves in shallow waters and identify two commonalities among internal waves in the nearshore: exposure to deep offshore waters and enhanced turbulence and mixing. I relate these phenomena to important ecosystem processes ranging from extreme events to fertilization success to draw general conclusions about the influence of internal waves on ecosystems and the effects of internal waves in a changing climate.

Impacts of short-time scale water column variability on broadband high-frequency acoustic wave propagation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Eickmeier, Justin

Acoustical oceanography is one way to study the ocean, its internal layers, boundaries and all processes occurring within using underwater acoustics. Acoustical sensing techniques allows for the measurement of ocean processes from within that logistically or financially preclude traditional in-situ measurements. Acoustic signals propagate as pressure wavefronts from a source to a receiver through an ocean medium with variable physical parameters. The water column physical parameters that change acoustic wave propagation in the ocean include temperature, salinity, current, surface roughness, seafloor bathymetry, and vertical stratification over variable time scales. The impacts of short-time scale water column variability on acoustic wave propagation include coherent and incoherent surface reflections, wavefront arrival time delay, focusing or defocusing of the intensity of acoustic beams and refraction of acoustic rays. This study focuses on high-frequency broadband acoustic waves, and examines the influence of short-time scale water column variability on broadband high-frequency acoustics, wavefronts, from 7 to 28 kHz, in shallow water. Short-time scale variability is on the order of seconds to hours and the short-spatial scale variability is on the order of few centimeters. Experimental results were collected during an acoustic experiment along 100 m isobaths and data analysis was conducted using available acoustic wave propagation models. Three main topics are studied to show that acoustic waves are viable as a remote sensing tool to measure oceanographic parameters in shallow water. First, coherent surface reflections forming striation patterns, from multipath receptions, through rough surface interaction of broadband acoustic signals with the dynamic sea surface are analyzed. Matched filtered results of received acoustic waves are compared with a ray tracing numerical model using a sea surface boundary generated from measured water wave spectra at the time of signal propagation. It is determined that on a time scale of seconds, corresponding to typical periods of surface water waves, the arrival time of reflected acoustic signals from surface waves appear as striation patterns in measured data and can be accurately modelled by ray tracing. Second, changes in acoustic beam arrival angle and acoustic ray path influenced by isotherm depth oscillations are analyzed using an 8-element delay-sum beamformer. The results are compared with outputs from a two-dimensional (2-D) parabolic equation (PE) model using measured sound speed profiles (SSPs) in the water column. Using the method of beamforming on the received signal, the arrival time and angle of an acoustic beam was obtained for measured acoustic signals. It is determined that the acoustic ray path, acoustic beam intensity and angular spread are a function of vertical isotherm oscillations on a time scale of minutes and can be modeled accurately by a 2-D PE model. Third, a forward problem is introduced which uses acoustic wavefronts received on a vertical line array, 1.48 km from the source, in the lower part of the water column to infer range dependence or independence in the SSP. The matched filtering results of received acoustic wavefronts at all hydrophone depths are compared with a ray tracing routine augmented to calculate only direct path and bottom reflected signals. It is determined that the SSP range dependence can be inferred on a time scale of hours using an array of hydrophones spanning the water column. Sound speed profiles in the acoustic field were found to be range independent for 11 of the 23 hours in the measurements. A SSP cumulative reconstruction process, conducted from the seafloor to the sea surface, layer-by-layer, identifies critical segments in the SSP that define the ray path, arrival time and boundary interactions. Data-model comparison between matched filtered arrival time spread and arrival time output from the ray tracing was robust when the SSP measured at the receiver was input to the model. When the SSP measured nearest the source (at the same instant in time) was input to the ray tracing model, the data-model comparison was poor. It was determined that the cumulative sound speed change in the SSP near the source was 1.041 m/s greater than that of the SSP at the receiver and resulted in the poor data-model comparison. In this study, the influences on broadband acoustic wave propagation in the frequency range of 7 to 28 kHz of spatial and temporal changes in the oceanography of shallow water regions are addressed. Acoustic waves can be used as remote sensing tools to measure oceanographic parameters in shallow water and data-model comparison results show a direct relationship between the oceanographic variations and acoustic wave propagations.

Seismic seiches from the March 1964 Alaska earthquake: Chapter E in The Alaska earthquake, March 27, 1964: effects on hydrologic regimen

USGS Publications Warehouse

McGarr, Arthur; Vorhis, Robert C.

1968-01-01

Seismic seiches caused by the Alaska earthquake of March 27, 1964, were recorded at more than 850 surface-water gaging stations in North America and at 4 in Australia. In the United States, including Alaska and Hawaii, 763 of 6,435 gages registered seiches. Nearly all the seismic seiches were recorded at teleseismic distance. This is the first time such far-distant effects have been reported from surface-water bodies in North America. The densest occurrence of seiches was in States bordering the Gulf of Mexico. The seiches were recorded on bodies of water having a wide range in depth, width, and rate of flow. In a region containing many bodies of water, seiche distribution is more dependent on geologic and seismic factors than on hydro-dynamic ones. The concept that seiches are caused by the horizontal acceleration of water by seismic surface waves has been extended in this paper to show that the distribution of seiches is related to the amplitude distribution of short-period seismic surface waves. These waves have their greatest horizontal acceleration when their periods range from 5 to 15 seconds. Similarly, the water bodies on which seiches were recorded have low-order modes whose periods of oscillation also range from 5 to 15 seconds. Several factors seem to control the distribution of seiches. The most important is variations of thickness of low-rigidity sediments. This factor caused the abundance of seiches in the Gulf Coast area and along the edge of sedimentary overlaps. Major tectonic features such as thrust faults, basins, arches, and domes seem to control seismic waves and thus affect the distribution of seiches. Lateral refraction of seismic surface waves due to variations in local phase-velocity values was responsible for increase in seiche density in certain areas. For example, the Rocky Mountains provided a wave guide along which seiches were more numerous than in areas to either side. In North America, neither direction nor distance from the epicenter had any apparent effect on the distribution of seiches. Where seismic surface waves propagated into an area with thicker sediment, the horizontal acceleration increased about in proportion to the increasing thickness of the sediment. In the Mississippi Embayment however, where the waves emerged from high rigidity crust into the sediment, the horizontal acceleration increased near the edge of the embayment but decreased in the central part and formed a shadow zone. Because both seiches and seismic intensity depend on the horizontal acceleration from surface waves, the distribution of seiches may be used to map the seismic intensity that can be expected from future local earthquakes.

A topological study of gravity free-surface waves generated by bluff bodies using the method of steepest descents

PubMed Central

2016-01-01

The standard analytical approach for studying steady gravity free-surface waves generated by a moving body often relies upon a linearization of the physical geometry, where the body is considered asymptotically small in one or several of its dimensions. In this paper, a methodology that avoids any such geometrical simplification is presented for the case of steady-state flows at low speeds. The approach is made possible through a reduction of the water-wave equations to a complex-valued integral equation that can be studied using the method of steepest descents. The main result is a theory that establishes a correspondence between different bluff-bodied free-surface flow configurations, with the topology of the Riemann surface formed by the steepest descent paths. Then, when a geometrical feature of the body is modified, a corresponding change to the Riemann surface is observed, and the resultant effects to the water waves can be derived. This visual procedure is demonstrated for the case of two-dimensional free-surface flow past a surface-piercing ship and over an angled step in a channel. PMID:27493559

Water Surface Currents, Short Gravity-Capillary Waves and Radar Backscatter

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Atakturk, Serhad S.; Katsaros, Kristina B.

1993-01-01

Despite their importance for air-sea interaction and microwave remote sensing of the ocean surface, intrinsic properties of short gravity-capillary waves are not well established. This is largely due to water surface currents and their effects on the direct measurements of wave parameters conducted at a fixed point. Frequencies of small scale waves propagating on a surface which itself is in motion, are subject to Doppler shifts. Hence, the high frequency tail of the wave spectra obtained from such temporal observations is smeared. Conversion of this smeared measured-frequency spectra to intrinsic-frequency (or wavenumber) spectra requires corrections for the Doppler shifts. Such attempts in the past have not been very successful in particular when field data were used. This becomes evident if the amplitude modulation of short waves by underlying long waves is considered. Microwave radar studies show that the amplitude of a short wave component attains its maximum value near the crests and its minimum in the troughs of the long waves. Doppler-shifted wave data yield similar results but much larger in modulation magnitude, as expected. In general, Doppler shift corrections reduce the modulation magnitude. Overcorrection may result in a negligible modulation or even in a strong modulation with the maximum amplitude in the wave troughs. The latter situation is clearly contradictory to our visual observations as well as the radar results and imply that the advection by currents is overestimated. In this study, a differential-advection approach is used in which small scale waves are advected by the currents evaluated not at the free surface, but at a depth proportional to their wavelengths. Applicability of this approach is verified by the excellent agreement in phase and magnitude of short-wave modulation between results based on radar and on wave-gauge measurements conducted on a lake.

Surface-wave-sustained plasma torch for water treatment

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Marinova, P.; Benova, E.; Todorova, Y.; Topalova, Y.; Yotinov, I.; Atanasova, M.; Krcma, F.

2018-02-01

In this study the effects of water treatment by surface-wave-sustained plasma torch at 2.45 GHz are studied. Changes in two directions are obtained: (i) changes of the plasma characteristics during the interaction with the water; (ii) water physical and chemical characteristics modification as a result of the plasma treatment. In addition, deactivation of Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria in suspension are registered. A number of charged and excited particles from the plasma interact with the water. As a result the water chemical and physical characteristics such as the water conductivity, pH, H2O2 concentration are modified. It is observed that the effect depends on the treatment time, wave power, and volume of the treated liquid. At specific discharge conditions determined by the wave power, gas flow, discharge tube radius, thickness and permittivity, the surface-wave-sustained discharge (SWD) operating at atmospheric pressure in argon is strongly non-equilibrium with electron temperature T e much higher than the temperature of the heavy particles (gas temperature T g). It has been observed that SWD argon plasma with T g close to the room temperature is able to produce H2O2 in the water with high efficiency at short exposure times (less than 60 sec). The H2O2 decomposition is strongly dependant on the temperature thus the low operating gas temperature is crucial for the H2O2 production efficiency. After scaling up the device, the observed effects can be applied for the waste water treatment in different facilities. The innovation will be useful especially for the treatment of waters and materials for medical application.

Assessing the performance of wave breaking parameterizations in shallow waters in spectral wave models

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lin, Shangfei; Sheng, Jinyu

2017-12-01

Depth-induced wave breaking is the primary dissipation mechanism for ocean surface waves in shallow waters. Different parametrizations were developed for parameterizing depth-induced wave breaking process in ocean surface wave models. The performance of six commonly-used parameterizations in simulating significant wave heights (SWHs) is assessed in this study. The main differences between these six parameterizations are representations of the breaker index and the fraction of breaking waves. Laboratory and field observations consisting of 882 cases from 14 sources of published observational data are used in the assessment. We demonstrate that the six parameterizations have reasonable performance in parameterizing depth-induced wave breaking in shallow waters, but with their own limitations and drawbacks. The widely-used parameterization suggested by Battjes and Janssen (1978, BJ78) has a drawback of underpredicting the SWHs in the locally-generated wave conditions and overpredicting in the remotely-generated wave conditions over flat bottoms. The drawback of BJ78 was addressed by a parameterization suggested by Salmon et al. (2015, SA15). But SA15 had relatively larger errors in SWHs over sloping bottoms than BJ78. We follow SA15 and propose a new parameterization with a dependence of the breaker index on the normalized water depth in deep waters similar to SA15. In shallow waters, the breaker index of the new parameterization has a nonlinear dependence on the local bottom slope rather than the linear dependence used in SA15. Overall, this new parameterization has the best performance with an average scatter index of ∼8.2% in comparison with the three best performing existing parameterizations with the average scatter index between 9.2% and 13.6%.

Integration of a laser doppler vibrometer and adaptive optics system for acoustic-optical detection in the presence of random water wave distortions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Land, Phillip; Robinson, Dennis; Roeder, James; Cook, Dean; Majumdar, Arun K.

2016-05-01

A new technique has been developed for improving the Signal-to-Noise Ratio (SNR) of underwater acoustic signals measured above the water's surface. This technique uses a Laser Doppler Vibrometer (LDV) and an Adaptive Optics (AO) system (consisting of a fast steering mirror, deformable mirror, and Shack-Hartmann Wavefront Sensor) for mitigating the effect of surface water distortions encountered while remotely recording underwater acoustic signals. The LDV is used to perform non-contact vibration measurements of a surface via a two beam laser interferometer. We have demonstrated the feasibility of this technique to overcome water distortions artificially generated on the surface of the water in a laboratory tank. In this setup, the LDV beam penetrates the surface of the water and travels down to be reflected off a submerged acoustic transducer. The reflected or returned beam is then recorded by the LDV as a vibration wave measurement. The LDV extracts the acoustic wave information while the AO mitigates the water surface distortions, increasing the overall SNR. The AO system records the Strehl ratio, which is a measure of the quality of optical image formation. In a perfect optical system the Strehl ratio is unity, however realistic systems with imperfections have Strehl ratios below one. The operation of the AO control system in open-loop and closed-loop configurations demonstrates the utility of the AO-based LDV for many applications.

The influence of pore-fluid in the soil on ground vibrations from a tunnel embedded in a layered half-space

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Yuan, Zonghao; Cao, Zhigang; Boström, Anders; Cai, Yuanqiang

2018-04-01

A computationally efficient semi-analytical solution for ground-borne vibrations from underground railways is proposed and used to investigate the influence of hydraulic boundary conditions at the scattering surfaces and the moving ground water table on ground vibrations. The arrangement of a dry soil layer with varying thickness resting on a saturated poroelastic half-space, which includes a circular tunnel subject to a harmonic load at the tunnel invert, creates the scenario of a moving water table for research purposes in this paper. The tunnel is modelled as a hollow cylinder, which is made of viscoelastic material and buried in the half-space below the ground water table. The wave field in the dry soil layer consists of up-going and down-going waves while the wave field in the tunnel wall consists of outgoing and regular cylindrical waves. The complete solution for the saturated half-space with a cylindrical hole is composed of down-going plane waves and outgoing cylindrical waves. By adopting traction-free boundary conditions on the ground surface and continuity conditions at the interfaces of the two soil layers and of the tunnel and the surrounding soil, a set of algebraic equations can be obtained and solved in the transformed domain. Numerical results show that the moving ground water table can cause an uncertainty of up to 20 dB for surface vibrations.

A (2+1)-dimensional Korteweg-de Vries type equation in water waves: Lie symmetry analysis; multiple exp-function method; conservation laws

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Adem, Abdullahi Rashid

2016-05-01

We consider a (2+1)-dimensional Korteweg-de Vries type equation which models the shallow-water waves, surface and internal waves. In the analysis, we use the Lie symmetry method and the multiple exp-function method. Furthermore, conservation laws are computed using the multiplier method.

Underwater MASW to evaluate stiffness of water-bottom sediments

USGS Publications Warehouse

Park, C.B.; Miller, R.D.; Xia, J.; Ivanov, J.; Sonnichsen, G.V.; Hunter, J.A.; Good, R.L.; Burns, R.A.; Christian, H.

2005-01-01

The multichannel analysis of surface waves (MASW) is initially intended as a land survey method to investigate the near-surface materials for their elastic properties. The acquired data are first analyzed for dispersion characteristics and, from these the shear-wave velocity is estimated using an inversion technique. Land applications show the potential of the MASW method to map 2D bedrock surface, zones of low strength, Poisson's ratio, voids, as well as to generate shear-wave profiles for various othe geotechnical problems. An overview is given of several underwater applications of the MASW method to characterize stiffness distribution of water-bottom sediments. The first application details the survey under shallow-water (1-6 m) in the Fraser River (Canada). The second application is an innovative experimental marine seismic survey in the North Atlantic Ocean near oil fields in Grand Bank offshore Newfoundland.

A Laboratory Study of a Water Surface in Response to Rainfall

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Liu, Ren; Liu, Xinan; Duncan, James

2016-11-01

The shape of a water surface in response to the impact of raindrops is studied experimentally in a 1.22-m-by-1.22-m water pool with a water depth of 0.3 m. Simulated raindrops are generated by an array of 22-gauge hypodermic needles that are attached to the bottom of an open-surface water tank. The tank is connected to a 2D translation stage to provide a small-radius horizontal circular or oval motion to the needles, thus avoiding repeated drop impacts at the same location under each needle. The drop diameter is about 2.6 mm and the height of the water tank above the water surface of the pool is varied from 1 m to 4.8 m to provide different impact velocities. The water surface features including stalks, crowns and ring waves are measured with a cinematic laser-induced- fluorescence (LIF) technique. It is found that the average stalk height is strongly correlated to the impact velocities of raindrops and the phase speeds of ring waves inside the rain field are different from that measured outside the rain field.

Triad Resonance in the Gravity-Acoustic Family

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kadri, U.

2015-12-01

Resonance interactions of waves play a prominent role in energy share among the different wave types involved. Such interactions may significantly contribute, among others, to the evolution of the ocean energy spectrum by exchanging energy between surface-gravity waves; surface and internal gravity waves; or even surface and compression-type waves, that can transfer energy from the upper ocean through the whole water column reaching down to the seafloor. A resonant triad occurs among a triplet of waves, usually involving interaction of nonlinear terms of second order perturbed equations. Until recently, it has been believed that in a homogeneous fluid a resonant triad is possible only when tension forces are included, or at the limit of a shallow water, and that when the compressibility of water is considered, no resonant triads can occur within the family of gravity-acoustic waves. However, more recently it has been proved that, under some circumstances, resonant triads comprising two opposing surface-gravity waves of similar periods (though not identical) and a much longer acoustic-gravity wave, of almost double the frequency, exist [Kadri and Stiassnie 2013, J. Fluid Mech.735 R6]. Here, I report on a new resonant triad involving a gravity wave and two acoustic waves of almost double the length. Interestingly, the two acoustic waves propagate in the same direction with similar wavelengths, that are almost double of that of the gravity wave. The evolution of the wave triad amplitudes is periodic and it is derived analytically, in terms of Jacobian elliptic functions and elliptic integrals. The physical importance of this type of triad interactions is the modulation of pertinent acoustic signals, leading to inaccurate signal perceptions. Enclosed figure: presents an example spatio-temporal evolution of the wave triad amplitudes. The gravity wave (top) remains almost unaltered, while the envelope slowly displaces to the left. However, the prescribed acoustic envelope (middle) travels relatively fast to the right minimising the interaction time. Consequently, the resultant acoustic wave envelope (bottom) might be significantly smaller. As the two acoustic beams concurrently move away from the gravity wave, with disparate group velocities, the resonant interaction gradually vanishes.

Biological implications of the hydrodynamics of swimming at or near the surface and in shallow water.

PubMed

Blake, R W

2009-03-01

The origins and effects of wave drag at and near the surface and in shallow water are discussed in terms of the dispersive waves generated by streamlined technical bodies of revolution and by semi-aquatic and aquatic animals with a view to bearing on issues regarding the design and function of autonomous surface and underwater vehicles. A simple two-dimensional model based on energy flux, allowing assessment of drag and its associated wave amplitude, is applied to surface swimming in Lesser Scaup ducks and is in good agreement with measured values. It is argued that hydrodynamic limitations to swimming at speeds associated with the critical Froude number ( approximately 0.5) and hull speed do not necessarily set biological limitations as most behaviours occur well below the hull speed. From a comparative standpoint, the need for studies on the hull displacement of different forms is emphasized. For forms in surface proximity, drag is a function of both Froude and Reynolds numbers. Whilst the depth dependence of wave drag is not particularly sensitive to Reynolds number, its magnitude is, with smaller and slower forms subject to relatively less drag augmentation than larger, faster forms that generate additional resistance due to ventilation and spray. A quasi-steady approach to the hydrodynamics of swimming in shallow water identifies substantial drag increases relative to the deeply submerged case at Froude numbers of about 0.9 that could limit the performance of semi-aquatic and aquatic animals and autonomous vehicles. A comparative assessment of fast-starting trout and upside down catfish shows that the energy losses of fast-starting fish are likely to be less for fish in surface proximity in deep water than for those in shallow water. Further work on unsteady swimming in both circumstances is encouraged. Finally, perspectives are offered as to how autonomous surface and underwater vehicles in surface proximity and shallow water could function to avoid prohibitive hydrodynamic resistance, thereby increasing their operational life.

Modulations of Driven Nonlinear Surface Waves on Water and Liquid Helium-4.

DTIC Science & Technology

1985-06-01

loop to control drive amplitude. 63 CHAPTER III. DATA AND INTERPRETATION. Section 5. Cockscombs. 25. Cockscomb in water at f/30. 67 26. Double...annular trough, sealed and then partially filled with normal or superfluid helium, is oscillated vertically and supported 6 . . ... . . . . . 41 700...44 0 .0 0 00 loudspeaker surface wave sealed trough transducer shel oo •Figure 3. Schmatic of the helium experiment. 8 r

Classification of regimes of internal solitary waves transformation over a shelf-slope topography

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Terletska, Kateryna; Maderich, Vladimir; Talipova, Tatiana; Brovchenko, Igor; Jung, Kyung Tae

2015-04-01

The internal waves shoal and dissipate as they cross abrupt changes of the topography in the coastal ocean, estuaries and in the enclosed water bodies. They can form near the coast internal bores propagating into the shallows and re-suspend seabed pollutants that may have serious ecological consequences. Internal solitary waves (ISW) with trapped core can transport masses of water and marine organisms for some distance. The transport of cold, low-oxygen waters results in nutrient pumping. These facts require development of classification of regimes of the ISWs transformation over a shelf-slope topography to recognize 'hot spots' of wave energy dissipation on the continental shelf. A new classification of regimes of internal solitary wave interaction with the shelf-slope topography in the framework of two-layer fluid is proposed. We introduce a new three-dimensional diagram based on parameters α ,β , γ. Here α is the nondimensional wave amplitude normalized on the thermocline thickness α = ain/h1 (α > 0), β is the blocking parameter introduced in (Talipova et al., 2013) that is the ratio of the height of the bottom layer on the the shelf step h2+ to the incident wave amplitude ain, β = h2+/ain (β > -3), and γ is the parameter inverse to the slope inclination (γ > 0.01). Two mechanisms are important during wave shoaling: (i) wave breaking resulting in mixing and (ii) changing of the polarity of the initial wave of depression on the slope. Range of the parameters at which wave breaking occurs can be defined using the criteria, obtained empirically (Vlasenko and Hutter, 2002). In the three-dimensional diagram this criteria is represented by the surface f1(β,γ) = 0 that separates the region of parameters where breaking takes place from the region without breaking. The polarity change surface f2(α,β) = 0 is obtained from the condition of equality of the depth of upper layer h1 to the depth of the lower layer h2. In the two-layer stratification waves of depression may be converted to wave of elevation at the 'turning point' (h2 = h1) as they propagate from deep water onto a shallow shelf. Thus intersecting surfaces f1 and f2 divide three-dimensional diagram into four zones. Zone I located above two surfaces and corresponds to the non breaking regime. Zone II lies above 'breaking' surfaces but below the surface of changing polarity and corresponds to regime of changing polarity without breaking. Zone III lies above surface of changing polarity but below 'breaking' surfaces and corresponds to regime of wave breaking without changing polarity. Zone IV that located below two surfaces and corresponds to the regime of wave breaking with changing polarity. Regimes predicted by diagram agree with results of numerical modelling, laboratory and observation data. Based on the proposed diagram the regions in α, β, γ space with a high energy dissipation of ISW passed over the shelf-slope topography are distinguished. References Talipova T., Terletska K., Maderich V, Brovchenko I., Jung K.T., Pelinovsky E. and Grimshaw R. 2013. Internal solitary wave transformation over the bottom step: loss of energy. Phys. Fluids, 25, 032110 Vlasenko V., Hutter K. 2002. Numerical Experiments on the Breaking of Solitary Internal Waves over a Slope-Shelf Topography. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 32 (6), 1779-1793

Dynamic Leidenfrost temperature on micro-textured surfaces: Acoustic wave absorption into thin vapor layer

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Jerng, Dong Wook; Kim, Dong Eok

2018-01-01

The dynamic Leidenfrost phenomenon is governed by three types of pressure potentials induced via vapor hydrodynamics, liquid dynamic pressure, and the water hammer effect resulting from the generation of acoustic waves at the liquid-vapor interface. The prediction of the Leidenfrost temperature for a dynamic droplet needs quantitative evaluation and definition for each of the pressure fields. In particular, the textures on a heated surface can significantly affect the vapor hydrodynamics and the water hammer pressure. We present a quantitative model for evaluating the water hammer pressure on micro-textured surfaces taking into account the absorption of acoustic waves into the thin vapor layer. The model demonstrates that the strength of the acoustic flow into the liquid droplet, which directly contributes to the water hammer pressure, depends on the magnitude of the acoustic resistance (impedance) in the droplet and the vapor region. In consequence, the micro-textures of the surface and the increased spacing between them reduce the water hammer coefficient ( kh ) defined as the ratio of the acoustic flow into the droplet to total generated flow. Aided by numerical calculations that solve the laminar Navier-Stokes equation for the vapor flow, we also predict the dynamic Leidenfrost temperature on a micro-textured surface with reliable accuracy consistent with the experimental data.

Laboratory Studies of Sea-Ice-Wave Interactions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Monty, J.; Meylan, M. H.; Babanin, A. V.; Toffoli, A.; Bennetts, L.

2016-12-01

A world-first facility for studying the Marginal Ice Zone has been constructed in the Michell Hydrodynamics Laboratory at the University of Melbourne. A 14m long wave tank (0.75m wide, 0.6m deep) resides in a freezer, where air temperature can be controlled down to -15C. This permits the freezing of the water surface. Large stainless steel ice-making trays (up to 4 m long) are also available to create ice of desired thickness and microstructure, which can be lowered onto the water surface. A computer controlled wave generator is capable of creating waves of any desired form. The temperature of the water in the tank can also be controlled between 2 and 30C. The tank frame is constructed of marine-treated wood and the entire tank is glass and acrylic, permitting the use of corrosive fluids, such as salt water. Here we present the first laboratory experiments of break-up of a controlled thickness, fresh water ice sheet impacted by regular and JONSWAP spectrum surface waves. The geometry of the resultant ice-floes is measured with high-resolution, time-resolved imaging, providing the crucial data of floe size distribution. Initial observations show that, in the case of high steepness waves, the primary mechanisms of ice break-up at the ice edge are overwash and rafting, both of which put weight on the ice interior to the ice-water interface. This additional weight (and impact in the case of rafting) breaks more ice, which allows overwash and rafting deeper into the ice sheet, breaking more ice and so on. For lower steepness waves, overwash and rafting are still present but far less significant. Finally, results of vertical ice movement using laser height gauges will be presented showing the attenuation of waves into an ice sheet and through a pack of ice floes. These results are compared with field data and theory available (e.g. Squire & Moore, Nature, 1980 and Kohout et al., Nature, 2014).

Kinematics and dynamics of green water on a fixed platform in a large wave basin in focusing wave and random wave conditions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Chuang, Wei-Liang; Chang, Kuang-An; Mercier, Richard

2018-06-01

Green water kinematics and dynamics due to wave impingements on a simplified geometry, fixed platform were experimentally investigated in a large, deep-water wave basin. Both plane focusing waves and random waves were employed in the generation of green water. The focusing wave condition was designed to create two consecutive plunging breaking waves with one impinging on the frontal vertical wall of the fixed platform, referred as wall impingement, and the other directly impinging on the deck surface, referred as deck impingement. The random wave condition was generated using the JONSWAP spectrum with a significant wave height approximately equal to the freeboard. A total of 179 green water events were collected in the random wave condition. By examining the green water events in random waves, three different flow types are categorized: collapse of overtopping wave, fall of bulk water, and breaking wave crest. The aerated flow velocity was measured using bubble image velocimetry, while the void fraction was measured using fiber optic reflectometry. For the plane focusing wave condition, measurements of impact pressure were synchronized with the flow velocity and void fraction measurements. The relationship between the peak pressures and the pressure rise times is examined. For the high-intensity impact in the deck impingement events, the peak pressures are observed to be proportional to the aeration levels. The maximum horizontal velocities in the green water events in random waves are well represented by the lognormal distribution. Ritter's solution is shown to quantitatively describe the green water velocity distributions under both the focusing wave condition and the random wave condition. A prediction equation for green water velocity distribution under random waves is proposed.

Ultrasound for non-invasive fluid droplet detection inside a sealed container

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Glass, S. W.; Good, M. S.; Roy, S.; Luzi, F.

2017-02-01

Ultrasound has long been known to be capable of measuring water level. Zero-degree ultrasound transducers may be used to send an L-wave through the fluid and receive a reflected signal from the fluid/gas interface surface. The level of the fluid is proportional to the sound wave time of flight to traverse the water path. This approach may even be used from outside the fluid containment wall by sending the wave through the tank or pipe bottom. The approach, however, does not work well if there is only a thin layer of fluid consisting of one or two millimeters or even only a few droplets. Surface waves are also known to be sensitive to the presence or absence of fluid on a surface. A surface wave may be transmitted a significant distance by a transmitting transducer and then received by a similar transducer. If the surface along the wave path is wet with even a few droplets of fluid, the surface wave may be significantly attenuated. Generating and measuring such a surface wave from the opposite side of a tank or pipe containment wall and separating the near-wall surface wave from the far-wall surface wave, however, is more challenging. The feasibility of an approach for producing a surface wave on the opposite side of a steel plate to sense the presence or absence of fluid is discussed. This approach is supported by 2-D finite element modeling of the measurement configuration and by empirical demonstration of the technique's sensitivity. This technique was developed for measurement of a very small amount of fluid that may condense within a used nuclear fuel canister after it cools for several years. Early detection of fluid would provide advance warning of potential degradation to internal components in time for mitigation or management of the waste inside that container. Other potential applications include non-intrusive detection of trace liquids within any sealed container, within inaccessible plena of aircrafts or within other inaccessible complex welded skin structures.

Surface Gravity Waves: Resonance in a Fish Tank

ERIC Educational Resources Information Center

Sinick, Scott J.; Lynch, John J.

2010-01-01

In this work, an inexpensive 10-gallon glass aquarium was used to study wave motion in water. The waves travel at speeds comparable to a person walking ([approximately]1 m/s). The scale of the motion allows for distances to be measured with a meterstick and for times to be measured with a stopwatch. For a wide range of water depths, standing waves…

Effect of film slicks on near-surface wind

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Charnotskii, Mikhail; Ermakov, Stanislav; Ostrovsky, Lev; Shomina, Olga

2016-09-01

The transient effects of horizontal variation of sea-surface wave roughness due to surfactant films on near-surface turbulent wind are studied theoretically and experimentally. Here we suggest two practical schemes for calculating variations of wind velocity profiles near the water surface, the average short-wave roughness of which is varying in space and time when a film slick is present. The schemes are based on a generalized two-layer model of turbulent air flow over a rough surface and on the solution of the continuous model involving the equation for turbulent kinetic energy of the air flow. Wave tank studies of wind flow over wind waves in the presence of film slicks are described and compared with theory.

Laboratory study of spectral waves over a muddy bottom

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Maxeiner, E.; Dalrymple, R. A.

2010-12-01

The attenuation of water waves propagating over a muddy ocean floor has been studied extensively both analytically and experimentally over the past 30 years. Possible mechanisms for this include surface wave interactions with the bottom, surface wave interactions with waves formed at the water/mud interface (lutocline) and shear instability at the water/mud interface. Typically these studies have focused on monochromatic waves. Observations of wave attenuation in the field, however, are subject to a spectrum of wave frequencies and sizes. A few field studies (Sheremet and Stone, 2003; Elgar and Raubenheimer, 2008) have explored the possible effects that a wide spectrum of wave frequencies may have on wave damping mechanisms. In this study, the wave attenuation exhibited by a sea spectrum over a muddy bottom is studied experimentally in a laboratory for the first time. Using an 18 m-long wave tank at the Coastal Engineering Laboratory at Johns Hopkins University, a piston-style wave maker is used to create both monochromatic and spectral waves. A 10 m-long section of the tank floor incorporates a recessed layer of kaolinite clay which subsequently mixes with the overlying water in the presence of waves. Testing consists of three phases. First, a series of monochromatic wave trains are produced over a range of wave frequencies and in a range of water depths to assess the damping behavior with respect to a variety of parameters such as wave frequency, wave height and water depth. Damping is assessed by comparing wave height at various longitudinal locations in the tank. Second, “wave beats” are created by superimposing waves of two frequencies to create a longer envelope. Third, the wave maker is used to generate a representative random sea condition, based on the Pierson-Moskowitz sea spectrum. For this type of testing, damping is assessed by measuring wave energy flux over a period of time at various longitudinal locations in the tank. Spectral analysis is also performed at these locations to track changing spectral energy, as previous studies have hypothesized mechanisms of energy transfer between waves of different frequencies. This study is part of a Multidisciplinary University Research Initiative (MURI), which includes on computational, laboratory and field studies of wave damping in nearshore areas of the Gulf of Mexico along the coast of Louisiana.

Observations and a model of undertow over the inner continental shelf

USGS Publications Warehouse

Lentz, Steven J.; Fewings, Melanie; Howd, Peter; Fredericks, Janet; Hathaway, Kent

2008-01-01

Onshore volume transport (Stokes drift) due to surface gravity waves propagating toward the beach can result in a compensating Eulerian offshore flow in the surf zone referred to as undertow. Observed offshore flows indicate that wave-driven undertow extends well offshore of the surf zone, over the inner shelves of Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts, and North Carolina. Theoretical estimates of the wave-driven offshore transport from linear wave theory and observed wave characteristics account for 50% or more of the observed offshore transport variance in water depths between 5 and 12 m, and reproduce the observed dependence on wave height and water depth.During weak winds, wave-driven cross-shelf velocity profiles over the inner shelf have maximum offshore flow (1–6 cm s−1) and vertical shear near the surface and weak flow and shear in the lower half of the water column. The observed offshore flow profiles do not resemble the parabolic profiles with maximum flow at middepth observed within the surf zone. Instead, the vertical structure is similar to the Stokes drift velocity profile but with the opposite direction. This vertical structure is consistent with a dynamical balance between the Coriolis force associated with the offshore flow and an along-shelf “Hasselmann wave stress” due to the influence of the earth’s rotation on surface gravity waves. The close agreement between the observed and modeled profiles provides compelling evidence for the importance of the Hasselmann wave stress in forcing oceanic flows. Summer profiles are more vertically sheared than either winter profiles or model profiles, for reasons that remain unclear.

The oceanic boundary layer driven by wave breaking with stochastic variability. Part 1. Direct numerical simulations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Sullivan, Peter P.; McWilliams, James C.; Melville, W. Kendall

2004-05-01

We devise a stochastic model for the effects of breaking waves and fit its distribution functions to laboratory and field data. This is used to represent the space time structure of momentum and energy forcing of the oceanic boundary layer in turbulence-resolving simulations. The aptness of this breaker model is evaluated in a direct numerical simulation (DNS) of an otherwise quiescent fluid driven by an isolated breaking wave, and the results are in good agreement with laboratory measurements. The breaker model faithfully reproduces the bulk features of a breaking event: the mean kinetic energy decays at a rate approaching t(-1) , and a long-lived vortex (eddy) is generated close to the water surface. The long lifetime of this vortex (more than 50 wave periods) makes it effective in energizing the surface region of oceanic boundary layers. Next, a comparison of several different DNS of idealized oceanic boundary layers driven by different surface forcing (i.e. constant current (as in Couette flow), constant stress, or a mixture of constant stress plus stochastic breakers) elucidates the importance of intermittent stress transmission to the underlying currents. A small amount of active breaking, about 1.6% of the total water surface area at any instant in time, significantly alters the instantaneous flow patterns as well as the ensemble statistics. Near the water surface a vigorous downwelling upwelling pattern develops at the head and tail of each three-dimensional breaker. This enhances the vertical velocity variance and generates both negative- and positive-signed vertical momentum flux. Analysis of the mean velocity and scalar profiles shows that breaking effectively increases the surface roughness z_o by more than a factor of 30; for our simulations z_o/lambda {≈} 0.04 to 0.06, where lambda is the wavelength of the breaking wave. Compared to a flow driven by a constant current, the extra mixing from breakers increases the mean eddy viscosity by more than a factor of 10 near the water surface. Breaking waves alter the usual balance of production and dissipation in the turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) budget; turbulent and pressure transports and breaker work are important sources and sinks in the budget. We also show that turbulent boundary layers driven by constant current and constant stress (i.e. with no breaking) differ in fundamental ways. The additional freedom provided by a constant-stress boundary condition permits finite velocity variances at the water surface, so that flows driven by constant stress mimic flows with weakly and statistically homogeneous breaking waves.

Damping of short gravity-capillary waves due to oil derivatives film on the water surface

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Sergievskaya, Irina; Ermakov, Stanislav; Lazareva, Tatyana

2016-10-01

In this paper new results of laboratory studies of damping of gravity-capillary waves on the water surface covered by kerosene are presented and compared with our previous analysis of characteristics of crude oil and diesel fuel films. Investigations of kerosene films were carried out in a wide range values of film thicknesses (from some hundreds millimetres to a few millimetres) and in a wide range of surface wave frequencies (from 10 to 27 Hz). The selected frequency range corresponds to the operating wavelengths of microwave, X- to Ka-band radars typically used for the ocean remote sensing. The studied range of film thickness covers typical thicknesses of routine spills in the ocean. It is obtained that characteristics of waves, measured in the presence of oil derivatives films differ from those for crude oil films, in particular, because the volume viscosity of oil derivatives and crude oil is strongly different. To retrieve parameters of kerosene films from the experimental data the surface wave damping was analyzed theoretically in the frame of a model of two-layer fluid. The films are assumed to be soluble, so the elasticity on the upper and lower boundaries is considered as a function of wave frequency. Physical parameters of oil derivative films were estimated when tuning the film parameters to fit theory and experiment. Comparison between wave damping due to crude oil, kerosene and diesel fuel films have shown some capabilities of distinguishing of oil films from remote sensing of short surface waves.

High-resolution shear-wave reflection profiling to image offset in unconsolidated near-surface sediments

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bailey, Bevin L.

S-wave reflection profiling has many theoretical advantages, when compared to P-wave profiling, such as high-resolution potential, greater sensitivities to lithologic changes and insensitivity to the water table and pore fluids, and could be particularly useful in near-surface settings. However, S-wave surveys can be plagued by processing pitfalls unique to near-surface studies such as interference of Love waves with reflections, and the stacking of Love waves as coherent noise, leading to possible misinterpretations of the subsurface. Two lines of S-wave data are processed and used to locate previously unknown faults in Quaternary sediments in a region where earthquake activity poses a threat to surface structures. This study provides clear examples of processing pitfalls such as Love waves with hyperbolic appearances on shot gathers, and a CMP section with coherent noise that is easily misinterpreted as reflections. This study demonstrates pros and cons of using SH reflection data in the near surface.

14 CFR 29.563 - Structural ditching provisions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2011 CFR

2011-01-01

... speed landing conditions. The rotorcraft must initially contact the most critical wave for reasonably... the mean water surface. Rotor lift may be used to act through the center of gravity throughout the..., unsymmetrical rotorcraft loading, water wave action, rotorcraft inertia, and probable structural damage and...

14 CFR 27.563 - Structural ditching provisions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2014 CFR

2014-01-01

... speed landing conditions. The rotorcraft must initially contact the most critical wave for reasonably... the mean water surface. Rotor lift may be used to act through the center of gravity throughout the..., unsymmetrical rotorcraft loading, water wave action, rotorcraft inertia, and probable structural damage and...

14 CFR 27.563 - Structural ditching provisions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2013 CFR

2013-01-01

... speed landing conditions. The rotorcraft must initially contact the most critical wave for reasonably... the mean water surface. Rotor lift may be used to act through the center of gravity throughout the..., unsymmetrical rotorcraft loading, water wave action, rotorcraft inertia, and probable structural damage and...

14 CFR 27.563 - Structural ditching provisions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2011 CFR

2011-01-01

... speed landing conditions. The rotorcraft must initially contact the most critical wave for reasonably... the mean water surface. Rotor lift may be used to act through the center of gravity throughout the..., unsymmetrical rotorcraft loading, water wave action, rotorcraft inertia, and probable structural damage and...

14 CFR 27.563 - Structural ditching provisions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2010 CFR

2010-01-01

... speed landing conditions. The rotorcraft must initially contact the most critical wave for reasonably... the mean water surface. Rotor lift may be used to act through the center of gravity throughout the..., unsymmetrical rotorcraft loading, water wave action, rotorcraft inertia, and probable structural damage and...

14 CFR 29.563 - Structural ditching provisions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2012 CFR

2012-01-01

... speed landing conditions. The rotorcraft must initially contact the most critical wave for reasonably... the mean water surface. Rotor lift may be used to act through the center of gravity throughout the..., unsymmetrical rotorcraft loading, water wave action, rotorcraft inertia, and probable structural damage and...

14 CFR 29.563 - Structural ditching provisions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2010 CFR

2010-01-01

... speed landing conditions. The rotorcraft must initially contact the most critical wave for reasonably... the mean water surface. Rotor lift may be used to act through the center of gravity throughout the..., unsymmetrical rotorcraft loading, water wave action, rotorcraft inertia, and probable structural damage and...

14 CFR 29.563 - Structural ditching provisions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2014 CFR

2014-01-01

... speed landing conditions. The rotorcraft must initially contact the most critical wave for reasonably... the mean water surface. Rotor lift may be used to act through the center of gravity throughout the..., unsymmetrical rotorcraft loading, water wave action, rotorcraft inertia, and probable structural damage and...

14 CFR 29.563 - Structural ditching provisions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2013 CFR

2013-01-01

... speed landing conditions. The rotorcraft must initially contact the most critical wave for reasonably... the mean water surface. Rotor lift may be used to act through the center of gravity throughout the..., unsymmetrical rotorcraft loading, water wave action, rotorcraft inertia, and probable structural damage and...

14 CFR 27.563 - Structural ditching provisions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2012 CFR

2012-01-01

... speed landing conditions. The rotorcraft must initially contact the most critical wave for reasonably... the mean water surface. Rotor lift may be used to act through the center of gravity throughout the..., unsymmetrical rotorcraft loading, water wave action, rotorcraft inertia, and probable structural damage and...

Cyclic Steps and Antidunes : Relating Their Features to a Suspension Index

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Yokokawa, M.; Kishima, Y.; Parker, G.

2010-12-01

Cyclic Steps and Antidunes : Relating Their Features to a Suspension Index Miwa Yokokawa (1), Yasushi Kishima (1), Gary Parker (2, 3) 1: Osaka Institute of Technology, Hirakata, Osaka, Japan 2: Dept. of Civil & Environmental Engineering, University of Illinois, Urbana, Illinois, U.S.A. 3: Dept. of Geology, University of Illinois, Urbana, Illinois, U.S.A. There are very few comparative studies of the differences in hydraulic conditions and morphologic features of bed- and water-surface-waves associated with cyclic steps and antidunes. In this study, the features of both the bed and the water surface, as well as hydraulic conditions are examined over the spectrum from antidune to cyclic steps. Experiments were performed using a flume at the Osaka Institute of Technology. The resultant features of the bedforms are as follows. In the case of antidunes, bed waves and water surface waves are in phase except when they collapse. Antidunes show several kinds of behavior; migrating downstream, standing, or migrating upstream. Upstream-migrating antidunes are divided into non-breaking, and breaking-types. Breaking antidunes appear alternatively with the plane bed state. Cyclic steps migrate upstream regularly associated with trains of hydraulic jumps, which divide each step. There is a significant change in water depth at the hydraulic jump, so that the phasing between the bed waves and water surface waves break at the each hydraulic jump. There is a kind of compromise between cyclic steps and antidunes, which we designate as “intermediate steps”. They move upstream and are associated with regular trains of hydraulic jumps. The jumps, however, occasionally collapse toward upstream. When this happens, bed waves move rapidly upstream; low-amplitude water surface waves and bed waves become in phase all over the bed shortly after the collapse. Then after some time, water surface waves become sufficiently prominent to yield regular hydraulic jumps. This cycle is then repeated.The hydraulic conditions for these bedfoms were examined using three non-dimensional parameters, i.e. the Froude Number, the Suspension Index, and the dimensionless particle size. The suspension index is a newly introduced parameter which is the ratio of the shear velocity divided by the settling velocity of the sediment (u*/Vs). Data from previous experimental studies are examined together with the present data in studying the characteristic regimes of bedform formation. In a diagram of Froude Number v.s. Suspension Index, antidunes, intermediate steps and cyclic steps can be divided along the axis of the Suspension Index. In the lowest range of the suspension index, downstream-migrating antidunes and upstream-migrating antidunes that do not break are found. The intermediate steps discussed above are located in the middle range. The highest range corresponds to cyclic steps and breaking antidunes. As described above, the Suspension Index can serve as a scale to quantify the spectrum between antidunes and cyclic steps. The use of the parameter also helps verify that suspension plays an important role in the formation and maintenance of cyclic steps.

Quantitative photography of intermittency in surface wave turbulence

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Wright, W.; Budakian, R.; Putterman, S.J.

1997-12-31

At high amplitudes of excitation surface waves on water distribute their energy according to a Kolmogorov type of turbulent power spectrum. We have used diffusing light photography to measure the power spectrum and to quantify the presence of large structures in the turbulent state.

Long-period effects of the Denali earthquake on water bodies in the Puget Lowland: Observations and modeling

USGS Publications Warehouse

Barberopoulou, A.; Qamar, A.; Pratt, T.L.; Steele, W.P.

2006-01-01

Analysis of strong-motion instrument recordings in Seattle, Washington, resulting from the 2002 Mw 7.9 Denali, Alaska, earthquake reveals that amplification in the 0.2-to 1.0-Hz frequency band is largely governed by the shallow sediments both inside and outside the sedimentary basins beneath the Puget Lowland. Sites above the deep sedimentary strata show additional seismic-wave amplification in the 0.04- to 0.2-Hz frequency range. Surface waves generated by the Mw 7.9 Denali, Alaska, earthquake of 3 November 2002 produced pronounced water waves across Washington state. The largest water waves coincided with the area of largest seismic-wave amplification underlain by the Seattle basin. In the current work, we present reports that show Lakes Union and Washington, both located on the Seattle basin, are susceptible to large water waves generated by large local earthquakes and teleseisms. A simple model of a water body is adopted to explain the generation of waves in water basins. This model provides reasonable estimates for the water-wave amplitudes in swimming pools during the Denali earthquake but appears to underestimate the waves observed in Lake Union.

Oblique wave trapping by vertical permeable membrane barriers located near a wall

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Koley, Santanu; Sahoo, Trilochan

2017-12-01

The effectiveness of a vertical partial flexible porous membrane wave barrier located near a rigid vertical impermeable seawall for trapping obliquely incident surface gravity waves are analyzed in water of uniform depth under the assumption of linear water wave theory and small amplitude membrane barrier response. From the general formulation of the submerged membrane barrier, results for bottom-standing and surface-piercing barriers are computed and analyzed in special cases. Using the eigenfunction expansion method, the boundary-value problems are converted into series relations and then the required unknowns are obtained using the least squares approximation method. Various physical quantities of interests like reflection coefficient, wave energy dissipation, wave forces acting on the membrane barrier and the seawall are computed and analyzed for different values of the wave and structural parameters. The study will be useful in the design of the membrane wave barrier for the creation of tranquility zone in the lee side of the barrier to protect the seawall.

Improvement of the free-surface tension model in shallow water basin by using in-situ bottom-friction measurements

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Alekseenko, Elena; Kuznetsov, Konstantin; Roux, Bernard

2016-04-01

Wind stress on the free surface is the main driving force behind the circulation of the upper part of the ocean, which in hydrodynamic models are usually defined in terms of the coefficient of surface tension (Zhang et al., 2009, Davies et al., 2003). Moreover, wave motion impacts local currents and changes sea level, impacts the transport and the stratification of the entire water column. Influence of surface waves at the bottom currents is particularly pronounced in the shallow coastal systems. However, existing methods of parameterization of the surface tension have significant limits, especially in strong wind waves (Young et al., 2001, Jones et al., 2004) due to the difficulties of measuring the characteristics of surface waves in stormy conditions. Thus, the formula for calculating the coefficient of surface tension in our day is the actual problem in modeling fluid dynamics, particularly in the context of strong surface waves. In the hydrodynamic models usually a coefficient of surface tension is calculated once at the beginning of computation as a constant that depends on the averaged wind waves characteristic. Usually cases of strongly nonlinear wind waves are not taken into account, what significantly reduces the accuracy of the calculation of the flow structures and further calculation of the other processes in water basins, such as the spread of suspended matter and pollutants. Thus, wave motion influencing the pressure on the free surface and at the bottom must be considered in hydrodynamic models particularly in shallow coastal systems. A method of reconstruction of a free-surface drag coefficient based on the measured in-situ bottom pressure fluctuations is developed and applied in a three-dimensional hydrodynamic model MARS3D, developed by the French laboratory of IFREMER (IFREMER - French Research Institute for Marine Dynamics). MARS3D solves the Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible fluid in the Boussinesq approximation and with the hydrostatic assumption (Lazure and Dumas, 2008, Blumberg et al., 1986). Precisely, we introduce a formulation of the surface drag coefficient as a logarithmic function of the sea surface roughness (Zhang et al., 2009), which in turn can be predicted from the height and steepness of the waves (Taylor and Yelland, 2000), measured by the bottom pressure sensors. Using numerous field data, Taylor and Yelland (2000) showed that the surface drag coefficient values in lakes and sheltered waters are typically significantly higher than is observed in the open ocean. In particular, the effect of limited water depth is very significant in the case of the strong wind forcing. Wind waves propagating into shoaling water begin to be limited by bottom friction and become "younger". This kind of approach is used to predict a more relevant surface drag coefficient for the coastal areas of the Mediterranean Berre lagoon (France) for which experimental data of pressure measurements under storm conditions are available (Paquier, 2014). This is important to better understand the development problematics of the nearshore submerged aquatic vegetation (Alekseenko et al., 2013). *This work is supported by grant of Russian Foundation for Basic Research (RFBR) n°16-35-00526 and by the French Water Agency (Agence de l'Eau-RMC - convention n°2010-0042). References 1. E. Alekseenko E., Roux B., Sukhinov A., Kotarba R., Fougere D.: Near shoreline hydrodynamics in a Mediterranean lagoon. Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics, 20, 189-198, 2013. 2. Blumberg A.F. and Mellor G.L.: A description of a Tree-Dimensional Coastal Ocean Circulation Model, Geophysical Fluid Dynamics Program, Princeton Univ., Princeton, New Jersey, 1-16, 1986. 3. Davies A., Xing M., Jiuxing I.: Processes influencing wind-induced current profiles in near coastal stratified regions. Continental Shelf Research 23 (14-15): 1379-1400, 2003. 4. Jones, I.S.F. and Toba Y. (Eds.): Wind Stress over the Ocean. Cambridge Univ. Press, 307pp, 2001. 5. Lazure P. and Dumas F.: An external-internal mode coupling for a 3D hydrodynamical model for applications at regional scale (MARS). Adv. Wat. Res. 31: 233-250, 2008. 6. Paquier A-E.: - Interactions de la dynamique hydro-sédimentaire avec les herbiers de phanérogames, Étang de Berre ; PhD thesis Aix-Marseille University; 27 Nov. 2014. 7. Taylor P. and Yelland M.: The Dependence of Sea Surface Roughness on the Height and Steepness of the Waves, Physical Oceanography, 2000. 8. Young I.R., Banner M.L., Donelan M.A., Babanin A.V., Melville W.K., Veron F., and McCormic C.: An Integrated Study of the Wind Wave Source Term Balance in Finite Depth Water, J. Atmos. Oceanic Technol. 22: 814-831, 2004. 9. Zhang H, Sannasiraj S.A., and Chan E.S.: Wind Wave Effects on Hydrodynamic Modeling of Ocean Circulation in the South China Sea, The Open Civil Engineering Journal, 3, 48-61, 2009.

A Variational Reduction and the Existence of a Fully Localised Solitary Wave for the Three-Dimensional Water-Wave Problem with Weak Surface Tension

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Buffoni, Boris; Groves, Mark D.; Wahlén, Erik

2017-12-01

Fully localised solitary waves are travelling-wave solutions of the three- dimensional gravity-capillary water wave problem which decay to zero in every horizontal spatial direction. Their existence has been predicted on the basis of numerical simulations and model equations (in which context they are usually referred to as `lumps'), and a mathematically rigorous existence theory for strong surface tension (Bond number {β} greater than {1/3} ) has recently been given. In this article we present an existence theory for the physically more realistic case {0 < β < 1/3} . A classical variational principle for fully localised solitary waves is reduced to a locally equivalent variational principle featuring a perturbation of the functional associated with the Davey-Stewartson equation. A nontrivial critical point of the reduced functional is found by minimising it over its natural constraint set.

A Variational Reduction and the Existence of a Fully Localised Solitary Wave for the Three-Dimensional Water-Wave Problem with Weak Surface Tension

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Buffoni, Boris; Groves, Mark D.; Wahlén, Erik

2018-06-01

Fully localised solitary waves are travelling-wave solutions of the three- dimensional gravity-capillary water wave problem which decay to zero in every horizontal spatial direction. Their existence has been predicted on the basis of numerical simulations and model equations (in which context they are usually referred to as `lumps'), and a mathematically rigorous existence theory for strong surface tension (Bond number {β} greater than {1/3}) has recently been given. In this article we present an existence theory for the physically more realistic case {0 < β < 1/3}. A classical variational principle for fully localised solitary waves is reduced to a locally equivalent variational principle featuring a perturbation of the functional associated with the Davey-Stewartson equation. A nontrivial critical point of the reduced functional is found by minimising it over its natural constraint set.

A numerical study of wave-current interaction through surface and bottom stresses: Coastal ocean response to Hurricane Fran of 1996

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Xie, L.; Pietrafesa, L. J.; Wu, K.

2003-02-01

A three-dimensional wave-current coupled modeling system is used to examine the influence of waves on coastal currents and sea level. This coupled modeling system consists of the wave model-WAM (Cycle 4) and the Princeton Ocean Model (POM). The results from this study show that it is important to incorporate surface wave effects into coastal storm surge and circulation models. Specifically, we find that (1) storm surge models without coupled surface waves generally under estimate not only the peak surge but also the coastal water level drop which can also cause substantial impact on the coastal environment, (2) introducing wave-induced surface stress effect into storm surge models can significantly improve storm surge prediction, (3) incorporating wave-induced bottom stress into the coupled wave-current model further improves storm surge prediction, and (4) calibration of the wave module according to minimum error in significant wave height does not necessarily result in an optimum wave module in a wave-current coupled system for current and storm surge prediction.

Unsteady viscous effects in the flow over an oscillating surface. [mathematical model

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Lerner, J. I.

1972-01-01

A theoretical model for the interaction of a turbulent boundary layer with an oscillating wavy surface over which a fluid is flowing is developed, with an application to wind-driven water waves and to panel flutter in low supersonic flow. A systematic methodology is developed to obtain the surface pressure distribution by considering separately the effects on the perturbed flow of a mean shear velocity profile, viscous stresses, the turbulent Reynolds stresses, compressibility, and three-dimensionality. The inviscid theory is applied to the wind-water wave problem by specializing to traveling-wave disturbances, and the pressure magnitude and phase shift as a function of the wave phase speed are computed for a logarithmic mean velocity profile and compared with inviscid theory and experiment. The results agree with experimental evidence for the stabilization of the panel motion due to the influence of the unsteady boundary layer.

Airborne Lidar Bathymetry Beam Diagnostics Using an Underwater Optical Detector Array

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Birkebak, Matthew

The surface geometry of air-water interface is considered as an important factor affecting the performance of Airborne Lidar Bathymetry (ALB), and laser optical communication through the water surface. ALB is a remote sensing technique that utilizes a pulsed green (532 nm) laser mounted to an airborne platform in order to measure water depth. The water surface (i.e., air-water interface) can distort the light beam's ray-path geometry and add uncertainty to range calculation measurements. Previous studies on light refracting through a complex water surface are heavily dependent on theoretical models and simulations. In addition, only very limited work has been conducted to validate these theoretical models using experiments under well-controlled laboratory conditions. The goal of the study is to establish a clear relationship between water-surface conditions and the uncertainty of ALB measurement. This relationship will be determined by conducting more extensive empirical measurements to characterize the changes in beam slant path associated with a variety of short wavelength wind ripples, typically seen in ALB survey conditions. This study will focus on the effects of capillary and gravity-capillary waves with surface wavelengths smaller than the diameter of the laser beam on the water surface. Simulations using Monte-Carlo techniques of the ALB beam footprints and the environmental conditions were used to analyze the ray-path geometries. Based on the simulation results, laboratory experiments were then designed to test key parameters that have the greatest contribution on beam path and direction through the water. The laser beam dispersion experiments were conducted in well-controlled laboratory setting at the University of New Hampshire's Wave and Tow tank. The spatial elevations of the water surface were independently measured using a high resolution wave staff. The refracted laser beam footprint was measured using an underwater optical detector consisting of a 6x6 array of photodiodes. Image processing techniques were used to estimate the laser's incidence angle intercepted by the detector array. Beam patterns that resulted from intersection between the laser beam light field underwater and the detector array were modeled and used to calculate changes in position and orientation for water surface conditions containing wavelengths less than 0.1m. Finally, a total horizontal uncertainty (THU) model was estimated, which can be implemented in total propagated uncertainty (TPU) models for reporting as a measure of the quality of each measurement. The wave refraction error for various sea states and beam characteristics was successfully quantified using both experimental and analytical techniques.

Emerging Trends in the Sea State of the Beaufort and Chukchi Seas

DTIC Science & Technology

2016-07-06

Beaufort and Chukchi seas is controlled by the wind forcing and the amount of ice-free water available to generate surface waves. Clear trends in...the annual duration of the open water season and in the extent of the seasonal sea ice minimum suggest that the sea state should be increasing...In particular, larger waves are more common in years with less summer sea ice and/or a longer open water season, and peak wave periods are generally

Momentum and buoyancy transfer in atmospheric turbulent boundary layer over wavy water surface - Part 1: Harmonic wave

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Troitskaya, Yu. I.; Ezhova, E. V.; Zilitinkevich, S. S.

2013-10-01

The surface-drag and mass-transfer coefficients are determined within a self-consistent problem of wave-induced perturbations and mean fields of velocity and density in the air, using a quasi-linear model based on the Reynolds equations with down-gradient turbulence closure. Investigation of a harmonic wave propagating along the wind has disclosed that the surface drag is generally larger for shorter waves. This effect is more pronounced in the unstable and neutral stratification. The stable stratification suppresses turbulence, which leads to weakening of the momentum and mass transfer.

An Acoustic-Instrumented Mine for Studying Subsequent Burial

DTIC Science & Technology

2007-01-01

seawater . A strong reflection from the transducer face therefore indicates sediment flush with the mine surface (i.e., the mine surface is buried...variations in seawater sound speed and urethane sound speed that create a slight acoustic impedance mismatch at the water-urethane in- terface. The water...following was used: w. = \\//,„/2f/« TTH, U, T;Sinh( kh ) /„• = 0.237 0.52 /„, is the wave friction factor, Uw is the wave orbital velocity

Harvesting water wave energy by asymmetric screening of electrostatic charges on a nanostructured hydrophobic thin-film surface.

PubMed

Zhu, Guang; Su, Yuanjie; Bai, Peng; Chen, Jun; Jing, Qingshen; Yang, Weiqing; Wang, Zhong Lin

2014-06-24

Energy harvesting from ambient water motions is a desirable but underexplored solution to on-site energy demand for self-powered electronics. Here we report a liquid-solid electrification-enabled generator based on a fluorinated ethylene propylene thin film, below which an array of electrodes are fabricated. The surface of the thin film is charged first due to the water-solid contact electrification. Aligned nanowires created on the thin film make it hydrophobic and also increase the surface area. Then the asymmetric screening to the surface charges by the waving water during emerging and submerging processes causes the free electrons on the electrodes to flow through an external load, resulting in power generation. The generator produces sufficient output power for driving an array of small electronics during direct interaction with water bodies, including surface waves and falling drops. Polymer-nanowire-based surface modification increases the contact area at the liquid-solid interface, leading to enhanced surface charging density and thus electric output at an efficiency of 7.7%. Our planar-structured generator features an all-in-one design without separate and movable components for capturing and transmitting mechanical energy. It has extremely lightweight and small volume, making it a portable, flexible, and convenient power solution that can be applied on the ocean/river surface, at coastal/offshore areas, and even in rainy places. Considering the demonstrated scalability, it can also be possibly used in large-scale energy generation if layers of planar sheets are connected into a network.

Inclusion of surface gravity wave effects in vertical mixing parameterizations with application to Chesapeake Bay, USA

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Fisher, A. W.; Sanford, L. P.; Scully, M. E.; Suttles, S. E.

2016-02-01

Enhancement of wind-driven mixing by Langmuir turbulence (LT) may have important implications for exchanges of mass and momentum in estuarine and coastal waters, but the transient nature of LT and observational constraints make quantifying its impact on vertical exchange difficult. Recent studies have shown that wind events can be of first order importance to circulation and mixing in estuaries, prompting this investigation into the ability of second-moment turbulence closure schemes to model wind-wave enhanced mixing in an estuarine environment. An instrumented turbulence tower was deployed in middle reaches of Chesapeake Bay in 2013 and collected observations of coherent structures consistent with LT that occurred under regions of breaking waves. Wave and turbulence measurements collected from a vertical array of Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs) provided direct estimates of TKE, dissipation, turbulent length scale, and the surface wave field. Direct measurements of air-sea momentum and sensible heat fluxes were collected by a co-located ultrasonic anemometer deployed 3m above the water surface. Analyses of the data indicate that the combined presence of breaking waves and LT significantly influences air-sea momentum transfer, enhancing vertical mixing and acting to align stress in the surface mixed layer in the direction of Lagrangian shear. Here these observations are compared to the predictions of commonly used second-moment turbulence closures schemes, modified to account for the influence of wave breaking and LT. LT parameterizations are evaluated under neutrally stratified conditions and buoyancy damping parameterizations are evaluated under stably stratified conditions. We compare predicted turbulent quantities to observations for a variety of wind, wave, and stratification conditions. The effects of fetch-limited wave growth, surface buoyancy flux, and tidal distortion on wave mixing parameterizations will also be discussed.

Modification of land-atmosphere interactions by CO2 effects: Implications for summer dryness and heat wave amplitude

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lemordant, Léo.; Gentine, Pierre; Stéfanon, Marc; Drobinski, Philippe; Fatichi, Simone

2016-10-01

Plant stomata couple the energy, water, and carbon cycles. We use the framework of Regional Climate Modeling to simulate the 2003 European heat wave and assess how higher levels of surface CO2 may affect such an extreme event through land-atmosphere interactions. Increased CO2 modifies the seasonality of the water cycle through stomatal regulation and increased leaf area. As a result, the water saved during the growing season through higher water use efficiency mitigates summer dryness and the heat wave impact. Land-atmosphere interactions and CO2 fertilization together synergistically contribute to increased summer transpiration. This, in turn, alters the surface energy budget and decreases sensible heat flux, mitigating air temperature rise. Accurate representation of the response to higher CO2 levels and of the coupling between the carbon and water cycles is therefore critical to forecasting seasonal climate, water cycle dynamics, and to enhance the accuracy of extreme event prediction under future climate.

Simulation of asteroid impact on ocean surfaces, subsequent wave generation and the effect on US shorelines

DOE PAGES

Ezzedine, Souheil M.; Lomov, Ilya; Miller, Paul L.; ...

2015-05-19

As part of a larger effort involving members of several other organizations, we have conducted numerical simulations in support of emergency-response exercises of postulated asteroid ocean impacts. We have addressed the problem from source (asteroid entry) to ocean impact (splash) to wave generation, propagation and interaction with the U.S. shoreline. We simulated three impact sites. The first site is located off the east coast by Maryland's shoreline. The second site is located off of the West coast, the San Francisco bay. The third set of sites are situated in the Gulf of Mexico. Asteroid impacts on the ocean surface aremore » conducted using LLNL's hydrocode GEODYN to create the impact wave source for the shallow water wave propagation code, SWWP, a shallow depth averaged water wave code.« less

Measurement of stimulated Hawking emission in an analogue system.

PubMed

Weinfurtner, Silke; Tedford, Edmund W; Penrice, Matthew C J; Unruh, William G; Lawrence, Gregory A

2011-01-14

Hawking argued that black holes emit thermal radiation via a quantum spontaneous emission. To address this issue experimentally, we utilize the analogy between the propagation of fields around black holes and surface waves on moving water. By placing a streamlined obstacle into an open channel flow we create a region of high velocity over the obstacle that can include surface wave horizons. Long waves propagating upstream towards this region are blocked and converted into short (deep-water) waves. This is the analogue of the stimulated emission by a white hole (the time inverse of a black hole), and our measurements of the amplitudes of the converted waves demonstrate the thermal nature of the conversion process for this system. Given the close relationship between stimulated and spontaneous emission, our findings attest to the generality of the Hawking process.

Simulation of asteroid impact on ocean surfaces, subsequent wave generation and the effect on US shorelines

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Ezzedine, Souheil M.; Lomov, Ilya; Miller, Paul L.

As part of a larger effort involving members of several other organizations, we have conducted numerical simulations in support of emergency-response exercises of postulated asteroid ocean impacts. We have addressed the problem from source (asteroid entry) to ocean impact (splash) to wave generation, propagation and interaction with the U.S. shoreline. We simulated three impact sites. The first site is located off the east coast by Maryland's shoreline. The second site is located off of the West coast, the San Francisco bay. The third set of sites are situated in the Gulf of Mexico. Asteroid impacts on the ocean surface aremore » conducted using LLNL's hydrocode GEODYN to create the impact wave source for the shallow water wave propagation code, SWWP, a shallow depth averaged water wave code.« less

Error analysis of 3D-PTV through unsteady interfaces

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Akutina, Yulia; Mydlarski, Laurent; Gaskin, Susan; Eiff, Olivier

2018-03-01

The feasibility of stereoscopic flow measurements through an unsteady optical interface is investigated. Position errors produced by a wavy optical surface are determined analytically, as are the optimal viewing angles of the cameras to minimize such errors. Two methods of measuring the resulting velocity errors are proposed. These methods are applied to 3D particle tracking velocimetry (3D-PTV) data obtained through the free surface of a water flow within a cavity adjacent to a shallow channel. The experiments were performed using two sets of conditions, one having no strong surface perturbations, and the other exhibiting surface gravity waves. In the latter case, the amplitude of the gravity waves was 6% of the water depth, resulting in water surface inclinations of about 0.2°. (The water depth is used herein as a relevant length scale, because the measurements are performed in the entire water column. In a more general case, the relevant scale is the maximum distance from the interface to the measurement plane, H, which here is the same as the water depth.) It was found that the contribution of the waves to the overall measurement error is low. The absolute position errors of the system were moderate (1.2% of H). However, given that the velocity is calculated from the relative displacement of a particle between two frames, the errors in the measured water velocities were reasonably small, because the error in the velocity is the relative position error over the average displacement distance. The relative position error was measured to be 0.04% of H, resulting in small velocity errors of 0.3% of the free-stream velocity (equivalent to 1.1% of the average velocity in the domain). It is concluded that even though the absolute positions to which the velocity vectors are assigned is distorted by the unsteady interface, the magnitude of the velocity vectors themselves remains accurate as long as the waves are slowly varying (have low curvature). The stronger the disturbances on the interface are (high amplitude, short wave length), the smaller is the distance from the interface at which the measurements can be performed.

Silicone-Based Triboelectric Nanogenerator for Water Wave Energy Harvesting.

PubMed

Xiao, Tian Xiao; Jiang, Tao; Zhu, Jian Xiong; Liang, Xi; Xu, Liang; Shao, Jia Jia; Zhang, Chun Lei; Wang, Jie; Wang, Zhong Lin

2018-01-31

Triboelectric nanogenerator (TENG) has been proven to be efficient for harvesting water wave energy, which is one of the most promising renewable energy sources. In this work, a TENG with a silicone rubber/carbon black composite electrode was designed for converting the water wave energy into electricity. The silicone-based electrode with a soft texture provides a better contact with the dielectric film. Furthermore, a spring structure is introduced to transform low-frequency water wave motions into high-frequency vibrations. They together improve the output performance and efficiency of TENG. The output performances of TENGs are further enhanced by optimizing the triboelectric material pair and tribo-surface area. A spring-assisted TENG device with the segmented silicone rubber-based electrode structure was sealed into a waterproof box, which delivers a maximum power density of 2.40 W m -3 , as triggered by the water waves. The present work provides a new strategy for fabricating high-performance TENG devices by coupling flexible electrodes and spring structure for harvesting water wave energy.

Reaction of water with MgO(100) surfaces: Part III. X-ray standing wave studies

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Liu, P.; Kendelewicz, T.; Nelson, E. J.; Brown, G. E.

1998-09-01

Clean MgO(100) surfaces cleaved in vacuum and exposed to water vapor or bulk water were studied using the X-ray standing wave (XSW) technique in back reflection mode and surface sensitive, element specific O KLL and Mg KLL Auger electron yield detection. The effects of surface charging were mitigated, but not entirely eliminated, by using a low-energy electron flood gun. Simulation of the XSW signal showed that the effect of surface charging on the XSW data could be minimized with careful experimental design. We demonstrate that the XSW method can be applied to studies of insulating surfaces, and our results for MgO(100) surfaces exposed to water vapor or bulk water indicate the following: (1) the vacuum-cleaved clean surface undergoes no surface reconstruction or significant relaxation perpendicular to the surface; (2) Mg-OH distances on surfaces exposed to water vapor or bulk water measured perpendicular to the (100) surface are the same as in bulk MgO; and (3) the z-position of the surface Mg atoms does not change within the estimated error [±2% of the (200) spacing] after the surface is fully hydroxylated. Our results for the clean, vacuum-cleaved surface disagree with results from impact collision ion-scattering spectroscopy and surface-extended electron-loss fine structure for MgO(100), which indicate 15 and 17% inward relaxation, respectively, and they support results from low-energy electron diffraction, reflection high-energy electron diffraction, and photoelectron diffraction that show little, if any, relaxation or rumpling of the surface.

Wind-wave coupling in the atmospheric boundary layer over a reservoir: field measurements and verification of the model

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Troitskaya, Yuliya; Papko, Vladislav; Baidakov, Georgy; Vdovin, Maxim; Kandaurov, Alexander; Sergeev, Daniil

2013-04-01

This paper presents the results of field experiments conducted at the Gorky Reservoir to test a quasi-linear model of the atmospheric boundary layer [1]. In the course of the experiment we simultaneously measured profiles of wind speed and surface wave spectra using instruments placed on the Froude buoy, which measures the following parameters: i) the module and the direction of the wind speed using ultrasonic wind sensor WindSonic Gill instruments, located on the 4 - levels from 0.1 x 5 m long; ii) profile of the surface waves with 3-channel string wave-gauge with a base of 5 cm, iii) the temperature of the water and air with a resistive sensor. From the measured profiles of wind speed, we calculated basic parameters of the atmospheric boundary layer: the friction velocity u*, the wind speed at the standard height of 10 m U10 and the drag coefficient CD. Data on CD(U10), obtained at the Gorky Reservoir, were compared with similar data obtained on Lake George in Australia during the Australian Shallow Water Experiment (AUSWEX) conducted in 1997 - 1999 [2,3]. A good agreement was obtained between measured data at two different on the parameters of inland waters: deep Gorky reservoir and shallow Lake George.To elucidate the reasons for this coincidence of the drag coefficients under strongly different conditions an analysis of surface waves was conducted.Measurements have shown that in both water bodies the surface wave spectra have almost the same asymptotics (spatial spectrum - k-3, the frequency spectrum -5), corresponding to the Phillips saturation spectrum.These spectra are typically observed for the steep surface waves, for which the basic dissipation mechanism is wave breaking. The similarity of the short-wave parts of the spectra can be regarded as a probable cause of coincidence of dependency of drag coefficient of the water surface on wind speed. Quantitative verification of this hypothesis was carried out in the framework of quasi-linear model of the wind over the waves [1]. In the calculations the input parameters are measured friction velocity of wind and surface wave spectrum. The appropriate wind speed at the standard height of 10 m and the resistance coefficient surface were calculated. It is shown that at a wind speed of 6 m/s, the model reproduces the measurements. Significant difference of model predictions and measurements at lower values may be due to large measurement error caused by the nonstationarity of weak winds. Authors are grateful to prof. A.Babanin for fruitful discussion and access to data of AUSWEX. This work was supported by RFBR (project 11-05-12047-ofi-m, 13-05-00865-a, 12-05-33070). References 1. Troitskaya, Y. I., D. A. Sergeev, A. A. Kandaurov, G. A.Baidakov, M A. Vdovin, and V. I. Kazakov Laboratory and theoretical modeling of air-sea momentum transfer under severe wind conditions J.Geophys. Res., 117, C00J21, doi:10.1029/2011JC007778 2. Donelan M.A., Babanin A.V., Young I.R., Banner M.L., McCormick C. Wave follower field measurements of the wind input spectral function. Part I: Measurements and calibrations // J. Atmos. Oceanic Technol., 2005. V. 22. P. 799-813. 3. Babanin, A.V., and V.K. Makin: Effects of wind trend and gustiness on the sea drag: Lake George study. Journal of Geophysical Research, 2008, 113, C02015, doi:10.1029/2007JC004233, 18p

Low-grazing angle laser scans of foreshore topography, swash and inner surf-zone wave heights, and mean water level: validation and storm response

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Brodie, K. L.; McNinch, J. E.; Forte, M.; Slocum, R.

2010-12-01

Accurately predicting beach evolution during storms requires models that correctly parameterize wave runup and inner surf-zone processes, the principle drivers of sediment exchange between the beach and surf-zone. Previous studies that aimed at measuring wave runup and swash zone water levels have been restricted to analyzing water-elevation time series of (1) the shoreward-most swash excursion using video imaging or near-bed resistance wires, or (2) the free water surface at a particular location on the foreshore using pressure sensors. These data are often compared with wave forcing parameters in deeper water as well as with beach topography observed at finite intervals throughout the time series to identify links between foreshore evolution, wave spectra, and water level variations. These approaches have lead to numerous parameterizations and empirical equations for wave runup but have difficulty providing adequate data to quantify and understand short-term spatial and temporal variations in foreshore evolution. As a result, modeling shoreline response and changes in sub-aerial beach volume during storms remains a substantial challenge. Here, we demonstrate a novel technique in which a terrestrial laser scanner is used to continuously measure beach and foreshore topography as well as water elevation (and wave height) in the swash and inner surf-zone during storms. The terrestrial laser scanner is mounted 2-m above the dune crest at the Field Research Facility in Duck, NC in line with cross-shore wave gauges located at 2-m, 3-m, 5-m, 6-m, and 8-m of water depth. The laser is automated to collect hourly, two-dimensional, 20-minute time series of data along a narrow swath in addition to an hourly three-dimensional laser scan of beach and dune topography +/- 250m alongshore from the laser. Low grazing-angle laser scans are found to reflect off of the surface of the water, providing spatially (e.g. dx <= 0.1 m) and temporally (e.g. dt = 3Hz) dense elevation data of the foreshore, swash, and inner-surf zone bore heights. Foreshore elevation precision is observed to be < 0.01m. Sea surface elevation data is confined to the breaking region and is more extensive in rough, fully-dissipative surf zones, with the fronts of breaking waves and dissipated bores resolved most clearly. Time series of swash front (runup) data will be compared with simultaneously collected video-imaged swash timestacks, and wave height data of the inner surf zone will be compared with wave data from an aquadopp in 2m of water depth. In addition, analysis of the water level time series data at 10 cm intervals across the profile enables reconstruction of the shoreline setup profile as well as cross-shore variations in 1D wave spectra. Foreshore beach morphology evolution is analyzed using both the 2D cross-shore profile data, as well as the 3D topographic data during multiple storm events. Potential sources of error in the measurements, such as shadowing of the wave troughs or reflectance off of wave spray is identified and quantified.

Molding acoustic, electromagnetic and water waves with a single cloak

PubMed Central

Xu, Jun; Jiang, Xu; Fang, Nicholas; Georget, Elodie; Abdeddaim, Redha; Geffrin, Jean-Michel; Farhat, Mohamed; Sabouroux, Pierre; Enoch, Stefan; Guenneau, Sébastien

2015-01-01

We describe two experiments demonstrating that a cylindrical cloak formerly introduced for linear surface liquid waves works equally well for sound and electromagnetic waves. This structured cloak behaves like an acoustic cloak with an effective anisotropic density and an electromagnetic cloak with an effective anisotropic permittivity, respectively. Measured forward scattering for pressure and magnetic fields are in good agreement and provide first evidence of broadband cloaking. Microwave experiments and 3D electromagnetic wave simulations further confirm reduced forward and backscattering when a rectangular metallic obstacle is surrounded by the structured cloak for cloaking frequencies between 2.6 and 7.0 GHz. This suggests, as supported by 2D finite element simulations, sound waves are cloaked between 3 and 8 KHz and linear surface liquid waves between 5 and 16 Hz. Moreover, microwave experiments show the field is reduced by 10 to 30 dB inside the invisibility region, which suggests the multi-wave cloak could be used as a protection against water, sonic or microwaves. PMID:26057934

Molding acoustic, electromagnetic and water waves with a single cloak.

PubMed

Xu, Jun; Jiang, Xu; Fang, Nicholas; Georget, Elodie; Abdeddaim, Redha; Geffrin, Jean-Michel; Farhat, Mohamed; Sabouroux, Pierre; Enoch, Stefan; Guenneau, Sébastien

2015-06-09

We describe two experiments demonstrating that a cylindrical cloak formerly introduced for linear surface liquid waves works equally well for sound and electromagnetic waves. This structured cloak behaves like an acoustic cloak with an effective anisotropic density and an electromagnetic cloak with an effective anisotropic permittivity, respectively. Measured forward scattering for pressure and magnetic fields are in good agreement and provide first evidence of broadband cloaking. Microwave experiments and 3D electromagnetic wave simulations further confirm reduced forward and backscattering when a rectangular metallic obstacle is surrounded by the structured cloak for cloaking frequencies between 2.6 and 7.0 GHz. This suggests, as supported by 2D finite element simulations, sound waves are cloaked between 3 and 8 KHz and linear surface liquid waves between 5 and 16 Hz. Moreover, microwave experiments show the field is reduced by 10 to 30 dB inside the invisibility region, which suggests the multi-wave cloak could be used as a protection against water, sonic or microwaves.

A note on the effect of wind waves on vertical mixing in Franks Tract, Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, California, USA

USGS Publications Warehouse

Thompson, Janet K.; Jones, Nicole L.; Stephen G. Monismith,

2008-01-01

A one-dimensional numerical model that simulates the effects of whitecapping waves was used to investigate the importance of whitecapping waves to vertical mixing at a 3-meter-deep site in Franks Tract in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta over an 11-day period. Locally-generated waves of mean period approximately 2 s were generated under strong wind conditions; significant wave heights ranged from 0 to 0.3 m. A surface turbulent kinetic energy flux was used to model whitecapping waves during periods when wind speeds > 5 m s-1 (62% of observations). The surface was modeled as a wind stress log-layer for the remaining 38% of the observations. The model results demonstrated that under moderate wind conditions (5–8 m s-1 at 10 m above water level), and hence moderate wave heights, whitecapping waves provided the dominant source of turbulent kinetic energy to only the top 10% of the water column. Under stronger wind (> 8 m s-1), and hence larger wave conditions, whitecapping waves provided the dominant source of turbulent kinetic energy over a larger portion of the water column; however, this region extended to the bottom half of the water column for only 7% of the observation period. The model results indicated that phytoplankton concentrations close to the bed were unlikely to be affected by the whitecapping of waves, and that the formation of concentration boundary layers due to benthic grazing was unlikely to be disrupted by whitecapping waves. Furthermore, vertical mixing of suspended sediment was unlikely to be affected by whitecapping waves under the conditions experienced during the 11-day experiment. Instead, the bed stress provided by tidal currents was the dominant source of turbulent kinetic energy over the bottom half of the water column for the majority of the 11-day period.

Laboratory modeling of air-sea interaction under severe wind conditions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Troitskaya, Yuliya; Vasiliy, Kazakov; Nicolay, Bogatov; Olga, Ermakova; Mikhail, Salin; Daniil, Sergeev; Maxim, Vdovin

2010-05-01

Wind-wave interaction at extreme wind speed is of special interest now in connection with the problem of explanation of the sea surface drag saturation at the wind speed exceeding 30 m/s. The idea on saturation (and even reduction) of the coefficient of aerodynamic resistance of the sea surface at hurricane wind speed was first suggested by Emanuel (1995) on the basis of theoretical analysis of sensitivity of maximum wind speed in a hurricane to the ratio of the enthalpy and momentum exchange coefficients. Both field (Powell, Vickery, Reinhold, 2003, French et al, 2007, Black, et al, 2007) and laboratory (Donelan et al, 2004) experiments confirmed that at hurricane wind speed the sea surface drag coefficient is significantly reduced in comparison with the parameterization obtained at moderate to strong wind conditions. Two groups of possible theoretical mechanisms for explanation of the effect of the sea surface drag reduction can be specified. In the first group of models developed by Kudryavtsev & Makin (2007) and Kukulka,Hara Belcher (2007), the sea surface drag reduction is explained by peculiarities of the air flow over breaking waves. Another approach more appropriate for the conditions of developed sea exploits the effect of sea drops and sprays on the wind-wave momentum exchange (Andreas, 2004; Makin, 2005; Kudryavtsev, 2006). The main objective of this work is investigation of factors determining momentum exchange under high wind speeds basing on the laboratory experiment in a well controlled environment. The experiments were carried out in the Thermo-Stratified WInd-WAve Tank (TSWIWAT) of the Institute of Applied Physics. The parameters of the facility are as follows: airflow 0 - 25 m/s (equivalent 10-m neutral wind speed U10 up to 60 m/s), dimensions 10m x 0.4m x 0.7 m, temperature stratification of the water layer. Simultaneous measurements of the airflow velocity profiles and wind waves were carried out in the wide range of wind velocities. Airflow velocity profile was measured by WindSonic ultrasonic wind sensor. The water elevation was measured by the three-channel wave-gauge. Top and side views of the water surface were fixed by CCD-camera. Wind friction velocity and surface drag coefficients were retrieved from the measurements by the profile method. Obtained values are in good agreement with the data of measurements by Donelan et al (2004). The directional frequency-wave-number spectra of surface waves were retrieved by the wavelet directional method (Donelan et al, 1996). The obtained dependencies of parameters of the wind waves indicate existing of two regimes of the waves with the critical wind speed Ucr about 30 m/s. For U10Ucr the dependencies of peak wave period, peak wavelength, significant wave height on the wind speed tend to saturation, in the same time the peak wave slope has the maximum at approximately Ucr and then decreases with the tendency to saturation. The surface drag also tends to saturation for U10>Ucr similarly to (Donelan et al, 2004). Video filming indicates onset of wave breaking with white-capping and spray generation at wind speeds approximately equal to Ucr. We compared the obtained experimental dependencies with the predictions of the quasi-linear model of the turbulent boundary layer over the waved water surface (Reutov&Troitskaya, 1995). Comparing shows that theoretical predictions give low estimates for the measured drag coefficient and wave fields. Taking into account momentum flux associated with the spray generation yields theoretical estimations in good agreement with the experimental data. Basing on the experimental data a possible physical mechanism of the drag is suggested. Tearing of the wave crests at severe wind conditions leads to the effective smoothing (decreasing wave slopes) of the water surface, which in turn reduces the aerodynamic roughness of the water surface. Quantitative agreement of the experimental data and theoretical estimations od the surface drag occurs if spray and drop momentum flux is taken into account. This study was supported by Russian Foundation for basic research (project code 07-05-00565, 10-05-00339). References Andreas E. L. Spray stress revised, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 2004, v.34, p.1429--1440. Black P.G., et al, Bulletin of the American Meteorological Society, 2007, v. 88, №3, p.357-374. Donelan M.A., et al, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 26, 1901-1914, 1996 Donelan M.A., et al, Geophys. Res. Lett., 2004, v.31, L18306. Emanuel, K.A. , J. Atmos. Sci/, 1995, v.52, p.3969-3976. Fairall C.W., et al, J. Climate, 2003, v.16, № 4, p.571-591. French, J. R., et al, J. Atmos. Sci., 2007, v.64, p.1089-1102. Garratt J.R., Mon. Weather Rev., 1977, v.105, p.915-929. Kudryavtsev V. N., J. Geophys. Res., 2006, v.111, C07020. Kudryavtsev V., Makin V. , Boundary-Layer Meteorol., 2007, v.125, p. 289--303. Kukulka, T., T. Hara, and S. E. Belcher., J. Phys. Oceanogr., 37, 1811-1828, 2007 Makin V. K. ,Boundary Layer Meteorol., 2005, v. 115, №1, p.169-176. Powell, M.D., Vickery P.J., Reinhold T.A., Nature, 2003, v.422, p.279-283. Reutov V.P., Troitskaya Yu.I. ,. Izvestiya RAN, FAO, 31, 825-834, 1995

Investigation of statistical parameters of the evolving wind wave field using a laser slope gauge

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zavadsky, A.; Shemer, L.

2017-05-01

Statistical parameters of water waves generated by wind in a small scale facility are studied using extensively a Laser Slope Gauge (LSG), in addition to conventional measuring instruments such as a wave gauge and Pitot tube. The LSG enables direct measurements of two components of the instantaneous surface slope. Long sampling duration in a relatively small experimental facility allowed accumulating records of the measured parameters containing a large number of waves. Data were accumulated for a range of wind velocities at multiple fetches. Frequency spectra of the surface elevation and of the instantaneous local slope variation measured under identical conditions are compared. Higher moments of the surface slope are presented. Information on the waves' asymmetry is retrieved from the computed skewness of the surface slope components.

Measurement of Near-Surface Salinity, Temperature and Directional Wave Spectra using a Novel Wave-Following, Lagrangian Surface Contact Buoy

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Boyle, J. P.

2016-02-01

Results from a surface contact drifter buoy which measures near-surface conductivity ( 10 cm depth), sea state characteristics and near-surface water temperature ( 2 cm depth) are described. This light (< 750 gram), wave-following discus buoy platform has a hull diameter of 25 cm and a thickness of approximately 3 cm. The buoy is designed to allow for capsize events, but remains top up because it is ballasted for self-righting. It has a small above-surface profile and low windage, resulting in near-Lagrangian drift characteristics. It is autonomous, with low power requirements and solar panel battery recharging. Onboard sensors include an inductive toroidal conductivity probe for salinity measurement, a nine-degrees-of-freedom motion package for derivation of directional wave spectra and a thermocouple for water temperature measurement. Data retrieval for expendable, ocean-going operation uses an onboard Argos transmitter. Scientific results as well as data processing algorithms are presented from laboratory and field experiments which support qualification of buoy platform measurements. These include sensor calibration experiments, longer-term dock-side biofouling experiments during 2013-2014 and a series of short-duration ocean deployments in the Gulf Stream in 2014. In addition, a treatment method will be described which appears to minimize the effects of biofouling on the inductive conductivity probe when in coastal surface waters. Due to its low cost and ease of deployment, scores, perhaps hundreds of these novel instruments could be deployed from ships or aircraft during process studies or to provide surface validation for satellite-based measurements, particularly in high precipitation regions.

Observations of Surfzone Albedo

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Sinnett, G.; Feddersen, F.

2014-12-01

The surfzone environment (where waves break) contains several unique and previously unconsidered processes that affect the heat budget. Entering short-wave radiation is a dominant term in both shelf and surfzone heat budgets. In contrast to the shelf, however, depth limited wave breaking in the surfzone generates spray, whitewater and suspended sediments, elevating the surface albedo (ratio of reflected to incident short-wave radiation). Elevated albedo reduces the level of solar short-wave radiation entering the water, potentially resulting in less heating. Additionally, surfzone water quality is often impacted by fecal bacteria contamination. As bacteria mortality is related to short-wave solar radiation, elevated surfzone albedo could reduce pathogen mortality, impacting human health. Albedo in the open ocean has been frequently studied and parameterizations often consider solar zenith angle, wind speed and ocean chlorophyll concentration, producing albedo values typically near 0.06. However, surfzone albedo observations have been extremely sparse, yet show depth limited wave breaking may increase the albedo by nearly a factor of 10 up to 0.5. Here, we present findings from a field study at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography pier to observe the affect of waves on surfzone albedo. Concurrent measurements were taken with a four-way radiometer (to measure both downwelling and upwelling short-wave and long wave radiation) mounted above the surfzone. A co-located GoPro camera was used to relate visual aspects of the surfzone to measured reflectance, and wave height and period were observed with a bottom mounted pressure sensor in 5 m water depth just outside the surfzone. Wind speed and direction were observed on the pier 10 m above the water surface. Here, we will examine the surfzone albedo dependence on surfzone parameters, such as wave height.

Field testing model predictions of foam coverage and bubble content in the surf zone

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Shi, F.; Kirby, J. T.; Ma, G.; Holman, R. A.; Chickadel, C. C.

2012-12-01

Field-scale modeling of surfzone bubbles and foam coverage is challenging in terms of the computational intensity of multi-phase bubble models based on Navier-Stokes/VOF formulation. In this study, we developed the NHWAVE-bubble package, which includes a 3D non-hydrostatic wave model NHWAVE (Ma et al., 2012), a multi-phase bubble model and a foam model. NHWAVE uses a surface and bottom following sigma coordinate system, making it more applicable to 3D modeling of nearshore waves and circulation in a large-scale field domain. It has been extended to include a multiphase description of polydisperse bubble populations following the approach applied in a 3D VOF model by Ma et al. (2012). A model of a foam layer on the water surface is specified in the model package using a shallow water formulation based on a balance of drag forces due to wind and water column motion. Foam mass conservation includes source and sink terms representing outgassing of the water column, direct foam generation due to surface agitation, and erosion due to bubble bursting. The model is applied in a field scale domain at FRF, Duck, NC where optical data in either visible band (ARGUS) or infrared band were collected during 2010 Surf Zone Optics experiments. The decay of image brightness or intensity following the passage of wave crests is presumably tied to both decay of bubble populations and foam coverage after passage of a broken wave crest. Infrared imagery is likely to provide more detailed information which could separate active breaking from passive foam decay on the surface. Model results will be compared with the measurements with an attention to distinguishing between active generation and passive decay of the foam signature on the water surface.

Doppler spectra of airborne sound backscattered by the free surface of a shallow turbulent water flow.

PubMed

Dolcetti, Giulio; Krynkin, Anton; Horoshenkov, Kirill V

2017-12-01

Measurements of the Doppler spectra of airborne ultrasound backscattered by the rough dynamic surface of a shallow turbulent flow are presented in this paper. The interpretation of the observed acoustic signal behavior is provided by means of a Monte Carlo simulation based on the Kirchhoff approximation and on a linear random-phase model of the water surface elevation. Results suggest that the main scattering mechanism is from capillary waves with small amplitude. Waves that travel at the same velocity of the flow, as well as dispersive waves that travel at a range of velocities, are detected, studied, and used in the acoustic Doppler analysis. The dispersive surface waves are not observed when the flow velocity is slow compared to their characteristic velocity. Relatively wide peaks in the experimental spectra also suggest the existence of nonlinear modulations of the short capillary waves, or their propagation in a wide range of directions. The variability of the Doppler spectra with the conditions of the flow can affect the accuracy of the flow velocity estimations based on backscattering Doppler. A set of different methods to estimate this velocity accurately and remotely at different ranges of flow conditions is suggested.

Structure of the airflow above surface waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Buckley, Marc; Veron, Fabrice

2016-04-01

Weather, climate and upper ocean patterns are controlled by the exchanges of momentum, heat, mass, and energy across the ocean surface. These fluxes are, in turn, influenced by the small-scale physics at the wavy air-sea interface. We present laboratory measurements of the fine-scale airflow structure above waves, achieved in over 15 different wind-wave conditions, with wave ages Cp/u* ranging from 1.4 to 66.7 (where Cp is the peak phase speed of the waves, and u* the air friction velocity). The experiments were performed in the large (42-m long) wind-wave-current tank at University of Delaware's Air-Sea Interaction laboratory (USA). A combined Particle Image Velocimetry and Laser Induced Fluorescence system was specifically developed for this study, and provided two-dimensional airflow velocity measurement as low as 100 um above the air-water interface. Starting at very low wind speeds (U10~2m/s), we directly observe coherent turbulent structures within the buffer and logarithmic layers of the airflow above the air-water interface, whereby low horizontal velocity air is ejected away from the surface, and higher velocity fluid is swept downward. Wave phase coherent quadrant analysis shows that such turbulent momentum flux events are wave-phase dependent. Airflow separation events are directly observed over young wind waves (Cp/u*<3.7) and counted using measured vorticity and surface viscous stress criteria. Detached high spanwise vorticity layers cause intense wave-coherent turbulence downwind of wave crests, as shown by wave-phase averaging of turbulent momentum fluxes. Mean wave-coherent airflow motions and fluxes also show strong phase-locked patterns, including a sheltering effect, upwind of wave crests over old mechanically generated swells (Cp/u*=31.7), and downwind of crests over young wind waves (Cp/u*=3.7). Over slightly older wind waves (Cp/u* = 6.5), the measured wave-induced airflow perturbations are qualitatively consistent with linear critical layer theory.

Development of a GNSS Buoy for Monitoring Water Surface Elevations in Estuaries and Coastal Areas.

PubMed

Lin, Yen-Pin; Huang, Ching-Jer; Chen, Sheng-Hsueh; Doong, Dong-Jiing; Kao, Chia Chuen

2017-01-18

In this work, a Global Navigation Satellite System (GNSS) buoy that utilizes a Virtual Base Station (VBS) combined with the Real-Time Kinematic (RTK) positioning technology was developed to monitor water surface elevations in estuaries and coastal areas. The GNSS buoy includes a buoy hull, a RTK GNSS receiver, data-transmission devices, a data logger, and General Purpose Radio Service (GPRS) modems for transmitting data to the desired land locations. Laboratory and field tests were conducted to test the capability of the buoy and verify the accuracy of the monitored water surface elevations. For the field tests, the GNSS buoy was deployed in the waters of Suao (northeastern part of Taiwan). Tide data obtained from the GNSS buoy were consistent with those obtained from the neighboring tide station. Significant wave heights, zero-crossing periods, and peak wave directions obtained from the GNSS buoy were generally consistent with those obtained from an accelerometer-tilt-compass (ATC) sensor. The field tests demonstrate that the developed GNSS buoy can be used to obtain accurate real-time tide and wave data in estuaries and coastal areas.

Development of a GNSS Buoy for Monitoring Water Surface Elevations in Estuaries and Coastal Areas

PubMed Central

Lin, Yen-Pin; Huang, Ching-Jer; Chen, Sheng-Hsueh; Doong, Dong-Jiing; Kao, Chia Chuen

2017-01-01

In this work, a Global Navigation Satellite System (GNSS) buoy that utilizes a Virtual Base Station (VBS) combined with the Real-Time Kinematic (RTK) positioning technology was developed to monitor water surface elevations in estuaries and coastal areas. The GNSS buoy includes a buoy hull, a RTK GNSS receiver, data-transmission devices, a data logger, and General Purpose Radio Service (GPRS) modems for transmitting data to the desired land locations. Laboratory and field tests were conducted to test the capability of the buoy and verify the accuracy of the monitored water surface elevations. For the field tests, the GNSS buoy was deployed in the waters of Suao (northeastern part of Taiwan). Tide data obtained from the GNSS buoy were consistent with those obtained from the neighboring tide station. Significant wave heights, zero-crossing periods, and peak wave directions obtained from the GNSS buoy were generally consistent with those obtained from an accelerometer-tilt-compass (ATC) sensor. The field tests demonstrate that the developed GNSS buoy can be used to obtain accurate real-time tide and wave data in estuaries and coastal areas. PMID:28106763

Reminiscences on the study of wind waves

PubMed Central

MITSUYASU, Hisashi

2015-01-01

The wind blowing over sea surface generates tiny wind waves. They develop with time and space absorbing wind energy, and become huge wind waves usually referred to ocean surface waves. The wind waves cause not only serious sea disasters but also take important roles in the local and global climate changes by affecting the fluxes of momentum, heat and gases (e.g. CO2) through the air-sea boundary. The present paper reviews the selected studies on wind waves conducted by our group in the Research Institute for Applied Mechanics (RIAM), Kyushu University. The themes discussed are interactions between water waves and winds, the energy spectrum of wind waves, nonlinear properties of wind waves, and the effects of surfactant on some air-sea interaction phenomena. PMID:25864467

Reminiscences on the study of wind waves.

PubMed

Mitsuyasu, Hisashi

2015-01-01

The wind blowing over sea surface generates tiny wind waves. They develop with time and space absorbing wind energy, and become huge wind waves usually referred to ocean surface waves. The wind waves cause not only serious sea disasters but also take important roles in the local and global climate changes by affecting the fluxes of momentum, heat and gases (e.g. CO2) through the air-sea boundary. The present paper reviews the selected studies on wind waves conducted by our group in the Research Institute for Applied Mechanics (RIAM), Kyushu University. The themes discussed are interactions between water waves and winds, the energy spectrum of wind waves, nonlinear properties of wind waves, and the effects of surfactant on some air-sea interaction phenomena.

A laboratory measurement of drop impact on a water surface in the presence of wind

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Liu, Xinan; Liu, Ren

2014-11-01

The impact of single water drops on a water surface was studied experimentally in a wind tunnel. Water drops were generated from a needle oriented vertically from the top of the wind tunnel test section. After leaving the needle, the drops move downward due to gravity and downstream due to the effect of the wind, eventually impinging obliquely on the surface of a pool of water on the bottom of the test section. The vertical velocities of drops were about 2.0 m/s and the wind speeds varied from 0 to 6.4 m/s. The drop impacts were recorded simultaneously from the side and above with two high-speed movie cameras with frame rates of 1,000 Hz. Our measurements show that both wind speed and initial drop size dramatically affect the drop impacts and subsequent generation of crowns, secondary drops, stalks and ring waves. In the presence of wind, an asymmetric crown forms after the drop hits the water surface and secondary drops are generated from the fragmentation of the leeward side of the crown rim. This is followed by a stalk formation and ring waves at the location of the water drop impact. It is found that the stalks tilt to leeward and the ring waves in the windward direction are stronger than that in those in the leeward. This work is supported by National Science Foundation, Division of Ocean Sciences.

Three-Dimensional Simulations of Oblique Asteroid Impacts into Water

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gisler, G. R.; Ferguson, J. M.; Heberling, T.; Plesko, C. S.; Weaver, R.

2016-12-01

Waves generated by impacts into oceans may represent the most significant danger from near-earth asteroids and comets. For impacts near populated shores, the crown splash and subsequent waves, accompanied by sediment lofting and high winds, could be more damaging than storm surges from the strongest hurricanes. For asteroids less than 500 m in diameter that impact into deep water far from shores, the waves produced will be detectable over large distances, but probably not significantly dangerous. We present new three-dimensional simulations of oblique impacts into deep water, with trajectory angles ranging from 20 degrees to 60 degrees (where 90 degrees is vertical). These simulations are performed with the Los Alamos Rage hydrocode, and include atmospheric effects including ablation and airbursts. These oblique impact simulations are specifically performed in order to help determine whether there are additional dangers from the obliquity of impact not covered by previous two-dimensional studies. Water surface elevation profiles, surface pressures, and depth-averaged mass fluxes within the water are prepared for use in propagation studies.

Effect exerted by a radio wave electromagnetic field on the rheological properties of water and portland-cement systems

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Azharonok, V. V.; Belous, N. Kh.; Rodtsevich, S. P.; Koshevar, V. D.; Shkadretsova, V. G.; Goncharik, S. V.; Chubrik, N. I.; Orlovich, A. I.

2013-09-01

We have studied the effect of the regimes of high-frequency (radio wave) electromagnetic treatment of gauging water on the process of structurization and on the technological characteristics of portland-cement systems. It has been established that the radio wave electromagnetic activation of water leads to a reduction in its surface tension, dynamic viscosity, and shear stress, as well as intensifies the formation of coagulation structures in a portlandcement slurry and aids in increasing the mobility of cement-sand mixtures.

New conformal mapping for adaptive resolving of the complex singularities of Stokes wave

PubMed Central

Dyachenko, Sergey A.; A. Silantyev, Denis

2017-01-01

A new highly efficient method is developed for computation of travelling periodic waves (Stokes waves) on the free surface of deep water. A convergence of numerical approximation is determined by the complex singularities above the free surface for the analytical continuation of the travelling wave into the complex plane. An auxiliary conformal mapping is introduced which moves singularities away from the free surface thus dramatically speeding up numerical convergence by adapting the numerical grid for resolving singularities while being consistent with the fluid dynamics. The efficiency of that conformal mapping is demonstrated for the Stokes wave approaching the limiting Stokes wave (the wave of the greatest height) which significantly expands the family of numerically accessible solutions. It allows us to provide a detailed study of the oscillatory approach of these solutions to the limiting wave. Generalizations of the conformal mapping to resolve multiple singularities are also introduced. PMID:28690418

New conformal mapping for adaptive resolving of the complex singularities of Stokes wave.

PubMed

Lushnikov, Pavel M; Dyachenko, Sergey A; A Silantyev, Denis

2017-06-01

A new highly efficient method is developed for computation of travelling periodic waves (Stokes waves) on the free surface of deep water. A convergence of numerical approximation is determined by the complex singularities above the free surface for the analytical continuation of the travelling wave into the complex plane. An auxiliary conformal mapping is introduced which moves singularities away from the free surface thus dramatically speeding up numerical convergence by adapting the numerical grid for resolving singularities while being consistent with the fluid dynamics. The efficiency of that conformal mapping is demonstrated for the Stokes wave approaching the limiting Stokes wave (the wave of the greatest height) which significantly expands the family of numerically accessible solutions. It allows us to provide a detailed study of the oscillatory approach of these solutions to the limiting wave. Generalizations of the conformal mapping to resolve multiple singularities are also introduced.

Verification and transfer of thermal pollution model. Volume 4: User's manual for three-dimensional rigid-lid model

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Lee, S. S.; Nwadike, E. V.; Sinha, S. E.

1982-01-01

The theory of a three dimensional (3-D) mathematical thermal discharge model and a related one dimensional (1-D) model are described. Model verification at two sites, a separate user's manual for each model are included. The 3-D model has two forms: free surface and rigid lid. The former allows a free air/water interface and is suited for significant surface wave heights compared to mean water depth, estuaries and coastal regions. The latter is suited for small surface wave heights compared to depth because surface elevation was removed as a parameter. These models allow computation of time dependent velocity and temperature fields for given initial conditions and time-varying boundary conditions. The free surface model also provides surface height variations with time.

Particle motions beneath irrotational water waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bakhoday-Paskyabi, Mostafa

2015-08-01

Neutral and buoyant particle motions in an irrotational flow are investigated under the passage of linear, nonlinear gravity, and weakly nonlinear solitary waves at a constant water depth. The developed numerical models for the particle trajectories in a non-turbulent flow incorporate particle momentum, size, and mass (i.e., inertial particles) under the influence of various surface waves such as Korteweg-de Vries waves which admit a three parameter family of periodic cnoidal wave solutions. We then formulate expressions of mass-transport velocities for the neutral and buoyant particles. A series of test cases suggests that the inertial particles possess a combined horizontal and vertical drifts from the locations of their release, with a fall velocity as a function of particle material properties, ambient flow, and wave parameters. The estimated solutions exhibit good agreement with previously explained particle behavior beneath progressive surface gravity waves. We further investigate the response of a neutrally buoyant water parcel trajectories in a rotating fluid when subjected to a series of wind and wave events. The results confirm the importance of the wave-induced Coriolis-Stokes force effect in both amplifying (destroying) the pre-existing inertial oscillations and in modulating the direction of the flow particles. Although this work has mainly focused on wave-current-particle interaction in the absence of turbulence stochastic forcing effects, the exercise of the suggested numerical models provides additional insights into the mechanisms of wave effects on the passive trajectories for both living and nonliving particles such as swimming trajectories of plankton in non-turbulent flows.

Internal waves, Andaman Sea

NASA Image and Video Library

1994-09-30

STS068-236-044 (30 September-11 October 1994) --- These internal waves in the Andaman Sea, west of Burma, were photographed from 115 nautical miles above Earth by the crew of the Space Shuttle Endeavour during the Space Radar Laboratory 2 (SRL-2) mission. The internal waves smooth out some of the capillary waves at the surface in bands and travel along the density discontinuity at the bottom of the mixed layer depth. There is little evidence of the internal waves at the surface. They are visible in the Space Shuttle photography because of sunglint, which reflects off the water.

Numerical simulation of solitary waves on deep water with constant vorticity

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Dosaev, A. S.; Shishina, M. I.; Troitskaya, Yu I.

2018-01-01

Characteristics of solitary deep water waves on a flow with constant vorticity are investigated by numerical simulation within the framework of fully nonlinear equations of motion (Euler equations) using the method of surface-tracking conformal coordinates. To ensure that solutions observed are stable, soliton formation as a result of disintegration of an initial pulse-like disturbance is modeled. Evidence is obtained that solitary waves with height above a certain threshold are unstable.

History of shock wave lithotripsy

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Delius, Michael

2000-07-01

The first reports on the fragmentation of human calculi with ultrasound appeared in the fifties. Initial positive results with an extracorporeal approach with continuous wave ultrasound could, however, not be reproduced. A more promising result was found by generating the acoustic energy either in pulsed or continuous form directly at the stone surface. The method was applied clinically with success. Extracorporeal shock-wave generators unite the principle of using single ultrasonic pulses with the principle of generating the acoustic energy outside the body and focusing it through the skin and body wall onto the stone. Häusler and Kiefer reported the first successful contact-free kidney stone destruction by shock waves. They had put the stone in a water filled cylinder and generated a shock wave with a high speed water drop which was fired onto the water surface. To apply the new principle in medicine, both Häusler and Hoff's group at Dornier company constructed different shock wave generators for the stone destruction; the former used a torus-shaped reflector around an explosion wire, the latter the electrode-ellipsoid system. The former required open surgery to access the kidney stone, the latter did not. It was introduced into clinical practice after a series of experiments in Munich.

Modeling of wave-coherent pressures in the turbulent boundary layer above water waves

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Papadimitrakis, Yiannis ALEX.

1988-01-01

The behavior of air pressure fluctuations induced by progressive water waves generated mechanically in a laboratory tank was simulated by solving a modified Orr-Sommerfeld equation in a transformed Eulerian wave-following frame of reference. Solution is obtained by modeling the mean and wave-coherent turbulent Reynolds stresses, the behavior of which in the turbulent boundary layer above the waves was simulated using a turbulent kinetic energy-dissipation model, properly modified to account for free-surface proximity and favorable pressure gradient effects. The distribution of both the wave-coherent turbulent Reynolds stress and pressure amplitudes and their corresponding phase lags was found to agree reasonably well with available laboratory data.

Directional ocean wave measurements in a coastal setting using a focused array imaging radar

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Frasier, S.J.; Liu, Y.; Moller, D.

1995-03-01

A unique focused array imaging Doppler radar was used to measure directional spectra of ocean surface waves in a nearshore experiment performed on the North Carolina Outer Banks. Radar images of the ocean surface`s Doppler velocity were used to generate two dimensional spectra of the radial component of the ocean surface velocity field. These are compared to simultaneous in-situ measurements made by a nearby array of submerged pressure sensors. Analysis of the resulting two-dimensional spectra include comparisons of dominant wave lengths, wave directions, and wave energy accounting for relative differences in water depth at the measurement locations. Limited estimates ofmore » the two-dimensional surface displacement spectrum are derived from the radar data. The radar measurements are analogous to those of interferometric synthetic aperture radars (INSAR), and the equivalent INSAR parameters are shown. The agreement between the remote and in-situ measurements suggests that an imaging Doppler radar is effective for these wave measurements at near grazing incidence angles.« less

Range-dependence of acoustic channel with traveling sinusoidal surface wave.

PubMed

Choo, Youngmin; Seong, Woojae; Lee, Keunhwa

2014-04-01

Range-dependence of time-varying acoustic channels caused by a traveling surface wave is investigated through water tank experiments and acoustic propagation analysis schemes. As the surface wave travels, surface reflected signals fluctuate and the fluctuation varies with source-receiver horizontal range. Amplitude fluctuations of surface reflected signals increase with increasing horizontal range whereas the opposite occurs in delay fluctuations. The scattered pressure field at a fixed time shows strong dependence on the receiver position because of caustics and shadow zones formed by the surface. The Doppler shifts of surface reflected signals also depend on the horizontal range. Comparison between measurement data and model results indicates the Doppler shift relies on the delay fluctuation under current experimental conditions.

The role of internal waves in larval fish interactions with potential predators and prey

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Greer, Adam T.; Cowen, Robert K.; Guigand, Cedric M.; Hare, Jonathan A.; Tang, Dorothy

2014-09-01

Tidally driven internal wave packets in coastal environments have the potential to influence patchiness of larval fishes, prey, and gelatinous predators. We used the In Situ Ichthyoplankton Imaging System (ISIIS) to synoptically sample larval fishes, copepods, and planktonic predators (ctenophores, hydromedusae, chaetognaths, and polychaetes) across these predictable features in the summer near Stellwagen Bank, Massachusetts, USA. Full water column profiles and fixed depth transects (∼10 m depth) were used to quantify vertical and horizontal components of the fish and invertebrate distributions during stable and vertically mixed conditions associated with tidally generated internal waves. Larval fishes, consisting mostly of Urophycis spp., Merluccius bilinearis, and Labridae, were concentrated near the surface, with larger sizes generally occupying greater depths. During stable water column conditions, copepods formed a near surface thin layer several meters above the chlorophyll-a maximum that was absent when internal waves were propagating. In contrast, ctenophores and other predators were much more abundant at depth, but concentrations near 10 m increased immediately after the internal hydraulic jump mixed the water column. During the propagation of internal waves, the fine-scale abundance of larval fishes was more correlated with the abundance of gelatinous predators and less correlated with copepods compared to the stable conditions. Vertical oscillations caused by the internal hydraulic jump can disperse patches of zooplankton and force surface dwelling larval fishes into deeper water where probability of predator contact is increased, creating conditions potentially less favorable for larval fish growth and survival on short time scales.

El Ni?o Pumping Up, Warm Kelvin Wave Surges Toward South America

NASA Image and Video Library

2009-11-12

ElNi?o is experiencing a late-fall resurgence. Sea-level height data from the NASA/European Ocean Surface Topography Mission/Jason-2 oceanography satellite show the equatorial Pacific has triggered a wave of warm water, known as a Kelvin wave.

El Niño Surges; Warm Kelvin Wave Headed for South America

NASA Image and Video Library

2009-12-17

The most recent sea-level height data from the NASA/European Ocean Surface Topography Mission/Jason-2 oceanography satellite show the continued eastward progression of a strong wave of warm water, known as a Kelvin wave, now approaching South America.

Coherent Structures and Evolution of Vorticity in Short-Crested Breaking Surface Waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kirby, James; Derakhti, Morteza

2017-11-01

We employ a multi-phase LES/VOF code to study turbulence and coherent structures generated during breaking of short-crested surface water waves. We examine the evolution of coherent vortex structures evolving at the scale of the width of the breaking event, and their long-time interaction with smaller vortex loops formed by the local instability of the breaking crest. Long-time results are often characterized by the detachment of the larger scale vortex loop from the surface and formation of a closed vortex ring. The evolution of circulation for the vortical flow field is examined. The initial concentration of forcing close to the free surface leads to spatial distributions of both span-wise and vertical vorticity distributions which are concentrated close to the surface. This result, which persists into shallow water, is at odds with the basic simplicity of the Peregrine mechanism, suggesting that even shallow flows such as the surf zone should be regarded as being forced (in dissipative situations) by a wave-induced surface stress rather than a uniform-over-depth body force. The localized forcing leads to the development of a complex pattern of stream-wise vorticity, comparable in strength to the vertical and span-wise components, and also persist into shallow water. NSF OCE-1435147.

Spontaneous Wave Generation from Submesoscale Fronts and Filaments

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Shakespeare, C. J.; Hogg, A.

2016-02-01

Submesoscale features such as eddies, fronts, jets and filaments can be significant sources of spontaneous wave generation at the ocean surface. Unlike near-inertial waves forced by winds, these spontaneous waves are typically of higher frequency and can propagate through the thermocline, whereupon they break and drive mixing in the ocean interior. Here we investigate the spontaneous generation, propagation and subsequent breaking of these waves using a combination of theory and submesoscale resolving numerical models. The mechanism of generation is nearly identical to that of lee waves where flow is deflected over a rigid obstacle on the sea floor. Here, very sharp fronts and filaments of order 100m width moving in the submesoscale surface flow generate "surface lee waves" by presenting an obstacle to the surrounding stratified fluid. Using our numerical model we quantify the net downward wave energy flux from the surface, and where it is dissipated in the water column. Our results suggest an alternative to the classical paradigm where the energy associated with mixing in the ocean interior is sourced from bottom-generated lee waves.

Energy Harvesting from Surface River/Ocean Waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Cai, Wenzheng

The renewable energy is an important subject especially today as the world is facing the results of the pollution and depletion of the conventional energy resources. Around 70% of the Earth's surface is covered by water where the energy of the waves/tides could be used as alternative source of energy that is sustainable and environmental friendly. Most of the research efforts are focused on the development of the large-scale technologies that can operate in the open Ocean. The potential of the low-frequency and small-amplitude wave condition in shallow rivers and lakes where most of the world wave energy exists has not been explored yet. The objective of the current study is to design and develop new concepts for wave energy extraction, which depend on oscillatory wave motion and have the ability to convert the small and medium waves. The proposed devices are self-generating without any external sources, which makes them lightweight and naturally floating on the surface of the water. Feasibility studies of both designs were performed using numerical modeling and field experiments. The final prototypes achieved power output of 5.0+/-0.6mW and 0.25+/-0.01mW, respectively. Array systems implementing both concepts were also introduced to improve the performance of the devices.

Linear shoaling of free-surface waves in multi-layer non-hydrostatic models

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bai, Yefei; Cheung, Kwok Fai

2018-01-01

The capability to describe shoaling over sloping bottom is fundamental to modeling of coastal wave transformation. The linear shoaling gradient provides a metric to measure this property in non-hydrostatic models with layer-integrated formulations. The governing equations in Boussinesq form facilitate derivation of the linear shoaling gradient, which is in the form of a [ 2 P + 2 , 2 P ] expansion of the water depth parameter kd with P equal to 1 for a one-layer model and (4 N - 4) for an N-layer model. The expansion reproduces the analytical solution from Airy wave theory at the shallow water limit and maintains a reasonable approximation up to kd = 1.2 and 2 for the one and two-layer models. Additional layers provide rapid and monotonic convergence of the shoaling gradient into deep water. Numerical experiments of wave propagation over a plane slope illustrate manifestation of the shoaling errors through the transformation processes from deep to shallow water. Even though outside the zone of active wave transformation, shoaling errors from deep to intermediate water are cumulative to produce appreciable impact to the wave amplitude in shallow water.

Investigation of Seepage Meter Measurements in Steady Flow and Wave Conditions.

PubMed

Russoniello, Christopher J; Michael, Holly A

2015-01-01

Water exchange between surface water and groundwater can modulate or generate ecologically important fluxes of solutes across the sediment-water interface. Seepage meters can directly measure fluid flux, but mechanical resistance and surface water dynamics may lead to inaccurate measurements. Tank experiments were conducted to determine effects of mechanical resistance on measurement efficiency and occurrence of directional asymmetry that could lead to erroneous net flux measurements. Seepage meter efficiency was high (average of 93%) and consistent for inflow and outflow under steady flow conditions. Wave effects on seepage meter measurements were investigated in a wave flume. Seepage meter net flux measurements averaged 0.08 cm/h-greater than the expected net-zero flux, but significantly less than theoretical wave-driven unidirectional discharge or recharge. Calculations of unidirectional flux from pressure measurements (Darcy flux) and theory matched well for a ratio of wave length to water depth less than 5, but not when this ratio was greater. Both were higher than seepage meter measurements of unidirectional flux made with one-way valves. Discharge averaged 23% greater than recharge in both seepage meter measurements and Darcy calculations of unidirectional flux. Removal of the collection bag reduced this net discharge. The presence of a seepage meter reduced the amplitude of pressure signals at the bed and resulted in a nearly uniform pressure distribution beneath the seepage meter. These results show that seepage meters may provide accurate measurements of both discharge and recharge under steady flow conditions and illustrate the potential measurement errors associated with dynamic wave environments. © 2014, National Ground Water Association.

Surface manifestations of internal waves investigated by a subsurface buoyant jet: 3. Surface manifestations of internal waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bondur, V. G.; Grebenyuk, Yu. V.; Ezhova, E. V.; Kazakov, V. I.; Sergeev, D. A.; Soustova, I. A.; Troitskaya, Yu. I.

2010-08-01

In a large test reservoir at the Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences, a series of experiments were performed to investigate the surface manifestations of internal waves radiated by a subsurface buoyant jet. The field of currents on the water surface of the reservoir was studied through the distribution of temperature with shallow thermocline. Using Particle Tracking Velocimetry (PTV), the velocity field of surface currents was measured. A theoretical model was developed to calculate the rates of disturbances on the surface. A comparison with experimental data indicated that the calculated data of the surface rate value are overestimated. This discrepancy was explained by the presence of a film of surface-active substances (SASs) with experimentally obtained parameters. Using scale modeling coefficients, we estimated the parameters of internal waves radiated by the subsurface wastewater system and the values of their surface manifestations in field conditions. We estimated the hydrodynamic contrasts in the field of surface waves, which can be caused by these inhomogeneous currents on the surface. For a wind velocity of 5 m/s, the magnitude of the contrast in the field of short waves can reach up to 10-25%, which is detected with confidence by remote-sensing methods.

A comparative study on laser induced shock cleaning of radioactive contaminants in air and water

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kumar, Aniruddha; Prasad, Manisha; Bhatt, R. B.; Behere, P. G.; Biswas, D. J.

2018-03-01

Efficient removal of Uranium-di-oxide (UO2) particulates from stainless steel surface was effected by Nd-YAG laser induced plasma shock waves in air as well as in water environment. The propagation velocity of the generated shock wave was measured by employing the photo-acoustic probe deflection method. Monitoring of the alpha activity of the sample with a ZnS (Ag) scintillation detector before and after the laser exposure allowed the estimation of decontamination efficiency defined as the percentage removal of the initial activity. Experiments were carried out to study the effect of laser pulse energy, number of laser exposures, orientation of the sample, the separation between the substrate surface and the onset point of the shock wave on the de-contamination efficiency. The most optimised cleaning was found to occur when the laser beam impinged normally on the sample that was immersed in water and placed at a distance of ∼0.7 mm from the laser focal spot. Analysis of the cleaned surface by optical microscopes established that laser induced shock cleaning in no way altered the surface property. The shock force generated in both air and water has been estimated theoretically and has been found to exceed the Van der Waal's binding force for spherical contaminant particulate.

Kinetics and Chemistry of Ionization Wave Discharges Propagating Over Dielectric Surfaces

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Petrishchev, Vitaly

Experimental studies of near-surface ionization wave electric discharges generated by high peak voltage (20-30 kV), nanosecond duration pulses (full width at half-maximum 50-100 ns) of positive and negative polarity and propagating over dielectric surfaces have been performed. A novel way to sustain diffuse, reproducible, ns pulse surface plasmas at a liquid-vapor interface is demonstrated at buffer gas pressures ranging from 10 to 200 Torr. Generation of surface ionization waves well reproduced shot-to-shot and sustaining diffuse near-surface plasmas is one of the principal advantages of the use of ns pulse discharge waveforms. This makes possible characterization of these plasmas in repetitively pulsed experiments. Numerous applications of these plasmas include low-temperature plasma assisted combustion, plasma fuel reforming, plasma flow control, plasma materials processing, agriculture, biology, and medicine. The objectives of the present work are (i) to demonstrate that surface ionization wave discharge plasmas sustained at a liquid-vapor interface can be used as an experimental platform for studies of near-surface plasma chemical reaction kinetics, at the conditions when the interface acts as a high-yield source of radical species, and (ii) to obtain quantitative insight into dynamics, kinetics and chemistry of surface ionization wave discharges and provide experimental data for validation of kinetic models, to assess their predictive capability. Generation of the initial radical pool may trigger a number of plasma chemical processes leading to formation of a variety of stable product species, depending on the initial composition of the liquid and the buffer gas flow. One of the products formed and detected during surface plasma / liquid water interaction is hydroxyl radical, which is closely relevant to applications of plasmas for biology and medicine. The present work includes detailed studies of surface ionization wave discharges sustained in different buffer gases over solid and liquid dielectric surfaces, such as quartz, distilled water, saline solution, and alcohols, over a wide range of pressures. Specific experiments include: measurements of ionization wave speed; plasma emission imaging using a ns gate camera; detection of surface discharge plasma chemistry products using Fourier transform infrared absorption spectroscopy; surface charge dynamics on short (ns) and long (hundreds of mus) time scales; time-resolved electron density and electron temperature measurements in a ns pulse surface discharge in helium by Thomson scattering; spatially-resolved absolute OH and H atom concentration measurements in ns pulse discharges over distilled water by single-photon and two-photon Laser Induced Fluorescence; and schlieren imaging of perturbations generated by a ns pulse dielectric barrier discharge in a surface plasma actuator in quiescent atmospheric pressure air.

CMS-Wave

DTIC Science & Technology

2014-10-27

a phase-averaged spectral wind-wave generation and transformation model and its interface in the Surface-water Modeling System (SMS). Ambrose...applications of the Boussinesq (BOUSS-2D) wave model that provides more rigorous calculations for design and performance optimization of integrated...navigation systems . Together these wave models provide reliable predictions on regional and local spatial domains and cost-effective engineering solutions

33 CFR 177.07 - Other unsafe conditions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2012 CFR

2012-07-01

...) The wave height within the Regulated Boating Area is 4 feet or greater; or (2) The wave height within the Regulated Boating Area is equal to or greater than the wave height determined by the formula L/10... from the lowest point along the upper strake edge to the surface of the water. W=Maximum wave height in...

33 CFR 177.07 - Other unsafe conditions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2011 CFR

2011-07-01

...) The wave height within the Regulated Boating Area is 4 feet or greater; or (2) The wave height within the Regulated Boating Area is equal to or greater than the wave height determined by the formula L/10... from the lowest point along the upper strake edge to the surface of the water. W=Maximum wave height in...

33 CFR 177.07 - Other unsafe conditions.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2013 CFR

2013-07-01

...) The wave height within the Regulated Boating Area is 4 feet or greater; or (2) The wave height within the Regulated Boating Area is equal to or greater than the wave height determined by the formula L/10... from the lowest point along the upper strake edge to the surface of the water. W=Maximum wave height in...

Waves on radial film flows

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Cholemari, Murali R.; Arakeri, Jaywant H.

2005-08-01

We study the stability of surface waves on the radial film flow created by a vertical cylindrical water jet striking a horizontal plate. In such flows, surface waves have been found to be unstable and can cause transition to turbulence. This surface-wave-induced transition is different from the well-known Tollmien-Schlichting wave-induced transition. The present study aims at understanding the instability and the transition process. We do a temporal stability analysis by assuming the flow to be locally two-dimensional but including spatial variations to first order in the basic flow. The waves are found to be dispersive, mostly unstable, and faster than the mean flow. Spatial variation is the major destabilizing factor. Experiments are done to test the results of the linear stability analysis and to document the wave breakup and transition. Comparison between theory and experiments is fairly good and indicates the adequacy of the model.

A Powerful Method of Measuring Sea Wave Spectra and their Direction

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Blasi, Christoph; Mai, Stephan; Wilhelmi, Jens; Zenz, Theodor; Barjenbruch, Ulrich

2014-05-01

Besides the need of precise measurements of water levels of the sea, there is an increasing demand for assessing waves in height and direction for different purposes like sea-wave modelling and coastal engineering. The design of coastal structures such as piles, breakwaters, and offshore structures like wind farms must take account of the direction of the impacting waves. To date, records of wave directions are scarce. The reason for this might be the high costs of purchasing and operating such measuring devices. These are usually buoys, which require regular maintenance. Against this background, the German Federal Institute of Hydrology (BfG) developed a low-cost directional sea-wave monitoring system that is based on commercially available liquid-level radar sensors. These sensors have the advantage that they have no contact to the fluid, i.e. the corrosive sea water. The newly developed device was tested on two sites. One is the tide gauge 'Borkum Südstrand' that is located in the southern North Sea off the island of Borkum. The other one is the 'Research Platform FINO1' approximately 45 km north of the island of Borkum. The main focus of these tests is the comparison of the data measured by the radar-based system with those of a conventional Directional Wave Rider Buoy. The general conditions at the testing sites are good for the tests. At the tide gauge 'Borkum Südstrand' waves propagate in different directions, strongly influenced by the morphological conditions like shallow waters of the Wadden Seas and the coast of the island of Borkum. Whereas on the open sea, at the site FINO1, the full physical conditions of the sea state, like heavy storms etc. play an important role. To determine and measure the direction of waves, the device has to be able to assess the wave movements in two dimensions. Therefore, an array of several radar sensors is required. Radar sensors are widely used and well established in measuring water levels, e.g. in tanks and basins. They operate by emitting a chain of electromagnetic pulses at a frequency of 26 GHz twice per second and, in turn, detect the backscatter information from the water surface. As the travelling time of each pulse is proportional to the distance between water surface and sensor, the height of the water surface can be easily calculated. To obtain the directional information of the sea state, all four radar sensors in the array have to collect simultaneously the wave profiles at fixed points. The Wave Rider Buoy works in a completely different way. Here, the wave height is calculated by the double integration of the measured vertical acceleration. By correlating the three-dimensional motion data, which are gained from gravity-stabilized vertical and horizontal accelerometers, the directional wave spectrum can be derived. Data of both devices were collected and analysed. During the hurricane Xaver, extreme water levels and heavy sea hit the North Sea coast on 5 and 6 December 2013. The radar array at the testing site FINO1 measured wave heights in the order of 15.5 meters. Furthermore, it was possible to detect significant wave heights, the mean wave direction, and the spread of the sea state. For the first time the accuracy of the wave height distribution could be determined as well.

Nonlocal Reformulations of Water and Internal Waves and Asymptotic Reductions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ablowitz, Mark J.

2009-09-01

Nonlocal reformulations of the classical equations of water waves and two ideal fluids separated by a free interface, bounded above by either a rigid lid or a free surface, are obtained. The kinematic equations may be written in terms of integral equations with a free parameter. By expressing the pressure, or Bernoulli, equation in terms of the surface/interface variables, a closed system is obtained. An advantage of this formulation, referred to as the nonlocal spectral (NSP) formulation, is that the vertical component is eliminated, thus reducing the dimensionality and fixing the domain in which the equations are posed. The NSP equations and the Dirichlet-Neumann operators associated with the water wave or two-fluid equations can be related to each other and the Dirichlet-Neumann series can be obtained from the NSP equations. Important asymptotic reductions obtained from the two-fluid nonlocal system include the generalizations of the Benney-Luke and Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) equations, referred to as intermediate-long wave (ILW) generalizations. These 2+1 dimensional equations possess lump type solutions. In the water wave problem high-order asymptotic series are obtained for two and three dimensional gravity-capillary solitary waves. In two dimensions, the first term in the asymptotic series is the well-known hyperbolic secant squared solution of the KdV equation; in three dimensions, the first term is the rational lump solution of the KP equation.

Waves That Feed El Niños

NASA Image and Video Library

2009-10-29

Pools of warm water known as Kelvin waves can be seen traveling eastward along the equator black line in this image from the NASA/French Space Agency Ocean Surface Topography Mission/Jason-2 satellite.

Analytical characterization of selective benthic flux components in estuarine and coastal waters

USGS Publications Warehouse

King, Jeffrey N.

2011-01-01

Benthic flux is the rate of flow across the bed of a water body, per unit area of bed. It is forced by component mechanisms, which interact. For example, pressure gradients across the bed, forced by tide, surface gravity waves, density gradients, bed–current interaction, turbulence, and terrestrial hydraulic gradients, drive an advective benthic flux of water and constituents between estuarine and coastal waters, and surficial aquifers. Other mechanisms also force benthic flux, such as chemical gradients, bioturbation, and dispersion. A suite of component mechanisms force a total benthic flux at any given location, where each member of the suite contributes a component benthic flux. Currently, the types and characteristics of component interactions are not fully understood. For example, components may interact linearly or nonlinearly, and the interaction may be constructive or destructive. Benthic flux is a surface water–groundwater interaction process. Its discharge component to a marine water body is referred to, in some literature, as submarine groundwater discharge. Benthic flux is important in characterizing water and constituent budgets of estuarine and coastal systems. Analytical models to characterize selective benthic flux components are reviewed. Specifically, these mechanisms are for the component associated with the groundwater tidal prism, and forced by surface gravity wave setup, surface gravity waves on a plane bed, and the terrestrial hydraulic gradient. Analytical models are applied to the Indian River Lagoon, Florida; Great South Bay, New York; and the South Atlantic Bight in South Carolina and portions of North Carolina.

Liquefaction, ground oscillation, and soil deformation at the Wildlife Array, California

USGS Publications Warehouse

Holzer, T.L.; Youd, T.L.

2007-01-01

Excess pore-water pressure and liquefaction at the Wildlife Liquefaction Array in 1987 were caused by deformation associated with both high-frequency strong ground motion and 5.5-second-period Love waves. The Love waves produced large (???1.5%) cyclic shear strains well after the stronger high-frequency ground motion abated. These cyclic strains generated approximately from 13 to 35% of the excess pore-water pressure in the liquefied layer and caused excess pore-water pressures ultimately to reach effective overburden stress. The deformation associated with the Love waves explains the "postearthquake" increase of pore-water pressure that was recorded at the array. This explanation suggests that conventional methods for predicting liquefaction based on peak ground acceleration are incomplete and may need to consider cyclic strains associated with long-period surface waves. A post-earthquake survey of an inclinometer casing indicated permanent shear strain associated with lateral spreading primarily occurred in the upper part of the liquefied layer. Comparison of cone penetration test soundings conducted after the earthquake with pre-earthquake soundings suggests sleeve friction increased. Natural lateral variability of the liquefied layer obscured changes in tip resistance despite a ???1% reduction in volume. The large oscillatory motion associated with surface waves explains ground oscillation that has been reported at some liquefaction sites during earthquakes.

Propagation of shock waves in elastic solids caused by cavitation microjet impact. II: Application in extracorporeal shock wave lithotripsy.

PubMed

Zhong, P; Chuong, C J; Preminger, G M

1993-07-01

To better understand the mechanism of stone fragmentation during extracorporeal shock wave lithotripsy (ESWL), the model developed in Part I [P. Zhong and C.J. Chuong, J. Acoust. Soc. Am. 94, 19-28 (1993)] is applied to study cavitation microjet impingement and its resultant shock wave propagation in renal calculi. Impact pressure at the stone boundary and stress, strain at the propagating shock fronts in the stone were calculated for typical ESWL loading conditions. At the anterior surface of the stone, the jet induced compressive stress can vary from 0.82 approximately 4 times that of the water hammer pressure depending on the contact angles; whereas the jet-induced shear stress can achieve its maximum, with a magnitude of 30% approximately 54% of the water hammer pressure, near the detachment of the longitudinal (or P) wave in the solid. Comparison of model predictions with material failure strengths of renal calculi suggests that jet impact can lead to stone surface erosion by combined compressive and shear loadings at the jet impacting surface, and spalling failure by tensile forces at the distal surface of the stone. Comparing responses from four different stone types suggests that cystine is the most difficult stone to fragment in ESWL, as observed from clinical experience.

Verification and transfer of thermal pollution model. Volume 6: User's manual for 1-dimensional numerical model

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Lee, S. S.; Sengupta, S.; Nwadike, E. V.

1982-01-01

The six-volume report: describes the theory of a three dimensional (3-D) mathematical thermal discharge model and a related one dimensional (1-D) model, includes model verification at two sites, and provides a separate user's manual for each model. The 3-D model has two forms: free surface and rigid lid. The former, verified at Anclote Anchorage (FL), allows a free air/water interface and is suited for significant surface wave heights compared to mean water depth; e.g., estuaries and coastal regions. The latter, verified at Lake Keowee (SC), is suited for small surface wave heights compared to depth (e.g., natural or man-made inland lakes) because surface elevation has been removed as a parameter.

Sound radiation from a water-filled pipe, radiation into light fluid.

PubMed

Liu, Bilong; Pan, Jie; Li, Xiaodong; Tian, Jing

2002-12-01

This paper is concerned with the sound radiation from a water-filled exhaust pipe. The pipe opening and a plate attached to it form a vibrating surface for this radiation. Fluid-structural coupling between the pipe and enclosed fluid is included in the system modeling, but light fluid assumption is used for sound radiation into the space above the vibrating surface. In this paper, a numerical study on the n = 0 mode in the pipe shows that the wave types associated with this mode have different characteristics in two regions of the nondimensional frequency omega. In the first region of 0

Wind flow modulation due to variations of the water surface roughness

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Shomina, Olga; Ermakov, Stanislav; Kapustin, Ivan; Lazareva, Tatiana

2016-04-01

Air-ocean interaction is a classical problem in atmosphere and ocean physics, which has important geophysical applications related to calculation of vertical and horizontal humidity, aerosol and gas fluxes, development of global climate models and weather forecasts. The structure of wind flow over fixed underlying surfaces, such as forestry, buildings, mountains, is well described, while the interaction between a rough water surface and turbulent wind is far more complicated because of the presence of wind waves with different wavelength and amplitudes and propagating with different velocities and directions. The aim of this study was to investigate experimentally the variability of the wind profile structure due to variations of wave characteristics. The surface roughness variations were produced using a) surfactant films (oleic acid) spread on the water surface and b) mechanically generated waves superimposed on wind waves. The first case is related to oil slicks on sea surface, the second one - to the sea swell, which propagates into zones with lower wind velocities and interacts with wind flow. Laboratory experiments were conducted in the Oval Wind Wave Tank (OWWT) at the Institute of Applied Physics, cross-section of the wind channel is 30 cm x30 cm. Wave amplitude and the spectrum of surface waves were measured by a wire wave gauge, the wind speed was measured using a hot-wire anemometer DISA and a Pitot tube. In the experiments with surfactants, two frequencies of dripping of the oleic acid were studied, so that low concentration films with the elasticity parameters of about 19 mN/m and the high concentration ("thick") films with the elasticity of 34 mN/m were formed. In the experiments with mechanically generated waves (MGW) different regimes were studied with MGW amplitude of 3.4 mm and of 4.4 mm, and with MGW frequencies of 3.3 Hz and 3.7 Hz. It was shown, that: a) the mean velocity of the wind flow in the presence of surfactant and MGW can be described by a logarithmic profile; b) in the presence of a surfactant film an increase of wind speed was revealed; the more elastic films was deployed on the surface - the stronger wind acceleration was detected; c) MGW result in deceleration of wind flow, the larger MGW amplitude the stronger wind flow reduction is; d) the wind deceleration effect is more pronounced for MGW with higher frequency, i.e. for slower propagating MGW. e) experimental dependencies of the logarithmic wind profile characteristics as functions of the rout mean square (RMS) wave height were obtained demonstrating the growth of the wind friction velocity and the roughness coefficient with RMS. The work has been supported by the Russian Foundation of Basic Research (Projects № 14-05-31535, 14-05-00876, 15-35-20992).

Theoretical monochromatic-wave-induced currents in intermediate water with viscosity and nonzero mass transport

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Talay, T. A.

1975-01-01

Wave-induced mass-transport current theories with both zero and nonzero net mass (or volume) transport of the water column are reviewed. A relationship based on the Longuet-Higgens theory is derived for wave-induced, nonzero mass-transport currents in intermediate water depths for a viscous fluid. The relationship is in a form useful for experimental applications; therefore, some design criteria for experimental wave-tank tests are also presented. Sample parametric cases for typical wave-tank conditions and a typical ocean swell were assessed by using the relation in conjunction with an equation developed by Unluata and Mei for the maximum wave-induced volume transport. Calculations indicate that substantial changes in the wave-induced mass-transport current profiles may exist dependent upon the assumed net volume transport. A maximum volume transport, corresponding to an infinite channel or idealized ocean condition, produces the largest wave-induced mass-transport currents. These calculations suggest that wave-induced mass-transport currents may have considerable effects on pollution and suspended-sediments transport as well as buoy drift, the surface and midlayer water-column currents caused by waves increasing with increasing net volume transports. Some of these effects are discussed.

Wind-forced modulations in crossing sea states over infinite depth water

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Debsarma, Suma; Senapati, Sudipta; Das, K. P.

2014-09-01

The present work is motivated by the work of Leblanc ["Amplification of nonlinear surface waves by wind," Phys. Fluids 19, 101705 (2007)] which showed that Stokes waves grow super exponentially under fair wind as a result of modulational instability. Here, we have studied the effect of wind in a situation of crossing sea states characterized by two obliquely propagating wave systems in deep water. It is found that the wind-forced uniform wave solution in crossing seas grows explosively with a super-exponential growth rate even under a steady horizontal wind flow. This is an important piece of information in the context of the formation of freak waves.

Visible and Thermal Imaging of Sea Ice and Open Water from Coast Guard Arctic Domain Awareness Flights

DTIC Science & Technology

2014-09-30

dropsondes, micro- aircraft), cloud top/base heights Arctic Ocean Surface Temperature project Steele Buoy drops for SLP , SST, SSS, & surface velocity...Colón & Vancas (NIC) Drop buoys for SLP , temperature and surface velocity Waves & Fetch in the MIZ Thompson SWIFTS buoys measuring wave energy...Expendable CTD, AXCP= Air Expendable Current Profiler, SLP = Sea Level atmospheric Pressure, SST= Seas Surface Temperature, A/C= aircraft, FSD= Floe Size Distribution, SIC=Sea Ice Concentration

Seasonality of submesoscale dynamics in the Kuroshio Extension

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Rocha, Cesar B.; Gille, Sarah T.; Chereskin, Teresa K.; Menemenlis, Dimitris

2016-11-01

Recent studies show that the vigorous seasonal cycle of the mixed layer modulates upper ocean submesoscale turbulence. Here we provide model-based evidence that the seasonally changing upper ocean stratification in the Kuroshio Extension also modulates submesoscale (here 10-100 km) inertia-gravity waves. Summertime restratification weakens submesoscale turbulence but enhances inertia-gravity waves near the surface. Thus, submesoscale turbulence and inertia-gravity waves undergo vigorous out-of-phase seasonal cycles. These results imply a strong seasonal modulation of the accuracy of geostrophic velocity diagnosed from submesoscale sea surface height delivered by the Surface Water and Ocean Topography satellite mission.

Damping of surface waves due to oil emulsions in application to ocean remote sensing

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Sergievskaya, I.; Ermakov, S.; Lazareva, T.; Lavrova, O.

2017-10-01

Applications of different radar and optical methods for detection of oil pollutions based on the effect of damping of short wind waves by surface films have been extensively studied last decades. The main problem here is poor knowledge of physical characteristics of oil films, in particular, emulsified oil layers (EOL). The latter are ranged up to 70% of all pollutants. Physical characteristics of EOL which are responsible for wave damping and respectively for possibilities of their remote sensing depend on conditions of emulsification processes, e.g., mixing due to wave breaking, on percentage of water in the oil, etc. and are not well studied by now. In this paper results of laboratory studies of damping of gravity-capillary waves due to EOL on water are presented and compared to oil layers (OL). A laboratory method used previously for monomolecular films and OL, and based on measuring the damping coefficient and wavelength of parametrically generated standing waves has been applied for determination of EOL characteristics. Investigations of characteristics of crude oil, oil emulsions and crude OL and EOL have been carried out in a wide range of surface wave frequencies (from 10 to 25 Hz) and OL and EOL film thickness (from hundredths of millimeter to a few millimeters. The selected frequency range corresponds to Bragg waves for microwave, X- to Ka-band radars typically used for ocean remote sensing. An effect of enhanced wave damping due to EOL compared to non emulsified crude OL is revealed.

Nanometric Surface Oscillation Spectroscopy of Water-Poor Microemulsions.

PubMed

Corti, Mario; Raudino, Antonio; Cantù, Laura; Theisen, Johannes; Pleines, Maximilian; Zemb, Thomas N

2018-06-18

Selectively exchanging metal complexes between emulsified water-poor microemulsions and concentrated solutions of mixed electrolytes is the core technology for strategic metal recycling. Nanostructuration triggered by solutes present in the organic phase is understood, but little is known about fluctuations of the microemulsion-water interface. We use here a modified version of an opto-electric device initially designed for air bubbles, in order to evidence resonant electrically induced surface waves of an oily droplet suspended in an aqueous phase. Resonant waves of nanometer amplitude of a millimeter-sized microemulsion droplet containing a common ion-specific extractant diluted by dodecane and suspended in a solution of rare earth nitrate are evidenced for the first time with low excitation fields (5 V/cm). From variation of the surface wave spectrum with rare earth concentration, we evidence up-take of rare-earth ions at the interface and at higher concentration the formation of a thin "crust" of liquid crystal forming at unusually low concentration, indicative of a surface induced phase transition. The effect of the liquid crystal structure on the resonance spectrum is backed up by a model, which is used to estimate crust thickness.

Highly Adaptive Solid-Liquid Interfacing Triboelectric Nanogenerator for Harvesting Diverse Water Wave Energy.

PubMed

Zhao, Xue Jiao; Kuang, Shuang Yang; Wang, Zhong Lin; Zhu, Guang

2018-05-22

Harvesting water wave energy presents a significantly practical route to energy supply for self-powered wireless sensing networks. Here we report a networked integrated triboelectric nanogenerator (NI-TENG) as a highly adaptive means of harvesting energy from interfacing interactions with various types of water waves. Having an arrayed networking structure, the NI-TENG can accommodate diverse water wave motions and generate stable electric output regardless of how random the water wave is. Nanoscaled surface morphology consisting of dense nanowire arrays is the key for obtaining high electric output. A NI-TENG having an area of 100 × 70 mm 2 can produce a stable short-circuit current of 13.5 μA and corresponding electric power of 1.03 mW at a water wave height of 12 cm. This merit promises practical applications of the NI-TENG in real circumstances, where water waves are highly variable and unpredictable. After energy storage, the generated electric energy can drive wireless sensing by autonomously transmitting data at a period less than 1 min. This work proposes a viable solution for powering individual standalone nodes in a wireless sensor network. Potential applications include but are not limited to long-term environment monitoring, marine surveillance, and off-shore navigation.

SH-wave refraction/reflection and site characterization

USGS Publications Warehouse

Wang, Z.; Street, R.L.; Woolery, E.W.; Madin, I.P.

2000-01-01

Traditionally, nonintrusive techniques used to characterize soils have been based on P-wave refraction/reflection methods. However, near-surface unconsolidated soils are oftentimes water-saturated, and when groundwater is present at a site, the velocity of the P-waves is more related to the compressibility of the pore water than to the matrix of the unconsolidated soils. Conversely, SH-waves are directly relatable to the soil matrix. This makes SH-wave refraction/reflection methods effective in site characterizations where groundwater is present. SH-wave methods have been used extensively in site characterization and subsurface imaging for earthquake hazard assessments in the central United States and western Oregon. Comparison of SH-wave investigations with geotechnical investigations shows that SH-wave refraction/reflection techniques are viable and cost-effective for engineering site characterization.

Spectra of Baroclinic Inertia-Gravity Wave Turbulence

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Glazman, Roman E.

1996-01-01

Baroclinic inertia-gravity (IG) waves form a persistent background of thermocline depth and sea surface height oscillations. They also contribute to the kinetic energy of horizontal motions in the subsurface layer. Measured by the ratio of water particle velocity to wave phase speed, the wave nonlinearity may be rather high. Given a continuous supply of energy from external sources, nonlinear wave-wave interactions among IG waves would result in inertial cascades of energy, momentum, and wave action. Based on a recently developed theory of wave turbulence in scale-dependent systems, these cascades are investigated and IG wave spectra are derived for an arbitrary degree of wave nonlinearity. Comparisons with satellite-altimetry-based spectra of surface height variations and with energy spectra of horizontal velocity fluctuations show good agreement. The well-known spectral peak at the inertial frequency is thus explained as a result of the inverse cascade. Finally, we discuss a possibility of inferring the internal Rossby radius of deformation and other dynamical properties of the upper thermocline from the spectra of SSH (sea surface height) variations based on altimeter measurements.

Bed failure induced by internal solitary waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Rivera-Rosario, Gustavo A.; Diamessis, Peter J.; Jenkins, James T.

2017-07-01

The pressure field inside a porous bed induced by the passage of an Internal Solitary Wave (ISW) of depression is examined using high-accuracy numerical simulations. The velocity and density fields are obtained by solving the Dubreil-Jacotin-Long Equation, for a two-layer, continuously stratified water column. The total wave-induced pressure across the surface of the bed is computed by vertically integrating for the hydrostatic and nonhydrostatic contributions. The bed is assumed to be a continuum composed of either sand or silt, with a small amount of trapped gas. Results show variations in pore-water pressure penetrating deeper into more conductive materials and remaining for a prolonged period after the wave has passed. In order to quantify the potential for failure, the vertical pressure gradient is compared against the buoyant weight of the bed. The pressure gradient exceeds this weight for weakly conductive materials. Failure is further enhanced by a decrease in bed saturation, consistent with studies in surface-wave induced failure. In deeper water, the ISW-induced pressure is stronger, causing failure only for weakly conductive materials. The pressure associated with the free-surface displacement that accompanies ISWs is significant, when the water depth is less than 100 m, but has little influence when it is greater than 100 m, where the hydrostatic pressure due to the pycnocline displacement is much larger. Since the pore-pressure gradient reduces the specific weight of the bed, results show that particles are easier for the flow to suspend, suggesting that pressure contributes to the powerful resuspension events observed in the field.

PHYSICS OF OUR DAYS: Nonlinear long waves on water and solitons

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zeytounian, R. Kh

1995-12-01

The water wave problem has been pivotal in the history of nonlinear wave theory. This problem is one of the most interesting and successful applications of nonlinear hydrodynamics. Waves on the free surface of a body of water (perfect liquid) have always been a fascinating subject, for they represent a familiar yet complex phenomenon, easy to observe but very difficult to describe! The archetypical model equations of Kordeweg and de Vries and of Boussinesq, for example, were originally derived as approximations for water waves, and research into the problem has been sustained vigorously up to the present day. In the present paper, the derivation of the model equations is given in depth and rational use is made of asymptotic methods. Indeed, it is important to understand that in some cases the derivation of these approximate equations is intuitive and heuristic. In fact, it is not clear how to insert the model equation under consideration into a hierarchy of rational approximations, which in turn result from the exact formulation of the selected water wave problem.

Characterization of the Subsurface Using Vp, Vs, Vp/Vs, and Poisson's Ratio from Body and Surface Waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Catchings, R.

2017-12-01

P- and S-wave propagation differ in varying materials in the Earth's crust. As a result, combined measurements of P- and S-wave data can be used to infer properties of the shallow crust, including bulk composition, fluid saturation, faulting and fracturing, seismic velocities, reflectivity, and general structures. Ratios of P- to S-wave velocities and Poisson's ratio, which can be derived from the P- and S-wave data, can be particularly diagnostic of subsurface materials and their physical state. In field studies, S-wave data can be obtained directly with S-wave sources or from surface waves associated with P-wave sources. P- and S-wave data can be processed using reflection, refraction, and surface-wave-analysis methods. With the combined data, unconsolidated sediments, consolidated sediments, and rocks can be differentiated on the basis of seismic velocities and their ratios, as can saturated versus unsaturated sediments. We summarize studies where we have used combined P- and S-wave measurements to reliably map the top of ground water, prospect for minerals, locate subsurface faults, locate basement interfaces, determine basin shapes, and measure shear-wave velocities (with calculated Vs30), and other features of the crust that are important for hazards, engineering, and exploration purposes. When compared directly, we find that body waves provide more accurate measures than surface waves.

A Study of Water Wave Wakes of Washington State Ferries

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Perfect, Bradley; Riley, James; Thomson, Jim; Fay, Endicott

2015-11-01

Washington State Ferries (WSF) operates a ferry route that travels through a 600m-wide channel called Rich Passage. Concerns of shoreline erosion in Rich Passage have prompted this study of the generation and propagation of surface wave wakes caused by WSF vessels. The problem was addressed in three ways: analytically, using an extension of the Kelvin wake model by Darmon et al. (J. Fluid Mech., 738, 2014); computationally, employing a RANS Navier-Stokes model in the CFD code OpenFOAM which uses the Volume of Fluid method to treat the free surface; and with field data taken in Sept-Nov, 2014, using a suite of surface wave measuring buoys. This study represents one of the first times that model predictions of ferry boat-generated wakes can be tested against measurements in open waters. The results of the models and the field data are evaluated using direct comparison of predicted and measured surface wave height as well as other metrics. Furthermore, the model predictions and field measurements suggest differences in wake amplitudes for different class vessels. Finally, the relative strengths and weaknesses of each prediction method as well as of the field measurements will be discussed. Washington State Department of Transportation.

Stokes drift

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

van den Bremer, T. S.; Breivik, Ø.

2017-12-01

During its periodic motion, a particle floating at the free surface of a water wave experiences a net drift velocity in the direction of wave propagation, known as the Stokes drift (Stokes 1847 Trans. Camb. Philos. Soc. 8, 441-455). More generally, the Stokes drift velocity is the difference between the average Lagrangian flow velocity of a fluid parcel and the average Eulerian flow velocity of the fluid. This paper reviews progress in fundamental and applied research on the induced mean flow associated with surface gravity waves since the first description of the Stokes drift, now 170 years ago. After briefly reviewing the fundamental physical processes, most of which have been established for decades, the review addresses progress in laboratory and field observations of the Stokes drift. Despite more than a century of experimental studies, laboratory studies of the mean circulation set up by waves in a laboratory flume remain somewhat contentious. In the field, rapid advances are expected due to increasingly small and cheap sensors and transmitters, making widespread use of small surface-following drifters possible. We also discuss remote sensing of the Stokes drift from high-frequency radar. Finally, the paper discusses the three main areas of application of the Stokes drift: in the coastal zone, in Eulerian models of the upper ocean layer and in the modelling of tracer transport, such as oil and plastic pollution. Future climate models will probably involve full coupling of ocean and atmosphere systems, in which the wave model provides consistent forcing on the ocean surface boundary layer. Together with the advent of new space-borne instruments that can measure surface Stokes drift, such models hold the promise of quantifying the impact of wave effects on the global atmosphere-ocean system and hopefully contribute to improved climate projections. This article is part of the theme issue 'Nonlinear water waves'.

Nonlinear water waves generated by impulsive motion of submerged obstacle

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Makarenko, N.; Kostikov, V.

2012-04-01

The fully nonlinear problem on generation of unsteady water waves by impulsively moving obstacle is studied analytically. The method involves the reduction of basic Euler equations to the integral-differential system for the wave elevation together with normal and tangential fluid velocities at the free surface. Exact model equations are derived in explicit form when the isolated obstacle is presented by totally submerged circular- or elliptic cylinder. Small-time asymptotic solution is constructed for the cylinder which starts moving with constant acceleration from rest. It is demonstrated that the leading-order solution terms describe several wave regimes such as the formation of non-stationary splash jets by vertical rising or vertical submersion of the obstacle, as well as the generation of diverging waves by horizontal- and combined motion of the obstacle under free surface. This work was supported by RFBR (grant No 10-01-00447) and by Research Program of the Russian Government (grant No 11.G34.31.0035).

Modeling of Waves Propagating in Water with a Crushed Ice Layer on the Free Surface

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Szmidt, Kazimierz

2017-12-01

A transformation of gravitational waves in fluid of constant depth with a crushed ice layer floating on the free fluid surface is considered. The propagating waves undergo a slight damping along their path of propagation. The main goal of the study is to construct an approximate descriptive model of this phenomenon.With regard to small displacements of the free surface, a viscous type model of damping is considered, which corresponds to a continuous distribution of dash-pots at the free surface of the fluid. A constant parameter of the dampers is assumed in advance as known parameter of damping. This parameter may be obtained by means of experiments in a laboratory flume.

Numerical simulation of wave-current interaction using the SPH method

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

He, Ming; Gao, Xi-feng; Xu, Wan-hai

2018-05-01

In this paper, the smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method is used to build a numerical wave-current tank (NWCT). The wave is generated by using a piston-type wave generator and is absorbed by using a sponge layer. The uniform current field is generated by simultaneously imposing the directional velocity and hydrostatic pressure in both inflow and outflow regions set below the NWCT. Particle cyclic boundaries are also implemented for recycling the Lagrangian fluid particles. Furthermore, to shorten the time to reach a steady state, a temporary rigid-lid treatment for the water surface is proposed. It turns out to be very effective for weakening the undesired oscillatory flow at the beginning stage of the current generation. The calculated water surface elevation and horizontal-velocity profile are validated against the available experimental data. Satisfactory agreements are obtained, demonstrating the good capability of the NWCT.

A laboratory study of the electromagnetic bias of rough surface scattering by water waves

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Parsons, Chester L.; Miller, Lee S.

1990-01-01

The design, development, and use of a focused-beam radar to measure the electromagnetic bias introduced by the scattering of radar waves by a roughened water surface are discussed. The bias measurements were made over wide ranges of environmental conditions in a wavetank laboratory. Wave-elevation data were provided by standard laboratory capacitance probes. Backscattered radar power measurements coincident in time and space with the elevation data were produced by the radar. The two data sets are histogrammed to produce probability density functions for elevation and radar reflectivity, from which the electromagnetic bias is computed. The experimental results demonstrate that the electromagnetic bias is quite variable over the wide range of environmental conditions that can be produced in the laboratory. The data suggest that the bias is dependent upon the local wind field and on the amplitude and frequency of any background wave field that is present.

Experimental investigation of effect of surface gravity waves and spray on heat and momentum flux at strong wind conditions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Troitskaya, Yuliya; Sergeev, Daniil; Vdovin, Maxim; Kandaurov, Alexander; Ermakova, Olga; Kazakov, Vassily

2015-04-01

The most important characteristics that determine the interaction between atmosphere and ocean are fluxes of momentum, heat and moisture. For their parameterization the dimensionless exchange coefficients (the surface drag coefficient CD and the heat transfer coefficient or the Stanton number CT) are used. Numerous field and laboratory experiments show that CD increases with increasing wind speed at moderate and strong wind, and as it was shows recently CD decreases at hurricane wind speed. Waves are known to increase the sea surface resistance due to enhanced form drag, the sea spray is considered as a possible mechanism of the 'drag reduction' at hurricane conditions. The dependence of heat transfer coefficient CD on the wind speed is not so certain and the role of the mechanism associated with the wave disturbances in the mass transfer is not completely understood. Observations and laboratory data show that this dependence is weaker than for the CD, and there are differences in the character of the dependence in different data sets. The purpose of this paper is investigation of the effect of surface waves on the turbulent exchange of momentum and heat within the laboratory experiment, when wind and wave parameters are maintained and controlled. The effect of spray on turbulent exchange at strong winds is also estimated. A series of experiments to study the processes of turbulent exchange of momentum and heat in a stably stratified temperature turbulent boundary layer air flow over waved water surface were carried out at the Wind - wave stratified flume of IAP RAS, the peculiarity of this experiment was the option to change the surface wave parameters regardless of the speed of the wind flow in the channel. For this purpose a polyethylene net with the variable depth (0.25 mm thick and a cell of 1.6 mm × 1.6mm) has been stretched along the channel. The waves were absent when the net was located at the level of the undisturbed water surface, and had maximum amplitude at the maximum depth of the net (33cm). To create a stable temperature stratification of the wind, the air entering the flume was heated to 30-40 oC. The water temperature was maintained about 15 degrees. The air flow velocity in the flume corresponded to the 10-m wind speed from 10 to 35 m/s. Turbulent fluxes of heat and momentum and roughness parameters were retrieved from the velocity and temperature profiles measured at the distance 6.5 m from the inlet of the flume and subsequent data processing exploiting the self-similarity of the temperature and velocity profiles. In a result surface drag and heat exchange coefficients and roughness parameters were obtained. Wind wave spectra and integral parameters (significant wave height, mean square slope) were retrieved from measurements by 3-channel array wave gauge by coherent spectral data processing. To estimate the amount of spray in the air flow, a spray marker was introduced using the effect of a sharp decline in film anemometer readings in contact with a droplet. Dependences of the exchange coefficients on the wind speed, wave parameters and the spray marker were obtained. It is shown that the exchange coefficients increase with the wind speed and wave height. It was found, that the sharp increase of the drag and heat exchange coefficients at wind speeds exceeded 25 m/s was accompanied by the emergence and increasing concentration of the spray in the air flow over water. The correlation coefficient between the drag coefficient and the spray marker was about 0.9. Using high-speed video revealed the dominant mechanism for the generation of spray at strong winds. It is shown that it is associated with the development of a special type of instability of the air-water interface, which is known as "bag-breakup instability" in the theory of fragmentation of liquids. The hypothesis is suggested, that the observed increase of surface drag and heat exchange can be attributed to the development of this type of instability. This work was supported by the Russian Foundation of Basic Research (13-05-00865, 14-05-91767, 13-05-12093, 15-05-) and Alexander Kandaurov, Maxim Vdovin and Olga Ermakova acknowledge partial support from Russian Science Foundation (Agreement No. 14-17-00667).

Optimizing the loss of one-dimensional photonic crystal towards high-sensitivity Bloch-surface-wave sensors under intensity interrogation scheme

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kong, Weijing; Wan, Yuhang; Du, Kun; Zhao, Wenhui; Wang, Shuang; Zheng, Zheng

2016-11-01

The reflected intensity change of the Bloch-surface-wave (BSW) resonance influenced by the loss of a truncated onedimensional photonic crystal structure is numerically analyzed and studied in order to enhance the sensitivity of the Bloch-surface-wave-based sensors. The finite truncated one-dimensional photonic crystal structure is designed to be able to excite BSW mode for water (n=1.33) as the external medium and for p-polarized plane wave incident light. The intensity interrogation scheme which can be operated on a typical Kretschmann prism-coupling configuration by measuring the reflected intensity change of the resonance dip is investigated to optimize the sensitivity. A figure of merit (FOM) is introduced to measure the performance of the one-dimensional photonic crystal multilayer structure under the scheme. The detection sensitivities are calculated under different device parameters with a refractive index change corresponding to different solutions of glycerol in de-ionized (DI)-water. The results show that the intensity sensitivity curve varies similarly with the FOM curve and the sensitivity of the Bloch-surface-wave sensor is greatly affected by the device loss, where an optimized loss value can be got. For the low-loss BSW devices, the intensity interrogation sensing sensitivity may drop sharply from the optimal value. On the other hand, the performance of the detection scheme is less affected by the higher device loss. This observation is in accordance with BSW experimental sensing demonstrations as well. The results obtained could be useful for improving the performance of the Bloch-surface-wave sensors for the investigated sensing scheme.

Negative pressures and spallation in water drops subjected to nanosecond shock waves

DOE PAGES

Stan, Claudiu A.; Willmott, Philip R.; Stone, Howard A.; ...

2016-05-16

Most experimental studies of cavitation in liquid water at negative pressures reported cavitation at tensions significantly smaller than those expected for homogeneous nucleation, suggesting that achievable tensions are limited by heterogeneous cavitation. We generated tension pulses with nanosecond rise times in water by reflecting cylindrical shock waves, produced by X-ray laser pulses, at the internal surface of drops of water. Depending on the X-ray pulse energy, a range of cavitation phenomena occurred, including the rupture and detachment, or spallation, of thin liquid layers at the surface of the drop. When spallation occurred, we evaluated that negative pressures below –100 MPamore » were reached in the drops. As a result, we model the negative pressures from shock reflection experiments using a nucleation-and-growth model that explains how rapid decompression could outrun heterogeneous cavitation in water, and enable the study of stretched water close to homogeneous cavitation pressures.« less

Models and observations of foam coverage and bubble content in the surf zone

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kirby, J. T.; Shi, F.; Holman, R. A.

2010-12-01

Optical and acoustical observations and communications are hampered in the nearshore by the presence of bubbles and foam generated by breaking waves. Bubble clouds in the water column provide a highly variable (both spatially and temporally) obstacle to direct acoustic and optical paths. Persistent foam riding on the water surface creates a primary occlusion of optical penetration into the water column. In an effort to better understand and predict the level of bubble and foam content in the surfzone, we have been pursuing the development of a detailed phase resolved model of fluid and gaseous components of the water column, using a Navier-Stokes/VOF formulation extended to include a multiphase description of polydisperse bubble populations. This sort of modeling provides a detailed description of large scale turbulent structures and associated bubble transport mechanisms under breaking wave crests. The modeling technique is too computationally intensive, however, to provide a wider-scale description of large surfzone regions. In order to approach the larger scale problem, we are developing a model for spatial and temporal distribution of foam and bubbles within the framework of a Boussinesq model. The basic numerical framework for the code is described by Shi et al (2010, this conference). Bubble effects are incorporated both in the mass and momentum balances for weakly dispersive, fully nonlinear waves, with spatial and temporal bubble distributions parameterized based on the VOF modeling and measurements and tied to the computed rate of dissipation of energy during breaking. A model of a foam layer on the water surface is specified using a shallow water formulation. Foam mass conservation includes source and sink terms representing outgassing of the water column, direct foam generation due to surface agitation, and erosion due to bubble bursting. The foam layer motion in the plane of the water surface arises due to a balance of drag forces due to wind and water column motion. Preliminary steps to calibrate and verify the resulting models will be taken based on results to be collected during the Surf Zone Optics experiment at Duck, NC in September 2010. Initial efforts will focus on an examination of breaking wave patterns and persistent foam distributions, using ARGUS imagery.

Verification and transfer of thermal pollution model. Volume 3: Verification of 3-dimensional rigid-lid model

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Lee, S. S.; Sengupta, S.; Nwadike, E. V.; Sinha, S. K.

1982-01-01

The six-volume report: describes the theory of a three dimensional (3-D) mathematical thermal discharge model and a related one dimensional (1-D) model, includes model verification at two sites, and provides a separate user's manual for each model. The 3-D model has two forms: free surface and rigid lid. The former, verified at Anclote Anchorage (FL), allows a free air/water interface and is suited for significant surface wave heights compared to mean water depth; e.g., estuaries and coastal regions. The latter, verified at Lake Keowee (SC), is suited for small surface wave heights compared to depth (e.g., natural or man-made inland lakes) because surface elevation has been removed as a parameter. These models allow computation of time-dependent velocity and temperature fields for given initial conditions and time-varying boundary conditions. The free-surface model also provides surface height variations with time.

Waves, Hydrodynamics and Sediment Transport Modeling at Grays Harbor, WA

DTIC Science & Technology

2010-12-01

Grays Harbor Federal navigation project. At the same time, offshore wind and wave data were available from NDBC Buoy 46029 and CDIP Buoy 036 / NDBC...is forced by the regional ADCIRC water levels and currents, surface wind field, and offshore waves based on the CDIP Buoy 036 (NDBC 46211). Figures

Changes in crack shape and saturation during water penetration into stressed rock

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Masuda, K.; Nishizawa, O.

2012-12-01

Open cracks and cavities in rocks play important roles in fluid transport. Water penetration induced microcrack activities and caused the failure of rocks. Fluids in cracks affect earthquake generation mechanism through physical and physicochemical effects. Methods of characterizing crack shape and water saturation of rocks underground are needed for many scientific and industrial applications. It would be desirable to estimate the status of cracks using readily observable data such as elastic-wave velocities. We demonstrate a laboratory method for estimating crack status inside a cylindrical rock sample based on least-squares fitting of a cracked solid model to measured P- and S-wave velocities, and porosity derived from strain data. We used a cylinder (50 mm in diameter and 100 mm in length) of medium-grained granite. We applied a differential stress of 370 MPa, which corresponds to about 70% of fracture strength, to the rock sample under 30 MPa confining pressure and held it constant throughout the experiment. When the primary creep stage and acoustic emission (AE) caused by the initial loading had ceased, we injected distilled water into the bottom end of the sample at a constant pressure of 25 MPa until macroscopic fracture occurred. During water migration, we measured P waves and S waves (Sv and Sh), in five directions parallel to the top and bottom surfaces of the sample. We also measured strains of the sample surface and monitored AE. We created X-ray computer tomography (CT) images of the rock sample after the experiment in order to recognize the location and shape of fractured surfaces. We observed the different patterns of velocity changes in the upper and lower portions of the rock sample. Changes in P-wave velocities can be interpreted based on the crack density. S-waves showed the splitting with Vsv being faster than Vsh, corresponding to the second kind of anisotropy. We estimated two crack characteristics, crack shape and the degree of water saturation, and their changes during the loading and water migration into a granitic rock subjected to confining pressure and differential stress. We found that during injection of water to induce failure of a stressed rock sample, the aspect ratio of cracks increased and the degree of water saturation increased to about 70%. Laboratory derived method can be applicable for the well-planned observation in the field experiments. Monitoring in situ crack situations with seismic waves are useful for industrial and scientific applications such as sequestrations of carbon dioxide and waste, and measuring the regional stress field.

Wave Tank Studies of Phase Velocities of Short Wind Waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ermakov, S.; Sergievskaya, I.; Shchegolkov, Yu.

Wave tank studies of phase velocities of short wind waves have been carried out using Ka-band radar and an Optical Spectrum Analyser. The phase velocities were retrieved from measured radar and optical Doppler shifts, taking into account measurements of surface drift velocities. The dispersion relationship was studied in centimetre (cm)- and millimetre(mm)-scale wavelength ranges at different fetches and wind speeds, both for a clean water surface and for water covered with surfactant films. It is ob- tained that the phase velocities do not follow the dispersion relation of linear capillary- gravity waves, increasing with fetch and, therefore, depending on phase velocities of dominant decimetre (dm)-centimetre-scale wind waves. One thus can conclude that nonlinear cm-mm-scale harmonics bound to the dominant wind waves and propagat- ing with the phase velocities of the decimetric waves are present in the wind wave spectrum. The resulting phase velocities of short wind waves are determined by re- lation between free and bound waves. The relative intensity of the bound waves in the spectrum of short wind waves is estimated. It is shown that this relation depends strongly on the surfactant concentration, because the damping effect due to films is different for free and bound waves; this results to changes of phase velocities of wind waves in the presence of surfactant films. This work was supported by MOD, UK via DERA Winfrith (Project ISTC 1774P) and by RFBR (Project 02-05-65102).

Verification and transfer of thermal pollution model. Volume 2: User's manual for 3-dimensional free-surface model

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Lee, S. S.; Sengupta, S.; Tuann, S. Y.; Lee, C. R.

1982-01-01

The six-volume report: describes the theory of a three-dimensional (3-D) mathematical thermal discharge model and a related one-dimensional (1-D) model, includes model verification at two sites, and provides a separate user's manual for each model. The 3-D model has two forms: free surface and rigid lid. The former, verified at Anclote Anchorage (FL), allows a free air/water interface and is suited for significant surface wave heights compared to mean water depth; e.g., estuaries and coastal regions. The latter, verified at Lake Keowee (SC), is suited for small surface wave heights compared to depth. These models allow computation of time-dependent velocity and temperature fields for given initial conditions and time-varying boundary conditions.

Cyclic fluctuations of water level as a basis for determining aquifer transmissibility

USGS Publications Warehouse

Ferris, John G.

1952-01-01

In coastal areas, wells near bodies of tidal water frequently exhibit sinusoidal fluctuations of water level, in response to periodic changes of tidewater stage.  Inland, the regulation of a surface reservoir often produces correlative changes of ground-water stage in wells adjacent either to the reservoir or to its attendant stream.  As the stage of the surface water rises, the head upon the subaqueous outcrop of the aquifer increases and thereby either increases the rate of inflow to the aquifer or reduces the rate of outflow therefrom.  The increase in recharge or reduction in discharge results in a general recovery of water level in the aquifer. On the subsequent falling stage this pattern is reversed.  When the stage of the surface body fluctuates as a simple harmonic motion a train of sinusoidal waves is propagated shoreward through the sub-outcrop of the aquifer.  With increasing distance from the sub-outcrop, the amplitude of the transmitted wave decreases and the time lag of a given maximum or minimum increases.

Shock-wave propagation and cavitation bubble oscillation by Nd:YAG laser ablation of a metal in water.

PubMed

Chen, Xiao; Xu, Rong-Qing; Chen, Jian-Ping; Shen, Zhong-Hua; Jian, Lu; Ni, Xiao-Wu

2004-06-01

A highly sensitive fiber-optic sensor based on optical beam deflection is applied for investigating the propagation of a laser-induced plasma shock wave, the oscillation of a cavitation bubble diameter, and the development of a bubble-collapse-induced shock wave when a Nd:YAG laser pulse is focused upon an aluminum surface in water. By the sequence of experimental waveforms detected at different distances, the attenuation properties of the plasma shock wave and of the bubble-collapse-induced shock wave are obtained. Besides, based on characteristic signals, both the maximum and the minimum bubble radii at each oscillation cycle are determined, as are the corresponding oscillating periods.

Numerical studies of the KP line-solitons

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Chakravarty, S.; McDowell, T.; Osborne, M.

2017-03-01

The Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) equation admits a class of solitary wave solutions localized along distinct rays in the xy-plane, called the line-solitons, which describe the interaction of shallow water waves on a flat surface. These wave interactions have been observed on long, flat beaches, as well as have been recreated in laboratory experiments. In this paper, the line-solitons are investigated via direct numerical simulations of the KP equation, and the interactions of the evolved solitary wave patterns are studied. The objective is to obtain greater insight into solitary wave interactions in shallow water and to determine the extent the KP equation is a good model in describing these nonlinear interactions.

Covariances and spectra of the kinematics and dynamics of nonlinear waves

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Tung, C. C.; Huang, N. E.

1985-01-01

Using the Stokes waves as a model of nonlinear waves and considering the linear component as a narrow-band Gaussian process, the covariances and spectra of velocity and acceleration components and pressure for points in the vicinity of still water level were derived taking into consideration the effects of free surface fluctuations. The results are compared with those obtained earlier using linear Gaussian waves.

Longshore Sediment Transport Rate Calculated Incorporating Wave Orbital Velocity Fluctuations

DTIC Science & Technology

2006-09-01

distribution of longshore sediment transport in the surf zone is necessary in the design and planning of groins, jetties, weirs and pipeline landfalls...transported by any current. Breaker height is defined as the vertical distance between the wave crest and the preceding wave trough at incipient...terminology; spilling breakers occur if the wave crest becomes unstable and flows down the front face of the wave producing a foamy water surface; plunging

Experimental evaluation of theoretical sea surface reflectance factors relevant to above-water radiometry.

PubMed

Zibordi, Giuseppe

2016-03-21

Determination of the water-leaving radiance L_W through above-water radiometry requires knowledge of accurate reflectance factors ρ of the sea surface. Publicly available ρ relevant to above-water radiometry include theoretical data sets generated: i. by assuming a sky radiance distribution accounting for aerosols and multiple scattering, but neglecting polarization, and quantifying sea surface effects through Cox-Munk wave slope statistics; or differently ii. accounting for polarization, but assuming an ideal Rayleigh sky radiance distribution, and quantifying sea surface effects through modeled wave elevation and slope variance spectra. The impact on above-water data products of differences between those factors ρ was quantified through comparison of L_W from the Ocean Color component of the Aerosol Robotic Network (AERONET-OC) with collocated L_W from in-water radiometry. Results from the analysis of radiance measurements from the sea performed with 40 degrees viewing angle and 90 degrees azimuth offset with respect to the sun plane, indicated a slightly better agreement between above- and in-water L_W determined for wind speeds tentatively lower than 4 m s^-1 with ρ computed accounting for aerosols, multiple scattering and Cox-Munk surfaces. Nevertheless, analyses performed by partitioning the investigated data set also indicated that actual ρ values would exhibit dependence on sun zenith comprised between those characterizing the two sets of reflectance factors.

Rogue waves in shallow water

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Soomere, T.

2010-07-01

Most of the processes resulting in the formation of unexpectedly high surface waves in deep water (such as dispersive and geometrical focusing, interactions with currents and internal waves, reflection from caustic areas, etc.) are active also in shallow areas. Only the mechanism of modulational instability is not active in finite depth conditions. Instead, wave amplification along certain coastal profiles and the drastic dependence of the run-up height on the incident wave shape may substantially contribute to the formation of rogue waves in the nearshore. A unique source of long-living rogue waves (that has no analogues in the deep ocean) is the nonlinear interaction of obliquely propagating solitary shallow-water waves and an equivalent mechanism of Mach reflection of waves from the coast. The characteristic features of these processes are (i) extreme amplification of the steepness of the wave fronts, (ii) change in the orientation of the largest wave crests compared with that of the counterparts and (iii) rapid displacement of the location of the extreme wave humps along the crests of the interacting waves. The presence of coasts raises a number of related questions such as the possibility of conversion of rogue waves into sneaker waves with extremely high run-up. Also, the reaction of bottom sediments and the entire coastal zone to the rogue waves may be drastic.

Gravity-Capillary Lumps

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Akylas, Triantaphyllos R.; Kim, Boguk

2004-11-01

In dispersive wave systems, it is known that 1-D plane solitary waves can bifurcate from linear sinusoidal wavetrains at particular wave numbers k = k0 where the phase speed c(k) happens to be an extremum (dc/dk| _0=0) and equals the group speed c_g(k_0). Two distinct possibilities thus arise: either the extremum occurs in the long-wave limit (k_0=0) and, as in shallow water, the bifurcating solitary waves are of the KdV type; or k0 ne 0 and the solitary waves are in the form of packets, described by the NLS equation to leading order, as for gravity-capillary waves in deep water. Here it is pointed out that an entirely analogous scenario is valid for the genesis of 2-D solitary waves or `lumps'. Lumps also may bifurcate at extrema of the phase speed and do so when 1-D solitary waves happen to be unstable to transverse perturbations; moreover, they have algebraically decaying tails and are either of the KPI type (e.g. in shallow water in the presence of strong surface tension) or of the wave packet type (e.g. in deep water) and are described by an elliptic-elliptic Davey-Stewartson equation system to leading order. Examples of steady lump profiles are presented and their dynamics is discussed.

Aqueous turbulence structure immediately adjacent to the air - water interface and interfacial gas exchange

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wang, Binbin

Air-sea interaction and the interfacial exchange of gas across the air-water interface are of great importance in coupled atmospheric-oceanic environmental systems. Aqueous turbulence structure immediately adjacent to the air-water interface is the combined result of wind, surface waves, currents and other environmental forces and plays a key role in energy budgets, gas fluxes and hence the global climate system. However, the quantification of turbulence structure sufficiently close to the air-water interface is extremely difficult. The physical relationship between interfacial gas exchange and near surface turbulence remains insufficiently investigated. This dissertation aims to measure turbulence in situ in a complex environmental forcing system on Lake Michigan and to reveal the relationship between turbulent statistics and the CO2 flux across the air-water interface. The major objective of this dissertation is to investigate the physical control of the interfacial gas exchange and to provide a universal parameterization of gas transfer velocity from environmental factors, as well as to propose a mechanistic model for the global CO2 flux that can be applied in three dimensional climate-ocean models. Firstly, this dissertation presents an advanced measurement instrument, an in situ free floating Particle Image Velocimetry (FPIV) system, designed and developed to investigate the small scale turbulence structure immediately below the air-water interface. Description of hardware components, design of the system, measurement theory, data analysis procedure and estimation of measurement error were provided. Secondly, with the FPIV system, statistics of small scale turbulence immediately below the air-water interface were investigated under a variety of environmental conditions. One dimensional wave-number spectrum and structure function sufficiently close to the water surface were examined. The vertical profiles of turbulent dissipation rate were intensively studied. Comparison between the turbulence structures measured during the wind wave initiation period and those obtained during the growing period was presented. Significant wave effects on near surface turbulence were found. A universal scaling law was proposed to parameterize turbulent dissipation rate immediately below the air-water interface with friction velocity, significant wave height and wave age. Finally, the gas transfer velocity was measured with a floating chamber (FC) system, along with simultaneously FPIV measurements. Turbulent dissipation rate both at the interface and at a short distance away from the interface (~ 10 cm) were analyzed and used to examine the small scale eddy model. The model coefficient was found to be dependent on the level of turbulence, instead of being a constant. An empirical relationship between the model coefficient and turbulent dissipation rate was provided, which improved the accuracy of the gas transfer velocity estimation by more than 100% for data acquired. Other data from the literature also supported this empirical relation. Furthermore, the relationship between model coefficient and turbulent Reynolds number was also investigated. In addition to physical control of gas exchange, the disturbance on near surface hydrodynamics by the FC was also discussed. Turbulent dissipation rates are enhanced at the short distance away from the interface, while the surface dissipation rates do not change significantly.

Removal of Surface-Reflected Light for the Measurement of Remote-Sensing Reflectance from an Above-Surface Platform

DTIC Science & Technology

2010-12-06

raw data). To remove surface-reflected light in field measurements of remote sensing reflectance, a spectral optimization approach was applied, with...results compared with those from remote - sensing models and from direct measurements. The agreement from different determinations suggests that...reasonable results for remote sensing reflectance of clear blue water to turbid brown water are obtainable from above-surface measurements, even under conditions of high waves.

Experimental study of temporal evolution of waves under transient wind conditions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zavadsky, Andrey; Shemer, Lev

2016-11-01

Temporal variation of the waves excited by nearly sudden wind forcing over an initially still water surface is studied in a small wind-wave flume at Tel Aviv University for variety of fetches and wind velocities. Simultaneous measurements of the surface elevation using a conventional capacitance wave-gauge and of the surface slope in along-wind and cross-wind directions by a laser slope gauge were performed. Variation with time of two components of instantaneous surface velocity was measured by particle tracking velocimetry. The size of the experimental facility and thus relatively short characteristic time scales of the phenomena under investigation, as well as an automated experimental procedure controlling the experiments made it possible to record a large amount of independent realizations for each wind-fetch condition. Sufficient data were accumulated to compute reliable ensemble averaged temporal variation of governing wave parameters. The essentially three-dimensional structure of wind-waves at all stages of evolution is demonstrated. The results obtained at each wind-fetch condition allowed to characterize the major stages of the evolution of the wind-wave field and to suggest a plausible scenario for the initial growth of the wind-waves.

Stereo Refractive Imaging of Breaking Free-Surface Waves in the Surf Zone

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Mandel, Tracy; Weitzman, Joel; Koseff, Jeffrey; Environmental Fluid Mechanics Laboratory Team

2014-11-01

Ocean waves drive the evolution of coastlines across the globe. Wave breaking suspends sediments, while wave run-up, run-down, and the undertow transport this sediment across the shore. Complex bathymetric features and natural biotic communities can influence all of these dynamics, and provide protection against erosion and flooding. However, our knowledge of the exact mechanisms by which this occurs, and how they can be modeled and parameterized, is limited. We have conducted a series of controlled laboratory experiments with the goal of elucidating these details. These have focused on quantifying the spatially-varying characteristics of breaking waves and developing more accurate techniques for measuring and predicting wave setup, setdown, and run-up. Using dynamic refraction stereo imaging, data on free-surface slope and height can be obtained over an entire plane. Wave evolution is thus obtained with high spatial precision. These surface features are compared with measures of instantaneous turbulence and mean currents within the water column. We then use this newly-developed ability to resolve three-dimensional surface features over a canopy of seagrass mimics, in order to validate theoretical formulations of wave-vegetation interactions in the surf zone.

Bedforms induced by solitary waves: laboratory studies on generation and migration rate

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

la Forgia, Giovanni; Adduce, Claudia; Falcini, Federico; Paola, Chris

2017-04-01

This study presents experiments on the formation of sandy bedforms, produced by surface solitary waves (SSWs) in shallow water conditions. The experiments were carried out in a 12.0 m long, 0.15 m wide and 0.5 m high flume, at Saint Anthony Falls Laboratory in Minneapolis. The tank is filled by fresh water and a removable gate, placed at the left hand-side of the tank, divides the flume in two regions: the lock region and the ambient fluid region. The standard lock-release method generates SSWs by producing a displacement between the free surfaces that are divided by the gate. Wave amplitude, wavelength, and celerity depend on the lock length and on the water level difference between the two regions. Natural sand particles (D50=0.64) are arranged on the bottom in order to form a horizontal flat layer with a thickness of 2 cm. A digital pressure gauge and a high-resolution acoustic velocimeter allowed us to measure, locally, both pressure and 3D water velocity induced on the bottom by each wave. Image analysis technique is then used to obtain the main wave features: amplitude, wavelength, and celerity. Dye is finally used as vertical tracer to mark the horizontal speed induced by the wave. For each experiment we generated 400 waves, having the same features and we analyzed their action on sand particles placed on the bottom. The stroke, induced by each wave, entails a shear stress on the sand particles, causing sediment transport in the direction of wave propagation. Immediately after the wave passage, a back flow occurs near the bottom. The horizontal pressure gradient and the velocity field induced by the wave cause the boundary layer separation and the consequent reverse flow. Depending on the wave features and on the water depth, the boundary shear stress induced by the reverse flow can exceed the critical value inducing the back motion of the sand particles. The experiments show that the particle back motion is localized at particular cross sections along the tank, where the wave steepening occur. For this reason, the pressure and velocity measures were collected in several cross sections along the tank. The propagation of consecutive waves with the same features induces the generation of erosion and accumulation zones, which slowly evolve in isometric bedforms.

Classical and Non-Classical Regimes of the Limited-Fetch Wave Growth and Localized Structures on the Surface of Water

DTIC Science & Technology

2013-09-30

specifying the wave-maker driving signal . The short intense envelope solitons possess vertical asymmetry similar to regular Stokes waves with the same...presented in [P1], [P2]. 2. Physical model of sea wave period from altimeter data We use the asymptotic theory of wind wave growth proposed in [R6...relationship can be used for processing altimeter data assuming the wave field to be stationary and spatially inhomogeneous. It is consistent with

Internal solitary waves on the Saya de Malha bank of the Mascarene Plateau: SAR observations and interpretation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

New, A. L.; Magalhaes, J. M.; da Silva, J. C. B.

2013-09-01

Energetic Internal Solitary Waves (ISWs) were recently discovered radiating from the central region of the Mascarene Plateau in the south-western Indian Ocean (da Silva et al., 2011). SAR imagery revealed the two-dimensional structure of the waves which propagated for several hundred kilometres in deep water both to the east and west of a sill, located near 12.5°S, 61°E between the Saya de Malha and Nazareth banks. These waves were presumed to originate from the disintegration of a large lee wave formed on the western side of the sill at the time of maximum barotropic flow to the west. In the present paper we focus instead on ISWs propagating in the shallow water above the Saya da Malha (SM) bank (to the north of the sill), rather than on those propagating in deep water (here denominated as type-I or -II waves if propagating to the west or east respectively). Analysis of an extended SAR image dataset reveals strong sea surface signatures of complex patterns of ISWs propagating over the SM bank arising from different sources. We identify three distinct types of waves, and propose suitable generation mechanisms for them using synergy from different remotely sensed datasets, together with analyses of linear phase speeds (resulting from local stratification and bathymetry). In particular, we find a family of ISWs (termed here A-type waves) which results from the disintegration of a lee wave which forms on the western slopes of SM. We also identify two further wave trains (B- and C-type waves) which we suggest result from refraction of the deep water type-I and -II waves onto the SM bank. Therefore, both B- and C-type waves can be considered to result from the same generation source as the type-I and -II waves. Finally, we consider the implications of the ISWs for mixing and biological production over the SM bank, and provide direct evidence, from ocean colour satellite images, of enhanced surface chlorophyll over a shallow topographic feature on the bank, which is consistent with the breaking of the ISWs.

Coastal loading and transport of Escherichia coli at an embayed beach in Lake Michigan

USGS Publications Warehouse

Ge, Z.; Nevers, M.B.; Schwab, D.J.; Whitman, R.L.

2010-01-01

A Chicago beach in southwest Lake Michigan was revisited to determine the influence of nearshore hydrodynamic effects on the variability of Escherichia coli (E. coli) concentration in both knee-deep and offshore waters. Explanatory variables that could be used for identifying potential bacteria loading mechanisms, such as bed shear stress due to a combined wave-current boundary layer and wave runup on the beach surface, were derived from an existing wave and current database. The derived hydrodynamic variables, along with the actual observed E. coli concentrations in the submerged and foreshore sands, were expected to reveal bacteria loading through nearshore sediment resuspension and swash on the beach surface, respectively. Based on the observation that onshore waves tend to result in a more active hydrodynamic system at this embayed beach, multiple linear regression analysis of onshore-wave cases further indicated the significance of sediment resuspension and the interaction of swash with gull-droppings in explaining the variability of E. coli concentration in the knee-deep water. For cases with longshore currents, numerical simulations using the Princeton Ocean Model revealed current circulation patterns inside the embayment, which can effectively entrain bacteria from the swash zone into the central area of the embayed beach water and eventually release them out of the embayment. The embayed circulation patterns are consistent with the statistical results that identified that 1) the submerged sediment was an additional net source of E. coli to the offshore water and 2) variability of E. coli concentration in the knee-deep water contributed adversely to that in the offshore water for longshore-current cases. The embayed beach setting and the statistical and numerical methods used in the present study have wide applicability for analyzing recreational water quality at similar marine and freshwater sites. ?? 2010 American Chemical Society.

Characteristics of inertial currents observed in offshore wave records

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gemmrich, J.; Garrett, C.

2012-04-01

It is well known that ambient currents can change the amplitude, direction and frequency of ocean surface waves. Regions with persistent strong currents, such as the Agulhas current off the east coast of South Africa, are known as areas of extreme waves, and wave height modulations of up to 50% observed in the shallow North Sea have been linked to tidal currents. In the open ocean, inertial currents, while intermittent, are typically the most energetic currents with speeds up to 0.5 m/s, and can interact with the surface wave field to create wave modulation, though this has not previously been reported. We use long records of significant wave heights from buoy observations in the northeast Pacific and show evidence of significant modulation at frequencies that are slightly higher than the local inertial frequency. Quite apart from the relevance to surface waves, this result can provide a consistent and independent measurement, over a wide range of latitudes, of the frequency blue-shift, the strength and intermittency of ocean surface inertial currents. Near-inertial waves constitute the most energetic portion of the internal wave band and play a significant role in deep ocean mixing. So far, observational data on near-surface inertial currents has tended to come from short records that do not permit the reliable determination of the frequency blue-shift, though this is an important factor affecting the energy flux from the surface into deeper waters. Long records from routine wave height observations are widely available and could help to shed new light globally on the blue-shift and on the characteristics of inertial currents.

Importance of Antecedent Beach and Surf-Zone Morphology to Wave Runup Predictions

DTIC Science & Technology

2016-10-01

position on the dune, the laser reflects well off of the water surface when foam is present (blue dots, Figure 1B). Maximum range of measurement...depends upon the amount of breaking and foam present in the surf-zone at any given time, but rarely exceeds 150 m for this laser scanner. Drawbacks to...determined by reverse-shoaling data from the FRF’s 11 m Acoustic Wave and Current (AWAC) profiler to deep water values. Local water levels (tide and surge

Appendix D: Use of wave scenarios to assess potential submerged oil mat (SOM) formation along the coast of Florida and Alabama

USGS Publications Warehouse

Dalyander, P. Soupy; Long, Joseph W.; Plant, Nathaniel G.; Thompson, David M.

2013-01-01

During the Deepwater Horizon oil spill, oil in the surf zone mixed with sediment in the surf zone to form heavier-than-water sediment oil agglomerates of various size, ranging from small (cm-scale) pieces (surface residual balls, SRBs) to large mats (100-m scale, surface residue mats, SR mats). Once SR mats formed in the nearshore or in the intertidal zone, they may have become buried by sand moving onshore or alongshore. To assist in locating possible sites of buried oil, wave scenarios previously developed by the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) were used to determine the depths at which surface oil had the potential to mix with suspended sediment. For sediment to mix with floating oil and form an agglomerate of sufficient density to sink to the seafloor, either the water must be very shallow (e.g., within the swash zone) or sediment must be suspended to the water surface in sufficient concentrations to create a denser-than-sea water agglomerate. The focus of this study is to analyze suspended sediment mixing with surface oil in depths beyond the swash zone, in order to define the seaward limit of mat formation. A theoretical investigation of sediment dynamics in the nearshore zone revealed that non-breaking waves do not suspend enough sediment to the surface to form sinking sand/oil agglomerates. For this study, it was assumed that the cross-shore distribution of potential agglomerate formation is associated with the primary breaker line, and the presence of plunging breakers, over the time frame of oiling. The potential locations of submerged oil mats (SOMs) are sites where (1) possible agglomerate formation occurred, where (2) sediment accreted post-oiling and buried the SOM, and where (3) the bathymetry has not subsequently eroded to re-expose any mat that may have formed at that site. To facilitate identification of these locations, the range of water level variation over the time frame of oiling was also prescribed, which combined with the wave-breaking depth analysis and pre-oiling bathymetry would identify the potential geographic locations of SOMs.

Sound wave energy emitted by water drop during the splash on the soil surface

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bieganowski, Andrzej; Ryżak, Magdalena; Korbiel, Tomasz

2017-04-01

A drop of rain falling on the surface of bare soil not only moisturizes but also can cause splash or compaction, depending on the energy of incident drops and the condition of the surface on which it falls. The splash phenomenon can be characterized by the weight of detached soil material (using splash cups) as well as the number and trajectory of splashed particles (using high-speed cameras). The study presents a new aspect of the analysis of the splash phenomenon by measurement of the sound pressure level and the sound energy of the wave that propagates in the air. The measurements were carried out in an anechoic chamber. Three soils (Endogleyic Umbrisol, Fluvic Endogleyic Cambisol, and Haplic Chernozem) with four initial moisture levels (pressure heads: 0.1 kPa, 1 kPa, 3.16 kPa, and 16 kPa) were tested. Drops of 4.2 mm diameter were falling from a height of 1.5m. The sound pressure level was recorded after 10 consecutive water drop impacts using a special set of microphones. In all measuring conditions with 1m distance, the sound pressure level ranged from 27 to 42dB. The impact of water drops on the ground created sound pulses, which were recalculated to the energy emitted in the form of sound waves. For all soil samples, the sound wave energy was within the range of 0.14 μJ to 5.26 μJ, which corresponds to 0.03-1.07% of the energy of the incident drops (Ryżak et al., 2016). This work was partly financed from the National Science Centre, Poland; project no. 2014/14/E/ST10/00851. References Ryżak M., Bieganowski A., Korbiel T.: Sound wave Energy resulting from the impact of water drops on the soil surface. PLoS One 11(7):e0158472. doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0158472, 2016

Escape jumping by three age-classes of water striders from smooth, wavy and bubbling water surfaces.

PubMed

Ortega-Jimenez, Victor Manuel; von Rabenau, Lisa; Dudley, Robert

2017-08-01

Surface roughness is a ubiquitous phenomenon in both oceanic and terrestrial waters. For insects that live at the air-water interface, such as water striders, non-linear and multi-scale perturbations produce dynamic surface deformations which may impair locomotion. We studied escape jumps of adults, juveniles and first-instar larvae of the water strider Aquarius remigis on smooth, wave-dominated and bubble-dominated water surfaces. Effects of substrate on takeoff jumps were substantial, with significant reductions in takeoff angles, peak translational speeds, attained heights and power expenditure on more perturbed water surfaces. Age effects were similarly pronounced, with the first-instar larvae experiencing the greatest degradation in performance; age-by-treatment effects were also significant for many kinematic variables. Although commonplace in nature, perturbed water surfaces thus have significant and age-dependent effects on water strider locomotion, and on behavior more generally of surface-dwelling insects. © 2017. Published by The Company of Biologists Ltd.

Measurements of Wave Power in Wave Energy Converter Effectiveness Evaluation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Berins, J.; Berins, J.; Kalnacs, A.

2017-08-01

The article is devoted to the technical solution of alternative budget measuring equipment of the water surface gravity wave oscillation and the theoretical justification of the calculated oscillation power. This solution combines technologies such as lasers, WEB-camera image digital processing, interpolation of defined function at irregular intervals, volatility of discrete Fourier transformation for calculating the spectrum.

Interaction of Sound with Sound by Novel Mechanisms: Ultrasonic Four-Wave Mixing Mediated by a Suspension and Ultrasonic Three-Wave Mixing at a Free Surface

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Simpson, Harry Jay

Two mechanisms of sound interacting with sound are experimentally and theoretically investigated. Ultrasonic four-wave mixing in a dilute particle suspension, analogous to optical four-wave mixing in photorefractive materials, involves the interaction of three ultrasonic wavefields that produces a fourth scattered wavefield. The experimental configuration consists of two ultrasonic (800 kHz) pump waves that are used to produce a grating in a suspension of 25 μm diameter polymer particles in salt water. The pump waves are counter-propagating, which form a standing wavefield in the suspension and the less compressible particles are attracted to the pressure nodes in response to the time averaged radiation pressure. A higher frequency (2-10 MHz) ultrasonic wavefield is used to probe the resulting grating. The ultrasonic Bragg scattering is then measured. The scattering depends strongly on the response to the pump wave and is an unusual class of acoustical nonlinearity. Investigation of very small amplitude gratings are done by studying the temporal response of the Bragg scattering to a sudden turn on of a moderate amplitude pump wavefield in a previously homogeneous particle suspension. The Bragg scattering has been verified experimentally and is modeled for early-time grating formations using a sinusoidal grating. The larger amplitude gratings are studied in equilibrium and are modeled using an Epstein layer approximation. Ultrasonic three-wave mixing at a free surface involves the interaction of a high amplitude 400 kHz plane wavefield incident at 33^circ on a water-air interface with a normally incident high frequency (4.6 MHz) focused wavefield. The 400 kHz "pump" wavefield reflects from the surface and produces an oscillating surface displacement that forms a local traveling phase grating. Simultaneously the 4.6 MHz "probe" wavefield is reflected from the free surface. The grating scatters the focused probe wavefield and produces (or contributes to) spatially and Doppler shifted foci relative to the main focus.

Interaction of sound with sound by novel mechanisms: Ultrasonic four-wave mixing mediated by a suspension and ultrasonic three-wave mixing at a free surface

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Simpson, Harry Jay

Two mechanisms of sound interacting with sound are experimentally and theoretically investigated. Ultrasonic four-wave mixing in a dilute particle suspension, analogous to optical four-wave mixing in photorefractive materials, involves the interaction of three ultrasonic wavefields that produces a fourth scattered wavefield. The experimental configuration consists of two ultrasonic (800 kHz) pump waves that are used to produce a grating in a suspension of 25 micron diameter polymer particles in salt water. The pump waves are counter-propagating, which form a standing wavefield in the suspension and the less compressible particles are attracted to the pressure nodes in response to the time averaged radiation pressure. A higher frequency (2 to 10 MHz) ultrasonic wavefield is used to probe the resulting grating. The ultrasonic Bragg scattering is then measured. The scattering depends strongly on the response to the pump wave and is an unusual class of acoustical nonlinearity. Investigation of very small amplitude gratings are done by studying the temporal response of the Bragg scattering to a sudden turn on of a moderate amplitude pump wavefield in a previously homogeneous particle suspension. The Bragg scattering has been verified experimentally and is modeled for early-time grating formations using a sinusoidal grating. The larger amplitude gratings are studied in equilibrium and are modeled using an Epstein layer approximation. Ultrasonic three-wave mixing at a free surface involves the interaction of a high amplitude 400 kHz plane wavefield incident at 33 degrees on a water-air interface with a normally incident high frequency (4.6 MHz) focused wavefield. The 400 kHz 'pump' wavefield reflects from the surface and produces an oscillating surface displacement that forms a local traveling phase grating. Simultaneously the 4.6 MHz 'probe' wavefield is reflected from the free surface. The grating scatters the focused probe wavefield and produces (or contributes to) spatially and Doppler shifted foci relative to the main focus.

The Influence of Surface Gravity Waves on Marine Current Turbine Performance

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lust, E.; Luznik, L.; Flack, K. A.; Walker, J.; Van Benthem, M.

2013-12-01

Surface gravity waves can significantly impact operating conditions for a marine current turbine, imparting unsteady velocities several orders of magnitude larger than the ambient turbulence. The influence of surface waves on the performance characteristics of a two-bladed horizontal axis marine current turbine was investigated experimentally in a large towing tank facility at the United States Naval Academy. The turbine model had a 0.8 m diameter (D) rotor with a NACA 63-618 cross section, which is Reynolds number independent with respect to lift coefficient in the operating range of Rec ≈ 4 x 105. The torque, thrust and rotational speed were measured at a range of tip speed ratios (TSR) from 5 < TSR < 11. Tests were performed at two rotor depths (1.3D and 2.25D) with and without waves. The average turbine performance characteristics were largely unchanged by depth or the presence of waves. However, tests with waves indicate large variations in thrust, rotational speed, and torque occurred with the passage of the wave. These results demonstrate the impact of surface gravity waves on power production and structural loading and suggest that turbines should be positioned vertically within the water column at a depth which maximizes power output while minimizing material fatigue. Keywords-- marine current turbine, tidal turbine, towing-tank experiments, surface gravity waves, fatigue loading, phase averaging

Tidal-Induced Ocean Dynamics as Cause of Enceladus' Tiger Stripe Pattern

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Vermeersen, B. L.; Maas, L. R.; van Oers, S.; Rabitti, A.; Jara-Orue, H.

2013-12-01

One of the most peculiar features on Saturn moon Enceladus is its so-called tiger stripe pattern at the geologically active South Polar Terrain (SPT), as first observed in detail by the Cassini spacecraft early 2005. It is generally assumed that the four almost parallel surface lines that constitute this pattern are faults in the icy surface overlying a confined salty water reservoir. Indeed, later Cassini observations have shown that salty water jets originate from the tiger stripes [e.g., Hansen et al., Science, 311, 1422-1425, 2006; Postberg et al., Nature, 474, 620-622, 2011]. The periodic activity of the tiger stripe faults shows a strong correlation with tidal forcing. Jets emanating from specific fault lines seem to be triggered at those places of the faults where tidal-induced stresses are largest immediately following closest orbital approach with Saturn [e.g., Hurford et al., Nature, 447, 292-294, 2007]. Thus jet activity seems to be directly induced by tidal forcing. However, this does not explain the characteristic regular pattern of the stripes themselves. Here we explore the possibility that this pattern is formed and maintained by induced, tidally and rotationally driven, fluid motions in the ocean underneath the icy surface of the tiger-stripe region. The remarkable spatial regularity of Enceladus' SPT fault lines is reminiscent of that observed at the surface of confined density-stratified fluids by the action of induced internal gravity waves. Theoretical analysis, numerical simulations and laboratory water tank experiments all indicate that wave attractors - particular limit orbits to which waves are focused in a fluid basin - naturally emerge in gravitationally (radial salt concentration or temperature differences) or rotationally stratified confined fluids as a function of forcing periodicity and fluid basin geometry [Maas et al., Nature, 338, 557-561, 1997]. We have found that ocean dynamical wave attractors induced by tidal-effective forcing of Enceladus' SPT salty water basin can reproduce the general characteristics of the observed tiger stripe pattern and even offer the possibility of constraining the 3D-form of the salty water basin underlying Enceladus' SPT. Vertical cross section of one of the water tank experiments. The tank is uniformly stratified with salty water and harmonically shaken. Wave attractors impinge at the surface of the tank at A, B and C, which are places where an overlying plate experiences enhanced stress levels. Distances A-B and B-C are not the same due to a sloping floor of the fluid tank. The length of the tank is about 1.5 m. Numbers at the bottom indicate mm.

The flow of a thin liquid film on a stationary and rotating disk. I - Experimental analysis and flow visualization

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Thomas, S.; Faghri, A.; Hankey, W.

1990-01-01

The mean thickness of a thin liquid film of deionized water with a free surface on a stationary and rotating horizontal disk has been measured with a nonobtrusive capacitance technique. The measurements were taken when the rotational speed was 0-300 RPM and the flow rate was 7.0-15.0 LPM. A flow visualization study of the thin film was also performed to determine the characteristics of the waves on the free surface. When the disk was stationary, a circular hydraulic jump was present on the disk. Surface waves were found in the supercritical and subcritical regions at all flow rates studied. When the rotational speed of the disk is low, a standing wave at the edge of the disk was present. As the rotational speed increased, the surface waves changed from the wavy-laminar region to a region in which the waves ran nearly radially across the disk on top of a thin substrate of fluid.

Transport Theory for Propagation and Reverberation

DTIC Science & Technology

2016-07-20

mentioned that our transport theory method is essentially 2-D (range and depth), so that out-of- plane forward scattering (a 3-D effect) is not treated...roughness spectrum, it is useful to consider scattering based on perturbation theory in some detail with a plane wave incident on the rough surface. The...the wave vector for the water wave. Let an incident acoustic plane wave have wave vector ki = kiH + kiz, where kiH denotes the horizontal component

AKNS eigenvalue spectrum for densely spaced envelope solitary waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Slunyaev, Alexey; Starobor, Alexey

2010-05-01

The problem of the influence of one envelope soliton to the discrete eigenvalues of the associated scattering problem for the other envelope soliton, which is situated close to the first one, is discussed. Envelope solitons are exact solutions of the integrable nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLS). Their generalizations (taking into account the background nonlinear waves [1-4] or strongly nonlinear effects [5, 6]) are possible candidates to rogue waves in the ocean. The envelope solitary waves could be in principle detected in the stochastic wave field by approaches based on the Inverse Scattering Technique in terms of ‘unstable modes' (see [1-3]), or envelope solitons [7-8]. However, densely spaced intense groups influence the spectrum of the associated scattering problem, so that the solitary trains cannot be considered alone. Here we solve the initial-value problem exactly for some simplified configurations of the wave field, representing two closely placed intense wave groups, within the frameworks of the NLS equation by virtue of the solution of the AKNS system [9]. We show that the analogues of the level splitting and the tunneling effects, known in quantum physics, exist in the context of the NLS equation, and thus may be observed in application to sea waves [10]. These effects make the detecting of single solitary wave groups surrounded by other nonlinear wave groups difficult. [1]. A.L. Islas, C.M. Schober (2005) Predicting rogue waves in random oceanic sea states. Phys. Fluids 17, 031701-1-4. [2]. A.R. Osborne, M. Onorato, M. Serio (2005) Nonlinear Fourier analysis of deep-water random surface waves: Theoretical formulation and and experimental observations of rogue waves. 14th Aha Huliko's Winter Workshop, Honolulu, Hawaii. [3]. C.M. Schober, A. Calini (2008) Rogue waves in higher order nonlinear Schrödinger models. In: Extreme Waves (Eds.: E. Pelinovsky & C. Kharif), Springer. [4]. N. Akhmediev, A. Ankiewicz, M. Taki (2009) Waves that appear from nowhere and disappear without a trace. Phys. Lett. A 373, 675-678. [5]. A.I. Dyachenko, V.E. Zakharov (2008) On the formation of freak waves on the surface of deep water. JETP Lett. 88 (5), 307-311. [6]. A.V. Slunyaev (2009) Numerical simulation of "limiting" envelope solitons of gravity waves on deep water. JETP 109, 676-686. [7]. A. Slunyaev, E. Pelinovsky, and C. Guedes Soares (2005) Modeling freak waves from the North Sea. Appl. Ocean Res. 27, 12-22. [8]. A. Slunyaev (2006) Nonlinear analysis and simulations of measured freak wave time series. Eur. J. Mech. B / Fluids 25, 621-635. [9]. M.J. Ablowitz, D.J. Kaup, A.C. Newell, H. Segur (1974) The inverse scattering transform - Fourier analysis for nonlinear problems. Stud. Appl. Math. 53, 249-315. [10]. A.V. Starobor (2009) Interpretation of the inverse scattering data for the analysis of wave groups on water surface. Bachelor degree thesis. N. Novgorod State University, in Russian.

Acoustic Gravity Waves Generated by an Oscillating Ice Sheet in Arctic Zone

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Abdolali, A.; Kadri, U.; Kirby, J. T., Jr.

2016-12-01

We investigate the formation of acoustic-gravity waves due to oscillations of large ice blocks, possibly triggered by atmospheric and ocean currents, ice block shrinkage or storms and ice-quakes.For the idealized case of a homogeneous weakly compressible water bounded at the surface by ice sheet and a rigid bed, the description of the infinite family of acoustic modes is characterized by the water depth h and angular frequency of oscillating ice sheet ω ; The acoustic wave field is governed by the leading mode given by: Nmax=\\floor {(ω h)/(π c)} where c is the sound speed in water and the special brackets represent the floor function (Fig1). Unlike the free-surface setting, the higher acoustic modes might exhibit a larger contribution and therefore all progressive acoustic modes have to be considered.This study focuses on the characteristics of acoustic-gravity waves generated by an oscillating elastic ice sheet in a weakly compressible fluid coupled with a free surface model [Abdolali et al. 2015] representing shrinking ice blocks in realistic sea state, where the randomly oriented ice sheets cause inter modal transition and multidirectional reflections. A theoretical solution and a 3D numerical model have been developed for the study purposes. The model is first validated against the theoretical solution [Kadri, 2016]. To overcome the computational difficulties of 3D models, we derive a depth-integrated equation valid for spatially varying ice sheet thickness and water depth. We show that the generated acoustic-gravity waves contribute significantly to deep ocean currents compared to other mechanisms. In addition, these waves travel at the sound speed in water carrying information on ice sheet motion, providing various implications for ocean monitoring and detection of ice-quakes. Fig1:Snapshots of dynamic pressure given by an oscillating ice sheet; h=4500m, c=1500m/s, semi-length b=10km, ζ =1m, omega=π rad/s. Abdolali, A., Kirby, J. T. and Bellotti, G., 2015, Depth-integrated equation for hydro-acoustic waves with bottom damping, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 766, R1 doi:10.1017/jfm.2015.37 Kadri, U., 2016, Generation of Hydroacoustic Waves by an Oscillating Ice Block in Arctic Zones, Advances in Acoustics and Vibration. 2016. doi:10.1155/2016/8076108

Observation of skull-guided acoustic waves in a water-immersed murine skull using optoacoustic excitation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Estrada, Héctor; Rebling, Johannes; Razansky, Daniel

2017-02-01

The skull bone, a curved solid multilayered plate protecting the brain, constitutes a big challenge for the use of ultrasound-mediated techniques in neuroscience. Ultrasound waves incident from water or soft biological tissue are mostly reflected when impinging on the skull. To this end, skull properties have been characterized for both high-intensity focused ultrasound (HIFU) operating in the narrowband far-field regime and optoacoustic imaging applications. Yet, no study has been conducted to characterize the near-field of water immersed skulls. We used the thermoelastic effect with a 532 nm pulsed laser to trigger a wide range of broad-band ultrasound modes in a mouse skull. In order to capture the waves propagating in the near-field, a thin hydrophone was scanned in close proximity to the skull's surface. While Leaky pseudo-Lamb waves and grazing-angle bulk water waves are clearly visible in the spatio-temporal data, we were only able to identify skull-guided acoustic waves after dispersion analysis in the wavenumber-frequency space. The experimental data was found to be in a reasonable agreement with a flat multilayered plate model.

Observation of Mountain Lee Waves with MODIS NIR Column Water Vapor

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Lyapustin, A.; Alexander, M. J.; Ott, L.; Molod, A.; Holben, B.; Susskind, J.; Wang, Y.

2014-01-01

Mountain lee waves have been previously observed in data from the Moderate Resolution Imaging Spectroradiometer (MODIS) "water vapor" 6.7 micrometers channel which has a typical peak sensitivity at 550 hPa in the free troposphere. This paper reports the first observation of mountain waves generated by the Appalachian Mountains in the MODIS total column water vapor (CWV) product derived from near-infrared (NIR) (0.94 micrometers) measurements, which indicate perturbations very close to the surface. The CWV waves are usually observed during spring and late fall or some summer days with low to moderate CWV (below is approx. 2 cm). The observed lee waves display wavelengths from3-4 to 15kmwith an amplitude of variation often comparable to is approx. 50-70% of the total CWV. Since the bulk of atmospheric water vapor is confined to the boundary layer, this indicates that the impact of thesewaves extends deep into the boundary layer, and these may be the lowest level signatures of mountain lee waves presently detected by remote sensing over the land.

Slide-induced waves, seiching and ground fracturing caused by the earthquake of March 27, 1964 at Kenai Lake, Alaska: Chapter A in The Alaska earthquake, March 27, 1964: regional effects

USGS Publications Warehouse

McCulloch, David S.

1966-01-01

The March 27, 1964, earthquake dislodged slides from nine deltas in Kenai Lake, south-central Alaska. Sliding removed protruding parts of deltas-often the youngest parts-and steepened delta fronts, increasing the chances of further sliding. Fathograms show that debris from large slides spread widely over the lake floor, some reaching the toe of the opposite shore; at one place debris traveled 5,000 feet over the horizontal lake floor. Slides generated two kinds of local waves: a backfill and far-shore wave. Backfill waves were formed by water that rushed toward the delta to fill the void left by the sinking slide mass, overtopped the slide scrap, and came ashore over the delta. Some backfill waves had runup heights of 30 feet and ran inland more than 300 feet, uprooting and breaking off large trees. Far-shore waves hit the shore opposite the slides. They were formed by slide debris that crossed the lake floor and forced water ahead of it, which then ran up the opposite slope, burst above the lake surface, and struck the shore. One far-shore wave had a runup height of 72 feet. Kenai Lake was tilted and seiched; a power spectrum analysis of a limnogram shows a wave having the period of the calculated uninodal seiche (36 minutes) and several shorter period waves. In constricted and shallow reaches, waves caused by seiching had 20- and 30-foot runup heights. Deep lateral spreading of sediments toward delta margins displaced deeply driven railroad-bridge piles, and set up stress fields in the surface sediments which resulted in the formation of many shear and some tension fractures on the surface of two deltas.

Variability in benthic exchange rate, depth, and residence time beneath a shallow coastal estuary

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Russoniello, C. J.; Michael, H. A.; Heiss, J.

2017-12-01

Hydrodynamically-driven exchange of water between the water column and shallow seabed aquifer, benthic exchange, is a significant and dynamic component of coastal and estuarine fluid budgets, but wave-induced benthic exchange has not been measured in the field. Mixing between surface water and groundwater solutes promotes ecologically important chemical reactions, so quantifying benthic exchange rates, depths, and residence times, constrains estimates of coastal chemical cycling. In this study, we present the first field-based direct measurements of wave-induced exchange and compare it to exchange induced by the other primary drivers of exchange - tides, and currents. We deployed instruments in a shallow estuary to measure benthic exchange and temporal variability over an 11-day period. Differential pressure sensors recorded pressure gradients across the seabed, and up-and down-looking ADCPs recorded currents and pressures from which wave parameters, surface-water currents, and water depth were determined. Wave-induced exchange was calculated directly from 1) differential pressure measurements, and indirectly with an analytical solution based on wave parameters from 2) ADCP and 3) weather station data. Groundwater flow models were used to assess the effects of aquifer properties on benthic exchange depth and residence time. Benthic exchange driven by tidal pumping or current-bedform interaction was calculated from tidal stage variation and from ADCP-measured currents at the bed, respectively. Waves were the primary benthic exchange driver (average = 20.0 cm/d, maximum = 92.3 cm/d) during the measurement period. Benthic exchange due to tides (average = 3.7 cm/d) and current-bedform interaction (average = 6.5x10-2 cm/d) was much lower. Wave-induced exchange calculated from pressure measurements and ADCP-measured wave parameters matched well, but wind-based rates underestimated wave energy and exchange. Groundwater models showed that residence time and depth increased in high-permeability, incompressible aquifers, and exchange rates increased in low-permeability, compressible aquifers. These findings support and extend the utility of existing wave-induced exchange solutions and will help managers assess the importance of benthic exchange on coastal chemical cycling.

The influence of surface waves on water circulation in a mid-Atlantic continental shelf region

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Whitlock, C. H.; Talay, T. A.

1974-01-01

The importance of wave-induced currents in different weather conditions and water depths (18.3 m and 36.6 m) is assessed in a mid-Atlantic continental-shelf region. A review of general circulation conditions is conducted. Factors which perturb the general circulation are examined using analytic techniques and limited experimental data. Actual wind and wave statistics for the region are examined. Relative magnitudes of the various currents are compared on a frequency of annual occurrence basis. Results indicated that wave-induced currents are often the same order of magnitude as other currents in the region and become more important at higher wind and wave conditions. Wind-wave and ocean-swell characteristics are among those parameters which must be monitored for the analytical computation of continental-shelf circulation.

Measuring sea surface height with a GNSS-Wave Glider

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Morales Maqueda, Miguel Angel; Penna, Nigel T.; Foden, Peter R.; Martin, Ian; Cipollini, Paolo; Williams, Simon D.; Pugh, Jeff P.

2017-04-01

A GNSS-Wave Glider is a novel technique to measure sea surface height autonomously using the Global Navigation Satellite System (GNSS). It consists of an unmanned surface vehicle manufactured by Liquid Robotics, a Wave Glider, and a geodetic-grade GNSS antenna-receiver system, with the antenna installed on a mast on the vehicle's deck. The Wave Glider uses the differential wave motion through the water column for propulsion, thus guaranteeing an, in principle, indefinite autonomy. Solar energy is collected to power all on-board instrumentation, including the GNSS system. The GNSS-Wave Glider was first tested in Loch Ness in 2013, demonstrating that the technology is capable of mapping geoid heights within the loch with an accuracy of a few centimetres. The trial in Loch Ness did not conclusively confirm the reliability of the technique because, during the tests, the state of the water surface was much more benign than would normally be expect in the open ocean. We now report on a first deployment of a GNSS-Wave Glider in the North Sea. The deployment took place in August 2016 and lasted thirteen days, during which the vehicle covered a distance of about 350 nautical miles in the north western North Sea off Great Britain. During the experiment, the GNSS-Wave Glider experienced sea states between 1 (0-0.1 m wave heights) and 5 (2.5-4 m wave heights). The GNSS-Wave Glider data, recorded at 5 Hz frequency, were analysed using a post-processed kinematic GPS-GLONASS precise point positioning (PPP) approach, which were quality controlled using double difference GPS kinematic processing with respect to onshore reference stations. Filtered with a 900 s moving-average window, the PPP heights reveal geoid patterns in the survey area that are very similar to the EGM2008 geoid model, thus demonstrating the potential use of a GNSS-Wave Glider for marine geoid determination. The residual of subtracting the modelled or measured marine geoid from the PPP signal combines information about dynamic topography and sea state. GNSS-Wave Glider data will next be validated against concurrent and co-located satellite altimetry data from the Jason-1, Jason-2, CryoSat-2 and AltiKa missions.

Radiative transfer in the earth's atmosphere and ocean: influence of ocean waves.

PubMed

Plass, G N; Kattawar, G W; Guinn, J A

1975-08-01

The radiance in the earth's atmosphere and ocean is calculated for a realistic model including an ocean surface with waves. Individual photons are followed in a Monte Carlo calculation. In the atmosphere, both Rayleigh scattering by the molecules and Mie scattering by the aerosols as well as molecular and aerosol absorption are taken into account. Similarly, in the ocean, both Rayleigh scattering by the water molecules and Mie scattering by the hydrosols as well as absorption by the water molecules and hydrosols are considered. Separate single-scattering functions are used which are calculated separately for the aerosols and the hydrosols from the Mie theory with appropriate and different size distributions in each case. The scattering angles are determined from the appropriate scattering function including the strong forwardscattering peak when there is aerosol or hydrosol scattering. Both the reflected and refracted rays, as well as the rays that undergo total internal reflection, are followed at the oceanc surface. The wave slope is chosen from the Cox-Munk distribution. Graphs show the influence of the waves on the upward radiance at the top of the atmosphere and just above the ocean surface and on the downward radiance just below the ocean surface as well as deeper within the ocean. The radiance changes are sufficient at the top of the atmosphere to determine the sea state from satellite measurements. Within the ocean the waves smooth out the abrupt transition that occurs at the edge of the allowed cone for radiation entering a calm ocean. The influence of the waves on the contrast between the sky and sea at the horizon is discussed. It is shown that the downward flux just below the surface increases with wind speed at all solar angles.

Surface Waves as Major Controls on Particle Backscattering in Southern California Coastal Waters

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Henderikx Freitas, F.; Fields, E.; Maritorena, S.; Siegel, D.

2016-02-01

Satellite observations of particle loads and optical backscattering coefficients (bbp) in the Southern California Bight (SCB) have been thought to be driven by episodic inputs from storm runoff. Here we show however that surface waves have a larger role in controlling remotely sensed bbp values than previously considered. More than 14 years of 2-km resolution SeaWiFS, MODIS and MERIS satellite imagery spectrally-merged with the Garver-Siegel-Maritorena bio-optical model were used to assess the relative importance of terrestrial runoff and surface wave forcings in determining changes in particle load in the SCB. The space-time distributions of particle backscattering at 443nm and chlorophyll concentration estimates from the model were analyzed using Empirical Orthogonal Function analysis, and patterns were compared with several environmental variables. While offshore values of bbp are tightly related to chlorophyll concentrations, as expected for productive Case-1 waters, values of bbp in a 10km band near the coast are primarily modulated by surface waves. The relationship with waves holds throughout all seasons and is most apparent around the 40m isobath, but extends offshore until about 100m in depth. Riverine inputs are associated with elevated bbp near the coast mostly during the larger El Nino events of 1997/1998 and 2005. These findings are consistent with bio-optical glider and field observations from the Santa Barbara Channel taken as part of the Santa Barbara Coastal Long-Term Ecological Research and Plumes and Blooms programs. The implication of surface waves determining bbp variability beyond the surf zone has large consequences for the life cycle of many marine organisms, as well as for the interpretation of remote sensing signals near the coast.

Slanted snaking of localized Faraday waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Pradenas, Bastián; Araya, Isidora; Clerc, Marcel G.; Falcón, Claudio; Gandhi, Punit; Knobloch, Edgar

2017-06-01

We report on an experimental, theoretical, and numerical study of slanted snaking of spatially localized parametrically excited waves on the surface of a water-surfactant mixture in a Hele-Shaw cell. We demonstrate experimentally the presence of a hysteretic transition to spatially extended parametrically excited surface waves when the acceleration amplitude is varied, as well as the presence of spatially localized waves exhibiting slanted snaking. The latter extend outside the hysteresis loop. We attribute this behavior to the presence of a conserved quantity, the liquid volume trapped within the meniscus, and introduce a universal model based on symmetry arguments, which couples the wave amplitude with such a conserved quantity. The model captures both the observed slanted snaking and the presence of localized waves outside the hysteresis loop, as demonstrated by numerical integration of the model equations.

Waves: Internal Tides

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Ray, Richard D.

1999-01-01

Oceanic internal tides are internal waves with tidal periodicities. They are ubiquitous throughout the ocean, although generally more pronounced near large bathymetric features such as mid-ocean ridges and continental slopes. The internal vertical displacements associated with these waves can be extraordinarily large. Near some shelf breaks where the surface tides are strong, internal displacements (e.g., of an isothermal surface) can exceed 200 meters. Displacements of 10 meters in the open ocean are not uncommon. The associated current velocities are usually comparable to or larger than the currents of the surface tide. On continental shelves internal tides can occasionally generate packets of internal solitons, which are detectable in remote sensing imagery. Other common nonlinear features are generation of higher harmonics (e.g., 6-hr waves) and wave breaking. Internal tides are known to be an important energy source for mixing of shelf waters. Recent research suggests that they may also be a significant energy source for deep-ocean mixing.

Jet formation at the interaction of localized waves on the free surface of dielectric liquid in a tangential electric field

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kochurin, E. A.; Zubarev, N. M.

2018-01-01

Nonlinear dynamics of the free surface of finite depth non-conducting fluid with high dielectric constant subjected to a strong horizontal electric field is considered. Using the conformal transformation of the region occupied by the fluid into a strip, the process of interaction of counter-propagating waves is numerically simulated. The nonlinear solitary waves on the surface can separately propagate along or against the direction of electric field without distortion. At the same time, the shape of the oppositely traveling waves can be distorted as the result of their interaction. In the problem under study, the nonlinearity leads to increasing the wave amplitudes and the duration of their interaction. This effect is inversely proportional to the fluid depth. In the shallow water limit, the tendency to the formation of a vertical liquid jet is observed.

Sedimentation Waves on the Martian North Polar Cap: Analogy with Megadunes in Antarctica

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Herny, C.; Masse, M.; Bourgeois, O.; Carpy, S.; Le Mouelic, S.; Appéré, T.; Smith, I. B.; Spiga, A.; Perret, L.; Rodriguez, S.; Piquet, T.; Gaudin, D.; Le Menn, E.

2014-12-01

Complex feedbacks between katabatic winds and the cryosphere may lead to the development of sedimentation waves at the surface of ice sheets. These have been first described and named megadunes in Antarctica. Here we use topographic data, optical images, spectroscopic data and radar soundings, acquired by Mars orbiters, to show that the surface of the Martian North Polar Cap displays two superimposed sets of sedimentation waves with differing wavelengths. These sedimentation waves grow and migrate upwind in response to the development of periodic accumulation/ablation patterns controlled by katabatic winds. They have similarities with Antarctic megadunes regarding their surface morphology, texture, grain size, and internal stratigraphic architecture. Based on this analogy, we are currently developing a model of ice/wind interaction at the surface of ice sheets. In Antarctica the accumulation processes on megadunes fields is generally attributed to the wind-blown snow transport while on sedimentation waves of the North Polar Cap of Mars the accumulation seems to be dominated by sublimation/condensation processes at the surface. The model is designed to explore the implication of the water vapor mass transfer and heat transfer on the development of sedimentation waves both on Mars and Earth.

Method for nondestructive testing of the film coating behavior of surface acoustic wave (SAW) sensors

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Taslakov, M. A.; Avramov, I. D.

2010-04-01

This paper presents a practical non-destructive method for studying the film coating behavior of SAW devices by using a water soluble dielectric film (manitol) deposited on the SAW device surface by resistive evaporation. After measuring the electrical parameters of the film coated SAW device, the film can easily be removed from its surface by water rinsing without causing any damage to it. The SAW device can then be used over and over again in a large number of film depositions. The method was tested on a 1 GHz surface transverse wave (STW) resonator coated with manitol of varying thickness. After each coating and evaluation, the STW device was successfully recovered without significant performance degradation. Data is presented on the electrical changes of the STW device as a result of depositing manitol coatings of various thicknesses.

Modeling Wind Wave Evolution from Deep to Shallow Water

DTIC Science & Technology

2014-09-30

results are very promising (see Figure 2). However, for the sake of efficiency, non-hydrostatic models assume a single-valued free surface in the...1996) are ongoing. Figure 3 Smoothed-Particle Hydrodynamics ( SPH ) simulations of waves breaking over an artificial reef in the laboratory (see... surface as predicted by the SPH model (see Dalrymple & Rogers, 2006). The agreement in the breaker dynamics predicted by the model and seen in the

Frequency-depth dependent spherical reflection response from the sea surface - A transmission experiment

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wehner, D.; Landrø, M.; Amundsen, L.; Westerdahl, H.

2018-05-01

In academia and the industry, there is increasing interest in generating and recording low seismic frequencies, which lead to better data quality, deeper signal penetration and can be important for full-waveform inversion. The common marine seismic source in acquisition is the air gun which is towed behind a vessel. The frequency content of the signal produced by the air gun mainly depends on its source depth as there are two effects which are presumed to counteract each other. First, there is the oscillating air bubble generated by the air gun which leads to more low frequencies for shallow source depths. Secondly, there is the interference of the downgoing wave with the first reflection from the sea surface, referred to as the ghost, which leads to more low frequencies for deeper source depths. It is still under debate whether it is beneficial to place the source shallow or deep to generate the strongest signal for frequencies below 5 Hz. Therefore, the ghost effect is studied in more detail by measuring the transmission at the water-air interface. We conduct experiments in a water tank where a small-volume seismic source is fired at different depths below the water surface to investigate how the ghost varies with frequency and depth. The signal from the seismic source is recorded with hydrophones inside water and air during the test to estimate the transmitted signal through the interface. In a second test, we perform experiments with an acoustic source located in air which is fired at different elevations above the water surface. The source in air is a starter gun and the signals are again recorded in water and air. The measured data indicates an increasing transmission of the signal through the water-air interface when the source is closer to the water surface which leads to a decreasing reflection for sources close to the surface. The measured results are compared with modeled data and the existing theory. The observed increase in transmission for shallow source depths could be explained by the theory of a spherical wave front striking the interface instead of assuming a plane wave front. The difference can be important for frequencies below 1 Hz. The results suggest that deploying a few sources very shallow during marine seismic acquisition could be beneficial for these very low frequencies. In addition, the effect of a spherical wave front might be considered for modeling far field signatures of seismic sources for frequencies below 1 Hz.

Effect of higher order nonlinearity, directionality and finite water depth on wave statistics: Comparison of field data and numerical simulations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Fernández, Leandro; Monbaliu, Jaak; Onorato, Miguel; Toffoli, Alessandro

2014-05-01

This research is focused on the study of nonlinear evolution of irregular wave fields in water of arbitrary depth by comparing field measurements and numerical simulations.It is now well accepted that modulational instability, known as one of the main mechanisms for the formation of rogue waves, induces strong departures from Gaussian statistics. However, whereas non-Gaussian properties are remarkable when wave fields follow one direction of propagation over an infinite water depth, wave statistics only weakly deviate from Gaussianity when waves spread over a range of different directions. Over finite water depth, furthermore, wave instability attenuates overall and eventually vanishes for relative water depths as low as kh=1.36 (where k is the wavenumber of the dominant waves and h the water depth). Recent experimental results, nonetheless, seem to indicate that oblique perturbations are capable of triggering and sustaining modulational instability even if kh<1.36. In this regard, the aim of this research is to understand whether the combined effect of directionality and finite water depth has a significant effect on wave statistics and particularly on the occurrence of extremes. For this purpose, numerical experiments have been performed solving the Euler equation of motion with the Higher Order Spectral Method (HOSM) and compared with data of short crested wave fields for different sea states observed at the Lake George (Australia). A comparative analysis of the statistical properties (i.e. density function of the surface elevation and its statistical moments skewness and kurtosis) between simulations and in-situ data provides a confrontation between the numerical developments and real observations in field conditions.

Space-time properties of wind-waves: a new look at directional wave distributions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Leckler, Fabien; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Benetazzo, Alvise; Fedele, Francesco; Bergamasco, Filippo; Dulov, Vladimir

2014-05-01

Few accurate observed directional wave spectra are available in the literature at spatial scales ranging between 0.5 and 5.0 m. These intermediate wave scales, relevant for air-sea fluxes and remote sensing are also expected to feed back on the dominant wave properties through wave generation. These wave scales can be prolifically investigated using the well-known optical stereo methods that provides, from a couple of synchronized images, instantaneous representation of wave elevations over a given sea surface. Thus, two stereo systems (the so-called Wave Acquisition Stereo Systems, WASS) were deployed on top of the deep-water platform at Katsiveli, in the Black Sea, in September 2011 and 2013. From image pairs taken by the couple of synchronized high-resolution cameras, ocean surfaces have been reconstructed by stereo-triangulation. Here we analyze sea states corresponding to mean wind speeds of 11 to 14 m/s, and young wave ages of 0.35 to 0.42, associated to significant wave heights of 0.3 to 0.55m. As a result, four 12 Hz time evolutions of sea surface elevation maps with areas about 10 x 10 m2 have been obtained for sequence durations ranging between 15 and 30 minutes, and carefully validated with nearby capacitance wave gauges. The evolving free surfaces elevations were processed into frequency-wavenumber-direction 3D spectra. We found that wave energy chiefly follows the dispersion relation up to frequency of 1.6Hz and wavenumber of 10 rad/m, corresponding to wavelength of about 0.5 m. These spectra also depict well the energy contribution from non-linear waves, which is quantified and compared to theory. A strong bi-modality of the linear spectra was also observed, with the angle of the two maxima separated by about 160 degrees. Furthermore, spectra also exhibit the bimodality of the non-linear part. Integrated over positive frequencies to obtain wavenumber spectra unambiguous in direction, the bimodality of the spectra is partially hidden by the energy from second order waves, in particular from wave harmonics of the peak waves. However, the obtained spreading functions and integrals question the isotropy of the spectrum at high frequencies, generally assumed to explain deep water pressure measurement.

Investigation of the foam influence on the wind-wave momentum exchange and cross-polarization microwave radar return within laboratory modeling of atmosphere-ocean boundary layer

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Sergeev, Daniil; Troitskaya, Yuliya; Vdovin, Maxim; Ermoshkin, Alexey

2016-04-01

The effect of foam presence on the transfer processes and the parameters of the surface roughness within the laboratory simulation of wind-wave interaction was carried out on the Thermostratified Wind-Wave Tank (TSWiWaT) IAP, using a specially designed foam generator. The parameters of air flow profiles and waves elevation were measured with scanning Pitot gauge and wire wave gauges respectively in the range of equivalent wind speed U10 from 12 to 38 m/s (covering strong winds) on the clean water and with foam. It was shown that the foam reduces the amplitudes and slopes of the waves in comparison with the clean water in the hole range of wind speeds investigated, and the peak frequency and wave numbers remain almost constant. The drag coefficient calculating by profiling method demonstrated similar behavior (almost independent on U10) for case of foam and increased compared with clear water, particularly noticeable for low wind speeds. Simultaneously the investigations of influence of the foam on the peculiarity of the microwave radio back scattering of X-diapason was investigated. These measurements were carried for different sensing angles (30, 40 i 50 degrees from vertical) and for four polarizations: co-polarized HH and VV, and de-polarized HV and VH. It was shown that foam leads to decrease of specific radar cross section of the wavy surface in comparison with clean water. The work was supported by the Russian Foundation for Basic Research (grants No. 15-35-20953, 14-05-00367, 16-55-52022) and project ASIST of FP7. The experiment is supported by Russian Science Foundation (Agreement No. 15-17-20009), radilocation measurments are partially supported by Russian Science Foundation (Agreement No. 14-17-00667).

Viscoelastic love-type surface waves

USGS Publications Warehouse

Borcherdt, Roger D.

2008-01-01

The general theoretical solution for Love-Type surface waves in viscoelastic media provides theoreticalexpressions for the physical characteristics of the waves in elastic as well as anelastic media with arbitraryamounts of intrinsic damping. The general solution yields dispersion and absorption-coefficient curves for the waves as a function of frequency and theamount of intrinsic damping for any chosen viscoelastic model.Numerical results valid for a variety of viscoelastic models provide quantitative estimates of the physicalcharacteristics of the waves pertinent to models of Earth materials ranging from small amounts of damping in the Earth’s crust to moderate and large amounts of damping in soft soils and water-saturated sediments. Numerical results, presented herein, are valid for a wide range of solids and applications.

HF Radar Sea-echo from Shallow Water.

PubMed

Lipa, Belinda; Nyden, Bruce; Barrick, Don; Kohut, Josh

2008-08-06

HF radar systems are widely and routinely used for the measurement of ocean surface currents and waves. Analysis methods presently in use are based on the assumption of infinite water depth, and may therefore be inadequate close to shore where the radar echo is strongest. In this paper, we treat the situation when the radar echo is returned from ocean waves that interact with the ocean floor. Simulations are described which demonstrate the effect of shallow water on radar sea-echo. These are used to investigate limits on the existing theory and to define water depths at which shallow-water effects become significant. The second-order spectral energy increases relative to the first-order as the water depth decreases, resulting in spectral saturation when the waveheight exceeds a limit defined by the radar transmit frequency. This effect is particularly marked for lower radar transmit frequencies. The saturation limit on waveheight is less for shallow water. Shallow water affects second-order spectra (which gives wave information) far more than first-order (which gives information on current velocities), the latter being significantly affected only for the lowest radar transmit frequencies for extremely shallow water. We describe analysis of radar echo from shallow water measured by a Rutgers University HF radar system to give ocean wave spectral estimates. Radar-derived wave height, period and direction are compared with simultaneous shallow-water in-situ measurements.

HF Radar Sea-echo from Shallow Water

PubMed Central

Lipa, Belinda; Nyden, Bruce; Barrick, Don; Kohut, Josh

2008-01-01

HF radar systems are widely and routinely used for the measurement of ocean surface currents and waves. Analysis methods presently in use are based on the assumption of infinite water depth, and may therefore be inadequate close to shore where the radar echo is strongest. In this paper, we treat the situation when the radar echo is returned from ocean waves that interact with the ocean floor. Simulations are described which demonstrate the effect of shallow water on radar sea-echo. These are used to investigate limits on the existing theory and to define water depths at which shallow-water effects become significant. The second-order spectral energy increases relative to the first-order as the water depth decreases, resulting in spectral saturation when the waveheight exceeds a limit defined by the radar transmit frequency. This effect is particularly marked for lower radar transmit frequencies. The saturation limit on waveheight is less for shallow water. Shallow water affects second-order spectra (which gives wave information) far more than first-order (which gives information on current velocities), the latter being significantly affected only for the lowest radar transmit frequencies for extremely shallow water. We describe analysis of radar echo from shallow water measured by a Rutgers University HF radar system to give ocean wave spectral estimates. Radar-derived wave height, period and direction are compared with simultaneous shallow-water in-situ measurements. PMID:27873776

Estimating Temporal Redistribution of Surface Melt Water into Upper Stratigraphy of the Juneau Icefield, Alaska

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wilner, J.; Smith, B.; Moore, T.; Campbell, S. W.; Slavin, B. V.; Hollander, J.; Wolf, J.

2015-12-01

The redistribution of winter accumulation from surface melt into firn or deeper layers (i.e. internal accumulation) remains a poorly understood component of glacier mass balance. Winter accumulation is usually quantified prior to summer melt, however the time window between accumulation and the onset of melt is minimal so this is not always possible. Studies which are initiated following the onset of summer melt either neglect sources of internal accumulation or attempt to estimate melt (and therefore winter accumulation uncertainty) through a variety of modeling methods. Here, we used ground-penetrating radar (GPR) repeat common midpoint (CMP) surveys with supporting common offset surveys, mass balance snow pits, and probing to estimate temporal changes in water content within the winter accumulation and firn layers of the southern Juneau Icefield, Alaska. In temperate glaciers, radio-wave velocity is primarily dependent on water content and snow or firn density. We assume density changes are temporally slow relative to water flow through the snow and firn pack, and therefore infer that changing radio-wave velocities measured by successive CMP surveys result from flux in surface melt through deeper layers. Preliminary CMP data yield radio-wave velocities of 0.15 to 0.2 m/ns in snowpack densities averaging 0.56 g cm-3, indicating partially to fully saturated snowpack (4-9% water content). Further spatial-temporal analysis of CMP surveys is being conducted. We recommend that repeat CMP surveys be conducted over a longer time frame to estimate stratigraphic water redistribution between the end of winter accumulation and maximum melt season. This information could be incorporated into surface energy balance models to further understanding of the influence of internal accumulation on glacier mass balance.

Two-wave propagation in in vitro swine distal ulna

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Mano, Isao; Horii, Kaoru; Matsukawa, Mami; Otani, Takahiko

2015-07-01

Ultrasonic transmitted waves were obtained in an in vitro swine distal ulna specimen, which mimics a human distal radius, that consists of interconnected cortical bone and cancellous bone. The transmitted waveforms appeared similar to the fast waves, slow waves, and overlapping fast and slow waves measured in the specimen after removing the surface cortical bone (only cancellous bone). In addition, the circumferential waves in the cortical bone and water did not affect the fast and slow waves. This suggests that the fast-and-slow-wave phenomenon can be observed in an in vivo human distal radius.

Sound Wave Energy Resulting from the Impact of Water Drops on the Soil Surface

PubMed Central

Ryżak, Magdalena; Bieganowski, Andrzej; Korbiel, Tomasz

2016-01-01

The splashing of water drops on a soil surface is the first step of water erosion. There have been many investigations into splashing–most are based on recording and analysing images taken with high-speed cameras, or measuring the mass of the soil moved by splashing. Here, we present a new aspect of the splash phenomenon’s characterization the measurement of the sound pressure level and the sound energy of the wave that propagates in the air. The measurements were carried out for 10 consecutive water drop impacts on the soil surface. Three soils were tested (Endogleyic Umbrisol, Fluvic Endogleyic Cambisol and Haplic Chernozem) with four initial moisture levels (pressure heads: 0.1 kPa, 1 kPa, 3.16 kPa and 16 kPa). We found that the values of the sound pressure and sound wave energy were dependent on the particle size distribution of the soil, less dependent on the initial pressure head, and practically the same for subsequent water drops (from the first to the tenth drop). The highest sound pressure level (and the greatest variability) was for Endogleyic Umbrisol, which had the highest sand fraction content. The sound pressure for this soil increased from 29 dB to 42 dB with the next incidence of drops falling on the sample The smallest (and the lowest variability) was for Fluvic Endogleyic Cambisol which had the highest clay fraction. For all experiments the sound pressure level ranged from ~27 to ~42 dB and the energy emitted in the form of sound waves was within the range of 0.14 μJ to 5.26 μJ. This was from 0.03 to 1.07% of the energy of the incident drops. PMID:27388276

Sound Wave Energy Resulting from the Impact of Water Drops on the Soil Surface.

PubMed

Ryżak, Magdalena; Bieganowski, Andrzej; Korbiel, Tomasz

2016-01-01

The splashing of water drops on a soil surface is the first step of water erosion. There have been many investigations into splashing-most are based on recording and analysing images taken with high-speed cameras, or measuring the mass of the soil moved by splashing. Here, we present a new aspect of the splash phenomenon's characterization the measurement of the sound pressure level and the sound energy of the wave that propagates in the air. The measurements were carried out for 10 consecutive water drop impacts on the soil surface. Three soils were tested (Endogleyic Umbrisol, Fluvic Endogleyic Cambisol and Haplic Chernozem) with four initial moisture levels (pressure heads: 0.1 kPa, 1 kPa, 3.16 kPa and 16 kPa). We found that the values of the sound pressure and sound wave energy were dependent on the particle size distribution of the soil, less dependent on the initial pressure head, and practically the same for subsequent water drops (from the first to the tenth drop). The highest sound pressure level (and the greatest variability) was for Endogleyic Umbrisol, which had the highest sand fraction content. The sound pressure for this soil increased from 29 dB to 42 dB with the next incidence of drops falling on the sample The smallest (and the lowest variability) was for Fluvic Endogleyic Cambisol which had the highest clay fraction. For all experiments the sound pressure level ranged from ~27 to ~42 dB and the energy emitted in the form of sound waves was within the range of 0.14 μJ to 5.26 μJ. This was from 0.03 to 1.07% of the energy of the incident drops.

Hamiltonian models for the propagation of irrotational surface gravity waves over a variable bottom

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Compelli, A.; Ivanov, R.; Todorov, M.

2017-12-01

A single incompressible, inviscid, irrotational fluid medium bounded by a free surface and varying bottom is considered. The Hamiltonian of the system is expressed in terms of the so-called Dirichlet-Neumann operators. The equations for the surface waves are presented in Hamiltonian form. Specific scaling of the variables is selected which leads to approximations of Boussinesq and Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) types, taking into account the effect of the slowly varying bottom. The arising KdV equation with variable coefficients is studied numerically when the initial condition is in the form of the one-soliton solution for the initial depth. This article is part of the theme issue 'Nonlinear water waves'.

Oceanography and Mine Warfare

DTIC Science & Technology

2000-03-13

of breaking waves , the position and strength of surface currents, and the propagation of the tide into very shallow waters. In the surf zone...6) sediment properties determine shock wave propagation , a method for mine neutralization in the surf zone. 48 OCEANOGRAPHY AND MINE WARFARE...mines will be buried in the sediments, sedimentary explosive shock wave propagation is critical for determining operational performance. Presently, we

Large wave at Daytona Beach, Florida, explained as a squall-line surge

USGS Publications Warehouse

Sallenger, A.H.; List, J.H.; Gelfenbaum, G.; Stumpf, R.P.; Hansen, M.

1995-01-01

On a clear calm evening during July 1992, an anomalously large wave, reportedly 6 m high struck the Daytona Beach, Florida area. It is hypothesized that a squall line and associated pressure jump, travelling at the speed of a free gravity wave, coupled resonantly with the sea surface forming the large wave or "squall-line surge'. The wave was forced along the length of the squall line, with the greatest amplitude occurring at the water depth satisfying the resonant condition. -from Authors

Consistent nonlinear deterministic and stochastic evolution equations for deep to shallow water wave shoaling

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Vrecica, Teodor; Toledo, Yaron

2015-04-01

One-dimensional deterministic and stochastic evolution equations are derived for the dispersive nonlinear waves while taking dissipation of energy into account. The deterministic nonlinear evolution equations are formulated using operational calculus by following the approach of Bredmose et al. (2005). Their formulation is extended to include the linear and nonlinear effects of wave dissipation due to friction and breaking. The resulting equation set describes the linear evolution of the velocity potential for each wave harmonic coupled by quadratic nonlinear terms. These terms describe the nonlinear interactions between triads of waves, which represent the leading-order nonlinear effects in the near-shore region. The equations are translated to the amplitudes of the surface elevation by using the approach of Agnon and Sheremet (1997) with the correction of Eldeberky and Madsen (1999). The only current possibility for calculating the surface gravity wave field over large domains is by using stochastic wave evolution models. Hence, the above deterministic model is formulated as a stochastic one using the method of Agnon and Sheremet (1997) with two types of stochastic closure relations (Benney and Saffman's, 1966, and Hollway's, 1980). These formulations cannot be applied to the common wave forecasting models without further manipulation, as they include a non-local wave shoaling coefficients (i.e., ones that require integration along the wave rays). Therefore, a localization method was applied (see Stiassnie and Drimer, 2006, and Toledo and Agnon, 2012). This process essentially extracts the local terms that constitute the mean nonlinear energy transfer while discarding the remaining oscillatory terms, which transfer energy back and forth. One of the main findings of this work is the understanding that the approximated non-local coefficients behave in two essentially different manners. In intermediate water depths these coefficients indeed consist of rapidly oscillating terms, but as the water depth becomes shallow they change to an exponential growth (or decay) behavior. Hence, the formerly used localization technique cannot be justified for the shallow water region. A new formulation is devised for the localization in shallow water, it approximates the nonlinear non-local shoaling coefficient in shallow water and matches it to the one fitting to the intermediate water region. This allows the model behavior to be consistent from deep water to intermediate depths and up to the shallow water regime. Various simulations of the model were performed for the cases of intermediate, and shallow water, overall the model was found to give good results in both shallow and intermediate water depths. The essential difference between the shallow and intermediate nonlinear shoaling physics is explained via the dominating class III Bragg resonances phenomenon. By inspecting the resonance conditions and the nature of the dispersion relation, it is shown that unlike in the intermediate water regime, in shallow water depths the formation of resonant interactions is possible without taking into account bottom components. References Agnon, Y. & Sheremet, A. 1997 Stochastic nonlinear shoaling of directional spectra. J. Fluid Mech. 345, 79-99. Benney, D. J. & Saffman, P. G. 1966 Nonlinear interactions of random waves. Proc. R. Soc. Lond. A 289, 301-321. Bredmose, H., Agnon, Y., Madsen, P.A. & Schaffer, H.A. 2005 Wave transformation models with exact second-order transfer. European J. of Mech. - B/Fluids 24 (6), 659-682. Eldeberky, Y. & Madsen, P. A. 1999 Deterministic and stochastic evolution equations for fully dispersive and weakly nonlinear waves. Coastal Engineering 38, 1-24. Kaihatu, J. M. & Kirby, J. T. 1995 Nonlinear transformation of waves in infinite water depth. Phys. Fluids 8, 175-188. Holloway, G. 1980 Oceanic internal waves are not weak waves. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 10, 906-914. Stiassnie, M. & Drimer, N. 2006 Prediction of long forcing waves for harbor agitation studies. J. of waterways, port, coastal and ocean engineering 132(3), 166-171. Toledo, Y. & Agnon, Y. 2012 Stochastic evolution equations with localized nonlinear shoaling coefficients. European J. of Mech. - B/Fluids 34, 13-18.

Introduction to Phase-Resolving Wave Modeling with FUNWAVE

DTIC Science & Technology

2015-07-01

Boussinesq wave models have become a useful tool for modeling surface wave transformation from deep water to the swash zone, as well as wave-induced...overlapping area of ghost cells, three rows deep , as required by the fourth-order MUSCL-TVD scheme. The MPI with nonblocking communication was used to...implemented ERDC/CHL CHETN-I-87 July 2015 12 SPONGE LAYER SPONGE_ON Sponge_west_width Sponge_east_width Sponge_south_width

Laboratory studies of near-grazing impulsive sound propagating over rough water.

PubMed

Qin, Qin; Lukaschuk, Sergei; Attenborough, Keith

2008-08-01

Acoustic impulses due to an electrical spark source (main acoustic energy near 15 kHz) have been measured after propagating near to the water surface in a shallow container resting on a vibrating platform. Control of the platform vibration enabled control of water wave amplitudes. Analysis of the results reveals systematic variations in the received acoustic waveforms as the mean trough-to-crest water wave amplitude is increased up to 7 mm. The amplitudes of the peaks corresponding to specular reflections are reduced and the variability in the tails of the waveforms is increased.

Validation and Performance Comparison of Numerical Codes for Tsunami Inundation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Velioglu, D.; Kian, R.; Yalciner, A. C.; Zaytsev, A.

2015-12-01

In inundation zones, tsunami motion turns from wave motion to flow of water. Modelling of this phenomenon is a complex problem since there are many parameters affecting the tsunami flow. In this respect, the performance of numerical codes that analyze tsunami inundation patterns becomes important. The computation of water surface elevation is not sufficient for proper analysis of tsunami behaviour in shallow water zones and on land and hence for the development of mitigation strategies. Velocity and velocity patterns are also crucial parameters and have to be computed at the highest accuracy. There are numerous numerical codes to be used for simulating tsunami inundation. In this study, FLOW 3D and NAMI DANCE codes are selected for validation and performance comparison. Flow 3D simulates linear and nonlinear propagating surface waves as well as long waves by solving three-dimensional Navier-Stokes (3D-NS) equations. FLOW 3D is used specificaly for flood problems. NAMI DANCE uses finite difference computational method to solve linear and nonlinear forms of shallow water equations (NSWE) in long wave problems, specifically tsunamis. In this study, these codes are validated and their performances are compared using two benchmark problems which are discussed in 2015 National Tsunami Hazard Mitigation Program (NTHMP) Annual meeting in Portland, USA. One of the problems is an experiment of a single long-period wave propagating up a piecewise linear slope and onto a small-scale model of the town of Seaside, Oregon. Other benchmark problem is an experiment of a single solitary wave propagating up a triangular shaped shelf with an island feature located at the offshore point of the shelf. The computed water surface elevation and velocity data are compared with the measured data. The comparisons showed that both codes are in fairly good agreement with each other and benchmark data. All results are presented with discussions and comparisons. The research leading to these results has received funding from the European Union's Seventh Framework Programme (FP7/2007-2013) under grant agreement No 603839 (Project ASTARTE - Assessment, Strategy and Risk Reduction for Tsunamis in Europe)

Incompressible SPH Model for Simulating Violent Free-Surface Fluid Flows

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Staroszczyk, Ryszard

2014-06-01

In this paper the problem of transient gravitational wave propagation in a viscous incompressible fluid is considered, with a focus on flows with fast-moving free surfaces. The governing equations of the problem are solved by the smoothed particle hydrodynamics method (SPH). In order to impose the incompressibility constraint on the fluid motion, the so-called projection method is applied in which the discrete SPH equations are integrated in time by using a fractional-step technique. Numerical performance of the proposed model has been assessed by comparing its results with experimental data and with results obtained by a standard (weakly compressible) version of the SPH approach. For this purpose, a plane dam-break flow problem is simulated, in order to investigate the formation and propagation of a wave generated by a sudden collapse of a water column initially contained in a rectangular tank, as well as the impact of such a wave on a rigid vertical wall. The results of simulations show the evolution of the free surface of water, the variation of velocity and pressure fields in the fluid, and the time history of pressures exerted by an impacting wave on a wall.

Evaluation of automated urban surface water extraction from Sentinel-2A imagery using different water indices

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Yang, Xiucheng; Chen, Li

2017-04-01

Urban surface water is characterized by complex surface continents and small size of water bodies, and the mapping of urban surface water is currently a challenging task. The moderate-resolution remote sensing satellites provide effective ways of monitoring surface water. This study conducts an exploratory evaluation on the performance of the newly available Sentinel-2A multispectral instrument (MSI) imagery for detecting urban surface water. An automatic framework that integrates pixel-level threshold adjustment and object-oriented segmentation is proposed. Based on the automated workflow, different combinations of visible, near infrared, and short-wave infrared bands in Sentinel-2 image via different water indices are first compared. Results show that object-level modified normalized difference water index (MNDWI with band 11) and automated water extraction index are feasible in urban surface water mapping for Sentinel-2 MSI imagery. Moreover, comparative results are obtained utilizing optimal MNDWI from Sentinel-2 and Landsat 8 images, respectively. Consequently, Sentinel-2 MSI achieves the kappa coefficient of 0.92, compared with that of 0.83 from Landsat 8 operational land imager.

A three-dimensional Dirichlet-to-Neumann operator for water waves over topography

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Andrade, D.; Nachbin, A.

2018-06-01

Surface water waves are considered propagating over highly variable non-smooth topographies. For this three dimensional problem a Dirichlet-to-Neumann (DtN) operator is constructed reducing the numerical modeling and evolution to the two dimensional free surface. The corresponding Fourier-type operator is defined through a matrix decomposition. The topographic component of the decomposition requires special care and a Galerkin method is provided accordingly. One dimensional numerical simulations, along the free surface, validate the DtN formulation in the presence of a large amplitude, rapidly varying topography. An alternative, conformal mapping based, method is used for benchmarking. A two dimensional simulation in the presence of a Luneburg lens (a particular submerged mound) illustrates the accurate performance of the three dimensional DtN operator.

Stokes drift.

PubMed

van den Bremer, T S; Breivik, Ø

2018-01-28

During its periodic motion, a particle floating at the free surface of a water wave experiences a net drift velocity in the direction of wave propagation, known as the Stokes drift (Stokes 1847 Trans. Camb. Philos. Soc. 8 , 441-455). More generally, the Stokes drift velocity is the difference between the average Lagrangian flow velocity of a fluid parcel and the average Eulerian flow velocity of the fluid. This paper reviews progress in fundamental and applied research on the induced mean flow associated with surface gravity waves since the first description of the Stokes drift, now 170 years ago. After briefly reviewing the fundamental physical processes, most of which have been established for decades, the review addresses progress in laboratory and field observations of the Stokes drift. Despite more than a century of experimental studies, laboratory studies of the mean circulation set up by waves in a laboratory flume remain somewhat contentious. In the field, rapid advances are expected due to increasingly small and cheap sensors and transmitters, making widespread use of small surface-following drifters possible. We also discuss remote sensing of the Stokes drift from high-frequency radar. Finally, the paper discusses the three main areas of application of the Stokes drift: in the coastal zone, in Eulerian models of the upper ocean layer and in the modelling of tracer transport, such as oil and plastic pollution. Future climate models will probably involve full coupling of ocean and atmosphere systems, in which the wave model provides consistent forcing on the ocean surface boundary layer. Together with the advent of new space-borne instruments that can measure surface Stokes drift, such models hold the promise of quantifying the impact of wave effects on the global atmosphere-ocean system and hopefully contribute to improved climate projections.This article is part of the theme issue 'Nonlinear water waves'. © 2017 The Author(s).

Non-contact thickness measurement using UTG

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Bui, Hoa T. (Inventor)

1996-01-01

A measurement structure for determining the thickness of a specimen without mechanical contact but instead employing ultrasonic waves including an ultrasonic transducer and an ultrasonic delay line connected to the transducer by a retainer or collar. The specimen, whose thickness is to be measured, is positioned below the delay line. On the upper surface of the specimen a medium such as a drop of water is disposed which functions to couple the ultrasonic waves from the delay line to the specimen. A receiver device, which may be an ultrasonic thickness gauge, receives reflected ultrasonic waves reflected from the upper and lower surface of the specimen and determines the thickness of the specimen based on the time spacing of the reflected waves.

Long-Wave Radiation Divergence over Water and Land from Measurement and Calculation (Die Langwellige Strahlungsdivergenz ueber Wasser und ueber dem Festen Boden nach Messung und Rechnung),

DTIC Science & Technology

surface temperature field. If these are eliminated, which is relatively simple over a water surface, the differences between calculated and measured...divergences at these levels is less than 20%, on the average. The relative variation of the divergence with height is somewhat greater over water than over land, due to the different temperature profiles. (Author)

A shallow water model for the propagation of tsunami via Lattice Boltzmann method

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zergani, Sara; Aziz, Z. A.; Viswanathan, K. K.

2015-01-01

An efficient implementation of the lattice Boltzmann method (LBM) for the numerical simulation of the propagation of long ocean waves (e.g. tsunami), based on the nonlinear shallow water (NSW) wave equation is presented. The LBM is an alternative numerical procedure for the description of incompressible hydrodynamics and has the potential to serve as an efficient solver for incompressible flows in complex geometries. This work proposes the NSW equations for the irrotational surface waves in the case of complex bottom elevation. In recent time, equation involving shallow water is the current norm in modelling tsunami operations which include the propagation zone estimation. Several test-cases are presented to verify our model. Some implications to tsunami wave modelling are also discussed. Numerical results are found to be in excellent agreement with theory.

Infragravity waves in the ocean as a source of acoustic-gravity waves in the atmosphere

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zabotin, Nikolay A.; Godin, Oleg A.

2013-04-01

Infragravity waves (IGWs) are surface gravity waves in the ocean with periods longer than the longest periods (~30s) of wind-generated waves. IGWs propagate transoceanic distances with very little attenuation in deep water and, because of their long wavelengths (from ~1 km to hundreds of km), provide a mechanism for coupling wave processes in the ocean, ice shelves, the atmosphere, and the solid Earth. Here, we build on recent advances in understanding spectral and spatial variability of background infragravity waves in deep ocean to evaluate the IGW manifestations in the atmosphere. Water compressibility has a minor effect on IGWs. On the contrary, much larger compressibility and vertical extent of the atmosphere makes it necessary to treat IGW extension into the atmosphere as acoustic-gravity waves. There exist two distinct regimes of IGW penetration into the atmosphere. At higher frequencies, one has surface waves in the atmosphere propagating horizontally along the ocean surface and prominent up to heights of the order of the wavelength. At lower frequencies, IGWs are leaky waves, which continuously radiate their energy into the upper atmosphere. The transition between the two regimes occurs at a frequency of the order of 3 mHz, with the exact value of the transition frequency being a function of the ocean depth, the direction of IGW propagation and the vertical profiles of temperature and wind velocity. The transition frequency decreases with increasing ocean depth. Using recently obtained semi-empirical model of power spectra the IGWs over varying bathymetry [Godin O. A., Zabotin N. A., Sheehan A. F., Yang Z., and Collins J. A. Power spectra of infragravity waves in a deep ocean, Geophys. Res. Lett., under review (2012)], we derive an estimate of the flux of the mechanical energy from the deep ocean into the atmosphere due to IGWs. Significance will be discussed of the IGW contributions into the field of acoustic-gravity waves in the atmosphere.

Optical methods in modeling nicotine effect on the surface water of cell membranes

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Alexandrova, Tatyana V.; Rogacheva, Svetlana M.; Kuznetsov, Pavel E.; Gubina, Tamara I.

2005-06-01

Fluorescence and spectrophotometric methods have been used for investigation of nicotine action on the state and mobility of the surface water. The surfaces of membranes and proteins were simulated with the help of liposomes and ultradispersive diamonds consequently. Nicotine was shown to reduce the stability of liposomes and to change the aggregative ability of ultradispersive diamonds. The wave-like curves for the nicotine concentration dependences of the pointed features were observed. Such shape of responses was suggested to be due to the changing in structure and dynamics of water hydrogen bonds net near the surface of the model systems induced by nicotine molecules. The surface water phase was supposed to be one of signal elements ofthe ligand receptor recognition process.

Direct measurement of nonlinear dispersion relation for water surface waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Magnus Arnesen Taklo, Tore; Trulsen, Karsten; Elias Krogstad, Harald; Gramstad, Odin; Nieto Borge, José Carlos; Jensen, Atle

2013-04-01

The linear dispersion relation for water surface waves is often taken for granted for the interpretation of wave measurements. High-resolution spatiotemporal measurements suitable for direct validation of the linear dispersion relation are on the other hand rarely available. While the imaging of the ocean surface with nautical radar does provide the desired spatiotemporal coverage, the interpretation of the radar images currently depends on the linear dispersion relation as a prerequisite, (Nieto Borge et al., 2004). Krogstad & Trulsen (2010) carried out numerical simulations with the nonlinear Schrödinger equation and its generalizations demonstrating that the nonlinear evolution of wave fields may render the linear dispersion relation inadequate for proper interpretation of observations, the reason being that the necessary domain of simultaneous coverage in space and time would allow significant nonlinear evolution. They found that components above the spectral peak can have larger phase and group velocities than anticipated by linear theory, and that the spectrum does not maintain a thin dispersion surface. We have run laboratory experiments and accurate numerical simulations designed to have sufficient resolution in space and time to deduce the dispersion relation directly. For a JONSWAP spectrum we find that the linear dispersion relation can be appropriate for the interpretation of spatiotemporal measurements. For a Gaussian spectrum with narrower bandwidth we find that the dynamic nonlinear evolution in space and time causes the directly measured dispersion relation to deviate from the linear dispersion surface in good agreement with our previous numerical predictions. This work has been supported by RCN grant 214556/F20. Krogstad, H. E. & Trulsen, K. (2010) Interpretations and observations of ocean wave spectra. Ocean Dynamics 60:973-991. Nieto Borge, J. C., Rodríguez, G., Hessner, K., Izquierdo, P. (2004) Inversion of marine radar images for surface wave analysis. J. Atmos. Ocean. Tech. 21:1291-1300.

THE MOVEMENT OF OIL UNDER NON-BREAKING WAVES

EPA Science Inventory

The combined effects of wave kinematics, turbulent diffusion, and buoyancy on the transport of oil droplets at sea were investigated in this work using random walk techniques in a Monte Carlo framework. Six hundred oil particles were placed at the water surface and tracked for 5...

Relationship between gas exchange, wind speed, and radar backscatter in a large wind-wave tank

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Wanninkhof, Richard H.; Bliven, L. F.

1991-01-01

The relationships between the gas exchange, wind speed, friction velocity, and radar backscatter from the water surface was investigated using data obtained in a large water tank in the Delft (Netherlands) wind-wave tunnel, filled with water supersaturated with SF6, N2O, and CH4. Results indicate that the gas-transfer velocities of these substances were related to the wind speed with a power law dependence. Microwave backscatter from water surface was found to be related to gas transfer velocities by a relationship in the form k(gas) = a 10 exp (b A0), where k is the gas transfer velocity for the particular gas, the values of a and b are obtained from a least squares fit of the average backscatter cross section and gas transfer at 80 m, and A0 is the directional (azimuthal) averaged return.

Evaluation of the swell effect on the air-sea gas transfer in the coastal zone

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gutiérrez-Loza, Lucía; Ocampo-Torres, Francisco J.

2016-04-01

Air-sea gas transfer processes are one of the most important factors regarding global climate and long-term global climate changes. Despite its importance, there is still a huge uncertainty on how to better parametrize these processes in order to include them on the global climate models. This uncertainty exposes the need to increase our knowledge on gas transfer controlling mechanisms. In the coastal regions, breaking waves become a key factor to take into account when estimating gas fluxes, however, there is still a lack of information and the influence of the ocean surface waves on the air-sea interaction and gas flux behavior must be validated. In this study, as part of the "Sea Surface Roughness as Air-Sea Interaction Control" project, we evaluate the effect of the ocean surface waves on the gas exchange in the coastal zone. Direct estimates of the flux of CO2 (FCO2) and water vapor (FH2O) through eddy covariance, were carried out from May 2014 to April 2015 in a coastal station located at the Northwest of Todos Santos Bay, Baja California, México. For the same period, ocean surface waves are recorded using an Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (Workhorse Sentinel, Teledyne RD Instruments) with a sampling rate of 2 Hz and located at 10 m depth about 350 m away from the tower. We found the study area to be a weak sink of CO2 under moderate wind and wave conditions with a mean flux of -1.32 μmol/m2s. The correlation between the wind speed and FCO2 was found to be weak, suggesting that other physical processes besides wind may be important factors for the gas exchange modulation at coastal waters. The results of the quantile regression analysis computed between FCO2 and (1) wind speed, (2) significant wave height, (3) wave steepness and (4) water temperature, show that the significant wave height is the most correlated parameter with FCO2; Nevertheless, the behavior of their relation varies along the probability distribution of FCO2, with the linear regression slope presenting both positive and negative values. The latter implies that in the coastal areas, the presence of swell is the key factor that promotes the intensification of the fluxes into and from the ocean. Further analysis showed that the characteristics of wind speed and water temperature determine the direction in which the FCO2 occur.

Verification and transfer of thermal pollution model. Volume 5: Verification of 2-dimensional numerical model

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Lee, S. S.; Sengupta, S.; Nwadike, E. V.

1982-01-01

The six-volume report: describes the theory of a three dimensional (3-D) mathematical thermal discharge model and a related one dimensional (1-D) model, includes model verification at two sites, and provides a separate user's manual for each model. The 3-D model has two forms: free surface and rigid lid. The former, verified at Anclote Anchorate (FL), allows a free air/water interface and is suited for significant surface wave heights compared to mean water depth; e.g., estuaries and coastal regions. The latter, verified at Lake Keowee (SC), is suited for small surface wave heights compared to depth (e.g., natural or man-made inland lakes) because surface elevation has been removed as a parameter. These models allow computation of time dependent velocity and temperature fields for given initial conditions and time-varying boundary conditions.

Modeling the Surface Water-Groundwater Interaction in Arid and Semi-Arid Regions Impacted by Agricultural Activities

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Tian, Y.; Wu, B.; Zheng, Y.

2013-12-01

In many semi-arid and arid regions, interaction between surface water and groundwater plays an important role in the eco-hydrological system. The interaction is often complicated by agricultural activities such as surface water diversion, groundwater pumping, and irrigation. In existing surface water-groundwater integrated models, simulation of the interaction is often simplified, which could introduce significant simulation uncertainty under certain circumstance. In this study, GSFLOW, a USGS model coupling PRMS and MODFLOW, was improved to better characterize the surface water-groundwater interaction. The practices of water diversion from rivers, groundwater pumping and irrigation are explicitly simulated. In addition, the original kinematic wave routing method was replaced by a dynamic wave routing method. The improved model was then applied in Zhangye Basin (the midstream part of Heihe River Baisn), China, where the famous 'Silk Road' came through. It is a typical semi-arid region of the western China, with extensive agriculture in its oasis. The model was established and calibrated using the data in 2000-2008. A series of numerical experiments were conducted to evaluate the effect of those improvements. It has been demonstrated that with the improvements, the observed streamflow and groundwater level were better reproduced by the model. The improvements have a significant impact on the simulation of multiple fluxes associated with the interaction, such as groundwater discharge, riverbed seepage, infiltration, etc. Human activities were proved to be key elements of the water cycle in the study area. The study results have important implications to the water resources modeling and management in semi-arid and arid basins.

Destructive tsunami-like wave generated by surf beat over a coral reef during Typhoon Haiyan.

PubMed

Roeber, Volker; Bricker, Jeremy D

2015-08-06

Storm surges cause coastal inundation due to setup of the water surface resulting from atmospheric pressure, surface winds and breaking waves. Here we show that during Typhoon Haiyan, the setup generated by breaking waves near the fringing-reef-protected town of Hernani, the Philippines, oscillated with the incidence of large and small wave groups, and steepened into a tsunami-like wave that caused extensive damage and casualties. Though fringing reefs usually protect coastal communities from moderate storms, they can exacerbate flooding during strong events with energetic waves. Typical for reef-type bathymetries, a very short wave-breaking zone over the steep reef face facilitates the freeing of infragravity-period fluctuations (surf beat) with little energy loss. Since coastal flood planning relies on phase-averaged wave modelling, infragravity surges are not being accounted for. This highlights the necessity for a policy change and the adoption of phase-resolving wave models for hazard assessment in regions with fringing reefs.

Destructive tsunami-like wave generated by surf beat over a coral reef during Typhoon Haiyan

PubMed Central

Roeber, Volker; Bricker, Jeremy D.

2015-01-01

Storm surges cause coastal inundation due to setup of the water surface resulting from atmospheric pressure, surface winds and breaking waves. Here we show that during Typhoon Haiyan, the setup generated by breaking waves near the fringing-reef-protected town of Hernani, the Philippines, oscillated with the incidence of large and small wave groups, and steepened into a tsunami-like wave that caused extensive damage and casualties. Though fringing reefs usually protect coastal communities from moderate storms, they can exacerbate flooding during strong events with energetic waves. Typical for reef-type bathymetries, a very short wave-breaking zone over the steep reef face facilitates the freeing of infragravity-period fluctuations (surf beat) with little energy loss. Since coastal flood planning relies on phase-averaged wave modelling, infragravity surges are not being accounted for. This highlights the necessity for a policy change and the adoption of phase-resolving wave models for hazard assessment in regions with fringing reefs. PMID:26245839

Percentage Contributions from Atmospheric and Surface Features to Computed Brightness Temperatures

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Jackson, Gail Skofronick

2006-01-01

Over the past few years, there has become an increasing interest in the use of millimeter-wave (mm-wave) and sub-millimeter-wave (submm-wave) radiometer observations to investigate the properties of ice particles in clouds. Passive radiometric channels respond to both the integrated particle mass throughout the volume and field of view, and to the amount, location, and size distribution of the frozen (and liquid) particles with the sensitivity varying for different frequencies and hydrometeor types. One methodology used since the 1960's to discern the relationship between the physical state observed and the brightness temperature (TB) is through the temperature weighting function profile. In this research, the temperature weighting function concept is exploited to analyze the sensitivity of various characteristics of the cloud profile, such as relative humidity, ice water path, liquid water path, and surface emissivity. In our numerical analysis, we compute the contribution (in Kelvin) from each of these cloud and surface characteristics, so that the sum of these various parts equals the computed TB. Furthermore, the percentage contribution from each of these characteristics is assessed. There is some intermingling/contamination of the contributions from various components due to the integrated nature of passive observations and the absorption and scattering between the vertical layers, but all in all the knowledge gained is useful. This investigation probes the sensitivity over several cloud classifications, such as cirrus, blizzards, light snow, anvil clouds, and heavy rain. The focus is on mm-wave and submm-wave frequencies, however discussions of the effects of cloud variations to frequencies as low as 10 GHz and up to 874 GHz will also be presented. The results show that nearly 60% of the TB value at 89 GHz comes from the earth's surface for even the heaviest blizzard snow rates. On the other hand, a significant percentage of the TB value comes from the snow in the cloud for 166, and 183 plus or minus 7 GHz for the heavy and medium snow rates. For submm-wave channels, there is no contribution from the surface because these channels cannot probe through clouds, nor normal water vapor amounts in clear air regions. This work is extremely valuable in physically-based retrieval algorithm development research.

Experimental study on waves propagation over a coarse-grained sloping beach

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hsu, Tai-Wen; Lai, Jian-Wu

2013-04-01

This study investigates velocity fields of wave propagation over a coarse-grained sloping beach using laboratory experiments. The experiment was conducted in a wave flume of 25 m long, 0.5 m wide and 0.6 m high in which a coarse-grained sloping 1:5 beach was placed with two layers ball. The glass ball is D=7.9 cm and the center to center distance of each ball is 8.0 cm. The test section for observing wave and flow fields is located at the middle part of the flume. A piston type wave maker driven by an electromechanical hydraulic serve system is installed at the end of the flume. The intrinsic permeability Kp and turbulent drag coefficient Cf were obtained from steady flow water-head experiments. The flow velocity was measured by the particle image velocimeter (PIV) and digital image process (DIP) techniques. Eleven fields of view (FOVS) were integrated into a complete representation including the outer, surf and swash zone. Details of the definition sketch of the coarse-grained sloping beach model as well as experimental setup are referred to Lai et al. (2008). A high resolution of CCD camera was used to capture the images which was calibrated by the direct linear transform (DCT) algorithm proposed by Abed El-Aziz and Kar-Ara (1971). The water surface between the interface of air and water at each time step are calculated by Otsu' (1978) detect algorithm. The comparison shows that the water surface elevation observed by integrated image agrees well with that of Otsu' detection results. For the flow field measurement, each image pair was cross correlated with 32X32 pixel inter rogation window and a half overlap between adjacent windows. The repeatability and synchronization are the key elements for both wave motion and PIV technique. The wave profiles and flow field were compared during several wave periods to ensure that they can be reproduced by the present system. The water depth is kept as a constant of h=32 cm. The incident wave conditions are set to be wave height H0 = 3.86 cm or 7.75 cm and wave period T = 1.0 s. The illumination source of the PIV system is a dual-head frequency-doubled Nd:YAG laser, which has a maximum energy output of 120 mJ per pulse at two wavelengths of 523nm and 266nm. A synchronizer controls the emission time of a pulse laser beam as well as the camera exposure and shutter time. Linear wave theory (LWT) of wave propagation over a constant water depth was tested to validate the DIP/PIV algorithm. The comparison of velocity profiles in X and Z directions are in good agreement with those of LWT. Waves propagating over a coarse-grained sloping beach were investigated using PIV/DIP techniques. Detailed analysis of experimental results show that the flow field, turbulent intensity and vorticity are primarily located above the wave trough. A detailed description is provided in terms of free surface, velocity field, and turbulent energy transport. References 1. Abdel-Aziz, Karara.1971, Direct linear transformation into object space coordinates in closerange photogrametry. In Proc. Symp. Close-Range Photogrametry, 1-18. 2. Flow-3D (2008) user manual, version 9.3. 3. Otsu N. 1978. A threshold selection method from gray level histogram, IEEE Trans. on System, Man, and Cybernetics, 8, 62-66.

Integration of coastal inundation modeling from storm tides to individual waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Li, Ning; Roeber, Volker; Yamazaki, Yoshiki; Heitmann, Troy W.; Bai, Yefei; Cheung, Kwok Fai

2014-11-01

Modeling of storm-induced coastal inundation has primarily focused on the surge generated by atmospheric pressure and surface winds with phase-averaged effects of the waves as setup. Through an interoperable model package, we investigate the role of phase-resolving wave processes in simulation of coastal flood hazards. A spectral ocean wave model describes generation and propagation of storm waves from deep to intermediate water, while a non-hydrostatic storm-tide model has the option to couple with a spectral coastal wave model for computation of phase-averaged processes in a near-shore region. The ocean wave and storm-tide models can alternatively provide the wave spectrum and the surface elevation as the boundary and initial conditions for a nested Boussinesq model. Additional surface-gradient terms in the Boussinesq equations maintain the quasi-steady, non-uniform storm tide for modeling of phase-resolving surf and swash-zone processes as well as combined tide, surge, and wave inundation. The two nesting schemes are demonstrated through a case study of Hurricane Iniki, which made landfall on the Hawaiian Island of Kauai in 1992. With input from a parametric hurricane model and global reanalysis and tidal datasets, the two approaches produce comparable significant wave heights and phase-averaged surface elevations in the surf zone. The nesting of the Boussinesq model provides a seamless approach to augment the inundation due to the individual waves in matching the recorded debris line along the coast.

Surface Wave Dynamics in the Coastal Zone

DTIC Science & Technology

2014-09-30

also collected from the Duck measurement site, operated by the USACE Field Research Facility at Duck , North Carolina. The collection and validation...similar analysis for 10 storm periods using wave data collected at Duck , North Carolina. The preparations consist of creating a dedicated unstructured...validated in the Southern North Sea and Duck validation studies. The shallow water source terms for wave breaking and triad interactions are being

Investigation of the physical scaling of sea spray spume droplet production

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Fairall, C. W.; Banner, M. L.; Peirson, W. L.; Asher, W.; Morison, R. P.

2009-10-01

In this paper we report on a laboratory study, the Spray Production and Dynamics Experiment (SPANDEX), conducted at the University of New South Wales Water Research Laboratory in Australia. The goals of SPANDEX were to illuminate physical aspects of spume droplet production and dispersion; verify theoretical simplifications used to estimate the source function from ambient droplet concentration measurements; and examine the relationship between the implied source strength and forcing parameters such as wind speed, surface turbulent stress, and wave properties. Observations of droplet profiles give reasonable confirmation of the basic power law profile relationship that is commonly used to relate droplet concentrations to the surface source strength. This essentially confirms that, even in a wind tunnel, there is a near balance between droplet production and removal by gravitational settling. The observations also indicate considerable droplet mass may be present for sizes larger than 1.5 mm diameter. Phase Doppler Anemometry observations revealed significant mean horizontal and vertical slip velocities that were larger closer to the surface. The magnitude seems too large to be an acceleration time scale effect. Scaling of the droplet production surface source strength proved to be difficult. The wind speed forcing varied only 23% and the stress increased a factor of 2.2. Yet, the source strength increased by about a factor of 7. We related this to an estimate of surface wave energy flux through calculations of the standard deviation of small-scale water surface disturbance, a wave-stress parameterization, and numerical wave model simulations. This energy index only increased by a factor of 2.3 with the wind forcing. Nonetheless, a graph of spray mass surface flux versus surface disturbance energy is quasi-linear with a substantial threshold.

Amplification of nonlinear surface waves by wind

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Leblanc, Stephane

2007-10-15

A weakly nonlinear analysis is conducted to study the evolution of slowly varying wavepackets with small but finite amplitudes, that evolve at the interface between air and water under the effect of wind. In the inviscid assumption, wave envelopes are governed by cubic nonlinear Schroedinger or Davey-Stewartson equations forced by a linear term corresponding to Miles' mechanism of wave generation. Under fair wind, it is shown that Stokes waves grow exponentially and that Benjamin-Feir instability becomes explosive.

Overdetermined shooting methods for computing standing water waves with spectral accuracy

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wilkening, Jon; Yu, Jia

2012-01-01

A high-performance shooting algorithm is developed to compute time-periodic solutions of the free-surface Euler equations with spectral accuracy in double and quadruple precision. The method is used to study resonance and its effect on standing water waves. We identify new nucleation mechanisms in which isolated large-amplitude solutions, and closed loops of such solutions, suddenly exist for depths below a critical threshold. We also study degenerate and secondary bifurcations related to Wilton's ripples in the traveling case, and explore the breakdown of self-similarity at the crests of extreme standing waves. In shallow water, we find that standing waves take the form of counter-propagating solitary waves that repeatedly collide quasi-elastically. In deep water with surface tension, we find that standing waves resemble counter-propagating depression waves. We also discuss the existence and non-uniqueness of solutions, and smooth versus erratic dependence of Fourier modes on wave amplitude and fluid depth. In the numerical method, robustness is achieved by posing the problem as an overdetermined nonlinear system and using either adjoint-based minimization techniques or a quadratically convergent trust-region method to minimize the objective function. Efficiency is achieved in the trust-region approach by parallelizing the Jacobian computation, so the setup cost of computing the Dirichlet-to-Neumann operator in the variational equation is not repeated for each column. Updates of the Jacobian are also delayed until the previous Jacobian ceases to be useful. Accuracy is maintained using spectral collocation with optional mesh refinement in space, a high-order Runge-Kutta or spectral deferred correction method in time and quadruple precision for improved navigation of delicate regions of parameter space as well as validation of double-precision results. Implementation issues for transferring much of the computation to a graphic processing units are briefly discussed, and the performance of the algorithm is tested for a number of hardware configurations.

Scattering of surface water waves involving semi-infinite floating elastic plates on water of finite depth

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Chakrabarti, Aloknath; Mohapatra, Smrutiranjan

2013-09-01

Two problems of scattering of surface water waves involving a semi-infinite elastic plate and a pair of semi-infinite elastic plates, separated by a gap of finite width, floating horizontally on water of finite depth, are investigated in the present work for a two-dimensional time-harmonic case. Within the frame of linear water wave theory, the solutions of the two boundary value problems under consideration have been represented in the forms of eigenfunction expansions. Approximate values of the reflection and transmission coefficients are obtained by solving an over-determined system of linear algebraic equations in each problem. In both the problems, the method of least squares as well as the singular value decomposition have been employed and tables of numerical values of the reflection and transmission coefficients are presented for specific choices of the parameters for modelling the elastic plates. Our main aim is to check the energy balance relation in each problem which plays a very important role in the present approach of solutions of mixed boundary value problems involving Laplace equations. The main advantage of the present approach of solutions is that the results for the values of reflection and transmission coefficients obtained by using both the methods are found to satisfy the energy-balance relations associated with the respective scattering problems under consideration. The absolute values of the reflection and transmission coefficients are presented graphically against different values of the wave numbers.

Field and numerical study of wind and surface waves at short fetches

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Baydakov, Georgy; Kuznetsova, Alexandra; Sergeev, Daniil; Papko, Vladislav; Kandaurov, Alexander; Vdovin, Maxim; Troitskaya, Yuliya

2016-04-01

Measurements were carried out in 2012-2015 from May to October in the waters of Gorky Reservoir belonging to the Volga Cascade. The methods of the experiment focus on the study of airflow in the close proximity to the water surface. The sensors were positioned at the oceanographic Froude buoy including five two-component ultrasonic sensors WindSonic by Gill Instruments at different levels (0.1, 0.85, 1.3, 2.27, 5.26 meters above the mean water surface level), one water and three air temperature sensors, and three-channel wire wave gauge. One of wind sensors (0.1 m) was located on the float tracking the waveform for measuring the wind speed in the close proximity to the water surface. Basic parameters of the atmospheric boundary layer (the friction velocity u∗, the wind speed U10 and the drag coefficient CD) were calculated from the measured profiles of wind speed. Parameters were obtained in the range of wind speeds of 1-12 m/s. For wind speeds stronger than 4 m/s CD values were lower than those obtained before (see eg. [1,2]) and those predicted by the bulk parameterization. However, for weak winds (less than 3 m/s) CD values considerably higher than expected ones. The new parameterization of surface drag coefficient was proposed on the basis of the obtained data. The suggested parameterization of drag coefficient CD(U10) was implemented within wind input source terms in WAVEWATCH III [3]. The results of the numerical experiments were compared with the results obtained in the field experiments on the Gorky Reservoir. The use of the new drag coefficient improves the agreement in significant wave heights HS [4]. At the same time, the predicted mean wave periods are overestimated using both built-in source terms and adjusted source terms. We associate it with the necessity of the adjusting of the DIA nonlinearity model in WAVEWATCH III to the conditions of the middle-sized reservoir. Test experiments on the adjusting were carried out. The work was supported by the Russian Foundation for Basic Research (Grants No. 15-35-20953, 14-05-00367, 15-45-02580) and project ASIST of FP7. The field experiment is supported by Russian Science Foundation (Agreement No. 15-17-20009), numerical simulations are partially supported by Russian Science Foundation (Agreement No. 14-17-00667). References 1. A.V. Babanin, V.K. Makin Effects of wind trend and gustiness on the sea drag: Lake George study // Journal of Geophysical Research, 2008, 113, C02015, doi:10.1029/2007JC004233 2. S.S. Atakturk, K.B. Katsaros Wind Stress and Surface Waves Observed on Lake Washington // Journal of Physical Oceanography, 1999, 29, pp. 633-650 3. Kuznetsova A.M., Baydakov G.A., Papko V.V., Kandaurov A.A., Vdovin M.I., Sergeev D.A., Troitskaya Yu.I. Adjusting of wind input source term in WAVEWATCH III model for the middle-sized water body on the basis of the field experiment // Hindawi Publishing Corporation, Advances in Meteorology, 2016, Vol. 1, article ID 574602 4. G.A. Baydakov, A.M. Kuznetsova, D.A. Sergeev, V.V. Papko, A.A. Kandaurov, M.I. Vdovin, and Yu.I. Troitskaya Field study and numerical modeling of wind and surface waves at the middle-sized water body // Geophysical Research Abstracts, Vol.17, EGU2015-9427, Vienne, Austria, 2015.

Emerging trends in the sea state of the Beaufort and Chukchi seas

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Thomson, Jim; Fan, Yalin; Stammerjohn, Sharon; Stopa, Justin; Rogers, W. Erick; Girard-Ardhuin, Fanny; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Shen, Hayley; Perrie, Will; Shen, Hui; Ackley, Steve; Babanin, Alex; Liu, Qingxiang; Guest, Peter; Maksym, Ted; Wadhams, Peter; Fairall, Chris; Persson, Ola; Doble, Martin; Graber, Hans; Lund, Bjoern; Squire, Vernon; Gemmrich, Johannes; Lehner, Susanne; Holt, Benjamin; Meylan, Mike; Brozena, John; Bidlot, Jean-Raymond

2016-09-01

The sea state of the Beaufort and Chukchi seas is controlled by the wind forcing and the amount of ice-free water available to generate surface waves. Clear trends in the annual duration of the open water season and in the extent of the seasonal sea ice minimum suggest that the sea state should be increasing, independent of changes in the wind forcing. Wave model hindcasts from four selected years spanning recent conditions are consistent with this expectation. In particular, larger waves are more common in years with less summer sea ice and/or a longer open water season, and peak wave periods are generally longer. The increase in wave energy may affect both the coastal zones and the remaining summer ice pack, as well as delay the autumn ice-edge advance. However, trends in the amount of wave energy impinging on the ice-edge are inconclusive, and the associated processes, especially in the autumn period of new ice formation, have yet to be well-described by in situ observations. There is an implicit trend and evidence for increasing wave energy along the coast of northern Alaska, and this coastal signal is corroborated by satellite altimeter estimates of wave energy.

14 CFR 29.519 - Hull type rotorcraft: Water-based and amphibian.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2012 CFR

2012-01-01

... section considering the most severe wave heights and profiles for which approval is desired. The loads for... a rotor lift not exceeding two-thirds of the rotorcraft weight to act throughout the landing impact. (b) Vertical landing conditions. The rotorcraft must initially contact the most critical wave surface...

14 CFR 29.519 - Hull type rotorcraft: Water-based and amphibian.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2014 CFR

2014-01-01

... section considering the most severe wave heights and profiles for which approval is desired. The loads for... a rotor lift not exceeding two-thirds of the rotorcraft weight to act throughout the landing impact. (b) Vertical landing conditions. The rotorcraft must initially contact the most critical wave surface...

14 CFR 29.519 - Hull type rotorcraft: Water-based and amphibian.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2013 CFR

2013-01-01

... section considering the most severe wave heights and profiles for which approval is desired. The loads for... a rotor lift not exceeding two-thirds of the rotorcraft weight to act throughout the landing impact. (b) Vertical landing conditions. The rotorcraft must initially contact the most critical wave surface...

14 CFR 29.519 - Hull type rotorcraft: Water-based and amphibian.

Code of Federal Regulations, 2011 CFR

2011-01-01

... section considering the most severe wave heights and profiles for which approval is desired. The loads for... a rotor lift not exceeding two-thirds of the rotorcraft weight to act throughout the landing impact. (b) Vertical landing conditions. The rotorcraft must initially contact the most critical wave surface...

Determining the mean hydraulic gradient of ground water affected by tidal fluctuations

USGS Publications Warehouse

Serfes, Michael E.

1991-01-01

Tidal fluctuations in surface-water bodies produce progressive pressure waves in adjacent aquifers. As these pressure waves propagate inland, ground-water levels and hydraulic gradients continuously fluctuate, creating a situation where a single set of water-level measurements cannot be used to accurately characterize ground-water flow. For example, a time series of water levels measured in a confined aquifer in Atlantic City, New Jersey, showed that the hydraulic gradient ranged from .01 to .001 with a 22-degree change in direction during a tidal day of approximately 25 hours. At any point where ground water tidally fluctuates, the magnitude and direction of the hydraulic gradient fluctuates about the mean or regional hydraulic gradient. The net effect of these fluctuations on ground-water flow can be determined using the mean hydraulic gradient, which can be calculated by comparing mean ground- and surface-water elevations. Filtering methods traditionally used to determine daily mean sea level can be similarly applied to ground water to determine mean levels. Method (1) uses 71 consecutive hourly water-level observations to accurately determine the mean level. Method (2) approximates the mean level using only 25 consecutive hourly observations; however, there is a small error associated with this method.

Viscosity effects in wind wave generation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Paquier, A.; Moisy, F.; Rabaud, M.

2016-12-01

We investigate experimentally the influence of the liquid viscosity on the problem of the generation of waves by a turbulent wind at the surface of a liquid, extending the results of Paquier et al. [A. Paquier et al., Phys. Fluids 27, 122103 (2015), 10.1063/1.4936395] over nearly three decades of viscosity. The surface deformations are measured with micrometer accuracy using the free-surface synthetic schlieren method. We recover the two regimes of surface deformations previously identified: the wrinkle regime at small wind velocity, resulting from the viscous imprint on the liquid surface of the turbulent fluctuations in the boundary layer, and the regular wave regime at large wind velocity. Below the wave threshold, we find that the characteristic amplitude of the wrinkles scales as ν-1 /2u*3 /2 over nearly the whole range of viscosities, whereas their size is essentially unchanged. We propose a simple model for this scaling, which compares well with the data. We show that the critical friction velocity u* for the onset of regular waves slowly increases with viscosity as ν0.2. Whereas the transition between wrinkles and waves is smooth at low viscosity, including for water, it becomes rather abrupt at high viscosity. A third wave regime is found at ν >(100 -200 ) ×10-6m2s-1 , characterized by a slow, nearly periodic emission of large-amplitude isolated fluid bumps.

MODFLOW-based coupled surface water routing and groundwater-flow simulation

USGS Publications Warehouse

Hughes, Joseph D.; Langevin, Christian D.; White, Jeremy T.

2015-01-01

In this paper, we present a flexible approach for simulating one- and two-dimensional routing of surface water using a numerical surface water routing (SWR) code implicitly coupled to the groundwater-flow process in MODFLOW. Surface water routing in SWR can be simulated using a diffusive-wave approximation of the Saint-Venant equations and/or a simplified level-pool approach. SWR can account for surface water flow controlled by backwater conditions caused by small water-surface gradients or surface water control structures. A number of typical surface water control structures, such as culverts, weirs, and gates, can be represented, and it is possible to implement operational rules to manage surface water stages and streamflow. The nonlinear system of surface water flow equations formulated in SWR is solved by using Newton methods and direct or iterative solvers. SWR was tested by simulating the (1) Lal axisymmetric overland flow, (2) V-catchment, and (3) modified Pinder-Sauer problems. Simulated results for these problems compare well with other published results and indicate that SWR provides accurate results for surface water-only and coupled surface water/groundwater problems. Results for an application of SWR and MODFLOW to the Snapper Creek area of Miami-Dade County, Florida, USA are also presented and demonstrate the value of coupled surface water and groundwater simulation in managed, low-relief coastal settings.

Hydroelastic analysis of surface wave interaction with concentric porous and flexible cylinder systems

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Mandal, S.; Datta, N.; Sahoo, T.

2013-10-01

The present study deals with the hydroelastic analysis of gravity wave interaction with concentric porous and flexible cylinder systems, in which the inner cylinder is rigid and the outer cylinder is porous and flexible. The problems are analyzed in finite water depth under the assumption of small amplitude water wave theory and structural response. The cylinder configurations in the present study are namely (a) surface-piercing truncated cylinders, (b) bottom-touching truncated cylinders and (c) complete submerged cylinders extended from free surface to bottom. As special cases of the concentric cylinder system, wave diffraction by (i) porous flexible cylinder and (ii) flexible floating cage with rigid bottom are analyzed. The scattering potentials are evaluated using Fourier-Bessel series expansion method and the least square approximation method. The convergence of the double series is tested numerically to determine the number of terms in the Fourier-Bessel series expansion. The effects of porosity and flexibility of the outer cylinder, in attenuating the hydrodynamic forces and dynamic overturning moments, are analyzed for various cylinder configurations and wave characteristics. A parametric study with respect to wave frequency, ratios of inner-to-outer cylinder radii, annular spacing between the two cylinders and porosities is done. In order to understand the flow distribution around the cylinders, contour plots are provided. The findings of the present study are likely to be of immense help in the design of various types of marine structures which can withstand the wave loads of varied nature in the marine environment. The theory can be easily extended to deal with a large class of problems associated with acoustic wave interaction with flexible porous structures.

Numerical analysis of two and three dimensional buoyancy driven water-exit of a circular cylinder

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Moshari, Shahab; Nikseresht, Amir Hossein; Mehryar, Reza

2014-06-01

With the development of the technology of underwater moving bodies, the need for developing the knowledge of surface effect interaction of free surface and underwater moving bodies is increased. Hence, the two-phase flow is a subject which is interesting for many researchers all around the world. In this paper, the non-linear free surface deformations which occur during the water-exit of a circular cylinder due to its buoyancy are solved using finite volume discretization based code, and using Volume of Fluid (VOF) scheme for solving two phase flow. Dynamic mesh model is used to simulate dynamic motion of the cylinder. In addition, the effect of cylinder mass in presence of an external force is studied. Moreover, the oblique exit and entry of a circular cylinder with two exit angles is simulated. At last, water-exit of a circular cylinder in six degrees of freedom is simulated in 3D using parallel processing. The simulation errors of present work (using VOF method) for maximum velocity and height of a circular cylinder are less than the corresponding errors of level set method reported by previous researchers. Oblique exit shows interesting results; formation of waves caused by exit of the cylinder, wave motion in horizontal direction and the air trapped between the waves are observable. In 3D simulation the visualization of water motion on the top surface of the cylinder and the free surface breaking on the front and back faces of the 3D cylinder at the exit phase are observed which cannot be seen in 2D simulation. Comparing the results, 3D simulation shows better agreement with experimental data, specially in the maximum height position of the cylinder.

Hamiltonian models for the propagation of irrotational surface gravity waves over a variable bottom.

PubMed

Compelli, A; Ivanov, R; Todorov, M

2018-01-28

A single incompressible, inviscid, irrotational fluid medium bounded by a free surface and varying bottom is considered. The Hamiltonian of the system is expressed in terms of the so-called Dirichlet-Neumann operators. The equations for the surface waves are presented in Hamiltonian form. Specific scaling of the variables is selected which leads to approximations of Boussinesq and Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) types, taking into account the effect of the slowly varying bottom. The arising KdV equation with variable coefficients is studied numerically when the initial condition is in the form of the one-soliton solution for the initial depth.This article is part of the theme issue 'Nonlinear water waves'. © 2017 The Author(s).

Characterisation of High Grazing Angle X-band Sea-clutter Doppler Spectra

DTIC Science & Technology

2013-08-01

0397 2 Background The ocean surface is a highly complex dynamical system and relating Doppler spectra to surface conditions is a difficult problem...1966] then extended this theory to water and classified it as a ‘slightly rough’ surface. He showed that the scattering elements of primary importance...incidence field. This is the definition for the Bragg water -wave propagation number defined in the spatial frequency domain as kw = 2k0 cos θ, where

Non destructive testing of concrete nuclear containment plants with surface waves: Lab experiment on decimeter slabs and on the VeRCoRs mock-up

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Abraham, Odile; Legland, Jean-Baptiste; Durand, Olivier; Hénault, Jean-Marie; Garnier, Vincent

2018-04-01

The maintenance and evaluation of concrete nuclear containment walls is a major concern as they must, in case of an accident, ensure the confinement of the nuclear radiations and resist to the loads. A homemade multi-receiver multi-source dry contact linear probe to record ultrasonic surface waves on concrete in the frequency range [60 kHz - 200 kHz] has been used in this context. The measurement protocol includes the summation of up to 50 spatially distributed seismograms and the determination of the surface waves phase velocity dispersion curve. The probe has been tested against several concrete states under no loading (water saturation level, temperature damage). Then, the same measurements have been performed on sound and fire damaged slabs submitted to uniaxial loading (stress up to 30 % of the concrete compression resistance). It is shown that the robustness and precision of the surface waves measurement protocol make it possible to follow the stress level. In March 2017 a first experiment with this surface wave probe has been conducted on a reduced 1:3 scale nuclear containment plant (EDF VeRCoRs mock-up) under loading conditions that replicates that of decennial inspection. The surface wave phase velocity dispersion curves of each state are compared and cross-validated with other NDT results.

Assessing sea wave and spray effects on Marine Boundary Layer structure

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Stathopoulos, Christos; Galanis, George; Patlakas, Platon; Kallos, George

2017-04-01

Air sea interface is characterized by several mechanical and thermodynamical processes. Heat, moisture and momentum exchanges increase the complexity in modeling the atmospheric-ocean system. Near surface atmospheric levels are subject to sea surface roughness and sea spray. Sea spray fluxes can affect atmospheric stability and induce microphysical processes such as sea salt particle formation and condensation/evaporation of water in the boundary layer. Moreover, presence of sea spray can alter stratification over the ocean surface with further insertion of water vapor. This can lead to modified stability conditions and to wind profiles that deviate significantly from the logarithmic approximation. To model these effects, we introduce a fully coupled system consisting of the mesoscale atmospheric model RAMS/ICLAMS and the wave model WAM. The system encompasses schemes for ocean surface roughness, sea salt aerosols and droplet thermodynamic processes and handles sea salt as predictive quantity. Numerical experiments using the developed atmospheric-ocean system are performed over the Atlantic and Mediterranean shoreline. Emphasis is given to the quantification of the improvement obtained in the description of the marine boundary layer, particularly in its lower part as well as in wave characteristics.

Effect of multipath laser shock processing on microhardness, surface roughness, and wear resistance of 2024-T3 Al alloy.

PubMed

Kadhim, Abdulhadi; Salim, Evan T; Fayadh, Saeed M; Al-Amiery, Ahmed A; Kadhum, Abdul Amir H; Mohamad, Abu Bakar

2014-01-01

Laser shock processing (LSP) is an innovative surface treatment technique with high peak power, short pulse, and cold hardening for strengthening metal materials. LSP is based on the application of a high intensity pulsed laser beam (I > 1 GW/cm(2); t < 50 ns) at the interface between the metallic target and the surrounding medium (a transparent confining material, normally water) forcing a sudden vaporization of the metallic surface into a high temperature and density plasma that immediately develops inducing a shock wave propagating into the material. The shock wave induces plastic deformation and a residual stress distribution in the target material. In this paper we study the increase of microhardness and surface roughness with the increase of laser pulse energy in 2024-T3 Al alloy. The influence of the thickness of the confining layer (water) on microhardness and surface roughness is also studied. In addition, the effect of LSP treatment with best conditions on wear behaviors of the alloy was investigated.

Delineation of a collapse feature in a noisy environment using a multichannel surface wave technique

USGS Publications Warehouse

Xia, J.; Chen, C.; Li, P.H.; Lewis, M.J.

2004-01-01

A collapse developed at Calvert Cliffs Nuclear Power Plant, Maryland, in early 2001. The location of the collapse was over a groundwater drainage system pipe buried at an elevation of +0??9 m (reference is to Chesapeake Bay level). The cause of the collapse was a subsurface drain pipe that collapsed because of saltwater corrosion of the corrugated metal pipe. The inflow/outflow of sea water and groundwater flow caused soil to be removed from the area where the pipe collapsed. To prevent damage to nearby structures, the collapse was quickly filled with uncompacted sand and gravel (???36000 kg). However, the plant had an immediate need to determine whether more underground voids existed. A high-frequency multichannel surface-wave survey technique was conducted to define the zone affected by the collapse. Although the surface-wave survey at Calvert Cliffs Nuclear Power Plant was conducted at a noise level 50-100 times higher than the normal environment for a shallow seismic survey, the shear (S)-wave velocity field calculated from surface-wave data delineated a possible zone affected by the collapse. The S-wave velocity field showed chimney-shaped low-velocity anomalies that were directly related to the collapse. Based on S-wave velocity field maps, a potential zone affected by the collapse was tentatively defined.

Acoustic gravity microseismic pressure signal at shallow stations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Peureux, Charles; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Royer, Jean-Yves

2017-04-01

It has been known for decades that the background permanent seismic noise, the so-called microseimic signal, is generated by the nonlinear interaction of oppositely travelling ocean surface waves [Longuet-Higgins 1951]. It can especially be used to infer the time variability of short ocean waves statistics [Peureux and Ardhuin 2016]. However, better quantitative estimates of the latter are made difficult due to a poor knowledge of the Earth's crust characteristics, whose coupling with acoustic modes can affect large uncertainties to the frequency response at the bottom of the ocean. The pressure field at depths less than an acoustic wave length to the surface is made of evanescent acoustic-gravity modes [Cox and Jacobs 1989]. For this reason, they are less affected by the ocean bottom composition. This near field is recorded and analyzed in the frequency range 0.1 to 0.5 Hz approximately, at two locations : at a shallow site in the North-East Atlantic continental shelf and a deep water site in the Southern Indian ocean, at the ocean bottom and 100 m below sea-surface and in the upper part of the water column respectively. Evanescent and propagating Rayleigh modes are compared against theoretical predictions. Comparisons against surface waves hindcast based on WAVEWATCH(R) III modelling framework help assessing its performances and can be used to help future model improvements. References Longuet-Higgins, M. S., A Theory of the Origin of Microseisms, Philos. Trans. Royal Soc. A, The Royal Society, 1950, 243, 1-3. Peureux, C. and Ardhuin, F., Ocean bottom pressure records from the Cascadia array and short surface gravity waves, J. Geophys. Res. Oceans, 2016, 121, 2862-2873. Cox, C. S. & Jacobs, D. C., Cartesian diver observations of double frequency pressure fluctuations in the upper levels of the ocean, Geophys. Res. Lett., 1989, 16, 807-810.

Determining wave direction using curvature parameters.

PubMed

de Queiroz, Eduardo Vitarelli; de Carvalho, João Luiz Baptista

2016-01-01

The curvature of the sea wave was tested as a parameter for estimating wave direction in the search for better results in estimates of wave direction in shallow waters, where waves of different sizes, frequencies and directions intersect and it is difficult to characterize. We used numerical simulations of the sea surface to determine wave direction calculated from the curvature of the waves. Using 1000 numerical simulations, the statistical variability of the wave direction was determined. The results showed good performance by the curvature parameter for estimating wave direction. Accuracy in the estimates was improved by including wave slope parameters in addition to curvature. The results indicate that the curvature is a promising technique to estimate wave directions.•In this study, the accuracy and precision of curvature parameters to measure wave direction are analyzed using a model simulation that generates 1000 wave records with directional resolution.•The model allows the simultaneous simulation of time-series wave properties such as sea surface elevation, slope and curvature and they were used to analyze the variability of estimated directions.•The simultaneous acquisition of slope and curvature parameters can contribute to estimates wave direction, thus increasing accuracy and precision of results.

Winds, waves and shorelines from ancient martian seas

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Banfield, Don; Donelan, Mark; Cavaleri, Luigi

2015-04-01

We consider under what environmental conditions water waves (and thus eventually shorelines) should be expected to be produced on hypothetical ancient martian seas and lakes. For winds and atmospheric pressures that are too small, no waves should be expected, and thus no shorelines. If the winds and atmospheric pressure are above some threshold, then waves can be formed, and shorelines are possible. We establish these criteria separating conditions under which waves will or will not form on an ancient martian open body of water. We consider not only atmospheric pressure and wind, but also temperature and salinity, but find these latter effects to be secondary. The normal criterion for the onset of water waves under terrestrial conditions is extended to recognize the greater atmospheric viscous boundary layer depth for low atmospheric pressures. We used terrestrial wave models to predict the wave environment expected for reasonable ranges of atmospheric pressure and wind for end-member cases of ocean salinity. These models were modified only to reflect the different fluids considered at Mars, the different martian surface gravity, and the varying atmospheric pressure, wind and fetch. The models were favorably validated against one another, and also against experiments conducted in a wave tank in a pressure controlled wind tunnel (NASA Ames MARSWIT). We conclude that if wave-cut shorelines can be confirmed on Mars, this can constrain the range of possible atmospheric pressures and wind speeds that could have existed when the open water was present on Mars.

Quantification of Stokes Drift as a Mechanism for Surface Oil Advection in the DWH Oil Spill

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Clark, M.

2013-12-01

Stokes drift has previously been qualitatively shown to be a factor in ocean surface particle transport, but has never been comprehensively quantified. In addition, most operational ocean particle advection models used during the Deepwater Horizon oil spill do not explicitly account for Stokes drift, instead using a simple parameterization based on wind drift (or ignoring it completely). This research works to quantify Stokes drift via direct calculation, with a focus on shallow water, where Stokes drift is more likely to have a relatively large impact compared to other transport processes such as ocean currents. For this study, WaveWatch III modeled waves in the Gulf of Mexico are used, from which Stokes drift is calculated using the peak wave period and significant wave height outputs. Trajectories are also calculated to examine the role Stokes drift plays in bringing surface particles (and specifically surface oil slicks) onshore. The impact of Stokes drift is compared to transport by currents and traditional estimates of wind drift.

Wave trapping by dual porous barriers near a wall in the presence of bottom undulation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kaligatla, R. B.; Manisha; Sahoo, T.

2017-09-01

Trapping of oblique surface gravity waves by dual porous barriers near a wall is studied in the presence of step type varying bottom bed that is connected on both sides by water of uniform depths. The porous barriers are assumed to be fixed at a certain distance in front of a vertical rigid wall. Using linear water wave theory and Darcy's law for flow past porous structure, the physical problem is converted into a boundary value problem. Using eigenfunction expansion in the uniform bottom bed region and modified mild-slope equation in the varying bottom bed region, the mathematical problem is handled for solution. Moreover, certain jump conditions are used to account for mass conservation at slope discontinuities in the bottom bed profile. To understand the effect of dual porous barriers in creating tranquility zone and minimum load on the sea wall, reflection coefficient, wave forces acting on the barrier and the wall, and surface wave elevation are computed and analyzed for different values of depth ratio, porous-effect parameter, incident wave angle, gap between the barriers and wall and slope length of undulated bottom. The study reveals that with moderate porosity and suitable gap between barriers and sea wall, using dual barriers an effective wave trapping system can be developed which will exert less wave force on the barriers and the rigid wall. The proposed wave trapping system is likely to be of immense help for protecting various facilities/ infrastructures in coastal environment.

Identification and classification of very low frequency waves on a coral reef flat

USGS Publications Warehouse

Gawehn, Matthijs; van Dongeran, Ap; van Rooijen, Arnold; Storlazzi, Curt; Cheriton, Olivia; Reniers, Ad

2016-01-01

Very low frequency (VLF, 0.001–0.005 Hz) waves are important drivers of flooding of low-lying coral reef-islands. In particular, VLF wave resonance is known to drive large wave runup and subsequent overwash. Using a 5 month data set of water levels and waves collected along a cross-reef transect on Roi-Namur Island in the Republic of the Marshall Islands, the observed VLF motions were categorized into four different classes: (1) resonant, (2) (nonresonant) standing, (3) progressive-growing, and (4) progressive-dissipative waves. Each VLF class is set by the reef flat water depth and, in the case of resonance, the incident-band offshore wave period. Using an improved method to identify VLF wave resonance, we find that VLF wave resonance caused prolonged (∼0.5–6.0 h), large-amplitude water surface oscillations at the inner reef flat ranging in wave height from 0.14 to 0.83 m. It was induced by relatively long-period, grouped, incident-band waves, and occurred under both storm and nonstorm conditions. Moreover, observed resonant VLF waves had nonlinear, bore-like wave shapes, which likely have a larger impact on the shoreline than regular, sinusoidal waveforms. As an alternative technique to the commonly used Fast Fourier Transformation, we propose the Hilbert-Huang Transformation that is more computationally expensive but can capture the wave shape more accurately. This research demonstrates that understanding VLF waves on reef flats is important for evaluating coastal flooding hazards.

Identification and classification of very low frequency waves on a coral reef flat

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gawehn, Matthijs; van Dongeren, Ap; van Rooijen, Arnold; Storlazzi, Curt D.; Cheriton, Olivia M.; Reniers, Ad

2016-10-01

Very low frequency (VLF, 0.001-0.005 Hz) waves are important drivers of flooding of low-lying coral reef-islands. In particular, VLF wave resonance is known to drive large wave runup and subsequent overwash. Using a 5 month data set of water levels and waves collected along a cross-reef transect on Roi-Namur Island in the Republic of the Marshall Islands, the observed VLF motions were categorized into four different classes: (1) resonant, (2) (nonresonant) standing, (3) progressive-growing, and (4) progressive-dissipative waves. Each VLF class is set by the reef flat water depth and, in the case of resonance, the incident-band offshore wave period. Using an improved method to identify VLF wave resonance, we find that VLF wave resonance caused prolonged (˜0.5-6.0 h), large-amplitude water surface oscillations at the inner reef flat ranging in wave height from 0.14 to 0.83 m. It was induced by relatively long-period, grouped, incident-band waves, and occurred under both storm and nonstorm conditions. Moreover, observed resonant VLF waves had nonlinear, bore-like wave shapes, which likely have a larger impact on the shoreline than regular, sinusoidal waveforms. As an alternative technique to the commonly used Fast Fourier Transformation, we propose the Hilbert-Huang Transformation that is more computationally expensive but can capture the wave shape more accurately. This research demonstrates that understanding VLF waves on reef flats is important for evaluating coastal flooding hazards.

An Investigation of the Influence of Waves on Sediment Processes in Skagit Bay

DTIC Science & Technology

2011-09-30

source term parameterizations common to most surface wave models, including wave generation by wind , energy dissipation from whitecapping, and...I. Total energy and peak frequency. Coastal Engineering (29), 47-78. Zijlema, M. Computation of wind -wave spectra in coastal waters with SWAN on unstructured grids Coastal Engineering, 2010, 57, 267-277 ...supply and wind on tidal flat sediment transport. It will be used to evaluate the capabilities of state-of-the-art open source sediment models and to

Calculating wave-generated bottom orbital velocities from surface-wave parameters

USGS Publications Warehouse

Wiberg, P.L.; Sherwood, C.R.

2008-01-01

Near-bed wave orbital velocities and shear stresses are important parameters in many sediment-transport and hydrodynamic models of the coastal ocean, estuaries, and lakes. Simple methods for estimating bottom orbital velocities from surface-wave statistics such as significant wave height and peak period often are inaccurate except in very shallow water. This paper briefly reviews approaches for estimating wave-generated bottom orbital velocities from near-bed velocity data, surface-wave spectra, and surface-wave parameters; MATLAB code for each approach is provided. Aspects of this problem have been discussed elsewhere. We add to this work by providing a method for using a general form of the parametric surface-wave spectrum to estimate bottom orbital velocity from significant wave height and peak period, investigating effects of spectral shape on bottom orbital velocity, comparing methods for calculating bottom orbital velocity against values determined from near-bed velocity measurements at two sites on the US east and west coasts, and considering the optimal representation of bottom orbital velocity for calculations of near-bed processes. Bottom orbital velocities calculated using near-bed velocity data, measured wave spectra, and parametric spectra for a site on the northern California shelf and one in the mid-Atlantic Bight compare quite well and are relatively insensitive to spectral shape except when bimodal waves are present with maximum energy at the higher-frequency peak. These conditions, which are most likely to occur at times when bottom orbital velocities are small, can be identified with our method as cases where the measured wave statistics are inconsistent with Donelan's modified form of the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) spectrum. We define the 'effective' forcing for wave-driven, near-bed processes as the product of the magnitude of forcing times its probability of occurrence, and conclude that different bottom orbital velocity statistics may be appropriate for different problems. ?? 2008 Elsevier Ltd.

Meteorite impact in the ocean

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Strelitz, R.

1979-01-01

In the present study, the dynamic of hypervelocity impacts and crater formation in water are examined with allowance for the unique properties of water. More precisely, the transient crater calculated is permitted to relax and act as a source of oceanic surface waves.

A laboratory study of nonlinear changes in the directionality of extreme seas

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Latheef, M.; Swan, C.; Spinneken, J.

2017-03-01

This paper concerns the description of surface water waves, specifically nonlinear changes in the directionality. Supporting calculations are provided to establish the best method of directional wave generation, the preferred method of directional analysis and the inputs on which such a method should be based. These calculations show that a random directional method, in which the phasing, amplitude and direction of propagation of individual wave components are chosen randomly, has benefits in achieving the required ergodicity. In terms of analysis procedures, the extended maximum entropy principle, with inputs based upon vector quantities, produces the best description of directionality. With laboratory data describing the water surface elevation and the two horizontal velocity components at a single point, several steep sea states are considered. The results confirm that, as the steepness of a sea state increases, the overall directionality of the sea state reduces. More importantly, it is also shown that the largest waves become less spread or more unidirectional than the sea state as a whole. This provides an important link to earlier descriptions of deterministic wave groups produced by frequency focusing, helps to explain recent field observations and has important practical implications for the design of marine structures and vessels.

Passive monitoring of a sea dike during a tidal cycle using sea waves as a seismic noise source

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Joubert, Anaëlle; Feuvre, Mathieu Le; Cote, Philippe

2018-05-01

Over the past decade, ambient seismic noise has been used successfully to monitor various geological objects with high accuracy. Recently, it has been shown that surface seismic waves propagating within a sea dike body can be retrieved from the cross-correlation of ambient seismic noise generated by sea waves. We use sea wave impacts to monitor the response of a sea dike during a tidal cycle using empirical Green's functions. These are obtained either by cross-correlation or deconvolution, from signals recorded by sensors installed linearly on the crest of a dike. Our analysis is based on delay and spectral amplitude measurements performed on reconstructed surface waves propagating along the array. We show that localized variations of velocity and attenuation are correlated with changes in water level as a probable consequence of water infiltration inside the structure. Sea dike monitoring is of critical importance for safety and economic reasons, as internal erosion is generally only detected at late stages by visual observations. The method proposed here may provide a solution for detecting structural weaknesses, monitoring progressive internal erosion, and delineating areas of interest for further geotechnical studies, in view to understanding the erosion mechanisms involved.

Rogue Wave Modes for the Long Wave-Short Wave Resonance and the Derivative Nonlinear Schrödinger Models

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Chan, Hiu Ning; Chow, Kwok Wing; Kedziora, David Jacob; Grimshaw, Roger Hamilton James; Ding, Edwin

2014-11-01

Rogue waves are unexpectedly large displacements of the water surface and will obviously pose threat to maritime activities. Recently, the formation of rogue waves is correlated with the onset of modulation instabilities of plane waves of the system. The long wave-short wave resonance and the derivative nonlinear Schrödinger models are considered. They are relevant in a two-layer fluid and a fourth order perturbation expansion of free surface waves respectively. Analytical solutions of rogue wave modes for the two models are derived by the Hirota bilinear method. Properties and amplitudes of these rogue wave modes are investigated. Conditions for modulation instability of the plane waves are shown to be precisely the requirements for the occurrence of rogue waves. In contrast with the nonlinear Schrödinger equation, rogue wave modes for the derivative nonlinear Schrödinger model exist even if the dispersion and cubic nonlinearity are of the opposite signs, provided that a sufficiently strong self-steepening nonlinearity is present. Extensions to the coupled case (multiple waveguides) will be discussed. This work is partially supported by the Research Grants Council General Research Fund Contract HKU 711713E.

Nonlinear fractional waves at elastic interfaces

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kappler, Julian; Shrivastava, Shamit; Schneider, Matthias F.; Netz, Roland R.

2017-11-01

We derive the nonlinear fractional surface wave equation that governs compression waves at an elastic interface that is coupled to a viscous bulk medium. The fractional character of the differential equation comes from the fact that the effective thickness of the bulk layer that is coupled to the interface is frequency dependent. The nonlinearity arises from the nonlinear dependence of the interface compressibility on the local compression, which is obtained from experimental measurements and reflects a phase transition at the interface. Numerical solutions of our nonlinear fractional theory reproduce several experimental key features of surface waves in phospholipid monolayers at the air-water interface without freely adjustable fitting parameters. In particular, the propagation distance of the surface wave abruptly increases at a threshold excitation amplitude. The wave velocity is found to be of the order of 40 cm/s in both experiments and theory and slightly increases as a function of the excitation amplitude. Nonlinear acoustic switching effects in membranes are thus shown to arise purely based on intrinsic membrane properties, namely, the presence of compressibility nonlinearities that accompany phase transitions at the interface.

Groundwater-Surface Water Interaction: A Case Study of Embankment Dam Safety Assessment in Sweden.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ferdos, F.; Dargahi, B.

2015-12-01

Seepage, when excessive and unimpeded, can cause embankment dam failure. Such failures are often initiated by internal erosion and piping. Modelling these phenomena in embankment dams, accounting for the groundwater-surface water interactions, is crucial when performing dam safety assessments. The aim of this study was to evaluate the applicability of modelling seepage flows in multi-region dams using a finite element based multi-physics model. The model was applied to the Trängslet dam, the largest dam in Sweden. The objectives were to analyze the characteristics of both the flow and the surface-ground water interactions occurring in the dam, including: i) the saturated and unsaturated laminar flow regimes within the dam body, ii) the non-linear through-flow in the dam shoulders' coarse material, iii) the influence of the surface waves in the reservoir on the seepage flow by coupling the physics to a hydrodynamic interface, and iv) the influence of a conceptual "erosion tunnel" on the seepage flow and its interaction with the surface water flow by coupling the physics to a CFD interface. The focus of the study was on the influence of the transient water head boundary condition, surface waves and the internal erosion tunnel on the location of the phreatic line and the seepage flow rate. The simulated seepage flow of the dam in its original condition tallied with the monitoring measurements (40-70 l/s). The main feature found was the relatively high position of the phreatic line, which could compromise the stability of the dam. The combination of the seepage model with the reservoir hydrodynamics indicated a negligible influence of the surface waves on seepage flow. Results from the combination of the seepage model with fluid dynamics indicated that a conceptual "erosion tunnel" placed within the dam, even as high as in the unsaturated zone, significantly affects the phreatic line's position. This also causes the seepage flow to increase by several orders of magnitude, resulting in non-linear turbulent flow regimes in the downstream shoulder of the dam and, ultimately, dam failure. While the modelling was limited by a lack of reliable geometrical and geotechnical data, the results of the study do highlight the importance of including groundwater-surface water interactions in dam safety assessments.

Modelling of upper ocean mixing by wave-induced turbulence

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ghantous, Malek; Babanin, Alexander

2013-04-01

Mixing of the upper ocean affects the sea surface temperature by bringing deeper, colder water to the surface. Because even small changes in the surface temperature can have a large impact on weather and climate, accurately determining the rate of mixing is of central importance for forecasting. Although there are several mixing mechanisms, one that has until recently been overlooked is the effect of turbulence generated by non-breaking, wind-generated surface waves. Lately there has been a lot of interest in introducing this mechanism into models, and real gains have been made in terms of increased fidelity to observational data. However our knowledge of the mechanism is still incomplete. We indicate areas where we believe the existing models need refinement and propose an alternative model. We use two of the models to demonstrate the effect on the mixed layer of wave-induced turbulence by applying them to a one-dimensional mixing model and a stable temperature profile. Our modelling experiment suggests a strong effect on sea surface temperature due to non-breaking wave-induced turbulent mixing.

One-dimensional modelling of upper ocean mixing by turbulence due to wave orbital motion

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ghantous, M.; Babanin, A. V.

2014-02-01

Mixing of the upper ocean affects the sea surface temperature by bringing deeper, colder water to the surface. Because even small changes in the surface temperature can have a large impact on weather and climate, accurately determining the rate of mixing is of central importance for forecasting. Although there are several mixing mechanisms, one that has until recently been overlooked is the effect of turbulence generated by non-breaking, wind-generated surface waves. Lately there has been a lot of interest in introducing this mechanism into ocean mixing models, and real gains have been made in terms of increased fidelity to observational data. However, our knowledge of the mechanism is still incomplete. We indicate areas where we believe the existing parameterisations need refinement and propose an alternative one. We use two of the parameterisations to demonstrate the effect on the mixed layer of wave-induced turbulence by applying them to a one-dimensional mixing model and a stable temperature profile. Our modelling experiment suggests a strong effect on sea surface temperature due to non-breaking wave-induced turbulent mixing.

Experimental investigation of the sloshing motion of the water free surface in the draft tube of a Francis turbine operating in synchronous condenser mode

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Vagnoni, Elena; Favrel, Arthur; Andolfatto, Loïc; Avellan, François

2018-06-01

Hydropower units may be required to operate in condenser mode to supply reactive power. In this operating mode, the water level in the turbine or pump-turbine is decreased below the runner by closing the guide vanes and injecting pressurized air. While operating in condenser mode the machine experiences power losses due to several air-water interaction phenomena which cause air losses. One of such phenomena is the sloshing motion of the water free surface below the runner in the draft tube cone of a Francis turbine. The objective of the present work is to experimentally investigate the sloshing motion of the water free surface in the draft tube cone of a reduced scale physical model of a Francis turbine operating in condenser mode. Images acquisition and simultaneous pressure fluctuation measurements are performed and an image processing method is developed to investigate amplitude and frequency of the sloshing motion of the free surface. It is found that this motion is excited at the natural frequency of the water volume and corresponds to the azimuthal wavenumber m = 1 of a rotating gravity wave. The amplitude of the motion is perturbed by wave breaking and it decreases by increasing the densimetric Froude number. The sloshing frequency slightly increases with respect to the natural frequency of the water volume by increasing the densimetric Froude number. Moreover, it results that this resonant phenomenon is not related to the torque perturbation.

The Ocean`s Thermohaline Circulation in a Fish Tank

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lavender, K.; Joyce, P.; Graziano, L.; Harris, S.; Jaroslow, G.; Lea, C.; Schell, J.; Witting, J.

2005-12-01

This demonstration develops intuition about density stratification, a concept critical to understanding the ocean`s thermohaline circulation. In addition, students learn how temperature and salinity affect density, how these characteristics may be density-compensating, and students gain practice in graphing and interpreting vertical profiles and temperature-salinity (T-S) diagrams. The demonstration requires a rectangular fish tank (5-10 gallons) with a plexiglass partition, preparation of three colored ''water masses'' representing surface water (warm and fresh), ''mystery'' Mediterranean Water (warm and salty), and North Atlantic Deep Water (NADW; cold and salty), a kitchen sponge, and a temperature and salinity probe. Density may be computed using an Equation of State calculator (e.g. online version at http://fermi.jhuapl.edu/denscalc.html). The larger side of the fish tank is filled halfway with NADW, then surface water is layered on top by carefully pouring it on a floating sponge. A student volunteer measures the temperature and salinity of the two water masses, while another computes the densities. Students draw vertical profiles and T-S diagrams representing the temperature, salinity, and density of the water column. The properties of the ''mystery'' water are measured and students predict what will happen when the water is poured on the opposite side of the partition and is allowed to overflow into the layered water. If the density gradients are sufficiently large, a beautiful internal wave develops as the mystery water overflows the sill and becomes intermediate Mediterranean Water. If time permits, having a student blow on the surface illustrates the limited influence of ''wind'' with depth; an internal wave may by forced by depressing the thermocline with a large, flat spoon; and pouring extra NADW on the sponge floating at the surface may illustrate deep convection.

Flume experiments on wind induced flow in static water bodies in the presence of protruding vegetation

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Banerjee, Tirtha; Muste, Marian; Katul, Gabriel

2015-02-01

The problem of wind-induced flow in inland waters is drawing significant research attention given its relevance to a plethora of applications in wetlands including treatment designs, pollution reduction, and biogeochemical cycling. The present work addresses the role of wind induced turbulence and waves within an otherwise static water body in the presence of rigid and flexible emergent vegetation through flume experimentation and time series analysis. Because no prior example of Particle Imaging Velocimetry (PIV) experiments involving air-water and flexible oscillating components have been found in the literature, a spectral analysis framework is needed and proposed here to guide the analysis involving noise, wave and turbulence separation. The experiments reveal that wave and turbulence effects are simultaneously produced at the air-water interface and the nature of their coexistence is found to vary with different flow parameters including water level, mean wind speed, vegetation density and its flexibility. For deep water levels, signature of fine-scaled inertial turbulence is found at deeper layers of the water system. The wave action appears stronger close to the air-water interface and damped by the turbulence deeper inside the water system. As expected, wave action is found to be dominated in a certain frequency range driven by the wind forcing, while it is also diffused to lower frequencies by means of (wind-induced) oscillations in vegetation. Regarding the mean water velocity, existence of a counter-current flow and its switching to fully forward flow in the direction of the wind under certain combinations of flow parameters were studied. The relative importance of wave and turbulence to the overall energy, degree of anisotropy in the turbulent energy components, and turbulent momentum transport at different depths from the air-water interface and flow combinations were then quantified. The flume experiments reported here differ from previous laboratory studies in the related literature involving vegetation in the sense that the wave forcing is only present on the water surface contrary to a full-body excitation by tidal wave simulators and thus important in advancing the knowledge regarding a wider range of water resource problems.

Impact location of objects hitting the water surface

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kadri, Usama

2017-04-01

Analysis of data, recorded on March 8th 2014 at the Comprehensive Test ban Treaty Organisation's hydroacoustic station off Cape Leeuwin Western Australia, reveal pressure signatures of objects impacting at the sea surface which could be associated with falling meteorites as well as the missing Malaysian MH370 airplane. The location of the sources are identified analytically by an inverse solution based on acoustic-gravity wave theory (e.g. see references below) which have been developed and validated experimentally. Apart from the direct contribution to the search efforts after the missing airplane, the method we describe here is very efficient for identifying the location of sources that result in a sudden change in the water pressure in general. References 1. T.Yamamoto,1982.Gravity waves and acoustic waves generated by submarine earthquakes, Soil Dyn. Earthquake Eng., 1, 75-82. 2. M. Stiassnie, 2010. Tsunamis and acoustic-gravity waves from underwater earthquakes, J. Eng. Math., 67, 23-32, doi:10.1007/s10665-009-9323-x. 3. U. Kadri and M. Staissnie, 2012. Acoustic-gravity waves interacting with the shelf break. J. Geophys. Res., 117, C03035, doi: 10.1029/2011JC007674. 4. E. Eyov, A. Klar, U. Kadri and M. Stiassnie, 2013. Progressive waves in a compressible ocean with elastic bottom, Wave Motion 50, 929-939. doi: 10.1016/j.wavemoti.2013.03.003 5. G. Hendin and M. Stiassnie, 2013. Tsunami and acoustic-gravity waves in water of constant depth, Phys. Fluids 25, 086103, doi: 10.1063/1.481799. 6. U. Kadri, 2016. Acoustic-gravity waves from an oscillating ice-block in arctic zones. Advances in Acoustics and Vibration, 8076108, http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2016/8076108 7. T.C.A. Oliveira, U. Kadri, 2016. Acoustic-gravity waves from the 2004 Indian Ocean earthquake and tsunami. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans. doi: 10.1002/2016JC011742

3D Numerical Simulation on the Sloshing Waves Excited by the Seismic Shacking

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zhang, Lin; Wu, Tso-Ren

2016-04-01

In the event of 2015 Nepal earthquake, a video clip broadcasted worldwide showed a violent water spilling in a hotel swimming pool. This sloshing phenomenon indicates a potential water loss in the sensitive facilities, e.g. the spent fuel pools in nuclear power plant, has to be taken into account carefully under the consideration of seismic-induced ground acceleration. In the previous studies, the simulation of sloshing mainly focused on the pressure force on the structure by using a simplified Spring-Mass Method developed in the field of solid mechanics. However, restricted by the assumptions of plane water surface and limited wave height, significant error will be made in evaluating the amount of water loss in the tank. In this paper, the computational fluid dynamical model, Splash3D, was adopted for studying the sloshing problem accurately. Splash3D solved 3D Navier-Stokes Equation directly with Large-Eddy Simulation (LES) turbulent closure. The Volume-of-fluid (VOF) method with piecewise linear interface calculation (PLIC) was used to track the complex breaking water surface. The time series acceleration of a design seismic was loaded to excite the water. With few restrictions from the assumptions, the accuracy of the simulation results were improved dramatically. A series model validations were conducted by compared to a 2D theoretical solution, and a 3D experimental data. Good comparisons can be seen. After the validation, we performed the simulation for considering a sloshing case in a rectangular water tank with a dimension of 12 m long, 8 m wide, 8 m deep, which contained water with 7 m in depth. The seismic movement was imported by considering time-series acceleration in three dimensions, which were about 0.5 g to 1.2 g in the horizontal directions, and 0.3 g to 1 g in the vertical direction. We focused the discussions on the kinematics of the water surface, wave breaking, velocity field, pressure field, water force on the side walls, and, most importantly, the amount of water loosed in the event. The simulated water movement excited by the seismic acceleration was visually similar to the video clip mentioned before. From the simulation results, we observed that the water was mainly leaked at the corner of the water tank with a nonlinear curve of the free-surface. This phenomenon can't be found in the conventional studies with acceleration in a sole direction. We also studied the effect from a porous body placed on the lower part of the tank. Detailed results and discussion will be presented in the full paper. Keywords Sloshing, Splash3D, LES, Breaking waves, VOF, spent fuel pool, Nuclear power plant

Preliminary Analysis of a Submerged Wave Energy Device

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wagner, J. R.; Wagner, J. J.; Hayatdavoodi, M.; Ertekin, R. C.

2016-02-01

Preliminary analysis of a submerged wave energy harvesting device is presented. The device is composed of a thin, horizontally submerged plate that is restricted to heave oscillations under the influence of surface waves. The submerged plate is oscillating, and it can be attached to a fixed rotor, or a piston, to harvest the wave energy. A fully submerged wave energy converter is preferred over a surface energy convertor due to its durability and less visual and physical distractions it presents. In this study, the device is subject to nonlinear shallow-water waves. Wave loads on the submerged oscillating plate are obtained via the Level I Green-Naghdi equations. The unsteady motion of the plate is obtained by solving the nonlinear equations of motion. The results are obtained for a range of waves with varying heights and periods. The amplitude and period of plate oscillations are analyzed as functions of the wave parameters and plate width. Particular attention is given to the selection of the site of desired wave field. Initial estimation on the amount of energy extraction from the device, located near shore at a given site, is provided.

A nanowire based triboelectric nanogenerator for harvesting water wave energy and its applications

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Li, Xiaoyi; Tao, Juan; Zhu, Jing; Pan, Caofeng

2017-07-01

The ocean wave energy is one of the most promising renewable and clean energy sources for human life, which is the so-called "Blue energy." In this work, a nanowire based triboelectric nanogenerator was designed for harvesting wave energy. The nanowires on the surface of FEP largely raise the contacting area with water and also make the polymer film hydrophobic. The output can reach 10 μ A and 200 V. When combined with a capacitor, an infrared emitter, and a receiver, a self-powered wireless infrared system is fabricated, which can be used in the fields of communication and detecting.

On the Wind Generation of Water Waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Bühler, Oliver; Shatah, Jalal; Walsh, Samuel; Zeng, Chongchun

2016-11-01

In this work, we consider the mathematical theory of wind generated water waves. This entails determining the stability properties of the family of laminar flow solutions to the two-phase interface Euler equation. We present a rigorous derivation of the linearized evolution equations about an arbitrary steady solution, and, using this, we give a complete proof of the instability criterion of M iles [16]. Our analysis is valid even in the presence of surface tension and a vortex sheet (discontinuity in the tangential velocity across the air-sea interface). We are thus able to give a unified equation connecting the Kelvin-Helmholtz and quasi-laminar models of wave generation.

Rotational superradiant scattering in a vortex flow

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Torres, Theo; Patrick, Sam; Coutant, Antonin; Richartz, Maurício; Tedford, Edmund W.; Weinfurtner, Silke

2017-09-01

When an incident wave scatters off of an obstacle, it is partially reflected and partially transmitted. In theory, if the obstacle is rotating, waves can be amplified in the process, extracting energy from the scatterer. Here we describe in detail the first laboratory detection of this phenomenon, known as superradiance. We observed that waves propagating on the surface of water can be amplified after being scattered by a draining vortex. The maximum amplification measured was 14% +/- 8%, obtained for 3.70 Hz waves, in a 6.25-cm-deep fluid, consistent with the superradiant scattering caused by rapid rotation. We expect our experimental findings to be relevant to black-hole physics, since shallow water waves scattering on a draining fluid constitute an analogue of a black hole, as well as to hydrodynamics, due to the close relation to over-reflection instabilities.

A three dimensional Dirichlet-to-Neumann map for surface waves over topography

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Nachbin, Andre; Andrade, David

2016-11-01

We consider three dimensional surface water waves in the potential theory regime. The bottom topography can have a quite general profile. In the case of linear waves the Dirichlet-to-Neumann operator is formulated in a matrix decomposition form. Computational simulations illustrate the performance of the method. Two dimensional periodic bottom variations are considered in both the Bragg resonance regime as well as the rapidly varying (homogenized) regime. In the three-dimensional case we use the Luneburg lens-shaped submerged mound, which promotes the focusing of the underlying rays. FAPERJ Cientistas do Nosso Estado Grant 102917/2011 and ANP/PRH-32.

Near Field Ocean Surface Waves Acoustic Radiation Observation and Modeling

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ardhuin, F.; Peureux, C.; Royer, J. Y.

2016-12-01

The acoustic noise generation by nonlinearly interacting surface gravity waves has been studied for a long time both theoretically and experimentally [Longuet-Higgins 1951]. The associated far field noise is continuously measured by a vast network of seismometers at the ocean bottom and on the continents. It can especially be used to infer the time variability of short ocean waves statistics [Peureux and Ardhuin 2016]. However, better quantitative estimates of the latter are made difficult due to a poor knowledge of the Earth's crust characteristics, whose coupling with acoustic modes can affect large uncertainties to the frequency response at the bottom of the ocean.The pressure field at depths less than an acoustic wave length to the surface is made of evanescent modes which vanish away from their sources (near field) [Cox and Jacobs 1989]. For this reason, they are less affected by the ocean bottom composition. This near field is recorded and analyzed in the frequency range 0.1 to 0.5 Hz approximately, at two locations : at a shallow site in the North-East Atlantic continental shelf and a deep water site in the Southern Indian ocean, where pressure measurements are performed at the ocean bottom (ca. 100 m) and at 300 m water depth respectively. Evanescent and propagating Rayleigh modes are compared against theoretical predictions. Comparisons against surface waves hindcast based on WAVEWATCH(R) III modeling framework help assessing its performances and can be used to help future model improvements.References Longuet-Higgins, M. S., A Theory of the Origin of Microseisms, Philos. Trans. Royal Soc. A, 1950, 243, 1-3. Peureux, C. and Ardhuin, F., Ocean bottom pressure records from the Cascadia array and short surface gravity waves, J. Geophys. Res. Oceans, 2016, 121, 2862-2873. Cox, C. S. & Jacobs, D. C., Cartesian diver observations of double frequency pressure fluctuations in the upper levels of the ocean, Geophys. Res. Lett., 1989, 16, 807-810.

A deformable surface model for real-time water drop animation.

PubMed

Zhang, Yizhong; Wang, Huamin; Wang, Shuai; Tong, Yiying; Zhou, Kun

2012-08-01

A water drop behaves differently from a large water body because of its strong viscosity and surface tension under the small scale. Surface tension causes the motion of a water drop to be largely determined by its boundary surface. Meanwhile, viscosity makes the interior of a water drop less relevant to its motion, as the smooth velocity field can be well approximated by an interpolation of the velocity on the boundary. Consequently, we propose a fast deformable surface model to realistically animate water drops and their flowing behaviors on solid surfaces. Our system efficiently simulates water drop motions in a Lagrangian fashion, by reducing 3D fluid dynamics over the whole liquid volume to a deformable surface model. In each time step, the model uses an implicit mean curvature flow operator to produce surface tension effects, a contact angle operator to change droplet shapes on solid surfaces, and a set of mesh connectivity updates to handle topological changes and improve mesh quality over time. Our numerical experiments demonstrate a variety of physically plausible water drop phenomena at a real-time rate, including capillary waves when water drops collide, pinch-off of water jets, and droplets flowing over solid materials. The whole system performs orders-of-magnitude faster than existing simulation approaches that generate comparable water drop effects.

Do Heat Waves have an Impact on Terrestrial Water Storage?

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Brena-Naranjo, A.; Teuling, R.; Pedrozo-Acuña, A.

2014-12-01

Recent works have investigated the impact of heat waves on the surface energy and carbon balance. However, less attention has been given to the impacts on terrestrial hydrology. During the summer of 2010, the occurrence of an exceptional heat wave affected severely the Northern Hemisphere. The extension (more than 2 million km2) and severity of this extreme event caused substantial ecosystem damage (more than 1 million ha of forest fires), economic and human losses (~500 billion USD and more than 17 million of indirect deaths, respectively). This work investigates for the first time the impacts of the 2010 summer heat wave on terrestrial water storage. Our study area comprises three different regions where air temperature records were established or almost established during the summer: Western Russia, the Middle East and Eastern Sahel. Anomalies of terrestrial water storage derived from the Gravity Recovery and Climate Experiment (GRACE) were used to infer water storage deficits during the 2003-2013 period. Our analysis shows that Russia experienced the most severe water storage decline, followed by the Middle East, whereas Eastern Sahel was not significantly affected. The impact of the heat wave was spatially uniform in Russia but highly variable in the Middle East, with the Northern part substantially more affected than the Southern region. Lag times between maxima air temperatures and lower water storage deficits for Russia and the Middle East were approximately two and seven months, respectively. The results suggest that the response of terrestrial water storage to heat waves is stronger in energy-limited environments than in water-limited regions. Such differences in the magnitude and timing between meteorological and hydrological extremes can be explained by the propagation time between atmospheric water demand and natural or anthropogenic sources of water storage.

Wave Transformation over a Fringing Coral Reef and the Importance of Low-Frequency Waves and Offshore Water Levels to Runup and Island Overtopping

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Cheriton, O. M.; Storlazzi, C. D.; Rosenberger, K. J.

2016-02-01

Low-lying, reef-fringed islands are susceptible to sea-level rise and often subjected to overwash and flooding during large wave events. To quantify wave dynamics and wave-driven water levels on fringing coral reefs, wave gauges and a current meter were deployed for 5 months across two shore-normal transects on Roi-Namur, an atoll island in the Republic of the Marshall Islands. These observations captured two large wave events that had maximum wave heights greater than 6 m and peak periods of 16 s over the fore reef. The larger event coincided with a peak spring tide, leading to energetic, highly-skewed infragravity (0.04-0.004 Hz) and very low frequency (0.004-0.001 Hz) waves at the shoreline, which reached heights of 1.0 and 0.7 m, respectively. Water surface elevations, combined with wave runup, exceeded 3.7 m at the innermost reef flat adjacent to the toe of the beach, resulting in flooding of inland areas. This overwash occurred during a 3-hr time window that coincided with high tide and maximum low-frequency reef flat wave heights. The relatively low-relief characteristics of this narrow reef flat may further drive shoreline amplification of low-frequency waves due to resonance modes. These results demonstrate how the coupling of high offshore water levels with low-frequency reef flat wave energetics can lead to large impacts along atoll and fringing reef-lined shorelines, such as island overwash. These observations lend support to the hypothesis that predicted higher sea levels will lead to more frequent occurrences of both extreme shoreline runup and island overwash, threatening the sustainability of these islands.

Observations of wave transformation over a fringing coral reef and the importance of low-frequency waves and offshore water levels to runup, overwash, and coastal flooding

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Cheriton, Olivia M.; Storlazzi, Curt D.; Rosenberger, Kurt J.

2016-05-01

Many low-lying tropical islands are susceptible to sea level rise and often subjected to overwash and flooding during large wave events. To quantify wave dynamics and wave-driven water levels on fringing coral reefs, a 5 month deployment of wave gauges and a current meter was conducted across two shore-normal transects on Roi-Namur Island in the Republic of the Marshall Islands. These observations captured two large wave events that had waves with maximum heights greater than 6 m with peak periods of 16 s over the fore reef. The larger event coincided with a peak spring tide, leading to energetic, highly skewed infragravity (0.04-0.004 Hz) and very low frequency (0.004-0.001 Hz) waves at the shoreline, which reached heights of 1.0 and 0.7 m, respectively. Water surface elevations, combined with wave runup, reached 3.7 m above the reef bed at the innermost reef flat adjacent to the toe of the beach, resulting in flooding of inland areas. This overwash occurred during a 3 h time window that coincided with high tide and maximum low-frequency reef flat wave heights. The relatively low-relief characteristics of this narrow reef flat may further drive shoreline amplification of low-frequency waves due to resonance modes. These results (1) demonstrate how the coupling of high offshore water levels with low-frequency reef flat wave energetics can lead to large impacts along fringing reef-lined shorelines, such as island overwash, and (2) lend support to the hypothesis that predicted higher sea levels will lead to more frequent occurrences of these extreme events, negatively impacting coastal resources and infrastructure.

Observations of wave transformation over a fringing coral reef and the importance of low-frequency waves and offshore water levels to runup, overwash, and coastal flooding

USGS Publications Warehouse

Cheriton, Olivia; Storlazzi, Curt; Rosenberger, Kurt

2016-01-01

Many low-lying tropical islands are susceptible to sea level rise and often subjected to overwash and flooding during large wave events. To quantify wave dynamics and wave-driven water levels on fringing coral reefs, a 5 month deployment of wave gauges and a current meter was conducted across two shore-normal transects on Roi-Namur Island in the Republic of the Marshall Islands. These observations captured two large wave events that had waves with maximum heights greater than 6 m with peak periods of 16 s over the fore reef. The larger event coincided with a peak spring tide, leading to energetic, highly skewed infragravity (0.04–0.004 Hz) and very low frequency (0.004–0.001 Hz) waves at the shoreline, which reached heights of 1.0 and 0.7 m, respectively. Water surface elevations, combined with wave runup, reached 3.7 m above the reef bed at the innermost reef flat adjacent to the toe of the beach, resulting in flooding of inland areas. This overwash occurred during a 3 h time window that coincided with high tide and maximum low-frequency reef flat wave heights. The relatively low-relief characteristics of this narrow reef flat may further drive shoreline amplification of low-frequency waves due to resonance modes. These results (1) demonstrate how the coupling of high offshore water levels with low-frequency reef flat wave energetics can lead to large impacts along fringing reef-lined shorelines, such as island overwash, and (2) lend support to the hypothesis that predicted higher sea levels will lead to more frequent occurrences of these extreme events, negatively impacting coastal resources and infrastructure.

Simulation of laser beam reflection at the sea surface

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Schwenger, Frédéric; Repasi, Endre

2011-05-01

A 3D simulation of the reflection of a Gaussian shaped laser beam on the dynamic sea surface is presented. The simulation is suitable for both the calculation of images of SWIR (short wave infrared) imaging sensor and for determination of total detected power of reflected laser light for a bistatic configuration of laser source and receiver at different atmospheric conditions. Our computer simulation comprises the 3D simulation of a maritime scene (open sea/clear sky) and the simulation of laser light reflected at the sea surface. The basic sea surface geometry is modeled by a composition of smooth wind driven gravity waves. The propagation model for water waves is applied for sea surface animation. To predict the view of a camera in the spectral band SWIR the sea surface radiance must be calculated. This is done by considering the emitted sea surface radiance and the reflected sky radiance, calculated by MODTRAN. Additionally, the radiances of laser light specularly reflected at the wind-roughened sea surface are modeled in the SWIR band considering an analytical statistical sea surface BRDF (bidirectional reflectance distribution function). This BRDF model considers the statistical slope statistics of waves and accounts for slope-shadowing of waves that especially occurs at flat incident angles of the laser beam and near horizontal detection angles of reflected irradiance at rough seas. Simulation results are presented showing the variation of the detected laser power dependent on the geometric configuration of laser, sensor and wind characteristics.

A theoretical model of the influence of spray on the exchange of momentum, with storm and hurricane winds

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Troitskaya, Yuliya; Ezhova, Ekaterina; Soustova, Irina

2013-04-01

A stochastic model of the "life cycle" of a droplet, the torn off the crest of a steep surface wave and then falling down to the water is constructed. The model includes the following constituents: i) a model of motion of a heavy particle in the forcing air flow (equation of motion), ii) a model of the wind flow (wind velocity, wave-induced disturbances, turbulent fluctuations), iii) a model of spray injection, iiii) the droplet statistics (size distribution, wind-speed dependence) The interaction of water droplets in the atmospheric boundary layer with turbulent fluctuations is described in terms of the Markovian chain. The mean wind field in the marine atmospheric boundary layer is determined by the momentum exchange associated with the turbulent and wave momentum transfer and by sprays. The wave and turbulent momentum exchange is parameterized by the Charnok expression for the roughness parameter. Wave disturbances induced in the air flow by waves at the surface, were calculated within the model of the marine atmospheric boundary suggested in [1]. The greatest uncertainty in this model is the mechanism of droplets injection. We consider two models for the injection of droplets in the air flow. In the first model the droplets formed by the development of the Kelvin-Helmholtz instability, are entered in the flow with the orbital velocity of the wave (Koga's model [2]), The second mechanism, investigated in many papers, considers droplets from the breakdown of a jet which rises at high speeds from the bottom of the collapsing air bubble cavity [3]. To determine the number of drops injected to the atmospheric boundary layer from the sea surface, the Spray generation function proposed in [4] was in use. Within the model the momentum acquired by every droplet in the interaction with the air flow was calculated. Depending on the particular field of air velocity, wave parameters and the radius of the droplet, it can both get and deliver momentum give impetus to the air flow during the life cycle from taking them off the water to fall into the water. Contribution of droplets to the momentum balance of air flow is determined by the total momentum balance of sea sprays. The calculations in the model showed that the momentum exchange with the spray can lead to either a weak (less than 10%) increase of the aerodynamic surface drag or to a weak reduction (within Koga's model [2]). Recommendations for the experiment on investigation of the "life cycle" of spray in the air flow are suggested. This work was supported by RFBR (project 11-05-12047-ofi-m, 13-05-00865-a, 12-05-33070 mol-a-ved, 12-05-31435 mol-a, 12-05-01064_A). References 1. Troitskaya, Y. I., D. A. Sergeev, A. A. Kandaurov, G. A. Baidakov, M. A. Vdovin, and V. I. Kazakov Laboratory and theoretical modeling of air-sea momentum transfer under severe wind conditions J.Geophys. Res., 117, C00J21, doi:10.1029/2011JC007778. 2. Koga M. Direct production of droplets from breaking wind-waves - its observation by a multi-colored overlapping exposure photographing technique // Tellus. 1981. V.33. Issue 6. P. 552-563. 3. Spiel D.E. On the birth of jet drops from bubbles bursting on water surfaces // J. Geophys. Res. 1995. V.100. P. 4995-5006. 4. Andreas E. L., 1998: A new sea spray generation function for wind speeds up to 32 m s21. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 28, 2175-2184.

High-resolution seismic measurements at loamy dikes for monitoring high-water influences

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Jaksch, Katrin; Giese, Rüdiger

2010-05-01

For the risk management of high-water events it is important to know how secure river dikes are. Even the structures of dikes are often unknown. Methods for the exploration of existing dikes and of their underground, for an evaluation of failure potential and strengthening requirements are needed. In the presented work, the potential of a high-resolution seismics to monitor the moisture penetration of dikes during flood periods was analyzed. To identify the extent of moisture penetration and to determine the structures of a loamy dike body would enable to determine the probability of a dike failure. Dikes made of loam show a different behavior of moisture penetration under high-water influence. The distribution and penetration of water is moderate compared to sandy dikes and resist longer high-water events. The water expands slowly in the dike body in all directions known as fingering. It should be analyzed how the moisture penetration from a dike can be displayed with seismic methods. The aim was to identify on the basis of seismic measurements the areas of moisture penetration within a dike during a flood and out of it to determine the probability of collapse of the dike. For that purpose the structures in the dike body should be determined in reference to the materials and his soil parameters like water content and porosity. A test facility was built for dikes including a regulation for the water level. This allowed the simulation of flood scenarios at dikes. Two dikes with different loam content were built in order to determine the failure mechanism of dikes. With a width of 8 meters at the basis they had nearly the dimension of river dikes. Seismic instrumentation was installed on both dike models. The seismic survey consists of three parallel receiver lines on the dike which recorded seismic signals emitted along the same lines, resulting in a 3D-seismic data set. The receivers were 3-component-geophones fixed in spikes, at the flooded side of the dike were taken water-proof geophones. In order to achieve a high resolution a magnetostricitve actuator was used as seismic source. The actuator generated sweeps within a frequency range from 100 up to 6100 Hz. The measurements show a complex wave field, which is dominated by direct P-waves, surface waves as well as refracted waves at the boundaries of the model. The frequencies of the direct P-waves are up to 3000 Hz at small offsets and beyond it declines to about 700 to 900 Hz. Close to the source the entire sweep energy for all frequencies is transmitted in the dike. Surface waves show frequencies from 300 to 400 Hz. A comparison of seismic data at not flooded conditions and at high flood mark shows clearly that the seismic waves were attenuated due to strong moisture penetration of the dike, surface waves were not observed after flooding the dike. Also, travel times and wave field differ in their characteristics. With increasing moisture content in the dike body the P-wave velocity decreases continuously over 30 percent from 290 m/s at not flooded conditions to 200 m/s at the highest flood. The first breaks at longer distances of the measured data stem from refractions at the dike underground which is made of concrete. Calculated travel time tomography's of different saturation states of the dike show the water content in the dike body on the basis of a correlation with the P-wave velocity. Structural heterogeneities in the dike were also visualized by the travel time tomography's.

Effect of surficial disturbance on exchange between groundwater and surface water in nearshore margins

USGS Publications Warehouse

Rosenberry, Donald O.; Toran, Laura; Nyquist, Jonathan E.

2010-01-01

Low‐permeability sediments situated at or near the sediment‐water interface can influence seepage in nearshore margins, particularly where wave energy or currents are minimal. Seepage meters were used to quantify flow across the sediment‐water interface at two lakes where flow was from surface water to groundwater. Disturbance of the sediment bed substantially increased seepage through the sandy sediments of both lakes. Seepage increased by factors of 2.6 to 7.7 following bed disturbance at seven of eight measurement locations at Mirror Lake, New Hampshire, where the sediment representing the greatest restriction to flow was situated at the sediment‐water interface. Although the veneer of low‐permeability sediment was very thin and easily disturbed, accumulation on the bed surface was aided by a physical setting that minimized wind‐generated waves and current. At Lake Belle Taine, Minnesota, where pre‐disturbance downward seepage was smaller than at Mirror Lake, but hydraulic gradients were very large, disturbance of a 20 to 30 cm thick medium sand layer resulted in increases in seepage of 2 to 3 orders of magnitude. Exceptionally large seepage rates, some exceeding 25,000 cm/d, were recorded following bed disturbance. Since it is common practice to walk on the bed while installing or making seepage measurements, disruption of natural seepage rates may be a common occurrence in nearshore seepage studies. Disturbance of the bed should be avoided or minimized when utilizing seepage meters in shallow, nearshore settings, particularly where waves or currents are infrequent or minimal.

Spectral evolution and extreme value analysis of non-linear numerical simulations of narrow band random surface gravity waves.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Socquet-Juglard, H.; Dysthe, K. B.; Trulsen, K.; Liu, J.; Krogstad, H. E.

2003-04-01

Numerical simulations of a narrow band gaussian spectrum of random surface gravity waves have been carried out in two and three spatial dimensions [7]. Different types of non-linear Schr&{uml;o}dinger equations, [1] and [4], have been used in these simulations. Simulations have now been carried with a JONSWAP spectrum associated with a spreading function of the type cosine-squared [5]. The evolution of the spectrum, skewness, kurtosis, ... will be presented. In addition, some results about stochastic properties of the surface will be shown. Based on the approach found in [2], [3] and [6], the results are presented in terms of deviations from linear Gaussian theory and the standard second order small slope perturbation theory. begin{thebibliography}{9} bibitem{kk96} Trulsen, K. &Dysthe, K. B. (1996). A modified nonlinear Schr&{uml;o}dinger equation for broader bandwidth gravity waves on deep water. Wave Motion, 24, pp. 281-289. bibitem{BK2000} Krogstad, H.E. and S.F. Barstow (2000). A uniform approach to extreme value analysis of ocean waves, Proc. ISOPE'2000, Seattle, USA, 3, pp. 103-108. bibitem{PRK} Prevosto, M., H. E. Krogstad and A. Robin (2000). Probability distributions for maximum wave and crest heights, Coast. Eng., 40, 329-360. bibitem{ketal} Trulsen, K., Kliakhandler, I., Dysthe, K. B. &Velarde, M. G. (2000) On weakly nonlinear modulation of waves on deep water, Phys. Fluids, 12, pp. L25-L28. bibitem{onorato} Onorato, M., Osborne, A.R. and Serio, M. (2002) Extreme wave events in directional, random oceanic sea states, Phys. Fluids, 14, pp. 2432-2437. bibitem{BK2002} Krogstad, H.E. and S.F. Barstow (2002). Analysis and Applications of Second Order Models for the Maximum Crest height, % Proc. 21nd Int. Conf. Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering, Oslo. Paper no. OMAE2002-28479. bibitem{JFMP} Dysthe, K. B., Trulsen, K., Krogstad, H. E. and Socquet-Juglard, H. (2002, in press) Evolution of a narrow band spectrum of random surface gravity waves, J. Fluid Mech.

MODFLOW-Based Coupled Surface Water Routing and Groundwater-Flow Simulation.

PubMed

Hughes, J D; Langevin, C D; White, J T

2015-01-01

In this paper, we present a flexible approach for simulating one- and two-dimensional routing of surface water using a numerical surface water routing (SWR) code implicitly coupled to the groundwater-flow process in MODFLOW. Surface water routing in SWR can be simulated using a diffusive-wave approximation of the Saint-Venant equations and/or a simplified level-pool approach. SWR can account for surface water flow controlled by backwater conditions caused by small water-surface gradients or surface water control structures. A number of typical surface water control structures, such as culverts, weirs, and gates, can be represented, and it is possible to implement operational rules to manage surface water stages and streamflow. The nonlinear system of surface water flow equations formulated in SWR is solved by using Newton methods and direct or iterative solvers. SWR was tested by simulating the (1) Lal axisymmetric overland flow, (2) V-catchment, and (3) modified Pinder-Sauer problems. Simulated results for these problems compare well with other published results and indicate that SWR provides accurate results for surface water-only and coupled surface water/groundwater problems. Results for an application of SWR and MODFLOW to the Snapper Creek area of Miami-Dade County, Florida, USA are also presented and demonstrate the value of coupled surface water and groundwater simulation in managed, low-relief coastal settings. Published 2014. This article is a U.S. Government work and is in the public domain in the USA.

On the interaction between ocean surface waves and seamounts

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Sosa, Jeison; Cavaleri, Luigi; Portilla-Yandún, Jesús

2017-12-01

Of the many topographic features, more specifically seamounts, that are ubiquitous in the ocean floor, we focus our attention on those with relatively shallow summits that can interact with wind-generated surface waves. Among these, especially relatively long waves crossing the oceans (swells) and stormy seas are able to affect the water column up to a considerable depth and therefore interact with these deep-sea features. We quantify this interaction through numerical experiments using a numerical wave model (SWAN), in which a simply shaped seamount is exposed to waves of different length. The results show a strong interaction that leads to significant changes in the wave field, creating wake zones and regions of large wave amplification. This is then exemplified in a practical case where we analyze the interaction of more realistic sea conditions with a very shallow rock in the Yellow Sea. Potentially important for navigation and erosion processes, mutatis mutandis, these results are also indicative of possible interactions with emerged islands and sand banks in shelf seas.

On the stability of lumps and wave collapse in water waves.

PubMed

Akylas, T R; Cho, Yeunwoo

2008-08-13

In the classical water-wave problem, fully localized nonlinear waves of permanent form, commonly referred to as lumps, are possible only if both gravity and surface tension are present. While much attention has been paid to shallow-water lumps, which are generalizations of Korteweg-de Vries solitary waves, the present study is concerned with a distinct class of gravity-capillary lumps recently found on water of finite or infinite depth. In the near linear limit, these lumps resemble locally confined wave packets with envelope and wave crests moving at the same speed, and they can be approximated in terms of a particular steady solution (ground state) of an elliptic equation system of the Benney-Roskes-Davey-Stewartson (BRDS) type, which governs the coupled evolution of the envelope along with the induced mean flow. According to the BRDS equations, however, initial conditions above a certain threshold develop a singularity in finite time, known as wave collapse, due to nonlinear focusing; the ground state, in fact, being exactly at the threshold for collapse suggests that the newly discovered lumps are unstable. In an effort to understand the role of this singularity in the dynamics of lumps, here we consider the fifth-order Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation, a model for weakly nonlinear gravity-capillary waves on water of finite depth when the Bond number is close to one-third, which also admits lumps of the wave packet type. It is found that an exchange of stability occurs at a certain finite wave steepness, lumps being unstable below but stable above this critical value. As a result, a small-amplitude lump, which is linearly unstable and according to the BRDS equations would be prone to wave collapse, depending on the perturbation, either decays into dispersive waves or evolves into an oscillatory state near a finite-amplitude stable lump.

Ocean wave-radar modulation transfer functions from the West Coast experiment

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Wright, J. W.; Plant, W. J.; Keller, W. C.; Jones, W. L.

1980-01-01

Short gravity-capillary waves, the equilibrium, or the steady state excitations of the ocean surface are modulated by longer ocean waves. These short waves are the predominant microwave scatterers on the ocean surface under many viewing conditions so that the modulation is readily measured with CW Doppler radar used as a two-scale wave probe. Modulation transfer functions (the ratio of the cross spectrum of the line-of-sight orbital speed and backscattered microwave power to the autospectrum of the line-of-sight orbital speed) were measured at 9.375 and 1.5 GHz (Bragg wavelengths of 2.3 and 13 cm) for winds up to 10 m/s and ocean wave periods from 2-18 s. The measurements were compared with the relaxation-time model; the principal result is that a source of modulation other than straining by the horizontal component of orbital speed, possibly the wave-induced airflow, is responsible for most of the modulation by waves of typical ocean wave period (10 s). The modulations are large; for unit coherence, spectra of radar images of deep-water waves should be proportional to the quotient of the slope spectra of the ocean waves by the ocean wave frequency.

Climatic data for Mirror Lake, West Thornton, New Hampshire : 1985

USGS Publications Warehouse

Sturrock, Alex M.; Buso, D.C.; Scarborough, J.L.; Winter, T.C.

1988-01-01

Research on the hydrology of Mirror Lake, West Thornton, New Hampshire, includes a study of evaporation. Those climatic data needed for energy-budget and mass-transfer evaporation studies are presented, including: water surface temperature, dry-bulb and wet-bulb air temperatures, vapor pressure at and above the water surface, wind speed, and short- and long-wave radiation. Data are collected at raft and land stations. (USGS)

Numerical Simulations of Upstream Propagating Solitary Waves and Wave Breaking In A Stratified Fjord

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Stastna, M.; Peltier, W. R.

In this talk we will discuss ongoing numerical modeling of the flow of a stratified fluid over large scale topography motivated by observations in Knight Inlet, a fjord in British Columbia, Canada. After briefly surveying the work done on the topic in the past we will discuss our latest set of simulations in which we have observed the gener- ation and breaking of three different types of nonlinear internal waves in the lee of the sill topography. The first type of wave observed is a large lee wave in the weakly strat- ified main portion of the water column, The second is an upward propagating internal wave forced by topography that breaks in the strong, near-surface pycnocline. The third is a train of upstream propagating solitary waves that, in certain circumstances, form as breaking waves consisting of a nearly solitary wave envelope and a highly unsteady core near the surface. Time premitting, we will comment on the implications of these results for our long term goal of quantifying tidally driven mixing in Knight Inlet.

Adapting HYDRUS-1D to Simulate Overland Flow and Reactive Transport During Sheet Flow Deviations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Liang, J.; Bradford, S. A.; Simunek, J.; Hartmann, A.

2017-12-01

The HYDRUS-1D code is a popular numerical model for solving the Richards equation for variably-saturated water flow and solute transport in porous media. This code was adapted to solve rather than the Richards equation for subsurface flow the diffusion wave equation for overland flow at the soil surface. The numerical results obtained by the new model produced an excellent agreement with the analytical solution of the kinematic wave equation. Model tests demonstrated its applicability to simulate the transport and fate of many different solutes, such as non-adsorbing tracers, nutrients, pesticides, and microbes. However, the diffusion wave or kinematic wave equations describe surface runoff as sheet flow with a uniform depth and velocity across the slope. In reality, overland water flow and transport processes are rarely uniform. Local soil topography, vegetation, and spatial soil heterogeneity control directions and magnitudes of water fluxes, and strongly influence runoff characteristics. There is increasing evidence that variations in soil surface characteristics influence the distribution of overland flow and transport of pollutants. These spatially varying surface characteristics are likely to generate non-equilibrium flow and transport processes. HYDRUS-1D includes a hierarchical series of models of increasing complexity to account for both physical equilibrium and non-equilibrium, e.g., dual-porosity and dual-permeability models, up to a dual-permeability model with immobile water. The same conceptualization as used for the subsurface was implemented to simulate non-equilibrium overland flow and transport at the soil surface. The developed model improves our ability to describe non-equilibrium overland flow and transport processes and to improves our understanding of factors that cause this behavior. The HYDRUS-1D overland flow and transport model was additionally also extended to simulate soil erosion. The HYDRUS-1D Soil Erosion Model has been verified by comparing with other soil erosion models. The model performed well when the average soil particle size is relatively large. The performance of the soil erosion model has been further validated by comparing with selected experimental datasets from the literature.

Soliton interactions, Bäcklund transformations, Lax pair for a variable-coefficient generalized dispersive water-wave system

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Liu, Lei; Tian, Bo; Zhen, Hui-Ling; Liu, De-Yin; Xie, Xi-Yang

2018-04-01

Under investigation in this paper is a variable-coefficient generalized dispersive water-wave system, which can simulate the propagation of the long weakly non-linear and weakly dispersive surface waves of variable depth in the shallow water. Under certain variable-coefficient constraints, by virtue of the Bell polynomials, Hirota method and symbolic computation, the bilinear forms, one- and two-soliton solutions are obtained. Bäcklund transformations and new Lax pair are also obtained. Our Lax pair is different from that previously reported. Based on the asymptotic and graphic analysis, with different forms of the variable coefficients, we find that there exist the elastic interactions for u, while either the elastic or inelastic interactions for v, with u and v as the horizontal velocity field and deviation height from the equilibrium position of the water, respectively. When the interactions are inelastic, we see the fission and fusion phenomena.

Rogue waves in a water tank: Experiments and modeling

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lechuga, Antonio

2013-04-01

Recently many rogue waves have been reported as the main cause of ship incidents on the sea. One of the main characteristics of rogue waves is its elusiveness: they present unexpectedly and disappear in the same wave. Some authors (Zakharov and al.2010) are attempting to find the probability of their appearances apart from studyingthe mechanism of the formation. As an effort on this topic we tried the generation of rogue waves in a water wave tank using a symmetric spectrum(Akhmediev et al. 2011) as input on the wave maker. The produced waves were clearly rogue waves with a rate (maximum wave height/ Significant wave height) of 2.33 and a kurtosis of 4.77 (Janssen 2003, Onorato 2006). These results were already presented (Lechuga 2012). Similar waves (in pattern aspect, but without being extreme waves) were described as crossing waves in a water tank(Shemer and Lichter1988). To go on further the next step has been to apply a theoretical model to the envelope of these waves. After some considerations the best model has been an analogue of the Ginzburg-Landau equation. This apparently amazing result is easily explained: We know that the Ginzburg-Landau model is related to some regular structures on the surface of a liquid and also in plasmas, electric and magnetic fields and other media. Another important characteristic of the model is that their solutions are invariants with respectto the translation group. The main aim of this presentation is to extract conclusions of the model and the comparison with the measured waves in the water tank.The nonlinear structure of waves and their regularity make suitable the use of the Ginzburg-Landau model to the envelope of generated waves in the tank,so giving us a powerful tool to cope with the results of our experiment.

Effects of Oscillatory Flow on Fertilization in the Green Sea Urchin Strongylocentrotus droebachiensis

PubMed Central

Kregting, Louise T.; Bass, Anna L.; Guadayol, Òscar; Yund, Philip O.; Thomas, Florence I. M.

2013-01-01

Broadcast spawning invertebrates that live in shallow, high-energy coastal habitats are subjected to oscillatory water motion that creates unsteady flow fields above the surface of animals. The frequency of the oscillatory fluctuations is driven by the wave period, which will influence the stability of local flow structures and may affect fertilization processes. Using an oscillatory water tunnel, we quantified the percentage of eggs fertilized on or near spawning green sea urchins, Strongylocentrotus droebachiensis. Eggs were sampled in the water column, wake eddy, substratum and aboral surface under a range of different periods (T = 4.5 – 12.7 s) and velocities of oscillatory flow. The root-mean-square wave velocity (rms(u w)) was a good predictor of fertilization in oscillatory flow, although the root-mean-square of total velocity (rms(u)), which incorporates all the components of flow (current, wave and turbulence), also provided significant predictions. The percentage of eggs fertilized varied between 50 – 85% at low flows (rms(u w) <0.02 m s−1), depending on the location sampled, but declined to below 10% for most locations at higher rms(u w). The water column was an important location for fertilization with a relative contribution greater than that of the aboral surface, especially at medium and high rms(u w) categories. We conclude that gametes can be successfully fertilized on or near the parent under a range of oscillatory flow conditions. PMID:24098766

Plane hydroelastic beam vibrations due to uniformly moving one axle vehicle

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Fleischer, D.; Park, S.-K.

2004-06-01

The hydroelastic vibrations of a beam with rectangular cross-section is analyzed under the effect of an uniformly moving single axle vehicle using modal analysis and two-dimensional potential flow theory of the fluid neglecting the effect of surface waves aside the beam. For the special case of homogeneous beam resting on the surface of a water filled prismatic basin, the normal modes are determined considering surface waves in beam direction under the condition of compensating the volume of the enclosed fluid. The way to determine the vertical acceleration of the single axle vehicle is shown, which governs the response of the system. As analysis results the course of wheel load, the surface waves along the beam and the flow velocity distribution of the fluid is demonstrated for a continuous floating bridge under the passage of a rolling mass moving with uniform speed.

Hurricane Directional Wave Spectrum Spatial Variation in the Open Ocean

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Wright, C. W.; Walsh, E. J.; Vandemark, D.; Krabill, W. B.; Garcia, A. W.

1999-01-01

The sea surface directional wave spectrum was measured for the first time in all quadrants of a hurricane in open water using the NASA airborne scanning radar altimeter (SRA) carried aboard one of the NOAA WP-3D hurricane hunter aircraft at 1.5 km height. The SRA measures the energetic portion of the directional wave spectrum by generating a topographic map of the sea surface. At 8 Hz, the SRA sweeps a radar beam of 1 deg half-power width (two-way) across the aircraft ground track over a swath equal to 0. 8 of the aircraft height, simultaneously measuring the backscattered power at its 36 GHz (8.3 mm) operating frequency and the range to the sea surface at 64 positions. These slant ranges are multiplied by the cosine of the incidence angles to determine the vertical distances from the aircraft to the sea surface. Subtracting these distances from the aircraft height produces the sea surface elevation map. The sea surface topography is interpolated to a uniform grid, transformed by a two-dimensional FFT, and Doppler corrected. The data presented were acquired on 24 August 1998 when hurricane Bonnie was east of the Bahamas and moving slowly to the north. Wave heights up to 18 m were observed and the spatial variation of the wave field was dramatic. The dominant waves generally propagated at significant angles to the downwind direction and at times there were wave fields traveling at right angles to each other. The NOAA aircraft spent over five hours within 180 km of the hurricane Bonnie eye, and made five eye penetrations. A 2-minute animation of the directional wave spectrum spatial variation over this period will be shown.

A study of electric field components in shallow water and water half-space models in seabed logging

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Rostami, Amir; Soleimani, Hassan; Yahya, Noorhana; Nyamasvisva, Tadiwa Elisha; Rauf, Muhammad

2016-11-01

Seabed logging (SBL) is an electromagnetic (EM) method to detect hydrocarbon (HC) laid beneath the seafloor, which is a development of marine controlled source electromagnetic (CSEM) method. CSEM is a method to show resistivity log of geological layers, transmitting ultra-low frequency EM wave. In SBL a net of receivers, placed on the seafloor, detect reflected and refracted EM wave by layers with different resistivity. Contrast of electrical resistivity of layers impacts on amplitude and phase of the EM wave response. The most indispensable concern in SBL is to detect guided wave via high resistive layer under the seafloor that can be an HC reservoir. Guided wave by HC creates a remarkable difference in received signal when HC reservoir does not exist. While the major contribution of received EM wave in large offset, especially in shallow water environment, is airwave, which is refracted by sea surface due to extremely high resistivity of atmosphere, airwave can affect received guided wave, dramatically. Our objective for this work is to compare HC delineation of tangential and normal components of electric field in shallow water area, using finite element method simulation. Will be reported that, in shallow water environment, minor contribution of air wave in normal component of E field (Ey) versus its major contribution in the tangential component (Ex), causes a considerable contrast on HC delineation of Ey for deeply buried reservoirs (more than 3000 m), while Ex is unable to show different contrasts of received data for with and without HC media at the same condition.

High temperature measurement of water vapor absorption

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Keefer, Dennis; Lewis, J. W. L.; Eskridge, Richard

1985-01-01

An investigation was undertaken to measure the absorption coefficient, at a wavelength of 10.6 microns, for mixtures of water vapor and a diluent gas at high temperature and pressure. The experimental concept was to create the desired conditions of temperature and pressure in a laser absorption wave, similar to that which would be created in a laser propulsion system. A simplified numerical model was developed to predict the characteristics of the absorption wave and to estimate the laser intensity threshold for initiation. A non-intrusive method for temperature measurement utilizing optical laser-beam deflection (OLD) and optical spark breakdown produced by an excimer laser, was thoroughly investigated and found suitable for the non-equilibrium conditions expected in the wave. Experiments were performed to verify the temperature measurement technique, to screen possible materials for surface initiation of the laser absorption wave and to attempt to initiate an absorption wave using the 1.5 kW carbon dioxide laser. The OLD technique was proven for air and for argon, but spark breakdown could not be produced in helium. It was not possible to initiate a laser absorption wave in mixtures of water and helium or water and argon using the 1.5 kW laser, a result which was consistent with the model prediction.

Modeling river discharge and sediment transport in the Wax Lake-Atchafalaya basin with remote sensing parametrization.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Simard, M.; Liu, K.; Denbina, M. W.; Jensen, D.; Rodriguez, E.; Liao, T. H.; Christensen, A.; Jones, C. E.; Twilley, R.; Lamb, M. P.; Thomas, N. A.

2017-12-01

Our goal is to estimate the fluxes of water and sediments throughout the Wax Lake-Atchafalaya basin. This was achieved by parametrization of a set of 1D (HEC-RAS) and 2D (DELFT3D) hydrology models with state of the art remote sensing measurements of water surface elevation, water surface slope and total suspended sediment (TSS) concentrations. The model implementations are spatially explicit, simulating river currents, lateral flows to distributaries and marshes, and spatial variations of sediment concentrations. Three remote sensing instruments were flown simultaneously to collect data over the Wax Lake-Atchafalaya basin, and along with in situ field data. A Riegl Lidar was used to measure water surface elevation and slope, while the UAVSAR L-band radar collected data in repeat-pass interferometric mode to measure water level change within adjacent marshes and islands. These data were collected several times as the tide rose and fell. AVRIS-NG instruments measured water surface reflectance spectra, used to estimate TSS. Bathymetry was obtained from sonar transects and water level changes were recorded by 19 water level pressure transducers. We used several Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) transects to estimate river discharge. The remotely sensed measurements of water surface slope were small ( 1cm/km) and varied slightly along the channel, especially at the confluence with bayous and the intra-coastal waterway. The slope also underwent significant changes during the tidal cycle. Lateral fluxes to island marshes were mainly observed by UAVSAR close to the distributaries. The extensive remote sensing measurements showed significant disparity with the hydrology model outputs. Observed variations in water surface slopes were unmatched by the model and tidal wave propagation was much faster than gauge measurements. The slope variations were compensated for in the models by tuning local lateral fluxes, bathymetry and riverbed friction. Overall, the simpler 1D model could best simulate observed tidal wave propagation and water surface slope. The complexity of the 2D model requires further quantification of parameter sensitivity and improvement of the parametrization routine.

Equatorial Magnetohydrodynamic Shallow Water Waves in the Solar Tachocline

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zaqarashvili, Teimuraz

2018-03-01

The influence of a toroidal magnetic field on the dynamics of shallow water waves in the solar tachocline is studied. A sub-adiabatic temperature gradient in the upper overshoot layer of the tachocline causes significant reduction of surface gravity speed, which leads to trapping of the waves near the equator and to an increase of the Rossby wave period up to the timescale of solar cycles. Dispersion relations of all equatorial magnetohydrodynamic (MHD) shallow water waves are obtained in the upper tachocline conditions and solved analytically and numerically. It is found that the toroidal magnetic field splits equatorial Rossby and Rossby-gravity waves into fast and slow modes. For a reasonable value of reduced gravity, global equatorial fast magneto-Rossby waves (with the spatial scale of equatorial extent) have a periodicity of 11 years, matching the timescale of activity cycles. The solutions are confined around the equator between latitudes ±20°–40°, coinciding with sunspot activity belts. Equatorial slow magneto-Rossby waves have a periodicity of 90–100 yr, resembling the observed long-term modulation of cycle strength, i.e., the Gleissberg cycle. Equatorial magneto-Kelvin and slow magneto-Rossby-gravity waves have the periodicity of 1–2 years and may correspond to observed annual and quasi-biennial oscillations. Equatorial fast magneto-Rossby-gravity and magneto-inertia-gravity waves have periods of hundreds of days and might be responsible for observed Rieger-type periodicity. Consequently, the equatorial MHD shallow water waves in the upper overshoot tachocline may capture all timescales of observed variations in solar activity, but detailed analytical and numerical studies are necessary to make a firm conclusion toward the connection of the waves to the solar dynamo.

Comparison of the magnitude and phase of the reflection coefficient from a smooth water/sand interface with elastic and poroelastic models

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Isakson, Marcia; Camin, H. John; Canepa, Gaetano

2005-04-01

The reflection coefficient from a sand/water interface is an important parameter in modeling the acoustics of littoral environments. Many models have been advanced to describe the influence of the sediment parameters and interface roughness parameters on the reflection coefficient. In this study, the magnitude and phase of the reflection coefficient from 30 to 160 kHz is measured in a bistatic experiment on a smoothed water/sand interface at grazing angles from 5 to 75 degrees. The measured complex reflection coefficient is compared with the fluid model, the elastic model and poro-elastic models. Effects of rough surface scattering are investigated using the Bottom Response from Inhomogeneities and Surface using Small Slope Approximation (BoRIS-SSA). Spherical wave effects are modeled using plane wave decomposition. Models are considered for their ability to predict the measured results using realistic parameters. [Work supported by ONR, Ocean Acoustics.

Integrated surface/subsurface permafrost thermal hydrology: Model formulation and proof-of-concept simulations

DOE PAGES

Painter, Scott L.; Coon, Ethan T.; Atchley, Adam L.; ...

2016-08-11

The need to understand potential climate impacts and feedbacks in Arctic regions has prompted recent interest in modeling of permafrost dynamics in a warming climate. A new fine-scale integrated surface/subsurface thermal hydrology modeling capability is described and demonstrated in proof-of-concept simulations. The new modeling capability combines a surface energy balance model with recently developed three-dimensional subsurface thermal hydrology models and new models for nonisothermal surface water flows and snow distribution in the microtopography. Surface water flows are modeled using the diffusion wave equation extended to include energy transport and phase change of ponded water. Variation of snow depth in themore » microtopography, physically the result of wind scour, is also modeled heuristically with a diffusion wave equation. The multiple surface and subsurface processes are implemented by leveraging highly parallel community software. Fully integrated thermal hydrology simulations on the tilted open book catchment, an important test case for integrated surface/subsurface flow modeling, are presented. Fine-scale 100-year projections of the integrated permafrost thermal hydrological system on an ice wedge polygon at Barrow Alaska in a warming climate are also presented. Finally, these simulations demonstrate the feasibility of microtopography-resolving, process-rich simulations as a tool to help understand possible future evolution of the carbon-rich Arctic tundra in a warming climate.« less

Non-local features of a hydrodynamic pilot-wave system

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Nachbin, Andre; Couchman, Miles; Bush, John

2016-11-01

A droplet walking on the surface of a vibrating fluid bath constitutes a pilot-wave system of the form envisaged for quantum dynamics by Louis de Broglie: a particle moves in resonance with its guiding wave field. We here present an examination of pilot-wave hydrodynamics in a confined domain. Specifically, we present a one-dimensional water wave model that describes droplets walking in single and multiple cavities. The cavities are separated by a submerged barrier, and so allow for the study of tunneling. They also highlight the non-local dynamical features arising due to the spatially-extended wave field. Results from computational simulations are complemented by laboratory experiments.

Erosion as a possible mechanism for the decrease of size of plastic pieces floating in oceans.

PubMed

Resmeriță, Ana-Maria; Coroaba, Adina; Darie, Raluca; Doroftei, Florica; Spiridon, Iuliana; Simionescu, Bogdan C; Navard, Patrick

2018-02-01

A sea water wave tank fitted in an artificial UV light weathering chamber was built to study the behaviour of polypropylene (PP) injected pieces in close ocean-like conditions. In air, the same pieces sees a degradation in the bulk with a decrease of mechanical properties, a little change of crystal properties and nearly no change of surface chemistry. Weathering in the sea water wave tank shows only a surface changes, with no effect on crystals or mechanical properties with loss of small pieces of matter in the sub-micron range and a change of surface chemistry. This suggests an erosion dispersion mechanism. Such mechanism could explain why no particle smaller than about one millimeter is found when collecting plastic debris at sea: there are much smaller, eroded from plastic surfaces by a mechano-chemical process similar to the erosion mechanism found in the dispersion of agglomerate under flow. Copyright © 2017 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

An Asymptotic and Stochastic Theory for the Effects of Surface Gravity Waves on Currents and Infragravity Waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

McWilliams, J. C.; Lane, E.; Melville, K.; Restrepo, J.; Sullivan, P.

2004-12-01

Oceanic surface gravity waves are approximately irrotational, weakly nonlinear, and conservative, and they have a much shorter time scale than oceanic currents and longer waves (e.g., infragravity waves) --- except where the primary surface waves break. This provides a framework for an asymptotic theory, based on separation of time (and space) scales, of wave-averaged effects associated with the conservative primary wave dynamics combined with a stochastic representation of the momentum transfer and induced mixing associated with non-conservative wave breaking. Such a theory requires only modest information about the primary wave field from measurements or operational model forecasts and thus avoids the enormous burden of calculating the waves on their intrinsically small space and time scales. For the conservative effects, the result is a vortex force associated with the primary wave's Stokes drift; a wave-averaged Bernoulli head and sea-level set-up; and an incremental material advection by the Stokes drift. This can be compared to the "radiation stress" formalism of Longuet-Higgins, Stewart, and Hasselmann; it is shown to be a preferable representation since the radiation stress is trivial at its apparent leading order. For the non-conservative breaking effects, a population of stochastic impulses is added to the current and infragravity momentum equations with distribution functions taken from measurements. In offshore wind-wave equilibria, these impulses replace the conventional surface wind stress and cause significant differences in the surface boundary layer currents and entrainment rate, particularly when acting in combination with the conservative vortex force. In the surf zone, where breaking associated with shoaling removes nearly all of the primary wave momentum and energy, the stochastic forcing plays an analogous role as the widely used nearshore radiation stress parameterizations. This talk describes the theoretical framework and presents some preliminary solutions using it. McWilliams, J.C., J.M. Restrepo, & E.M. Lane, 2004: An asymptotic theory for the interaction of waves and currents in coastal waters. J. Fluid Mech. 511, 135-178. Sullivan, P.P., J.C. McWilliams, & W.K. Melville, 2004: The oceanic boundary layer driven by wave breaking with stochastic variability. J. Fluid Mech. 507, 143-174.

Earth Observation

NASA Image and Video Library

2013-06-23

ISS036-E-010628 (24 June 2013) --- Strait of Tiran, Red Sea and Gulf of Aqaba are featured in this image photographed by an Expedition 36 crew member on the International Space Station. The approximately six-kilometer wide Strait of Tiran (also known as the Straits of Tiran) between the Egyptian mainland and Tiran Island separates the Gulf of Aqaba from the Red Sea, and provides two channels (290 meters and 73 meters deep, respectively) navigable by large ships bound for ports in Jordan and Israel. A smaller passage also exists between the east side of Tiran Island and Saudi Arabia, but this a single channel that is 16 meters deep. Due to its strategic position, control of the Strait has been an important factor in historical conflicts of the region, such as the Suez Crisis in 1956 and the Six-Day War in 1967. This photograph illustrates the morphology of the Strait. The relatively clear, deep-water passages of the western Strait of Tiran are visible at right, while the more sinuous shallow-water passage on the Saudi Arabia side can be seen at bottom center. Light blue to turquoise areas around Tiran Island indicate shallow water, while the island itself is arid and largely free of vegetation. Coral reefs are also found in the Straits of Tiran and are a popular diving destination. The silvery sheen on the water surface within the Strait and the south of Tiran Island is sunglint – light reflecting off the water surface back towards the observer on the space station. Disturbance to the water surface, as well as presence of substances such as oils and surfactants, can change the reflective properties of the water surface and highlight both surface waves and subsurface currents. For example, a large wave set is highlighted by sunglint at upper left.

Validation of the Fully-Coupled Air-Sea-Wave COAMPS System

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Smith, T.; Campbell, T. J.; Chen, S.; Gabersek, S.; Tsu, J.; Allard, R. A.

2017-12-01

A fully-coupled, air-sea-wave numerical model, COAMPS®, has been developed by the Naval Research Laboratory to further enhance understanding of oceanic, atmospheric, and wave interactions. The fully-coupled air-sea-wave system consists of an atmospheric component with full physics parameterizations, an ocean model, NCOM (Navy Coastal Ocean Model), and two wave components, SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) and WaveWatch III. Air-sea interactions between the atmosphere and ocean components are accomplished through bulk flux formulations of wind stress and sensible and latent heat fluxes. Wave interactions with the ocean include the Stokes' drift, surface radiation stresses, and enhancement of the bottom drag coefficient in shallow water due to the wave orbital velocities at the bottom. In addition, NCOM surface currents are provided to SWAN and WaveWatch III to simulate wave-current interaction. The fully-coupled COAMPS system was executed for several regions at both regional and coastal scales for the entire year of 2015, including the U.S. East Coast, Western Pacific, and Hawaii. Validation of COAMPS® includes observational data comparisons and evaluating operational performance on the High Performance Computing (HPC) system for each of these regions.

Advanced computational simulations of water waves interacting with wave energy converters

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Pathak, Ashish; Freniere, Cole; Raessi, Mehdi

2017-03-01

Wave energy converter (WEC) devices harness the renewable ocean wave energy and convert it into useful forms of energy, e.g. mechanical or electrical. This paper presents an advanced 3D computational framework to study the interaction between water waves and WEC devices. The computational tool solves the full Navier-Stokes equations and considers all important effects impacting the device performance. To enable large-scale simulations in fast turnaround times, the computational solver was developed in an MPI parallel framework. A fast multigrid preconditioned solver is introduced to solve the computationally expensive pressure Poisson equation. The computational solver was applied to two surface-piercing WEC geometries: bottom-hinged cylinder and flap. Their numerically simulated response was validated against experimental data. Additional simulations were conducted to investigate the applicability of Froude scaling in predicting full-scale WEC response from the model experiments.

Eulerian-Lagrangian analysis for particle velocities and trajectories in a pure wave motion using particle image velocimetry.

PubMed

Umeyama, Motohiko

2012-04-13

This paper investigates the velocity and the trajectory of water particles under surface waves, which propagate at a constant water depth, using particle image velocimetry (PIV). The vector fields and vertical distributions of velocities are presented at several phases in one wave cycle. The third-order Stokes wave theory was employed to express the physical quantities. The PIV technique's ability to measure both temporal and spatial variations of the velocity was proved after a series of attempts. This technique was applied to the prediction of particle trajectory in an Eulerian scheme. Furthermore, the measured particle path was compared with the positions found theoretically by integrating the Eulerian velocity to the higher order of a Taylor series expansion. The profile of average travelling distance is also presented with a solution of zero net mass flux in a closed wave flume.

Sele coastal plain flood risk due to wave storm and river flow interaction

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Benassai, Guido; Aucelli, Pietro; Di Paola, Gianluigi; Della Morte, Renata; Cozzolino, Luca; Rizzo, Angela

2016-04-01

Wind waves, elevated water levels and river discharge can cause flooding in low-lying coastal areas, where the water level is the interaction between wave storm elevated water levels and river flow interaction. The factors driving the potential flood risk include weather conditions, river water stage and storm surge. These data are required to obtain inputs to run the hydrological model used to evaluate the water surface level during ordinary and extreme events regarding both the fluvial overflow and storm surge at the river mouth. In this paper we studied the interaction between the sea level variation and the river hydraulics in order to assess the location of the river floods in the Sele coastal plain. The wave data were acquired from the wave buoy of Ponza, while the water level data needed to assess the sea level variation were recorded by the tide gauge of Salerno. The water stages, river discharges and rating curves for Sele river were provided by Italian Hydrographic Service (Servizio Idrografico e Mareografico Nazionale, SIMN).We used the dataset of Albanella station (40°29'34.30"N, 15°00'44.30"E), located around 7 km from the river mouth. The extreme river discharges were evaluated through the Weibull equation, which were associated with their return period (TR). The steady state river water levels were evaluated through HEC-RAS 4.0 model, developed by Hydrologic Engineering Center (HEC) of the United States Army Corps of Engineers Hydrologic Engineering Center (USACE,2006). It is a well-known 1D model that computes water surface elevation (WSE) and velocity at discrete cross-sections by solving continuity, energy and flow resistance (e.g., Manning) equation. Data requirements for HEC-RAS include topographic information in the form of a series of cross-sections, friction parameter in the form of Manning's n values across each cross-section, and flow data including flow rates, flow change locations, and boundary conditions. For a steady state sub-critical simulation, the boundary condition is a known downstream WSE, in this case the elevated water level due to wave setup, wind setup and inverted barometer, while the upstream boundary condition consisted in WSE corresponding to river discharges associated to different return periods. The results of the simulations evidence, for the last 10 kilometers of the river, the burst of critical inundation scenarios even with moderate flow discharge, if associated with concurrent storm surge which increase the water level at the river mouth, obstructing normal flow discharge.

The influence of surface waves on tidal turbine performance characteristics

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Van Benthem, M.; Luznik, L.; Flack, K.; Lust, E.

2012-12-01

Performance characteristics are presented for a 1/25th scale horizontal axis marine current turbine operating in calm conditions and in the presence of intermediate and deep water waves. The two-bladed turbine has radius of 0.4 m and a maximum blade pitch of 17°. The hydrofoil is a NACA63-618 which was selected to be Reynolds number independent in the operational range (ReC = 2 - 4 x 105). The experiments were performed in the 116 m towing tank at the United States Naval Academy at two depths 0.8D and 1.6D measured from the blade tip to the mean free surface. The performance characteristics without waves match expected results from blade-element-momentum theory. Results show that the average power coefficient is unaffected by the presence of waves, however, the phase averaged results indicate significant variation with wave phase.

The Influence of surface waves on marine current turbine performance

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lust, Ethan; Flack, Karen; Luznik, Luksa

2012-11-01

Performance characteristics are presented for a 1/25th scale marine current turbine operating in calm conditions and in the presence of intermediate and deep water waves. The two-bladed turbine has radius of 0.4 m and a maximum blade pitch of 17. The hydrofoil is a NACA63-618 which was selected to be Reynolds number independent in the operational range (ReC = 2 - 4 × 105) . The experiments were performed in the 116 m tow-tank at the United States Naval Academy at a depth of 0.8D measured from the blade tip to the mean free surface. The performance characteristics without waves match expected results from blade-element-momentum theory. Results show that the average power coefficient is unaffected by the presence of waves, however, the phase averaged results indicate significant variation with wave phase. Work supported by ONR.

Secondary Flows and Sediment Transport due to Wave - Current Interaction

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ismail, Nabil; Wiegel, Robert

2015-04-01

Objectives: The main purpose of this study is to determine the modifications of coastal processes driven by wave-current interaction and thus to confirm hydrodynamic mechanisms associated with the interaction at river mouths and tidal inlets where anthropogenic impacts were introduced. Further, the aim of the work has been to characterize the effect of the relative strength of momentum action of waves to the opposing current on the nearshore circulation where river flow was previously effective to entrain sediments along the shoreline. Such analytical information are useful to provide guidelines for sustainable design of coastal defense structures. Methodology and Analysis: Use is made of an earlier study reported by the authors (1983) on the interaction of horizontal momentum jets and opposing shallow water waves at shorelines, and of an unpublished laboratory study (1980). The turbulent horizontal discharge was shore-normal, directed offshore, and the incident wave direction was shore-normal, travelling toward shore. Flow visualization at the smooth bottom and the water surface, velocity and water surface elevation measurements were made. Results were obtained for wave , current modifications as well as the flow pattern in the jet and the induced circulation on both sides of the jet, for a range of wave and jet characteristics. The experimental data, obtained from measurement in the 3-D laboratory basin, showed several distinct flow pattern regimes on the bottom and the water surface. The observed flow circulation regimes were found to depend on the ratio of the wave momentum action on the jet to the jet initial momentum. Based on the time and length scales of wave and current parameters and using the time average of the depth integrated conservation equations, it is found that the relative strength of the wave action on the jet could be represented by a dimensionless expression; Rsm ( ) 12ρSa20g-L0h-Cg- 2 Rsm ≈ (C0 - U) /ρ0U w (1) In the above dimensionless expression, ρs is the seawater mass density, ρ is the river current mass density, a0 is the deep water wave amplitude, g is the acceleration of gravity, Cg is the wave group velocity, L is the deep water wave length, h is the average water depth near the river mouth, C0 is the deep water wave phase velocity, U is the average jet exit velocity and w is the river or the tidal inlet effective width. The values of the above number were found to be in the range between 1.0 and 6.0-8.0 for the examined laboratory and field case studies for non-buoyant jets. Upper bound corresponds to cases of higher wave activity on the coast while the lower bound corresponds to cases of tidal currents with minimum wave activity, Coastal Processes Modifications due to River and Ebb Current Interaction with Opposing Waves: Confirmation of the obtained theoretical expression was obtained by comparison against field data for shoreline variability at river mouths and the formation of accretion shoals and erosion spots at tidal inlets and ocean outfalls in the USA and the Nile delta coastline. The predicted extent of the coast reshaping process, due to shoreline erosion and subsequent accretion, due to the absence of the river Nile current after 1965, east of the Rosetta headland, was determined. The obtained shoreline erosion spatial extent using the above correlation showed that the long term length of coastline recession would be in the neighborhood of 16-20 km east of Rosetta headland (1990-2014). Such results were further confirmed by the recent satellite data (Ghoneim, et al, 2015). The results of the present work were well compared to the data on Fort Pierce Inlet, Florida, where severe erosion is known to exist on both sides of the inlet (Joshi, 1983). The current results are qualitatively in parallel to that obtained recently by the numerical model Delft3D coupled with the wave model SWAN ( Nardin, et al, 2013) on wave- current interaction at river mouths and the formation of mouth bars. Further analyses were also conducted to test the validity of the derived expression to the cases of wave interaction with buoyant currents in shallow waters. The buoyant jets represent the thermal discharges from power plants on coastlines of Diablo Canyon cove in CA at the Pacific Ocean (Ismail, et al,1988) and at the northern coast of Egypt at Al-Arish. The comparison showed higher values range of Rsm for the cases of buoyant jets. References: Ghoneim, E., Mashaly , J., Gamble, D., Halls, J., and AbuBakr, M. (2015). "Nile Delta Exhibited a Spatial Reversal in the Rates of Shoreline Retreat on the Rosetta Promontory; comparing pre- and post-beach protection", Geomorphology, 228,1-14. Ismail, N. (2007). "Reynolds Stresses and Velocity Distributions in a Wave-Current Coexisting Environment', Discussion, J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering,10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2007)133:2(168),168-170. Ismail, N.M., Wiegel, R.L., Ryan, P.J., and Tu, S. W. (1988). "Mixing of Thermal Discharges in Coastal Waters" , 21 st International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Malaga, Spain, 2521-2535. Ismail, N. (1984). "Wave-Current Models for Design of Marine Structures" , Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, Vol. 110, No. 4, 432-447. Ismail, N.M. and Wiegel, R.L. (1983). "Opposing Waves Effect on Momentum Jets Spreading Rate", J. Waterways, Port, Coastal and Ocean Division, Proc., ASCE, vol. 109, No.4, 465-483. Joshi, P. and Taylor, R. (1983). 'Circulation Induced by Tidal Jets.' J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 109(4), 445-464. Nardin, W., Mariotti, G., Edmonds, D., Guercio, R., and Fagherazzi, S. (2013). "Growth of River Mouth Bars in Sheltered Bays in the Presence of Frontal Waves." Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface,10, 872-886.

Wind wave analysis in depth limited water using OCEANLYZ, A MATLAB toolbox

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Karimpour, Arash; Chen, Qin

2017-09-01

There are a number of well established methods in the literature describing how to assess and analyze measured wind wave data. However, obtaining reliable results from these methods requires adequate knowledge on their behavior, strengths and weaknesses. A proper implementation of these methods requires a series of procedures including a pretreatment of the raw measurements, and adjustment and refinement of the processed data to provide quality assurance of the outcomes, otherwise it can lead to untrustworthy results. This paper discusses potential issues in these procedures, explains what parameters are influential for the outcomes and suggests practical solutions to avoid and minimize the errors in the wave results. The procedure of converting the water pressure data into the water surface elevation data, treating the high frequency data with a low signal-to-noise ratio, partitioning swell energy from wind sea, and estimating the peak wave frequency from the weighted integral of the wave power spectrum are described. Conversion and recovery of the data acquired by a pressure transducer, particularly in depth-limited water like estuaries and lakes, are explained in detail. To provide researchers with tools for a reliable estimation of wind wave parameters, the Ocean Wave Analyzing toolbox, OCEANLYZ, is introduced. The toolbox contains a number of MATLAB functions for estimation of the wave properties in time and frequency domains. The toolbox has been developed and examined during a number of the field study projects in Louisiana's estuaries.

Three-Dimensional Acoustic Propagation Through Shallow Water Internal, Surface Gravity and Bottom Sediment Waves

DTIC Science & Technology

2011-09-01

energy never ends. I am also very pleased to have Dr. William M. Carey, Dr. Henrik Schmidt, Dr. Glen G. Gawarkiewicz and Dr. Pierre Lermusiaux on my...Internal Waves for Multi- Megameter Acoustic Propagation in the Ocean, J. Acoust. Soc. Amer., Vol. 100, P. 3607-3620, 1996. [6] J.R. Apel , M. Badiey

Wave Tank Studies of Strong Modulation of Wind Ripples Due To Long Waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ermakov, S.; Sergievskaya, I.; Shchegolkov, Yu.

Modulation of wind capillary-gravity ripples due to long waves has been studied in wave tank experiment at low wind speeds using Ka-band radar. The experiments were carried out both for clean water and the water surface covered with surfactant films. It is obtained that the modulation of radar signals is quite strong and can increase with surfactant concentration and fetch. It is shown that the hydrodynamic Modulation Transfer Function (MTF) calculated for free wind ripples and taking into account the kinematic (straining) effect, variations of the wind stress and variations of surfactant concentration strongly underestimates experimental MTF-values. The effect of strong modulation is assumed to be connected with nonlinear harmonics of longer dm-cm- scale waves - bound waves ("parasitic ripples"). The intensity of bound waves depends strongly on the amplitude of decimetre-scale waves, therefore even weak modulation of the dm-scale waves due to long waves results to strong ("cascade") modulation of bound waves. Modulation of the system of "free/bound waves" is estimated using results of wave tank studies of bound waves generation and is shown to be in quali- tative agreement with experiment. This work was supported by MOD, UK via DERA Winfrith (Project ISTC 1774P) and by RFBR (Project 02-05-65102).

Internal Wave Generation by Convection

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lecoanet, Daniel Michael

In nature, it is not unusual to find stably stratified fluid adjacent to convectively unstable fluid. This can occur in the Earth's atmosphere, where the troposphere is convective and the stratosphere is stably stratified; in lakes, where surface solar heating can drive convection above stably stratified fresh water; in the oceans, where geothermal heating can drive convection near the ocean floor, but the water above is stably stratified due to salinity gradients; possible in the Earth's liquid core, where gradients in thermal conductivity and composition diffusivities maybe lead to different layers of stable or unstable liquid metal; and, in stars, as most stars contain at least one convective and at least one radiative (stably stratified) zone. Internal waves propagate in stably stratified fluids. The characterization of the internal waves generated by convection is an open problem in geophysical and astrophysical fluid dynamics. Internal waves can play a dynamically important role via nonlocal transport. Momentum transport by convectively excited internal waves is thought to generate the quasi-biennial oscillation of zonal wind in the equatorial stratosphere, an important physical phenomenon used to calibrate global climate models. Angular momentum transport by convectively excited internal waves may play a crucial role in setting the initial rotation rates of neutron stars. In the last year of life of a massive star, convectively excited internal waves may transport even energy to the surface layers to unbind them, launching a wind. In each of these cases, internal waves are able to transport some quantity--momentum, angular momentum, energy--across large, stable buoyancy gradients. Thus, internal waves represent an important, if unusual, transport mechanism. This thesis advances our understanding of internal wave generation by convection. Chapter 2 provides an underlying theoretical framework to study this problem. It describes a detailed calculation of the internal gravity wave spectrum, using the Lighthill theory of wave excitation by turbulence. We use a Green's function approach, in which we convolve a convective source term with the Green's function of different internal gravity waves. The remainder of the thesis is a circuitous attempt to verify these analytical predictions. I test the predictions of Chapter 2 via numerical simulation. The first step is to identify a code suitable for this study. I helped develop the Dedalus code framework to study internal wave generation by convection. Dedalus can solve many different partial differential equations using the pseudo-spectral numerical method. In Chapter 3, I demonstrate Dedalus' ability to solve different equations used to model convection in astrophysics. I consider both the propagation and damping of internal waves, and the properties of low Rayleigh number convective steady states, in six different equation sets used in the astrophysics literature. This shows that Dedalus can be used to solve the equations of interest. Next, in Chapter 4, I verify the high accuracy of Dedalus by comparing it to the popular astrophysics code Athena in a standard Kelvin-Helmholtz instability test problem. Dedalus performs admirably in comparison to Athena, and provides a high standard for other codes solving the fully compressible Navier-Stokes equations. Chapter 5 demonstrates that Dedalus can simulate convective adjacent to a stably stratified region, by studying convective mixing near carbon flames. The convective overshoot and mixing is well-resolved, and is able to generate internal waves. Confident in Dedalus' ability to study the problem at hand, Chapter 6 describes simulations inspired by water experiments of internal wave generation by convection. The experiments exploit water's unusual property that its density maximum is at 4°C, rather than at 0°C. We use a similar equation of state in Dedalus, and study internal gravity waves generation by convection in a water-like fluid. We test two models of wave generation: bulk excitation (equivalent to the Lighthill theory described in Chapter 2), and surface excitation. We find the bulk excitation model accurately reproduces the waves generated in the simulations, validating the calculations of Chapter 2.

Numerical study of breakwater failure due to tsunami-like undular bore impacts: The case of the port of Soma.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Martin-Medina, Manuel; Morichon, Denis; Abadie, Stephane; Le Roy, Sylvestre; Lemoine, Anne

2017-04-01

The Tohoku tsunami, that impacted the Japanese coast in 2011, caused great damages on many offshore vertical breakwaters ranging from the erosion of the rubble mound to the partial displacement or total collapse of caissons. The breakwater failure mechanisms were function of the tsunami wave types that vary along the Japanese coast according to the bathymetry features. The Iwate coast, characterized by deep water depths and steep slopes, was mainly impacted by tsunami overflow leading in particular to the failure of the world's deepest breakwater of Kamaishi. In the shallow waters of the Sendai bay, observations showed that breakwaters protecting harbor entrances were impacted by short waves train resembling to undular bore. This work aims to investigate this latter type of tsunami wave impacts that are less reported in the literature. We chose to focus on the highly damaged offshore breakwater of Soma, located in the south part of the Sendai bay. The hydrodynamics conditions during the tsunami impact are investigated using the VARANS Thetis code (Desombre et al., 2012), which allows to simulate both the free surface flow and the flow inside the rubble mound simulated by a porous medium. The model is forced at the offshore boundaries by the Funwave Boussinesq code that describes the transformation of the tsunami waves from the source to the generation of undular bores in shallow waters. The study includes the computation of forces acting on the caissons. We discuss the relevance of describing the hydrodynamics at the short wave scale to assess breakwater stability in the course of tsunami-like undular bore impact. References Desombre, J., Morichon, D., & Mory, M. (2012). SIMULTANEOUS SURFACE AND SUBSURFACE AIR AND WATER FLOWS MODELLING IN THE SWASH ZONE. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(33), 56.

Impact of wave mixing on the sea ice cover

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Rynders, Stefanie; Aksenov, Yevgeny; Madec, Gurvan; Nurser, George; Feltham, Daniel

2017-04-01

As information on surface waves in ice-covered regions becomes available in ice-ocean models, there is an opportunity to model wave-related processes more accurate. Breaking waves cause mixing of the upper water column and present mixing schemes in ocean models take this into account through surface roughness. A commonly used approach is to calculate surface roughness from significant wave height, parameterised from wind speed. We present results from simulations using modelled significant wave height instead, which accounts for the presence of sea ice and the effect of swell. The simulations use the NEMO ocean model coupled to the CICE sea ice model, with wave information from the ECWAM model of the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF). The new waves-in-ice module allows waves to propagate in sea ice and attenuates waves according to multiple scattering and non-elastic losses. It is found that in the simulations with wave mixing the mixed layer depth (MLD) under ice cover is reduced, since the parameterisation from wind speed overestimates wave height in the ice-covered regions. The MLD change, in turn, affects sea ice concentration and ice thickness. In the Arctic, reduced MLD in winter translates into increased ice thicknesses overall, with higher increases in the Western Arctic and decreases along the Siberian coast. In summer, shallowing of the mixed layer results in more heat accumulating in the surface ocean, increasing ice melting. In the Southern Ocean the meridional gradient in ice thickness and concentration is increased. We argue that coupling waves with sea ice - ocean models can reduce negative biases in sea ice cover, affecting the distribution of nutrients and, thus, biological productivity and ecosystems. This coupling will become more important in the future, when wave heights in a large part of the Arctic are expected to increase due to sea ice retreat and a larger wave fetch. Therefore, wave mixing constitutes a possible positive feedback mechanism.

The particle valve: On-demand particle trapping, filtering, and release from a microfabricated polydimethylsiloxane membrane using surface acoustic waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Collins, David J.; Alan, Tuncay; Neild, Adrian

2014-07-01

We introduce a surface acoustic wave (SAW) based method for acoustically controlled concentration, capture, release, and sorting of particles in a microfluidic system. This method is power efficient by the nature of its design: the vertical direction of a traveling acoustic wave, in which the majority of the energy at the SAW-water interface is directed, is used to concentrate particles behind a microfabricated polydimethylsiloxane membrane extending partially into a channel. Sorting is also demonstrated with this concentration shown to be size-dependent. Low-power, miniature SAW devices, using methods such as the one demonstrated here, are well placed for future integration into point-of-care diagnostic systems.

Ginzburg-Landau equation as a heuristic model for generating rogue waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lechuga, Antonio

2016-04-01

Envelope equations have many applications in the study of physical systems. Particularly interesting is the case 0f surface water waves. In steady conditions, laboratory experiments are carried out for multiple purposes either for researches or for practical problems. In both cases envelope equations are useful for understanding qualitative and quantitative results. The Ginzburg-Landau equation provides an excellent model for systems of that kind with remarkable patterns. Taking into account the above paragraph the main aim of our work is to generate waves in a water tank with almost a symmetric spectrum according to Akhmediev (2011) and thus, to produce a succession of rogue waves. The envelope of these waves gives us some patterns whose model is a type of Ginzburg-Landau equation, Danilov et al (1988). From a heuristic point of view the link between the experiment and the model is achieved. Further, the next step consists of changing generating parameters on the water tank and also the coefficients of the Ginzburg-Landau equation, Lechuga (2013) in order to reach a sufficient good approach.

Contribution of non-resonant wave-wave interactions in the dynamics of long-crested sea wave fields

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Benoit, Michel

2017-04-01

Gravity waves fields at the surface of the oceans evolve under the combined effects of several physical mechanisms, of which nonlinear wave-wave interactions play a dominant role. These interactions transfer energy between components within the energy spectrum and allow in particular to explain the shape of the distribution of wave energy according to the frequencies and directions of propagation. In the oceanic domain (deep water conditions), dominant interactions are third-order resonant interactions, between quadruplets (or quartets) of wave components, and the evolution of the wave spectrum is governed by a kinetic equation, established by Hasselmann (1962) and Zakharov (1968). The kinetic equation has a number of interesting properties, including the existence of self-similar solutions and cascades to small and large wavelengths of waves, which can be studied in the framework of the wave (or weak) turbulence theory (e.g. Badulin et al., 2005). With the aim to obtain more complete and precise modelling of sea states dynamics, we investigate here the possibility and consequences of taking into account the non-resonant interactions -quasi-resonant in practice- among 4 waves. A mathematical formalism has recently been proposed to account for these non-resonant interactions in a statistical framework by Annenkov & Shrira (2006) (Generalized Kinetic Equation, GKE) and Gramstad & Stiassnie (2013) (Phase Averaged Equation, PAE). In order to isolate the non-resonant contributions, we limit ourselves here to monodirectional (i.e. long-crested) wave trains, since in this case the 4-wave resonant interactions vanish. The (stochastic) modelling approaches proposed by Annenkov & Shrira (2006) and Gramstad & Stiassnie (2013) are compared to phase-resolving (deterministic) simulations based on a fully nonlinear potential approach (using a high-order spectral method, HOS). We study and compare the evolution dynamics of the wave spectrum at different time scales (i.e. over durations ranging from a few wave periods to 1000 periods), with the aim of highlighting the capabilities and limitations of the GKE-PAE models. Different situations are considered by varying the relative water depth, the initial steepness of the wave field, and the shape of the initial wave spectrum, including arbitrary forms. References: Annenkov S.Y., Shrira V.I. (2006) Role of non-resonant interactions in the evolution of nonlinear random water wave fields. J. Fluid Mech., 561, 181-207. Badulin S.I., Pushkarev A.N., Resio D., Zakharov V.E. (2005) Self-similarity of wind-driven seas. Nonlin. Proc. Geophys., 12, 891-946. Gramstad O., Stiassnie M. (2013) Phase-averaged equation for water waves. J. Fluid Mech., 718, 280- 303. Hasselmann K. (1962) On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum. Part 1. General theory. J. Fluid Mech., 12, 481-500. Zakharov V.E. (1968) Stability of periodic waves of finite amplitude on the surface of a deep fluid. J. App. Mech. Tech. Phys., 9(2), 190-194.

Confinement of surface waves at the air-water interface to control aerosol size and dispersity

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Nazarzadeh, Elijah; Wilson, Rab; King, Xi; Reboud, Julien; Tassieri, Manlio; Cooper, Jonathan M.

2017-11-01

The precise control over the size and dispersity of droplets, produced within aerosols, is of great interest across many manufacturing, food, cosmetic, and medical industries. Amongst these applications, the delivery of new classes of high value drugs to the lungs has recently attracted significant attention from pharmaceutical companies. This is commonly achieved through the mechanical excitation of surface waves at the air liquid interface of a parent liquid volume. Previous studies have established a correlation between the wavelength on the surface of liquid and the final aerosol size. In this work, we show that the droplet size distribution of aerosols can be controlled by constraining the liquid inside micron-sized cavities and coupling surface acoustic waves into different volumes of liquid inside micro-grids. In particular, we show that by reducing the characteristic physical confinement size (i.e., either the initial liquid volume or the cavities' diameters), higher harmonics of capillary waves are revealed with a consequent reduction of both aerosol mean size and dispersity. In doing so, we provide a new method for the generation and fine control of aerosols' sizes distribution.

The utility of surface temperature measurements for the remote sensing of surface soil water status

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Idso, S. B.; Jackson, R. D.; Reginato, R. J.; Schmugge, T. J.

1975-01-01

Experiments carried out on an Avondale loam soil indicated that the thermal inertia concept of soil water content detection is reasonably sound. The volumetric water contents of surface soil layers between 2 and 4 cm thick were found to be linear functions of the amplitude of the diurnal surface soil temperature wave for clear day-night periods. They were also found to be linear functions of the daily maximum value of the surface soil-air-temperature differential. Tests on three additional soils ranging from sandy loam to clay indicated that the relations determined for Avondale loam could not be accurately applied to these other soil types. When the moisture characteristic curves of each soil were used to transform water contents into pressure potentials, however, it was found that soil water pressure potential could be determined without prior knowledge of soil type, and thus its value as a potential soil water status survey tool was significantly enhanced.

Climatic data for the Cottonwood Lake area, Stutsman County, North Dakota 1982

USGS Publications Warehouse

Sturrock, A.M.; Hanson, B.A.; Scarborough, J.L.; Winter, T.C.

1986-01-01

Research on the hydrology of the Cottonwood Lake area, Stutsman County, North Dakota, includes study of evaporation. Presented here are those climatic data needed for energy-budget and mass-transfer evaporation studies, including: water-surface temperature, sediment temperature dry-bulb and wet-bulb air temperatures, vapor pressure at and above the water surface, wind speed, and short- and long-wave radiation. Data were collected at raft and land stations.

Climatic data for the Cottonwood Lake area, Stutsman County, North Dakota, 1983

USGS Publications Warehouse

Sturrock, A.M.; Hanson, B.A.; Scarborough, J.L.; Winter, T.C.

1987-01-01

Research on the hydrology of the Cottonwood Lake area, Stutsman County, North Dakota, includes study of evaporation. Climatic data needed for energy-budget and mass-transfer evaporation studies that were collected during 1983 include water-surface temperature, sediment temperature, dry-bulb and wet-bulb air temperature, vapor pressure at and above the water surface, wind speed, and short-and long-wave radiation. Data are collected at raft and land stations. (USGS)

Variation of surface water spectral response as a function of in situ sampling technique

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Davis, Bruce A.; Hodgson, Michael E.

1988-01-01

Tests were carried out to determine the spectral variation contributed by a particular sampling technique. A portable radiometer was used to measure the surface water spectral response. Variation due to the reflectance of objects near the radiometer (i.e., the boat side) during data acquisition was studied. Consideration was also given to the variation due to the temporal nature of the phenomena (i.e., wave activity).

Neutron whispering gallery

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Nesvizhevsky, Valery V.; Voronin, Alexei Yu.; Cubitt, Robert; Protasov, Konstantin V.

2010-02-01

The `whispering gallery' effect has been known since ancient times for sound waves in air, later in water and more recently for a broad range of electromagnetic waves: radio, optics, Roentgen and so on. It consists of wave localization near a curved reflecting surface and is expected for waves of various natures, for instance, for atoms and neutrons. For matter waves, it would include a new feature: a massive particle would be settled in quantum states, with parameters depending on its mass. Here, we present for the first time the quantum whispering-gallery effect for cold neutrons. This phenomenon provides an example of an exactly solvable problem analogous to the `quantum bouncer'; it is complementary to the recently discovered gravitationally bound quantum states of neutrons . These two phenomena provide a direct demonstration of the weak equivalence principle for a massive particle in a pure quantum state. Deeply bound whispering-gallery states are long-living and weakly sensitive to surface potential; highly excited states are short-living and very sensitive to the wall potential shape. Therefore, they are a promising tool for studying fundamental neutron-matter interactions, quantum neutron optics and surface physics effects.

The Influence of depth and surface waves on marine current turbine performance

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lust, Ethan; Flack, Karen; Luznik, Luksa; van Benthem, Max; Walker, Jessica

2013-11-01

Performance characteristics are presented for a 1/25th scale marine current turbine operating in calm conditions and in the presence of intermediate and deep water waves. The two-bladed turbine has radius of 0.4 m and a maximum blade pitch of 17°. The hydrofoil is a NACA63-618 which was selected to be Reynolds number independent for lift in the operational range (ReC = 2 - 4 × 105) . The experiments were performed in the 116 m tow-tank at the United States Naval Academy at depths of 0.8D and 1.75D measured from the blade tip to the mean free surface. Overall average values for power and thrust coefficient were found to be insensitive to wave form and weakly sensitive to turbine depth. Waves yield a small increase in turbine performance which can be explained by Stokes drift. Variations on performance parameters are on the same order of magnitude as the average value especially near the mean free surface and in the presence of high energy waves. Office of Naval Research.

Island wake produced by Antipodes Islands south of New Zealand

NASA Image and Video Library

1973-12-16

SL4-137-3655 (16 Dec. 1973) --- An island wake produced by the Antipodes Islands in the ocean current south of New Zealand is seen in this photograph taken from the Skylab space station in Earth orbit. A Skylab 4 crewmen took the picture with a hand-held 70mm Hasselblad camera. The bow wave pattern is quite evident and can be used to determine the current speed from the angle of the bow wave if the propagation speed of the surface wave is known. Also, evident is the darker band extending downstream from the island tens of miles. This is the actual wake of the island. The existence of water color differences from within to outside a turbulent island wake may indicate a temperature difference, with cooler water being stirred to the surface in the wake. This temperature difference could be used to drive a thermo-electric type generator to reduce small islands' dependence on imported oil for power generation. Photo credit: NASA

Downscaling wind and wavefields for 21st century coastal flood hazard projections in a region of complex terrain

USGS Publications Warehouse

O'Neill, Andrea; Erikson, Li; Barnard, Patrick

2017-01-01

While global climate models (GCMs) provide useful projections of near-surface wind vectors into the 21st century, resolution is not sufficient enough for use in regional wave modeling. Statistically downscaled GCM projections from Multivariate Adaptive Constructed Analogues provide daily averaged near-surface winds at an appropriate spatial resolution for wave modeling within the orographically complex region of San Francisco Bay, but greater resolution in time is needed to capture the peak of storm events. Short-duration high wind speeds, on the order of hours, are usually excluded in statistically downscaled climate models and are of key importance in wave and subsequent coastal flood modeling. Here we present a temporal downscaling approach, similar to constructed analogues, for near-surface winds suitable for use in local wave models and evaluate changes in wind and wave conditions for the 21st century. Reconstructed hindcast winds (1975–2004) recreate important extreme wind values within San Francisco Bay. A computationally efficient method for simulating wave heights over long time periods was used to screen for extreme events. Wave hindcasts show resultant maximum wave heights of 2.2 m possible within the Bay. Changes in extreme over-water wind speeds suggest contrasting trends within the different regions of San Francisco Bay, but 21th century projections show little change in the overall magnitude of extreme winds and locally generated waves.

Wave-induced mass transport affects daily Escherichia coli fluctuations in nearshore water.

PubMed

Ge, Zhongfu; Whitman, Richard L; Nevers, Meredith B; Phanikumar, Mantha S

2012-02-21

Characterization of diel variability of fecal indicator bacteria concentration in nearshore waters is of particular importance for development of water sampling standards and protection of public health. Significant nighttime increase in Escherichia coli (E. coli) concentration in beach water, previously observed at marine sites, has also been identified in summer 2000 from fixed locations in waist- and knee-deep waters at Chicago 63rd Street Beach, an embayed, tideless, freshwater beach with low currents at night (approximately 0.015 m s(-1)). A theoretical model using wave-induced mass transport velocity for advection was developed to assess the contribution of surface waves to the observed nighttime E. coli replenishment in the nearshore water. Using average wave conditions for the summer season of year 2000, the model predicted an amount of E. coli transported from water of intermediate depth, where sediment resuspension occurred intermittently, that would be sufficient to have elevated E. coli concentration in the surf and swash zones as observed. The nighttime replenishment of E. coli in the surf and swash zones revealed here is an important phase in the cycle of diel variations of E. coli concentration in nearshore water. According to previous findings in Ge et al. (Environ. Sci. Technol. 2010, 44, 6731-6737), enhanced current circulation in the embayment during the day tends to displace and deposit material offshore, which partially sets up the system by the early evening for a new period of nighttime onshore movement. This wave-induced mass transport effect, although facilitating a significant base supply of material shoreward, can be perturbed or significantly influenced by high currents (orders of magnitude larger than a typical wave-induced mass transport velocity), current-induced turbulence, and tidal forcing.

Wave-induced mass transport affects daily Escherichia coli fluctuations in nearshore water

USGS Publications Warehouse

Ge, Zhongfu; Whitman, Richard L.; Nevers, Meredith B.; Phanikumar, Mantha S.

2012-01-01

Characterization of diel variability of fecal indicator bacteria concentration in nearshore waters is of particular importance for development of water sampling standards and protection of public health. Significant nighttime increase in Escherichia coli (E. coli) concentration in beach water, previously observed at marine sites, has also been identified in summer 2000 from fixed locations in waist- and knee-deep waters at Chicago 63rd Street Beach, an embayed, tideless, freshwater beach with low currents at night (approximately 0.015 m s–1). A theoretical model using wave-induced mass transport velocity for advection was developed to assess the contribution of surface waves to the observed nighttime E. coli replenishment in the nearshore water. Using average wave conditions for the summer season of year 2000, the model predicted an amount of E. coli transported from water of intermediate depth, where sediment resuspension occurred intermittently, that would be sufficient to have elevated E. coli concentration in the surf and swash zones as observed. The nighttime replenishment of E. coli in the surf and swash zones revealed here is an important phase in the cycle of diel variations of E. coli concentration in nearshore water. According to previous findings in Ge et al. (Environ. Sci. Technol. 2010, 44, 6731–6737), enhanced current circulation in the embayment during the day tends to displace and deposit material offshore, which partially sets up the system by the early evening for a new period of nighttime onshore movement. This wave-induced mass transport effect, although facilitating a significant base supply of material shoreward, can be perturbed or significantly influenced by high currents (orders of magnitude larger than a typical wave-induced mass transport velocity), current-induced turbulence, and tidal forcing.

On exact traveling-wave solutions for local fractional Korteweg-de Vries equation.

PubMed

Yang, Xiao-Jun; Tenreiro Machado, J A; Baleanu, Dumitru; Cattani, Carlo

2016-08-01

This paper investigates the Korteweg-de Vries equation within the scope of the local fractional derivative formulation. The exact traveling wave solutions of non-differentiable type with the generalized functions defined on Cantor sets are analyzed. The results for the non-differentiable solutions when fractal dimension is 1 are also discussed. It is shown that the exact solutions for the local fractional Korteweg-de Vries equation characterize the fractal wave on shallow water surfaces.

Effect of Multipath Laser Shock Processing on Microhardness, Surface Roughness, and Wear Resistance of 2024-T3 Al Alloy

PubMed Central

Kadhim, Abdulhadi; Salim, Evan T.; Fayadh, Saeed M.; Al-Amiery, Ahmed A.; Kadhum, Abdul Amir H.; Mohamad, Abu Bakar

2014-01-01

Laser shock processing (LSP) is an innovative surface treatment technique with high peak power, short pulse, and cold hardening for strengthening metal materials. LSP is based on the application of a high intensity pulsed laser beam (I > 1 GW/cm2; t < 50 ns) at the interface between the metallic target and the surrounding medium (a transparent confining material, normally water) forcing a sudden vaporization of the metallic surface into a high temperature and density plasma that immediately develops inducing a shock wave propagating into the material. The shock wave induces plastic deformation and a residual stress distribution in the target material. In this paper we study the increase of microhardness and surface roughness with the increase of laser pulse energy in 2024-T3 Al alloy. The influence of the thickness of the confining layer (water) on microhardness and surface roughness is also studied. In addition, the effect of LSP treatment with best conditions on wear behaviors of the alloy was investigated. PMID:24737973

Experimental investigation of the propagation of a planar shock wave through a two-phase gas-liquid medium

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Chauvin, A.; Jourdan, G.; Daniel, E.; Houas, L.; Tosello, R.

2011-11-01

We conducted a series of shock tube experiments to study the influence of a cloud of water droplets on the propagation of a planar shock wave. In a vertically oriented shock tube, the cloud of droplets was released downwards into the air at atmospheric pressure while the shock wave propagated upwards. Two shock wave Mach numbers, 1.3 and 1.5, and three different heights of clouds, 150 mm, 400 mm, and 700 mm, were tested with an air-water volume fraction and a droplet diameter fixed at 1.2% and 500 μm, respectively. From high-speed visualization and pressure measurements, we analyzed the effect of water clouds on the propagation of the shock wave. It was shown that the pressure histories recorded in the two-phase gas-liquid mixture are different from those previously obtained in the gas-solid case. This different behavior is attributed to the process of atomization of the droplets, which is absent in the gas-solid medium. Finally, it was observed that the shock wave attenuation was dependent on the exchange surface crossed by the shock combined with the breakup criterion.

Numerical Simulation of Bow Waves and Transom-Stern Flows

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Dommermuth, Douglas G.; Schlageter, Eric A.; Talcott, John C.; Wyatt, Donald C.; Novikov, Evgeny A.

1997-11-01

A stratified-flow formulation is used to model the breaking bow wave and the separated transom-stern flow that are generated by a ship moving with forward speed. The interface of the air with the water is identified as the zero level-set of a three-dimensional function. The ship is modeled using a body-force technique on a cartesian grid. The three-dimensional body-force is generated using a surface panelization of the entire ship, including the above-water geometry up to and including the deck. The effects of surface tension are modeled as a source term that is concentrated at the air-water interface. The effects of gravity are modeled as a volumetric force. The three-dimensional, unsteady, Navier-Stokes equations are expressed in primitive-variable form. A LES formulation with a Smagorinsky sub-grid-scale model is used to model turbulence. Numerical convergence is demonstrated using 128x64x65, 256x128x129, and 512x256x257 grid points. The numerical results compare well to whisker-probe measurements of the free-surface elevation generated by a naval combatant.

Controlling Heterogeneous Catalysis of Water Dissociation Using Cu-Ni Bimetallic Alloy Surfaces: A Quantum Dynamics Study.

PubMed

Ray, Dhiman; Ghosh, Smita; Tiwari, Ashwani Kumar

2018-06-07

Copper-Nickel bimetallic alloys are emerging heterogeneous catalysts for water dissociation which is the rate determining step of industrially important Water Gas Shift (WGS) reaction. Yet, the detailed quantum dynamics studies of water-surface scattering in literature are limited to pure metal surfaces. We present here, a three dimensional wave-packet dynamics study of water dissociation on Cu-Ni alloy surfaces, using a pseudo diatomic model of water on a London-Eyring-Polanyi-Sato (LEPS) potential energy surface in order to study the effect of initial vibration, rotation and orientation of water molecule on reactivity. For all the chosen surfaces reactivity increases significantly with vibrational excitation. In general, for lower vibrational states the reactivity increases with increasing rotational excitation but it decreases in higher vibrational states. Molecular orientation strongly affects reactivity by helping the molecule to align along the reaction path at higher vibrational states. For different alloys, the reaction probability follows the trend of barrier heights and the surfaces having all Ni atoms in the uppermost layer are much more reactive than the ones with Cu atoms. Hence the nature of the alloy surface and initial quantum state of the incoming molecule significantly influence the reactivity in surface catalyzed water dissociation.

Diffraction of waves past two vertical thin plates on the free surface: A comparison of theory and experiment

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Shin, Dong Min; Cho, Yeunwoo

2017-11-01

Diffraction of waves past two vertical thin plates on the free surface is studied theoretically and experimentally. A particular attention is paid to the wave motions depending on the relationship between the wavelength (λ) and the width (b) between the two plates for a given draft (d) and water depth (h). For d/h =0.19, at resonance modes when b/ λ = 0.245 (first), 0.695 (second), 1.11 (third), 1.55 (fourth), etc., the overall transmission features the maximum with no reflection. In the first mode, the water column between the plates moves up and down with no wave motions. In the second mode, it shows the fundamental standing wave motion. In the remaining modes, it shows another standing wave motions with relatively higher frequencies. As d/h increases (0.1-0.4), the resonance points move to values b/ λ = 0, 0.5, 1, 1.5, etc., and, at those resonance points, the peaks of reflection and transmission coefficients become more sharp and narrow. The loss of energy of incoming waves is also observed at every transmission in the two plate system, and, in particular, more energy loss near a resonant frequency. In addition, it is found that energy is lost mainly due to the transmission process not the reflection process. This work was supported by the National Research Foundation of Korea (NRF). (NRF-2017R1D1A1B03028299).

Hydroelectromechanical modelling of a piezoelectric wave energy converter

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Renzi, E.

2016-11-01

We investigate the hydroelectromechanical-coupled dynamics of a piezoelectric wave energy converter. The converter is made of a flexible bimorph plate, clamped at its ends and forced to motion by incident ocean surface waves. The piezoceramic layers are connected in series and transform the elastic motion of the plate into useful electricity by means of the piezoelectric effect. By using a distributed-parameter analytical approach, we couple the linear piezoelectric constitutive equations for the plate with the potential-flow equations for the surface water waves. The resulting system of governing partial differential equations yields a new hydroelectromechanical dispersion relation, whose complex roots are determined with a numerical approach. The effect of the piezoelectric coupling in the hydroelastic domain generates a system of short- and long-crested weakly damped progressive waves travelling along the plate. We show that the short-crested flexural wave component gives a dominant contribution to the generated power. We determine the hydroelectromechanical resonant periods of the device, at which the power output is significant.

Soliton solutions to the fifth-order Korteweg-de Vries equation and their applications to surface and internal water waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Khusnutdinova, K. R.; Stepanyants, Y. A.; Tranter, M. R.

2018-02-01

We study solitary wave solutions of the fifth-order Korteweg-de Vries equation which contains, besides the traditional quadratic nonlinearity and third-order dispersion, additional terms including cubic nonlinearity and fifth order linear dispersion, as well as two nonlinear dispersive terms. An exact solitary wave solution to this equation is derived, and the dependence of its amplitude, width, and speed on the parameters of the governing equation is studied. It is shown that the derived solution can represent either an embedded or regular soliton depending on the equation parameters. The nonlinear dispersive terms can drastically influence the existence of solitary waves, their nature (regular or embedded), profile, polarity, and stability with respect to small perturbations. We show, in particular, that in some cases embedded solitons can be stable even with respect to interactions with regular solitons. The results obtained are applicable to surface and internal waves in fluids, as well as to waves in other media (plasma, solid waveguides, elastic media with microstructure, etc.).

Recurrence in truncated Boussinesq models for nonlinear waves in shallow water

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Elgar, Steve; Freilich, M. H.; Guza, R. T.

1990-01-01

The rapid spatial recurrence of weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive progressive shallow-water waves is examined using a numerical integration technique on the discretized and truncated form of the Boussinesq equations. This study primarily examines recurrence in wave fields with Ursell number O(1) and characterizes the sensitivity of recurrence to initial spectral shape and number of allowed frequency modes. It is shown that the rapid spatial recurrence is not an inherent property of the considered Boussinesq systems for evolution distances of 10-50 wavelengths. The main result of the study is that highly truncated Boussinesq models of resonant shallow-water ocean surface gravity waves predict rapid multiple recurrence cycles, but that this is an artifact dependent on the number of allowed modes. For initial conditions consisting of essentially all energy concentrated in a single mode, damping of the recurrence cycles increases as the number of low-power background modes increases. When more than 32 modes are allowed, the recurrence behavior is relatively insensitive to the number of allowed modes.

Analysis of the applicability of geophysical methods and computer modelling in determining groundwater level

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Czaja, Klaudia; Matula, Rafal

2014-05-01

The paper presents analysis of the possibilities of application geophysical methods to investigation groundwater conditions. In this paper groundwater is defined as liquid water flowing through shallow aquifers. Groundwater conditions are described through the distribution of permeable layers (like sand, gravel, fractured rock) and impermeable or low-permeable layers (like clay, till, solid rock) in the subsurface. GPR (Ground Penetrating Radar), ERT(Electrical Resistivity Tomography), VES (Vertical Electric Soundings) and seismic reflection, refraction and MASW (Multichannel Analysis of Surface Waves) belong to non - invasive, surface, geophysical methods. Due to differences in physical parameters like dielectric constant, resistivity, density and elastic properties for saturated and saturated zones it is possible to use geophysical techniques for groundwater investigations. Few programmes for GPR, ERT, VES and seismic modelling were applied in order to verify and compare results. Models differ in values of physical parameters such as dielectric constant, electrical conductivity, P and S-wave velocity and the density, layers thickness and the depth of occurrence of the groundwater level. Obtained results for computer modelling for GPR and seismic methods and interpretation of test field measurements are presented. In all of this methods vertical resolution is the most important issue in groundwater investigations. This require proper measurement methodology e.g. antennas with frequencies high enough, Wenner array in electrical surveys, proper geometry for seismic studies. Seismic velocities of unconsolidated rocks like sand and gravel are strongly influenced by porosity and water saturation. No influence of water saturation degree on seismic velocities is observed below a value of about 90% water saturation. A further saturation increase leads to a strong increase of P-wave velocity and a slight decrease of S-wave velocity. But in case of few models only the relationship between differences in density and P-wave and S-wave velocity were observed. This is probably due to the way the modelling program calculates the wave field. Trace by trace should be analyzed during GPR interpretation, especially changes in signal amplitude. High permittivity of water results in higher permittivity of material and high reflection coefficient of electromagnetic wave. In case of electrical studies groundwater mineralization has the highest influence. When the layer thickness is small VES gives much better results than ERT.

Co-seismic response of water level in the Jingle well (China) associated with the Gorkha Nepal (Mw 7.8) earthquake

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

He, Anhua; Fan, Xuefang; Zhao, Gang; Liu, Yang; Singh, Ramesh P.; Hu, Yuliang

2017-09-01

Changes in co-seismic water levels associated with the Gorkha Nepal earthquake (25 April 2015, Mw 7.8) were recorded in the Jingle well in Shanxi Province China (longitude E112.03°, latitude N38.35°, about 2769 km from epicenter). Based on the observed water levels, we clearly identified signals relating to P, S and surface waves. However, the water temperature recorded at a depth of 350 m shows no co-seismic changes. A spectrum analysis of co-seismic variations of water level shows that the oscillation frequency and amplitude of water level in the borehole are determined by the natural frequency of the borehole, which is not associated with the propagation of seismic waves. The borehole-aquifer system shows a large amplification associated with ground vibrations generated by earthquakes. Considering the local hydro-geological map and the temperature gradient of the Jingle well, a large volume ;groundwater reservoir; model can be used to explain these processes. Due to seismic wave propagation, the volume of a well-confined aquifer expands and contracts forming fractures that change the water flow. In the well-confined aquifer, water levels oscillate simultaneously with high amplitude ground shaking during earthquakes. However, the water in the center of the ;underground reservoir; remains relatively stationary, without any changes in the water temperature. In addition, a possible precursor wave is recorded in the water level at the Jingle well prior to the Gorkha earthquake.

Wave Impact on a Wall: Comparison of Experiments with Similarity Solutions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wang, A.; Duncan, J. H.; Lathrop, D. P.

2014-11-01

The impact of a steep water wave on a fixed partially submerged cube is studied with experiments and theory. The temporal evolution of the water surface profile upstream of the front face of the cube in its center plane is measured with a cinematic laser-induced fluorescence technique using frame rates up to 4,500 Hz. For a small range of cube positions, the surface profiles are found to form a nearly circular arc with upward curvature between the front face of the cube and a point just downstream of the wave crest. As the crest approaches the cube, the effective radius of this portion of the profile decreases rapidly. At the same time, the portion of the profile that is upstream of the crest approaches a straight line with a downward slope of about 15°. As the wave impact continues, the circular arc shrinks to zero radius with very high acceleration and a sudden transition to a high-speed vertical jet occurs. This flow singularity is modeled with a power-law scaling in time, which is used to create a time-independent system of equations of motion. The scaled governing equations are solved numerically and the similarly scaled measured free surface shapes, are favorably compared with the solutions. The support of the Office of Naval Research is gratefully acknowledged.

Measurements of shock-induced guided and surface acoustic waves along boreholes in poroelastic materials

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Chao, Gabriel; Smeulders, D. M. J.; van Dongen, M. E. H.

2006-05-01

Acoustic experiments on the propagation of guided waves along water-filled boreholes in water-saturated porous materials are reported. The experiments were conducted using a shock tube technique. An acoustic funnel structure was placed inside the tube just above the sample in order to enhance the excitation of the surface modes. A fast Fourier transform-Prony-spectral ratio method is implemented to transform the data from the time-space domain to the frequency-wave-number domain. Frequency-dependent phase velocities and attenuation coefficients were measured using this technique. The results for a Berea sandstone material show a clear excitation of the fundamental surface mode, the pseudo-Stoneley wave. The comparison of the experimental results with numerical predictions based on Biot's theory of poromechanics [J. Acoust. Soc. Am. 28, 168 (1956)], shows that the oscillating fluid flow at the borehole wall is the dominant loss mechanism governing the pseudo-Stoneley wave and it is properly described by the Biot's model at frequencies below 40 kHz. At higher frequencies, a systematic underestimation of the theoretical predictions is found, which can be attributed to the existence of other losses mechanisms neglected in the Biot formulation. Higher-order guided modes associated with the compressional wave in the porous formation and the cylindrical geometry of the shock tube were excited, and detailed information was obtained on the frequency-dependent phase velocity and attenuation in highly porous and permeable materials. The measured attenuation of the guided wave associated with the compressional wave reveals the presence of regular oscillatory patterns that can be attributed to radial resonances. This oscillatory behavior is also numerically predicted, although the measured attenuation values are one order of magnitude higher than the corresponding theoretical values. The phase velocities of the higher-order modes are generally well predicted by theory.

Wave friction factor rediscovered

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Le Roux, J. P.

2012-02-01

The wave friction factor is commonly expressed as a function of the horizontal water particle semi-excursion ( A wb) at the top of the boundary layer. A wb, in turn, is normally derived from linear wave theory by {{U_{{wb}}/T_{{w}}}}{{2π }} , where U wb is the maximum water particle velocity measured at the top of the boundary layer and T w is the wave period. However, it is shown here that A wb determined in this way deviates drastically from its real value under both linear and non-linear waves. Three equations for smooth, transitional and rough boundary conditions, respectively, are proposed to solve this problem, all three being a function of U wb, T w, and δ, the thickness of the boundary layer. Because these variables can be determined theoretically for any bottom slope and water depth using the deepwater wave conditions, there is no need to physically measure them. Although differing substantially from many modern attempts to define the wave friction factor, the results coincide with equations proposed in the 1960s for either smooth or rough boundary conditions. The findings also confirm that the long-held notion of circular water particle motion down to the bottom in deepwater conditions is erroneous, the motion in fact being circular at the surface and elliptical at depth in both deep and shallow water conditions, with only horizontal motion at the top of the boundary layer. The new equations are incorporated in an updated version (WAVECALC II) of the Excel program published earlier in this journal by Le Roux et al. Geo-Mar Lett 30(5): 549-560, (2010).

Earth Observations taken by the Expedition 27 Crew

NASA Image and Video Library

2011-04-02

ISS027-E-009771 (2 April 2011) --- Bassas da India is featured in this image photographed by an Expedition 27 crew member on the International Space Station. The vantage point of crew members onboard the space station provides many dramatic views of Earth?s surface. This detailed photograph of the Bassas da India, an uninhabited atoll in the Indian Ocean (between the Mozambique coast of Africa and the island of Madagascar) has an almost surreal quality due to varying degrees of sunglint. Sunglint is an optical phenomena caused by light reflecting off of a water surface directly back towards the observer. Variations in the roughness of the water surface?presence or absence of waves due to wind and water currents?will cause differences in the intensity of the sunglint. The presence of other materials, such as oils or surfactants, can also change the properties of the water surface. Here the presence of currents is highlighted as darker patches or streaks (left and upper right). In contrast, shallow water in the lagoon (center) presents a more uniform, mirror-like appearance in sunglint suggesting that there are no subsurface currents present. Wave crests visible around the atoll are likely the result of both surface winds and subsurface currents. The Bassas da India atoll is part of the French Southern and Antarctic Lands. It is uninhabited due to its complete submergence during high tide ? there is no vegetation established on the atoll for the same reason. The atoll is approximately 10 kilometers in diameter, and covers an area (including the lagoon) of approximately 80 square kilometers.

Variability in Benthic Exchange Rate, Depth, and Residence Time Beneath a Shallow Coastal Estuary

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Russoniello, Christopher J.; Heiss, James W.; Michael, Holly A.

2018-03-01

Hydrodynamically driven benthic exchange of water between the water column and shallow seabed aquifer is a significant and dynamic component of coastal and estuarine fluid budgets. Associated exchange of solutes promotes ecologically important chemical reactions, so quantifying benthic exchange rates, depths, and residence times constrains coastal chemical cycling estimates. We present the first combined field, numerical, and analytical modeling investigation of wave-induced exchange. Temporal variability of exchange was calculated with data collected by instruments deployed in a shallow estuary for 11 days. Differential pressure sensors recorded pressure gradients across the seabed, and up- and down-looking ADCPs recorded currents and pressures to determine wave parameters, surface-water currents, and water depth. Wave-induced exchange was calculated (1) directly from differential pressure measurements, and indirectly with an analytical model based on wave parameters from (2) ADCP and (3) wind data. Wave-induced exchange from pressure measurements and ADCP-measured wave parameters matched well, but both exceeded wind-based values. Exchange induced by tidal pumping and current-bed form interaction—the other primary drivers in shallow coastal waters were calculated from tidal stage variation and ADCP-measured currents. Exchange from waves (mean = 20.0 cm/d; range = 1.75-92.3 cm/d) greatly exceeded exchange due to tides (mean = 3.7 cm/d) and current-bed form interaction (mean = 6.5 × 10-2 cm/d). Groundwater flow models showed aquifer properties affect wave-driven benthic exchange: residence time and depth increased and exchange rates decreased with increasing hydraulic diffusivity (ratio of aquifer permeability to compressibility). This new understanding of benthic exchange will help managers assess its control over chemical fluxes to marine systems.

Ice shelf structure derived from dispersion curve analysis of ambient seismic noise, Ross Ice Shelf, Antarctica

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Diez, A.; Bromirski, P. D.; Gerstoft, P.; Stephen, R. A.; Anthony, R. E.; Aster, R. C.; Cai, C.; Nyblade, A.; Wiens, D. A.

2016-05-01

An L-configured, three-component short period seismic array was deployed on the Ross Ice Shelf, Antarctica during November 2014. Polarization analysis of ambient noise data from these stations shows linearly polarized waves for frequency bands between 0.2 and 2 Hz. A spectral peak at about 1.6 Hz is interpreted as the resonance frequency of the water column and is used to estimate the water layer thickness below the ice shelf. The frequency band from 4 to 18 Hz is dominated by Rayleigh and Love waves propagating from the north that, based on daily temporal variations, we conclude were generated by field camp activity. Frequency-slowness plots were calculated using beamforming. Resulting Love and Rayleigh wave dispersion curves were inverted for the shear wave velocity profile within the firn and ice to ˜150 m depth. The derived density profile allows estimation of the pore close-off depth and the firn-air content thickness. Separate inversions of Rayleigh and Love wave dispersion curves give different shear wave velocity profiles within the firn. We attribute this difference to an effective anisotropy due to fine layering. The layered structure of firn, ice, water and the seafloor results in a characteristic dispersion curve below 7 Hz. Forward modelling the observed Rayleigh wave dispersion curves using representative firn, ice, water and sediment structures indicates that Rayleigh waves are observed when wavelengths are long enough to span the distance from the ice shelf surface to the seafloor. The forward modelling shows that analysis of seismic data from an ice shelf provides the possibility of resolving ice shelf thickness, water column thickness and the physical properties of the ice shelf and underlying seafloor using passive-source seismic data.

Planar time-resolved PIV for velocity and pressure retrieval in atmospheric boundary layer over surface waves.

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Troitskaya, Yuliya; Kandaurov, Alexander; Sergeev, Daniil; Bopp, Maximilian; Caulliez, Guillemette

2017-04-01

Air-sea coupling in general is important for weather, climate, fluxes. Wind wave source is crucially important for surface waves' modeling. But the wind-wave growth rate is strongly uncertain. Using direct measurements of pressure by wave-following Elliott probe [1] showed, weak and indefinite dependence of wind-wave growth rate on the wave steepness, while Grare et.al. [2] discuss the limitations of direct measurements of pressure associated with the inability to measure the pressure close to the surface by contact methods. Recently non-invasive methods for determining the pressure on the basis of technology of time-resolved PIV are actively developed [3]. Retrieving air flow velocities by 2D PIV techniques was started from Reul et al [4]. The first attempt for retrieving wind pressure field of waves in the laboratory tank from the time-resolved PIV measurements was done in [5]. The experiments were performed at the Large Air-Sea Interaction Facility (LASIF) - MIO/Luminy (length 40 m, cross section of air channel 3.2 x 1.6 m). For 18 regimes with wind speed up to 14 m/s including presence of puddle waves, a combination of time resolved PIV technique and optical measurements of water surface form was applied to detailed investigation of the characteristics of the wind flow over the water surface. Ammonium chloride smoke was used for flow visualization illuminated by two 6 Wt blue diode lasers combined into a vertical laser plane. Particle movement was captured with high-speed camera using Scheimpflug technique (up to 20 kHz frame rate with 4-frame bursts, spatial resolution about 190 μm, field of view 314x12 mm). Velocity air flow field was retrieved by PIV images processing with adaptive cross-correlation method on the curvilinear grid following surface wave form. The resulting time resolved instantaneous velocity fields on regular grid allowed us to obtain momentum fluxes directly from measured air velocity fluctuations. The average wind velocity patterns were retrieved using conditional averaging with phase like in [5]. Basing on these data we then retrieve the pressure field and find the air-sea interaction parameters. Peculiarity of these experiments was the presence of noticeable modulation of the waves, so we describe peculiarities of the pressure distribution over a wave-train. This work was supported by the Russian Foundation of Basic Research (project codes 16-05-00839, 16-55-52025, 15-35-20953), President Grant for young scientists MK-2041.2017.5, Russian Science Foundation (Agreements 14-17-00667, 15-17-20009) and FP7 Collaborative Project No. 612610. References 1. Saveliev I., et. al. (2011) J. Phys. Oceanogr. 41. 1328-1344. 2. Grare, L., et. al. (2013) J. Fluid Mech., 722, 5-50. 3. van Oudheusden B.W. (2013) Meas. Sci. Technol. 24. 032001 (32pp) 4. Reul N., et.al. (1999) Phys. Fluids. 11. 1959-1961. 5. Troitskaya Yu., et. al.(2011). J. Phys. Oceanogr., 41, 1421-1454

Do we understand the temperature profile of air-water interface?

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Solcerova, A.; van Emmerik, T. H. M.; Uittenbogaard, R.; van de Ven, F. H. M.; Van De Giesen, N.

2017-12-01

Lakes and reservoirs exchange energy with the atmosphere through long-wave radiation and turbulent heat fluxes. Calculation of those fluxes often depend on the surface temperature. Several recent studies used high resolution Distributed Temperature Sensing (DTS) to measure the temperature of air-water interface. We present results of three of such studies conducted on three different locations with three different climates (Ghana, Israel, The Netherland). Measurements from all presented studies show a distinct temperature drop close to the water surface during daytime. We provide several possible explanations for existence of such deviation of temperature, and discuss the plausibility of each. Explaining the measured temperature drop is crucial for a better understanding of the energy balance of lake surface, and estimation of the surface energy balance.

Numerical and experimental results on the spectral wave transfer in finite depth

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Benassai, Guido

2016-04-01

Determination of the form of the one-dimensional surface gravity wave spectrum in water of finite depth is important for many scientific and engineering applications. Spectral parameters of deep water and intermediate depth waves serve as input data for the design of all coastal structures and for the description of many coastal processes. Moreover, the wave spectra are given as an input for the response and seakeeping calculations of high speed vessels in extreme sea conditions and for reliable calculations of the amount of energy to be extracted by wave energy converters (WEC). Available data on finite depth spectral form is generally extrapolated from parametric forms applicable in deep water (e.g., JONSWAP) [Hasselmann et al., 1973; Mitsuyasu et al., 1980; Kahma, 1981; Donelan et al., 1992; Zakharov, 2005). The present paper gives a contribution in this field through the validation of the offshore energy spectra transfer from given spectral forms through the measurement of inshore wave heights and spectra. The wave spectra on deep water were recorded offshore Ponza by the Wave Measurement Network (Piscopia et al.,2002). The field regressions between the spectral parameters, fp and the nondimensional energy with the fetch length were evaluated for fetch-limited sea conditions. These regressions gave the values of the spectral parameters for the site of interest. The offshore wave spectra were transfered from the measurement station offshore Ponza to a site located offshore the Gulf of Salerno. The offshore local wave spectra so obtained were transfered on the coastline with the TMA model (Bouws et al., 1985). Finally the numerical results, in terms of significant wave heights, were compared with the wave data recorded by a meteo-oceanographic station owned by Naples Hydrographic Office on the coastline of Salerno in 9m depth. Some considerations about the wave energy to be potentially extracted by Wave Energy Converters were done and the results were discussed.

Nonlinear wave interactions in shallow water magnetohydrodynamics of astrophysical plasma

DOE Office of Scientific and Technical Information (OSTI.GOV)

Klimachkov, D. A., E-mail: klimachkovdmitry@gmail.com; Petrosyan, A. S., E-mail: apetrosy@iki.rssi.ru

2016-05-15

The rotating magnetohydrodynamic flows of a thin layer of astrophysical and space plasmas with a free surface in a vertical external magnetic field are considered in the shallow water approximation. The presence of a vertical external magnetic field changes significantly the dynamics of wave processes in an astrophysical plasma, in contrast to a neutral fluid and a plasma layer in an external toroidal magnetic field. There are three-wave nonlinear interactions in the case under consideration. Using the asymptotic method of multiscale expansions, we have derived nonlinear equations for the interaction of wave packets: three magneto- Poincare waves, three magnetostrophic waves,more » two magneto-Poincare and one magnetostrophic waves, and two magnetostrophic and one magneto-Poincare waves. The existence of decay instabilities and parametric amplification is predicted. We show that a magneto-Poincare wave decays into two magneto-Poincare waves, a magnetostrophic wave decays into two magnetostrophic waves, a magneto-Poincare wave decays into one magneto-Poincare and one magnetostrophic waves, and a magnetostrophic wave decays into one magnetostrophic and one magneto-Poincare waves. There are the following parametric amplification mechanisms: the parametric amplification of magneto-Poincare waves, the parametric amplification of magnetostrophic waves, the amplification of a magneto-Poincare wave in the field of a magnetostrophic wave, and the amplification of a magnetostrophic wave in the field of a magneto-Poincare wave. The instability growth rates and parametric amplification factors have been found for the corresponding processes.« less

Self-similarity of solitary waves on inertia-dominated falling liquid films.

PubMed

Denner, Fabian; Pradas, Marc; Charogiannis, Alexandros; Markides, Christos N; van Wachem, Berend G M; Kalliadasis, Serafim

2016-03-01

We propose consistent scaling of solitary waves on inertia-dominated falling liquid films, which accurately accounts for the driving physical mechanisms and leads to a self-similar characterization of solitary waves. Direct numerical simulations of the entire two-phase system are conducted using a state-of-the-art finite volume framework for interfacial flows in an open domain that was previously validated against experimental film-flow data with excellent agreement. We present a detailed analysis of the wave shape and the dispersion of solitary waves on 34 different water films with Reynolds numbers Re=20-120 and surface tension coefficients σ=0.0512-0.072 N m(-1) on substrates with inclination angles β=19°-90°. Following a detailed analysis of these cases we formulate a consistent characterization of the shape and dispersion of solitary waves, based on a newly proposed scaling derived from the Nusselt flat film solution, that unveils a self-similarity as well as the driving mechanism of solitary waves on gravity-driven liquid films. Our results demonstrate that the shape of solitary waves, i.e., height and asymmetry of the wave, is predominantly influenced by the balance of inertia and surface tension. Furthermore, we find that the dispersion of solitary waves on the inertia-dominated falling liquid films considered in this study is governed by nonlinear effects and only driven by inertia, with surface tension and gravity having a negligible influence.

Development and Calibration of Two and Four Wire Water Surface Wave Height Measurement Systems

DTIC Science & Technology

1992-12-01

ON 0; "I$ -’ AGE S/N 0102-LF-01 -6603 Unclassified i Unclassified SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE 19 ABSTRACT (Continued) Hertz and decayed at 50...to 70 dB per decade, or ascu -5 to W-7 for both systems. Gravity wave phase speed and wavelength measurements were performed with capaci- tance system

Mechanical balance laws for fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive water waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kalisch, Henrik; Khorsand, Zahra; Mitsotakis, Dimitrios

2016-10-01

The Serre-Green-Naghdi system is a coupled, fully nonlinear system of dispersive evolution equations which approximates the full water wave problem. The system is known to describe accurately the wave motion at the surface of an incompressible inviscid fluid in the case when the fluid flow is irrotational and two-dimensional. The system is an extension of the well known shallow-water system to the situation where the waves are long, but not so long that dispersive effects can be neglected. In the current work, the focus is on deriving mass, momentum and energy densities and fluxes associated with the Serre-Green-Naghdi system. These quantities arise from imposing balance equations of the same asymptotic order as the evolution equations. In the case of an even bed, the conservation equations are satisfied exactly by the solutions of the Serre-Green-Naghdi system. The case of variable bathymetry is more complicated, with mass and momentum conservation satisfied exactly, and energy conservation satisfied only in a global sense. In all cases, the quantities found here reduce correctly to the corresponding counterparts in both the Boussinesq and the shallow-water scaling. One consequence of the present analysis is that the energy loss appearing in the shallow-water theory of undular bores is fully compensated by the emergence of oscillations behind the bore front. The situation is analyzed numerically by approximating solutions of the Serre-Green-Naghdi equations using a finite-element discretization coupled with an adaptive Runge-Kutta time integration scheme, and it is found that the energy is indeed conserved nearly to machine precision. As a second application, the shoaling of solitary waves on a plane beach is analyzed. It appears that the Serre-Green-Naghdi equations are capable of predicting both the shape of the free surface and the evolution of kinetic and potential energy with good accuracy in the early stages of shoaling.

Real-Time Monitoring of Azo Dye Interfacial Adsorption at Silica-Water Interface by Total Internal Reflection-Induced Surface Evanescent Wave.

PubMed

Xiong, Yan; Wang, Qing; Duan, Ming; Tan, Jun; Fang, Shenwen; Wu, Jiayi

2018-06-19

An interface research method based on total internal reflection induced evanescent wave (TIR-EW) is developed to monitor the adsorption behavior of azo dye at the silica-water interface. The monitoring system is constructed by employing silica optical fiber (SOF) as both charged substrate for dye adsorption and light transmission waveguide for evanescent wave production. According to the change of evanescent wave intensity and followed by Beer's law, the methylene blue (MB) adsorption behavior can be real-time monitored at the silica-water interface. Langmuir adsorption model and pseudo-first-order model are applied to obtain the related thermodynamic and kinetic data. The adsorption equilibrium constant ( K ads ) and adsorption free energy (Δ G) of MB at the silica-water interface are determined to be (3.3 ± 0.5) × 10 4 M -1 and -25.7 ± 1.7 kJ mol -1 . Meanwhile, this method is highlighted to isolate elementary processes of adsorption and desorption under steady-state conditions, and gives adsorption rate constant ( k a ) and desorption rate constant ( k d ) of 8585 ± 19.8 min -1 and 0.26 ± 0.0006 min -1 for 15 r/min flow rate. The surface interaction process is revealed and adsorption mechanism is proposed, indicating MB first adsorbed on Si-O - sites through electrostatic attraction and then on Si-OH sites through hydrogen bond with increasing MB concentrations. Our findings from this study provided molecular-level interpretation of azo dye adsorption at silica-water interface, and the results provide important insight into how MB adsorption can be controlled at the interface.

The influences of soil and nearby structures on dispersion characteristics of wave propagating along buried plastic pipes

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Liu, Shuyong; Jiang, J.; Parr, Nicola

2016-09-01

Water loss in distribution systems is a global problem for the water industry and governments. According to the international water supply association (IWSA), as a result of leaks from distribution pipes, 20% to 30% of water is lost while in transit from treatment plants to consumers. Although governments have tried to push the water industry to reduce the water leaks, a lot of experts have pointed out that a wide use of plastic pipes instead of metal pipes in recent years has caused difficulties in the detection of leaks using current acoustic technology. Leaks from plastic pipes are much quieter than traditional metal pipes and comparing to metal pipes the plastic pipes have very different coupling characteristics with soil, water and surrounding structures, such as other pipes, road surface and building foundations. The dispersion characteristics of wave propagating along buried plastic pipes are investigated in this paper using finite element and boundary element based models. Both empty and water- filled pipes were considered. Influences from nearby pipes and building foundations were carefully studied. The results showed that soil condition and nearby structures have significant influences on the dispersion characteristics of wave propagating along buried plastic pipes.

Comparative study of the expansion dynamics of laser-driven plasma and shock wave in in-air and underwater ablation regimes

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Nguyen, Thao T. P.; Tanabe, Rie; Ito, Yoshiro

2018-03-01

We compared the expansion characteristics of the plasma plumes and shock waves generated in laser-induced shock process between the two ablation regimes: in air and under water. The observation was made from the initial moment when the laser pulse hit the target until 1.5 μs. The shock processes were driven by focusing a single laser pulse (1064 nm, FWHM = 13 ns) onto the surface of epoxy-resin blocks using a 40-mm focal length lens. The estimated laser intensity at the target plane is approximate to 9 ×109Wcm-2 . We used the fast-imaging technique to observe the expansion of the plasma plume and a custom-designed time-resolved photoelasticity imaging technique to observe the propagation of shock waves with the time resolution of nanoseconds. We found that at the same intensity of the laser beam, the plasma expansion during the laser pulse follows different mechanisms: the plasma plume that grows in air follows a radiation-wave model while a detonation-wave model can explain the expansion of the plasma plume induced in water. The ideal blast wave theory can be used to predict the decay of the shock wave in air but is not appropriate to describe the decay of the shock wave induced under water.

Frequency Domain Response at Pacific Coast Harbors to Major Tsunamis of 2005-2011

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Xing, Xiuying; Kou, Zhiqing; Huang, Ziyi; Lee, Jiin-Jen

2013-06-01

Tsunamis waves caused by submarine earthquake or landslide might contain large wave energy, which could cause significant human loss and property damage locally as well as in distant region. The response of three harbors located at the Pacific coast (i.e. Crescent City Harbor, Los Angeles/Long Beach Port, and San Diego Harbor) to six well-known tsunamis events generated (both near-field and far-field) between 2005 and 2011 are examined and simulated using a hybrid finite element numerical model in frequency domain. The model incorporated the effects of wave refraction, wave diffraction, partial wave reflection from boundaries, entrance and bottom energy dissipation. It can be applied to harbor regions with arbitrary shapes and variable water depth. The computed resonant periods or modes of oscillation for three harbors are in good agreement with the energy spectral analysis of the time series of water surface elevations recorded at tide gauge stations inside three harbors during the six tsunamis events. The computed wave induced currents based on the present model are also in qualitative agreement with some of the reported eye-witness accounts absence of reliable current data. The simulated results show that each harbor responded differently and significantly amplified certain wave period(s) of incident wave trains according to the shape, topography, characteristic dimensions and water depth of the harbor basins.

Breaking Wave Impact on a Partially Submerged Rigid Cube in Deep Water

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Ikeda, C. M.; Choquette, M.; Duncan, J. H.

2011-11-01

The impact of a plunging breaking wave on a partially submerged cube is studied experimentally. The experiments are performed in a wave tank that is 14.8 m long, 1.15 m wide and 2.2 m high with a water depth of 0.91 m. A single repeatable plunging breaker is generated from a dispersively focused wave packet (average frequency of 1.4 Hz) that is created with a programmable wave maker. The rigid (L = 30 . 5 cm) cube is centered in the width of the tank and mounted from above with one face oriented normal to the oncoming wave. The position of the center of the front face of the cube is varied from the breaker location (xb ~ 6 . 35 m) to xb + 0 . 05 m in the streamwise direction and from - 0 . 25 L to 0 . 25 L vertically relative to the mean water level. A high-speed digital camera is used to record both white-light and laser-induced fluorescence (LIF) movies of the free surface shape in front of the cube before and after the wave impact. When the wave hits the cube just as the plunging jet is formed, a high-velocity vertical jet is created and the trajectory and maximum height of the jet are strongly influenced by the vertical position of the cube. Supported by the Office of Naval Research, Contract Monitor R. D. Joslin.

Analytical and numerical solution for wave reflection from a porous wave absorber

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Magdalena, Ikha; Roque, Marian P.

2018-03-01

In this paper, wave reflection from a porous wave absorber is investigated theoretically and numerically. The equations that we used are based on shallow water type model. Modification of motion inside the absorber is by including linearized friction term in momentum equation and introducing a filtered velocity. Here, an analytical solution for wave reflection coefficient from a porous wave absorber over a flat bottom is derived. Numerically, we solve the equations using the finite volume method on a staggered grid. To validate our numerical model, comparison of the numerical reflection coefficient is made against the analytical solution. Further, we implement our numerical scheme to study the evolution of surface waves pass through a porous absorber over varied bottom topography.

Shear-wave splitting in Quaternary sediments: Neotectonic implications in the central New Madrid seismic zone

USGS Publications Warehouse

Harris, J.B.

1996-01-01

Determining the extent and location of surface/near-surface structural deformation in the New Madrid seismic zone (NMSZ) is very important for evaluating earthquake hazards. A shallow shear-wave splitting experiment, located near the crest of the Lake County uplift (LCU) in the central NMSZ, shows the presence of near-surface azimuthal anisotropy believed to be associated with neotectonic deformation. A shallow fourcomponent data set, recorded using a hammer and mass source, displayed abundant shallow reflection energy on records made with orthogonal source-receiver orientations, an indicator of shear-wave splitting. Following rotation of the data matrix by 40??, the S1 and S2 sections (principal components of the data matrix) were aligned with the natural coordinate system at orientations of N35??W and N55??E, respectively. A dynamic mis-tie of 8 ms at a two-way traveltime of 375 ms produced an average azimuthal anisotropy of ???2% between the target reflector (top of Quaternary gravel at a depth of 35 m) and the surface. Based on the shear-wave polarization data, two explanations for the azimuthal anisotropy in the study area are (1) fractures/cracks aligned in response to near-surface tensional stress produced by uplift of the LCU, and (2) faults/fractures oriented parallel to the Kentucky Bend scarp, a recently identified surface deformation feature believed to be associated with contemporary seismicity in the central NMSZ. In addition to increased seismic resolution by the use of shear-wave methods in unconsolidated, water-saturated sediments, measurement of near-surface directional polarizations, produced by shear-wave splitting, may provide valuable information for identifying neotectonic deformation and evaluating associated earthquake hazards.

Dynamic interaction of CO/H 2O mixtures with gold nanocrystals: Real-time imaging and local chemical probing

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Visart de Bocarmé, Thierry; Chau, Thoi-Dai; Kruse, Norbert

2006-09-01

The dynamic interaction of pure gold nanocrystals ("tips") with H 2O/CO gas mixtures was studied by means of video-field ion microscopy (FIM). While imaging with nano-scale resolution selected areas of the equivalent of ˜200 atomic Au sites were analysed for their chemical composition using short field pulses and injecting respective ions into a time-of-flight mass spectrometer (pulsed field desorption mass spectrometry, PFDMS). At room temperature the exposure of a clean Au sample to water gas at 10 -4 Pa, in the presence of an electric field of ˜10 V/nm, led to water adsorption and formation of bright patterns in FIM. Additional exposure to CO gas at 5 × 10 -3 Pa led to the removal of the water layer. This was associated with the occurrence of bright wave fronts which ignited simultaneously in several regions of the Au surface with no preference for a certain crystallographic surface plane. In some cases wave fronts were seen to collide resulting in more complicated patterns such as concentric rings. Surface areas free of water appeared with low brightness. The phenomena were completely reversible. PFDMS demonstrated water ions to be responsible for image formation. Surface hydroxyl was also detected mass spectrometrically and respective ion intensities decreased during the titration with CO. The results suggest that gold nanocrystals, in the absence of oxidic support materials, may be active in the reaction between water and CO at temperatures as low as 300 K and in the presence of an electric field of ˜10 V/nm.

Rogue wave variational modelling through the interaction of two solitary waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Gidel, Floriane; Bokhove, Onno

2016-04-01

The extreme and unexpected characteristics of Rogue waves have made them legendary for centuries. It is only on the 1st of January 1995 that these mariners' tales started to raise scientist's curiosity, when such a wave was recorded in the North Sea; a sudden wall of water hit the Draupner offshore platform, more than twice higher than the other waves, providing evidence of the existence of rogue or freak waves. Since then, studies have shown that these surface gravity waves of high amplitude (at least twice the height of the other sea waves [Dyste et al., 2008]) appear in non-linear dispersive water motion [Drazin and Johnson, 1989], at any depth, and have caused a lot of damage in recent years [Nikolkina and Didenkulova, 2011 ]. So far, most of the studies have tried to determine their probability of occurrence, but no conclusion has been achieved yet, which means that we are currently unenable to predict or avoid these monster waves. An accurate mathematical and numerical water-wave model would enable simulation and observation of this external forcing on boats and offshore structures and hence reduce their threat. In this work, we aim to model rogue waves through a soliton splash generated by the interaction of two solitons coming from different channels at a specific angle. Kodama indeed showed that one way to produce extreme waves is through the intersection of two solitary waves, or one solitary wave and its oblique reflection on a vertical wall [Yeh, Li and Kodama, 2010 ]. While he modelled Mach reflection from Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) theory, we aim to model rogue waves from the three-dimensional potential flow equations and/or their asymptotic equivalent described by Benney and Luke [Benney and Luke, 1964]. These theories have the advantage to allow wave propagation in several directions, which is not the case with KP equations. The initial solitary waves are generated by removing a sluice gate in each channel. The equations are derived through a variational approach, based on Luke's variational principle [Luke, 1967], and its dynamical equivalent from Miles [Miles, 1977], that describe incompressible and inviscid potential flows with free surface, through the variations of the Lagrangian. This Lagrangian, obtained from Bernouilli's equations, can be expressed in a Hamiltonian form, for which robust time integrators have been derived [Gagarina et al., 2015]. A Galerkin finite element method is then used to solve the system numerically, and we aim to compare our simulations to exact solutions of the KP-equation.

High-resolution, real-time mapping of surface soil moisture at the field scale using ground penetrating radar

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Lambot, S.; Minet, J.; Slob, E.; Vereecken, H.; Vanclooster, M.

2008-12-01

Measuring soil surface water content is essential in hydrology and agriculture as this variable controls important key processes of the hydrological cycle such as infiltration, runoff, evaporation, and energy exchanges between the earth and the atmosphere. We present a ground-penetrating radar (GPR) method for automated, high-resolution, real-time mapping of soil surface dielectric permittivity and correlated water content at the field scale. Field scale characterization and monitoring is not only necessary for field scale management applications, but also for unravelling upscaling issues in hydrology and bridging the scale gap between local measurements and remote sensing. In particular, such methods are necessary to validate and improve remote sensing data products. The radar system consists of a vector network analyzer combined with an off-ground, ultra-wideband monostatic horn antenna, thereby setting up a continuous-wave steeped-frequency GPR. Radar signal analysis is based on three-dimensional electromagnetic inverse modelling. The forward model accounts for all antenna effects, antenna-soil interactions, and wave propagation in three-dimensional multilayered media. A fast procedure was developed to evaluate the involved Green's function, resulting from a singular, complex integral. Radar data inversion is focused on the surface reflection in the time domain. The method presents considerable advantages compared to the current surface characterization methods using GPR, namely, the ground wave and common reflection methods. Theoretical analyses were performed, dealing with the effects of electric conductivity on the surface reflection when non-negligible, and on near-surface layering, which may lead to unrealistic values for the surface dielectric permittivity if not properly accounted for. Inversion strategies are proposed. In particular the combination of GPR with electromagnetic induction data appears to be promising to deal with highly conductive soils. Finally, we present laboratory and field results where the GPR measurements are compared to ground-truth gravimetric and time domain reflectometry data. An example of high resolution surface soil moisture map is presented and discussed. The proposed method appears to be an appropriate solution in any applications where soil surface water content must be known at the field scale.

Effect of Shock Waves Generated by Pulsed Electric Discharges in Water on Yeast Cells and Virus Particles

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Girdyuk, A. E.; Gorshkov, A. N.; Egorov, V. V.; Kolikov, V. A.; Snetov, V. N.; Shneerson, G. A.

2018-02-01

The aim of this study is to determine the optimal parameters of the electric pulses and shock waves generated by them for the soft destruction of the virus and yeast envelopes with no changes in the structure of antigenic surface albumin and in the cell morphology in order to use them to produce antivirus vaccines and in biotechnology. The pulse electric discharges in water have been studied for different values of amplitude, pulse duration and the rate of the rise in the current. A mathematical model has been developed to estimate the optimal parameters of pulsed electric charges and shock waves for the complete destruction of the yeast cell envelopes and virus particles at a minimum of pulses.

Propagation of acoustic-gravity waves in arctic zones with elastic ice-sheets

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Kadri, Usama; Abdolali, Ali; Kirby, James T.

2017-04-01

We present an analytical solution of the boundary value problem of propagating acoustic-gravity waves generated in the ocean by earthquakes or ice-quakes in arctic zones. At the surface, we assume elastic ice-sheets of a variable thickness, and show that the propagating acoustic-gravity modes have different mode shape than originally derived by Ref. [1] for a rigid ice-sheet settings. Computationally, we couple the ice-sheet problem with the free surface model by Ref. [2] representing shrinking ice blocks in realistic sea state, where the randomly oriented ice-sheets cause inter modal transition at the edges and multidirectional reflections. We then derive a depth-integrated equation valid for spatially slowly varying thickness of ice-sheet and water depth. Surprisingly, and unlike the free-surface setting, here it is found that the higher acoustic-gravity modes exhibit a larger contribution. These modes travel at the speed of sound in water carrying information on their source, e.g. ice-sheet motion or submarine earthquake, providing various implications for ocean monitoring and detection of quakes. In addition, we found that the propagating acoustic-gravity modes can result in orbital displacements of fluid parcels sufficiently high that may contribute to deep ocean currents and circulation, as postulated by Refs. [1, 3]. References [1] U. Kadri, 2016. Generation of Hydroacoustic Waves by an Oscillating Ice Block in Arctic Zones. Advances in Acoustics and Vibration, 2016, Article ID 8076108, 7 pages http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2016/8076108 [2] A. Abdolali, J. T. Kirby and G. Bellotti, 2015, Depth-integrated equation for hydro-acoustic waves with bottom damping, J. Fluid Mech., 766, R1 doi:10.1017/jfm.2015.37 [3] U. Kadri, 2014. Deep ocean water transportation by acoustic?gravity waves. J. Geophys. Res. Oceans, 119, doi:10.1002/ 2014JC010234

On the integrable elliptic cylindrical Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation.

PubMed

Khusnutdinova, K R; Klein, C; Matveev, V B; Smirnov, A O

2013-03-01

There exist two versions of the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) equation, related to the Cartesian and cylindrical geometries of the waves. In this paper, we derive and study a new version, related to the elliptic cylindrical geometry. The derivation is given in the context of surface waves, but the derived equation is a universal integrable model applicable to generic weakly nonlinear weakly dispersive waves. We also show that there exist nontrivial transformations between all three versions of the KP equation associated with the physical problem formulation, and use them to obtain new classes of approximate solutions for water waves.

Effect of Latent Heat Released by Freezing Droplets during Frost Wave Propagation.

PubMed

Chavan, Shreyas; Park, Deokgeun; Singla, Nitish; Sokalski, Peter; Boyina, Kalyan; Miljkovic, Nenad

2018-05-21

Frost spreads on nonwetting surfaces during condensation frosting via an interdroplet frost wave. When a supercooled condensate water droplet freezes on a hydrophobic or superhydrophobic surface, neighboring droplets still in the liquid phase begin to evaporate. Two possible mechanisms govern the evaporation of neighboring water droplets: (1) The difference in saturation pressure of the water vapor surrounding the liquid and frozen droplets induces a vapor pressure gradient, and (2) the latent heat released by freezing droplets locally heats the substrate, leading to evaporation of nearby droplets. The relative significance of these two mechanisms is still not understood. Here, we study the significance of the latent heat released into the substrate by freezing droplets, and its effect on adjacent droplet evaporation, by studying the dynamics of individual water droplet freezing on aluminum-, copper-, and glass-based hydrophobic and superhydrophobic surfaces. The latent heat flux released into the substrate was calculated from the measured droplet sizes and the respective freezing times ( t f ), defined as the time from initial ice nucleation within the droplet to complete droplet freezing. To probe the effect of latent heat release, we performed three-dimensional transient finite element simulations showing that the transfer of latent heat to neighboring droplets is insignificant and accounts for a negligible fraction of evaporation during microscale frost wave propagation. Furthermore, we studied the effect of substrate thermal conductivity on the transfer of latent heat transfer to neighboring droplets by investigating the velocity of ice bridge formation. The velocity of the ice bridge was independent of the substrate thermal conductivity, indicating that adjacent droplet evaporation during condensation frosting is governed solely by vapor pressure gradients. This study not only provides key insights into the individual droplet freezing process but also elucidates the negligible role of latent heat released into the substrate during frost wave propagation.

Ice shelf structure from dispersion curve analysis of passive-source seismic data, Ross Ice Shelf, Antarctica

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Diez, A.; Bromirski, P. D.; Gerstoft, P.; Stephen, R. A.; Anthony, R. E.; Aster, R. C.; Cai, C.; Nyblade, A.; Wiens, D.

2015-12-01

An L-shaped array of three-component short period seismic stations was deployed at the Ross Ice Shelf, Antarctica approximately 100 km south of the ice edge, near 180° longitude, from November 18 through 28, 2014. Polarization analysis of data from these stations clearly shows propagating waves from below the ice shelf for frequencies below 2 Hz. Energy above 2 Hz is dominated by Rayleigh and Love waves propagating from the north. Frequency-slowness plots were calculated using beamforming. Resulting Love and Rayleigh wave dispersion curves were inverted for the shear wave velocity profile, from which we derive a density profile. The derived shear wave velocity profiles differ within the firn for the inversions using Rayleigh and Love wave dispersion curves. This difference is attributed to an effective anisotropy due to fine layering. The layered structure of firn, ice, water, and ocean floor results in a characteristic dispersion curve pattern below 7 Hz. We investigate the observed structures in more detail by forward modeling of Rayleigh wave dispersion curves for representative firn, ice, water, sediment structures. Rayleigh waves are observed when wavelengths are long enough to span the distance from the ice shelf surface to the seafloor. Our results show that the analysis of high frequency Rayleigh waves on an ice shelf has the ability to resolve ice shelf thickness, water column thickness, and the physical properties of the underlying ocean floor using passive-source seismic data.

A Comparison between Oceanographic Parameters and Seafloor Pressures; Measured, Theoretical and Modelled, and Terrestrial Seismic Data

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Donne, Sarah; Bean, Christopher; Craig, David; Dias, Frederic; Christodoulides, Paul

2016-04-01

Microseisms are continuous seismic vibrations which propagate mainly as surface Rayleigh and Love waves. They are generated by the Earth's oceans and there are two main types; primary and secondary microseisms. Primary microseisms are generated through the interaction of travelling surface gravity ocean waves with the seafloor in shallow waters relative to the wavelength of the ocean wave. Secondary microseisms, on the other hand are generated when two opposing wave trains interact and a non-linear second order effect produces a pressure fluctuation which is depth independent. The conditions necessary to produce secondary microseisms are presented in Longuet-Higgins (1950) through the interaction of two travelling waves with the same wave period and which interact at an angle of 180 degrees. Equivalent surface pressure density (p2l) is modelled using the numerical ocean wave model Wavewatch III and this term is considered as the microseism source term. This work presents an investigation of the theoretical second order pressures generated through the interaction of travelling waves with varying wave amplitude, period and angle of incidence. Predicted seafloor pressures calculated off the Southwest coast of Ireland are compared with terrestrially recorded microseism records, measured seafloor pressures and oceanographic parameters. The work presented in this study suggests that a broad set of sea states can generate second order seafloor pressures that are consistent with seafloor pressure measurements. Local seismic arrays throughout Ireland allow us to investigate the temporal covariance of these seafloor pressures with microseism source locations.

Laboratory meter-scale seismic monitoring of varying water levels in granular media

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Pasquet, S.; Bodet, L.; Bergamo, P.; Guérin, R.; Martin, R.; Mourgues, R.; Tournat, V.

2016-12-01

Laboratory physical modelling and non-contacting ultrasonic techniques are frequently proposed to tackle theoretical and methodological issues related to geophysical prospecting. Following recent developments illustrating the ability of seismic methods to image spatial and/or temporal variations of water content in the vadose zone, we developed laboratory experiments aimed at testing the sensitivity of seismic measurements (i.e., pressure-wave travel times and surface-wave phase velocities) to water saturation variations. Ultrasonic techniques were used to simulate typical seismic acquisitions on small-scale controlled granular media presenting different water levels. Travel times and phase velocity measurements obtained at the dry state were validated with both theoretical models and numerical simulations and serve as reference datasets. The increasing water level clearly affects the recorded wave field in both its phase and amplitude, but the collected data cannot yet be inverted in the absence of a comprehensive theoretical model for such partially saturated and unconsolidated granular media. The differences in travel time and phase velocity observed between the dry and wet models show patterns that are interestingly coincident with the observed water level and depth of the capillary fringe, thus offering attractive perspectives for studying soil water content variations in the field.

Regional Climate Variability Under Model Simulations of Solar Geoengineering

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Dagon, Katherine; Schrag, Daniel P.

2017-11-01

Solar geoengineering has been shown in modeling studies to successfully mitigate global mean surface temperature changes from greenhouse warming. Changes in land surface hydrology are complicated by the direct effect of carbon dioxide (CO2) on vegetation, which alters the flux of water from the land surface to the atmosphere. Here we investigate changes in boreal summer climate variability under solar geoengineering using multiple ensembles of model simulations. We find that spatially uniform solar geoengineering creates a strong meridional gradient in the Northern Hemisphere temperature response, with less consistent patterns in precipitation, evapotranspiration, and soil moisture. Using regional summertime temperature and precipitation results across 31-member ensembles, we show a decrease in the frequency of heat waves and consecutive dry days under solar geoengineering relative to a high-CO2 world. However in some regions solar geoengineering of this amount does not completely reduce summer heat extremes relative to present day climate. In western Russia and Siberia, an increase in heat waves is connected to a decrease in surface soil moisture that favors persistent high temperatures. Heat waves decrease in the central United States and the Sahel, while the hydrologic response increases terrestrial water storage. Regional changes in soil moisture exhibit trends over time as the model adjusts to solar geoengineering, particularly in Siberia and the Sahel, leading to robust shifts in climate variance. These results suggest potential benefits and complications of large-scale uniform climate intervention schemes.

On the unsteady gravity-capillary wave pattern found behind a slow moving localized pressure distribution

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Masnadi, N.; Duncan, J. H.

2013-11-01

The non-linear response of a water surface to a slow-moving pressure distribution is studied experimentally using a vertically oriented carriage-mounted air-jet tube that is set to translate over the water surface in a long tank. The free surface deformation pattern is measured with a full-field refraction-based method that utilizes a vertically oriented digital movie camera (under the tank) and a random dot pattern (above the water surface). At towing speeds just below the minimum phase speed of gravity-capillary waves (cmin ~ 23 cm/s), an unsteady V-shaped pattern is formed behind the pressure source. Localized depressions are generated near the source and propagate in pairs along the two arms of the V-shaped pattern. These depressions are eventually shed from the tips of the pattern at a frequency of about 1 Hz. It is found that the shape and phase speeds of the first depressions shed in each run are quantitatively similar to the freely-propagating gravity-capillary lumps from potential flow calculations. In the experiments, the amplitudes of the depressions decrease by approximately 60 percent while travelling 12 wavelengths. The depressions shed later in each run behave in a less consistent manner, probably due to their interaction with neighboring depressions.

The Impact of a Deepwater Wave on a Wall with Finite Vertical Extent

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Wang, An; Duncan, James H.

2016-11-01

The impact of a dispersively focused 2D plunging breaker (average wave frequency 1.15 Hz) on a 2D wall that is 45 cm high and 30 cm thick is studied experimentally. The temporal evolution of the water surface profile upstream of the wall is measured with a cinematic LIF technique using frame rates up to 4,500 Hz. Impact pressures on the wall are measured simultaneously at sample rates up to 900 kHz. The wall is located horizontally 6.41 m from the wave maker in all cases and the submergence of the bottom surface of the wall is varied. It is found that the impact behavior varies dramatically with the wall submergence. When the bottom is submerged by 13.3 cm, a flip-through impact occurs. In this case, the impact evolves without wave breaking and a vertical jet is formed. When the wall is submerged by less than 4.5 cm, small-amplitude components in the wave packet interact with the bottom of the wall before the main crest arrives. Ripples reflected during this interaction modify the behavior of the incoming breaker significantly. When the bottom of the wall is located sufficiently high above the mean water level, the first interaction occurs when the undisturbed wave crest collides with the wall. The highest pressures are observed in this case. The support of the Office of Naval Research is gratefully acknowledged.

Particle Tracking Model (PTM) with Coastal Modeling System (CMS)

DTIC Science & Technology

2015-11-04

Coastal Inlets Research Program Particle Tracking Model (PTM) with Coastal Modeling System ( CMS ) The Particle Tracking Model (PTM) is a Lagrangian...currents and waves. The Coastal Inlets Research Program (CIRP) supports the PTM with the Coastal Modeling System ( CMS ), which provides coupled wave...and current forcing for PTM simulations. CMS -PTM is implemented in the Surface-water Modeling System, a GUI environment for input development

Ultrasonic surface measurements at the Porta Nigra, Trier, and the Neptungrotte, Park Sanssouci Potsdam

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Meier, Thomas; Auras, Michael; Fehr, Moritz; Köhn, Daniel

2015-04-01

Ultrasonic measurements along profiles at the surface of an object are well suited to characterize non-destructively weathering of natural stone near the surface. Ultrasonic waveforms of surface measurements in the frequency range between 10 kHz and 300 kHz are often dominated by the Rayleigh wave - a surface wave that is mainly sensitive to the velocity and attenuation of S-waves in the upper 0.3 cm to 3 cm. The frequency dependence of the Rayleigh wave velocity may be used to analyze variations of the material properties with depth. Applications of ultrasonic surface measurements are shown for two buildings: the Roman Porta Nigra in Trier from the 3rd century AD and the Neptungrotte at Park Sanssouci in Potsdam designed by von Knobelsdorff in the 18th century. Both buildings belong to the world cultural heritage and restorations are planned for the near future. It is interesting to compare measurements at these two buildings because they show the applicability of ultrasonic surface measurements to different natural stones. The Porta Nigra is made of local sandstones whereas the facades of the Neptungrotte are made of Carrara and Kauffunger marble. 71 and 46 surface measurements have been carried out, respectively. At both buildings, Rayleigh-wave group velocities show huge variations. At the Porta Nigra they vary between ca. 0.4 km/s and 1.8 km/s and at the Neptungrotte between ca. 0.7 km/s and 3.0 km/s pointing to alterations in the Rayleigh- and S-wave velocities of more than 50 % due to weathering. Note that velocities of elastic waves may increase e.g. because of the formation of black crusts like at the Porta Nigra or they may be strongly reduced due to weathering. The accuracy of the ultrasonic surface measurements, its reproducibility, and the influence of varying water saturation are discussed. Options for the analysis of ultrasonic waveforms are presented ranging from dispersion analysis to full waveform inversions for one-dimensional and two-dimensional models of the outermost layers of the object under investigation. Furthermore, results of non-destructive ultrasonic surface measurements are compared to results of destructive investigation techniques.

A residual-based shock capturing scheme for the continuous/discontinuous spectral element solution of the 2D shallow water equations

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Marras, Simone; Kopera, Michal A.; Constantinescu, Emil M.; Suckale, Jenny; Giraldo, Francis X.

2018-04-01

The high-order numerical solution of the non-linear shallow water equations is susceptible to Gibbs oscillations in the proximity of strong gradients. In this paper, we tackle this issue by presenting a shock capturing model based on the numerical residual of the solution. Via numerical tests, we demonstrate that the model removes the spurious oscillations in the proximity of strong wave fronts while preserving their strength. Furthermore, for coarse grids, it prevents energy from building up at small wave-numbers. When applied to the continuity equation to stabilize the water surface, the addition of the shock capturing scheme does not affect mass conservation. We found that our model improves the continuous and discontinuous Galerkin solutions alike in the proximity of sharp fronts propagating on wet surfaces. In the presence of wet/dry interfaces, however, the model needs to be enhanced with the addition of an inundation scheme which, however, we do not address in this paper.

Space Radar Image of Oil Slicks

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

1994-01-01

This is a radar image of an offshore drilling field about 150 km (93 miles) west of Bombay, India, in the Arabian Sea. The dark streaks are extensive oil slicks surrounding many of the drilling platforms, which appear as bright white spots. Radar images are useful for detecting and measuring the extent of oil seepages on the ocean surface, from both natural and industrial sources. The long, thin streaks extending from many of the platforms are spreading across the sea surface, pushed by local winds. The larger dark patches are dispersed slicks that were likely discharged earlier than the longer streaks, when the winds were probably from a different direction. The dispersed oil will eventually spread out over the more dense water and become a layer which is a single molecule thick. Many forms of oil, both from biological and from petroleum sources, smooth out the ocean surface, causing the area to appear dark in radar images. There are also two forms of ocean waves shown in this image. The dominant group of large waves (upper center) are called internal waves. These waves are formed below the ocean surface at the boundary between layers of warm and cold water and they appear in the radar image because of the way they change the ocean surface. Ocean swells, which are waves generated by winds, are shown throughout the image but are most distinct in the blue area adjacent to the internal waves. Identification of waves provide oceanographers with information about the smaller scale dynamic processes of the ocean. This image was acquired by the Spaceborne Imaging Radar-C/X-Band Synthetic Aperture Radar (SIR-C/X-SAR) aboard the space shuttle Endeavour on October 9, 1994. The colors are assigned to different frequencies and polarizations of the radar as follows: Red is L-band vertically transmitted, vertically received; green is the average of L-band vertically transmitted, vertically received and C-band vertically transmitted, vertically received; blue is C-band vertically transmitted, vertically received. The image is located at 19.25 degrees north latitude and 71.34 degrees east longitude and covers an area 20 km by 45 km (12.4 miles by 27.9 miles). SIR-C/X-SAR, a joint mission of the German, Italian and United States space agencies, is part of NASA's Mission to Planet Earth.

Digital core based transmitted ultrasonic wave simulation and velocity accuracy analysis

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zhu, Wei; Shan, Rui

2016-06-01

Transmitted ultrasonic wave simulation (TUWS) in a digital core is one of the important elements of digital rock physics and is used to study wave propagation in porous cores and calculate equivalent velocity. When simulating wave propagates in a 3D digital core, two additional layers are attached to its two surfaces vertical to the wave-direction and one planar wave source and two receiver-arrays are properly installed. After source excitation, the two receivers then record incident and transmitted waves of the digital rock. Wave propagating velocity, which is the velocity of the digital core, is computed by the picked peak-time difference between the two recorded waves. To evaluate the accuracy of TUWS, a digital core is fully saturated with gas, oil, and water to calculate the corresponding velocities. The velocities increase with decreasing wave frequencies in the simulation frequency band, and this is considered to be the result of scattering. When the pore fluids are varied from gas to oil and finally to water, the velocity-variation characteristics between the different frequencies are similar, thereby approximately following the variation law of velocities obtained from linear elastic statics simulation (LESS), although their absolute values are different. However, LESS has been widely used. The results of this paper show that the transmission ultrasonic simulation has high relative precision.

Experimental sea slicks: Their practical applications and utilization for basic studies of air-sea interactions

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Hühnerfuss, Heinrich; Garrett, W. D.

1981-01-01

Practical applications of organic surface films added to the sea surface date back to ancient times. Aristotle, Plutarch, and Pliny the Elder describe the seaman's practice of calming waves in a storm by pouring oil onto the sea [Scott, 1977]. It was also noted that divers released oil beneath the water surface so that it could rise and spread over the sea surface, thereby suppressing the irritating flicker associated with the passage of light through a rippled surface. From a scientific point of view, Benjamin Franklin was the first to perform experiments with oils on natural waters. His experiment with a `teaspoonful of oil' on Clapham pond in 1773 inspired many investigators to consider sea surface phenomena or to conduct experiments with oil films. This early research has been reviewed by Giles [1969], Giles and Forrester [1970], and Scott [1977]. Franklin's studies with experimental slicks can be regarded as the beginning of surface film chemistry. His speculations on the wave damping influence of oil induced him to perform the first qualitative experiment with artificial sea slicks at Portsmouth (England) in October of 1773. Although the sea was calmed and very few white caps appeared in the oil-covered area, the swell continued through the oiled area to Franklin's great disappointment.

Green-Naghdi dynamics of surface wind waves in finite depth

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Manna, M. A.; Latifi, A.; Kraenkel, R. A.

2018-04-01

The Miles’ quasi laminar theory of waves generation by wind in finite depth h is presented. In this context, the fully nonlinear Green-Naghdi model equation is derived for the first time. This model equation is obtained by the non perturbative Green-Naghdi approach, coupling a nonlinear evolution of water waves with the atmospheric dynamics which works as in the classic Miles’ theory. A depth-dependent and wind-dependent wave growth γ is drawn from the dispersion relation of the coupled Green-Naghdi model with the atmospheric dynamics. Different values of the dimensionless water depth parameter δ = gh/U 1, with g the gravity and U 1 a characteristic wind velocity, produce two families of growth rate γ in function of the dimensionless theoretical wave-age c 0: a family of γ with h constant and U 1 variable and another family of γ with U 1 constant and h variable. The allowed minimum and maximum values of γ in this model are exhibited.

Signal Processing for Determining Water Height in Steam Pipes with Dynamic Surface Conditions

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

Lih, Shyh-Shiuh; Lee, Hyeong Jae; Bar-Cohen, Yoseph

2015-01-01

An enhanced signal processing method based on the filtered Hilbert envelope of the auto-correlation function of the wave signal has been developed to monitor the height of condensed water through the steel wall of steam pipes with dynamic surface conditions. The developed signal processing algorithm can also be used to estimate the thickness of the pipe to determine the cut-off frequency for the low pass filter frequency of the Hilbert Envelope. Testing and analysis results by using the developed technique for dynamic surface conditions are presented. A multiple array of transducers setup and methodology are proposed for both the pulse-echo and pitch-catch signals to monitor the fluctuation of the water height due to disturbance, water flow, and other anomaly conditions.

A Robust Definition for the Turbulent Langmuir Number

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Christensen, K. H.; Breivik, O.; Sutherland, G.; Belcher, S. E.; Gargett, A.

2016-02-01

The turbulent Langmuir number combines the water side friction velocity and the surface value of the Stokes drift, and is central to parameterizations of mixing by Langmuir turbulence. Making a direct comparison between such parameterizations and observations is difficult since the surface Stokes drift is sensitive to both the spectral tail and the directional spread of the waves. We propose a new definition for the turbulent Langmuir number based on low order moments of the one-dimensional frequency spectrum, hence eliminating most of the uncertainties associated with the diagnostic spectral tail. Comparison is made between the old and the new definitions using both observed and modeled wave spectra. The new definition has a higher variation around the mean and is better at resolving typical oceanic conditions. In addition, it is backwards compatible with the old definition for monochromatic waves, which means that scalings based on large eddy simulations with monochromatic wave forcing are still valid.

Seismic Anisotropy from Surface Refraction Measurements

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Vilhelm, J.; Hrdá, J.; Klíma, K.; Lokajícek, T.; Pros, Z.

2003-04-01

The contribution deals with the methods of determining P and S wave velocities in the shallow refraction seismics. The comparison of a P-wave anisotropy from samples and field surface measurement is performed. The laboratory measurement of the P-wave velocity is realized as omni directional ultrasound measurement on oriented spherical samples (diameter 5 cm) under a hydrostatic pressure up to 400 MPa. The field measurement is based on the processing of at least one pair of reversed time-distance curves of refracted waves. Different velocity calculation techniques are involved including tomographic approach from the surface. It is shown that field seismic measurement can reflect internal rock fabric (lineation, mineral anisotropy) as well as effects connected with the fracturing and weathering. The elastic constants derived from laboratory measurements exhibit transversal isotropy. For the estimation of anisotropy influence we perform ray-tracing by the software package ANRAY (Consortium Seismic Waves in Complex 3-D Structures). The use of P and S wave anisotropy measurement to determine hard rock hydro-geological collector (water resource) is presented. In a relatively homogeneous lutaceous sedimentary medium we identified a transversally isotropic layer which exhibits increased value of permeability (transmisivity). The seismic measurement is realized by three component geophones with both vertical and shear seismic sources. VLF and resistivity profiling accompany the filed survey.

River Plumes in Sunglint, Sarawak, Borneo

NASA Technical Reports Server (NTRS)

1991-01-01

The sunglint pattern along the coast of Sarawak (3.0N, 111.5E) delineates the boundry of fresh water river plumes as they flow into the South China Sea. The fresh water lens (boundry between fresh and sea water) overides the saline and more dense sea water and oils, both natural and man made, collect along the convergence zones and dampen wave action. As a result, the smoother sea surface appears bright in the sunglint pattern.

Characteristics of pulse corona discharge over water surface

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Fujii, Tomio; Arao, Yasushi; Rea, Massimo

2008-12-01

Production of ozone and OH radical is required to advance the plasma chemical reactions in the NOx removal processes for combustion gas treatment. The corona discharge to the water surface is expected to induce the good conditions for the proceeding of the NO oxidation and the NO2 dissolution removal into water. In order to get the fundamental data of the corona discharge over the water surface, the positive and negative V-I characteristics and the ozone production were measured with the multi needle and the saw-edge type of the discharge electrodes. The pulse corona characteristics were also measured with some different waveforms of the applied pulse voltage. The experiments were carried out under the atmospheric pressure and room temperature. Both the DC and the pulse corona to the water surface showed a stable and almost the same V-I characteristics as to plate electrodes though the surface of water was waved by corona wind. The positive streamer corona showed more ozone production than the negative one both in the DC and in the pulse corona.

On the relationships of gas transfer velocity with turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate and wind waves

NASA Astrophysics Data System (ADS)

Zhao, D.

2012-12-01

The exchange of carbon dioxide across the air-sea interface is an important component of the atmospheric CO2 budget. Understanding how future changes in climate will affect oceanic uptake and releaser CO2 requires accurate estimation of air-sea CO2 flux. This flux is typically expressed as the product of gas transfer velocity, CO2 partial pressure difference in seawater and air, and the CO2 solubility. As the key parameter, gas transfer velocity has long been known to be controlled by the near-surface turbulence in water, which is affected by many factors, such as wind forcing, ocean waves, water-side convection and rainfall. Although the wind forcing is believed as the major factor dominating the near-surface turbulence, many studies have shown that the wind waves and their breaking would greatly enhance turbulence compared with the classical solid wall theory. Gas transfer velocity has been parameterized in terms of wind speed, turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate, and wave parameters on the basis of observational data or theoretical analysis. However, great discrepancies, as large as one order, exist among these formulas. In this study, we will systematically analyze the differences of gas transfer velocity proposed so far, and try to find the reason that leads to their uncertainties. Finally, a new formula for gas transfer velocity will be given in terms of wind speed and wind wave parameter.